How to build a frame house with your own hands. Frame houses: pros and cons of frame construction. Stages of frame construction

It’s not for nothing that frame houses are called energy efficient. Residential buildings of this type consume 30% less energy in winter than those built using conventional technology. The advantages include ease of assembly of structures, low weight and availability of materials. Assembling a frame house with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who has the skills to work with wood and stock necessary tools. Detailed information will help him with this step-by-step instruction.

Frames are erected on average in 2-4 months. The experience of cold Scandinavian and North American countries confirms the strength and durability of structures. In a short period of time, comfortable housing appears on the construction site, the price of which is 15-20% lower than that of brick or concrete. Construction in Russia frame houses gaining momentum. It is standardized by the document SP 31-105-2002, which is based on Canadian and American developments.

A frame house is a rigid system of support posts, horizontal and inclined connections, resting on a pile, pile-grillage, slab or shallow strip foundation. In the classic version, the space between the racks is filled with insulation. Most often - basalt wool. The outside and inside of the structure is sheathed with finishing materials.

Another way to build a frame house is to install walls and ceilings from rigid SIP panels, consisting of two OSB boards and a layer of polystyrene foam between them. Systems are assembled in different ways. In the first case, the frame is installed element by element or in blocks, and in the second, large-sized panels are mounted like a constructor, observing the sequence. The easiest way to assemble a frame house with your own hands is step by step installation supporting system, insulation and finishing. In this case, construction lifting mechanisms and a large team of workers will not be needed. All operations can be performed independently or with the help of 1-2 friends.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Step 1: Foundation for a frame house

A house on a frame is a lightweight structure that does not require a powerful buried foundation. Load-bearing capacity of piles or strip bases with a depth of up to 50 cm is sufficient to ensure that the load from the building is absorbed and transmitted to the soil.

Pile foundations are rods made of concrete, reinforced concrete or metal buried in the ground. Their advantages:

quick installation;
a small amount of excavation work or even its absence;
a short interval between the completion of the installation of foundations and further installation of structures.

An exception is the installation of monolithic piles and grillage. Here you need to wait until the concrete gains strength. This usually takes 1-2 weeks. Since the load will increase gradually, it is not necessary to wait until the standard period of 28 days to begin installing the frame.

Metal piles are screwed in using manual or mechanized drilling equipment. Ready-made concrete anchors are immersed into the drilled holes using driving or pressing equipment. The construction of such foundations takes 1-3 days and is carried out by specialized organizations.

Monolithic bored piles you can make it yourself. Concrete of a grade not lower than M 200 is used. For formwork, roofing felt rolled into a tube is used. It is placed in the hole, and a reinforcement frame of 3-4 rods is installed inside. The solution is poured into the cavity of the structure, compacting it layer by layer using a vibrating tool.

At the top of the piles, load-bearing crossbars made of metal, concrete or wood are mounted on the pile heads. In this case, the underground remains open.

Pile foundation with hanging reinforced concrete grillage.

The grillage connects individual piles into a rigid, stable system. May be:

hanging;
ground;
buried.

In the latter case, this is an analogue of a shallow strip foundation. It is constructed from monolithic reinforced concrete around the perimeter of the house and under load-bearing partitions. The pit is dug to a depth of 30-50 cm, filled with sand and crushed stone.

Formwork is installed on the cushion. Steel frames are placed inside, which are rigidly tied to the outlets of the pile reinforcement. To fasten the lower strapping beam, metal studs with a diameter of 12 mm with threads are prepared in advance. They are welded or screwed with wire to the frame rods every 150-200 cm along the length of the grillage. Fasteners should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the corners of the foundation and protrude above the upper edge of the structure by 13-15 cm.

Installation of a recessed grillage.

The installation locations of the racks are first marked on the formwork so that they do not coincide with the fasteners for the horizontal beam.

The surface of the base is treated with waterproofing mastic, 2-3 layers of roofing felt or other moisture-proof material are laid.

A monolithic foundation is arranged in a similar way. If the base is a slab, concrete is poured over the entire area of the house with a protrusion of 20 cm beyond the perimeter. The thickness of the structure is 10-20 cm, reinforcement is with welded mesh.

- almost finished base for the floors. Particular attention should be paid to insulation. Expanded polystyrene slabs are used, which are laid on crushed stone preparation. They are not afraid of moisture, do not rot, and retain their thermal insulation properties for 50 years.

When concreting monolithic slabs, sleeves are installed for supplying communications. They provide access when laying water or sewer pipes. Underground passages must be equipped in advance, otherwise it will be very difficult to install channels later.

In ground and shallow foundations installation of sleeves is necessary for ventilation of the underground space. In frame structures this is a very important point that cannot be neglected. Hoods reduce air humidity, which has a detrimental effect on wooden structures.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

The bottom frame, or bed, is a horizontal structure that transfers the load from the entire house to the foundation. It is made from well-dried edged boards 50x150 mm or timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm.

We install the harness and logs

Sequence of operations when installing the bed:

Lay out boards or beams treated with bioprotective compounds and fire retardants around the perimeter of the foundation. Trim off the excess.
Mark the bolt locations by laying a flat on top and lightly hitting each fastener with a hammer.
Use a powerful drill to drill holes in the dent areas. The diameter should be 3 mm larger than the bolt cross-section.
Insulation is laid on the foundation - fiberglass tape, and a bed is installed on top.
Screw the nuts onto the bolts with washers using an impact wrench or manually with a wrench.
Control horizontality bottom trim level or building level. If you need to change the position of the beam, loosen the nut, place wooden wedges and raise it to a new level. The gap is filled with liquid concrete.

In the corners, the beams are joined “half-tree” or with a root tenon.

Laying the bed.

