Insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool. How to properly insulate walls. How to work with stone wool Precautions when working with stone wool

Insulation of housing is a pressing problem of our time. Not only in new buildings, but also in the old housing stock, people are trying to reduce heating costs. Continuously rising energy prices put significant pressure on the family budget, widening the gap between income and expenses.

Having qualitatively insulated your house or apartment, we will ensure comfort for ourselves and our loved ones. The amount on the virtual "counter" of savings after this work will grow every year.

The only question that needs to be answered correctly is what material to use to keep the heat in your home? Answering it, we will consider stone wool and evaluate its advantages and disadvantages.

What is stone wool made from?

This material is made from basalt - a rock of volcanic origin. In order to obtain soft fiber from hard stone, it is melted. After this, the hot mass is divided into fibers using various technologies(blowing, windrowing, spunbond and centrifugal drawing).

The resulting semi-finished product has one significant drawback: the basalt fibers crumble, it is impossible to form a single array from them. Therefore, in the next step, an adhesive is introduced into the fiber.

Most often, phenol-formaldehyde resin is used in this capacity. It connects the fibers together, allowing you to form a carpet of the desired thickness. Further, the material is given water-repellent properties by treating it with mineral oil. The last operations are cutting the insulation and packaging it.

It should be noted that the term stone wool is not often used in the construction market. The names more familiar to the mass buyer are mineral wool and basalt wool. To avoid confusion, it should be remembered that we are talking about the same material obtained from basalt rock.

One more note: basalt mineral wool should not be confused with glass wool and slag wool. The first type of insulation is obtained from molten glass. The raw material for the second is blast furnace slag. Today, mineral wool has practically supplanted its closest competitors. Glass wool is noticeably inferior to it in terms of environmental friendliness. The quality of slag wool is low, so the demand for it has fallen.

Properties, types and characteristics of stone wool

Staying true to your essence natural stone, basalt wool has acquired the best qualities of a heater. From the rock, she inherited resistance to fire and high temperature. This material is not afraid aggressive influence acids The oil treatment made it impervious to moisture.

The fibrous structure provided the material with excellent heat and sound insulation properties and good vapor permeability - a very important characteristic of any insulation.

Speaking about stone wool insulation, many argue about the environmental friendliness of this material. The reason for concern is the phenol-formaldehyde resin that is part of it and glues the fibers together. However, upon closer examination, doubts dissipate.

The mass fraction of glue in this insulation does not exceed 3%. Studies conducted by sanitary control authorities have confirmed the safety of mineral wool for health.

The main guideline for the consumer in the matter of environmental friendliness is the products of certified manufacturers who strictly observe raw material proportions and technology.

The main characteristic of insulation is density. Its heat-insulating ability is directly related to it. In addition, density is essential during installation.

According to this indicator, the material is divided into three categories:

• soft (roll and plate) - 10-50 kg / m3;
• semi-rigid (plate) - 60-80 kg / m3;
• hard (slab) – 90-175 kg/m3.

To classify insulation boards, alphanumeric “brand” designations are used. The letters indicate the degree of rigidity (soft - PM, semi-rigid - PP, hard pancreas). The numbers indicate the density (kg/m3). The most common brands are PM-40, PM-50, PP-70, PP-80, PZh 100, PZh-120.

The main characteristics of TechnoNIKOL Rocklight basalt slabs are a popular universal material for private construction.

Soft rolled wool (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 W / m * C) is used for insulation of interfloor ceilings, frame partitions, pipelines.

A semi-rigid board (0.039 W / m * C) is placed in multilayer sandwich panels, mounted on ceilings, ventilated facades and roofs.

Rigid insulation (0.046 W / m * C) is used where the surface experiences mechanical stress (floors, flat exploited roofs, foundations, underground pipelines).

Basalt wool has good sound-absorbing qualities. Its fibrous structure actively dampens acoustic air vibrations, reducing the noise level in the room. It is used as sound insulation in internal frame partitions. For external cladding of facades, it performs the functions of heat and sound insulation.

The sound absorption coefficient of the material ranges from 0.87 to 0.95. When purchasing, pay attention to it. The higher its value, the better material turns off the sound.

Mineral wool does not have a single classification based on geometric dimensions. Each manufacturer offers its own “line” of insulation. Different brands only have the same thickness of material - 50, 100, 150 and 200 mm.

Three types of stone wool are produced: rolled, in slabs and shaped (in the form of a round shell for insulating pipelines). To increase heat-reflecting qualities and protection from external influences, rolled mineral wool is used, onto the surface of which a layer of metal foil is glued.

Length roll material can be from 3 to 50 meters, with a width from 0.6 to 1.5 m. The slab (semi-rigid and rigid) is produced in widths from 60 to 120 cm and lengths from 120 to 150 cm.

There is also no strict gradation in terms of vapor permeability level. This indicator is indicated in the certificate and can take a value from 0.3 to 0.55 mg/m hPa. The higher it is, the better the material allows water vapor to pass through.

By degree fire safety basalt wool belongs to the category of non-combustible materials (NG), withstanding direct heating up to a temperature of +1100 C.

Advantages and disadvantages of stone wool

Having considered the main characteristics of this material, we can draw conclusions about its advantages and disadvantages.

The positive qualities of mineral wool include:

• High thermal insulation ability;
• Good vapor transmission;
• Fire safety;
• Biostability;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Durability;
• Easy to install.

The main disadvantage of basalt wool appears at the installation stage. When working with it, dust is formed, consisting of small particles of stone fibers. They enter the respiratory system, causing coughing and irritation. Eliminating the damage caused by dust is not difficult. To do this, you should use standard personal protective equipment (masks or respirators). Also, negative factors include the considerable cost of the material.

Installation rules

Most often, mineral wool is used for external insulation of walls, attic floors and roofs. For thermal insulation of the foundation, foam plastic is better suited - an inexpensive and fairly rigid material that does not allow water to pass through.

Failure to comply with technology is costly!

