How to lay the first row of bricks correctly. DIY brickwork. Video - Proper brick laying

The strength of the walls of a brick building directly depends not only on the quality of the building material, including brick and cement mortar, but also on the weather conditions during which the walls are constructed. And the most important condition of this kind construction work, is the professionalism of a bricklayer who knows firsthand how to lay bricks correctly.

At first glance, it may seem that there is no option other than laying the brick straight, that it is simply impossible to position it crookedly; after all, the brick has the shape of a rectangle and therefore by laying it in rows, you can achieve a perfectly flat wall. But this is a completely erroneous judgment.

In order to lay a brick wall properly, the following requirements must be met:

ensure that the same amount of mortar is applied under the brick, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve an even edge on the outer row of masonry;
a brick placed on the prepared working surface should lie parallel to the row, as a result of which its outer side will coincide with the plane of the brickwork, that is, it will be oriented along three axes of rotation;
observe three basic rules: correct linear position of the brick, the same height of the masonry with other rows, tight fit to the adjacent brick.

But even if these requirements are met, if you don’t have experience working as a mason, then nothing may work out right away. In this case, in this article we present information on how to learn how to lay bricks yourself.

In order to properly organize the workflow for laying bricks, in addition to building materials, you must have a whole set of special tools and devices.

Required Tools

Mortar or mixture for laying bricks (we’ll talk about the composition of the mortar and the method of preparation below);
Bricks ( construction material);
Construction wheelbarrow (necessary for easy delivery of bricks from the storage site to the work area);
Trowel or trowel (using this tool, mortar is laid out on the working surface of the brick and excess mixture is removed);
Construction glasses (used to protect eyes from mechanical damage and dust);
Carpenter's square (for connecting corner parts of brickwork);
Level (will help to lay out both the first layer of masonry and the subsequent ones evenly);
Hammer-pick (designed for splitting bricks);
Tape measure (for linear measurements during work);
Chalked cord (will help determine the brick laying line);
Mason's cord (allows you to create straight lines of horizontal courses of brickwork).

Preparation of the solution

It is not difficult to prepare mortar for laying bricks. It consists of cement and sand, the optimal ratio between the components is 1:5, that is, we take one part of cement and five parts of sand. Sometimes clay or lime is added to the mixture to give it plasticity.

At the first stage of preparing the solution, it is necessary to mix cement and sand in dry form, take the finished mixture in small parts and combine with water, mixing thoroughly. This will avoid hardening of the overly prepared solution and, accordingly, save on the purchase of an additional batch of cement.

To save mortar, it is better not to use “hollow” bricks, since most of the mixture will go into the hole and the mortar will not be enough to attach the brick. You can read more about preparing mortar for masonry.

Currently, when building houses or summer cottages, not everyone resorts to the help of professional builders. Someone is limited in finances, someone wants to fulfill one of the three rules of life, which say that a real man must “build a house, plant a tree, raise a son.” It is for such people that the next section of our article is intended.

DIY bricklaying technology

If you decide to build a brick house yourself, then you need to know how to lay it correctly brick wall. If a certain number of requirements are not met, it may turn out that the design will be unreliable. And the first rule says that bricklaying should begin only after the foundation has completely hardened, otherwise the wall may lead to one side and all the work will be in vain.

To ensure that there is no doubt about the correctness of the start of construction work, you need to watch the video on our website, which will tell you in detail how to learn how to lay bricks.

Starting to lay out the first layer of brick, it is necessary to place roofing material rolled in two layers on the foundation. You should first decide how the wall will be built: one brick, one and a half or two bricks.

It is easy to guess that if the first row of bricks goes crooked, then all subsequent ones will be the same. That's why it is necessary to use special construction tools, which will help to lay bricks correctly and evenly.

The next requirement in the series is how to lay a brick wall correctly is as follows, it is necessary to strictly observe the gap between the bricks, which should be at least 3 cm. This is necessary so that the solution is evenly distributed between them during installation.
Necessary with enviable frequency check building level direction of horizontal and vertical laying.

From the correct layout of the corners of the structure 50% of the success of the entire work depends. Before you start laying bricks, you first need to lay out the corners in several rows. It is very important to carry out the work using horizontal and vertical levels, since it is the angles that determine how evenly the walls will be laid. And throughout the entire work, it is necessary that the corners are two rows higher than the main walls.

If plastering is planned in the future erected brick walls, then it is necessary to use the “empty area” method. It consists of distributing a certain volume of mortar between the bricks so that it does not fill the gaps between them.

Laying out the chimney, it is necessary to ensure that the empty spaces between the bricks are completely filled with mortar. This is necessary to prevent soot from settling in the pipe. Fully filled joints are also used for facing installation.

brick ordering

To create truly even and right angles design, you will need a “ordering”, which is metal corners that help determine the accuracy of installation. To secure the order at an angle, special brackets are used, which ensure the accuracy of the design.

Ensure that bricks are laid evenly in rows Special construction tools such as a level, mason's cord, tape measure, chalk cord will help. And you should not neglect their use.