The next stage after laying the bed is installing the floors. When installing a frame house using the “Canadian platform” method, they will serve as the basis for assembling wall blocks. If you plan to install the racks sequentially, it is more convenient to move around the finished floor than constantly climbing a stepladder.

Floors in a frame house are installed in three ways:

on the ground;
by lags;
on a finished slab foundation.

Floors along joists are installed in a house on a pile or strip foundation. In this case, a ventilated subfloor is formed between the bottom of the structure and the ground. Lags are laid in three ways:

rest on a bench and reinforce it on the outside with a façade board;
installed in the grooves cut out in the lower trim;
mounted end-to-end to the beam using metal brackets.

For logs, timber with a cross section from 110x60 mm to 220x180 mm is used, depending on the distance between the supports. The larger the span, the more powerful the element should be.

The laying step is 50-60 cm. In places where heavy equipment or furniture is installed, beams are installed more often - every 30-40 cm.

Installation of floor joists.

The procedure for carrying out work when installing a floor using joists on metal brackets:

Cut and cut the beams to the required length.
They are installed on galvanized brackets and secured with self-tapping screws or nails.
Skull bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are nailed to the bottom of the logs.
Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB sheets are laid on the bars. The flooring will serve as a base for the insulation.

When spanning over 2.5 m, spacers are installed between the logs - pieces of timber or boards that give bending rigidity to the system. They are secured with nails, nailing them into the end obliquely through the joist.

The spacing of the spacers depends on the span width:

2.5-3.5 m - 1 element;
3.5-5.4 - 2 boards;
5.4-7.2 - 3 spacers;
more than 7.2 m - from 4 pieces.

All wooden structures are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants before installation. This extends the life of the material and protects against rot, insects and fire.

Insulation and flooring

One of the main tasks if we are building a frame house is to reliably insulate all surfaces. Up to 10-15% of heat is lost through floors and basements, so special attention must be paid to the thermal insulation of structures.

The following materials are used to insulate wooden floors:

granulated - expanded clay, slag, vermiculite;
rolled - stone, glass, slag wool, polyethylene foam, cork;
slabs made of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, chipboard;
liquid - polyurethane foam, ecowool.

Waterproofing from dense films is spread over the flooring in 2 layers with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Granular, slab or roll insulation is laid in a thickness corresponding to the thermal calculations for the climate of a particular region. Usually this is 10-20 cm for mineral wool, 30 cm for expanded clay.

The materials are covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane, through the pores of which moisture can evaporate into the atmosphere. The film is secured with a stapler. To create a ventilation gap, counter battens are placed along the joists.

Important. If you do not create conditions for the evaporation of water in the underground space, over time the insulation will become damp and the wood will begin to rot.

Vapor barrier with ventilation gap.

The finishing coating with a soundproofing gasket is installed along the counter slats.

If foil materials are used for insulation, when laying them they are turned towards the room. This will reflect the infrared rays into the room.

Step 3: Frame Walls

Do-it-yourself frame house is assembled from individual elements, cutting and fitting them on the construction site. It is possible to install larger sections or even entire structures prepared at the factory.

Current prices for timber of various types

Frame assembly methods

Prefabricated buildings today are built in the following ways:

traditional - they sequentially assemble a frame from racks, crossbars, jibs, insulate the walls, install the sheathing;
using the “Canadian platform” method - sections are prepared horizontally on the rough floor and placed in the design position;
from SIP panels - large elements, cut at the factory, are assembled on site using connecting bars and polyurethane glue;
according to the German technology "half-timbered" - frame boards that are at the same time decorative finishing, placed outside the insulation;
according to Swedish technology - the frame is assembled from two battens, the first is intended for installing insulation and fastening the external finishing, the second is used for laying communications and installing internal cladding.

Installation of the frame using the “Canadian platform” method.

In private construction, for do-it-yourself assembly, the classic method is more often used, which does not require complex installation work and costs for lifting equipment.

Installation and section of racks

The installation steps for frame posts include:

Marking on the subfloor covering where the racks will be installed. Typically the step is 60 cm. This is convenient for subsequent laying of mineral wool slabs. In two-story buildings, the distance is reduced to 40 cm.
Cutting supports from dry treated boards 50 mm thick. The cross-section is selected based on load-bearing capacity.
Installation of racks in corners, leveling, securing with temporary jibs.
Installation of intermediate elements.
Connecting the supports with a beam of the upper trim.
Reinforcement of window and door lintels with boards laid on edge. If this is not done, the frame will become pinched when it bends, and cracks will appear on the glass, façade finishing and internal wall surfaces.
Reinforcement of the frame with jibs made of 100x25 or 150x25 boards, embedded in the upper and lower frames, perforated steel strips, and horizontal jumpers. Additional reinforcement is not required if the frame is sheathed with rigid sheets of OSB or multi-layer plywood.
Covering the beams of the upper and lower trim with a frontal board. It is recommended to lay a layer of basalt wool to insulate the structure.

To select the section of the racks, all the loads acting on the supporting frame are summed up. If the building is small, then with a height of up to two floors, the dimensions of the timber are:

for external walls - 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm;
for internal partitions - 100x50 mm.

The strength of such sections is quite sufficient to withstand vertical and lateral loads. During thermal engineering calculations, it may turn out that the placement of thermal insulation requires a greater than calculated width of the racks.

It is not advisable to increase the cross-section of the supporting beam. In this case, the insulation is laid in 2 layers - one between the frame posts, the second along the outer sheathing with dressing. This arrangement will help to avoid heat loss through wooden elements, corners, and frames of openings.

Jib or braces

Jib or braces are installed temporarily to give stability to the frame during installation or permanently so that the structure maintains its geometry for a long time.

The jibs in the frame are installed obliquely.

