How to install laminate flooring step by step. How to lay laminate with your own hands: methods and schemes. Installation of thresholds and elimination of joints with other floor coverings

It has become a popular service in the market. Naturally, not everyone is ready to contact the construction teams that carry out laying work. How to make styling with your own hands quickly and without problems - we give a simple step-by-step instruction.

Types of laying laminate

There are a number of installation methods. The most common ones are:

traditional;
diagonal.

Recently, a herringbone method has appeared, but it is quite complicated and requires special skills and labor-intensive work. Therefore, it is usually preferred to assemble the laminate using only the two methods mentioned above.

Diagonal laying of laminate allows you to visually make the room larger and more spacious. However, for it you will need to purchase more boards, as a lot of material will go to trim.

Types of installation of finishing boards

There are only two of them too:

adhesive connection;
lock connection.

The advantages of a lock connection- ease of assembly, speed of work. In this case, the laminate boards have special grooves and spikes that are inserted into each other, forming a kind of lock.

The advantages of adhesive bonding in that it makes floors more resistant to moisture, as it eliminates the risk of water entering the grooves and gaps that are still formed when laying the laminate. Installation becomes more labor intensive. But this is justified in a number of rooms - especially in the kitchen, where the likelihood of water spillage is high.

Overview of laminate locks (video)

Material calculation

Substrate laying

A substrate is laid on the prepared floor surface. It's easy to do it yourself. The main thing is that the size of the substrate must match the size of the floor. Lay the material without overlap, end-to-end. If the substrate is sheet, then it is laid with an offset - like bricks are laid in the walls. The joints between the edges of the substrate are fixed with adhesive tape so that it does not move out. After that, the actual laying of the laminate begins.

Substrate under the laminate (video)

Connection types

If adhesive bonding is selected, sealant is applied to the locks before assembly. If the laminate has locks, then each board is attached separately, and the joint is made with the adjacent board and the top row of boards. If the connection is "click", then first the boards are attached to the ends, and then row by row.

Laying in the traditional way

This method is the easiest and you can do it yourself without any problems. The instructions for laying laminate flooring say that work must begin from the wall and perpendicular to the window.
The first row must be assembled close to the wall, taking into account the compensation gap of 15 mm. Wedges are used to keep the gap unchanged. In this case, the board is placed so that the grooves are located against the wall.
Next, we lay our laminate in the first row - the second board is attached to the first board placed at the end. Immediately use a level to align the slats so that they are perfectly straight. Boards should go in a straight line, strictly perpendicular to the window to the opposite wall.
The last board rarely fits the wall perfectly and will have to be cut. Therefore, first, the distance to the wall from the already installed board is measured along the floor, taking into account the compensation gap. Then the board is marked and cut off with a jigsaw.
The second row fits in the same way. Starting work can be carried out from an already cut piece of board to save material. The spikes are inserted into the grooves and snap into place.
After laying a row of boards, they are inserted tightly to each other - for this, a wooden hammer and a wooden bar are taken. The bar is applied to the board and it is tapped with a hammer - then the lock joint will converge tightly and the gaps between the boards will not be visible.
So it is placed behind a row. The last row may not fit entirely and then you have to cut the boards along.

Diagonal styling

The first board is laid from the far corner of the room. To orient the lamellas and mark them correctly, you will need a 45-degree charcoal ruler. Having cut the board, wedges of 15 mm in size are attached to the walls and the lamella is placed in the corner. The first row consists of one board.
The second row already consists of two boards. The main thing is that the end connection of the elements should be in the center of the first board. Having measured the length of the lamellas, they again cut the corners at 45 degrees - they will be adjacent to the wall. Connect the rows together. To make the floor look beautiful, it is important that there is a distance of 20-40 cm between the ends of the boards of adjacent rows.
Thus, we lay row after row, not forgetting to knock together the rows of laminate with a wooden mallet in order to make the gaps invisible and get rid of the cracks.

Laying laminate is not difficult - you can do it yourself, following the instructions, within one day.

Master class on laying laminate (video)

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring is a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to floor your home. Even inexperienced craftsmen can do this work on their own. This is ensured by the special shape and configuration of the laminate panels (lamellas).

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring is a quick and inexpensive way to install flooring.

When is laminate suitable?

This flooring (like any other) is designed for use in certain conditions. The material is not suitable for all rooms. The room in which the laminate will be laid must be heated, there should not be sudden temperature changes in it. In rooms with high humidity, the floor covering will quickly fail. For its safety, it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the room in the range from 15 to 30 degrees, and the humidity from 40 to 70%.

Laying laminate can be done on a concrete or wooden base. The wooden floor under it must be even, some irregularities are allowed in the concrete screed: a height difference of up to 2 mm per 1 m and a slope of up to 4 mm per 2 m.

It is strictly forbidden to lay laminate flooring on an electrical floor heating system. This can cause the floor covering to dry out and warp. It is permissible to combine a hydraulic underfloor heating with this material, while observing the minimum allowable distance between the laminate and floor heating elements - 3 cm. If all these nuances are taken into account in your project, then you can proceed to the purchase and installation of the material.

What is required for installation?