If at some point during independent construction work questions arise regarding the correct laying of bricks, then the video presented on our website will help you figure it out.

When laying brick walls, it is necessary to ensure that the seams in other rows do not coincide, otherwise the wall will lose its stability and fall apart under the influence of force.
It is necessary to approach construction with special care and before laying a brick wall, it is best to draw a work plan, which will indicate the required amount of bricks and the number of laid rows.
If there is no practice in laying facing bricks, but such a need arises, then you can resort to traditional laying of ordinary building bricks - the result will be the same. The facing brick differs from the usual one only in its more aesthetic appearance and its purpose. If you still have any doubts, the laying of facing bricks is shown on our website in a step-by-step video, after watching which you can easily complete your plan.
When calculating required quantity bricks, you need to add 10% of the total volume to the resulting number, this is necessary because about a tenth of the bricks break during laying.
In order for the mortar and brick to have the greatest degree of adhesion, it is necessary to first moisten the brick in a container of water before laying it on the mortar.
To learn how to lay brickwork correctly, you need patience and haste is inappropriate here. The mortar does not dry immediately, so if necessary, you can correct some shortcomings in the work.

If after reading the article you are still not confident that you can lay a brick wall yourself, we can recommend watching a video on how to lay brickwork. The video will clearly and in detail show all stages of the work.

May the walls of your home always be strong and reliable!

If you decide to do construction yourself brick house, then you should learn how to lay bricks with your own hands. Nowadays, not a single builder or even an ordinary summer resident can do without this skill. This is because brick is a universal stone of its kind. Since ancient times, when builders invented an ingenious method of firing, this stone has become the most popular building material throughout the world. Let's put all the stages of work on the shelves and figure out how to lay bricks correctly with your own hands.

Before you start building a brick house yourself, you need to thoroughly study all the possible methods of laying bricks.

Preparation of the solution

To properly fasten the bricks together, you will need a sand-cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand): 1 (cement).

If the solution turns out viscous, add clay, lime or even liquid soap to it, then you will give it fluidity.

In order for the bricks to bond together efficiently, the solution must be prepared in a ratio of 5 (sand) to 1 (cement).

But remember that when laying hollow building material, such a solution will not work, otherwise it will fill all the voids, thereby worsening the thermal insulation characteristics of the building material.

First, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed, and then water is added in such an amount to obtain a solution of the thickness you need. If you have to lay bricks with your own hands alone, then do not rush to mix too much mortar. It is much better if you make a little solution for each small batch. In this case, the likelihood that the solution will harden or deteriorate is reduced to zero.

Preparing tools for work

The most important tool you need to lay bricks with your own hands is a trowel. With its help, you apply the mortar to the brick, with its help you pick up the squeezed out excess mortar, and also level the bricks with the handle of a trowel.

You will also need a grinder or cutting machine (with stone discs). If you do not have such devices, then in extreme cases a hammer with a sharpened head will do; it will also allow you to split bricks fairly evenly.

Using a plumb line and a building level, you will check the accuracy of the masonry. After all, laying bricks with your own hands “by eye” is a dangerous business, because the structure may collapse in a couple of years! Don't neglect the building level.

Bricklaying

The first thing you need to do is take care of the foundation, dig a 1.5 by 1.5 meter trench around the perimeter of the building.

Laying the foundation is quite simple. Give preference to a columnar design. To properly lay the foundation, you will need to dig a trench measuring 1.5 * 1.5 m around the entire perimeter of the building. Secure metal (or wooden piles). When choosing a support for the foundation, be guided by the expected size of the house. If you are building a small summer house, then there is no point in installing huge metal pillars under the foundation. The foundation is laid out of red, well-burnt brick; in no case do you use silicate or hollow brick. This is because the latter will get wet and accumulate moisture.

The trench is filled with sand, thoroughly compacted, then several layers of waterproofing are laid out and crushed stone is poured. If the soil on your site is sandy, you can completely do without crushed stone, then you just do brickwork. Try, of course, to lay the foundation as evenly as possible. But still, according to the builders, laying the foundation is much easier than the building itself.

Beginner builders always face problems with creating vertical corners and laying bricks in one line. Let's get to work solving these problems.

Focus most of your time and attention on laying the first row of bricks. You can correctly create a guide line using a long stretched cord or slats. They lay the brick with the expectation that there will be a gap of about 3 mm between it and the rail (cord), otherwise the cement will put pressure on the guide and distort the accuracy. Of course, use a level not only when laying the first row of bricks, but when laying each individual brick. And check adjacent bricks, avoiding all deviations in the vertical and horizontal planes.

Before you start laying, you need to decide what the front side of the house will look like.

Varieties of seam execution

Before laying a wall, you need to know in advance how the front side of the house will be finished. If you want to plaster the facade of the building in the future, then use the method popularly called “in the wasteland”. This method implies the following: when we lay a brick, we do not bring the mortar to the front edge of the block, thereby leaving small voids. In the future, when the plaster flows into such cracks, it will hold much stronger.