In order for the permanent jibs to fulfill their role - to provide rigidity to the frame, when installing them, follow the rules:

elements are mounted with an inclination of 40°-60°;
the thickness of the jibs is no more than 1/4 of the height of the rack section;
fastening the brace to the frame - only by inserting; with other types of joints, drying out of the wood leads to loss of stability of the unit;
the jibs are cut flush with the posts, strappings and jumpers;
At least two braces are installed on one wall, tilted in different directions;
They are nailed to the posts along the length with 2-3 nails.

Instead of jibs in the corners of the frame, you can use OSB-3 12 sheets. Diagonal rigidity of the structure will be ensured.

Corners of a frame house

The corner is one of the problem areas in a frame house. Installing timber without an additional insulating layer leads to the formation of a cold bridge. Wood has a higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool, so the wall in the corner of the room may freeze.

To prevent this from happening, structures are formed in one of four ways:

From two racks. The junction of two walls is reinforced with a finishing corner.

"California" corner. A board or strip of OSB is nailed to the inside of the outermost post. Insulation is inserted into the formed shelf.

Closed corner. The structure is formed by three boards connected by the letter P. In terms of the quality of insulation, this type of joint is better than the first; it requires laying an insulator on the outside.

"Scandinavian" corner. The warmest of the three options. They are assembled from three racks in such a way that cold bridges practically do not form.

The first two methods are more technologically advanced, but their thermal insulation qualities are lower. At the junction of the two walls there are through gaps that are very difficult to seal.

Step 4: Covering

The installation of a frame house ceiling is similar to the installation of a floor. Beams made of a board placed on edge, a wooden I-beam, timber or round timber cut on both sides are attached to the top frame.

The cross-section of plank structures is selected at the rate of 1/20-1/25 of the span width. For example, a room 6x4 m is covered with load-bearing beams 400 cm/20 = 20 cm high.

The installation step is 60-80 cm, the timber can be laid at distances of up to 1 m. It is advisable to connect the floor beams and frame posts into a single flat element during installation. This will add additional rigidity to the structure.

The elements are mounted on brackets end-to-end to the frame or laid on top and attached to a frontal board placed on edge.

Fastening beams with brackets.

Sequence of work:

A 50x200 mm frontal board is installed around the perimeter of the house.
A middle beam with a cross section of 50x200 mm is laid along the long wall.
The logs are installed in increments of 58 cm, securing their ends to the front board and the middle beam.
All nodes are additionally shot with a nail gun or nails are nailed by hand with a hammer.

Important. Fastening is allowed only with nails; it is not recommended to use self-tapping screws.

If the span width is more than 6 m, glued laminated timber is used. It consists of thin wooden slats and resists bending much better than solid wood structures.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

The rafter system of a frame house is installed in several stages:

We begin the installation of the drainage system and roofing material - metal tiles:

Hooks for drainage gutters are attached to the eaves strip with a slope towards the drainage pipes.
Lay the first four sheets of tiles without fastening. Align it along the end and edge of the cornice, screw it with self-tapping screws at the rate of 8-9 pieces per 2 m². Hardware is attached to the lower part of the wave using sealing gaskets made of rubber or polypropylene.
Install ridge elements and wind strips.

Current prices for tiles

Step 6: Insulation

Insulation of a frame house is carried out according to the following scheme:

Install a vapor barrier film along the inner contour of the walls. It will protect the thermal insulation from water vapor that penetrates from the warm room into the room and condenses in the thickness of the material. The junction points are glued with butyl rubber tape and fixed to the frame with a stapler.
To connect 2 sheets of film, double-sided tape is glued to the edge. Apply a vapor barrier with an overlap of 100 mm and press tightly.
Thermal insulation slabs, usually mineral wool, are cut to the size of the frame sections. The width of the material should be 10-20 mm greater than the distance between the posts. Cut the insulation with a knife or saw with fine teeth.
Install the slabs between the frame elements in 2 layers with an offset of at least 150 mm. The total thickness of the insulation is 200 mm.
A hydro-windproof membrane is laid on the outside to protect the thermal insulation from blowing out and getting wet. Attached to the posts with a stapler.
The joints are taped with double-sided tape.

Now you can start finishing work. If a developer plans to build a frame house, step-by-step instructions will help you understand the principles and nuances of its construction.

The construction of frame houses came to us from abroad. These easily erected structures are the basis for the construction of country houses and cottages in Scandinavia and a number of European countries. The basis of construction technology is assembled frames made of wood or metal profile, mineral wool and basalt insulation are used for insulation. The wall takes on a finished look after it is covered with various slabs, for example, DSP. The final coating is already applied to these slabs.

Which frame to choose - metal or wood?

As a material for the frame, new dried timber of various sections, made of coniferous species.

Undoubtedly, wood has a number of properties that give it advantages over stone and metal - this is the ability to breathe, and much more. But at the same time, wood has disadvantages; without appropriate treatment, it is prone to the appearance of fungus or mold; in addition, if a number of conditions are met, the possibility of the appearance of strains of harmful microorganisms arises.

All of these factors lead to the fact that some developers prefer frame structures made of metal. The metal profile has a zinc coating, which can guarantee long-term protection against corrosion. In addition, the necessary perforation has already been prepared on the metal profile for frame house construction.

The difference between frame housing construction and panel housing is environmental friendliness. Only natural wood and the possibility of using natural insulation.

In addition, a frame house can be built without the help of a large team.

Now it is believed that a frame-panel house can only be a country house. However, the experience of many European countries, for example, Swedish or German technology, tells us about the successful possibility of using a frame house in winter and summer for year-round living. Reviews also confirm this.

So, let's start building a house with step-by-step, step-by-step instructions. We hope they help you.

