Brick plinth for strip foundation. Let's look at how to properly lay out a brick plinth. Brick plinth laying.

The basement is, in fact, that visible part of the building that is based on the foundation and is a kind of transition from the base to the walls of the house. It is obvious that in addition to the load-bearing capacity, that is, the built-in strength potential to withstand the entire load from the structures located above, the base must also withstand all external influences, since it is located in perhaps the most vulnerable place. In this regard, any material from which this part of the building will be built requires a special approach to selection and effective protection during operation.

The basement belt can be constructed from reinforced concrete, rubble stone, building blocks or brick - all these options require certain labor costs. Brick plinth on strip foundation When constructing a private house, it is quite often chosen for the considerations that such a material is environmentally friendly (made from natural components), accessibility, including price, simplicity, or rather, clarity of construction, low thermal conductivity and good strength characteristics (naturally, with choosing quality bricks).

In order for a brick plinth on a reinforced concrete base to be reliable and last for many years without requiring any repairs, the work on its construction must be carried out in compliance with a number of rules. And let's start with what kind of brick can be used for these needs.

Materials for the construction of a brick plinth

What kind of brick is needed for the base?

If you plan to use brick to raise the plinth, then the first thing you need to do is choose the “right” and high-quality material, since not everyone is suitable for laying out this part of the structure.

Brick is made from various raw materials and using different technologies, so products may differ in purpose. Some samples are suitable for internal partitions, others for external walls, others -, fourth - exclusively as a cladding finish, and so on.

  • Sand-lime brick is usually not used when constructing a plinth, since the products do not have sufficient strength simply due to the specifics of the manufacturing technology and the materials used for this.

Sand-lime brick is widely used for the construction of internal and external walls and partitions, but it is poorly suited for the base, as it is not resistant to moisture. And for what it’s worth, there is always an excess of moisture in the area of ​​the foundation.

  • Ceramic brick can be called the most suitable material not only for building a basement, but also for building or cladding the external walls of a house. Several varieties are produced on an industrial scale, for example, construction (ordinary) bricks for the construction of walls, and facing bricks, which are well suited for decorative finishing of the base and above the surfaces of the facade.

Such bricks are made from specially selected types of clay and quartz sand, and in the process of high-temperature firing they receive the necessary strength and protection from moisture.


— Red brick M-150 has quite high strength and a very reasonable price. However, there is a drawback - the porous structure of such a product easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, unprotected brick quickly becomes wet, and at low temperatures it freezes and can crack, causing the supporting structure to be weakened. Such products can withstand 55÷60 winter cycles. In order to maintain the material in high-quality condition after building a house, it is necessary (in addition to waterproofing and insulation) to provide a protective finish basement walls– durable cement plaster or facing tiles.

— Red brick M-250 is more reliable, since plastic types of clay are used for production, which acquire the necessary qualities after proper firing, and the finished products are resistant to external influences. aggressive influences- incomparably higher, and the base may not even require protective cladding. Typically, such bricks are laid “for jointing”. This material is recommended for the construction of building plinths in regions with high humidity.

The marking indicates the strength of the product - it is on this basis that the brick is selected for a particular application. Specifically, the numerical indicator indicates the permissible load that the brick can withstand without destruction (expressed in kilograms per square centimeter).

For example, a brick designated M-100 is intended for the construction of internal or external walls of small one-story houses, but it is not suitable for multi-story structures or a basement belt. For these purposes, products marked M-200 and M-300 are mainly used, since such products are designed for high loads and pronounced resistance to moisture.

In addition to the strength grade, the brick differs in the frost resistance grade. It is denoted by the letter symbol F and a numerical indicator indicating the guaranteed number of deep freezing and thawing cycles that the material will withstand without losing its characteristics. Naturally, for the base, the higher this figure, the better.

Varies ceramic brick its size and structural structure.


According to geometric dimensions, bricks are divided into ordinary single, one-and-a-half and double - the linear parameters are shown in the illustration. (In this case we are not talking about facing bricks - there are a lot of different domestic and foreign standards, as well as generally non-standard options).

