12.08.2016 2 comments

Harsh winters, old walls, ever-rising utility bills: these are all the reasons that make many people engage in energy conservation. A wise decision is to insulate the walls of your home. If there are minimum skills construction works, you can save a lot. It will not be difficult to properly insulate the wall outside with mineral wool with your own hands if you study this topic, follow the tips and instructions.

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Benefits of outdoor insulation

Insulate housing from the inside only in the most extreme cases. The justification may be the inability to insulate the walls due to the height, the prohibition of the authorities to change appearance structures. Wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool often spoils the appearance apartment building. A separately insulated apartment stands out noticeably and violates the architecture of the city. But the main reason why the process is arranged outside is heat engineering and physics. There is a term - "dew point". If the insulation is located from the street, the dew point moves away from the inner walls. The house is warm and cozy, the walls remain dry.

Placement of the dew point, depending on the method of wall insulation.

Placing insulation inside will cause the walls to become damp. You will need to invest a lot of effort and money in vapor barrier. More important reasons:

• The usable area inside the apartment is not reduced. There is not a single case when a person wants less free space.
• The outer wall of the house is perfectly protected from all the negative factors of nature.
• Good ventilation indoors.
• Improves the appearance of the building. You can hide the gloomy gray walls, make a unique design and update the facade. This is very beneficial if you decide to sell your home.

Material

There are many options for wall insulation. Modern technologies have filled this segment of the market. A commonly used insulation is mineral wool. It is also called basalt, because it is made from natural raw materials - basalt. An additional component is silica. During the production process, it is treated with water-repellent compounds. Everything is thought out so that vapor permeability does not get worse from this. The building material is delivered to the client in the form of mats, slabs. A less convenient form of delivery is in rolls. The parameters of the final product may be different. The material itself has a fibrous structure. The fibers can be oriented in all sorts of ways. With the arrangement "parallel" we have ordinary plates. If the fibers are oriented perpendicularly, these are lamella plates.

Most often, the walls of buildings are insulated with cotton wool with a density of 75 to 145 kg / m3. The low density board can be fixed directly to the wall. Low density allows you to fill all the bumps in the wall (brick, concrete). Plates with a density of 100 kg / m3 or more are usually fixed above the first layer. They allow you to get a more even surface, finishing work is easier to do. For calculation required amount it is necessary to proceed from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. From the amount received, it is necessary to subtract the dimensions of windows and doors. A stock of 5 to 10% is quite justified: you will spoil something, and the rest will be useful in the household.

Advantages of mineral wool

The material has significant advantages:

• Full, high-quality filling of all voids. This cannot be achieved with foam.
• There is no need to use a vapor barrier.
• The insulation technology is not particularly difficult.
• Fire resistance. The material does not burn and does not support combustion. It can withstand almost 6 thousand degrees of heat.
• Long service life if all installation requirements are met.
• Minor weight. Mineral wool is easy to use, does not exert a large load on the walls and foundation.
• Excellent thermal insulation.

The minimum total thickness of the insulation should be from ten centimeters! The best option - the insulation is attached to the load-bearing wall, and then they also perform masonry from facing bricks. The insulation layer is in the middle, it is perfectly protected and “works” more productively. Mineral wool can be used to insulate a wooden house or brick house. Sometimes mineral wool is trimmed with buildings from a gas silicate block. This action is justified if you live in the northern regions. But significant thickness is not required.

Materials and tools

Warming the house outside with mineral wool cannot be organized without tools and devices:

• Scaffolding. They can be rented. Using the stairs is dangerous and uncomfortable.
• Perforator.
• Grater for plaster.
• Whisk for mixing the solution.
• Wood saw.
• Extension.
• Putty knife.
• Solution container.
• Hammer.
• water level. Desired length: from 5 to 10 meters. Ideally, use a laser device.
• Building level.

Consumables:

• Corners for reinforcing corners.
• Glue for mineral wool.
• Primer.
• Reinforcing fabric mesh.
• Paint, decorative plaster.
• Fasteners for mineral wool, dowels.
• Sand, cement.
• Cornices.

Mounting technology

Wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool, carried out at an air temperature ranging from +5 to +25 ° С. If antifreeze additives are used, then it is allowed to carry out work on the installation of insulation at temperatures up to minus 10 ° C.

The whole technology of wall insulation can be divided into the following stages:

• Preparation of the base of the facade;
• installation of a galvanized cornice and crutches of window sills;
• wall primer;
• gluing mineral wool boards;
• installation of dowels;
• gluing protective pads and metal corners to protect corners and slopes;
• applying a reinforcing layer;
• installation of window sills and other drainage elements;
• priming and arrangement of a decorative and protective layer;

Before starting the main work, it is necessary to clearly understand the scheme of the future design. The ideal pie looks like this:

1. decorative layer.
2. reinforcing layer.
3. Mineral insulation.
4. Glue layer.
5. The wall of the structure (underlying).
6. anchor devices.

Wall preparation

The walls must be strictly perpendicular to the horizon. Permissible deviation - 15 millimeters per floor. If there are cracks, then they should be repaired. A wall that is too “killed” can first be primed and plastered with reinforcement, and only then proceed with the installation of the main “pie” of insulation.

Note! If the walls were leveled with plaster compositions, then you should wait at least 7 days to start further work.

Installation steps

Initially, a galvanized cornice is fastened with dowels. It is located at the bottom of the wall. This is a very important step that will allow all layers of material to lie flat. It can also be called the installation of basement strips. And it is also a sure protection against mice and other rodents.

In order to install the plinth level evenly, around the entire perimeter of the house, you should use a laser level or hydrolevel. The second option is in no way inferior to the first in terms of accuracy, its only minus is that you will need a partner for marking, plus it is more economical.

After installing the plinth, we install the crutches of the window sills. Then we prime our prepared base, using a spray gun or a roller with a brush.

Note! To start gluing the heat-insulating boards, you need to wait for the primer to dry completely.

The main stage of work is gluing insulation boards. To do this, a layer of glue is applied to the back of the insulating substance, in one of two ways, by the serrated base method (solid) or by the side-point (beacon) method.

The scalloped base method is acceptable when the base of the house is level. The glue is applied in a continuous layer over the mineral wool slab and leveled with a notched trowel.

The side-point method is used when the wall surface has acceptable irregularities. The glue is applied in a continuous layer along the perimeter of the mineral wool slab, 100 mm wide, in the center we make 8-10 beacons with a diameter of 100 mm.

The thickness of the applied adhesive, in either method, should be about 3 mm.

Special mixtures are used as glue. In the direct process of gluing, a slight pressure by hand should be applied. Next, we align using the rule and the level. The gluing of the boards should be done with a bandage of at least 100 mm. With a slight mismatch of the joints of adjacent plates, their irregularities should be leveled with grinding floats. Ingress of glue into the seams between the plates is not allowed; in case of not tight joining of the plates, they can be adjusted by cutting a little at the required angle.

Note! From the moment of gluing the insulation boards to the stage of installing the anchors, at least 2 days must pass.

The next step is the installation of anchor devices. To do this, using an electric perforator, we drill holes of the required length. We insert the dowel bushings into the holes, then hammer the metal cores into them with a hammer. The consumption of dowels for fixing mineral wool is 5 pieces per square meter. Insulation plates are held by umbrella-shaped dowels, they are also called mushrooms. A wide hat is great for attaching mineral wool.

This is followed by gluing protective overlays made of fiberglass and metal corners. These corners will protect slopes and corners. We fasten them to the glue, applying it along the entire inner side of the corners, press firmly to the corners, and level them.

Then follows the device of the reinforced layer. To do this, you will need glue and reinforcing material, a fiberglass mesh with cell sizes of 5 by 5 mm. Bonding should be carried out on a non-dusty surface, using tools made of inert materials (stainless steel, plastic). Glue is applied to the wall small areas, and the mesh is gradually pressed into it, it is laid with the inside of the roll against the wall, from top to bottom. The mesh overlap must be at least 100 mm in all directions. At the corners, the mesh is wrapped onto the adjacent wall by 100 mm (excluding the thickness of the insulation). For doors and window slopes the mesh is wrapped to its full width.