Stone wool for the facade of a wooden house is installed after treating the walls with an antiseptic, which protects them from rotting. Before insulation, the surface of foam concrete and brick is cleaned of old paint and peeling plaster. The work of installing insulation is best done during the warm season on dry walls.

All window sills and door trims must be removed before installation. Since the thickness of the walls will increase after covering with mineral wool, you will have to buy new elements of window and door cladding.

Dry installation of insulation into the frame

There are two ways to insulate with stone wool: dry and “wet”. The first involves the use of a wooden or steel frame (lathing), in the cells of which insulation is placed. In the second method, the slabs are attached to walls without a frame using glue and disc dowels.

"Wet" installation option

It should be noted that installation in a frame is most often used when constructing a ventilated facade. The lathing allows you to create a gap between the insulation and the outer cladding (4-6 cm), through which water vapor is released into the atmosphere.

The disc dowel is used for both dry and “wet” installation

Mineral wool is placed on glue and dowels in cases where a finishing layer (plaster, putty) will be applied to its surface.

Dry installation technology (ventilated facade)

When mounting the frame, its slats are placed so that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the slab or roll of basalt wool. In this way, a tight installation is achieved. Work on installing the sheathing begins from the corners of the building, using a level and a cord to install the guides in the same plane.

The roll is rolled out from top to bottom. The slabs, on the contrary, are placed from bottom to top. Having filled all the rows of the sheathing with insulation, a vapor barrier film is fixed to it, which performs the function of wind protection. The joints of the film sheets are glued with construction tape. After this, holes are drilled in the wall and plastic dowels are hammered into them, securing the mineral wool and the wind barrier.

The next operation is to attach counter-battens (second sheathing) to the frame, creating a ventilated gap between the insulation and the outer cladding of the facade.

Design for dry wall insulation (ventilated façade)

The general rule for installing mineral wool slabs is to prevent the joints of the insulation from matching the corners of door and window openings.

Basalt slabs can be installed in one or two layers. It all depends on the chosen thickness of insulation.

Some manuals suggest two-layer installation as a way to protect joints from blowing. In this case, the slabs are mounted so that the upper ones cover the joints between the lower ones. With this option, the sheathing has to be placed in two rows, perpendicular to one another.

With two-layer installation, maximum tightness of insulation is achieved

Wet installation method

With this option, the main role is played by the glue that fixes the mineral wool slabs to the wall. It must have good vapor transmission so that condensation does not accumulate in the insulation. Be sure to take this point into account when purchasing. The market offers special adhesive compositions designed to work with stone wool.

The sequence of work using the wet method is visible in the figure.

Design for insulating walls with basalt wool and adhesive mortar

The installation of the slabs begins after installing the starting profile, which covers the slabs from below and prevents them from sliding until the adhesive composition sets.

A layer of glue is evenly distributed over the slab with a notched trowel and then pressed against the wall. Having installed a horizontal row, the insulation is additionally fixed with plastic disc-shaped dowels.

After finishing the wall cladding, a layer of glue is also applied to the surface of the material and a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is embedded in it. Having leveled the surface with the rule, the solution is allowed to dry. The final operation is plastering.

Manufacturers and prices

In recent years, a whole “clip” of high-quality stone wool manufacturers has formed on the market. These are foreign brands Isover(Izover), Rockwool(Rockwool), Paroc(Parok). A domestic company competes with them on equal terms TechnoNIKOL. The products of the Russian company have also earned a good reputation Izovol(Izovol).

Their range of products covers all areas of insulation, from the basement to the roof.

For a correct comparison, consider the price for 1m2 of universal-purpose heaters 10 cm thick, offered by different companies:

• Rockwool LIGHT BUTTS SCANDIC(37 kg/m3) 170-190 rub./m2;
• Isover MASTER OF WARM WALLS(38-48 kg/m3) 160-200 rub./m2;
• Paroc EXTRA(30-34 kg/m3) from 200/m2;
• TechnoNIKOL ROCKLIGHT(30-40 kg/m3) from 160/m2;
• Izovol L-35(35 kg/m3) from 160/m2.

To protect against small particles, it is better to work with mineral wool wearing gloves and a respirator.

In this article we will not touch on the advantages and disadvantages of the popular insulation, which is called mineral wool. Many articles have been written on this subject on the Internet, but not everyone writes how to work with mineral wool, and if they do, then in passing. Even many scientific works have been written about the harm that this building material causes to human health, so the question: how to work with mineral wool, while maintaining your health, is far from idle. And to understand it, you first need to know the composition of this material. And here it is worth recalling that mineral wool has three types: glass wool ,slag And stone wool .

During production glass wool the same material is used as for the production of glass, as well as waste from the glass industry. If we take into account that limestone, sand, borax, soda and dolomite are used as raw materials for the production of glass wool, then the content of cullet in the structure of the material reaches up to 80%. When working with glassy the fragility of the fibers is formed in the form of small sharp and small particles fall on the human body, in the respiratory organs and eyes. Therefore, when working with glass wool, it is imperative to use protective equipment such as a respirator, goggles, tight gloves, clothing that covers all parts of the body. If, for any reason, you have not saved yourself from adhering to the following rules:

• If dust gets onto an open area of ​​the body, there is no need to itch. Because by doing so you will drive small particles further into the body.
• Using caution, you need to shake off the glass wool. Moreover, if you are indoors, you need to do this over a dry bath, and if you are outdoors, shake it off in the direction of the wind.
• Take a cool shower, but never hot, without using a washcloth, soap or various sponges.
• After a shower, do not dry yourself with a towel; wait until you dry.
• If glass wool gets into your eyes, try to rinse them cold water. If nothing helps and there is pain in the eyes, consult a doctor. If your eye condition is critical, you should immediately call an ambulance.
• The same applies to the respiratory tract. If after working with glass wool you have a persistent cough, difficulty breathing or other problems, go to the doctor.
• It is best to immediately throw away the clothes you worked in. No matter how much you shake it out and wash it, glass wool particles will still remain in it.

cutting knife mineral wool

Slagovat produced from blast furnace slag waste from iron smelting. If you compare slag wool with glass wool, both contain brittle fibers with the only difference being that in glass wool they have the nature of glass, and in slag wool they have the nature of slag. Which ultimately makes the latter no less harmful than the former.

