We begin to figure out how to properly insulate the ceiling under cold roof and when is the best time to do it. Materials for insulation may be different. Everything will depend on technical characteristics materials, depending on the preferences of the homeowner.
The time has come when the bulk of housing is heated using gas equipment or electrical heat-generating components. Such heating appears even in country houses. But here, too, insulation material is provided. Rare owner in country house lights up the stove. This does not apply to fireplaces - such attributes will always be present in country houses!
In this article
Will we insulate ourselves?
Even before work begins, you should decide: who will carry out the insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof? If you have the slightest uncertainty, you should use the services of builders. If the property owner cannot complete the work themselves. Or has some doubts or uncertainty about his abilities. The companies have qualified personnel, they are familiar with the work first hand. They know how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof.
Every property owner is interested in the cost of heating their building. Costs can be reduced. To do this, you need to insulate the roof. How to reduce heat losses to almost 15%. You still have to pay for heating. Those who do not want to do this invest in thermal insulation. These are the laws of heat conservation in a building; you cannot do without them.
The owner faces many questions, for example, how to properly insulate an attic roof, if there is one? Sometimes the owner uses a pitched roof. The design of the roof depends on the purpose of the house and its under-roof space. The choice of roof shape and material for it depends on the design of the rafter frame and the presence or absence of a thermal insulation layer. In the construction of private houses, two types of roofs are used: warm and cold structures.
Warm roof
A type of roofing structure that provides for complete insulation of slopes. A warm roof is installed when the space located under the slopes is used as living space. This is an excellent option when equipping a residential attic. Having an insulated attic in your home is the dream of many.
This type of roof is erected for houses that are heated. And they are used as residential buildings all year round. Here there are no heat losses through the slopes. The installation of such a roof requires considerable expenses, which will go towards the cost of materials and installation work.
Cold roof
It is erected for buildings in which the attic is not used as a living space and is not heated in winter. Such structures do not have the usual structure when the roof is formed by layering materials. Either waterproofing or thermal insulation. This is the view rafter system, on which waterproofing and roofing material are laid.
The weight of the structure is light. Its cost is lower, installation work on the device is not complicated. But this is a practical solution for a country house building. Some say that it is not customary to insulate a cold roof.
Insulation of a cold roof
Works on proper insulation The roofs of a residential building are laborious. But only they, properly executed, will create a comfortable microclimate in the building. Experts know how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof. First, the attic is independently equipped into a living space.
They replace the old roofing with profiled decking or metal tiles. Condensation can form on a metal roof. This happens in autumn or spring with possible temperature changes.
There are a lot of materials on the market for thermal insulation, but not all of them are suitable for insulating a ceiling located under a cold roof. The thermal insulation layer must be resistant to moisture, have low thermal conductivity, and comply with safety standards. Do not negatively affect people's health. Yes, a lot still needs to be foreseen: what is needed for the work, how to properly insulate the roof of the house - the decision is up to the owner.
Materials
To prevent condensation, the roof of the house is insulated from the inside. This is done using suitable thermal insulation materials. The material chosen for the work must be vapor permeable. And save building construction and waterproofing from the outside. Moisture should not get on the thermal insulation layer. Water vapor must be removed from the attic or attic of the building.
It is best to use fibrous materials for thermal insulation. It can be mineral wool or basalt. These materials allow water vapor to pass through and reduce indoor humidity. These indicators distinguish the listed materials from polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam. But fiber insulation loses its properties in the presence of moisture. This causes them to become deformed over time.
Important: When performing installation work on insulating a structure, you must strictly follow the sequence of applying layers of the “pie” for insulation.
The complexity and duration of insulation depends on the characteristics of the insulation. Much depends on the cost of the insulation material. After all, cheap material must be laid in two layers. Working with two layers is more difficult and takes longer.
It’s easier to work with expensive analogues. They can be quickly secured, which is convenient. Working with polyurethane foam will not cause much trouble. This is important for sloping roofs. Only the cost of insulation in this case will be high.
Insulating the roof of a house from the inside
When equipped, the first layer on the inside will be decorative finishing. You can use plywood, drywall, and lining as it. It is necessary to provide a ventilation gap of two or three cm. It is designed for air circulation. And the next break will be the vapor-permeable membrane.