Note! After the installation of the reinforced layer, wait at least 5 hours before applying the leveling layer.

After the device of the reinforced layer and the leveling layer, window sills are arranged, and various drainage elements are often constructed.

Before the installation of a decorative protective layer, at least 2 days must pass after applying the leveling layer. If necessary, carry out another priming of the surface, waiting for the complete drying of the primer. The execution of the decorative and protective layer is done according to the taste and requests of the owner.

The subtleties of warming a house under construction

There are several rules that help to achieve the maximum effect from this work when erecting a new building. Here are a few tips to help you properly insulate your home:

• Insulation plates are installed throughout the facade of the house.
• Fastenings in the form of an anchor are drilled into the wall. They are necessary for reliable retention of the material.
• The plate is strung on an anchor. Special fasteners are closed on the plate with clamps.
• Above the insulation layer, a brick wall is constructed, intended for facing purposes.
• For grouting, a solution of sand with cement is used or beautiful plaster is used.

Additionally

To insulate the slope, you can use mineral wool on both sides. It is important to remember the principle of mineral wool - the thinner it is, the less space it takes up. But its heat retention properties are reduced. When doing this work with your own hands, a simple assistant will not interfere: this will speed up the process. Even on your own, without special skills, you can lay up to 25 squares of insulation per day. Remember safety precautions. The main criteria in the work - attention and caution. The progress of work may be slightly affected by the weather. Postpone work if there is strong wind and rain. Before work, you need to inspect the area around the house: there should be no dangerous objects sticking out of the ground.

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It's no secret that by insulating your house or apartment, you can significantly save your money that would have been spent on space heating. To date, there are many ways of warming and a variety of heat-insulating materials with which you can do this. One of them is mineral wool. It is an excellent material consisting of glass melt, rocks and blast-furnace slag. The binder is resin. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure with a different direction of the fibers, depending on the purpose of the material. So, if you want to keep your home warm, you need to insulate it. Thanks to mineral wool, you can avoid heat loss and your heating costs will be significantly reduced. This article will look at how the house is insulated with mineral wool with your own hands, and if you follow the installation rules and tips, then even without experience, you will be able to cope with this task.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Very often, builders prefer to insulate houses with mineral wool. Why? Because of its many positive characteristics.

Minvata is of several types:

1. Basalt.
2. From fiberglass.
3. Stone.

The material is produced in the form of large mats or in the form of plates (plates are in greater demand). Their density is 80 kg/m 3 . The standard dimensions of mineral wool are 50x1000mm and 60x1200mm, but the thickness can be 50mm, 100mm or even 150mm.

The main advantages of the material:

• fire resistance, unlike polystyrene, cotton wool does not burn and does not melt;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• soundproofing properties, thanks to which you will not hear noise from outside;
• the structure of the material allows it to "breathe", due to which the air passes in both directions, so there will be no dampness in the room;
• ease of installation, as the material is malleable and soft, it is easy to work with;
• the ability to align the walls;
• Insects, rodents and microorganisms do not start in mineral wool;
• during operation, its initial properties do not change;
• practically does not undergo deformation;
• does not cause corrosion metal objects who may be in contact with her.

Among the disadvantages of mineral wool, one can name its price, which is much higher than that of the same foam. It is impossible to call an environmentally friendly material, because formaldehyde resins can be released from the layers of cotton wool. Let's look at how the walls are insulated with this material.

Surface preparation

Before insulating the house, all walls must be prepared by removing all unnecessary. You need:

• remove the lining, or a layer of plaster completely to a wooden, brick, stone or concrete base;
• eliminate recesses or protrusions that are more than 20 mm by sealing them with a solution or combing them to the desired level;
• clean the wall from dust and dirt;
• temporarily remove communication elements, such as ventilation grilles, air conditioners and drain systems;
• special attention should be paid to mold or fungus, if any, they must be disposed of;
• remove foreign objects that may stick out of the wall: corners, nails, fittings, etc.

After cleaning, the walls need to be primed. This is a mandatory event that must be spelled out in the estimate. To prime the surface, use a deep penetration primer, applying it to the walls with a roller or brush. When mold or fungus remains on the wall, treat the area with an antifungal agent, or a mold remover. Places where the plinth connects to the wall are recommended to be treated with an aquastop.

If you are insulating the house with your own hands for the first time, and siding or bark beetle coating will serve as a facing material, it is important to fasten all the plates carefully. Therefore, start work on the back walls that are not visible in order to practice mounting the slabs and plastering them. At the time when you will insulate the walls that are in sight, your technique will be much better, since you will fill your hand.

Wall marking and fixing the basement profile

In order to qualitatively perform the insulation of the facade, you need to perform some organizational and marking work. They include installation of vertical, horizontal and diagonal sags. The sags set according to the level will help to see the differences in the walls and will serve as a guide in order to evenly mount the insulation boards.

A simple nylon cord stretched between the pins will serve as a plumb line. As pins, you can use reinforcement bars inserted into the holes in the wall, which were made in advance at different points. Do not forget that these rods should be removed after installation, so you do not need to hammer them into the wall tightly, but so that you can easily remove them.

You need to start work on warming from the bottom, moving up. Therefore, in the lower part, you need to install a metal bar or basement profile, which will act as a support guide and provide support for the first row of insulation boards. It also protects them from various rodents and regulates the gap between the wall and the insulation. The width of the profile is selected depending on the width of the insulation boards.

So, along the marked line, you need to attach the bar and mark the points on the wall where the holes will be made. The recommended distance between them is 300 mm. Drill holes Ø6 mm along the marking line. Now it remains to attach the profile and fix it with driven dowels. Parts of the base profile are connected using connecting elements. Washers can be used to even out uneven surfaces.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer directly depends on the climate of the region where you live. The colder the climate, the thicker the layer of mineral wool. In regions with severe winters, the slabs can be laid in two layers. At the same time, it is imperative to mount them not flush one to one, but apart.

Insulation installation

Now, after all the preparations, you can proceed with the installation of insulation boards. They will be attached to the outside of the wall using a special adhesive designed for such purposes. For good adhesion, Ceresit CT190 can be used.

The first step is to mix the glue. To do this, you will need a bucket of 15-20 liters, water and a mixer. Mix the glue in a bucket, adding water to it based on the proportions indicated on the package. Stir until the mass becomes homogeneous, without lumps. The composition should resemble mashed potatoes. Leave the mixture for 5 minutes to completely “ripen”, and then mix again to give it the best plastic and adhesive properties.

All this solution must be used within 2 hours, since then its properties are lost.

It's time to apply the glue. Since mineral plates are very dense, their mass is also rather big. Therefore, glue must be applied over the entire surface of the plate. The point method of applying glue in this case is not suitable. After applying the adhesive to the entire surface, it can be smoothed out with a comb trowel. This method of gluing plates is good because a reinforcing layer is created on the surface, which protects the plates from deformation if moisture gets there. For reliability, continuous application can be supplemented with “bloopers”.

Immediately after applying the adhesive, the boards are applied to the wall surface. Remember that the first row of insulation will be based on the basement profile. Press the plate firmly so that it is in good contact with the wall. Irregularities can be smoothed out with blows of a long grater. Excess glue on the sides and top must be removed with a spatula. The first row must be set perfectly, since all errors will be reflected in the next rows. Therefore, carefully check the installation of insulation with a level.

Subsequent rows must be mounted with dressing, with offset vertical seams, like brickwork. Make sure that the plates are evenly adjacent to each other. If you allowed the formation of gaps of more than 5 mm between the plates, they must be filled with pieces of the plate.

During work, you should protect yourself, as mineral wool fibers can get on the skin and cause discomfort and itching. To avoid this, wear gloves and clothing that covers the skin. And if you will process the plates with a grater, then be sure to wear respirators.

In places where there are openings (window frames or doors), the slabs must be cut to the desired size and the laying should continue. Do not forget to check each row with a level so that the surface is even.

