How to level walls in a wooden house: nuances of process technology. How to level walls in a wooden house with pox boards or plasterboard How to level a wall made of logs

In many regions Russian Federation Housing construction is intensively developing, including individual houses and cottages.

A wooden house made of timber or logs has a number of features, one of which is gradual shrinkage, which occurs within 1-3 years after completion of construction.

After this period, the owner is faced with the question of how to level the walls in wooden house quickly and efficiently and get the job done while spending a moderate amount of money?

The most affordable way to carry out repairs is to level the walls using plasterboard slabs.

For installation of drywall, a special technology is used, which allows the work to be carried out quickly and efficiently.

When using the frame sheet method, a number of preparatory operations are first performed:

the walls on which the drywall will be attached are cleaned of traces of old finishing, fasteners, nails, and screws are removed
then the walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt
all cracks and chips are eliminated by puttying
the wall is coated with a special composition for thorough drying
markings are made for the profile and guides for their further installation
To add rigidity, a horizontal profile is marked

Particular attention should be paid to work in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. By covering the walls with plasterboard, it becomes possible to hide the pipes, heating communications system and external electrical wiring.

It is necessary to take into account the air humidity in the premises, since plasterboard slabs are susceptible to high humidity. At temperatures below +10*C, working with drywall is prohibited.

When installing GKP, it is most often used metallic profile. During installation, 2 options are mainly used:

Option 1: Installation of a rack-mounted metal profile
Option 2 profile using the ceiling method.

For correct installation the profile is carefully measured and the working surfaces are marked. The guide profiles are fastened at a distance of 500 mm from each other.

To fasten the profile to the wall, hangers are used (at the rate of 3 pieces per 1 m of profile).

The racks are mounted with a pitch of 600 mm, but in case of complications, the pitch can be reduced to 400 mm.

To strengthen the frame, horizontal jumpers are used.

After completing the installation of the frame, the plasterboard sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws with a set spacing for fastening of 250 mm.

After completing all the work on fastening the sheets, all seams are taped with a special tape and covered with putty.
For work in the bathroom, special moisture-resistant sheets are used.

But to maintain the required level of humidity in the bathroom, you need to install a special electric fan.

When installing plasterboard sheets, thermal insulation is installed at the same time. Foam boards, mineral wool and sheet cork can be used as insulators.

Doing the work yourself

All work on leveling the walls can be done with your own hands, using materials produced by Russian enterprises. When asked how to level the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you can accurately thaw it using finishing panels.

The material for finishing walls can be finishing panels, which are divided into:

moisture resistant
non-moisture resistant

Moisture-resistant finishing panels include:

natural wood panels
plastic panels
plywood laminated on both sides

Non-moisture resistant materials include:

cork panels
chipboard panels
MDF panels

Decorating the walls inside the house

The main flaw of a log house is uneven walls

Finishing is widely used inside the house using wooden forcing, which is an environmentally friendly material and is excellent for decorating the interior of the house.

The internal walls of the house are lined with clapboards, giving the home special comfort and coziness. Particularly notable is the block house finishing material - a facing board that imitates appearance log house

The walls of the house are finished with block house cladding boards, imitating the decoration inside a village hut made of logs.

The technologies used for the manufacture of finishing boards ensure the durability and resistance of the material to environmental influences. The decoration of a house made using a block house will last for many years while maintaining the color of the wood.

The choice of material for wall decoration depends on many factors, including the preferences of the house owner, who, in order to carry out repair work, must have information on how to level the walls in a wooden house from the inside, combining the two factors of efficiency and quality.

Several conditions are the most important for repairs: the cost of the material, the colors offered, the texture of the material and performance characteristics.

Most home owners make their choice by noting natural materials, preferring to use them for finishing, taking into account one of the main qualities - the environmental friendliness of natural wood, which has minimal impact on the environment. About finishing wooden house You can watch the video from inside:

2 ways to level a log house

If the cause of structural changes was the loss of foundation strength, and the house sank, then before starting work, the sagging section of the wall is lifted using jacks, observing the mandatory rules:

to reduce the load on the jacks, furniture and equipment are removed;
lifting must be carried out with at least two jacks;
The jacks are raised one by one to a height of no more than five centimeters.