The thickness of the insulation must be sufficient for this purpose. Typically, for a roof, the thermal insulation layer should be at least ten cm. A vapor-permeable waterproofing film should be placed on the insulation.
Thermal insulation begins with laying a waterproofing film. Place it with a sag perpendicular to the rafters. It should be small. The joints on the material are taped. This is done so that there are no gaps. Then 50 mm thick bars are nailed onto the rafters and lathing made from wood boards is laid. If a finished roof is being insulated, then the waterproofing film is secured using a stapler. Place fastenings under the rafters and seal the joints of the film with tape.
Before work is carried out, the rafter system is treated with an antiseptic. Only after this can you work with thermal insulation. It is laid between the rafters at random. To perform rough filing, ordinary slats are used. Insulation mats must be placed in several layers. This is the only way to create the required thickness of insulation.
When laying, the joints of the top layer should completely overlap the bottom row of mats. That is, the bottom layer of insulation is laid with a shift or placed perpendicular to the first row of mats.
Then a vapor barrier film is placed. The smooth surface should be turned towards the insulation. The vapor barrier has a rough surface, so vapors are trapped here. For this reason, it is laid towards the room.
If the vapor barrier film is laid the other way around, it will not be able to remove moisture from the thermal insulation. In addition, an accumulation of condensation will appear on its surface. The film is also secured with a stapler, the joints are carefully taped.
Then blocks of wood or metallic profile. The casing is placed on it. There are cases when finishing of this room is not provided. Then the hemming of the rafters should be made from boards treated with antiseptics. Installing thermal insulation is a responsible procedure. It will allow the owner to save up to 25% of heat. If you install it on metal roofs, then there will be no ice formation on them, and condensation will not appear!
Roof insulation from the inside - best option carrying out work for several reasons.
Roof insulation is done only for residential attic spaces; due to this, heat losses are significantly reduced and living comfort is increased. Today, companies produce a wide range of insulation materials, all of which have both positive and negative sides. When choosing a specific insulation, it is important to know its features and take into account the characteristics of the building’s rafter system.
There are many names of materials for insulation, but they are all divided into two large groups.
Table. Roof insulation groups.
| Name of insulation | Operational and physical characteristics |
|---|---|
| This group includes mineral wool from basalt, glass wool from recycled glass and ecowool from recycled paper. Cotton wool insulation can be pressed in the form of mats of standard sizes or rolled. There are options for spraying liquid ecowool. In terms of thermal conductivity and weight, the listed types are almost the same from each other. Mineral wool is the most expensive. |
| Polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. All these insulation materials are made on the basis of the same polymer and differ in production technology and some additives. Most often they take the form of slabs of various thicknesses and sizes; they can differ significantly in terms of physical strength. Thermal conductivity is almost the same; minor fluctuations in practice have no effect. The price range is wide. Can be used in liquid form (sprayed) or as slabs. |
As an example, we will look at the two most common options for insulating a roof from the inside. The examples are not only budget-friendly, but also effective. The process is divided into several stages, from correct execution Each of them depends on the final quality of work.
Prices for foam plastic
Styrofoam
Inspection of the rafter system and roof covering
A very important stage of preparation for insulation. Inspect all elements of the roofing system, check the condition of the roof covering. If problems are discovered, they must be corrected immediately.
Measure the distance between rafter legs, this will help you navigate the choice of insulation. The fact is that all insulation has standard width dimensions. This simplifies and speeds up installation work and reduces waste. The width of the insulation is 60 cm, but, unfortunately, some manufacturers allow fluctuations in one direction or another by several centimeters. The distance between the rafter legs should be within 56–57 cm. In practice, it is rare to find such correct roofs.
See if a wind barrier is installed between the roof and the attic, and if it has vents for natural ventilation. This is very important in cases where insulation is planned to be done with mineral wool.
Prices for vapor barrier materials
Vapor barrier material
Selection and purchase of materials
The most commonly used materials for roof insulation are mineral wool and polystyrene foam; we will dwell on them in detail. If you have a simple gable roof, then its insulation is not very difficult technologically. The situation is completely different with a broken line or hipped roof. These structures have many different stops, purlins, ties and other elements that strengthen the rafter system. During insulation, you have to cut the mineral wool or foam plastic, make various folds and bends. As a result, the complexity of the work increases and the amount of waste increases.