Fixing insulation boards

But planting mineral wool only on glue is not enough. If you want the heat-insulating plates to serve you for a long time and not fall off over time, they must be additionally fixed with dowels-umbrellas. The choice of such dowels for fixing is made on the basis of the following factors:

1. type of wall material.
2. Thickness of thermal insulation boards.
3. The height of the building.

Fixing with dowels is carried out after at least 1 day after the installation of the plates. To do this, holes of the required diameter and depth are drilled in the wall, into which the dowel will be hammered. For work you will need a puncher, hammer and dowels. Please note that according to the technology, if the building has 5 floors or less, then 5–7 dowels must be driven in per 1 m 2 of insulation. When the height of the building is 9 floors, then 1 m 2 needs 7-8 pieces. Their location should fall on the corners of the plate, and 1 dowel should be hammered in the middle.

The corners of the building and places near the door and window openings must be additionally reinforced with several dowels.

After the dowels are hammered, they need to be puttied with glue before the mesh reinforcement is made.

Reinforcement of corners and facade

To give the plates impact resistance and protect them from mechanical damage, all corners are reinforced with a special reinforced PVC profile with mesh. To do this, a special reinforcing mixture with a layer of 2 mm must be applied to all corners of the building. Its width should be slightly larger than the width of the profile with the mesh. Attach the corner to the corner and sink it into the mortar with a smooth spatula. Gently iron the mesh so that it sinks evenly into the solution. After all the corners are made, you need to wait 1 day and start reinforcing the entire surface of the facade slabs.

Do not perform this work in direct sunlight. To reinforce the insulation, you will need to buy a special fiberglass mesh. Apply a special reinforcement mixture to the slabs. Roll out a roll of reinforcing mesh and fasten its end to the top of the wall to be insulated. Embed the mesh into the solution, gradually moving down the wall. Cut off the excess and continue the process until you have reinforced all the walls. To avoid cracking, overlap one mesh to another by at least 100 mm. The last stage of reinforcement will be the application of a covering layer of a solution of 1–2 mm to the mesh using the wet-on-wet method. It remains to wait 2-3 days for everything to dry.

The final stage - decorative trim

After waiting for the complete drying of the reinforced layer, you can start decorating the walls. It is advisable to walk on the surface with a primer before this in order to improve adhesion, that is, adhesion to the surface. As a decorative coating, you can choose various materials:

• decorative putty;
• bark beetle;
• siding;
• lining.

These are not all the materials that can ennoble your facade. Naturally, the choice of decorative coating depends on your desire and availability of funds. That's all, now your house is fully insulated and prepared for the harsh conditions of winter. By insulating your house with mineral wool, you can not only make it warmer, but also save on heating services. But you can insulate the house not only from the outside, but also from the inside. . Let's find out how this can be done.

Insulation of the house from the inside

The first thing that should be insulated inside the house is the floor, since about 15% of heat loss falls on it. In private housing construction, laying floors on logs is the most common technology. The advantage of such a floor is the absence of wet processes, quick installation and ease of construction. If you insulate the floor with mineral wool, you will also provide yourself with additional noise protection. Consider the laying technology in order:

In order to insulate the walls from the inside, you need to install an additional frame into which the insulation will be installed and subsequently sewn up with drywall sheets. Let's look at 3 methods of how to insulate the walls inside the house.

Walls - method number 1

First you need to mount the mounting brackets for the drywall profile into the wall. Attach them vertically with a distance of up to 600mm. This distance is enough for fastening the mineral material, for assembling the frame and for fastening the profile. The staples need to be shaped to resemble the letter "P". You should get peculiar horns that stick out of the wall over the entire surface. Mineral wool must be put on these brackets.

Before cutting off the desired piece of mineral wool, measure the height of the walls. Cut off a piece with a small margin, as the material may be deformed. For example, if the wall height is 2.20 m, then the piece of mineral wool should be 70–100 mm larger. The cut strip must be put on the mounting brackets. Cotton wool is easily broken through by staples and hangs on them in a vertical position, so it does not need to be additionally fixed. Install the next strip in the same way, only overlapping with the previous layer. Then the surface of the wall will be densely covered without the presence of cold bridges.

Next, install a drywall profile and cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier that can be fixed with small self-tapping screws. Then you need to screw the drywall to the installed profile. Finally, it remains only to apply the decorative layer of your choice to the drywall.

How to implement this technology, see below:

Walls - method number 2

The second method is to assemble a ready-made frame from a profile for plasterboard wall cladding. It is necessary to fasten the profile at a distance of no more than 400 mm from each other. Since the width of the heat insulator is in the range from 500 to 1200 mm, you can lay the insulation in the spans of the frame.

In the event that the distance between the profile and the wall is small, the mineral wool can be stratified to the desired width. Your main task is to tightly lay the material, because this is what affects the quality of thermal insulation.

Once you have laid all the mineral wool on the walls, stretch the vapor barrier material over the profile. After that, the surface is ready, and you can screw drywall and apply finishing material.

Walls - method number 3

First, build the partition frame. One side should be sheathed with sheets of drywall, OSB or chipboard. The recommended distance between profiles is 580–600 mm. On the other hand, you need to lay mineral wool. If the width between the profiles is 590 mm, then the cut off piece of mineral wool should be 7–10 mm larger in order to sit close and not slide down, since no additional fastening is foreseen. When it is necessary to lay two layers of thermal insulation, the gap between the plates should be at least 150 mm. After completion of work, the partition must be sewn up with sheets of drywall, OSB or chipboard and finished.

That's all, in such simple ways you can keep warm in the house, make living in it more comfortable and enjoyable. All you need is to buy the material and follow the instructions described above. If you've had some experience with rock wool and had some difficulty along the way, share it with us in the comments. What exactly were these difficulties, and what helped to cope with them? Maybe you know something that was not mentioned in our article. Your invaluable experience will help all readers to perform the perfect insulation of their own homes!

Video

Visually, the technology of insulation with mineral wool under plaster from beginning to end is presented in the following video:

To insulate your home, you have many options at your disposal. You will be guided by different considerations when you start choosing thermal insulation for the foundation, floor, walls or roof: in each case, there will be different requirements for the material. Here we will consider two varieties of universal traditional material -. You will learn how these options differ from each other, and you can determine which of the two options is best for a particular design or area of ​​\u200b\u200byour home.

Insulation requirements.

Requirements for thermal insulation are directly indicated or follow from building codes and regulations. The main, but far from the only document is SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". With the help of SNiP, acceptable materials, the thickness of the insulation layer, the requirements for how the material absorbs water and how air and vapor permeable it is are determined. In general, insulation for any area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house should be evaluated according to the following parameters:

• Thermal conductivity: the lowest value of the parameter in nature is the inert gas krypton. Modern heaters made of innovative materials have a thermal conductivity in the range of 0.032 - 0.045 W / (m * K). In any case, the value indicated on the packaging must not exceed 0.050 W/(m*K).
• Specific gravity: the parameter is important when you insulate the roof or interior partitions. The higher the specific gravity, the greater the mass of the material and the stronger the load on the supporting structure.
• Operating temperature range: the ideal foundation insulation will withstand freezing in harsh climates, and the roof insulation is also resistant to heat.
• Resistance to external influences: chemically active compounds that are found in groundwater, mold and fungi that start in places and materials where moisture accumulates. Ideally, if the insulation seems tasteless to rodents and insects.
• Low moisture absorption: in addition to the fact that undesirable organisms multiply in dampness, the thermal conductivity of wet insulation decreases. Walls of the house, foundation, parts roof structure, overlaps can get wet after the insulation and begin to gradually collapse.
• Vapor permeability: indoors, water is constantly evaporating. In the house, they wash clothes, wash floors, take a bath or shower. Evaporation of warm air rises. If the barrier on the way out is impenetrable, the steam settles in the form of condensate on the walls and supports, and is retained inside the insulation layer. Moisture stagnates, causing damage to structures. There may be an unpleasant odor and stains of mold and fungus. The higher the vapor permeability, the more reliable the insulation. The maximum indicator - 0.7 mg / m * h * Pa - for mineral wool.
• Durability: the service life of a monolithic structure is 150 years. Ideally, the service life of the insulation should coincide with the life expectancy of the house. But so far the market does not offer such materials, so it is better to choose thermal insulation that promises to live for 50 years.
• Environmental Safety A: All thermal insulation that you want to place in residential areas should not contain toxic ingredients and remain airborne after installation. The material also must not release toxins when it decomposes - wet, heated or burned.
• Incombustibility: all materials are divided according to GOST into flammability groups: from NG - substances that cannot burn, to G4 - those materials that burn quickly, or even ignite themselves. Give preference to groups NG and G1 - this is how you take care of fire safety.
• Ease of installation: thermal insulation can be flexible and in rolls, or in slabs that are equipped with a groove-thorn system, or it can be extremely inconvenient to use.