If you have to lay bricks in the house (stove chimney, chimney), then the “undercut” method is suitable for you. That is, unlike the top method, the cracks are completely filled with cement. This will avoid the accumulation of soot and dust in the inner surface. Sometimes such jointing can be used for decorative purposes.

The most common is a convex or concave decorative seam. To achieve a perfect seam, you need to use a stick or tube. For a convex seam, cut the tube and apply it so that the seam takes shape.

Lay out the corners

You need to lay out the corners first. The corners must be higher than the walls. This is done for the purpose of further placement of benchmarks and beacons (to tighten the cords). Laying out the corners correctly means you are already half sure that you will lay out the structure accurately, remember this.

Correct order

Ordering is the name for straight metal corners, with the help of which you can draw the desired right angles. To establish order, you need to lay several bricks using a level. Then you can secure the order using special staples and clamps. Check the accuracy of the placement of the order with a level; if everything is in order, then feel free to pull the mooring cord.

If the length of the wall is relatively short, then instead of a cord you can use an aluminum profile. This method will provide you with exceptional precision when laying horizontal bricks with your own hands.

A few more tips:

bandage the bricks, do not allow the seams in adjacent rows to coincide;
lay reinforcement mesh for every 5 rows of brick;
the rules for laying decorative facing bricks do not differ from the rules for laying ordinary bricks;
Before laying, dip the bricks in water;

And most importantly – don’t rush! The cement mortar hardens for quite a long time, so you have time to correct all the unevenness and defects.

Calculate the number of rows and bricks, proceed from the standard brick sizes, that is, 25*12*6 cm. Take about 10% as a reserve, in case the bricks are damaged during laying (break, break off).

Before you start laying bricks, you should familiarize yourself with the nuances of this process. From the photo of laying bricks with your own hands, you can see that it is quite easy. And to really make this task easier, below are the steps for laying brick yourself.

Brief terminology

Brick is one of the most popular building materials. With him appearance each person has known each other since childhood. But the names of its faces should be considered:

the long side edges are called “spoons”;
short side edges - “poke”;
the upper and lower edges are “beds”;
the intersection of the faces is called an "edge".

The brick has standard dimensions: single - 250 x 125 x 66 mm, and one-and-a-half - 250 x 125 x 88 mm.

Versta - outer rows of brickwork. It is divided into external (facade) and internal.

Zabutka are products that are laid between the front and interior versts.

A spoon row is bricks that are laid with long side edges. And the butt row is bricks laid with short side edges.

A pier is a part of the wall that appears between two openings (windows, doors, arches).

What is needed for bricklaying

Where to start laying bricks with your own hands? Naturally, with the preparation of the necessary working tools. Let's look at do-it-yourself bricklaying devices:

A trowel (trowel) is a flat metal spatula with a triangular-shaped handle. Serves for applying and leveling the solution, as well as for removing excess mass.
Hammer-pick - different from the classic hammer. On one side there is a blunt rectangular striker, and on the other there is a pointed part that looks like a chisel. The pointed side is intended for breaking off small pieces of brick, and the blunt side is for leveling the surface. If available, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
Construction level - necessary to control horizontal and vertical masonry.
A construction square is a type of ruler. Used to control angles.

Construction plumb line (with a fairly heavy weight). Necessary for measuring the verticality of masonry and angles.
Mooring cord (mooring cord) - twisted cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. Necessary to ensure horizontal and straight laying of rows.
Joining - used at the final stage of work. Necessary for forming seams and sealing them.
Ruler - used to check the thickness of seams.
The rule is a wooden or aluminum ruler. Used to control the plane of laying rows.
Shovel - for mixing the solution and stirring it periodically.
Concrete mixer or other container - for mixing masonry mortar.
Buckets for carrying the solution. Usually 2-3 pieces are needed.
Construction mixer - for uniformity of the solution. But it’s possible without it.

Usually a set of these tools is quite enough for construction.

Preparation of the solution

Not only the safety of the building, but also its strength depends on the masonry mortar. Therefore, special attention must be paid to this process of preparing mortar for laying bricks with your own hands.

Advice! For beginners, it is better to make a small amount of solution to eliminate the possibility of premature hardening.

For a high-quality solution use good cement grade M300-M500, dry sand (river or quarry), water and plasticizer. If necessary, dyes, soot or graphite are added to create a contrast with the brick.

Standard proportions of cement and sand are 1:3-1:5, depending on the brand of cement. It is worth considering that the more sand, the stronger the connection, but the lower the elasticity. The amount of water is often calculated by experiment and is approximately 0.4-0.6 parts. For plasticity, use lime, clay, liquid soap or, in extreme cases, washing powder in a proportion of no more than 0.1 part.

First you need to sift the sand so that it does not contain impurities from stone, soil and debris. Next, combine the dry ingredients in the required proportion and mix until the color of the mixture is uniform. And only then add water. This sequence is necessary for uniform mixing.