The technique of laying laminate flooring is simple and understandable to everyone. On the base floor it is necessary to lay a polyethylene foam underlay, and on top of it the floor covering must already be mounted. If the base is concrete, then waterproofing will also be required. For this, a 200 µm thick polyethylene film or a specially designed membrane can be used. Therefore, in addition to the flooring itself, you need to stock up on the following additional materials:

How to install laminate flooring in a room

foamed polyethylene;
primer;
polyethylene film;
glue;
gap wedges;
plinth and fastenings for it.

It is more convenient to work with wedges specially designed for laying laminate, but you can get by with crosses that are used for laying tiles. The most economical wedge option is laminate trim, pieces of drywall, or wooden pegs. All wedges should be the same, their optimal size is 1-1.5 cm.

Glue is needed to connect some elements of the laminate, which will be difficult to connect with hooks on the mounting elements themselves. All materials are recommended to be purchased with a margin of about 10%. When buying, pay attention to the dimensions of the lamellas. Most often, 1 pack is intended to cover 2 m², however, this may be another area.

The tool you need:

jigsaw or hacksaw;
hammer;
wooden block;
building corner;
construction knife;
tape measure and pencil.

After purchasing and preparing everything you need, the laminate must be folded in the room in which the installation will be carried out and left for 2 days. During this time, the temperature and humidity of the material will come into line with the indicators of the room. The quality of the installation will be significantly reduced if this is not done.

Step by step instructions for laying laminate flooring

The principle of laying laminate with your own hands is quite simple. First of all, you need to clean the work surface, remove all debris and dust. It is advisable to use a construction vacuum cleaner. Next, a primer is applied. If the base is wooden, then it must also be treated with an antiseptic, and a waterproofing film should be laid on the concrete. It must be overlapped, and the joints of the canvases should be glued with adhesive tape.

Scheme of laying a soft substrate under the laminate.

Then you need to lay the foamed polyethylene. Installation of flooring starts from the window as a source of natural light. The substrate can be laid in stages on those areas of the floor on which the laminate will be laid with your own hands at the moment. This way you won't stain or damage the substrate. To form a depreciation strip, it is necessary to lay the substrate so that it extends 2-3 cm onto the walls. The strips of the substrate are connected to each other with adhesive tape and laid end-to-end.

Please note that some manufacturers make laminate with a soundproof layer. In this case, polyethylene foam cannot be used; only waterproofing is laid under the laminate if the work is carried out on a concrete base.

The first lamella is laid in the corner of the room that is closest to the window. Between the mounting unit and the wall, wedges must be installed on all sides that are in contact. Next, the following lamellas are laid in a strip under the wall. It is important to connect them correctly. Each new lamella is connected to the already installed one with the help of grooves that are made at the ends. This must be done without significant effort and without auxiliary tools. If a whole piece of laminate does not fit, it must be cut.

In order to properly cut the lamella, it must be turned over and placed on the already mounted elements, while one of its ends must rest against the wall. With a pencil, you need to draw a cut line, taking into account the gap on the wedges between the floor covering and the wall of 1-1.5 cm. The laminate is cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw. The cut piece is installed in a row.

To start the second row, you can use the rest of the lamella from the first row, if it is not shorter than 30 cm.

Laying laminate on the floor in a wooden house.

Otherwise, you need to cut the whole panel into 2 parts and install one of them at the beginning of the second row. The elements of the second row do not immediately snap into place with the elements of the first. First, you need to connect all the lamellas in a row, while they slightly touch the edge of the end of the first strip. Only after all the elements of the second row are interconnected, you need to bring them into the lock until they stop. The panels should click into place. If in some places the panels have not completely converged, you can attach a bar to the junction and lightly tap it with a hammer.

Follow this laminate flooring technique to completely fill the entire space in the room. Difficulties can arise only in those places where communications or heating pipelines pass.

Do-it-yourself diagonal laminate laying scheme

An interesting way to lay laminate flooring is to lay it diagonally. Visually, in this way, you can expand the space in the room. There are some features of the principle of laying laminate in this way.

First of all, keep in mind that the consumption of material with such installation will increase. You will need to purchase not 10%, but 15% in reserve. Surface preparation is carried out in the same way as in the previous case. Before laying, it is necessary to pull the fishing line from an angle of 45 degrees. This line will serve as a guide when laying.

In the first strip, the ends of the lamella are cut at 45 degrees. It is necessary to install wedges for thermal gaps and lay the lamella in a corner. In the second row, two panels are laid, interconnected. The line of their joint should fall in the middle of the first panel, and the edges, cut in the same way as the first panel, fell just to the wall, taking into account the gaps.

In this order, the entire floor is covered. You can use a fishing line as a guide and lay down all the uncut pieces first, and then fill in the free space.

Some features of working with laminate

In almost every room, you can encounter the presence of all kinds of protrusions, pipes through the floor and other elements that can make it difficult to lay the flooring. To lay the laminate in such places, it must be cut to the shape of the ledge. To do this, use a construction knife or a jigsaw.

If you need to cut the lamella for heating pipes, turn it over and lay it on the already mounted elements. Draw on the reverse side of the pipe placement line with a pencil. Use a level for accurate marking. After that, attach it to the side of the pipe and rest it against the wall through the peg. So you can put on the lamella the distance from the pipe to the wall. At the intersection point of the two plotted lines, it is necessary to cut holes for the pipes.