But this is not all the problems. Complex roofs will never be able to be hermetically sealed with a vapor barrier layer; there will always be places through which moist air gets into the insulation. For mineral wool this is a very unpleasant phenomenon. Experienced builders recommend insulating complex roofs with foam plastic rather than taking risks with mineral wool. Wet cotton wool not only almost completely loses its heat-saving abilities, but also accelerates the putrefactive processes of wooden structures of the rafter system.
Roof insulation work
The technology of work largely depends on the chosen material, but for all cases there are general tips.
If you have the opportunity to work with an assistant, great, the insulation process will go much faster. There is no such possibility - no problem, all the work can be done independently.
A fully insulated house must have a roof that is thermally insulated from the inside. Roof insulation may also be needed if you would like to convert the attic into a separate floor and/or replace roof covering. Some coatings, such as metal tiles and corrugated sheets, can become covered with condensation and ice due to temperature changes, which over time leads to damage to the decking. Before insulating the roof of a house from the inside, it is necessary to protect it from moisture on both sides - install a waterproofing layer under the slate and a vapor barrier under the insulation. Some types of insulation do not require waterproofing, but they either cost more or are inferior in quality to classic insulation.
General form
How to properly insulate a roof so as not to damage your home and so that the roof lasts a long time? A simplified roof insulation scheme has three main layers:
- Wind and water repellent. It prevents moisture from getting on the insulation from outside and protects against adverse weather conditions.
- Thermal insulation. This is the insulation itself. It prevents heat from escaping from the room and protects against temperature changes.
- Vapor repellent. Prevents the collection or penetration of condensation that may form due to temperature differences under the insulation. Basically, a special film is used for this.
Before installation, it is recommended to erect a rafter system. This is the “skeleton” of the roof, on top of which a waterproofing layer and roofing are laid, and insulation and vapor barrier material are placed inside. Transverse and counter battens protect the structure from mechanical damage, and thanks to the presence of rafters, it becomes easier to install insulation.
Attention! If there is no need to insulate the attic itself, then only the attic floors can be insulated. This will be enough to prevent heat from the lower room from escaping through the ceiling. In this case, there is no need to disassemble the roof and purchase expensive insulation.
Materials
Proper selection of materials specifically for your case can not only extend the life of the attic space, but also significantly facilitate the installation process. On the market you can find materials of different quality and price categories. But you shouldn’t buy the cheapest or the most expensive - it’s better to proceed from price-quality considerations, and also look for options to suit your case. It is important that the selected material has low thermal conductivity, can withstand environmental changes, is environmentally friendly and durable.
A membrane or film coating is ideal for creating a waterproofing layer. In the first case, not only the most complete moisture insulation is ensured, but also ventilation through special membranes. However, their price is higher, so if you decide to use a regular film coating, it is recommended to think about creating small ventilation gaps and seams.
At the moment, manufacturers provide a large selection of roof insulation materials, which have different characteristics, pros and cons. When choosing, pay attention first of all to these characteristics:
- Degree of moisture absorption. It is advisable to choose the one with the lowest indicator. However, if you are confident in the quality of your moisture-repellent layer, then you can choose one with an average rating. The higher the indicator, the lower the price and the shorter the service life.
- Thermal conductivity level. It should also be as low as possible. Porous materials have the lowest level, but they have a higher degree of moisture absorption.
- Density. It should also be lower.
It is also advisable to pay attention to flammability, environmental friendliness, chemical and frost resistance.
There are two types of materials most common on the market.
Mineral and glass wool
They have low density, thermal conductivity and price, but they also absorb moisture better, last less and are more susceptible to fire and pests. Most suitable for insulating the roof from the inside with your own hands, because it is easier to install.
Expanded polystyrene
The characteristics may vary significantly depending on the brand. Basically, they are resistant to moisture, fire, many pests, and have an acceptable level of thermal conductivity. However, due to their high density, they are more easily susceptible to mechanical damage, which makes them more difficult to install. The cheapest options are also susceptible to rodent infestation.