Based on these criteria, one of the best heaters is mineral wool. It is divided into several varieties according to GOST 31913-2011 “Heat-insulating materials and products. Terms and definitions”: slag wool, glass and stone wool.

If you are building and planning to insulate a private house, from slagish it makes sense to refuse. It is made from a melt of blast-furnace slag - the remnants of smelting production. The result is a material with low thermal conductivity, which it retains only up to a temperature of 300 0°C. If the material is heated to this mark, the fibers will completely disintegrate. Such wool perfectly absorbs water and that is why it is not suitable for insulating the foundation, facades or roofing. And slag wool is not suitable for insulating internal structures, because at the slightest contact with water, slags form acids that corrode both metal and concrete of the supporting elements. In addition, the material may emit radiation.

Can be based on . Molten glass, and sometimes a mixture of cullet and sand, is blown with hot gas, resulting in fibers up to 50 mm long and up to 15 microns thick. After that, the fibers are formed into blocks of the desired size and density, and again treated with hot air in order to connect the fibers to each other using special resins.

This insulation has a number of advantages, and even twenty years ago you would have considered it, most likely, the only possible option. Fiberglass has one of the lowest thermal conductivity among the variety of thermal insulation materials: 0.040 W (m / K). The specific density of this type of mineral wool is from 11 to ~200 kg/m 3 .

Vapor permeability - 0.7 mg / m * h * Pa, and this is also one of the best indicators for heat insulating materials. That is why fiberglass is traditionally insulated walls wooden houses outside: the steam that escapes through the wooden walls does not linger in the insulation either. Rodents, insects and bacteria will not be able to find a single gram of food in this cotton wool. It is convenient to transport, cut and mount. The cost of the material is lower than the cost of basalt wool and other innovative heaters.

Wool based on glass staple fiber itself is a non-combustible substance. However, when heated to 300-400 0 ° C, toxic decomposition products of resins will begin to be released into the air, which bind the fibers. The limiting temperature at which fiberglass still retains its properties is -60 0°C. When you work with this material, just in case, it is worth protecting the skin and respiratory organs. In the Soviet era, glass wool was a very dangerous material - if you inhale the fragments, you could get an allergy attack or even asthma.

To date, technology allows us to eliminate the traditional disadvantages, while taking advantage of all the advantages of the material. Large manufacturers of mineral fiberglass wool care about product safety. Glass staple fiber is produced using the new patented Ecose technology. The substance that binds the fibers is not a phenol-formaldehyde resin, but an oil composition. The fibers themselves are not so dusty and break. The manufacturer claims a 50-year service life of the material.

It is made from natural materials - sand, soda, limestone, glass cullet is not used in the production of this cotton wool. She is insulated with ceilings of cold attics and basements, suspended ceilings, and is used for thermal insulation of the floor along the logs. The volume of material in the package is six times less than the real one, and it is very convenient to transport it. When you lay the roll, it will not require additional fixation of the layer - the cotton wool will straighten out and press tightly against the structures.

If you choose certified, technologically advanced fiberglass wool, you don't have to worry about its traditional disadvantages. This is no longer the glass wool familiar to you from the old days, which was scary to approach without a special space suit. It will only be necessary to carefully follow the operating procedure and take into account the recommendations of the manufacturers.

For indoor wall insulation, you can take fiberglass of the same density, but in slabs. For balconies and loggias, choose a denser material - 20-30 kg / m3 - for example,.

A denser basalt wool with a density of 100-150 kg / m 3 is suitable where not heavily loaded partitions, floors, ceilings are insulated. It can insulate the internal cavities of brick and block walls.

Rigid wool in slabs with a density of 150 kg / m 3 is used to insulate reinforced concrete or metal walls and ceilings. If the density of basalt wool is 200 kg / m 3, it will also serve as a refractory fire-fighting material. In general, wool in slabs is ideal for insulating vertical structures.

Where basalt-based wool is used, a fiberglass material option can be selected. With similar thermal conductivity parameters, fiberglass will have a lower density, and it will cope with its duty - to prevent heat loss - no worse.

If you are planning to insulate a foundation or plinth, or you are not sure that it will be possible to completely isolate the insulation layer from moisture and wind, consider alternatives. In any case, it is worth considering the recommendations of manufacturers and following the technology of working with the material.

Building yard

What mineral wool to choose for insulation

About 30% of the heat leaves the room through non-insulated walls. External insulation of the facade will help reduce heat loss. Mineral wool can be classified as a universal heater. It is suitable for frame installation under siding or other panels, as well as for wet insulation under plaster. It is not difficult to make your own wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool. It is only necessary to follow the basic rules and the sequence of work performed.

Preparatory work includes the obligatory cleaning of brick and concrete walls from old plaster, finishing materials and other garbage. All protruding elements, such as hooks, antennas, various fasteners, must be dismantled from the facade.

If visible cracks and potholes are detected on the facade, they begin to seal them. For this, various repair mixtures, cement mortar and putty are used. The repaired facade is coated with a primer with antifungal additives. After drying, the wall is ready for installation of insulation.

Preparation of wooden walls

The quality of the insulation of the house and the service life of the wooden walls depend on the correctly carried out preparatory work. After carefully examining the wood, you can see many cracks that need to be eliminated:

1. First of all, you should clean the surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust.
2. All places with cracks are primed and left for a while until completely absorbed.
3. After the primer dries, small gaps are covered with sealant. Large cracks in the timber are sealed with tow or felt together with a sealant.
4. Prepared wood is treated with antiseptics that prevent decay and development of insects.

After the antiseptic has dried, you can begin the process of warming the house.

Fabrication and installation of the frame

For external insulation of brick or wooden wall houses for siding will require the manufacture of crates. Panels will be fixed to its elements. A frame is made from a wooden beam or a metal profile.

If it is supposed to be insulated with mineral wool under the facade siding wooden house, then it is better to make a crate of timber with your own hands. Metallic profile more durable, but it freezes in frost. When the temperature drops, condensation forms in the profile cavity, which adversely affects the insulation and the walls of the house. Some builders clog the grooves of the profile with insulation. But why invent something, if it is easier for a wooden house to make a crate from a bar, and leave the profile for brick walls.

If possible, the cross section of the beam is selected more than the thickness of the mineral wool slabs. Sometimes, to save material, frame guides are installed at the required distance from the wall of the house using racks.

When making a frame for siding, you need to remember about the ventilation gap, which is approximately 40-50 mm. This can be achieved by using a counter-lattice installed between the finishing panels and the windproof film. For a wooden counter-lattice, a bar with a section of 50x50 mm is used. On a metal frame, it is installed from a profile.

To fasten the crate and fix the mineral wool, you will need metal hangers, the same as those used for working with drywall.

Frame types

There are several types of do-it-yourself frames for laying mineral wool for siding:

Rules for mounting a wooden frame

When making a frame from a bar for a wooden wall of a house, the following sequence of work must be observed:

Rules for mounting a metal frame

The manufacturing technology of a metal frame is a bit similar to the construction of a structure from a bar. But still there are some nuances:

Mineral wool laying

The frame, built with your own hands, is ready, you can start warming the walls of the house:

• To give the slabs stability, before laying them from the bottom of the wall, pieces of timber are nailed horizontally in the same plane with the vertical elements. Starting from the bottom of the nailed bar, mineral wool slabs are placed in the frame cells between the guides;
• Each plate is tightly installed to the wall and between the frame elements. When laying two layers of mineral wool, thick slabs are laid first, and thin ones on top of them;
• To fill the cells near the window and door openings, pieces of insulation are cut. The cut out fragment should fit snugly into the cell, but not stick out;
• If the metal frame is mounted on suspensions, the profile is mounted sideways to the wall. Then, it is possible to lay the mineral wool directly into the profile groove, creating a continuous surface of the insulation;
• When the guides are mounted on hangers or wooden racks, free space may form between them and the wall. In such cases, the first layer of insulation is laid behind the guides, and the second layer is laid out in cells.