First, the hole must be drilled with a special ballerina drill. In the middle of the hole, it is necessary to cut a part of the lamella across. As a result, the piece must be cut into 2 parts, the first of which fits in front of the pipe, and the second behind it. To connect these 2 pieces, you need to apply glue to their ends.

To lay the lamella in the place where there is a protrusion in the wall, you will need to cut the required shape with a jigsaw.

Finally, you need to remove all the wedges, then cut the substrate so that it does not protrude more than 1-2 cm. Then the skirting boards are installed. Please note that the skirting board is not attached to the floor or to the floor covering, it is attached only to the wall. You can use wooden skirting boards only with a perfectly flat surface of the walls, since the skirting board will fully correspond to their contours. If you are not sure about their evenness, then it is better to stay on plastic skirting boards.

So, it’s easy to install laminate flooring on your own, but you must adhere to certain rules.

Can flooring be inexpensive, durable and easy to install? There is a material that combines these incompatible properties. This is a laminate floor. Therefore, it is the most popular among other types of coatings. To lay a laminate with your own hands, you need to know the features of the material and the subtleties of working with it, so that the service life is as long as possible.

The main question that arises when choosing a floor covering is whether it is possible to lay it yourself? Yes, and very easy! You just need to know the technical features. We will tell you how to lay the laminate with your own hands, with step-by-step instructions. You will be able to carry out the assembly yourself with high quality, without resorting to the expensive services of professional craftsmen. Our detailed article will introduce you to all the secrets and features of laying this flooring.

Buying a laminate

Before buying a laminate, you should familiarize yourself with the parameters that affect its quality and cost. It happens that a laminate of the same quality and characteristics differs significantly in price. This is because some manufacturers include brand markups and marketing gimmicks in their prices.

So what should you pay attention to? The laminate differs in classes, 21-23, 31-33, and thickness, from 4 to 12 mm. The optimal thickness of this floor covering should correspond to the type of room where it is supposed to be installed. The laminate class is indicated by two numbers, where the first indicates the type of room, and the second is the wear resistance coefficient, which implies impact resistance and moisture resistance. For example, if a laminate of minimum thickness and light load is suitable for a bedroom, then it is better to choose a higher class for a kitchen.

For a clear understanding, let's take a closer look at the classes:

Laminate class	Wear resistance level	Room type	Thickness mm
21	Easy	Bedroom	4
22	Average	Hall, living room	5
23	High	Kitchen, hallway, children's	5
31	Easy	Utility rooms	6
32	Average	Office rooms	6-10
33	High	Cafes, shops, gym	12

The table shows:

classes 21, 22, 23 are for domestic use, and 31, 32, 33 - commercial purpose;
the greater the thickness, the higher the load level.

The class of the laminate affects its cost. Therefore, the choice of increased thickness for home use is not always justified. Yes, class 33 has maximum moisture resistance, wear resistance and shockproof properties. But its main purpose is public places with high traffic, and for the same kitchen in the house, a class 23 laminate will serve perfectly.

Another nuance is the manufacturer's warranty. Manufacturer warranties may vary. from 15 to 30 years. Sellers may cite this parameter as a strong argument in favor of coverage at a higher cost. You should not delude yourself. The plant guarantees the service life of the coating, the installation of which was carried out by certified craftsmen.

What type of flooring can laminate flooring be laid on?

The basis can be any previous coating - cement, tile, wood, linoleum. It is only necessary that the surface be firm and level. Therefore, you must first make sure that it is sufficiently even. After that, you can start assembling the laminate. A deviation of 1 or 2 mm is permissible, no more. Only under this condition, the board will not bend, but will lie flat and tight. With a larger difference, cracking or breakage of the laminate board is possible. Check if there is a deviation using a rule or a profile.

Important: laying a laminate flooring is possible only on a cleaned, leveled base without cracks, bumps and other defects.

Laying on concrete floor

It is best to lay laminate flooring on a concrete floor. The pour base is perfect. If there are irregularities on the concrete floor that exceed the permitted norms, they must be leveled. In the case of a cement floor, everything is easy - just fill in a special screed. Concrete is therefore considered the best base for flooring.

If the concrete floor is level and clean need to put underlayment. What are laminate flooring underlays?

foamed polyethylene, budget option;
expanded polystyrene;
durable cork material;
multilayer substrates of different materials specially designed to perform this function.

If there is a need to level the base, it must first be prepared for pouring with a self-leveling mixture - cleaned and primed. The thickness of the first poured layer must be at least 10 mm. When the surface dries, re-priming is carried out, and another layer is poured. It is better to close the room for a day or two to avoid the appearance of defects on the surface of the screed.

Laying of the floor board should be done after the grout reaches at least 50% strength. I would like to note that the screed dries completely in 70-80 days. You can not wait for 100% drying if you use a plastic film under the substrate.

After reading the material in full, you will know how to lay the laminate on the concrete floor yourself.

Laminate flooring on wood floor

One of the most frequently asked questions is: can laminate flooring be installed on a wooden floor? Actually, it's risky. Especially if the wood flooring is aged. According to technological standards, it would be more correct to remove it, then replacing it with a full-fledged concrete base. In this case, it will be necessary to do all the necessary work on backfilling, thermal insulation, and preparation of the reinforcing belt. Only after that you can make a concrete screed. When the mixture hardens, you can start laying laminate panels.