The same applies to stone wool, or as it is also called basalt wool, because it is made by melting basalt when heated to 1500 º C. Here the role of sharp and small fibers falls on frozen basalt threads. Among other things, slag and stone wool contain phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are also very harmful to health. Therefore, all the precautions inherent in working with glass wool apply to both stone and slag wool.

All types of mineral wool are used to insulate the facades of buildings, but in no case should this material be used to insulate walls and ceilings indoors.

From personal experience I can add the following:

a) cutting mineral wool is most convenient with a sharp knife with a long blade;
b) it is advisable to work with mineral wool together, because this makes it easier to handle it carefully;
c) cover the cotton wool fixed to the wall with a protective plastic film, and only then attach it, or something else.

Wall insulation is a mandatory stage in the construction of any house. Whether the home will be warm and comfortable enough depends on what kind of thermal insulation material is used and how correctly the technology for its installation is followed.

It is best to insulate the walls of residential and public buildings from the outside. Mineral wool is often used for external thermal insulation. This is an affordable and easy-to-install insulation. Therefore, if you know the technology, it is possible to insulate the walls outside with mineral wool yourself.

Advantages of external wall insulation

There are several reasons for insulating the external walls of a house:

• complete protection of load-bearing structures from negative atmospheric influences;
• maintaining the dimensions of the internal area of ​​the building;
• maintaining high-quality ventilation of premises;
• reduction in heating costs.

Insulation properties

Mineral wool is a material made from natural basalt and silica, treated with compounds with water-repellent properties. It is produced in the form of mats, slabs, and rolls. Depending on the location of the fibers, mineral wool and lamella slabs are distinguished.

Mineral wool is used for wall insulation, the density of which lies in the range of 75-150 kg / m. cube The first layer (it is possible without preliminary surface preparation) is fixed with a material whose density is 75 kg / m. cube The slabs completely fill the unevenness of brick, concrete and wooden walls. With the help of mineral wool with a higher density, laid in the second layer, a more even surface is formed, which greatly facilitates subsequent finishing work (so-called wet facades). The thickness of the material ranges from 20 to 200 mm.

Advantages

The undoubted advantages of this insulation include the following:

• excellent heat and sound insulation;
• high-quality filling of voids;
• fire resistance, ability to withstand high temperatures;
• possibility of use in different temperature conditions;
• ease of installation.

Mineral wool is suitable for warming both external and internal walls of frame, wooden, brick houses.

Flaws

There are also disadvantages to using mineral wool insulation. They emit formaldehyde, which is hazardous to human health. But according to many experts, the amount of these substances is negligible and does not cause any harm to humans.

All installation work for insulation of the house outside, it can be done at a relative humidity of no more than 85%. You cannot work with mineral wool in rainy or foggy weather. At temperatures above +30°C, external insulation is also stopped, and the treated area is covered with a dark-colored heat-insulating fabric. Otherwise, the mineral wool will crack later.

Thermal insulation process

Wall insulation with mineral wool is a job that you can do with your own hands, even without experience in the construction business.

The design of an ideal warm wall is a heater fixed on a load-bearing wall and covered with facing brickwork.

It is better to insulate a building during its construction. To do this you need to do the following:

1. overlay the facade around the entire perimeter with mineral wool boards of the required thickness, fix them with fixing anchors; for example, for the Central region of Russia, slabs with a thickness of 140-150 mm are sufficient;
2. form brickwork on top of the insulation layer;
3. rub the seams with a solution of cement or plaster.

If the house has already been built and you need to insulate it, the technology of this process will be somewhat different. First prepare the surface. To do this you need:

• free the facade from unnecessary objects, the surface should become clean and even;
• do not leave metal objects, they will begin to rust;
• remove old coating (plaster, paint), dust, dirt.

A clean base and installation done correctly are the key to high-quality insulation.

Thermal protection device for a wooden house

Insulating walls with mineral wool slabs is a whole complex of works. Several main stages can be distinguished.

Preparing the base

At this stage, wooden surfaces are treated with special emulsions and primers that will protect the house from mold and rot.

The antiseptic must dry completely.

Creating a vapor barrier layer

Its purpose is to provide the entire structure with ventilation. To do this you will need polyethylene, roofing felt or aluminum foil.

• narrow slats are placed vertically on the walls in increments of 1 m;
• the vapor barrier is secured with staples or nails; the fastening points are sealed with tape;
• holes with a diameter of 20 mm are drilled at the bottom and top of the slats; this will provide the necessary ventilation.

Frame making

To do this, boards are vertically stuffed (40-50 mm cross-section, 100 mm wide) or metal profiles are attached.

They are installed at intervals slightly smaller than the width of the mineral wool.

Installation of thermal insulation

Mineral wool is laid in two layers, shifting the slab slightly so that the joints do not coincide. This type of insulation does not require additional fastening, since it is very elastic.

Often this material is fixed using a special glue (choose in the store the one that says “for mineral wool”).

Laying waterproofing

To protect the insulation from getting wet, attach it to the sheathing with staples or nails. waterproofing material. Thanks to this, mineral wool will retain its properties longer and the service life of the heat-insulating layer will increase.

The final stage

On top of the waterproofing, slats with a cross section of 30 mm are stuffed. Thus, a ventilation gap is formed, which will contribute to the evaporation of moisture. Then the house cladding is installed on the sheathing.

It must be taken into account that the total thickness of the insulation must be at least 100 mm. Also, do not forget to treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic and flame retardants.

Installation of insulation for a frame structure

The technology of warming a frame house is generally similar to the process of warming wooden houses described above.

On the interior walls, chipboard is attached to the frame. They are joined along the beams and beams of the strapping. Then the vapor barrier is fixed and drywall or lining is installed.