After the settled section of the wall is raised, the bearing capacity of the soil and the foundation are restored. Next, the curvature is eliminated. The main material for mechanical alignment is a metal angle made from metal plates of suitable sizes. The sides of the corner are equipped with mounting holes, and threaded steel studs secure it to the wall, ceiling, and other structural elements.

Corners are installed both at the place of curvature and opposite, to give symmetry. The corner installation technology is standard. A hole is drilled in the wooden surface of the beam, the diameter of which should not exceed the circumference of the pin being driven in. The corner is installed on studs and fixed with nuts that regulate the degree of tightness of the logs, which eliminates the design from any distortions that may arise.

The decorating method is used for minor curvatures of the walls, provided that the main structural elements of the house building are intact. This method is also used after alignment using metal corners to hide the visual consequences of misalignment.

Drywall is used as a material to give an aesthetic appearance to the log house. Before starting work, antiseptic and fire retardant treatment of wooden surfaces is carried out. At the next stage, a vapor barrier is installed to prevent moisture from penetrating the wood from the rooms. Plasterboard sheets are installed on the sheathing. If necessary, insulation and sound insulation are laid, communication pipes and wiring are laid out.

Craftsmen recommend installing sheets of drywall at intervals of three millimeters. To fill the gap, elastic putty is used. After installing the drywall, proceed to decorative finishing, corresponding to the intended interior and purpose of the room.

The craftsmen of the company “Finishing the Log House” will level the log house efficiently and quickly, after first identifying the causes of the curvature, they will take the necessary measures to correct the defects.

We level the wall in a log house and fix the wall with casing

Topic: Wall alignment

There is an old wooden house (log house), to which an extension made of gas silicate blocks is attached on both sides, and this entire structure (log house with extension) is lined with facing bricks.
The question arose about interior decoration. I will plaster the gas silicate, but there is a problem with the walls made of logs. The log house is old (but not rotten), the logs are of different diameters, i.e. if vertically, then one log sticks out strongly relative to the other, etc. I need to level the walls. And so that there are no voids in them, because... it will be a breeding ground for mice, beetles, etc. Plastering all this requires a carload of plaster, and plasterers will only undertake this for a lot of money. If you cover it with plasterboard, then fill in the void behind it. I have the idea and the opportunity to fill it with fine-grained expanded clay (it is possible to get it for relatively little money). Who thinks about this? Maybe there will be some other options for filling the void behind the drywall so that mice don’t crawl there? Glass wool is not a very cheap option and you need a lot of it, and the question of whether or not mice live in it is very controversial. Thanks in advance for your advice

In mice, beetles, etc. there is one common property. They need to eat. And drink. If there is no food, then no one will start. They cover the walls with clapboard, and you can’t hear anyone complaining.

pour rat poison behind the drywall and the problem will go away

When I cleared the walls of the 10-20 layers of wallpaper that were on them (the first layer was newspapers from 1960), I threw out about 20 mouse nests. It seemed like there was nothing for the mice to eat there, but they lived there, and at night it sometimes seemed like they were having parades there. Constant rustling and fussing. I don’t want to spend money on drywall and wallpaper, and then listen to it all again. I think that if a mouse wants to get through there, it will get through. Poison is good, but often mice die where they live and begin to smell bad. I also encountered this problem.
These are the thoughts. What problems can there be with expanded clay and drywall? If I pour expanded clay, it will only be dry.