Until the filling is done, it is possible to install a floor heating system. Can laminate flooring be installed on underfloor heating? Yes, if a special type of laminate board is used. It does not deteriorate from heat.

The complete replacement of an old wooden coating with concrete is a very costly undertaking, both in terms of cost and time. Therefore, it is common to prepare a wooden surface for the installation of a laminate flooring without replacement. Unless, of course, the floor is not quite old. If the logs with the boards are damaged, it is better to re-lay them again or still make a screed.

Minuses wood flooring as a base:

details can "walk" in height;
high probability of creaking when walking;
the lags dry out.

No need to lay laminate on a creaking base. It is necessary to find and fix loose planks. They can be additionally screwed or nailed.

Preliminary preparation of a wooden base begins with squeezing off excess pieces protruding above the surface. The cracks need to be patched.

Before laying a laminate on a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay a leveling material on it. Usually plywood is used for this. The optimal thickness of the plywood sheet for leveling is 10-12 mm. Plywood sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws. If there are differences more than allowed, you will need slats of various thicknesses, already to level the plywood.

It will be better if the joints of the plywood sheets do not match the corners. So the load on them will be distributed evenly. More you can not fit the sheets closely. Wood has the ability to change. Temperature, air humidity affect the condition of the tree. Therefore, there must be small gaps between the plywood sheets. They are needed to avoid distortions if the tree starts to "move" - shrink or expand.

If the wooden floor has not been damaged and the plywood sheets are laid flat, such a laminate floor will last a long time.

Laying on linoleum

Many apartments have linoleum on the floor. And when it comes time to change the flooring, a quite reasonable question arises: is it possible to lay laminate on linoleum. Usually there are no contraindications to this. Even there is some positive moment. Linoleum provides additional sound insulation.

But there are cases when should not be used linoleum as a base:

Uneven floor. If there are pits, swellings, large drops, it is better to remove the linoleum and pay attention to leveling.
The cover is very old. Linoleum that has begun to break down will swell. This can ruin the laminate flooring, not to mention the aesthetics.
Linoleum of increased softness is undesirable as a basis. This is fraught with the appearance of squeaks on the laminate when walking.

Substrate for laminate

On the prepared base, leveled and cleaned, you must first lay the substrate. The main role it performs is to protect the interlocks of the laminate from the damaging effects of external loads. This is achieved by cushioning steps on the floor and redistributing pressure on it.

The substrate also has additional properties:

hides small irregularities of acceptable sizes;
drowns out the noise;
warms.

Substrate types

Foamed polyethylene. This is the most affordable type. Therefore, it is very popular. The advantages include increased moisture resistance and low cost. The polyethylene foam substrate is produced in rolls, which makes it easier to work with it. The low price justifies its obvious disadvantages: low thermal conductivity, sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, lack of sound insulation.

Polyethylene foam short-lived. He quickly loses shape. The level of damping, or damping, in other words, decreases over time. Because of this, the lock connections quickly loosen. In a word, foamed polyethylene significantly reduces the life of a laminate floor. Therefore, it is desirable to use it only under a cheap coating with a service life comparable in time.

Important: polyethylene foam underlay is only suitable for cheap laminate.

Styrofoam. This type of substrate is average in terms of cost and quality. Expanded polystyrene has the ability to keep its shape well and muffle noise. The surface of the substrate has a high density, so it smooths out small irregularities well. At a cost, expanded polystyrene is more expensive than polyethylene, but more affordable than a cork substrate. Release form - plates and rolls. Due to its reasonable cost, combined with good properties, this material is used more often than others. The only argument against is the impossibility of laying on a warm floor.

It is recommended as a substrate if there is a floor heating system. Possesses the best properties necessary for a substrate. For the price - a little cheaper than cork. The properties of the substrate directly affect the life of the laminate. Therefore, buying a good substrate under an expensive laminate is a justified investment.

Important: for underfloor heating, a polyurethane foil laminate underlay is suitable.

It is made from natural cork chips. Release form - rolls. This is probably the best underlay for flooring. Unconditional advantages: durability, resistance to loads, high thermal insulation properties, good sound insulation. There are also disadvantages. The cork substrate does not like heat and moisture. In addition, it must be laid on a perfectly flat surface due to its low leveling ability. Places of joints during laying must be glued with adhesive tape so that there are no gaps.

The type of premises where cork can be used is living rooms, without underfloor heating, where humidity is low or normal and there is no risk for the coating to be flooded with water. Despite its excellent properties, natural cork underlayment is rarely used. This is due to the high price.

Bitumen-cork on cellulose. The cost is close to cork. Can be used with underfloor heating system.

Important: the best and, at the same time, the most expensive substrate is natural cork. But it is not suitable for underfloor heating.

In addition to the above types of substrate, many new products appear on sale. Basically, these are little-known materials that have not passed any tests. Therefore, it is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. They are usually listed in the instructions on the package.

Do I need a plastic film under the laminate?

The main purpose of the polyethylene film under the substrate when laying the laminate is moisture protection from within. If there is a basement with high humidity under the floor, the use of a film is simply necessary. It is laid under the substrate with an overlap and glued with adhesive tape.