Preparatory stage
How to properly insulate a roof so that it lasts longer? The preparation and installation process may vary depending on the type of roof. Let's look at the preparation using the example of insulating pitched roofs using roll materials. It is advisable to remove the roof, because... it will interfere with installation.
Check the attic for defects (cracks, mold, rot, inconsistencies, etc.) and eliminate them. If everything is “too neglected”, then it is recommended to completely rebuild the attic space, because... Even with good repair of defects, they will make themselves felt over time. Also, if any communications are laid through the roof, then they also need to be checked for damage and repaired.
Then install the support rails, on top of which the waterproofing layer and sheathing will be attached. They serve as support for the entire structure, so they must be strong enough. Because in most cases, the supports are made of wood; they also need to be treated with special materials to prevent moisture, fire and pests.
Waterproofing and sheathing
A moisture-proof film/membrane is stretched onto the outer part of the finished cornice, which should completely cover the roof area. In order for the film and insulation to serve for a long time, be sure to apply these tips:
- Lay the film only across.
- At the joints between the strips, you need to make an overlap of about one meter and tape it with tape so that moisture does not get through the micro-openings at the joints.
- Check the characteristics of the material for waterproofing and insulation with each other. They should match as closely as possible. It is best to select a waterproofing layer only after purchasing insulation.
- Try not to stretch the film too much, because... it may be damaged in the future due to temperature changes.
Next, a sheathing is erected from beams measuring 15 - 25 mm. The beams also need to be treated with moisture, fire, and pest repellents. It is best to fasten them using stainless steel screws. The roof is laid on top of the sheathing.
Installation of insulation and vapor barrier layers
We insulate the roof by installing insulation in the gaps between the support slats. Regardless of the type of insulation, the installation process is approximately the same. The material is measured and cut, after which it is attached. Basically, mounting foam, construction adhesive, screws or profiles are used for fastening (depending on the type). During installation, it is important that there are no gaps between the insulation and the supports; however, there should be a small space (no more than 30mm) between the roof and the insulation for ventilation.
After the roof has been insulated, a vapor barrier layer is stretched, which should lie almost flush against the insulation. Attached to construction boards using special brackets. In this case, the film can be pulled tighter, because It is not in danger of severe temperature changes if you have selected high-quality insulation.
As a final step, the film is overlaid with wooden frame, on top of which finishing material can be mounted. Frame requirements depend on the characteristics finishing material.
Conclusion
To properly insulate your roof from the inside with your own hands, use these tips:
- If you work with mineral insulation, pay special attention to protection from moisture.
- If there is a large distance between the beams in the rafter system, the insulation is additionally secured with wire.
- There is no need to apply several layers of insulation (1-2 are enough).
- Some ventilation gaps should not be blocked by insulation, but they need to be monitored.
It is quite possible to insulate the roof yourself, but if you are not sure that you can do it, then it is better to outsource the work to a professional team of builders. They will select high-quality insulation and waterproofing layers for the roof based on your wishes and carry out installation.
Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to create an additional room in the attic, but also to maximize heat retention throughout the entire house.
If the building has an attic roof, then insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only the roof for the future room, but also the walls. If the structure has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is installed in the attic floor.
The third option for thermal insulation measures is used in regions with harsh climates, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.
Types of insulation used
The modern building materials market offers quite a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose the one suitable for any thermal insulation work.
- Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or pine needles. These insulation materials are used for filling into the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.
- Mineral wool of various types, polystyrene foam, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.
All these materials are quite light, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the entire house, but will make it much warmer. Technologies for installing thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.
It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and preserving its performance qualities, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.
Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation
Prices for mineral wool
Mineral wool
Vapor barrier coatings
One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensation. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the wood, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.
The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof or ceiling structure before laying insulation materials.
When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.
To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing when it is insulated. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.
The protective film can have different thicknesses and be different types- a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. If the latter is used on an attic floor structure, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps create a tight seal.
Prices for various types of insulating films
Insulating films
Insulation of the attic floor
Any insulation measures are best carried out during the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.
Before filling or laying insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if fine-grained expanded clay and sawdust slag are used.
- Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the wooden attic floor was prepared as follows:
— The boards attached to the floor beams were carefully coated with a solution of clay or lime having a medium-thick consistency. These natural materials create good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time allow the entire structure to “breathe”.