I myself encountered a similar problem, I even opened a topic about it, but there weren’t any skilled people :-(I had to dig up the information myself...
I think the best way to solve this problem is to line the walls with ecowool. Details on this material on www.ecowool.ru
Only using the wet method. In this case, not only the unevenness of the log house is leveled out, but also sound, heat, moisture, noise insulation and protection of the wood are added. I recommend

ilham
did you use it - this cotton wool? As for wet application on the walls, it is quite expensive, but pouring basalt wool into the floor between the joists is much more beautiful for the money. And if it really repels mice, then this is a very good option.
And it will be very difficult, even impossible, to pour it dry into the walls behind drywall. In this regard, expanded clay seems to me to be a more technologically advanced material, although ecowool is cheaper. Do you know if if you add water to it and somehow manually apply it between the drywall profiles, before attaching the sheet, is this possible? It seems like plastering the distance between the profiles.
By the way, what else does anyone think about filling in small expanded clay? There was an opinion above that the technology of plasterboard partitions does not allow the use of expanded clay backfill behind them? Why if the expanded clay is 3-5cm? He's light. I don't think it will push through a sheet of drywall? But he must fill all the voids.

This is a pleasure for us in Kazan: 2800 rubles per cubic meter including labor for wet application and 1800 for dry application. I believe that it is not that expensive compared to traditional insulation. It’s just that each case requires an individual approach. IMHO there is nothing for this particular case of ecowool. On my log house I did just that, I leveled the walls with 50x50 timber, they were also the guides, the result was a perfectly flat wall, those who haven’t seen the wall don’t even realize that it was a log house. Area 40 sq.m. it cost about 10 thousand. If I remember, I’ll take a photo of what happened...

Yes, if the ecowool did not then have to be covered with anything (or glued to it), then it would not be expensive. But profile + plasterboard + ecowool + wallpaper - for my case it turns out to be a long time. Because I don't care about insulation, I care about tearing out. I found out that in Vitebsk, covering 120 square meters with a thickness of 4-5 cm using the wet method will cost $500. A little expensive for leveling.
It's another matter if you need to insulate. When I come to insulating the attic (at least 15 cm of insulation is needed), I will work on the ecowool option. We get it cheaper than basalt.
Regarding the question of this topic, today people suggested the option of sealing the gaps between the profiles with clay and sand, first stuffing something like a mesh of wooden chips and then filling it with drywall. There is a lot of clay near my site. What do you think about clay? What ambushes could there be?

Making a log house
After assembly, the log house dries out and shrinks within one to two years, and complete stabilization of the log house occurs after 3–4 years. Therefore, it is cut down even before the foundations are laid. To make a log house, the framed crown is assembled on linings. They are made from debarked aspen logs about 1 m long. All linings are leveled with each other with a height difference of no more than 3 cm and they are placed so that the frame crown rests on them with a log, and not with corner cuts. The pads are installed offset from the corners by 1/4 of the length of the walls (Fig. 21). This is done so that the log house sits evenly and the walls or corners do not sag. Or, for uniform shrinkage, you need to add a number of pads.
Rice. 21. Laying the trim crown
Two logs of the frame crown are rolled onto the linings, opposite to each other with the butts directed in different directions. The logs are lifted with wedges and leveled with their upper humps to the horizon. Measure the gap between the thin ends of the logs and the linings, and increase it by 1/4–1/2 of the diameter. The logs are beaten with a chalked cord, turned, secured with staples to the linings and hewn to one edge. In order for the frame crown to lie tightly on the foundation, it is trimmed to the following height: longitudinal logs are half, transverse logs are three-quarters. But this is not a prerequisite; they can do it differently. When installing a log house on a foundation, the hewn side will lie on the base of the foundation. The logs are turned again and adjusted to the dimensions of the log house. Transverse logs of the casing crown are laid on them. Butt to butt of the bottom log, top to top. They measure the log house and adjust the logs if necessary. The error in measuring the diagonals should be no more than 1–2 cm. After making adjustments to the installation of the logs, the first two logs of the casing crown are securely fastened with staples to the pads.