Installation of mineral wool

Mineral wool slabs are laid on external wall surfaces. The number of layers depends on the region in which the house is located. The joints of the previous layer are covered with the next row of insulation. First, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to fix the galvanized cornice with dowels: it will help the insulation boards lie flat and protect the building from rodents and insects.

After the heat insulator is laid, it is covered with a membrane to protect it from the wind, and attached with a stapler.

You can fix the mineral wool on the wall using a special adhesive solution. It is applied to the back side of the mat, slab or roll, which are then applied from the bottom up, easily pressing against the wall.

You can attach the heat insulator with dowel-nails “umbrellas”. It is necessary to control that the material does not move apart when punched. Its surface is smoothed with sanding brushes. A primer mixture is applied to the mineral wool mats or slabs.

Creating an air gap and finishing

The sheathing will help retain the heat insulation layer. It will also create a ventilation gap between the windproof membrane and the outer skin. Chipboard is installed on the sheathing. Then the cladding (for example, siding or lining) is installed.

Thus, mineral wool slabs placed between the frame posts will be sewn between the chipboard slabs from the outside and from the inside.

Production of thermal insulation for a brick building

The process of insulating a brick house with mineral wool is similar to that described above. The creation of a ventilated facade begins with the manufacture of battens on the load-bearing wall. The insulation is fixed on it. A windproof membrane is laid on top and secured. You also need to install ventilation ducts measuring 4-6 mm. All this is covered from above with the selected finishing material.

Wall insulation with mineral wool of frame, wooden, brick houses is a simple process. If you purchase the simplest tools and the necessary building materials, then 2-3 people are able to properly insulate a medium-sized house in one day.

Stone wool, one of the varieties of mineral wool, is perfect for insulating a house and any room in it. With the help of our advice, you can choose the right material, make high-quality installation and take care of its long service life.

Stone wool: what is it made from?

Cotton wool is made from rocks of basalt, marl or metamorphic origin. Basalt rocks are considered the best component. However, the quality will be determined by the acidity, which must be controlled by carbonate additives. The higher the acidity, the stronger and more durable the cotton wool.

Stone wool insulation: what is it made of? Stone wool also contains a binder that holds the fibers together. The most well-known substances are synthetic. They contain phenol-formaldehyde resins and various impurities that make the material waterproof.

In modern production, stone insulation is made from a special component - “Pele's hair”, or glass fiber. The technology of stone wool for its production consists of a number of stages, the main of which is the separation of the rock into fibers.

Characteristics and indicators of stone wool

The material has several important properties that are indispensable for repairs or construction.

• Thermal insulation. Insulating walls with stone wool is an excellent way to protect yourself from the cold in winter and from the heat in summer. The temperature in the room will be constantly regulated. The effectiveness of this property depends on the components in the composition. It turned out that stone wool for wall insulation is the right solution.
• Does not ignite. Even at temperatures above 1000˚C, stone wool does not ignite. Therefore, it is a safe material and, moreover, protects other flammable parts of the house, preventing the spread of fire. Although binders evaporate already at 200˚C.
• Permanent form. Thanks to this characteristic, cotton wool can withstand mechanical stress. This allows you to use stone wool for floors that are constantly under load. Efficiency depends on the binder chosen.
• Soundproofing. It will provide simple protection from street or neighbor noise, since fibers interfere with the propagation of sounds.
• Waterproof. Excess moisture in the room comes out without getting into the cotton wool. This property helps maintain optimal humidity. And no matter how humid the air is, stone wool always remains dry, and mold and other nasty things do not grow on it.
• Environmental friendliness. During production and operation, the environment is not subject to negative influence.

Advantages and disadvantages

Mineral wool for insulation has the following advantages:

• Non-flammable;
• Waterproof;
• Stone wool - insulation for walls - has a wide operating temperature range;
• Eco-friendly;
• Safe during installation and operation;
• Good heat and sound insulation;
• It is easier to insulate anything with stone wool than with other materials.

Flaws:

• Insulating walls with cotton wool is a costly undertaking. Don't expect to buy cheap cotton wool. Low prices for it indicate that it contains many impurities and low-quality materials.
• Dust. The process of insulating the walls of a house with stone wool is accompanied by a copious amount of dust, especially if it is not handled carefully. For protection, it is advisable to take a respirator, although a regular mask from a pharmacy will do.

Stone wool: application

Cotton wool insulation is used in the construction of baths, saunas, swimming pools, and when laying communications, wells and air ducts. It is even placed in the foundations of houses.

Depending on where the insulation will be used and what load it will bear, it is divided into classes:

• Soft. Suitable for laying wells and ventilated walls.
• Semi-rigid. Suitable for walls in multi-storey buildings, for thermal insulation of pipes.
• Hard. Used in foundations, floors.

Is there any harm to health during installation?

Many inexperienced builders often confuse stone wool and glass wool, although in fact they are two different material, belonging to a single class of mineral wool. Because of this, a common myth has arisen that stone wool, like glass wool, is also harmful to health, damaging the eyes and lungs. But this is only a delusion.

The point here is its special structure. The insulation is stone fiber bound with formaldehyde resins; they do not collapse and do not spread harmful substances. Therefore, we confidently declare that this building material is absolutely safe.

How to choose stone wool?

Before purchasing stone wool, you need to find out the amount of material needed and calculate the load that will be placed on the insulation.

We have already said that the prices are high, but you can still save money. The cost will be influenced by the following factors:

• Density of wool;
• Manufacturer;
• Binder and rock category;
• The presence of another layer of coating;
• Quantity purchased.

When purchasing, be sure to look at the instructions; they usually indicate the scope of use of stone wool and its specifications. The most trusted companies are Ursa (URSA), TechnoNIKOL and Rockwool. The last company is located in Denmark; insulation materials from this country are of the highest quality, since strict certification bodies work there.

When choosing, check with the seller how the fibers are arranged: horizontally, vertically or in a chaotic order. The first two types prevent the material from deforming, and the latter provides good heat and sound insulation.