In addition, ceramic bricks are divided into solid and hollow (hollow).

— Solid brick has a continuous material structure, that is, an increased overall density, which entails an increase in its thermal conductivity. It is highly durable and is used to build load-bearing structures of a house, including the base, and for internal walls and partitions, but masonry from it will require more careful

— Hollow products are those that have in their structure a different number of blind or through holes of rectangular or round shape. This type of brick has lower thermal conductivity, so it is often used for the construction of external walls. In addition, the overall density of such material is noticeably lower, which makes it possible to reduce the weight of building structures and facilitate the tasks of transportation and masonry.

Hollow ceramic bricks can be suitable for constructing the basement of small one-story houses. But for taller buildings it is better to use solid products, as they have a higher resistance to heavy loads.

By the way, it is always necessary to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of the purchased brick. Hollow products also come in different forms - the percentage of “hollowness” in them can range from 12÷13% to 40-50%; accordingly, the permissible load indicators also vary widely. That is, one should choose the “golden mean” in order to obtain possible “preferences” from the reduced mass and thermal conductivity of the base, but at the same time, without losing the required compressive strength.

Calculation of the number of bricks

When planning the construction of a plinth, taking into account its required thickness, length and height, the amount of brick that will be required for these purposes is usually calculated. It is clear that it is advisable to carry out such calculations in advance in order to include the obtained data in the prepared estimate and find out the amount required for the purchase of building material.


The thickness and height of the plinth are usually multiples of the linear dimensions of the brick. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the above parameters, but also the thickness of the joints between the masonry bricks, which is usually 10 mm. That is, in order to calculate the number of bricks taking into account the seams, you should also add the thickness of the seam to the length, width and height of the product. As a result, for example, the following dimensions of a single row brick will be obtained: 260 × 130 × 75 mm (this also includes the thickness of the reinforcing mesh layer, if used).

A few words about the thickness of the base. In bricklaying, they usually operate with concepts related to the multiplicity of whole bricks or their halves: “half a brick”, “a brick”, “one and a half bricks”, etc. Knowing the linear parameters of the brick and adding the thickness of the joints to them, it is easy to obtain a “pure” value for the thickness of the masonry. However, this is well shown, with dimensions indicated, in the illustration below.


A- “half a brick.” (In practice, when building plinths, half-brick masonry is usually not used - it is too thin and unstable). Thickness (hereinafter – without external finishing) – 120 mm

b- “into a brick.” Thickness – 250 mm.

V- “one and a half bricks.” Thickness – 380 mm.

G- “two bricks.” Thickness – 510 mm.

d- “2.5 bricks.” Thickness – 640 mm.

Since there are other standard sizes of ordinary bricks (except for single - one-and-a-half or double - in height), the required quantity can be calculated only after the type of material purchased has been determined.

The table below shows the average calculation of the number of bricks per 1 square meter masonry:

Thickness of masonry in “bricks”Masonry thickness in mmBrick typeNumber of bricks per 1 m² of masonry, pieces
- excluding seams- including seams
"Half a brick"120 Single61 51
One and a half45 39
Double30 26
"In one brick"250 Single128 102
One and a half95 78
Double60 52
"One and a half bricks"380 Single189 153
One and a half140 117
Double90 78
"Two bricks"510 Single256 204
One and a half190 156
Double120 104
"Two and a half bricks"640 Single317 255
One and a half235 195
Double150 130

Most often, calculations are made individually for each specific building, taking into account all the parameters listed above. In this case, it is recommended that after counting the bricks, add a certain margin to the result, from 5 to 15%, depending on the degree of skill of the builder and the quality of the purchased material. This measure is usually taken with any building material: there is never enough stock, but a shortage at the most unnecessary moment will slow down the work process.

Let’s make the task easier for the reader – below is a convenient online calculator that will quickly and accurately carry out the necessary calculations.