Preparatory work

Buying a frame house is not difficult; you just need to contact a specialized company that sells such products or, having developed a project yourself, build your own home. The order of construction work can be displayed in the following list:

Research;
Design;
Construction of the foundation;
Construction of a box, roof;
Insulation, finishing work and arrangement of engineering systems.

At the first two stages, the possibility of building a house in this place is clarified. If this is possible, then the type of foundation and its design are determined. As a result of this work, a specification and estimate appear, which contains a list of materials and tools, their estimated cost. Before starting all this preparatory work, the developer must draw up technical specifications for the future home.

Laying a columnar foundation

Depending on the condition of the soil and the mass of the future house, the developer determines the type of foundation. Practice shows that any type of foundation can be used - a foundation on screw piles, tape, monolithic platform or columnar. When building a columnar foundation, you must have at least an approximate drawing of the location of the walls.

The essence of this foundation is that the pillars will be placed in the corners of the building and in places of maximum load on the structure. For this type of foundation, concrete and brick are used.

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the pillars.

After it has been carried out and quality checked, you can begin to manufacture the pillars themselves. For this, you can use separate formwork, or you can arrange their production directly on the site.

The first step is to make a pole support, it is called a shoe. Look at the photo, it shows a schematic diagram of a pile with a shoe. Its dimensions are up to 30 cm in height and 25–30 cm in cross-section. Its design includes a reinforcing mesh, which is located parallel to the surface of the earth; several vertical reinforcing bars can be installed - they will serve as the basis for the pillar. After the shoe has hardened, the main part of the foundation column can be made. To do this, you can use either a piece of pipe or build a wooden formwork. The height of the entire structure is equal to the sum of two terms - the depth of the hole (freezing height) and the amount of the column extending above the ground (from 100 mm).

Some experts use traditional M300 grade concrete as a material, while others use sand concrete. In fact, the type of concrete used must be determined at the calculation stage. The main thing to remember is that the material for making the shoe and the base must be the same. For further work It is necessary to allow the finished parts to dry. This process will take at least 7 days, but using bricks or cinder blocks will speed up the drying process by several days.

Once the pillars are ready, you can begin installing them. To do this, you will need a hole drill, which will allow you to dig a hole under the post. The size of the hole must exceed the size of the shoe. The installation of pillars is carried out in strict accordance with the markings of the foundation. The pillars are installed at a distance of 1–2 m from each other in places of greatest load, for example, under a heating boiler. After installing the pillars, the space between them and the walls of the pit can be filled with crushed stone and sand.

Construction of wall frames

Grillage - platform for the home

Completion of the foundation construction allows work to begin on the construction of the main load-bearing structures. The basis of the walls and everything else in a frame house is the grillage. This is a wooden or metal structure that is laid on foundation pillars protruding from the ground. Along its contour, the grillage follows the outline of the future house. When laying it, it is imperative to use measuring instruments that allow you to control its horizontalness. The dimensions of the timber or metal profile are determined by the weight of the building structure being erected.

Construction of a wall frame

After installing the grillage, you can begin installing the wall frame. For this, you can use timber with section dimensions of 150x50 or more. The timber must be made from coniferous trees and dried to a moisture content of 12–18%. In addition, we must remember that all wooden structures must be treated with protective agents against mold, mildew and fire.

The wall frame can be assembled nearby on a flat piece of land; when assembling the frame, it is necessary to immediately prepare window and door openings. The finished frame of one wall can be installed on a grillage and secured with jibs. As with all assembly operations, builders must use a measuring tool to install wall frames in strict plane orientation.

House roof installation

Creating a roof is one of the most important moments when building a house using frame technology. Errors that occur during its construction lead to deformation of the roof and violation of the thermal insulation regime. As a result, its destruction may occur. The ceiling is responsible for solving several problems, namely:

Hanging a ceiling covering on it;
Insulation retention.

If the developer provides for the presence of a second floor or attic, then the ceiling must be reinforced. Depending on the load that the ceiling will take on, the cross-sectional size of the ceiling beam is selected. For example, if the useful and non-residential load is 147 kg per square centimeter, then it is necessary to use beams with a section of 150 * 50 m with a pitch of 400 mm between them.

The process of installing joists and rafters for them is no different from the process carried out during the construction of a traditional house.

That is, after marking, the logs are nailed to the top plank of the wall frame in a vertical position.

In order to secure the lag, it is enough to use three nails, two are driven in on one side, and one on the other, at both ends.

The rafters can be assembled on a flat area of the construction site and, after they have been assembled and checked for correctness, lifted up. The assembly of the roof begins with one of the facades; the use of a plumb line is mandatory. Having placed the first rafter, it is necessary to fix it with jibs, and after installing the second, it is advisable to tie the installed structures together. In addition to the fact that the rafters are connected to each other, to increase the strength of the structure, it makes sense to connect the rafters and joists using a vertically lowered board. This is how the rafters are installed sequentially.

The installation of sheathing is also no different from such an operation carried out when erecting a roof on a regular house. Laying of hydro- and thermal insulation is carried out in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product. Both artificial and natural materials are used as thermal insulation materials. To reduce the weight of the structure, it is advisable to use polystyrene foam, which is produced in sheets of different thicknesses.

Another positive property of a frame house is that all finishing work can be carried out without waiting for it to shrink. You can begin to carry them out immediately after insulation has been laid in the openings and the wall frame itself has been covered with slabs. Then the developer can begin finishing the walls inside and out.

Interior work in the house

The material that is used to cover the walls from the inside, and this can be DSP or its analogues, allows you to apply almost any type of material to its surface. finishing material– wallpaper, tiles and others. It all depends on the choice of the developer and the interior design of the future premises.