If we talk about the required thickness of mineral wool, then it is individually selected for each building. The calculations take into account the climatic conditions of the region and the thermal conductivity of the building material from which the walls of the house are built. But usually mineral wool slabs are laid with a thickness of at least 100 mm.

Installation of a wind barrier

After laying the mineral wool, all walls are covered with a windproof membrane. The use of vapor barrier materials is undesirable, especially when it comes to a wooden wall. The technology for insulating brick or concrete walls allows the installation of a vapor barrier film, but for mineral wool, a diffuse membrane would be the best option. Its unique structure does not allow water to pass through to the insulation. But from the side of the walls and the mineral wool itself, the membrane creates a free exit of water vapor. Thus, the insulation fibers always remain dry.

The membrane is pulled onto the wall with overlapping edges of at least 150 mm. The seams are glued together with adhesive tape. The walls, together with the insulation and the membrane, are drilled and plastic dowels-umbrellas are inserted. Their wide hats press the whole "pie" against the wall.

A counter-lattice is mounted on top of the wind barrier to the frame elements. It will help create a ventilated space, and siding will be attached to it.

The insulation is laid, a windproof membrane and a counter-lattice for fastening the siding are installed

Insulation of walls with mineral wool under plaster

The technology for laying mineral wool under plaster differs from the frame method designed for siding:

Self-insulation of the walls of the house with mineral wool should not create any particular difficulties. The material is easy to process, and subject to the installation technology, the work will be done quickly and efficiently.

In contact with

mineral wool called a material with a loose structure, obtained by melting rocks, slags or glass.

This shapeless fibrous mass, sometimes granular - in lumps, yellow or green-gray.

Requirements for the characteristics of mineral wool are given in GOST 4640-2011.

Main purpose mineral wool - reduced heat transfer in the building. It is a kind of inorganic thermal insulation materials.

inorganic cotton actively applied:

• in the construction of buildings, as a heat and sound insulating material;
• in the manufacture of multilayer slabs for construction;
• when creating engineering communications for water and gas supply, sanitation, in order to reduce heat losses, increase their reliability and safety;
• for thermal insulation of industrial equipment (refrigerators, boiler room equipment);
• in the chemical industry - for filtering liquids and gases.

Feature of mineral wool - high compressibility at low loads. The result is an increase in thermal conductivity.

In order for the fibrous material to be ready to use(loading, unloading and installation), it is given one or another configuration and certain mechanical properties.

To do this, a binder (bitumen, synthetic resins, starch) is added to it and piece products are formed: plates and mats(if necessary with an additional layer - coating). Both are rectangular in shape, but the plates, according to GOST 30309-2005, are necessarily flat, and the mats are flexible and of considerable length.

The mat is thin, made of compacted material, called mineral felt; a mat formed by stitching, without adding a binder - a stitched mat.

For each product should be standard or specifications. (For example, "GOST 9573-2012. Heat-insulating mineral wool slabs on a synthetic binder. Specifications").

How to apply product indicate building codes(SNiP), codes of practice (SP) and the project of a specific heat-insulated structure.

The main types of mineral wool

Cotton wool properties depends on the raw material and the method of its production. The characteristics of the product determine its geometric parameters, the properties of wool and additional components and elements.

The choice depends on the purpose of the isolated object, its mode of operation, climatic and conditions, etc. Mineral wool groups by type of raw material:

• stone;
• slag;
• glass.

Basalt (stone) mineral wool

From basalt volcanic rocks, thanks to their hardness and fineness, make cotton wool with very thin - 1-3 microns and long - up to 5 cm fibers (BSTV, super-thin basalt fiber).

The thermal conductivity of such wool lowest. Products from BSTV can be molded without a binder.

With an increase in the diameter of the fibers, the heat and sound conductivity, weight, strength and use of basalt wool change. BSTV slabs work, supported by a frame, products from "heavy" basalt wool they themselves are able to perceive the load (insulation for reinforcement and plastering).

Basalt mineral wool is part of fire protection structures.

Advantages of stone wool:

• the greatest chemical resistance;
• the highest application temperature for BSTV is up to 1000 °C;
• random arrangement of long fibers (increases porosity, elasticity, strength, flexibility);
• absorption of both airborne and impact noise;
• the possibility of using in residential premises for internal insulation;
• the possibility of covering with plaster, screed, use inside the wall;
• high strength (except for BSTV);
• durability (up to half a century);
• low hygroscopicity of fibers (no more than 1%).

Flaws:

• relatively high cost;
• low maximum operating temperature if the fibers are bonded with a non-heat-resistant polymer composition

Stone wool products - rolls and slabs, with a maximum 10 cm thick. It is also used in unformed form.

Foil mineral wool

Foil mainly basalt wool. Thermal insulation increases the ability of the foil reflect heat radiation.

Important! Foiled mineral wool has a shiny surface towards a warm room.

slag wool

The raw material for this type of mineral wool is metallurgical slag. The length of its fibers is on average 16 mm with a diameter 4–12 microns.

Slag properties are such that it is reasonable to use materials based on it for thermal insulation of non-residential buildings.

Cons of slag wool:

• hygroscopicity (excludes facade insulation and water supply insulation);
• the lowest limiting application temperature and sintering temperature;
• poor tolerance for sudden changes in temperature;
• causticity;
• the presence of phenol-formaldehyde resins that are hazardous to health if their concentration does not correspond to that declared by the manufacturer;
• incompatibility with metal surfaces, with the likelihood of contact with water (the reason is the acidity of the slag).

Advantages of slag:

• the highest chemical resistance;
• the ability to mount on curved, including rounded surfaces;
• good sound insulation;
• durability (preservation of working qualities in the operating mode up to half a century);
• low cost.

glass wool

In the Unified Commodity Nomenclature for Foreign Economic Activity of the Eurasian Economic Union (TN VED EAEU), "glass wool" is highlighted separate code - 7019.

It is explained that this is mineral wool, but with certain content silicon oxide, alkali metal oxide or boron oxide. Other types of mineral wool are covered by another heading (6806).

In a melting furnace to obtain glass wool, mixtures are melted for the manufacture of glass - glass batches.

Advantages of glass wool:

• the length of the fibers can be up to 5 cm;
• the fibers, due to the protective layer, remain sufficiently elastic with a significant thickness (an obstacle in the way of impact noise);
• high chemical resistance;
• wide application possibilities (excluding contact with heated surfaces): from internal partitions to facades (with good waterproofing);
• low price.

Cons of glass wool:

• poor heat resistance;
• low maximum application temperature;
• causticity (low with modern fiber coatings);
• significant water absorption of fiberglass (vapor protection is necessary).

Standard: GOST 10499-95. “Heat-insulating products made of glass staple fiber. Specifications".

Mineral wool mats

According to GOST 21880-2011 checkmate difference- flexibility, with a thickness of 4 to 12 cm. Easy to install and fasten on curved surfaces.

They sew mats with wire, glass cord, flax cords, etc., cover them with a metal mesh, glass or mineral fabric, basalt fiber mesh, foil, etc. These additional materials affect the temperature mat application.

Important! The presence of a foil lining changes the flammability group of the mineral wool mat from NG to G1.

Effect of mineral wool insulation on dew point

In the thickness of the building envelope - the outer wall of the building, the dew point is set at vertical plane. It may be closer to the outer or inner surface, or coincide with one of them. With the change of seasons and weather, this border moves.

Thermal insulation device "moves" the dew point plane:

• internal - towards the room,
• outside - outside.

Experts note that only in one case out of ten, the internal thermal insulation of the building envelope turns out to be possible.

