How to lay a mortar brick. How to lay a brick: the correct execution of brickwork with your own hands. However, there are downsides

If you decide to do the construction yourself brick house, then you should learn how to lay a brick with your own hands. Not a single builder and even an ordinary summer resident can do without this skill now. This is because brick is a universal stone of its kind. Since ancient times, when builders invented the ingenious method of firing, this stone has become the most popular building material in the world. Let's put all the stages of work on the shelves and figure out how to properly lay a brick with your own hands.

Before you start building a brick house on your own, you need to thoroughly study all kinds of brick laying methods.

Solution preparation

To properly bond the bricks together, you will need a sand-cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand): 1 (cement).

If the solution is viscous, add clay, lime or even liquid soap to it, then you will give it fluidity.

In order for the brick to hold together qualitatively, the mortar must be prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand) to 1 (cement).

But remember that when laying a hollow building material, such a solution will not work, otherwise it will fill all the voids, thereby worsening the thermal insulation characteristics. building material.

First, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed, and then water is added in such an amount that a solution of the density you need is obtained. If you have to lay bricks with your own hands alone, then do not rush to knead too much mortar. It is much better if you make a little bit of mortar for each small batch. In this case, the likelihood that the solution will harden or deteriorate is reduced to zero.

Preparing tools for work

The most important tool that you need to lay bricks with your own hands is a trowel. With its help, you apply the mortar to the brick, with its help you pick up the squeezed out excess mortar, and also level the bricks with a trowel handle.

You will also need a grinder or cutting machine (with stone discs) for. If you do not have such devices, then in extreme cases a hammer with a sharpened striker will fit, it will also allow you to split bricks fairly evenly.

With the help of a plumb line and building level you will check the accuracy of the masonry. After all, laying bricks with your own hands “by eye” is a dangerous business, because the structure can collapse in a couple of years! Do not neglect the building level.

Bricklaying

First of all, you need to take care of the foundation, dig a trench 1.5 by 1.5 meters along the perimeter of the building.

Laying the foundation is pretty easy. Give preference to a columnar design. To properly lay the foundation, you will need to dig a trench measuring 1.5 * 1.5 m around the entire perimeter of the building. Fix metal (or wooden piles). When choosing a support for the foundation, be guided by the estimated size of the house. If you are building a small summer house, then it makes no sense to install huge metal poles under the foundation. They lay out the foundation of red, well-burned brick, in no case use silicate and hollow. This is because the latter will get wet and accumulate moisture in itself.

The trench is covered with sand, carefully compacted, then several layers of waterproofing are laid out and crushed stone is poured. If the soil in your area is sandy, you can completely do without crushed stone, then you just do the brickwork. Try, of course, to lay out the foundation as evenly as possible. But still, according to the builders, laying out the foundation is much easier than the building itself.

Beginning builders are always faced with the problems of removing vertical angles and laying bricks in one line. Let's tackle these problems.

Spend most of your time and attention laying the first row bricks. You can correctly create a guide line using a stretched long cord or rail. A brick is laid with the expectation that a gap of about 3 mm remains between it and the rail (cord), otherwise the cement will put pressure on the guide and distort accuracy. Of course, use the level, not only when laying the first row of bricks, but when laying each individual brick. And check neighboring bricks, avoiding all deviations in the vertical and horizontal planes.

Before you start laying, you need to decide how the front side of the house will look.

Varieties of seam execution

Before laying a wall, you need to know in advance how the front side of the house will be finished. If you want to plaster the facade of the building in the future, then use the method popularly called “into the wasteland”. This method implies the following: when we lay a brick, we do not bring the mortar to the front face of the block, thereby leaving small voids. In the future, the plaster, when flowing into such cracks, will hold much stronger.

If you have to lay bricks in the house (chimney, chimney), then the “undercut” method will suit you. That is, unlike the upper method, the gaps are completely filled with cement. This will avoid the accumulation of soot and dust in the inner surface. Sometimes such embroidery can be used for decorative purposes.

The most common is a convex or concave decorative seam. To achieve the perfect seam, you need to use a stick or tube. For a convex seam, cut the tube and apply it so that the seam takes shape.

Laying out the corners

You need to lay out the corners first. The corners must be higher than the walls. This is done in order to further place the benchmarks and beacons (to pull the cords). Laying out the corners correctly means being half sure that you will accurately lay out the structure, remember this.