Exterior works

With work on finishing the house outside, the situation is somewhat more complicated. Depending on the climate zone in which the frame house is built, additional insulation may be required. For these works you will need insulation, a waterproofing film, as well as a wooden beam or galvanized metal profile to create the sheathing. To insulate the walls, a sheathing made of wooden beams or metal profiles is installed on them.

The dimensions of the sheathing must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation that will be laid in it. Some experts recommend laying a layer of waterproofing film on top of the insulation. If the task is to create a ventilated facade, then it is necessary to attach smaller beams to the vertical beams of the installed sheathing, and the siding will be attached to them. The created space will serve for natural ventilation and prevent excess moisture from accumulating.

How much does it cost to build a house

The experience of erecting a frame house by those who rely only on their own strength shows that the entire cycle of work from building the foundation to the start of finishing, with proper organization of labor, no interruptions in materials and the presence of one or two assistants, can take three to four months.

Building a house with your own hands is also beneficial from an economic point of view. Buying finished design, the developer pays for the project, construction materials, in addition, the labor of builders and installers, by the way, who will build the house in approximately the same time frame, is paid. The project price ranges from 5-50,000 rubles. If you buy a ready-made house project, it will cost about 15,000 rubles, and if you order an individual house project from an architect, it will cost 30,000 - 50,000 rubles. Nowadays, many architectural studios work remotely, so even if they are in Biysk, they will be able to design your dream home project. In other words, with the cost of a finished house and the work on its construction being approximately 1.5 million rubles, you need to understand that this figure depends on the region and the configuration; building it yourself will cost half as much. For example, some companies offer their clients country houses at a price from 1,115,000 rubles to 1,824,000, and dachas - within 300,000 rubles.

If you are not ready to build a house or you don’t have the opportunity, then order a turnkey house using Canadian, Scandinavian or Finnish technologies.

Video

Watch a video about building a frame house with your own hands.

Despite the fact that the general construction season is ending, some developers continue to build houses. How can this be, since with the arrival of cold weather, construction usually comes to a standstill, the unfinished project is mothballed and waits for the next season? All this is true when it comes to brick, stone or block buildings. However, frame houses can be built all year round. Therefore, if you have not yet managed to acquire your own home this year, do not despair - find out how to build a frame house in one season!

What is the essence of frame buildings?

First, let's look at frame technologies. What does "frame house" mean? These are, as a rule, wooden buildings, which are based on a frame. The frame can be made from dry solid or laminated veneer lumber. It is installed on the foundation, fixed to it using strapping. All work can be done with your own hands, since working with wood does not require any special skills that the average man does not possess. We will look at how to assemble the frame correctly later.

The next stage is insulation and waterproofing. We insulate the frame so that the wall looks like a multi-layer cake. Insulation, most often mineral wool, is fixed on the frame. It is overlapped and glued. You can use rolls, mats, liquid alluvial, polystyrene foam and other types of insulation. The outside of the house can be additionally insulated with foam boards, providing wind protection and sound insulation.

Waterproofing is carried out with films and membranes. They protect the walls from moisture getting inside.

Vapor barrier in a frame house is an important element of the wall. Without it, the wall becomes covered with condensation, and in addition, moisture accumulates at the dew point, which is located at the center of the insulation. As a result, the insulation quickly becomes unusable, and the walls become covered with fungus and mold. Good vapor barrier acts as ventilation gaps, but this applies to modern membranes, not films. Films are significantly cheaper, but not as functional. A properly assembled wall pie guarantees the warmth of the house and reduces its energy loss.

At the next stage, we cover the filling of the wall with OSB-3 sheets. It is advisable to foam the joints, ensuring that there are no cold bridges.

Next we carry out the interior and exterior finishing. The inner wall is most often covered with wallpaper, and the outer side is painted. However, you can also use siding, block house, stone finishing, “brick-like”, “beam-like” and any other.

You can read about Finnish houses built using frame technology. And about Canadian frame houses -.

The foundation for a house is the basis

Despite the fact that there is a huge selection of foundations for a frame house, experts recommend choosing strip foundations. The strip foundation has undeniable advantages:

can be done by hand
inexpensive
reliable
it's quite easy to do

So, if you decide to make a strip foundation with your own hands, you will first have to work with the site. Determine where your house will be located, taking into account the neighbors, the fence, the installation of a septic tank, the location of the well, etc. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances, check whether it will be convenient for transport to enter, whether there is enough space for other buildings if you want to build a garage or bathhouse later . It is advisable to have the area level; you may have to use equipment to level it by removing the top layer.

When the area is prepared, we begin marking. You should already have a ready-made project or plan with the dimensions of the house. Based on these parameters, using rope and pegs, we mark all load-bearing walls.

Next, if we decide to do everything ourselves, we need to either take a shovel or hire equipment. We dig a trench under the foundation, about 40 centimeters wide. Next, we install the formwork, which you can buy, rent, or assemble with your own hands from boards. The formwork should rise above the ground by about half a meter - a high foundation looks more beautiful and protects less durable walls from snow.

The finished formwork, if it was made by hand, must be covered from the inside with film, fixing it to the formwork. This is necessary so that liquid cement does not seep into the cracks between the boards, and it will be easier to remove the formwork - the cement will not stick to the rough wood. Under the weight of cement, the self-contained formwork can split, and the film will hold the cement mortar.

If you have clay soil, add 20 centimeters of PGS to the bottom of the trench. Pour cement over the sand to the edge of the formwork. This must be done quickly, as the cement hardens. Most likely, you won’t be able to do it alone, and you’ll have to call two or three people for help.

Let the foundation harden, this will take at least a week. If the forecast is for rain, cover the surface with film. We leave the foundation for the frame house for about a month, and only then can we do the strapping.

A strong frame is the key to a strong house

As the name itself suggests, frame houses are houses built on a frame. Thus, the frame is the main element of the entire building, so it must be mounted correctly.