Important! The setting of the mixture begins in approximately 45 minutes, and ends after 2 hours. The solution acquires full strength in almost a month - in 28 days.

The consistency of the finished solution should resemble thick porridge. You can check it with a trowel. You need to run it through the solution. If the trowel mark does not float and the solution does not tear, it means that the amount of water is normal. If the solution floats, there is a lot of water, and if it breaks, there is not enough.

The importance of proper brick laying with your own hands

The safety of the building depends primarily on the correct laying of bricks. This process consists of several steps. Before starting masonry, a beginner should practice making individual objects - corners and pillars. Below is indicated step-by-step instruction do-it-yourself bricklaying. For convenience, it is described step by step.

Laying bricks dry

The essence of the step is to lay the brick “dry”. This is necessary for computational work and checking the correct installation.

Preparing the necessary tools.
Unpacking and checking the brick. You need to pay attention to both the color of the material and its size. It is better to take bricks from one batch.
Make sure the foundation or plinth is protected from moisture. That is, waterproofing is installed. This is necessary so that the brick does not draw out moisture.
Now you need to lay out the first row of bricks, without using mortar and scrupulous precision. It is necessary to use an object with a diameter of 8 mm (this could be a piece of reinforcement, for example). This is exactly the diameter that is needed, since it is equal to the thickness of the mortar between the bricks.
Now you can start laying out. We carefully lay the brick around the perimeter of the base, while carefully observing the gap and evenness of the masonry. Particular attention should be paid to the corners.
Now measurements are taken from corner to corner, and then diagonally. All data is recorded and verified with the data of the construction project.
At the corners, it is recommended to mark the plinth with a pencil where the edges of the bricks will be placed. If desired and have time, such markings can be made along the entire perimeter of the building.

Advice! To prevent the brick from “pulling” moisture from the mortar, it is recommended to first soak it in water for a while.

First row

We can say that this stage is the most crucial. And all because the rest of the layout depends on the correctness and quality of the laid out first row.

Stages of the second step:

The corners are laid out according to the marks made earlier. Their laying begins with two bricks placed at an angle of 90 o (checked with a triangle).
Bricks placed on the mortar must be carefully adjusted in height using a trowel or the blunt side of a pickaxe. It is important to use a level to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are placed at the same height.
In the same way, you need to lay bricks along the remaining corners of the building.
Now you need to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks. All other blocks of the first row will be aligned with it (both vertically and horizontally). The thread can be secured either in a row or using corners. It is important that the cord does not sag.
Then you can start laying out the remaining blocks of the crown. Using a trowel, apply the mortar, level it to a height of about 1.5 cm, lay the brick and be sure to level it both horizontally and vertically (using a mooring thread). You need to check the top with a building level. If necessary, it is possible to correct the brick by lightly tapping the blunt end of a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel. As a result, the thickness of the seam horizontally should be about 8-10 mm, and vertically - 8 mm. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
All other blocks of the first row are laid in the same way.
When the last brick of the crown is laid, a check is made. The height of all bricks must be the same and there should be no protrusion in any direction relative to the foundation.
If everything is in order, then you can begin laying out the corners of the second row, moving the mooring line and other work.

Bricklaying methods

After laying out the crown, the principle of operation does not change. But the masonry technology varies and depends on the plasticity of the solution. Let's consider two main methods:

"Suck it." This method allows you to work faster. It is mainly used for laying walls. Mooring cords are stretched along the outer and inner sides of the row. The cement-sand mixture is poured out and spread with a trowel over the previous row. The thickness of the solution should be slightly greater than planned. It is important that the solution also fills the joints of the previous row. Now take the block, tilt it a little with a poke, plunge it into the mortar and move it towards the already laid brick so that the mixture is “collected” onto the edge. This way it is possible to form both horizontal and vertical seams. The rest of the bricks are laid out in the same way. The blocks are adjusted by lightly tapping with a trowel or a pick-hammer, and the excess mortar is removed. If necessary, vertical joints are filled where there is not enough mortar.
“Pull in.” To use it, use a hard solution. It is more labor-intensive than other methods, but it produces the strongest seams. As in the previous method, the mooring cord is pulled, the mortar is laid out and leveled. Next, you need to turn the trowel on its side and carefully move it along the surface of the mortar, raking part of it towards the vertical side of the block to which the new one will be laid. As a result, an even side seam should form. Next, holding the mortar on the vertical side with a trowel, place the new block in the desired place and press it against the poke (spoon) of the adjacent block and the bed with the mortar. Then carefully remove the trowel. The following blocks are laid using the same technology. If necessary, you need to trim the rows with light blows with the handle of a trowel. Excess mortar is cut off with a trowel.

DIY brick pillars

Laying brick pillars with your own hands has certain features. For example, a brick needs to be impregnated with a special agent that will prevent the appearance of white spots (efflorescence). Necessary materials: brick, mortar, 4 metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm (15 cm longer than one side of the support), level, trowel, hammer and small stone (crushed stone can be used).