Correct order

Ordering is called even metal corners, with which you can bring out the desired right angles. To set the order, you need to place a few bricks using a level. Then you can already fix the order using special brackets and clamps. Check the accuracy of placing the order with a level, if everything is in order, then feel free to pull the mooring cord.

If the length of the wall is relatively small, then instead of the cord, you can use an aluminum profile. This method will provide you with exceptional accuracy when laying bricks horizontally with your own hands.

A few more tips:

bandage the bricks, do not allow the seams to coincide in adjacent rows;
for every 5 rows of bricks, lay a reinforcing mesh;
the rules for laying decorative facing bricks do not differ from the rules for laying ordinary bricks;
before laying, dip the bricks into the water;

And most importantly - do not rush! The cement mortar hardens for quite a long time, so you have time to fix all the bumps and shortcomings.

Calculate the number of rows and bricks, proceed from the standard brick sizes, that is, 25 * 12 * 6 cm. Take about 10% as a reserve, in case the bricks are damaged during laying (break, break off).

Brick houses are still popular due to their reliability and durability. And, although often the construction and laying of walls is entrusted to specialists, it is not difficult on your own.

Varieties of brickwork

Brickwork is not only distinguished by its strength and quality. Through this material, you can create a large number of drawings.

However, the complexity of the pattern suggests greater skill in doing the work. Consider the most common masonry options:

Do-it-yourself chain laying of bricks involves a constant series of bonder and spoon rows. Mandatory condition: the joints must match vertically.

The cross is distinguished by the dressing of the spoon masonry with horizontal seams.

Dutch masonry includes a combination of bonded and combined rows. The last of them is formed by horizontal alternation of bricks, set in a bond and spoon method.

Gothic masonry is based on mixing the basic principles of masonry.

To receive masonry in English style one brick must be laid with dressing in two. Another condition is the alternation of tychkovy and two spoon rows.

Well masonry is considered the simplest and most rational. It is formed by erecting two walls in half brick and connecting them with a bridge vertically or horizontally.

For the result to be appropriate, it is worth choosing a pattern for laying bricks and following it.

How to determine the correct laying of bricks

For beginner bricklayers, laying bricks in a line at a uniform level and getting right angles are common difficulties. For the process to proceed correctly, the following must be observed:

The first row requires special attention. They are placed at a distance of three mm. The evenness of the row is checked using a special tool.
It is necessary to lay a brick exactly both horizontally and vertically.

Equipment

Each master has and uses the following devices for laying bricks:

To align the products, a pickaxe hammer and a grinder are used.
To check the evenness of the wall, the master uses a plumb line, level and tape measure.
Trowels are used not only for applying mortar, but also for pre-fitting bricks.
When making a corner in brickwork, rowing is necessary.
Safety is ensured by special measures in the form of glasses.
Since the work will require a solution, you need a container.

Solution preparation

Mixing the solution is an important part of the job. It consists of sand, cement and water. For greater plasticity, laundry powder or clay is added to it.

The laying of hollow bricks using this mortar is prohibited, because in this way their hermetic properties are violated.

To work in a small team, it will be useful to purchase a concrete mixer and buy 300 or 400 grades of cement.

Corner stacking

When choosing where to start laying bricks, pay attention to the corners. Experienced craftsmen usually take the corners above half the wall before working on the flat sections of the wall. This is not surprising, since half of the correctness of the design depends on the evenness of the corners.

Note!

The perimeter of the future house is determined using a tightly stretched cord. For the evenness of the angle, novice masons use ordering. It helps to fix and correctly lay the first bricks.

Experienced craftsmen can do without this tool, relying on experience. To regulate the vertical, a plumb line or level is used.

Making seams

Because each row brickwork interspersed with a solution, you need to know the basic principles of working with it:

When choosing an empty space, the solution should not only not be outside the wall, but also leave gaps, which will then be plastered.

Convex seams are classified as decorative. They are performed using a special tool. From improvised materials, you can use a pipe cut along.

Note!

A concave seam is not considered difficult to perform. It requires a stick or a tube.

Smooth seams are considered the most optimal, since after them it is not necessary to further level the surface. They are often used in the manufacture of chimneys and fireplaces.

Main masonry

Immediately after the removed corners, you can start laying the wall. The corners will rise with the erection of the walls. But it is important that the cord does not sag. The brick is laid tightly to the corner on the mortar applied earlier with a gap of 3 mm.