Polyethylene film under the laminate

There is also a risk of moisture from below when laying on an incompletely dried cement screed. This is a problem of almost all modern new buildings made of monolithic concrete. The screed dries for more than 2 months. Many people are not willing to wait that long. Even an expensive, high wear-resistant laminate deteriorates from moisture, begins to swell and creak. Therefore, the use of a polyethylene film is desirable.

Important: Many laminate flooring manufacturers recommend that you always use plastic wrap when installing.

How to lay the underlay

Now consider how to properly lay the substrate under the laminate.

It is necessary to start laying out or rolling out the false material along the wall from which the laying will be carried out. As a result, the underlay should cover the entire length of the floor along the desired wall. It is better not to immediately cover the entire floor of the room with a substrate so as not to walk on it. The next strip along the wall should be laid as needed.

The joints must be tightly combined and glued with tape. If there are small gaps between the joints, it's okay. Not allowed laying the substrate overlap, so the laminate must evenly adhere to it.

To speed up the process, the edges of the substrate are sometimes fixed with a construction stapler. But it’s better to spend a little more time taping than to listen to the not-so-pleasant sounds of staples rubbing against a laminate board later.

Important: it is forbidden lay down the underlayment.

Do-it-yourself laminate laying tools

Before starting the installation work on laying the laminate, it is necessary to prepare all the necessary tools.

Tools

Hammer and doboynik. They are needed to fit the laminate panels to each other. A block of wood is suitable as a doboynik. Do not knock directly on the panels, because the locks may be damaged.
Stationery knife. Needed to open packages.
Square, pencil, tape measure. Needed for marking.
Wedges. They will be needed to maintain the required gap between the wall and the coating.
Montage. With the help of a special bracket, the boards of the last row are laid.
Electric jigsaw. A jigsaw is needed for sawing boards. You can even cut laminate with any hand saw that is at hand. Small cuts are required - the board is sawn across.

How to cut laminate

Laminate should be cut face up. This will prevent the formation of burrs along the edges of the front surface.

To make the cut line even, use metal guides - rulers and squares.

The last row requires special attention. Boards for this row almost always have to be sawn lengthwise.

Laying scheme

A frequently asked question is how to lay the laminate, along or across the room. There is no special rule in this regard. There is only one subtlety, the observance of which is recommended, and that is for the visual effect. When laying laminate flooring perpendicular to the window opening, then the light will fall along the seams, and they will become less noticeable. Laminate can also be laid across. In this case, the joints of the boards will simply be more visible. It looks very nice and visually expands the room laying diagonally. But this option is more complicated - skill is required, and there will be more waste.

In general, during installation, the assembly of the first and last rows is the most difficult. When laying the first, it is necessary to observe the gaps along the wall. In the last row, it will take a lot of time sawing the boards and joining in a coated doorway in another room.

The main rule for the correct laying of the laminate is the displacement of the seams. Each transverse joint must be 400 mm from the next. So the load will be optimally distributed over the entire surface, and the coating will be more wear-resistant.

The assembly of the next row always begins with a segment of the previous plank. With such an incomplete piece, every even row should begin. This assembly option is considered traditional. It is called "layouts with a half-board offset." Odd rows with this option always start with a whole panel.

Important: the distance between the transverse seams of adjacent panels must be at least 40 cm.

You can also lay a laminate board with a ladder. With this laying, the minimum allowable joint displacement must be observed. Usually this parameter is indicated on the packaging. The first row starts with a whole plank, the next - with 1/3 of the full length, the third - 2/3. Get a kind of ladder.

Do-it-yourself laminate installation instructions

The very technology of installation of this flooring is always the same. There are only features when connecting boards, depending on the type of lock.

Now let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to lay a laminate with your own hands.

First you need to prepare, vacuum and level the surface of the base.
When the surface has been cleaned and leveled, if necessary, an overlapping film of polyethylene should be laid. The edges are secured with adhesive tape.
Now the substrate is unfolded or rolled out, in strips along the desired wall. Joints must be tight. Also sealed with adhesive tape.
Wedges are placed around the entire perimeter. Their thickness is 10 mm. They will create a small indent between the floor and walls. This allows air to circulate around the floor covering. This will help prevent damage to the laminate when the room is extremely hot or humid.
The first row must be laid from the side opposite the door. All panels of the first row must rest against the indentation wedges. Each panel is connected to the next one.
The last plank of the row may be too long. It needs to be trimmed, taking into account the prepared indents.
The next strip of panels should start with half or a third of the board, according to the diagram.
All rows are laid consecutively.
The planks of the final row will need to be cut lengthwise. The main thing is not to cut off the spike.

If the shape of the room is geometrically correct, installation difficulties should not arise.

Important: the laminate must be adapted to the temperature and humidity of the room before installation. Therefore, a couple of days before the intended laying, it is necessary to bring the packages with flooring into this room.

How to eliminate joints between multi-level coatings of adjacent rooms

We looked at how to properly install laminate flooring. But there is another important point.

Often, during installation, multi-level joints are formed between the laminate and the threshold or flooring of adjacent rooms. How to deal with them?

They are easily neutralized with the help of thresholds. If you need a straight joint, a metal threshold will do. It is the most durable. For joints that are curved, there are flexible sills.

Threshold types:

single-level- the most common, designed for joining laminate flooring in adjacent rooms;
multilevel- used for joining a laminate floor with another surface, the level of which differs in height;

unilateral- it is applied to docking with doors;

angular- for connection of coverings under an inclination of 90 degrees.