Calculator for calculating the amount of bricks for building a basement

Enter the requested values ​​and click "CALCULATE THE AMOUNT OF BRICK"

Total length of base , meters

Number of external corners of the plinth

Number of internal corners of the plinth

Thickness of plinth brickwork

Plinth masonry height H, meters

What brick will be used?

Take into account the required stock?

A few explanations on the calculations:

  • The total length of the plinth is indicated (including with internal lintels, if they are laid out with bricks). The length of the plinth along the perimeter of the building is taken according to EXTERNAL side.
  • The number of external and internal corners of the plinth is required to make the necessary adjustments in the calculation of the total volume of the brickwork. In the input field external corners areas of abutment or intersection of masonry walls are also added.
  • The calculation is made based on the selected type of brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints of 10 mm.
  • You are given the opportunity to independently select the required percentage of the “reserve” of material.

Mortar for laying the plinth

The most important role for the strength of the basement walls is played by the preparation of the masonry mortar, since the reliability of fastening the bricks together in the masonry depends on it. Craftsmen recommend using Portland cement grades 300, 400 or 500, fine-grained sand and lime to make the mortar. Sometimes a small amount of clay is added to its composition. The masonry mortar must be plastic and homogeneous, and in order to achieve such properties, the sand used to make the working composition must be sifted through a fine-mesh construction sieve.


The solution is mixed using a construction mixer or a special attachment mounted on an electric drill.

An important point in the preparation of masonry mortar is the soil moisture at the construction site. And when determining the brand of mortar, they usually follow the rule that in high-quality masonry all its components should have approximately the same brand strength. However, practice has proven that under favorable operating conditions of a building, masonry mortar M-75 or M-100 is sufficient for a brick plinth.

Table of proportions of cement-sand mortar (cement: sand), suitable for laying foundations and plinths on wet soils:

Cement brandSolution grade (kgf/cm²)
M50 M75 M100 M150 M200
PC-300 1:5 1:4 1:3 1:4 -
PC-400 1:6 1:5,5 1:4,5 1:3 1:2,5
PC-500 1:7 1:6 1:5,5 1:2,5 1:3

Table of proportions of cement-lime mortar (cement: lime: sand), suitable for the construction of foundations and plinths on low-moisture soil:

Cement brandSolution grade (kgf/cm²)
M50 M75 M100 M150 M200
PC-300 1:0,6:6 1:0,3:4 1:0,2:3,5 1:0,1:2,5 -
PC-400 1:0,9:8 1:5,5:5 1:4:4,5 1:0,2:3 1:0,1:2,5
PC-500 - 1:0,8:7 1:0,5:5,5 1:0,3:4 1:0,2:3

Features of arranging a brick plinth

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of their planning and execution:


  • If brick is chosen as a building material for the base belt, then the first step is to determine the thickness of this part of the structure. This parameter will directly depend on the material from which the walls will be built and the overall dimensions of the building. For example, for wooden walls the thickness of the brick plinth should be at least 250÷300 mm, that is, one or one and a half bricks, and for a brick building - 500 millimeters or more, that is, two bricks or more.

  • The brickwork of the base must be done on a layer of waterproofing laid on the surface of the strip foundation - it will protect the brick from capillary penetration of soil moisture. High-quality roofing felt is most often used as a waterproofing material, but sometimes it is replaced with bitumen-based coating compounds, which are applied in a layer 1.5-2 mm thick. But rolled material in two layers will be much more reliable (and simpler).
  • The brick is laid flat, that is, on the bed, so that each subsequent upper row of masonry overlaps the seams of the lower row. The laying is done using a cord stretched along the wall of the plinth. In addition, control over the evenness of each row must be done using a building level.
  • Whatever material the walls of the building are subsequently erected from, the brick plinth may differ from them in thickness. Several options are possible:

A– The base (pos. 1) can be wider than the building wall (pos. 2), and protrude beyond its limits as a step.

b– The wall and plinth are of equal thickness.

V– “Sinking” base, the thickness of which is less than the thickness of the wall.

Depending on the chosen option, the design of the metal ebb (item 3), which is installed between the base and the wall, and serves to protect the base from direct contact with water flowing from above, will depend.