How to make a harness - read here. When the piping is ready, we begin the construction of the future wall. You can mount a wall using the following timber elements:

racks
braces
inserts
cross members

All these are elements of the wall. The racks are a vertically placed beam, which is located between two trims - lower and upper. The top trim refers to the floor beams.

Braces are timber placed at an angle between the posts. They are also fixed to the top and bottom trim (not to the posts, as some people mistakenly assume).

Inserts are small pieces of timber used to provide additional strength to the frame.

Cross members are timber placed strictly horizontally between vertical posts. They are fixed on racks.

The racks should be knocked down with 80 mm nails, at a distance of 450 mm from each other. They are nailed to the harness with 2 120 mm nails on top and 2 of the same on the bottom. Using metal corners, the structure can be made stronger. All materials used in construction must be treated with a septic tank.

Particular attention must be paid to the corners. Here it is necessary to strengthen the racks with jibs.

Don’t forget to check the geometry of the house after each stage - all horizontal beams should lie strictly horizontal, and vertical beams should lie straight up. The piping must be laid evenly, and for this, the surface of the foundation must be flat around the entire perimeter - an error of 1 cm is allowed. The upper piping is also checked with a level. If there are errors on the foundation, it is topped up with cement to level it out. If the level shows slight unevenness, we use parts of the timber, having previously treated it with a septic tank, and level the surface. We check the evenness of the walls with a plumb line.

All components of a frame roof

The roof is the most important element, and in a frame house the roof can be installed with your own hands if you have some experience. However, before installing the roof, it is necessary to make the top trim of the walls and check its level. How the overlap will lie depends on the evenness of the strapping. If there are small irregularities, we eliminate them with our own hands by placing wood chips under the lower part.

There are two ways to install the rafter system:

layered method
hanging

Both types rafter system are used in frame construction, but the beams in a hanging rafter system rest on the mauerlat. The Mauerlat is made by hand; it is a timber beam with a cross-section of 10.0×10.0 cm, which is arranged around the perimeter of the building and fixed to the surface of the load-bearing walls on the top row of the frame. On the upper side, the rafter legs are attached to each other using a ridge beam.

The inclined structure is made with your own hands in a different way; it is not attached by rafters to each other in the upper part. The rafters rest at the top on the longitudinal central wall or specially provided support columns.

Which rafter system to choose in your case will be determined by the dimensions of your building. The hanging roofing system is suitable for small buildings, the distance between the load-bearing walls of which is no more than 6 meters.

First you need to assemble the rafter legs in the amount of 2 pieces. Ties are necessary to connect the first rafter legs in their lower part; they are attached using anchor bolts to rafter legs. The legs are placed against the Mauerlat and secured using sawn grooves. We cut out the grooves of the correct shape with our own hands. Rafters are installed in the grooves, the distance between which depends on the size of your roof. The approximate step is about 1 meter.

If your roof is higher than three meters, pay attention to rafters with a vertical direction.

Thus, the frame of your roof will consist of:

rafters
support board
ridge beam
racks
attic floor beams that overlap above the internal load-bearing wall
run
rafter leg
bed
contractions

When the roof frame is assembled, it is necessary to make lathing. This is the most important element of the roof, so when doing it yourself, be careful and careful: the sheathing is not only necessary for fastening the roofing material, but also for tying together all the structural parts of the roof frame. The lathing ensures the stability of the frame, so before installing it, it is necessary to organize a temporary strapping on the bottom side. The sheathing can be:

solid
intermediate

The choice of type of lathing primarily depends on the material with which the roof will be covered. Continuous sheathing is performed for soft roof, which is best suited for a frame house. Metal tiles or slate can be laid on the intermediate sheathing.

Basic rules of frame construction

Frame house is the best choice

To avoid getting a frame house of poor quality, you must follow some rules:

Only high quality materials. If you choose wooden construction, use either glued laminated timber, or technically dried timber, or do not undertake construction at all. The timber sold at sawmills is raw - after 3 years of operation, 90% of the timber will crack, and the remaining 10 will twist so that the screws are pulled out.
If you don’t know how to do it yourself, trust the professionals. Do not experiment with complex construction work - entrust something to the specialists. This is especially true for work at heights, electrical wiring and other complex, narrow-profile work.
Don't skimp on the little things. You won’t save much on small things, but you can significantly damage your future home. This primarily concerns wood impregnation. Make two layers, and choose European fire protection.
Down with Chinese materials. Do not buy Chinese insulation and insulation, they are not only of low quality, but also emit harmful substances. European materials have confirmed certification and safety class.

Construction of a frame house allows you to quickly solve a housing problem, save on materials and do the work yourself. Assembly takes only 2-3 months, and wood costs are reduced by almost half (compared to timber buildings). You can build a frame frame without serious experience in construction - step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

There are several technologies for building a frame house: Canadian, Finnish, German, using a wooden or metal base. But in any case, the design includes the following elements:

top and ;
vertical racks;
rafter system;
heat and sound insulating layer;
internal and external cladding.

Wall thickness depends depending on the region of construction and purpose of the house– for temporary or seasonal residence. The set of materials is standard: wooden beams, boards, OSB panels, moisture-resistant plywood, insulation, fasteners. Specialized tools are not required, but sometimes equipment may be needed to install large elements.

Preparation for construction

The basis of a frame house is wood materials, which excess humidity is harmful. It is important to choose the right site for development - dry, without wetlands, and not flooded during rain. It is necessary to first level the ground, remove debris, and prepare passage for trucks.

The second stage is development. It is better to entrust this task to specialists who will take into account existing building codes and coordinate documents with permitting authorities. If your skills allow, you can take standard project and adapt it to your own needs. The main thing is not to forget about utilities and take into account the recommended dimensions of the house.