If there is a need to cut bricks, it makes sense to use a grinder. In the absence of this tool, this work can be done with a pickaxe.

To ensure the density of the masonry mortar, they take a little more than necessary, and each brick is carefully pressed down. What came out must be assembled with a trowel. Don't be discouraged if you don't get what you want right away. Sometimes it takes practice to get the job done right.

Note!

To make sure the result is correct, pay attention to the photo of the brickwork.

Strengthening masonry

Such work is necessary for those who wish to extend the life of an old house instead of building a new one. Whatever the do-it-yourself bricklaying scheme, before starting this work, it is necessary to check the reliability of the foundation. If there are cracks
or breaks, your structure will not last long.

After you are convinced of the reliability of the base, it makes sense to strengthen the wall with reinforcement and wire plaster. Other tools necessary for this work include a chain-link mesh, a special solution for plastering walls, trowels, nails and wire.

wall reinforcement technology

The first stage of work is to clean the wall. Then it is necessary to clean the seams and hammer nails with a distance of no more than 100 mm so that the height of the cap is 20 mm higher than the wall level.

Now you need to put the chain-link mesh on the prepared nails as firmly as possible. Instead of such a mesh, you can use ordinary wire. Only when forming cells is worth Special attention draw on the corners, avoiding holes in those places.

The next step is to plaster the wall. The composition necessarily includes cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4, as well as polymers to increase viscosity and plasticity.

For the basement of the wall, a cement-lime mixture, which is water resistant, can be used. To avoid lumps, the components of the composition must be sieved. The layer of plaster should be such that it covers the frame.

Conclusion

If you first decided to master the profession of a bricklayer, do not rush into the process of doing the work. Prepare materials and tools carefully.

Make a plan and calculate the number of bricks. And if you have decided on the masonry method and theoretically imagined the final result, you can begin the process.

DIY brick laying photo

Brick has been around for more than a century. From it they built houses in different countries and even parts of the world, having come up with many different methods and types of brickwork. And although there are a lot of secrets and features in the technology itself, you can understand everything. First you need to familiarize yourself with the basic provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what is at stake. Then, choose the masonry technique and the type of dressing, and then begin the practical development of skills. Do-it-yourself brickwork can be done at least as well as that of professionals. The only thing in which an amateur will definitely concede is in speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly not be worse.

Basic terms

Let's start with general concepts. Everyone knows exactly what a brick looks like, that it is ceramic, and there is silicate - too. But not many are aware of how the edges of this material are correctly called. And in the description of masonry technology, they are very common.

The largest edge is called pastel", middle - lateral - " spoons", and the smallest -" poke«.

The dimensions of a brick, in principle, are standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm - single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm - one and a half), but its production technology is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each of faces, and this is a rather significant difference, given the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several firings in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.

It is also important to pay attention to the geometry: the edges must be located strictly at 90 °. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur, and the wall may crumble.

Types of masonry

Brick walls can play a different role. In some cases, this is only decoration, in some - partitions, and sometimes - load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:

In half a brick. Most often, this is how cladding is done. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you get a wall a quarter of a brick. When arranging such (in 1/2 or 1/4) in each 4-5 row, a reinforcing mesh is laid. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional bonds that increase the strength of the masonry.
Into a brick It can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness - 250 mm.
One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.

Dressing and row names

Although a brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work as a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made with an offset. Experts call this technique "dressing". It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing you to redistribute the load on large surfaces.

To ensure the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are arranged in different ways:

if they are turned to the front side by the smallest part - a poke, such a row is called tychkovy;
if turned with a long side - a spoon - a row is called spoon.

Moreover, the first in the masonry - on the foundation - lies the bonder, they also finish the masonry. And for him it is necessary to use solid bricks.

Single row dressing

Alternate alternation of such rows gives a very good result. This type of ligation is called single-row or chain ligation. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. According to such a system, both external and load-bearing walls can be folded.

Wall masonry schemes

Single row examples brick wall in 1.5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.

Single-row dressing in the wall of 1.5 and 2 kripich

In the case of laying a wall in two bricks, two more terms appear. Two outer spoon rows are called versts - outer verst directed to the street inner verst- into the room. For them, use an even, good material, especially carefully choosing those that are directed outward. The space between them is called backlog. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use a lower grade material, for example, second-hand.