DIY brick laying steps:

A layer of insulation needs to be laid on the foundation. Next, lay out the first row of 1.5 or 2 bricks.
Then an offset of half a block is made. This is necessary to create a dressing.
Pieces of rod are laid on the solution. This is necessary for the evenness of the seams. Once the block is level, the rods are pulled out.
Excess solution is removed with a trowel. Every two or three rows, crushed stone is poured into the void of the post. It is recommended to use wire reinforcement.
Each row must be laid carefully. If necessary, trim with a hammer and check with a level.

To give a harmonious and respectable look, facing bricks are used. Laying facing bricks with your own hands is a little more difficult than laying walls. The tool remains the same, except that a template is added for more accurate masonry. The solution consists of cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1, respectively. To ensure that the color of the cement-sand mixture does not vary greatly, coloring pigments are added. Before laying out, the material must be soaked in water.

Important! Laying of facing bricks is carried out at a temperature of +5 C o.

The first step is to lay it out without mortar. This is necessary in order to calculate how many bricks need to be cut, which blocks will be used for laying door and window openings, and also to eliminate defects.

When all the ceramic products have been selected and trimmed, you can begin laying out.

Important! Under no circumstances should you use a metal disc or hammer. This may damage the material.

It must be taken into account that the size of the horizontal seam should be no more than 10 mm, and the vertical seam no more than 12 mm. The first row is laid out completely - from one side to the other. The solution must be applied with an indentation of 1.5 cm from the edge. But the laying of the next rows is different. Here, level masonry is necessary, and therefore measurements are required.

First you need to form corners to a height of 5-6 rows. Then the thread should be pulled between the blocks so that the layout is even. And now you need to do the seams. That is, using a special device, perform such actions so that the seam protrudes a few millimeters from the outside of the facing masonry. Next, the rows are laid out. A template is used for accuracy. It is important not to forget to wipe the lining with a damp cloth every 4 rows to remove dirt. It is best to remove it immediately if contamination appears.

Do-it-yourself bricklaying may seem difficult for an inexperienced person. But if you stick to technology, or even better invite experienced craftsman help, then everything will definitely work out.

Having your own home is not a cheap pleasure - especially when it is built from brick. Reducing construction costs by using lower quality materials is, frankly speaking, not the best solution.

All that remains is to learn the rules of bricklaying and try to build a home with your own hands. With the help of the video in this article, we will introduce you to the basics of masonry work, wall construction, and the architectural possibilities of brickwork.

Features of masonry

Both brick and concrete blocks, in construction they call stone - only artificial. Unlike natural stone, they have precisely defined geometric shapes, so when constructing walls you can do without formwork.

Advantages of brick

The rectangular shape and compact dimensions of the brick make this material the most convenient to use. It is laid on a mortar bed in an order determined by the thickness of the walls, the architectural features of the building, and the facial pattern of the masonry.

It allows you to create all kinds of building layouts, rounding walls, making different configurations of openings, varying floor heights, and much more. Brickwork can be made multilayer, which can significantly improve the thermal performance and sound insulation of walls.

Speaking about the advantages of brickwork, one cannot fail to note its decorative effect: it allows you to improve the aesthetics of the facade of not only a brick, but also any other house, and is also a full-fledged part of the design of premises.

Terms and Definitions

Before we present the rules and regulations for bricklaying, let's clarify what terms and definitions builders use. This is simply necessary, since it will be impossible for a person who does not understand what it is called and how to figure out how to make brickwork correctly.

So:

Let's start with the brick itself, which has three pairs of edges. For a single product, the two widest edges, 250 mm long and 120 mm wide, are called the bed. The long and narrow side edge measuring 250*65 mm is a spoon. Well, the short end edge, 120 mm wide and 65 mm high, is called a butt.

The masonry is carried out horizontally, with bricks laid on the bed. When making some architectural elements of the facade - for example: lintels or window sill areas, the brick can also be installed on a spoon, that is, on an edge. As for the rows of masonry, their name is determined by the way the bricks are arranged in them.

When they face outward with the spoon, they are called spoon-shaped. If the brick is located with the end side forward, then this is a butt row.

Depending on the thickness of the walls, the masonry section may consist of several rows. Those facing outwards, that is, the extreme ones, are called versts, which, depending on their location, can be external or internal. The rows between them are called backfilling - we will say more about them later.

What is backfilling

There is such a thing as backfill brick. This is not a specific type of brick, but rejection, or products with a lower quality front surface and slight deviations in geometry.

Manufacturers even specially produce backing bricks, making their edges embossed for better adhesion. The main thing here is that the price is lower, since the aesthetics of the product does not play any role in this case.

Note! Before work begins, the bricks are usually sorted. Unfired bricks, as well as products that have cracks and chips, are used for backfill rows, since they are completely hidden inside the masonry. The presence of external defects on them does not in any way affect the strength of the masonry. Considering the fact that the cost of rubble brick is lower than usual by 25-30%, in order to save money, good quality brick is used for laying versts, and rejection is used for backfilling.