— After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They were poured between the beams onto prepared boards.
It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.
- In modern construction, a special vapor barrier film is mainly used for flooring under insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of the attic, overlapping by 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and secured to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.
The film will become an additional barrier to the escape of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air rising, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.
- Next, insulation material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use previously used insulation - slag or sawdust.
- To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges through wooden beams, a layer of thin insulation must also be attached to them.
- Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulating material, just as before - overlapping. This layer of film is secured to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter slats.
- A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.
Sometimes a vapor barrier can be fixed from the inside of the room to a wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, with plasterboard boards. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.
Insulation of roof slopes
When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, use mineral wool and polystyrene foam, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.
If you still decide to use polystyrene foam, it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, and this is very important for wooden structures.
To insulate roof slopes, different systems are used, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.
1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation “pie”. It is used in the construction of roofs and roof coverings.
- It is laid on the rafter system. Typically, high-density polyethylene (more than 200 microns thick) is used for this layer - it will protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and secured to the rafters using staples and a stapler.
- A counter-batten with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on top of the film on each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
- Further, if the roof slopes are covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter slats. In the case when slate or other hard material is used sheet material, instead of plywood, a sheathing is installed, the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
- When the sheathing is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.
After this, you can move on to insulation measures, which are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.
- Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have a thickness the same as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, approximately 10 ÷ 15 mm.
- The laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.
The last stage is decorative finishing of the walls of the attic room - Further, if the attic space is to be equipped as a living room, then the entire surface is covered with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors, that is, the attic floor, are also insulated.
2. Another option could be a thicker insulating “pie”, which is also installed immediately when installing the roof.
- In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
- A sheathing for roofing material is placed on top of it.
- Next, from the attic side, the first one is laid between the rafters. a layer of insulation that must have equal to the width of the rafters.
- Then transverse slats are placed on the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, thinner insulation is used. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the padded cross slats.
- After this comes a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the slats with brackets.
- The interior finishing material is then attached to the slats.
If the roof is insulated in an already built house where the roofing covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is secured to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Next, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous options.
Roof insulation from the inside with polyurethane foam
Insulation with polyurethane foam proceeds differently than with bulk materials or mats of mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
This method of thermal insulation has recently become increasingly popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and the attic, which will later become an additional room.
If the attic is ventilated and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the wet surface between the beams. After it foams, increases in volume and hardens, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and seals them hermetically.
If the height of the attic allows you to build a room in it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to the ceiling with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.
Spraying begins from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and hardening, will serve as support for the next upper layers applied.
A similar or attic creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.
This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other insulation materials:
- The polyurethane foam coating has no joints or seams throughout the entire insulated area.
- A significant reduction in temperature changes in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
- The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
- This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
- When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it gets extra rigidity and strength, as for the roofing coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to significant weighting of the roof.
- Convenience application - foam covers all hard-to-reach areas of the roof and ceiling, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
- Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
- Foam not only provides excellent thermal insulation for rooms, but also insulates well from extraneous noise from the outside.
- Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
- The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
- The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body or unpleasant odors.
The “disadvantages” of sprayed insulation include the following factors:
- The material is toxic when applied, so you need to work with protective equipment.
Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory skin, eye and respiratory protection. - Polyurethane foam is susceptible to the negative effects of ultraviolet rays, so after applying insulation it must be covered with finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
- For installation work on insulation with polyurethane foam, you must have special, expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.
Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside
Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, so this process should not be postponed “for later”, but thermal insulation work should be carried out at the stage of building the house. With the exception of the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, following the work technology. If you enlist the help of a friend, roof insulation can easily be completed in a few days.
When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, following the technology.
It has long been established through experience and calculations that heat losses occur through every element of a house’s structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of the heat is lost through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning is wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of your home, you can save on heating for all subsequent years.
It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year can perform three functions:
— in winter it keeps the house warm;
- in summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means the house will be cool;
— in addition, insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.
Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.
You may be interested in information about how liquid insulation is produced
Types of insulation for roof structures
The choice of insulation must also be made with knowledge of the matter, taking into account technical and performance characteristics material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Increased moisture resistance.