When insulated from the side of the street vapor barrier is placed indoors. A gap is left between the insulation and the facade cladding (with or without wind protection) - so that the wool does not remain wet if the dew point position is in it. (Wind protection for external insulation can only be abandoned if facing material airtight - glass, ceramics, metal).

Insulation basement and attic floors(if the basement and attic are cold) they must be isolated from steam. Slabs or mats of mineral wool are placed on the basement and covered with a vapor barrier membrane from above. The attic floor insulation is covered with a film from below.

Important! If the role of a vapor barrier material is performed by a one-sided membrane (one side of which is glossy, the other is fleecy), then the glossy side is turned to the insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of insulation

Advantages Compared to materials from organic raw materials, mineral wool:

• does not burn (all types of mineral wool belong to the NG class, GOST 31309-2005, NPB 244-97);
• retains heat and sound well;
• endures temperature fluctuations and exposure to aggressive substances;
• not subject to decay;
• does not mold;
• not damaged by insects and rodents;
• vapor permeable;
• has good operational properties;
• has an acceptable cost;
• strong enough.

Flaws:

• mandatory use of personal protective equipment during any manipulations with the material or heat-insulating product to protect the fiber and volatile components of additives from dust;
• fastening seal;
• tendency to caking (of unformed material);
• blowing (the need for wind protection);
• lack of vibration resistance, except for BSTV.

Important! Auxiliary elements of the heat-insulating structure (reinforcing, fastening, painting) increase its total thermal conductivity.

Mineral wool precautions

During installation, fragments are dangerous mineral fiber. Short and sharp, they cause inflammation of the skin and respiratory tract. Dangerous and volatile components of binders.

During operation with the high-quality performance of the entire thermal insulation system, mineral wool does not generate dust.

Any action with cotton in a closed space must be accompanied by the operation of supply and exhaust ventilation. The use of overalls and a respirator is mandatory. Waste generated during installation is taken to industrial waste landfills or returned to the manufacturer for disposal.

Most Valuable Property mineral wool as an element of building structures - its fire safety.

important and vapor permeability: indoor dampness is the cause of many diseases. A variety of mechanical properties, a wide range of products and an acceptable cost are convenient.

For High Quality Insulation and long service life of the heat-insulating structure, it is important to use the labor of skilled workers, adherence to the technology and technique of work.

See the video for the whole truth about mineral wool:

About the properties of Rockwool stone mineral wool, look at the video:

Surely, many residents of high-rise buildings would like to have a private house outside the bustling city. What could be better than your own living space, you think?

This is the absence of noisy neighbors, a large territory belonging only to your family and the opportunity to spend free time with your family and close friends in the fresh air.

But if you think that Vacation home this is pure pleasure, then you are deeply mistaken. In order to live in a mansion in comfortable conditions, you need to make every effort for this. The house should be cozy at any time of the year.

And since energy prices are constantly rising, you have to think about how best to insulate your home and minimize your dependence on the cost of gas and light.

Did you know that more than 45% of heat loss occurs through the walls of the house and 20% through the roof.

Every homeowner should strive to reduce heat loss by any accessible way. The most effective method of solving this issue is the insulation of the walls of a private building from the outside.

Of course, it is better to insulate the house well than to turn on several heating elements at the same time to heat living rooms every heating season.

As a heater, you can choose one of these materials:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• penoplex;
• penofol;
• penoizol;
• polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool insulation under siding

There are two ways to make thermal insulation of a country cottage - from within And outside. Of course, it would be nice to use both methods at the same time, but this pleasure is quite expensive and not every homeowner can afford it.

Specialists with extensive experience in the construction business strongly recommend taking care of external wall insulation. It will be correct and reasonable from the point of view of engineering thought.

In today's market building materials There are a large number of goods for thermal insulation. Mineral wool is very popular among private homeowners.

What is mineral wool

This material has a fibrous structure. This determines its high heat-insulating properties. Mineral wool insulation is characterized by good physical and mechanical characteristics. Mineral wool differs from other heat insulators in its resistance to deforming loads.. Due to this particular property, this material is very often used in multilayer thermal insulation systems.

1. Mineral wool is considered an environmentally friendly material.. Therefore, it can be used even in residential buildings.
2. This type of insulation has an increased fire resistance, it tolerates high temperatures well. The material is destroyed at temperatures above 1000 degrees.
3. Wall insulation with stone wool from the outside will help to achieve good soundproofing characteristics. This insulation has a long service life - 50 - 70 years.
4. Mineral wool is resistant to moisture, to chemical aggressive environments and to large fluctuations in temperature.

Mineral wool consists of rocks that are in a molten state and a variety of binding components (minerals of clay origin and phenol-based resins). And on top of the material, a small layer of kraft paper is applied.

Comparison of mineral wool with other materials

Types of mineral wool

This term means not one material, but as many as five:

• Glass wool. This is the most popular insulating material. It is necessary to work with such material in a special protective suit, goggles and a respirator.
• Slag. Numerous disadvantages of this substance make it impossible to use it as thermal insulation. The material easily absorbs moisture and interacts with metal surfaces, oxidizing them.
• Stone wool. According to its characteristic features, this material resembles slag wool. This type of insulation does not prick, so it is easier to work with it.
• Basalt wool. It does not contain blast-furnace slags and various additives. The material is practically not subject to the combustion process. This variety is most often used as thermal insulation.

Recently, wall insulation with ecowool has often been practiced. This material is environmentally friendly and has a high degree of sound insulation. Which mineral wool is better to use for insulation - you decide.

Positive and negative sides of mineral wool

Advantages:

• The material has a high fire resistance level.
• Good resistance to irritants of chemical and biological origin.
• Mineral wool is devoid of such a disadvantage as deformation.
• The material is not capable of accumulating liquid. It has low hygroscopicity.
• Vapor permeability at a high level.
• This insulation has a high sound insulation.
• This material is safe for human health.
• Ease of installation. Even a builder who does not have much work experience can cope with the work of insulating walls with mineral wool.
• Long service life - about seventy years.

Negative sides:

• Glass wool fibers are very brittle and if their structure is violated, small fragments can hurt a person painfully.
• In some cases mineral wool contains formaldehyde resin. If it is exposed to high temperature for a long period of time, it will oxidize to phenol (and this is poison).
• Thermal insulation made with mineral wool is easily blown through. Therefore, the structure must be carefully covered with decorative finishing material.

The above disadvantages are not characteristic of stone and basalt wool.

Mineral wool thickness for wall insulation

The most popular mineral wool product is mineral slabs.

Mineral wool dimensions:

• length - 100-600cm
• width - is within - 20-180cm
• the thickness of mineral wool for wall insulation, as a rule, is 10-25 cm.

The interval is quite large, but such indicators were achieved thanks to modern production technology. Mineral wool slabs are easily attached to houses built using frame technology.

Plates with a thickness of 2-25 cm are used for thermal insulation of the facade of the building under plaster. The thickness of mineral wool in mats ranges from 2 to 22 cm (these figures depend on how the rolls are finished: it can be aluminum foil, fiberglass or wire mesh).

Mats with a density of 150-220 mm can be used for external wall insulation in central Russia.

wall pie

Wall vapor barrier

When performing work on the insulation of walls, it is necessary to do so in such a way as to minimize the ingress of moisture from the interior of the residential building under the insulation.

To do this, you need to provide a layer of vapor barrier, it is laid directly on the wall. An air-permeable diffuse membrane can be used for this.

The vapor barrier material is fastened with a construction stapler, individual strips must be fixed with staples. To preserve the insulating properties of the material, it is best to lay the canvas with an overlap of 10 -12 cm.

The seams can be additionally insulated with adhesive tape (stationery tape is suitable for this purpose).

How to make a crate for mineral wool on the outside of the wall

The sequence of your actions when insulating walls should be as follows:

1. All work surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and treated.
2. It is necessary to dismantle various planks, frames, ebbs and other elements.
3. The holes in the wall should be covered with hemp or special mastic.
4. Wooden components for siding are impregnated with a fire-resistant primer, and the walls are covered with an antiseptic.

The crate under the mineral wool must be made of wooden bars (they will later be used to fasten the siding). The distance between the beams depends on the width of the slabs to be laid.