Depending on the density, stone wool is usually divided into categories. Stone wool: wall slabs:

• Brand P-75. Suitable for horizontal internal surfaces that are not exposed to load, for insulating pipelines.
• Insulation for walls is wool grade P-125. Suitable for both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is ideal for insulating ceilings, floors and the inside of walls.
• PZh-175. Stone insulation for walls made of metal profiled sheets or reinforced concrete.
• Insulation wool PPZh-200. The hardest stone wool. This type is used in engineering buildings, protecting them from fire.

Which mineral wool is best for wall insulation?

Insulating a house with stone wool begins with choosing a manufacturer.

Rockwool "ROCKWOOL" is popular both in the domestic and foreign markets. It has the following distinctive characteristics:

• Good level of strength;
• Mineral wool for wall insulation lasts from 15 years;
• The fibers are arranged in a chaotic manner;
• Helps save electricity, as the manufacturer claims;
• An additional layer that increases moisture resistance.

Stone wool "TechnoNIKOL".

• Produced only on the basis of basalt rocks;
• Additional layer for noise reduction;
• Light weight for easy work.

Wall insulation stone wool "URSA":

• Special packaging will make it easy to transport and work with the material;
• Does not contain formaldehyde resins, therefore it is recommended for schools, hospitals, etc.

Buying a truly high-quality product can sometimes be difficult. Therefore, you need to know some important points.

• Pay attention to where and how cotton wool is stored. Most often, it is stored in its original packaging and wrapped in shrink film. Make sure there are no holes or cuts on the packaging. The cotton wool should not be in the open air, but under a canopy.
• If stone wool is packaged in cardboard boxes (they usually contain expensive insulation materials), then its storage location must be protected from moisture. Even after getting a little wet it will be unusable.
• Purchase goods only from trusted sellers. Give preference to those stores that are located closer to you - this will reduce the cost of delivery.

Installation of stone wool

Before properly insulating a wall with mineral wool, you need to determine where the work will be carried out. After all, insulating the walls of a house with cotton wool will look different in each area. One technology is used on the facades, and a completely different one on the attics.

Balcony and loggia

Effective insulation of a house with stone wool directly depends on high-quality surface preparation. Therefore, it is logical to briefly talk about it.

• Remove all excess debris from the loggia. Make the necessary measurements, calculating the amount of mineral wool. Assess the load on the floor.
• Next comes the glazing of the balcony. Here it is better to give preference plastic windows. Seal all cracks on frames and fencing with polyurethane foam. This will greatly protect the balcony from moisture and cold.
• Waterproofing is the next step. Protective agents (rolled or coated) must first be applied to the floor and ceiling. But wall protection is also desirable.

Only now can you proceed directly to installation. Insulation with mineral wool slabs occurs as follows:

1. The first step is to make the sheathing. It is most often made of wood (less often - of metal). The optimal thickness of the timber is 1 cm more than that of a stone wool slab. The dimensions of the cells in the grid should be about a centimeter smaller than a piece of insulation.
2. Insulation for walls is wool: installation goes from top to bottom: first the ceiling, then the walls and the floor. The ceiling needs denser mineral wool; regular mineral wool is suitable for walls and floors.
3. Special glue is applied to the plate and it is placed in place in the cell. Before doing this, do not forget to clean the surface from dirt and remove any uneven surfaces.
4. You can press the board tightly and evenly using plywood of a suitable size. Thermal insulation: stone wool is the best material for this.
5. The last stage is vapor barrier using penofol (it is sometimes replaced with ordinary polyethylene).

Stone wool for attic walls

After you have installed the rafters and laid the roof on them, you can begin insulating the house with cotton wool. But first you need to create a layer of waterproofing. It will not allow water to get on mineral wool and wooden structures. The best material for this purpose - ordinary polyethylene. Fastening is carried out with a stapler.

If the waterproofing layer extends over the entire surface of the roof (up to the ridge), then the insulation can only be laid up to the attic ceiling. This is done only to save money. High-quality repairs involve insulating the entire roof.

When laying stone wool, the most successful option is when the width of the roof beams is equal to the width of the slab. In this case, they are simply placed between them, attached to a stapler. Additional reliability will be provided by slatted sheathing or rope mesh laid underneath. All resulting cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam, and the sheathing (if it is made of wood) is treated with an antiseptic. Stone wool insulates wall slabs perfectly.

The last layer is the vapor barrier. Many builders choose glassine as a suitable material - it is cheap and performs its functions perfectly. It is attached to the rafters with a stapler; it is advisable to cover the attachment points with tape.

Insulation of external walls with stone wool

In the process of insulating a house, the question often arises: is it better to insulate the walls from the outside or from the inside? There are both disadvantages and positives to each option. For the first option they are:

• High protection from cold, noise, sun and wind;
• Will not allow the walls to freeze, because... moisture is released. For the same reason, mold and mildew do not form on structures;
• The area of ​​the room inside will not decrease;
• It becomes possible to choose any internal design, as well as, if necessary, change it.

Having convinced ourselves of the advantages of this method, we insulate the stone walls of the house. The traditional installation method looks simple: the first insulating layer is mineral wool of medium density (75 kg/m³), it covers the unevenness of the wall; the second layer is high-density wool (from 125 kg/m³), its role is to create a smooth and rigid wall surface, because this will facilitate the following finishing work.

In total, the wool for insulating walls from the outside should be a layer of 15 cm or more. The best option is when the thermal insulation is located between the load-bearing wall and the external cladding.

In practice, you can insulate a house with stone wool from the outside according to the following plan.

1. The first step is to prepare the surface. Remove any unevenness from the walls and apply a layer of plaster. Sometimes it makes sense to apply a couple of layers.
2. Next comes the installation of metal guides; they are secured above the base of the building using anchor bolts.
3. How to properly insulate a wall with mineral wool? The first layer of heat-insulating material is installed (immediately followed by the second). Glue is applied to the back of the slab and it is pressed against the wall. According to the same scheme, all external wall insulation is carried out using stone wool.
4. Metal corners that are attached to the external slopes will help protect the material from deformation.
5. A facing brick is placed on top of the layer, and the seams are sealed with plaster.