- Low flammability.
- Environmental cleanliness.
- Durability of the material.
The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:
- Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
- Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
- Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic).
- Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
- Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).
In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves were traditionally used. Some builders still use these insulation materials today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.
All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, so they will slightly add weight to the rafter and ceiling structure.
This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:
| Material parameters | Materials | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg/m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 25-35 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K) | Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 0.037 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 0.027 | ||||||||
| Weight 1 m², kg | Mineral wool | 15.2 | 15.8 | 17.6 | 20.9 | 23.2 | 26.7 | 32.4 | 38.2 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 9.8 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12.3 | 13.5 | 14.8 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 11.2 | 11.7 | 12.8 | 13.9 | 15 | 16.6 | 19.3 | 22 | |
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is most often used to insulate roof structures, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in its parameters for thermal insulation of attic spaces in a wooden house.
One of the most convenient materials is mineral wool.
Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its types:
- Slag wool is produced from blast furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick and 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating an attic, so don’t be fooled by its low cost, since the insulation will have to be done again in a couple of years.
Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture well and, once saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation can withstand temperatures of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.
The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you will notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and brittle. Therefore, it is best not to use this type of mineral wool for residential premises.
- Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The random arrangement of fibers promotes airiness and improves the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.
Improved modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.
Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also suitable for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated an attic version of the under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.
Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and brittle, they easily penetrate the fabric and can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a suit made of thick fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.
- Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W/m×°K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.
To Work with stone wool much simpler, since its fibers are not so brittle and thorny, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, length from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.
Prices for basalt wool
basalt wool
In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment well.
All types of mineral wool for insulating surfaces are produced in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today in construction stores you can find foil material, which is more effective for insulation, since foil reflects and retains heat indoors.
The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binding substance, which is often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.
You might be interested in information about what it is
Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using polystyrene foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.
Plates of ordinary polystyrene foam - polystyrene foam (left), and extruded
Polystyrene foam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W/(m×°K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.
Moisture absorption ordinary polystyrene foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.
Prices for expanded polystyrene
expanded polystyrene
The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.
Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and protect the house as much as possible from possible emergency situations. Special attention it will be necessary to pay attention to reliable insulation of the wiring and correct installation chimney channels (pipes).
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can be quite thick. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. Hardening and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W/(m×°K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of material. This means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.
Sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in adjusting the finished coating to the level of the rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.
By using this material, you can avoid waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it copes well with the whole range of problems, without retaining steam or allowing moisture to enter the room.
Polyurethane foam can be sprayed onto any surface: horizontal, vertical or inclined, as it has high adhesion to all building materials.
Ecowool
Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying this material can be done in a “dry” or “wet” way.
Environmentally friendly material - ecowool
- In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. It will not be possible to install it on walls and roof structures using this method.
- For the “wet” installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives and then distributed under pressure using a pipe onto the floors and walls.
“Wet” laying of ecowool
- Another option for insulating ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after attaching finishing material to them, for example, plasterboard or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and these include the following:
- This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
- Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
- If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulating layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
- Installation of insulation is carried out quite quickly.
- Ecowool has a long service life without losing its original thermal insulation qualities.
- Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore it has very low flammability and a tendency to self-extinguish. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
- Ecowool applied to any surface forms a seamless, hermetic coating of the required thickness.
- The insulation is a “breathable” material, so it does not retain moisture.
- The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.
The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly pure materials- ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K) | 0,016-0,018 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg/m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of connection to the structure | Depending on the faction: | Tight fit, seals all cracks and cracks well |
| - 15-20 mm - presence of voids; | ||
| - 5-10 mm - tight fit. | ||
| Linear shrinkage | absent | |
| Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h | 0.3 | 0.67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| Flammability | incombustible | G1-G2 (lowly flammable material, because it is treated with fire retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system is made of expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but pouring it between the floor beams onto previously prepared surfaces will not be difficult.