The crate is fastened with galvanized nails or dowels. The bars can be placed both horizontally and vertically.

It is necessary to additionally fix the lining around the perimeter of window and door openings. In this case, do not forget to check the plane of the frame by level.

The thickness of the wooden beam must correspond to the layer of insulation.

NOTE!

The insulating material must fit snugly into its sections. Mineral wool slabs are best laid in a checkerboard pattern, while blocking the joints.

And now let's look at step-by-step instructions for insulating the walls of a private house.

Lathing installation

Wall insulation technology outside with mineral wool for siding

Wall insulation frame house Do-it-yourself mineral wool is produced according to the following scheme:

• First of all, you need to clean the surface of the walls, if irregularities are found on it, they should be puttied.
• In order to increase adhesion to the wall surface, apply a primer.
• Next, you need to fill the crate. The bars can be stuffed both horizontally and vertically.
• We make laying of a vapor barrier with an overlap.
• Your next actions, on which the performance of the entire thermal insulation system will be based, is cutting the insulation. For this work, you will need a sharp knife and a wooden board that will serve as a press. The dimensions of the mineral wool slabs must match the dimensions of the crate plus 5 mm for arranging mounting allowances.
• The next stage is the laying of insulation between the bars of the crate. From all ends it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of mineral wool boards. There should be no gaps between adjacent sheets.
• Arrangement of a vertical crate. Here you need to consider the type of siding that will be used for cladding the house. For ordinary vinyl siding, you need to make a crate with a step of bars - 400mm. If you plan to install metal siding, then there should be a distance of 600-1000mm between the constituent components of the vertical batten.
• If your plans are to make a second layer of thermal insulation, then it must be laid in the same way as the first layer, only perpendicularly.
• Installation of waterproofing.
• Fixing siding panels.

Installation of a metal crate

2 layer insulation scheme

3 methods of laying insulation

Execution of waterproofing works

Since mineral wool is a heat-insulating material with high permeable properties, the facade of the house must be provided with good waterproofing.

In order to ensure the process of removing moisture from mineral wool boards, which is formed as a result of temperature differences in the room and on the street, a waterproofing film or diffusion membrane must be installed.

To ensure the movement of water only in the outer direction, it is necessary to fasten the waterproofing with the wide side of the pores to the mineral wool, and the narrow side to the sheathing. Self-tapping screws must be used as fasteners. The waterproofing is overlapped, from top to bottom, the seams are glued with mounting tape.

Waterproofing under siding

Useful video

Wall insulation with mineral wool in video instructions:

Conclusion

This method of insulation is suitable for thermal insulation of brick (aerated concrete), wooden and frame walls. After carefully reading the information presented in this article, you were able to make sure that you can insulate the walls from the outside with mineral wool for siding on your own, without involving specialists.

The main thing in this matter is to properly mount the frame and strictly follow the technology when performing each of the processes.

The most comfortable for residential premises are the temperature within 20-25ºС and humidity from 50 to 60%. To ensure such a microclimate in the house, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the walls. The optimal insulation for the walls of the house outside is selected taking into account the material of construction and must meet a number of requirements.

To ensure comfortable conditions in the house, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the walls.

The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. The smaller this value, the better material prevents heat from escaping into the environment.

Fact! Through the walls, the dwelling loses up to 30% of heat.

How best to insulate the walls of the house

There are two ways to insulate a building - apply internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. What is the best heater to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

The dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on the physical properties of the wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation of the thickness.

The better to insulate the walls from the outside

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
• the ability to regulate the microclimate in the room;
• high sound absorption rates;
• ecological cleanliness;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

• resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
• strength and durability;
• elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
• low weight;
• the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
• ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
• ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation for the walls of the house outside. Videos showing the possibility of independent work (as well as other manuals) in our time can be found enough.

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the premises from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the method of installation. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.

The most commonly used types of heaters are:

• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex);
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt heaters;
• liquid insulation.

Styrofoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside.

Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam)

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymeric insulation for house walls and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial.

First of all, this material is distinguished by low coefficients of thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproofing and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of the degree of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and has a small weight

Other advantages include flexibility and light weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation.

The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its combustibility, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex)

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 - 0.031 W / m * K. It is resistant to mold, chemicals, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator.

Due to this, it is possible to use penoplex as a heater outside: for the walls of wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam is different high level adhesion with all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing.

The seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside of buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the wall of the building and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool (basalt insulation, stone wool, glass wool)

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in durability, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high degree of sound absorption and low cost.

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as a heater for the walls of the house outside. The dimensions of the boards produced can be as follows:

• 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
• 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and buildings made of timber, brick or foam blocks. It is possible to carry out work with this material at a temperature in the range from -60ºС to +220ºС, which is definitely convenient when mounted on walls from the outside. Insulation in the country, houses made of wood, brick or foam blocks, garages, warehouses and other buildings - this is an incomplete list of the possibilities for using mineral thermal insulation.

Related article:

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the house from the outside, followed by siding.

It is also popular to use mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blown insulation. With this method, with the help of a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade, which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation

Liquid heat-insulating materials can be called heaters of a new generation. It is possible to use them both for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses made of foam blocks. Outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint.

However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid heaters are similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using paint tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices.

After 6 hours of drying, a solid, highly resistant to mechanical stress coating is formed.

Fixing sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out with special fasteners such as "fungus"

Due to the low thermal conductivity, liquid insulation for the walls of the house helps to reduce heat loss, even if applied from the outside in a thin layer. They protect the surface from weather influences (operational temperature range - from -60 to + 260 ° C), solar radiation and precipitation, and metal parts from corrosion.

Interesting! Water absorption of most liquid heaters within 24 hours does not exceed 0.4% by weight.

Coating with liquid insulation is one of the effective ways prevent the formation of condensate and protect the industrial or residential premises from freezing, the development of all types of mold fungi.

Ways to insulate the walls of the house from the outside

Most modern heaters are universal and can be mounted outside the house on any walls: made of wood, timber, foam blocks, red or white brick; as well as for various types of exterior finishes: plaster, vinyl siding, decorative brick, stone facade slabs. After reviewing all the characteristics, you can choose the appropriate type of wall insulation. Outside, houses made of timber are insulated similarly to buildings made of other materials.

Based on the variety of existing thermal insulation materials, for each type of wall in combination with its finish, the best option for installing insulation is selected:

1. Installation of insulation under plaster.
2. Three-layer non-ventilated wall.
3. Ventilated facade.

Examples of wall insulation followed by brick cladding

Installation of insulation under plaster

When installing insulation under plaster, for the walls of houses outside, polystyrene foam, basalt insulation boards, sheets of mineral wool or foam insulation are most often used as a heat insulator.

The insulation is fixed on the walls of the house from the outside with the help of an adhesive solution and reinforced with a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Special fasteners of the "fungus" type perform additional fixation of foam sheets or basalt insulation boards. For the walls of the house outside, plaster is used as a finish (the “wet facade” method) or facing materials.

Insulation system "wet facade"

Three-layer non-ventilated wall

A three-layer non-ventilated wall is formed by the walls of the house from the outside, insulation and facade decoration, laid out taking into account the air gap. This method is used when installing with finishing for the walls of the house outside under the brick. Insulators of various types are used in this option, including heat-insulating materials for blown installation.

This method is used for the insulation of various buildings, both brick or foam concrete, and wooden or timber.

Non-ventilated facade with blown insulation

Facade finishing is carried out with facing slabs, decorative or building bricks.

Ventilated facade

Insulation from a heater for a ventilated facade is assembled from the following layers:

• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• wind protection;
• finishing facade cladding (lining, siding, panels).

The principle of arrangement of a ventilated facade

Installation of insulation as part of a ventilated facade is the most preferred option, since heat losses are minimized due to wind protection. Also, waterproofing provides additional protection of the surface of the walls from moisture.

The use of a ventilated facade is possible with most types of buildings, materials and configurations of external walls and facade finishes. This option is most common when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding. Also, this installation method is the best for warming the outside walls of wooden houses: from a log or from a bar.