We looked at the first installation method, called a ventilated facade. There is a second way to insulate walls with stone wool.

The second method is called “wet”. The technology is only slightly different from the previous one. Stone wool: wall insulation:

Both of these methods insulate the house equally well.

Once you have insulated the walls with stone wool from the outside, you need to take care of some important things.

A layer of thermal insulation will increase the thickness of the walls by about 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to lengthen the slopes, ebbs and window sills so that weather conditions do not spoil the material.

If you decide to lay more than two layers of mineral wool, then this is a bad idea. The more layers, the more air pockets between them. And they lead to a deterioration in thermal insulation properties.

Insulation of walls from the inside with stone wool

Insulation with stone wool from the inside is much faster and cheaper, and even novice builders can easily cope with this task. However, work can only be done in a room where there is no high humidity. The advantages of insulating walls from the inside are as follows:

• Low cost and labor intensive.
• You can put insulation not only on the entire building, but also on individual rooms in which you will live. It's quite economical.
• It is permissible to work at any time of the year, regardless of weather conditions.

Insulating a house with mineral wool can begin with a calculation required quantity mineral wool. There is a special formula for this. Wall area (m²), multiplied by the thickness of the mineral wool (mm) and divided by the volume of the package. That is, if the area is 15, thickness is 100, volume is 0.432, then you will need about three and a half packages.

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls with stone wool is carried out in several stages. The general scheme of an insulated wall may look something like this: first there is a load-bearing wall, followed by a layer of vapor barrier, then thermal insulation, and another vapor barrier layer, and at the end there is interior finishing.

Stone wool for interior walls is suitable for medium density (look for values ​​around 100 kg/m³). Such mineral wool will increase the thickness of the wall by 8-10 cm. Take this into account when carrying out repair work. You can insulate a small room with mineral wool in one day.

One of the methods for implementing the above plan uses relatively simple technology. Stone wool: installation:

1. A strong support is created from metal hangers and profiles. You can put foam tape under it to improve the thermal insulation in the room. If you plan to create two layers of mineral wool, then another additional frame will be required.
2. Then comes the vapor barrier. If polyethylene was chosen as the material, then a small air chamber should be left between the wall. It can be attached either with tape or glue.
3. Stone wool insulation is placed inside each section of the frame.
4. Then again there is a layer of vapor barrier. This time it is better to attach it directly to the metal profile with self-tapping screws.
5. Plasterboard is placed on top and interior finishing is done.

Stone wool on interior walls, like stone wool on exterior walls, perfectly protects against unnecessary noise. This is especially useful in those houses that are located near roads.

Foundation insulation

Bathhouses usually need foundation insulation, so let’s talk about them first. Why is it necessary to insulate the foundation?

• Due to the difference in temperature inside and outside, condensation forms, damaging the base of the bathhouse. Insulation helps to cope with this problem.
• Thermal insulation will reduce the amount of wood needed for kindling.
• Stone wool can protect against some mechanical damage.

It is better to insulate with mineral wool on the outside of the base, because in this way the foundation will be better protected, and therefore will last longer. The installation technology shown below is suitable for strip foundations. Insulation with mineral wool:

1. Free the base from the ground. To do this, dig a trench with a depth of one and a half meters and a width of 50 cm.
2. Afterwards sand is placed and the foundation is coated with bitumen.
3. Then the insulation is installed. Its thickness is at least 20 cm. Seal the resulting seams with foam. At the corners of the bathhouse, a layer of mineral wool is 1.5 thick. Working with stone wool is easy here.
4. Stone wool needs additional protection from a brick wall (thickness - from 25 cm), which is placed around the perimeter. There will be a blind area at the top.

A few rules and notes for quality work.

How to choose and apply glue to mineral wool

Without the correct selection and use of glue, the insulation may sag and cease to act effectively. Stone wool is a rather unusual material, and not every adhesive can provide high-quality adhesion to the wall.

Polymer-cement compositions will provide the highest adhesion. They are sold as a dry mixture similar to cement. There are several well-known brands: “EK THERMEX”, “ERESIT CT190”, “ERESIT CT180”.

Following the instructions on the package, dilute the mixture with water and mix well (repeat after 5 minutes). The solution will retain its adhesive properties for 2 hours.

Apply the solution evenly onto a flat surface of the wall so that you get 7-8 glue circles. We also apply glue to the back side of the cotton wool (closer to the edges); the surface should be covered with the composition more than half. It is also better to coat the joints. The glue hardens for some time, so it is possible to lay the slab correctly. Attaching stone wool to a wall is simple.

Sometimes, for greater reliability, additional fastening may be required. Anchor bolts or slats secured to the sheathing can help here.

The comfort of living in any house or apartment is directly related to both a properly planned, efficiently operating heating system and the degree of insulation of the building’s structures. It is completely pointless to spend a lot of money on energy resources if insufficient or poor-quality thermal insulation does not minimize heat losses, and heating devices waste a significant part of their power on unnecessary “street heating”.

One of the “main routes” for heat leakage from residential premises is external walls that do not have sufficient thermal insulation. It’s good for owners of private houses - they still have the opportunity to install external insulation. But not everyone is free with this optimal choice, and we have to look for other approaches. It would seem that there is nothing particularly complicated - you can organize the insulation of the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall, the layer of which will become the basis for. This method of thermal insulation, as they say, “has a right to exist,” however, not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance.

Insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is a rather controversial event that conceals a lot "pitfalls". And you should resort to it only in extreme circumstances, when there is absolutely no way to perform thermal insulation from the outside. Let's try to figure out what the disadvantages of this approach are and how they can be minimized.

A few words about insulation – mineral wool

First of all, let's consider the property of the insulating material mentioned in the title of the article.

Mineral wool has been used as an insulating material in industrial construction for quite a long time. With the advent of new technologies for the production of mineral wool, which led to an increase in product quality, a decrease in the degree of harm to humans and the environment, the scope of application has expanded significantly, and her actively used for thermal insulation work in residential buildings.