This material is made from specially prepared clay that undergoes high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements measuring 20 ÷ 30 mm.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg/m³ | Total density of material, kg/m³ | Compressive strength MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - 4 | 400 | 800 - 1200 | 2,0 - 3,0 |
| 4 - 10 | 335 - 350 | 550 - 800 | 1,2 - 1,4 |
| 10 - 30 | 200 - 250 | 450 - 650 | 0,9 - 1,1 |
Prices for expanded clay
expanded clay
Advantages of this material:
- Ecological cleanliness. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not release toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
- The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
- For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
- Expanded clay is a non-flammable material, which is a very important quality for a wooden structure. This insulation insulates chimney pipes from wooden floors, pouring it into a box built around them.
- Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is located on a suburban area, then mice may well live in it even in the attic, and some insulation materials create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!
You might be interested in information about what it is
Auxiliary materials
In addition to thermal insulation materials, the insulating “pie” uses waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier films.
- Waterproofing is necessary to protect insulation against condensation, which can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from getting from the air directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.
This membrane must have steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
If insulation is carried out in an already assembled structure and there are no plans to change the roofing material, under which there should be a waterproofing membrane, then for insulation you will have to use sprayed polyurethane foam - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed onto on a reliable base made of boards or directly onto the roofing.
- When thermally insulating roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the attic side. Vapor barrier is intended to protect thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the rafter system from moisture penetration from the inside.
As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as an unpleasant odor, which over time will spread into living rooms.
If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be secured under the wall finishing.
When insulating the floor, a vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it should retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the thermal insulation layer.
The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected into the attic or towards the living rooms and does not escape outside. The canvases are glued together with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.
If you want to save money, you can use old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the cracks between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the ceiling, but will also protect the wood from pests, and will also allow the insulating layers to “breathe”.
When the lime or clay has dried well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses For a long time, they were insulated with sawdust - for this purpose they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and placed between the floor beams.
This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very labor-intensive and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.
Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.
How to calculate the required insulation thickness?
It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create indoors comfortable conditions, to avoid overpaying for excess material.
Rasche T t of the required insulation thickness is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003 " Thermal protection of buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings" They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some acceptable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:
δth= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut
Let’s begin to understand the quantities available in the formula:
- δth– this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
- R– required table value of thermal resistance (m²×° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a properly designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room of +19°. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the meaning R for walls, ceilings and coverings.
When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coverings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for the floors”.
- δ nand λn— the thickness of the material layer and its thermal conductivity coefficient.
The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each layer, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing “pie” will consist of a continuous sheathing of plywood over rafters with a roofing material covering on top. Below there is a layer of insulation that has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be lined with natural wooden lining. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing felt.
Important - only those outer layers that fit tightly to each other are counted. For example, flat slate can be taken into account, but wavy slate cannot. If the roof design involves a ventilated roof, then all layers located above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.
Where to get the values? Measure the thickness of each layer ( δ n) – it won't be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:
| Estimated thermal performance indicators of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in dry state, kg/m3 | Calculated coefficients under various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - thermal conductivity coefficient (W/(m°C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa) | ||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 28 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 33 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 35 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Same | 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| PVC1 and PV1 foam plastic | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Same | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Perlite plastic concrete | 200 | 2 | 3 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.008 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 3 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.008 |
| Thermal insulation products made from foamed synthetic rubber "Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Same. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Stitched mineral wool mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats with synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Same | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs with synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Same | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Same | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Same | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with an organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs with starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber boards with synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| URSA glass staple fiber mats | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Same | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Same | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| URSA glass staple fiber boards | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Same | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Plates from natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Wood fiber and particle boards | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Same | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Same | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs based on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Same | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Gypsum slabs | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Same | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Gypsum cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Same | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfills | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Same | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Same | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Same | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Same | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Same | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Same | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| D. Wood, products made from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Cardboard facing | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Multilayer construction cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Same | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products made from expanded perlite with a bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Same | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
Please note that there are two values given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B. These modes provide for specific humidity conditions - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.
To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone - wet, normal or dry - using the diagram map.
Then, by comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which select the value λ n.
| Room humidity conditions | Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zone (according to the schematic map) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry zone | Normal zone | Wet area | |
| Dry | A | A | B |
| Normal | A | B | B |
| Damp or Wet | B | B | B |
- λut – thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.
Now, having written out the thickness and thermal conductivity coefficient for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!
To make the task easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides calculations for three layers (not counting insulation). If the number of layers is less, then simply leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.