Please note that with this masonry, sawn bricks are also required: halves and three-quarters. Three-quarters in the diagram are crossed out crosswise, halves - with one diagonal stripe. How to make the adjunction of partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.

Corner schemes

The laying of the corner in this case is very important. According to the method, the corners are first driven out, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the scheme. But the corners are put first, on how correctly and evenly they are driven out, it depends on how even the whole building will be. The scheme of laying a corner in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located below. Masonry begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, then the whole ones go.

See the video for the sequence of actions. Very detailed explanation with step by step demonstration of the procedure.

The same system, but in a wall of 1.5 bricks. In addition to whole pieces, 3/4 pieces and quarters are required. Spoon row alternately on the inside, then on the outside verst.

How this scheme is put into practice, see the video.

When laying a corner of 2 bricks in the first row, all the same two three-quarter pieces are required, and another 6 quarters or, as they say, checks. In the second one, one for 3/4 and two checks are already required.

Multi-row dressing

With multi-row dressing, several spoon rows - 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for a one-and-a-half) - are interspersed with one bonder. The first and last are also placed with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying exterior and interior walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or decoration.

Wall masonry schemes

So that with such a system, free-standing columns do not turn out, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure the displacement of the seams, crushed bricks are used.

Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row dressing scheme in 2 and 2.5 bricks

The adjunction of walls with this method also occurs with a dressing. This ensures increased strength of the abutment of the walls. Schemes - in the photo below.

Corner masonry patterns

And again about how to lay corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.

You will see all this in the video.

If the wall is 1.5 bricks, in the first and second rows with bonders, but located either in the outer or in the inner verst. The third and fourth rows are exclusively placed on a spoon.

The fifth row is laid similarly to the third, the sixth - to the fourth. The system then repeats. At times, not a multi-row (with 5 spoon poisons), but a three-row system is required. Then from the fifth row, the clack is repeated.

Mortar for masonry

The brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used not lower than M400, sand is clean, ravine. The proportions for the specified brand are 1 to 4 (for m500 - 1: 5). The batch is done manually or with a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.

First, sand is sifted, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then water is added. Its amount is 0.4-0.6 parts, but they look at the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with a plastic mortar than with a rigid one, but when laying a hollow brick, in this case the consumption of the mortar greatly increases: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a hard solution.

To improve plasticity and more convenient work, lime, clay or liquid detergent are added to the composition (you can use hand soap, there are in large flasks). The number of additives is quite small - no more than 0.1 parts, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to stack, it does not delaminate for longer.

Immediately it is worth warning: do not knead large volumes at once. The batch must be used within two hours. And in the last half hour, it can be difficult to work with him: the separation of water may begin, or it may begin to seize. It depends on the weather conditions and the quality of the cement, on the thoroughness of the kneading. If do-it-yourself bricklaying is your first experience in this area, it will turn out slowly. Therefore, it is better to make portions of the solution small.

Approximate solution consumption

Often for beginners planning to lay bricks on their own, the question arises: at what temperature can you work. Without special additives, it is possible to work at positive temperatures. In the best case - not lower than + 7 ° C. This is the threshold at which the cement normally sets. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops, as a result, the mortar may crumble, and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar, there are special antifreeze additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.

Before use, the solution is stirred, as heavy particles can sink down, and water can rise to the top. The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transferred to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately put a strip of mortar - a bed - for one row. Under the tychkovy row, the width of the bed is 200-220 mm, for the spoon row - 80-100 mm. If the seam is completely filled, about 10-15 mm recede from the edge, the mortar height is 20-25 mm, which during laying provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.

There are three techniques for doing brickwork. On a hard low-plastic solution, the “press” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the "butt" technique.

Brickwork technique "butt"

As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution immediately on the entire surface of the wall: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.

The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, an indent of about 15-20 mm remains from the edge. Such an indentation avoids squeezing the solution onto the front surface, but at the same time, the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, the laying of verst rows (outer and inner) by this method is prohibited.

When laying a spoon row, they take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Bringing to the already laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm, they begin to rake up the solution with an edge (poke). When docking, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (sagging), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to a wall.

Brick laying technique "back to back"

With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. Therefore, this method is also called "wasteshovka". They are filled when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet very well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce strength and thermal insulation characteristics.

When laying the bonder row, everything is exactly the same, only the solution is raked with a spoon edge. The backing is laid, like the tying rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are on the same level. This is done using the building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.