Laying methods depending on the type of lock

Laminate flooring installation methods depend on the type of lock on the board, Click or Lock. It is impossible to confuse them, because the manufacturer indicates on the packaging which connection is used.

Laying method with key connection Click

This technology involves assembly without a hammer. The boards are assembled sequentially. Each next panel must be brought to the already installed at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the spike must be inserted into the groove, pressing lightly. The castle got its name because of a characteristic feature. When the spike enters the groove, it makes a click. With this technology, the panels are first fastened with side joints, and then with longitudinal ones.

Lock-in installation lock

This method has some differences from the previous one. The spikes are inserted into the groove from the side, and you can’t do without a mallet with a finisher. This technology involves assembling rows first, and then connecting them. Boards of the same row must be laid out evenly on the floor, parallel to each other.

So, we examined in detail how to lay a laminate with our own hands. It remains to clarify one more point. Connection " tenon-groove» does not seal the floor surface. Water can still get in between the seams. However, a special adhesive can significantly reduce the chance of water getting inside the coating.

Glue is applied to the spikes immediately before assembly. But this method has a significant drawback. The resulting floor covering will become monolithic. It is no longer possible to replace several boards if necessary.

Laminate is one of the best floor coverings in terms of price to quality ratio. It is beautiful, does not require scrupulous maintenance, has a fairly high service life, is easy to install and can be laid on almost any base.

Laying a laminate with your own hands is quite possible even for a beginner - step-by-step instructions will greatly facilitate this process and answer a lot of questions.

Step #1 - Choosing a Laminate Laying Method

The method of laying the laminate is not strictly regulated. To a greater extent, it depends on the personal preferences of the homeowner and the individual characteristics of the room where it is planned to carry out facing work.

The technical features of the room include: the location of the window and the direction of natural light, the location of the door or the entrance to the room, the size or area of the room.

If the location of the door is not so important when choosing a specific installation scheme for the coating, then the direction of the light and the overall size of the floor surface can make quite significant adjustments.

The laying method only determines the location of the lamellas, but affects the overall material consumption.

In view of the foregoing, it is customary to distinguish the following laying methods:

along the room or in the direction of the light - a classic or traditional laying technology that saves on material by using the maximum number of laminate trimmings. The unidirectionality of the flooring and natural light partially hides the joints between the slats, which creates the effect of a single canvas.
across or perpendicular to natural light - informally considered the most durable and durable way, by overlapping or shifting the joints of the previous row to the floor of the canvas. It is not recommended to use this technology for very small rooms, since the “chessboard” arrangement of lamellas can visually reduce an already small area.
- the most complex and time-consuming installation scheme, since it will require constant trimming of the first and last web in a row at a certain angle. The undercut, in turn, directly affects the overspending of the facing material. Visually, on the contrary, the most advantageous way of arranging slats, as it allows you to hide the unevenness of the walls and visually stretch small rooms.

Step #2 - Calculate the amount of material

Grade 33 material is considered the best choice for living quarters

The calculation of the laminate is carried out taking into account the way it is laid. This is a prerequisite, since the consumption of material for different orientations of the panels is different. The smallest with standard orientation - along or along the length of the room, the largest - with diagonal flooring.

For the standard flooring method, the formula is: Room area / Panel area. You can take the area of one package - this point is not so important, since in any case, the total number of packages is converted.

It is advisable to visit the outlet where you plan to purchase material before making calculations and choose the right cladding. Next, you need to find out the total area of the panels contained in the package. This information is open and is usually printed on the packaging itself or on a paper ticket if the laminate is supplied in a polyethylene blister.

This information will allow you to more accurately navigate the calculation and not bother yourself with the transfer of the total number of panels into one package, etc.

For diagonal flooring, the calculation is carried out according to a more complex formula, which I described in one of my articles. I recommend you use a calculator. This will help you calculate in a minute, saving you a lot of time measuring and calculating values.

The final number of packages obtained from the calculation is the minimum value, which does not include material required for trimming or not used due to manufacturing defects.

It is optimal if 10-15% of the material is added to this value. For example, for 10 sq.m, 9 packs of material with a covered area of 10.3 sq.m are sufficient. It is advisable to add 1 more package to the total quantity for the possible occurrence of the above problems.

Step #3 - Selecting the material according to the requirements

Laminate is a multilayer facing covering. Each technological layer performs its task. For easier understanding, manufacturers of laminated cladding do not cash out detailed information about what materials, for what layer and what thickness were used.

Table showing the ratio of the class and belonging of the material

It is important for an ordinary consumer to know the thickness of the material, its service life, the technology for connecting lamellas and installation instructions. Therefore, when purchasing the laminitis you like on your own, pay attention to the following:

the thickness of the lamella is one of the most important parameters, since the minimum thickness should not be less than 8 mm. Sometimes, it is allowed to use 6 mm canvases, but the outer layer of such material wears out quickly. Optimal laminate flooring with a thickness of 10-12 mm. This ensures that the coating will have a good bearing base and a sufficiently thick front surface.
coating class - determines the ability of the material to withstand mechanical loads. That is, the class of the product directly affects how much load this laminate can withstand. For typical apartments with 1-2 residents, class 32 laminate is mainly laid. For families with children and animals, it is desirable to lay a cladding of at least class 33.
type of connection - a method of fixing the panels to each other. At present, coatings with locking joints such as “Click” and “Lock” are widely used. The first type is easier to install, but also more expensive. To lay the flooring with “Lock” lock, you will need a hammer and a mounting block.