According to the chosen pattern of corner notches, the upper (transverse) logs of the casing crown are drawn. Make corner cuts and knit the first crown. The work ends for today - a feast and sacrifice are held. The tradition, however... was not started by us, and it is not for us to break it. Laying the casing crown, the most important part of the work, depends on the correctness of its installation, whether the building will be smooth, beautiful and rectangular in plan or whether it will turn out oblique and lopsided.

Let us remind you again. The humps of the frame crown logs must be leveled to the horizon, this is done by cutting the logs from below, and the diagonals are aligned. By the way, the diagonals are also checked on other crowns; ideally, they should be checked on each crown.

The remaining crowns are assembled according to the accepted corner cutting pattern. Each crown of the log house is grouped by corners: top to top, butt to butt. And in the corners of the next crown: above the butts - the tops; butts over the peaks. When adjusting logs, the following situations may arise (Fig. 22):

There is a gap in the longitudinal groove. The ends of the log are lifted up, but it lies tightly with its belly on the lower log.

The “dash” measures the clearance in the corner notches and, without changing the size of the extension of the legs, the “dash” outlines the longitudinal groove. That is, they redo the cutting of the longitudinal groove.
There's a gap in the corners. The log fits tightly into the corner cuts, but a gap is visible under its belly.

The gap is measured with a “line” and transferred to the corner cuts, drawing and cutting or trimming the “extra” wood in the corners.
Local undercut. The log does not lie flat: one side is lifted up or the log is swaying.

They look for local gaps in the longitudinal groove and/or corner notches, or a previously unnoticed knot in the bottom log is in the way.

rice. 22. Drawing when fitting logs
To prevent the logs in the log house from being pushed out, they are fastened together along the entire length with dowels or dowels. Dowels or, in the old-fashioned way, “cokes” are installed in each log of the crown. They are made from scraps of logs by splitting and hewing out rectangular plates. The thickness, height and width of the cokes are arbitrary, but usually they should be at least 25 mm. The step for installing the cokes is approximately 1 m. Vertical notches are made on the log laid and fitted into the log house, using an ax to grab both logs of the log house: the top and bottom, thus marking the place where the cokes are installed. The top log is then removed and turned over. In both logs: upper and lower, using a chisel, select nests for installing coconuts. The nests in the top log are made deeper than required by 5–10 mm. When the log house shrinks, the logs should not hang on the cokes. After the nests have been selected, cokes are hammered into the bottom log of the frame, and moss or other inter-crown material is placed on the top of the log. The top log is turned over, lifted and placed on cokes (Fig. 23). To ensure planting density, it is gently tapped with a “woman”.
Rice. 23. Joining logs with cokes
Due to the difficulty of fastening logs with cokes, they are replaced with round dowels with a diameter of 25–30 mm, made of dry dense wood. The dowels begin to be installed from the corner of the log house at a distance of 200–250 mm and continue installation in increments of 1.5–2 m. The dowels are easier to install than cokes. After the logs of the crowns are adjusted and laid in the walls of the log house on the inter-crown sealant, he sits down on the log house and drills three logs at once in height with a drill, a drill or a brace. Then a dowel is inserted into the drilled hole (Fig. 24). It should fit into the hole with tension, but quite easily and sink below the edge of the hole by 0.8–1.2 cm. It should not reach the bottom of the well by the same distance. That is, the dowel is made shorter than the well prepared for it by 20%, the same goal is pursued as when installing cokes: not to interfere with the natural shrinkage of the log house.
Rice. 24. Connecting logs with dowels
It should be noted that dowels and cokes in roundwood logs are, in all likelihood, not an ancient invention. When dismantling old buildings, they are not always found. Vertical stability of the walls was given by door and window jambs cut into the walls. But let us note that these jambs were made quite massive - from chopped logs.

When installing insulation, so as not to be blown away by the wind, it is lightly pressed down with an axe, moistened or shot with staplers. After assembling the walls of the log house, do not leave the sealant hanging on the walls, but wrap it and caulk it into the grooves. Otherwise, it will either be stolen by birds to build nests, or people will set it on fire.