Important! To quickly build a frame house, be sure to draw up an estimate and describe all stages of the work. You can use the following step-by-step instructions as a basis.

Stages of frame construction

Wooden structures are subject to biological destruction and are not resistant to fire. To solve this problem, use flame retardants and bioprotective compounds. It is most convenient to use a complex product that protects against fire, woodworms and rot. Treatment with impregnations is necessary at every stage of construction of a frame house.

Foundation structure

The frame weighs much less than timber or brick house, so a lightweight foundation is sufficient for it.

The most popular option is tape. To equip it, they dig a trench along the markings of the future house, install wooden formwork in it, fill it with concrete mortar, and compact the mixture. For compaction, hand tools or special vibrators are used.

In second place is - bored or screw. In the first case, the piles are driven into pre-drilled holes, in the second they are screwed in manually or using special equipment. A grillage in the form of a ribbon is arranged on top of them thickness 200-400 mm and height 200-300 mm. It binds the piles into a single whole, increasing the strength of the structure. When settling in pile foundation It is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil and strictly follow the technology. Otherwise, the soil will swell and loosen the piles.

Slab foundation– an excellent option for those who decide to build a frame house with their own hands. A slab poured from concrete compensates for seasonal expansion of the soil. The recommended height is 250-500 mm. Most practical insulated Swedish stove(USHP), consisting of several layers:

compacted sand bedding;
rigid foam 200 mm thick;
reinforced concrete mixture;
heated floor pipes;
leveling screed.

USHP combines the foundation, monolithic floor and heating system. But such a foundation requires large financial investments.

One of the most affordable foundations - columnar. It consists of small posts installed on the ground or buried in it. Columnar foundation easy to do with your own hands, but due to its low reliability it is only suitable for domestic buildings.

Subfloor installation

There are two types of wooden subfloor:

supporting structure is used in combination with strip or pile foundation;
the lattice structure is used in tandem with a slab or concrete screed.

In the first case, the horizontal level is maintained at the stage of arranging the base or grillage, in the second - at the stage of pouring the base.

Subfloor laying technology resembles a wall construction scheme. First, a load-bearing base is installed - joists and cross members. If necessary, the logs are overlapped. To strengthen the structure, additional spacers are used. At the same stage, engineering structures are laid: water supply, gas pipelines and sewerage.

Construction of the frame

The frames of prefabricated houses can be metal or wood. If you do not have construction experience, it is better to order a ready-to-install factory kit. Otherwise it is necessary to follow assembly technology. There are two options:

assemble all elements at the installation site;
gradually assemble the walls on a horizontal surface and install them in place.

The second method is more convenient and productive - especially for metal frames. To assemble the latter, a welding machine is used.

The construction of the frame takes place in several stages:

Bottom harness. The size of its cross section depends on the type of foundation. The harness is placed above the ground level, thoroughly treated with antiseptics and waterproofed.
Frame each wall. The strut pitch is 60 cm with plank cladding and 62.5 cm with panel cladding. The latter exactly corresponds to the standard dimensions of the OSB board. At the installation stage, temporary braces are often installed. The maximum load falls on the corners, so the most durable materials are used for their production.
Top harness. The choice of material depends on the load that the structural element will bear. With high strength, the metal requires a lot of drilling and is expensive. More convenient to use wooden beams, single or double boards. Their thickness depends on the area of the house.
Floor beams. When building a frame house, reinforced concrete floors are not used - they weigh too much. Best suited for this purpose boards measuring 50*200 mm or paired boards measuring 50*150 mm. The pitch varies from 40 to 60 cm. Internal partitions. They can be plank (one- or two-layer), frame-sheathing with or without insulation. Dry lumber, plywood, chipboard, plasterboard, and OSB are suitable for the construction of partitions.

Several technologies are used to connect wooden elements: joint at an angle of 90°, joint with cutting at 45°, half-wood joint, tongue-and-groove joints.

Roof arrangement

Erection of the roof is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame house. You should determine in advance its type, type of rafter system, and cladding material. A gable roof is well suited for a frame frame. with a slope of no less than 28 and no more than 50 degrees.

For the rafter system you will need boards section 50*150 or 50*200 mm– dimensions depend on the design load and the insulation used. The standard pitch is 60 cm. Two boards are connected on the ground, the finished structure is lifted onto the roof and mounted on the top frame with an overhang of 35-70 cm. To ensure that the roof is level, the rafters are installed first on the gables, and then in the middle. The final stage is the installation of thinned or continuous sheathing, on top of which the roofing material is attached.

Insulation and frame covering

The finished frame is treated with antiseptics, dried well and sheathed with OSB boards. The resulting cells are filled with insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the layer depends on the purpose of the house - for permanent residence, at least 15-20 cm is required. The wall cake looks like this:

wind-waterproofing;
external cladding - slabs;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
internal cladding made of gypsum plasterboard or OSB+gypsum plasterboard.

For exterior decoration use siding, wood or fiber cement panels, plaster, decorative brick.

Interior decoration

This is the finishing frame house. Light walls do not shrink, so you can immediately begin finishing. It takes place in several stages:

Final arrangement of the floor. First they mount wooden base made of boards with a cross section of 50-150 mm– their ends are laid on support beams or on the foundation. The lower part of the logs is covered with waterproofing, followed by insulation, vapor barrier, boards or OSB. Flooring– linoleum, laminate or parquet.
Ceiling lining. The sheathing is attached to the support beams and laid in the resulting sections vapor barrier and insulation. The layers are covered with plasterboard or other board material.

If you follow construction technology, a frame house will serve you for many years. The main thing is to choose the right project that meets the climatic conditions of the region and regulatory requirements.