Masonry structure

The height of one masonry row corresponds to the height of the stone, plus the thickness of the horizontal seam, which averages 12 mm. Since in addition to single bricks there are also one-and-a-half bricks, 88 mm high, and double bricks, 138 mm high, the height of the masonry row can vary not only because of the thickness of the mortar, but also because of the size of the stone.

Naturally, the number of rows in one square meter masonry will also be different. If a single brick is used, then thirteen rows are obtained per 1m2, from a one-and-a-half brick - ten, and from a double brick - seven incomplete rows. The thickness of the walls, which corresponds to the width of the masonry, is always a multiple of the size of half a brick.

Half a brick, or 12 cm, is the smallest masonry thickness, and it occurs only in interior partitions and decorative facade cladding. The thickness of the wall is one brick, corresponding to the full length of the brick. In this case, the width of the wall is laid either from one bonded row or from two spoon rows, which together with the seam give the same 25 cm.

The masonry is one and a half bricks thick and is made from a row of joints and spoons. Since both the one and the other row form the planes of the wall, they will both be versts - there are no backfills in such walls.

Backfill rows are present only in walls two bricks thick and higher. The classic layout of a wall with two bricks is as follows: there are rows of spoons from the inside and outside, and between them there is a backing row of butts.

Suture dressing systems

Seam dressing is the systematic laying of bricks, which is one of the most important nuances of masonry. Both vertical longitudinal and transverse seams are tied.

In the first case, this is necessary so that the monolithic structure does not split in height into two separate, thinner walls.

So:

With transverse ligation, the connection between individual masonry elements is ensured, and the loads that arise from uneven settlement of the building are distributed. To do this, the bricks of the top row are laid with offset edges relative to the vertical seams of the bottom row. Ligation of longitudinal seams is carried out by alternating spoons and pokes in rows.

When doing masonry, various dressing variations are used. The simplest masonry method that provides maximum accuracy is a single-row scheme, in which the position of the bricks in the rows alternates evenly. In this case, the vertical transverse seams should shift by 1/4 of a brick, and the longitudinal ones by 1/2 of a brick.
There are two types of multi-row system. In it, only every sixth row is stitched. With this scheme, the displacement of the seams is carried out by 1/4 of the brick in the joint row, and by 1/2 in the tray row. As for the longitudinal seams of this pattern, from the second to the sixth row they are not tied at all.

Note! The multi-row option seems more complicated than the single-row one. But in fact, when using this method, labor productivity increases significantly. The reason for this is the fact that there is no need to use half bricks to construct backfill rows.

In the process of erecting brick pillars, as well as narrow partitions, bricks are laid with butts through three rows, onto the fourth. Speaking about how to properly make brickwork, one cannot fail to mention the facing options, the most popular of which are presented above.

Decorative effect when cladding the facade, is ensured not only by alternating the position of the bricks in the rows, but also by different displacement patterns of vertical joints. By shifting them all the time in one direction, or alternating the direction of shift, as well as using bricks with different textures or colors, you can get different patterns on the masonry. To master these techniques, you need not just instructions on the Internet, but a real master class from a professional.

To improve the aesthetics of the facing masonry, the seams are beautifully decorated with jointing, giving them the shape of a roller, a concave semicircle, or a triangle. This is done using a special tool - jointing.

If the walls are supposed to be plastered, then try not to completely fill the seams with masonry mortar. They do this because the plaster adheres better to the textured surface.

Architectural masonry elements

A stone wall can be blank and smooth, or it can have openings that you need to be able to bypass beautifully. When laying such walls, a variety of elements can be made: ledges and edges, belts, half-columns with pilasters, and much more.

For example, ledges in masonry represent shifts of the facial planes in certain sections of the wall, inward or outward.

Trimmings are made in a similar way, only they have one feature: this part is a transitional element from a larger wall thickness to a smaller one. Most often, the edge can be seen at the transition from the protruding plinth to the wall. They are also satisfied with upper levels multi-storey buildings when you need to reduce the thickness of the masonry of the upper floor.

We think everyone knows what a niche is. They are often arranged on the inside, and contain various built-in equipment and cabinets. The term “pilaster” in architecture refers to an elongated, rectangular protrusion on the wall that imitates a column. This is a very beautiful element that can frame the entrance, or beautifully highlight window openings and corners of the building.

In a similar way, but only in a different form, they arrange pretenses. In this case, a certain row of bricks protrudes above the plane of the wall, which extend relative to the masonry by a third of their length. The overlap of one or several rows forms a cornice, or, for example, a belt that horizontally encircles the walls between floors.

For hidden installation of communication pipes and electrical cables, grooves in the form of grooves are made on the walls, which are then sealed flush with the masonry. The width and depth of the vertical furrow is made a multiple of half a brick. The height of the horizontal groove usually corresponds to a whole row of masonry.