Insulated walls can be lined with material for every taste

Regardless of the variety and type of material used as a heat insulator, any of the mentioned installation options should cope with the main tasks - room insulation, wall waterproofing, protection from wind and drafts, as well as heat preservation.

The undoubted advantage of most of the materials mentioned in the article is the ability to independently install them as insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. Photo and video clips, as well as other instructions, will be very useful in this case.

Thermal insulation of the house outside

Thermal insulation of external walls is an important task, because heat losses through them average 30%. Various materials are designed to hinder this process. A universal option is wall insulation with mineral wool. In this case, the thermal insulation layer is mounted both outside and inside the building. Mineral wool is suitable for various types of surfaces. It's easy to work with her. You can decorate the coating in different ways: siding (panels), decorative plaster, or paint. When choosing a material, they take into account the optimal density and thickness of mineral wool for their region of residence. Insulation of the facade of the house is shown in the photo below.

Purpose and types of mineral wool

The insulated house resembles a thermos. Compared to a building without a thermal insulation coating, it has significant advantages. The use of mineral wool for wall insulation leads to a number of positive aspects, such as:

• heat losses are minimized, which makes it possible to significantly save money on heating during the cold season;
• in warm months, the insulating coating prevents the walls from heating up and helps maintain a stable (lower than outside) temperature indoors, while its comfortable level is often achieved even without the use of air conditioners;
• the inner surfaces of the walls adjacent to the street do not dampen, no condensation is created on them;
• lack of moisture prevents the reproduction of mold, the spores of which adversely affect human health.

roll material

Mineral wool as a heater for walls is very popular. It is produced in rolls or plates, the strength of the fibers of which is achieved by processing with special materials. The photo below shows a roll-type material.

The use of mats to create a thermal insulation coating over large areas allows you to minimize the number of joints.

The material differs in the degree of rigidity (density). Soft varieties of it are used mainly indoors in conjunction with frame structures. When there is a possibility of mechanical impacts on the partitions, then a coating is created from rigid or semi-rigid types of products.

Mineral wool has a fibrous structure obtained by cooling crushed and then stretched into the finest threads of mineral raw materials. The table below shows the types of wool for walls and other sections of the building, divided by the material from which they are made.

raw material for manufacturing	granite, basalt, porphyrite	waste from the metallurgical industry - slag	molten glass with additives: soda, limestone, dolomite
comparative quality	high quality material	inferior to the stone variety: poorly withstands temperature changes, less durable in wet conditions	this product is quite elastic, tolerates vibration effects well
application area	for thermal insulation of important structures that are to be operated for a long period	used as an insulating coating for sheds, summer or temporary buildings	recommended for premises requiring an increased level of fire safety

Different types of mineral wool for wall insulation have a different ratio of price and quality of the material. They are available in the form of plates or rolls of different densities. The choice of working material is influenced by both the shape of the products and its composition.

Characteristics and choice of material

Mineral wool for walls has its pros and cons. They are summarized in the table.

1	has a low thermal conductivity, ensuring the preservation of heat in the house	when wet, it loses its heat-insulating properties, shape, therefore, when installed outside or inside buildings, it is covered with a special film (permeable to steam).
2	mineral wool withstands temperature extremes from -200 to +600 degrees without changing its shape	rodents can damage the insulating coatings formed by the mineral wool outside or inside
3	products are inert to environmental influences	when working with the material, it is necessary to use individual protective equipment: a respirator, gloves, a special suit
4	easy to process: cut with a saw or hacksaw

Which mineral wool is best determined by the following parameters:

• thermal conductivity: the smaller it is, the better heat is retained;
• durability;
• vapor permeability;
• degree of fire safety of the material.

Installation of mineral wool and cladding

On products with a higher coefficient of vapor permeability, the layer of plaster dries more quickly than on surfaces with a smaller value. The durability of the selected material is determined mainly by the correctness of its installation: a coating fixed in accordance with all standards can last for an almost unlimited time. An example of proper wall insulation with mineral wool from the outside is shown in the photo below.

How to choose the right heat insulator will help the following recommendations:

• for wall insulation outside frame structures, stone or glass wool is mainly used with a vapor permeability index of at least 0.5 mg / m * h * Pa;
• when applying plaster on a thermal insulation layer, the density of the material (of which it consists) must be more than 130 kg / m³, and vapor permeability - 0.35 mg / m * h * Pa minimum;
• wall insulation with mineral wool inside the structure can be created from products with a density of 10 to 90 kg / m³, a noise absorption index of at least 42 dB;
• the density of mineral wool used for non-residential or industrial buildings should be - 50-70 kg / m³;
• when creating ventilated facades, they already use denser material - up to 110 kg / m³;
• for zones with a prevailing temperate continental climate, plates 8-10 cm thick should be chosen, increasing this indicator with the removal to the north;

The density of mineral wool for wall insulation and the required coating thickness are selected according to local climatic conditions, the future load on the ceiling. At the same time, other indicators should be optimally combined: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, fire safety.

External wall insulation methods

Insulation of brick walls outside with mineral wool, as well as structures made of other materials, can be performed in several ways. They differ in the options for attaching insulation to the base. There are such methods:

• "well";
• "wet" method;
• "dry" fixing option (the so-called ventilated facade).

The “well” method involves the installation of a heat insulator between the supporting base (brick, monolithic, foam concrete, etc.) and the outer facing coating of silicate brick or cellular concrete.

Step-by-step instructions for creating thermal insulation in a “wet” way are as follows:

• prepare the surface of the rough base: remove the defective old coating, cover with a primer layer, level the working area with a plaster mortar, treat the dried layer with a special (adhesion-improving) composition;
• mount the insulation on the base;
• stick plates on the walls;
• additionally fix them with dowels;
• reinforce the formed coating with the help of a mesh and a solution;
• prime the entire working area;
• plastered with a decorative composition, or painted in the desired color.

"Wet" way

The manual for the installation of insulation "dry" method includes the following operations:

• prepare the work surface: remove slopes and trim, eliminate wall defects, cover them with an antiseptic and anti-rotting agent (if wooden), prime (other types of bases), dry for about a day;
• mount a frame made of wooden bars or a metal profile: the guides are placed in increments of 2 cm less than the width of the fixed plates;
• insulating material is laid in the cells of the crate;
• fix a film on double-sided tape or a stapler that serves as waterproofing and wind protection at the same time;
• so that a ventilated gap is formed and it is possible to fix the facing coating (asbestos-cement slabs, siding), mount the rails on the created frame;
• fix decorative trim.

The dimensions of the guide bars are chosen according to the height of the walls and the thickness of the mounted heat insulator. Before installation, they are treated with an antiseptic composition. Saving will allow the arrangement of guides at a distance less than the length of the plates by 2 cm.

The "wet" method is well suited for brick houses, or buildings made of aerated concrete or foam block, and "dry" - for wooden structures. Work should not be carried out in the rain, because the cotton wool will get wet and lose its shape, insulation and other properties.

Mineral wool installation technology indoors

Frame method of mounting mineral wool

The technology of wall insulation with mineral wool indoors is similar to the methods used outside. The option is chosen based on the material of the working surfaces and their condition. To prevent the formation of dampness and, as a result, mold, the base is treated with special compounds. The joints are covered with tape.

The photo above shows the insulation of the room from the inside using a wooden crate.

If foil-covered mineral wool is used, then moisture-proofing material can be omitted.

Roll materials can also be fixed with special staples.

For internal insulation work, a material with a density of up to 90 kg / m³ is suitable.

Wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool has a number of advantages over the internal installation of the material. Firstly, load-bearing partitions are protected from external influences, the internal volume of the premises is not reduced. Secondly, outdoor work allows you to give the facade the desired look, and the created coating does not impair indoor ventilation.

A brick building insulated according to all the rules, or a monolithic, stone, wooden, frame building will last a longer period. At the same time, comfortable conditions inside the housing will be maintained, regardless of the season of the year. Doing the work yourself will significantly reduce the cost of the insulation process.

One of the ways to insulate the facade of a building (“wet”) is demonstrated in detail by the following video.

The properties and purpose of mineral wool are described later in the video.