Prefabricated buildings have already won their place in the sun in the housing market. Warm, light, luxurious, they have two significant advantages in conditions of constant crisis - reasonable cost and the possibility of independent construction. To build a frame house with your own hands, you need to step by step understand the essence of the technology so that the object meets all the requirements for safety and comfort.

The principle of frame construction

As the name suggests, the object is built on a wooden frame. The walls consist of numerous stiffening ribs and insulation. Finish coating – panels, slabs. The advantages of a frame house are increased heat capacity, lightness and reasonable cost, especially for young families.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to obtain a professional project, since frame technology structurally complex. Drawings and plans are verified according to studies of the site, soil and area as a whole - the future facility must meet increased safety. This is the only point that should only be dealt with by specialists.

In addition, the received document must be agreed upon with the utility services whose resources pass through the site, and registered with the BTI or a similar city office. Unfortunately, it is impossible to do without bureaucratic delays.
When all the necessary paperwork is completed, the construction stages begin.

Frame house foundation

It is impossible to deviate from the type of platform designated by the project - sometimes a poured base is required. But, as a rule, for a frame house they choose piles or steel, the pillars are reinforced concrete or self-assembled from brick.

Operating procedure:

The area is cleared of vegetation with special care. Plants are uprooted and the root system is sprayed with chemicals in order to stop future growth - plant moisture is detrimental to the wooden frame. The soil is leveled and compacted.
Marking. It consists of setting the perimeter according to the project and marks for installing piles or pillars. To do this, stakes with a stretched cord are installed in the corners. The pitch between the supports is from 0.7 to 1.2 m, depending on the dimensions of the residential building. The racks must be located under the load-bearing walls of the house.
Installation of piles or pillars. For the first option, digging holes is not required. It is enough to set the piles at right angles to the ground and screw them to a depth greater than the freezing level - the length is selected in advance. The work is done independently or with the help of equipment. The second option of supports requires depressions in the ground, their depreciation, reinforcement and filling. They also work with bricks.

Harness

The lower beam must be of an impressive cross-section - from 150 mm, since it will bear the entire load of the object. Before laying, all wood is impregnated with antiseptic agents, and the heads of piles or pillars are waterproofed with mastic and covered with roofing felt.

Installation of timber around the perimeter is carried out by cutting down half a tree. Fixation and reinforcement - with nails and steel corners. The wooden beam is attached to the base with screws or anchor bolts– special grooves are provided in the piles for this purpose.

The foundation is almost ready. A larch board is laid on top of the wooden beam - this species is generally insensitive to natural phenomena - precipitation, freezing, cracking - and will reliably protect the top wood.

Maintaining walls

The corner posts are installed first. Their standard size is indicated in the project - the timber for one floor should not be less than 100 mm in cross-section. They are secured with steel angles, the cutting method, and anchor bolts. Then stiffening ribs are installed - boards up to 5 cm thick. For their reliable fixation, each element is equipped with a jib - a diagonal strip.

Places for technological openings - windows and doors - are equipped immediately, since a frame house gives little shrinkage, unlike log and lumber objects. To do this, shortened racks are mounted under the windows and a box is immediately installed for inserting future windows.

According to the project, the internal walls are built immediately in the same way as the external ones - racks, jibs. To save material and if the house is planned to be built on one floor, use timber or boards of a smaller cross-section. Otherwise, retreat from common project- it is forbidden.

Install the upper trim beam. This is an equally important design, so a beam similar to the bottom trim is used for it and the lumber is fixed with a notch, corners, brackets, and self-tapping screws. For greater reliability, the methods are combined.

Construction of a gable roof

The roof is laid out in the same way as the walls. Of course, construction is not carried out alone, however, and does not require a large number of assistants. A couple of people will get by on their own.

The roof construction stage requires a separate description, since it includes a large amount of information. You can find the construction process in the article:.

Exterior finishing

When the frame has received visible outlines, it needs protection from natural precipitation - wood is sensitive to moisture - insulation and exterior finishing. The roofing material is laid first. It is chosen depending on the type of roof and the angle of inclination of the slope - flat ones require smoothness, steep ones - structural coverings are possible.

A variety of raw materials are used for work - siding, block house, fiber cement panels, lining. The materials are united by ease of installation - all units have locking grooves and ridges. Installation is carried out from below, and finally the house is decorated with corners, slopes, ebbs and other fittings.

Waterproofing and wind protection are laid on the walls and vertical sheathing is installed - wooden house As many ventilation ducts as possible are required to prolong the life of the wood. detailed instructions installation of siding is included in the construction materials, so there should not be any difficulties.

Insulation and protection

Walls require special treatment. After finishing, it is important to protect them with a cake consisting of several layers in this order - the insulation itself, the vapor barrier and the finishing coating.

There is no need to hesitate - it is important to carry out the work quickly in order to avoid damage to the material, if it is traditional to use basalt wool for the main layer. It is dense, voluminous, not subject to burning and deterioration. However, it has a serious drawback - caking even from a small portion of condensate.

Therefore, if construction is delayed, it is worth considering other types of insulation:

Expanded polystyrene boards. The air enclosed in the shell is securely retained by the 5-cm thickness similarly brickwork 30 cm. Disadvantage - it does not burn, but smolders, releasing toxic fumes into the atmosphere. The advantages, in addition to high heat capacity, are absolute inertness to moisture and durability.
Sprayed extruded polystyrene foam. Reliably closes all joints and cracks. Only performed by professionals as automatic installation is required.
Ecowool. Absolutely clean environmental material, applied with special devices similar to polystyrene. The disadvantage is the high price.

The time for interior decoration will come last. A frame house accepts any interior and materials for decorating walls, ceilings and floors. Creating a unique interior look of your own home is always interesting, so there is no need to rush.