Technique "squeeze"

When working with hollow bricks, as a rule, hard mortars are used. In this case, a brick is used with the “press” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.

The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. They take a brick with their left hand and press it against the trowel, while pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with a brick, achieving the required thickness of the seam (10-12 mm).

Technique "end-to-end"

Excess solution is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, they take the level, checking the horizontality of the row, by tapping the handle of the trowel, straightening the position. The solution squeezed out is selected. It turns out dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.

Butt with undercut

The average performance method - butt with cutting seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying, pressing it, and the laying technique is close-fitting: they raked the mortar with a brick, put it down, pressed it down, and removed the excess. If the wall is subsequently not planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take the jointing - a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).

As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with "intermediate" plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little tighter than when laying back to back.

DIY brickwork: tools, order and features

Now, how to lay a brick with your own hands, you have an idea, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.

Let's start with the tool. You will need:

mason's trowel - apply and level the mortar on the bricks;
concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
two or three buckets for the solution;
plumb - check the verticality of walls and corners,
building level - to check the horizontal laying of the row;
mooring cord - for beating rows;
jointing (for forming seams);
hammer-pick for beating undersized bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks - 1/4);
the rule is a metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.

Next, we talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.

Second: the corners are driven out first. First two first. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is expelled. The second and third are also connected by several full rows. After the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter closes. This is how walls should be erected, bypassing them around the perimeter, and the walls will not be kicked out one by one. This is one of the most common mistakes.

Third, there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which fishing line laces are tied. It must be stretched so that it marks the upper edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.

The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat bar or corner, on which marks are applied every 77 mm - risks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.

There is another way - a bricklayer's corner. It has a slot on one side into which the mooring is inserted. "Sits down" on the corner on the solution.

The disadvantage of this method is the same as just a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled "manually" when deriving corners. With a lack of experience (and where to get it if brickwork is being done for the first time with your own hands), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) ordering is easier.

Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 of the part. So that the work does not slow down, before starting the masonry, it is required to prepare them. This is done with a pickaxe. When preparing, high accuracy in size is required, otherwise the dressing will fail. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. Having attached the pen to the brick, marks are made on it on both sides of the spoon. Then, having applied the pick blade to the mark, they beat on the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, the picks break the brick with a strong blow.

The article will teach you how to properly lay a brick in a brickwork with your own hands in several ways, and also tell you about the nuances of preparing a mortar and share the secrets of all the preparatory work.

With one or another method of laying bricks, it is important to take into account such characteristics as the plasticity of the masonry mortar, the moisture content of the brick, and the season of work.

Necessary tools and materials for brickwork

First of all, in order to lay brickwork, we need the brick itself. In addition to this building material, you will also need:

cement;
sifted sand;
detergent;
water.

Tools:

metal mesh for screening sand;
large or medium capacity for mixing the solution;
shovel;
Master OK;
thick fishing line;
hammer;
plumb;
construction corner.

foundation to zero

Make sure the foundation surface is perfectly level (set to zero)

This is the first stage of masonry, which can be called preparatory. The foundation must be isolated from the masonry with a roofing material. This is what will become reliable. The roofing material should be cut and laid in such a way that it completely covers the foundation from above.

An important preparatory stage also includes the mandatory sifting of sand. Otherwise, small pebbles and clay, contained in large quantities in any sand, will greatly interfere with the work process.

Solution preparation

Sand and cement (grade 500) are most often taken in a 4:1 ratio. For one meter of brickwork, about 50 bricks will be needed. Their average size: 5 * 12, 5 * 25 cm. If the laying goes into one brick, then the consumption will increase to 100 bricks, therefore, more mortar will be needed.