There is a third type - but such solutions are out of use due to inefficiency and a large amount of work. Yes, and sealing joints can be performed for any type of locks.

When choosing a laminate for a bathroom or bathroom, keep in mind that the material must be designed for use in such premises. You can find out about this by the corresponding icon on the package or in the instructions for the material.

Step #4 – Preparing the Concrete and Wood Surface

Cement screed is one of the most effective ways to eliminate surface drops.

The complexity and process of preparing the bearing surface before laying the laminate with your own hands is highly dependent on its initial technical condition. Roughly speaking, the worse the foundation, the more money and effort you will have to invest in it before laying something on it.

When laying laminate flooring, it is envisaged that the height deviation for the base will not exceed a value of 3 mm for every 2 m2. This is the maximum value that ensures that the substrate used partially levels out the drops. This will reduce the load from walking on the surface, as a result of which the interlocks will remain intact.

With large differences, there is a risk that the applied load will lead to the formation of microcracks in the interlocks, and this will subsequently cause the lamella to break along the joint.

Repair and restoration of concrete bases can be performed using leveling thin-layer solutions or pouring a concrete screed. The first option is used for minor damage to the surface, when a full-fledged screed is impractical.

Leveling with plywood is best done for any type of floor.

The screed is poured in each case individually, since before its installation it will be necessary to find out the maximum height differences and find out the carrying power for the current base. And already on the basis of the data obtained, decide what thickness of the screed to use.

After pouring the screed, it is desirable to lay a gypsum-fiber sheet or plywood over the entire area. Many masters ignore this moment, but for almost bare concrete, this is not the best choice.

For wooden floors, you will need to open the entire base to the very supporting structure. That is, to those elements on which the floor is based. Next, you need to check their condition for fungal infections and rot. If everything is in order, then the elements are treated with an antiseptic and the boards are laid according to the level.

Minor damage can be replaced with new material without replacing the entire element. If the lesions are too large, then the entire part will have to be replaced. For technically strong, but "humped" floors, you can use the scraping method or lay plywood sheets in level.

Step #5 - DIY Instructions

Using an electric jigsaw significantly speeds up the laying process.

Laying the laminate is done: a hammer or mallet, a mounting block made of wood or plastic, a hacksaw, a tape measure and a square, a simple pencil or marker.

You may need a construction knife, tape and a household vacuum cleaner. You can use an electric jigsaw to saw off the lamellas. You can set the gaps with scraps of material or buy a set of spacer wedges.

Laminate flooring should be allowed to rest at room temperature for 48-72 hours prior to work. This will allow the slats to take the final volume according to the temperature and humidity of the air in the room. During this time, you can have time to draw up a general laying scheme, which will speed up the process of laying the cladding.

Small irregularities and differences can be leveled with a substrate

Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate with your own hands will consist of the following:

In the room where the cladding is planned, dry and wet cleaning of the floor is performed. All construction debris, sand and cement particles, dust and other contaminants should be removed. If greasy stains or traces of paint are present, they can be removed with an organic solvent.
If GVL or plywood sheets were laid on the floor surface after leveling, normal cleaning is performed using a household vacuum cleaner.

The laying of the first row can be started with a solid or half panel

The substrate is laid out and cut along the length of the room. The joints between adjacent rows are glued with paper tape. If it is necessary to install an additional layer of waterproofing, then a 100 micron thick polyethylene film is laid under the substrate. In the process of laying, the formation of unnecessary folds and bumps should be avoided.
The first row is being laid with a solid lamella. You can start laying with a shortened canvas, there is no fundamental difference. The second and subsequent lamellas are fixed in the side groove of the previous blade. For tamping, a mounting bar and a hammer are used.

The second, third and subsequent rows are mounted by analogy

Then we continue laying the second row overlapping the joints of the first by 35-40 cm. For fixing, we hammer the lamella into the groove of the panel located in the previous row, and then fix it with the adjacent canvas.
The laying process to the last row is carried out similarly. If necessary, panels are trimmed in the shape of pipes or other plumbing elements passing through the floor slab.

The clamp will help you quickly lay the last row of laminate

To lay the last row, you will need to trim the panel in width and a special metal clamp. The width of the remaining panel is equal to the distance from the wall to the penultimate row minus the dimensions of the expansion joint. For laying, you will need to bring the panel into the “groove” of the panel of the previous row, attach the clamp and fix the canvas.

In general cases, laying a laminate with your own hands is quite feasible, the main thing is not to deviate from the step-by-step instructions and follow the recommendations. In conclusion, we advise you to watch the master class in video format.

The advantage of laminate flooring is its economically justified cost. Owners of new apartments and those who started repairs in order to change the design of their own home are attracted by the idea of installing a new floor with their own hands, at no extra cost. Specialists who developed models of laminated modules spent a lot of effort, but managed to come up with a simple installation technology. How to lay a laminate with your own hands will help you understand our detailed step-by-step instructions.