There is also such a masonry detail as a pier, which, unlike others, is purely decorative elements, carries loads. The partition can be a rectangular column with smooth side edges, or have quarters on them, necessary for installing window blocks.

The quarters are arranged by extending the outer spoon versts beyond the surface of the masonry. The size of the protrusion corresponds to ¼ of the length of the brick - hence the name. To achieve maximum masonry strength, it is recommended to lay out the pillars in a single-row ligation pattern.

But since this requires the use of a considerable number of three-fours (three-quarters of a brick), craftsmen prefer to use a three-row system. In this case, only halves are added here and there to whole bricks. This applies not only to wall pillars, but also to the laying of brick columns.

Structural nuances of brick walls

Walls built from brick not only perform a load-bearing function, but also must provide the building with certain thermal characteristics. The thickness, height and length of the wall spans are selected so that these dimensions can also ensure the stability of the structure.

In general, strength stone walls depends not so much on strength characteristics constructive material, how much depends on the performance and quality of the masonry mortar. In buildings up to three floors high, the walls do not bear heavy loads. Therefore, their thickness is determined not based on strength, but depending on the design of the floors that will rest on them.

When it comes to residential buildings, then the spans of walls enclosed between two transversely adjacent walls usually do not exceed six meters. Their maximum height is three meters. Based on stability considerations, a thickness of one brick, that is, 250 mm, is quite sufficient. But given the high thermal conductivity of brickwork, it can be argued that such a house will be cold in winter.

This problem is solved by using slotted bricks, as well as using the technology of well masonry walls. In this case, two parallel walls are erected: one of one and a half bricks, and the other of half a brick, which are rigidly connected by transverse brick lintels. The cavities formed as a result of such installation, which are called wells, are filled with foam or loose insulation.

The so-called modernized masonry, which is the same brick wells, only filled not with insulation, but with lightweight concrete based on expanded clay or polystyrene, also has excellent thermal properties.

The wall can also have a layered structure, in which the walls are connected to each other not by brick lintels, but by metal or flexible fiberglass ties.

Most often, this option is used when simultaneously facing a load-bearing wall. decorative bricks. In this case, the insulation is no longer loose, but slab-based: mineral wool, PPS boards, foam glass, vermiculite.

Brick has long been one of the most popular artificial building materials in our country. Many buildings and structures were made with its help, so almost every self-respecting builder must know how to lay brick. This material is in demand not only as a base material, but is also used to decorate certain elements.

Bricklaying Tools

At a construction site, bricks are laid wearing special clothing and using construction tools. It is recommended to wear thick, long-sleeved clothing to prevent solution particles from getting on your body. They can have a negative effect on the skin. Protect your eyes with goggles, and protect your hands easily with thick mittens/gloves with a rubberized base.

It will not be possible to make masonry at a height of more than one and a half meters without a special platform or scaffolding, so you need to take care of their construction in advance. They are made from wooden beams and boards.

It is strictly prohibited to construct brickwork using an extension ladder or stepladder!

A minimum set of devices and tools will be required:

trowel/trowel triangular or quadrangular;
level, it is advisable to have one short up to half a meter and one long at least a meter;
a cord no less than the length of the wall;
device for unstitching;
pick for cutting bricks;
plumb line;
roulette;
square

A trowel is used in many operations. It is convenient for applying cement mortar and removing its excess. The back of her handle is used to knock down bricks in wet mortar.

Preparation of cement mortar

Correct masonry brick making is not possible without preparing a high-quality aqueous solution of sand and cement. It is customary to take the ratio of bulk solids from 1:4 to 1:6. If the packaging of cement says 400, then add no more than 4 portions of sand per serving. It is customary to add 5 servings to the “five hundredth” brand.

When mixing by hand, it will be more convenient to mix them dry, and then, adding several liters of water, form a slurry from the entire mass. The result is a mixture that can be held in the form of a cake on a trowel, but is relatively easily subject to plastic deformation when pressed.

When working with hollow material, penetration of the mortar into the cavities of the brick is not allowed. This can reduce the thermal insulation properties of the building. One specialist should not mix more than 40-50 liters of solution at a time, since at average consumption a large mass can quickly dehydrate and harden in the prepared container.

If several people are laying a brick wall, a concrete mixer will help them speed up. Its volume is selected in accordance with the professional capabilities of the involved specialists.

Variety of bricklaying tools

Most often, brick is used to lay smooth walls with one’s own hands; less often, it is used to form shaped structures. Therefore, its most popular form is a standard size beam with smooth edges and right angles. Manufacturers offer two large groups of products that differ in composition:

silicate group of bricks (based on lime and sand);
ceramic group (they use fired clay).

Clay-based material is divided into the following types:

facing (facing) brick;
ordinary (construction) material;
special (heat-resistant).

It is customary to build walls in ordinary blocks, on which it is subsequently planned to apply finishing material, for example, a layer of plaster or decorative cladding. The facing type is pre-fabricated in a uniform color with a high-quality surface. The material has a higher cost and does not require additional external cladding.