How to lay brickwork with your own hands

A mooring cord will allow you to monitor the evenness of your brickwork

General information:

You need to start laying walls from the corners. To begin with, two bricks are taken, which are placed at a right angle on the foundation. A special construction triangle will help measure the accuracy of a right angle. The following should be placed at the point of bricks. On the resulting masonry of four bricks, a couple more bricks are placed at the corner. This is done so that the next row overlaps the previous one. After the wall is raised by three bricks, you need to switch to another corner. Repeat all the above operations again;
When laying bricks, be sure to use arrangement of brickwork and pull moorings. They will be a guideline in ensuring the evenness of the horizontal rows. The cord is located every five meters. It shouldn't sag. Read also about order.
There are single-row and multi-row brick laying sequences. With single-row masonry, masonry is first done outer wall, then the inside, then laying the backing (see the following figure). With multi-row masonry, bricks are laid in a mixed or stepped manner; The thickness of multi-row brickwork is accordingly greater than even two single-row ones.
It is very important during the masonry process to ensure the availability of mortar and bricks. Then it will be possible not to fuss, and work calmly. This approach will provide improved performance;

Terms applicable to brickwork

According to SNiP: The thickness of the horizontal joints of brickwork and stones of the correct form should be 12 mm, and vertical seams- 10 mm.

Brick masonry walls

Laying end-to-end of the spoon and bonder rows

The solution is applied in an even layer, a small ridge is left at the edge of the wall so that it is possible to fill the vertical seams.

For the spoon row, the solution is applied with a deviation of 2-2.5 cm from the wall, the mortar layout is about 7-8 cm.

Back-to-back brick laying technology:

The bricklayer takes two bricks.
Lays them flat (at an angle) at a distance of about 10 cm from the already laid bricks.
Gradually, the bricklayer turns and pulls the bricks up to the ones already laid.
In this case, there will be a bed of mortar in front of the front edge, which will fill the horizontal and vertical seams.

Brick masonry walls

Clamp masonry

Clamp laying technology:

So, in one hand the bricklayer takes a brick, with the other he levels the mortar.
He scoops up a small part of the mortar and presses it with a trowel against the edge of the installed brick.
A new brick is laid and moved a little to the already installed one.
The excess solution is removed.

This type of masonry is quite laborious, but is considered one of the most durable.

Masonry with pruning

With the complete filling of the seams and their subsequent use, this particular method of masonry is used.

The solution is laid with an indent of 10-15 cm, while the brick is laid in the same way as in the butt type.
Excess solution is removed promptly quickly.

Masonry

The semi-joint method is well suited for backfilled brickwork

In this case, the solution is applied between the inner and outer verst of the masonry. After that, the solution is leveled, and the laying of bricks takes place in the backfill.

It is possible to lay two bricks at the same time. The fence with an edge of mortar bricks occurs at a distance of 8 cm from the already laid bricks. After the fence, they are pressed against the already installed bricks.

If the vertical joints are not yet sufficiently filled, full filling will occur after the next rows have been laid. Transverse seams should immediately be completely filled.

When laying bricks, avoid:

vertical deviations. The masonry should not stick out to the center, and the wall should not go vertically to the left or right side;
Weak bandaging. The bricks of each row must be well tied with an element of the upper row. If the vertical seams coincide with adjacent seams in height, then this will drastically reduce the strength of the masonry;
Badly filled seams. Often occurs due to haste. To make the masonry strong and warm, you should not rush;
Dirty masonry. Work must be done cleanly and neatly;

The work of a professional bricklayer in the modern world of construction is highly valued. But even a non-professional can lay out a brick himself. It is important to understand the process of bricklaying, as well as to do everything carefully and conscientiously. When work is done for oneself, it will certainly argue.

Having your own house is not cheap pleasure - especially when it is built of brick. Reducing construction costs by using lower quality materials is, frankly, not the best way out.

It remains only to study the rules of brick laying, and try to build a house with your own hands. Through the video in this article, we will introduce you to the basics of masonry, wall construction, and the architectural possibilities of brickwork.

Features of masonry

Both brick and concrete blocks, in construction they call it a stone - only artificial. Unlike natural stone, they have precisely defined geometric shapes, so that when building walls, you can do without formwork.

Benefits of a brick

The rectangular shape and compact dimensions of the brick make this material the most convenient to use. It is laid on a mortar bed, in the order determined by the thickness of the walls, the architectural features of the building, and the front pattern of the masonry.

It allows you to make all kinds of layouts of buildings, rounding walls, making different configurations of openings, varying the height of floors, and much more. Brickwork can be made multi-layered, which can significantly improve the thermal performance and sound insulation of walls.

Speaking about the advantages of brickwork, one cannot fail to note its decorative effect: it allows you to improve the aesthetics of the facade of not only a brick, but also any other house, and is also a full-fledged part of the interior design.

Terms and Definitions

Before we present the rules and regulations for bricklaying, let's clarify what terms and definitions builders use. This is simply necessary, since it will be impossible for a person who does not understand what and how it is called to figure out how to do brickwork correctly.