Laying process

The installation process involves a number of nuances that are best studied before starting work. In order for your own work to bring the joy of contemplating a stylish floor, and for guests to be surprised at a presentable appearance, you need to follow all the steps according to the recommendation. In this article, you will find a sufficient number of tips on how to lay a laminate on your own, without the help of master builders.

Materials and tools

Having carefully studied the information offered, you can independently fold the floor from laminate fragments. You just need to know how to handle some tools. For the correct installation of laminated fragments, you will need:

roulette;
building angle;
marker;
jigsaw with electric drive and blade for working with metal;
knife with a thin blade;
hammer;
wedges.

Cleaning up the old base

Before laying a new floor, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Leaving old wooden boards is a bad decision, they:

absorb excess moisture;
creak when walking;
may be rotten or damaged.

Therefore, it is better to remove the old wooden base, carefully remove the chips, sweep out dust and debris. If the subfloor is made of concrete - check the level, measure the horizontal position. When creating a new concrete base, the thickness of the substrate is taken into account - 3mm. The condition of a high-quality floor is that the rough base is even, with a minimum slope: 1m - 2mm. Some craftsmen advise vacuuming the subfloor before laying soundproofing.

Remove all old skirting boards.

We clean and remove all debris from the floor.

We check the level of the subfloor. It should be smooth and without flaws.

Calculation of the number of laminate boards

In order for the floor to turn out to be aesthetic and uniform in color and the number of joints, before starting installation, mark out the number of fragments along the length of the room, leave a gap of 1 cm around the perimeter and immediately cut to the desired length - the extreme boards must be the same length.

When the floor is pre-marked and filed, the fragments begin to be laid.

We measure the entire subfloor. We write down all dimensions on paper, they will later be useful to us to calculate the amount of laminate.

We divide the floor area by the width of the laminate board and get the amount of material needed.

Laying insulating material

A special material is laid under the laminate fragments - the substrate, which is produced in mats or rolls. Laying the false material begins along the long wall of the room, joining the next rows and fixing them with adhesive tape.

The first row of laminate modules is laid out on the substrate along the wall.

This layer is needed to protect the inner surface of the coating from direct contact with the concrete base. In order to save money, you can not purchase a special coating, but limit yourself to a diffuse membrane or polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns.

Fake accessories are needed for:

absorption of sounds from steps;
protect the inner layer of the floor from friction on concrete;
prevent "floating" of the floor;
correct differences in the height of the draft base;
protect against condensation.

Laying laminate boards

While laying the laminate on the floor, some of its fragments will have to be adjusted by cutting the boards. This process is done by means of the necessary measurements and cut with an electric jigsaw.

To evenly distribute the load over the surface of the laminate coating, stack fragments with an offset of each new row.

Laying out the first row along the length of the wall of the room, the next one starts with a half of the board so that the joints in the new row fall in the middle of the board from the first row of flooring.

Fitting boards under thresholds and door jambs.

Important tips for laying laminate flooring:

the length of the segment of the laminate to offset the joints - at least 30 cm;
the width of the cut board is at least 5 cm;
displacement of butt joints for a row - 1/3 of the length. fragment.

Fragment fastening

A carefully studied step-by-step instruction explains in detail the principle of fixing fragments to each other. Three types of locks have been developed for connecting laminate boards; to determine the type of lock, they carefully study the designations on the package.

Regardless of the type of lock connection, the installation process of the floor covering is carried out in several ways:

collect a number of boards and attach to the finished floor area;
attach one fragment at a time using longitudinal and end locks.

The second method is convenient if the owner works alone. For a visual aesthetic appearance, floor fragments are led under the door frame, for which the door jamb is pre-sawn to the thickness of the laminate module. The rule for laying laminate flooring is to arrange it parallel to the flow of natural light. In this case, the joints between the fragments are not striking.

The method of mounting the laminate board along the walls saves the number of fragments. In a narrow room, it is better to place the modules across the space, visually expanding it.

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Installation of skirting boards

The plinth is installed at the final stage of work. A properly installed plinth hides the expansion gaps between the laminate and the wall, uneven wallpaper, electrical wires, telephone cord, TV antenna. The choice of material from which skirting boards are made is extensive:

plastics of an extensive color palette;
veneer;
tree.

Against the background of a laminate, a plinth made of wood or veneer looks more profitable and more aesthetically pleasing. The plastic looks better.

If you want a wooden plinth, then it requires preparation:

roughness cleaning;
staining;
careful fit around the perimeter

Carefully lay the wooden plinth at the corners of the room: external and internal. The cut is made at 45 degrees. Attach the planks to the wall or floor with corrugated nails or self-tapping screws, filling the caps. If desired, the plinth is glued, but in the future there may be difficulties with disassembly.

Plastic skirting boards are attached to flat surfaces with concealed installation parts or glued with liquid nails. Mounting brackets are placed along the length of the wall after 40-50 cm, assembly is carried out with light pressure until it clicks.

If the need arises, the plinth is easy to dismantle. For a complete interior, the plinth is matched to the color of the flooring.

Conclusion

Video: laying laminate on the floor

To make it easy to work with laminate fragments, leave it indoors for 24 hours without unpacking. When working, pipes, corners come across, which are made out with a jigsaw. The subfloor must be hard and dry. Moisture will cause deformation of the laminate of any class. The substrate for the installation of this type of coating is required! It isolates the modules from the subfloor, retains heat in the room and smooths out uneven floors.