So gradually the log house is assembled to a height convenient for work. When it becomes too high to lift the logs onto the log house, the log house is rebuilt. The upper crown is removed from it, placed on linings and construction continues. Typically, three relays of a log house are made: two relays for cutting the walls and a third for making wooden roof structures.
Log bathhouses and log houses are cheap. - for finishing of log houses
Types of jobs Cost, rub. Unit measurements Roofing: Roofing felt 100 sq.m. Metal tiles 350 sq.m. Ondulin 300 sq.m. Prof. sheet 300 sq.m Sparse lathing 150 sq.m Solid lathing 220 sq.m Waterproofing 80 sq.m Roof insulation 80 sq.m Log caulking:

Caulking with moss 80 linear meters Caulking with tow 70 linear meters Manufacturing of floors: Installation of logs 550 pcs Solid subfloor 100 sq.m Sparse subfloor 80 sq.m Floor waterproofing - 1 layer 45 sq.m Floor insulation - 1 layer 55 sq.m Floor vapor barrier 45 sq.m Finished flooring - board 300 sq.m Manufacturing of ceilings:

Alignment of ceiling beams 150 linear meters Rough ceiling 180 sq.m Waterproofing - 1 layer 55 sq.m Vapor barrier - 1 layer 55 sq.m Insulation 60 sq.m Finish ceiling 300 sq.m

Windows and doors:

Opening for the window500 puptime for the door 700 shuttlebueting door blocks 1500 shuttlecock of window blocks 1300 pound -podokodonnik 300 pupa. Window slopes

Furnace installation:

Foundation for from 2500 cubic meters Installation of a metal stove from 7000 pcs Installation of a chimney - pipe from 1000 pcs Installation of a protective screen 500 pcs Protective screen - brick negotiable

Refractory brick ovennegotiable

Chimney - bricknegotiable

Wall cladding and insulation:

Alignment of log house walls 220 sq. m Frame for cladding - timber 50 lin. m Wall upholstery with foil 50 sq. m Waterproofing of walls 45 sq. m Vapor insulation of walls 45 sq. m Wall insulation 55 sq. m Cladding with clapboard from 300 sq. m Cladding with block house, imitation timber from 350 sq. m Installation of baseboards ov 60 linear meters

Electrical: negotiable

Electrical wiring, panelsnegotiable

Electric heater installationfrom 2000pcs

Plumbing: negotiable

Installation of a shower cabin is negotiable

Sink installation negotiable

Other extras works:

Manufacturing of stairsnegotiable

Manufacturing of shelves in a steam roomnegotiable

Shower traynegotiable

Concrete screed semi-negotiable

Sanding of log walls from 350 sq.m. Painting of walls, antiseptic treatment negotiable

Cornices 500 linear meters Sewing of gables from 300 sq. m Gable door 1000 pcs
Alignment of walls in a log house
Try it and find out! This is much more difficult than just planing. Moreover, axes are needed with crooked handles, this is if you make them in an already finished house. And this way it’s easier to cut the walls, and the angle inside can be straight, and not like we did there. You’ll just get tired of grinding, both in terms of work and in terms of circles. First, try to make it completely out of timber for 100*200, even for 50*200 and you will understand, you will suffer! Moreover, this should be done not on a lying board, but on the wall. We did it, one might say, just like in the old days, only saws simplify and speed up this work, and it’s the same thing. And a plane is the same plane, a plane is a carpenter's plane, and a regular one is a carpenter's plane. And they covered the walls, for example, I heard with wax, but they seemed to mix it with something, I don’t remember now. But the smell in such houses!

All photos from the article

When it comes to interior finishing, many developers begin to think about how to level wooden walls. Slabs from various materials, which are laid directly on the side surfaces. However, too large differences can be eliminated by creating an additional support structure for them.

Application of OSB

This material is oriented strand boards glued together using various resins. Wood chips in the layers of the product can be located both longitudinally and transversely. A distinctive feature of the product is its high physical and mechanical properties.