So:

Let's start with the brick itself, which has three pairs of faces. For a single product, the two widest edges, 250 mm long and 120 mm wide, are called the bed. The long and narrow side face measuring 250 * 65 mm is a spoon. Well, a short end face, 120 mm wide and 65 mm high, is called a poke.

Laying is carried out horizontally, with laying bricks on the bed. When performing some architectural elements of the facade - for example: lintels or window sill zones, the brick can also be installed on spoons, that is, on the edge. As for the rows of masonry, their name is determined by how the bricks are located in them.

When they are turned with a spoon outward, they are called spoon. If the brick is located with the end side forward, then this is a bonded row.

Depending on the thickness of the walls, the masonry section may consist of several rows. Outward-facing - that is, extreme, are called versts, which, depending on the location, are external or internal. The rows enclosed between them are called backfilling - we will talk about them in more detail later.

What is a backfill

There is such a thing as a backing brick. This is not a particular type of brick, but a rejection, or products with a lower quality of the front surface and slight deviations in geometry.

Manufacturers even specially produce backing bricks, making its edges embossed for better grip. The main thing here is that the price should be lower, since the aesthetics of the product does not play, in this case, any role.

Note! Bricks are usually sorted before work begins. Unburned bricks, as well as products that have cracks and chips, are used for backfill rows, since they are completely hidden inside the masonry. The presence of external defects on them does not affect the strength of the masonry. Given the fact that the cost of rubble bricks is lower than the usual 25-30%, in order to save money, good quality bricks are taken for laying versts, and rejection is used for filling.

masonry structure

The height of one masonry row corresponds to the height of the stone, plus the thickness of the horizontal joint, which averages 12 mm. Since, in addition to a single brick, there is also one and a half, 88 mm high, and double, 138 mm high, the height of the masonry row can vary not only because of the thickness of the mortar, but also because of the dimension of the stone.

Naturally, the number of rows in one square meter masonry, will also be different. If a single brick is used, then thirteen rows are obtained per 1 m2, ten rows from a one-and-a-half brick, and seven incomplete rows from a double brick. The thickness of the walls, which corresponds to the width of the masonry, is always a multiple of the size of half a brick.

Half a brick, or 12 cm, is the smallest thickness of the masonry, and it happens only at interior partitions and decorative facade cladding. The thickness of the wall is one brick, corresponds to the full length of the brick. In this case, the laying of the wall in width is carried out either from one bonder or from two spoon rows, which together with the seam give all the same 25 cm.

Masonry one and a half bricks thick, obtained from a bonder and spoon row. Since both rows form the planes of the wall, they will both be versts - there are no backfills in such walls.

Backfill rows are present only in a wall with a thickness of two bricks and above. The classic scheme of a two-brick wall is as follows: spoon rows go from inside and outside, and between them there is a backing row.

Suture dressing systems

Bandaging of seams is called systemic laying of bricks, which is one of the most important nuances of masonry. Tie up both vertically longitudinal seams and transverse ones.

In the first case, this is necessary so that the monolithic structure does not delaminate in height into two separate, thinner walls.

So:

With cross ligation, communication is provided individual elements masonry between themselves, and the loads arising from the uneven settlement of the building are distributed. To do this, the bricks of the upper row are laid with the faces offset relative to the vertical seams of the lower row. The dressing of the longitudinal seams is carried out by alternating in the rows of spoons and pokes.

When performing masonry, various dressing variations are used. The simplest and most accurate laying method is a single-row scheme, in which the position of the bricks in the rows alternates evenly. In this case, the vertical transverse seams should be displaced by 1/4 brick, and the longitudinal ones by 1/2 brick.
There are two types of multi-row system. In it - only every sixth row is tychkovy. With this scheme, the displacement of the seams is carried out by 1/4 of the brick in the bond row, and by 1/2 in the spoon row. As for the longitudinal seams of this scheme, from the second to the sixth row they are not bandaged at all.

Note! A multi-row option seems more complicated than a single-row one. But in fact, when using this method, labor productivity is greatly increased. The reason for this is the fact that there is no need to use halves of bricks for the arrangement of backfill rows.

In the process of erecting brick pillars, as well as narrow piers, bricks are laid with pokes through three rows, on the fourth. Speaking about how to make brickwork correctly, one cannot fail to mention the front options, the most popular of which are presented above.