You should be well aware that the concept of mineral wool hides several of its types, which have significant differences, and not all varieties are applicable in a residential building. The main parameters are summarized in the table, but a few words must still be said about each of the varieties.

Name of parameters	stone wool	Slag	Glass wool
Miniature
Average fiber diameter, µm	from 4 to 12	from 4 to 12	from 5 to 15
Hygroscopicity of the material in 24 hours (no more) %	0,95	1.9	1.7
Taunting	No	Yes	Yes
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m-K)	0,035-0,042	0,46-0,48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 0.95	from 0.75 to 0.82	from 0.8 to 0.92
Presence of binder, %	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Sintering temperature, °C	600	250-300	450-500
Limit temperature of use, °C	up to 1000	up to 250-300	from -60 to +450
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Release of harmful substances during combustion	slightly	Yes	slightly
Heat capacity, J/kg*K	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	moderate	weak	weak

There are three main types of mineral wool.

• Glass wool is known to everyone - it is obtained by melting quartz sand or broken glass. Fibers with a thickness of about 5 ÷ 15 microns and a length of 15 to 50 mm are drawn from the melted mass, which are then pressed into light and elastic mats using a binder component. Typically, glass wool is easy to distinguish from other types by color - it is characterized by yellow tints.

The material is chemically inert, does not rot, and will not become a breeding ground for any forms of biological life. Disadvantage - glass wool fibers are very fragile, thorny, and can cause serious skin irritation when laying the material. The same quality also determines the undesirability of using glass wool in residential premises - microparticles of fibers can be carried with dust, enter the respiratory system, cause allergic reactions or asthmatic attacks in people suffering from chronic diseases.

Thus, it is still not worth using glass wool to insulate the inner surface of walls in residential premises.

• Slag wool is the second representative of this class of insulation. We won’t talk much about it - it is not suitable for thermal insulation of a living space. There are many reasons for this. In addition to the disadvantages inherent in glass wool - fragility, causticity, dust formation, slag wool is the most hygroscopic, gives the greatest shrinkage with loss of insulating qualities. In addition, there are many questions about it from the point of view of environmental cleanliness. The raw material for its production - blast furnace slag, sometimes has a very ambiguous composition and even background radiation, and increased acidity coupled with moisture absorption creates a very aggressive environment, which has a particularly destructive effect on metal parts.
• If you take mineral wool for internal insulation, then exclusively basalt (stone). Compared to others, it is the most durable, elastic, its fibers are not so brittle, and do not cause irritation to the skin and mucous membranes. At the same time, all this is absolutely without loss of insulating qualities - the thermal conductivity coefficient is no worse than that of glass wool.

Stone wool is also capable of absorbing moisture, but its hygroscopicity index is the lowest. During the manufacturing process of such mineral wool, the binder completely polymerizes and cannot pose a significant danger to the human body (of course, if we are talking about high-quality, certified products from well-known manufacturers).

Basalt wool is extremely convenient to install - mats or slabs made from it hold their shape well, are easy to cut, some of them can, if necessary, be fixed to the walls using construction adhesive (this can be very important for high-quality thermal insulation).

What is extremely important for residential premises is that basalt wool belongs to the group of non-combustible and non-combustible materials, and its heat resistance is the highest among all insulation materials produced in the form of panels, slabs or mats.

In a word, basalt stone wool, although it still has certain disadvantages, becomes the only right choice.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Let's go to theory "underwater rocks" wall insulation from the inside

So, subject to certain technological rules, basalt mineral wool can be used for insulation work both outside and inside premises. Why then are there so many opponents of thermal insulation from the inside?

Probably many people have put “bright spots” on the façade walls of high-rise buildings. apartment owners, not satisfied with the degree thermal insulation of walls, considerable expenses are incurred in order to use external insulation.

It is almost impossible to carry out such insulation on your own. You have to resort to the services of companies that have specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering. Agree that such high-quality work, which includes preparing the wall for thermal insulation, installing insulation, and high-quality finishing, cannot be cheap. Nevertheless, many people go for it.

By the way, in order to carry out such external insulation of apartment walls, one will also have to face administrative problems. – it is necessary to obtain the appropriate permission. And there is no guarantee that the “okay” will be received. Thus, the refusal may be motivated by a violation of the appearance of the building or the design style of the street, especially if the house is classified as an architectural monument or is part of a single urban ensemble. Permission will not be obtained if the apartment is adjacent to technological expansion joints of the building, elevator shafts, or other structural elements of the building. In a word, many difficulties are foreseen in this matter, even if the required material resources are available.

So why not carry out internal insulation, because there is a lot benefits?

• The work is not tied in any way to the time of year or weather conditions - do it whenever you want.
• Work on internal insulation, at first glance, requires much lower costs - both in terms of purchasing materials, and from the point of view of the possibility of carrying it out on your own, without the involvement of specialists.
• In addition to insulation, the walls also receive effective sound insulation.
• Work can be carried out in stages, from one room to another, as far as possible and need.

However, this whole “rosy picture” is seriously spoiled shortcomings similar insulation method:

• Carrying out work temporarily paralyzes life in a particular room and disrupts the comfort of living in others - furniture has to be moved, and construction waste inevitably spreads throughout the apartment.
• The total costs of insulating external walls may not be so insignificant - this entails, in addition to thermal insulation measures, also large-scale work to restore or even completely update the interior decoration of the room.
• Internal insulation will oblige the owners to radically reconsider the quality system
• Insulating walls from the inside is always a loss in the usable area of ​​the rooms.
• And most importantly, by carrying out such insulation, the owners, winning in one thing, receive a “time bomb” - a high probability of the appearance and spread of dampness, mold, and mildew on closed walls, which not only leads to unpleasant odors, but also poses a certain danger to the health of residents .

In addition, in damp walls, processes of decomposition, erosion, and corrosion of the building materials from which they are constructed arise and develop much faster.