Advantages of the material

Good biological stability prevents the spread of fungi, microorganisms and insects.
The low price allows individual developers to get by with minimal losses during the work.
Easy to install slabs makes it possible to carry out all installation operations with your own hands.
Light weight products significantly simplifies the process of transportation and installation.

Addition!
OSB boards have good resistance to moisture.
They are able to maintain their strength parameters even if they were completely immersed in water for 24 hours.
The swelling coefficient is 10 percent.

Load-bearing structure

In case of minor unevenness, it is possible to lay this product without an additional base. For example, when you need to prepare a surface for wallpapering. However, in cases with strong differences, it is impossible to do without creating a sheathing.

In this case, it is proposed to consider the installation of a supporting structure directly from 25 mm. Its fastening must be carried out with self-tapping screws no less than 65 mm long. Small pieces of wood should be used as backing.

First, two corners are formed from two boards, which are installed along the edges of a particular wall. They are leveled using a level, after which they are fixed in a strictly vertical position. If necessary, wooden supports are used.

Wood is a natural remedy and of high quality building material. It creates excellent ecological housing construction projects.

But there are situations when the walls of wooden houses can have significant unevenness. In this case, you need to move away from originality a little, and level the walls.

The principles of such work can cover multiple ways. In modern conditions, there is a capacious material base to choose the appropriate material.

Wooden houses are being built using a variety of materials. With their help, the walls are prepared for finishing. Thanks to the use of various materials, the walls of a wooden house acquire an aesthetic appearance and create a comfortable atmosphere.

Immediately before leveling the log walls identify the most problematic areas and irregularities, as well as bending of corners and uneven joining of adjacent logs.

If there is already old decoration on the walls, it needs to be removed and clean the surface of any nails or old screws that might interfere with alignment with new materials.

To re-align the walls, necessary:

Treat the surface with antiseptic substances to prevent wood rotting, the appearance of fungi and insect pests;
When the antiseptic layer has dried, you need to apply it to the surface install chipboard boards. Alignment will be carried out to them;
As leveling materials drywall may be suitable. It can be attached directly to chipboard if the surface is flat. If the surface has slopes, it is best to use the frame method of attaching drywall, which consists of metal profiles;
When the installation of drywall is completed, You can proceed to putty work.

Walls are leveled with plywood without the use of building mixtures. The maximum that can be done is to cover the surface of the plywood with paints and varnishes to give it shine and an aesthetic appearance.

The advantage of plywood over plasterboard in strength and resistance to mechanical stress, but working with plasterboard is much simpler and easier.

Plywood is used as finishing material indoors country houses, in garages, outbuildings, in storage rooms. For fastening plywood it is necessary to mount the frame.

You need to use plywood thickness not less than 6 mm, maximum 9 mm. Using thinner sheets may cause them to warp. Thicker sheets must be mounted on a reinforced frame, which is expensive.

Indoors with high moisture you need to use plywood treated with an antiseptic. Using ordinary plywood in such places can soon lead to curvature of the surface.

To process plywood sheets, you need a special tool - a jigsaw, with which plywood is trimmed. It is attached to the frame with wood screws (if the frame is wooden) and metal (if the frame is metal).

A log house consists of a set and joining of wooden blanks of the same thickness and parameters. But there are cases when logs, under the influence of internal and external microclimates may shrink, losing the evenness of its styling.

Another reason for uneven walls in a log house may be foundation shrinkage. This can be avoided by using screw piles to strengthen the foundation.

Existing unevenness can be smoothed out two ways:

Frame method. You can use a wooden or metal frame. The space between frames can be filled mineral wool or other type of insulation. You can put sheets of plasterboard, wooden plywood, chipboard or OSB boards on the frame. It depends on the preferences of the owners and further finishing work;

In a frameless way. Drywall is not suitable for this because it is not durable. It is best to sheathe the wall with OSB boards. They are durable and can be puttied.

Also watch a useful video about leveling a wooden wall