Decorative effect when facing the facade, is provided not only by alternating the position of the brick in the rows, but also due to various schemes for shifting vertical joints. By shifting them all the time in one direction, or alternating the direction of the shift, as well as using bricks with different textures or colors, you can get different ornaments on the masonry. To master these techniques, you need not just instructions on the Internet, but a real master class from a professional.

To improve the aesthetics of the front masonry, the seams are beautifully decorated with stitching, giving them the shape of a roller, a concave semicircle, or a triangle. This is done using a special tool - stitching.

If the walls are supposed to be plastered, then they try not to completely fill the seams with masonry mortar. They do this because the plaster adheres better to the relief surface.

Architectural masonry elements

A stone wall can be deaf and even, or it can have openings, bypassing which you need to be able to beautifully make. When laying such walls, a variety of elements can be performed: ledges and trimmings, belts, semi-columns with pilasters, and much more.

For example, ledges in masonry are shifts of the front planes in certain sections of the wall, inward or outward.

Edges are made in a similar way, only they have one feature: this detail is a transitional element from a larger wall thickness to a smaller one. Most often, the cutoff can be seen at the transition from the protruding basement to the wall. They are also satisfied with upper levels high-rise buildings when you need to reduce the thickness of the masonry of the upper floor.

What is a niche, we think everyone knows. They are more often arranged from the inside, and various built-in equipment and cabinets are placed in them. The term "pilaster" in architecture refers to elongated in height, a rectangular ledge on the wall, imitating a column. This is a very beautiful element that can frame the entrance, or beautifully highlight window openings and corners of the building.

In a similar way, but only in a different form, they arrange overlaps. In this case, a certain row of bricks protrudes above the wall plane, which extend relative to the masonry by a third of their length. The overlap of one or more rows forms a cornice, or, say, a corbel that horizontally encircles the walls between floors.

For hidden installation of communication pipes and electrical cables, grooves are arranged on the walls in the form of a strobe, which are then sealed flush with the masonry. The width and depth of the vertical furrow is a multiple of half a brick. The height of the horizontal furrow usually corresponds to a whole row of masonry.

There is also such a masonry detail as a wall, which, unlike the others, is clean. decorative elements, bears the load. The wall can be a rectangular column with smooth side faces, or have quarters on them necessary for installing window blocks.

Quarters are arranged by extending the outer spoon versts beyond the masonry surface. The size of the protrusion corresponds to ¼ of the length of the brick - hence the name. To achieve maximum masonry strength, it is recommended to lay out the pillars in a single-row dressing pattern.

But since you have to use a considerable number of three-fours (three-quarters of a brick), the craftsmen prefer to use a three-row system. In this case, only halves are added to whole bricks. This applies not only to wall pillars, but also to the laying of brick columns.

Structural nuances of brick walls

Brick walls perform not only a load-bearing function, but must also provide the building with certain thermal characteristics. The thickness, height and length of the spans of the walls are selected so that these dimensions can also ensure the stability of the structure.

In general, strength stone walls depends not so much on strength characteristics constructive material, how much on the indicators and quality of the masonry mortar. In buildings up to three floors high, the walls do not bear heavy loads. Therefore, their thickness is determined not from the calculation of strength, but depending on the design of the floors that will rely on them.

When it comes to residential buildings, then the spans of the walls enclosed between two transversely adjoining walls usually do not exceed six meters. Their maximum height is three meters. Based on stability considerations, a thickness of one brick, that is, 250 mm, is quite enough. But given the high thermal conductivity of brickwork, it can be argued that it will be cold in such a house in winter.

This problem is solved by using slotted bricks, as well as using the technology of well masonry walls. In this case, two parallel walls are erected: one in one and a half bricks, and the other in half a brick, which are rigidly connected by transverse brick lintels. The cavities formed as a result of such installation, which are called wells, are filled with foam or loose insulation.

The so-called modernized masonry, which is the same brick wells, only filled not with insulation, but with lightweight concrete based on expanded clay or polystyrene, also has excellent thermal engineering properties.

The wall can also have a layered structure, in which the walls are connected to each other not by brick lintels, but by metal or flexible fiberglass ties.

Most often, this option is used with the simultaneous cladding of a load-bearing wall. decorative brick. In this case, the insulation is no longer loose, but slab: mineral wool, PPS boards, foam glass, vermiculite.