For facing bricks, prepare a solution with the addition of color to make the wall look uniform

It is customary to lay chimneys, stoves or fireplaces with special blocks. Fireproof properties make it possible to form the firebox into one brick, isolating it from external surfaces.

Several types of dimensions are used. The most popular are single format (250x120x65 mm) and one-and-a-half dimensions (250x120x88 mm). Both solid and hollow blocks are used in construction. The second type works better for thermal insulation.

For reference! How to insulate a brick chimney? Asbestos-cement sheets are used for non-residential buildings. Compared to conventional plaster, this material has 2.5 times higher thermal insulation properties, condensation does not collect on them and the sheets do not burn. The disadvantage of this method is the release of carcinogens when heated. For residential buildings, it is recommended to use metal sheets, which also prevent fire. To increase thermal insulation, you will need non-flammable insulation.

VIDEO: Mistakes of novice masons in brickwork

Types of masonry

There are several ways to lay a brick. The thickness of the wall or room partition will depend on this.

Brickwork is a structure made of bricks laid in a certain order and fastened together with mortar

Several techniques are traditionally used:

quarter brick - the beam is installed horizontally with an axis along the wall, resting on the smaller side, while the width of the wall or partition will be a minimum of 65 or 88 mm, depending on the type of material;
half a brick will provide a wall with a width of 120 mm, which is enough for summer buildings or as decoration for a cinder block wall;
single brick masonry is used for external walls, it will be 250 mm;
a wall width of one and a half bricks will provide better thermal insulation, as it is 340 mm;
for a two-story building, we lay a wall at least 510 mm wide in two bricks.

It is necessary to lay brickwork at temperatures above 5ºС, since at a lower value the solution may not provide high-quality adhesion.

Direct masonry procedure

Before laying bricks correctly, you must wait until the foundation has completely hardened. This will prevent the walls from sagging in certain areas, which can lead to the destruction of the structure. Under the first layer, waterproofing is laid out in the form of double lena made of roofing felt. It will create a barrier to moisture and will not allow the walls to get wet, absorbing water from the ground.

During the construction process, you yourself need to control the horizontal line for laying and the verticality of the corners. In the first case, a string stretched along the entire wall and a level help, and in the second, a plumb line is used.

The initial row laid on the foundation sets the tone for the entire wall, so it is important to approach its installation responsibly, avoiding distortions. A mortar is placed between the bricks, which should provide a gap of 5-6 mm. The rows have the same seam of 7-8 mm. It is advisable to control the first rows after each block using a level. It is necessary to apply a small amount of the solution to the sides of the laid bars.

Before making a wall, you need to mark the corners, bringing them to a height of three or four levels. Vertical seams should not be through; for this purpose, each block is shifted along its axis relative to the previous row. You can eliminate a bulge (protrusion of a section of masonry relative to the entire wall) or a depression in advance by applying a level vertically to the front side of the wall.

Use a trowel or trowel to place the mortar in place under the installation. It forms a “bed”, and when laying bricks on it with your own hands, there will be a gap of several millimeters. Tap the top surface with the trowel handle until the block sits at the level measured by the height of the stretched cord. We collect the protruding solution with a trowel from all sides.

It is more convenient to collect the mass from a bucket, and have a brick supply nearby. This saves time and effort. Every 4-5 rows we recommend laying a metal mesh to reinforce the layer. This approach minimizes the possibility of shrinkage cracks.

To lay brick corners after the fifth row, use a metal corner. It is fixed at the outside, and then the corner of the brick is brought from the inside until it touches. This ensures verticality.

Before working in dry weather, bricks are often soaked in water so that they are saturated with moisture.

The soaking process takes about an hour and allows you to avoid quickly drawing moisture out of the solution. The seam will harden under normal conditions. If there is no time to wait, then just pour water on the material from a watering can.

VIDEO: How to remove a corner from a brick

Seam selection

There are several types of seams, which are selected based on the possible further work with a wall.

Undercut

The mass of the solution is distributed evenly, occupying all the space between adjacent levels. Provides a smooth and even surface over the entire area. The technique is in demand when constructing the inner surface of stoves and fireplaces. The lack of relief on the inner surface does not allow soot to accumulate in the seams. Designers rarely use this type for decoration.

Convex/concave

Used exclusively for decorative purposes. A device made using a short tube with a diameter of 8-12 mm cut along the axis helps to provide such a relief. Depending on which side you use, you will get a U-shaped seam.

Pustoshovka

The mortar is placed on the site in such a way that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the brick, providing a technological gap of small depth. A similar relief is necessary for surfaces left under plaster. By clinging to the texture, the finish will hold on better.

The required amount of brick is calculated according to the table. It is advisable to prepare 10-12% more for the formation of complex corners and joints.

Before you start laying, you need to lay out the first two rows without mortar to determine the dimensions. When building walls, you should not use scraps or leftovers for window and door openings. And the last thing to remember is that the brick must dry before mortaring.

VIDEO: How to lay brick correctly. How to make perfect seams