Let's look at the main disadvantages in more detail.

Is the reduction in room area really that significant?

It would seem - how much space can it “steal”? But this only at first glance seems insignificant.

Let's take as an example a room measuring 5 × 3.5 meters. Its usable area is 17.5 m².

Let's say there are two external walls in a room (item 1) that require insulation. A layer of mineral wool (item 2) 50 mm thick was used as thermal insulation. On top it is covered with plasterboard sheathing (item 3) in one layer - this will take about 15 mm more with installation and putty. In total, the length of the two sides of the room is reduced by an average of 65 mm (even if we do not take into account the possible curvature of the walls - in this case the difference will be even greater).

We calculate the area: 3.435 × 4.935 = 16.95 m². In total, the total loss of usable space in the room, which is already small in size, amounted to 0.55 m²! Moreover, the calculation took into account, as already mentioned, the theoretical straightness of the walls and the minimum thickness of the insulation - only 50 mm.

If we add to this the forced relocation of heating radiators and the expansion of window sills, then the losses look quite significant. In a spacious room, you can somehow optimize the space, minimizing the consequences of such losses. But in a cramped kitchen, where sometimes every centimeter counts, it will be more difficult to get out of the situation.

But these, as they say, are everyday problems that can be overcome with “little loss.” The situation is much more serious with questions lying in the plane of thermophysics.

Balance between high-quality insulation and condensation formation

This is where the most vulnerable spot of internal wall insulation lies. And the main “enemy” is water, which transforms from vapor into a liquid state (condensate) at a certain point where the internal heat of the premises and the cold from the street meet. Place condensation has its own name - “dew point”.

The dew point changes non-linearly and depends on many factors - humidity level, outside-inside temperatures, wall design and materials used.

It should be clearly understood that the level of absolute humidity in residential premises is often higher than in the open air. This is explained simply - in addition to the general humidity background, which depends on the climatic conditions of a given area, time of year, established weather, etc., a considerable amount of air vapor is added to it, which is formed in the process of daily human activity. This includes exhaled vapors, cooking or boiling water, taking water treatments, wet cleaning, washing and drying clothes, and in some cases, even special air humidifiers are used to improve the comfort of your stay.

Excess moisture always requires a certain outlet to maintain the overall balance. Part of the problem can be solved by ventilating the premises or operating the ventilation system. But still a very large amount of water vapor finds its way through the walls. Most building materials have good vapor permeability - they say that “the wall breathes.” Under optimal conditions, vapors penetrate the barriers and freely escape into the atmosphere, unless, of course, they “bump into” the dew point.

One of the main tasks in thermal engineering calculations of enclosing structures is to bring the dew point as close as possible to the outer edge of the wall or even beyond it, into the layer of external insulation. Then, subject to certain conditions, the condensed moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere without causing any harm to the wall structure.

It is much worse if the dew point falls on the inner surface of the wall. Moisture begins to accumulate, leading to the negative consequences that have already been described above. In addition, if the wall is closed from the inside with mineral wool insulation, then it begins to become damp, losing its thermal insulation and sound-absorbing quality.

How can we achieve such a state of affairs so that with internal insulation we can “kill two birds with one stone” - ensure the necessary total resistance to heat transfer and prevent the formation of condensation on the walls? Alas, under the stated conditions, in the complete absence of high-quality external thermal insulation, this task is impossible in principle. And we are more likely talking about minimizing negative consequences similar method of insulation.

There are special calculation methods that allow you to determine the optimal design of the insulating wall system. Their main principle is based on the fact that in order to replenish the heat losses of a building, the total value of the thermal resistance of the wall structure must correspond to the tabulated parameters calculated for the climatic conditions of a given region. The table itself would take up a lot of space in the article, so it is better to provide a map diagram of the Russian Federation, which indicates the required values ​​of thermal resistance for walls, ceilings and roofing coverings. In this case, we are interested in the first value, for walls - it is shown in purple numbers.

Thermal resistance value R (m²×° WITH/W) of a wall structure having, say, n layers is calculated using the formula:

R = R1 + R2 + … Rn

hn – thickness of a specific layer

λn is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which the finished layer is made.

The coefficient value is a tabular value that is easy to find on the Internet.

By calculating the resistance of each layer, you can also calculate the temperature difference on its outer and inner surfaces, and this will allow you to estimate the location of the dew point.

However, such precise calculations are usually carried out by specialists; the formulas are quite complex and cumbersome, and not everyone can do it. Such a task is not facing us now. But in order to argue the thesis about the undesirability of insulation from the inside, let’s take an example to see how a brick wall of 1.5 bricks (380 mm thick) will “behave” with different variations in the location of thermal insulation.

All diagrams show two lines. Black is a graph of temperature changes in the thickness of the wall structure. Blue is a temperature graph of dew currents. Accordingly, the point of their intersection or coincidence is the very place where condensation will form abundantly. All calculations were carried out based on winter conditions - temperature inside the apartment + 20 ° WITH, outside - frost -20 ° C. To estimate, let’s take the value R = 3.24 m²×° WITH/W, which corresponds to, for example, region of the Middle Volga region, for which These temperatures are the average statistical norm.

The calculations take into account that the air in the room has a certain thermal resistance (on average - 0.13 m²×° WITH/W) and outside (0.04 m²×° WITH/W).

A. “Naked” brick outside and inside wall

1 – brick wall, h = 0.38 m

The graphs do not intersect - condensation will not form. But the insulating qualities of such a wall do not meet the requirements in any way - heating devices will waste a lot of energy on heating the wall, ultimately– heat evaporates outside. Let's look at the table:

Material of wall structure layers	Thickness, [cm]	Thermal resistance, [m² °C / W]	T inside, [°C]	T outside, [°C]
Total	38	0.75
indoors		0.13	20	13.03
Brickwork	38	0.58	13.03	-17.85
Street		0.04	-17.85	-20

The resulting total value of R = 0.75 is not even close to the desired value of 3.24.

B. Exterior plastered wall