Laying a brick plinth

After the obligatory flooring and fastening of the strip foundation to the surface, you can proceed to marking the basement masonry.

Prices for ceramic bricks

ceramic brick


The marking process necessarily includes an additional check of the foundation diagonals - they are measured using a tape measure and must have the same length, otherwise the structure being built may turn out to be skewed. If it turns out that the diagonals do not match in size, then you will have to straighten them with the help of laying the base, and it should be noted that this will not be so easy to do.


To do this, you will have to mark the masonry of the base belt on the horizontal surface of the foundation, measuring the location of its diagonals, starting from the outer corners of the base, located on one side of it. The found points must be marked using ordinary chalk, and then connected with lines. As a ruler, you can use a straight line or a coated marking cord.

Many craftsmen begin laying the plinth precisely from its corners, thus simplifying the further process of creating perfectly smooth walls.

Having chosen this masonry option, the first row begins with the formation of one of the corners, from which the first row is completely extended only to the adjacent corner, where a 90-degree turn is also marked with high accuracy. Next, the remaining angles are outlined in a similar way (with precise measurements of the diagonals between them). Well, then the entire walls located between these corners will rise sequentially.

To prevent the masonry from tilting forward or to the side, metal vertical corners are installed and firmly fixed in a perfectly plumb line along the laid out corners, starting from the first row, which sets the horizontal direction. These auxiliary devices are usually given the height of the future base, and the levels of each row are marked on them, taking into account the seam between them.


These guidelines will greatly simplify the masonry process, especially for those craftsmen who do not have much experience in this craft. According to the markings, a cord is pulled to opposite corners, with a guideline to which the bricks will be laid. After the laid out row is ready, the cord rises to the next mark, showing the height of the next row - and so on until the very top of the plinth wall. Such devices, by the way, will help control the thickness of the seams between the rows. But be that as it may, the use of such “means of small-scale mechanization” in no way relieves the master of the obligation to control each row of masonry at a building level.

After one wall of the plinth is ready, the vertical corner from one of the finished corners of the building is removed and rearranged to the one that is diagonally from it, and the masonry process continues. And so on until all the walls are laid out.

A few words need to be said about how the brick is laid, depending on the thickness of the wall and how it is tied at the corners of the building.

When laying out the first row, bricks can be laid along the foundation line or across, that is, with a spoon or a poke outward. The second option is chosen if the wall has a thickness of one or one and a half bricks. (The names of the sides of the brick are shown in the illustration above in the text).


The brick is laid along the foundation, that is, with a spoon forward, if the base wall has a thickness of one and a half to two bricks. Moreover, only the front part of the row can be laid out this way, and behind it the brick can be placed across the foundation. In addition, some home owners prefer, in addition to external, internal insulation, which can be carried out using polyurethane foam or expanded clay. When performing this type of masonry, a space is left inside the row, which is filled with insulation. In this option, in the front part of the row, the brick is laid with a spoon outward, then the insulation comes, and behind it the brick can be laid along or across the foundation.


Another masonry option is alternating spoon and butt rows, which makes the wall more durable.

For the construction of the plinth, cement mortar M-75 or M-100 is most often used, since it is most suitable for this part of the structure. When laying the first row, the solution is applied to the waterproofing material, and then to the row below, in a layer no more than 20 mm thick.

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay


If the base is being erected under a massive structure, then it is strongly recommended to strengthen it with reinforcing metal mesh made of VR-1 wire with a diameter of 3÷4 mm, with a cell size of 50×50 mm.

If the decision is made to reinforce the plinth belt, then you need to know that the mesh is laid before applying the solution, that is, the concrete mixture is applied on top of it. To prevent the mesh from shifting during work, it is recommended to fix it in several places using wire, which is inserted into the mortar of the joints between the bricks of the previous row. Some craftsmen simply temporarily press down the mesh by placing a few bricks on top.

There is no point in laying a grid between all the rows. Practice shows that the proper strength of the structure will be fully achieved if the “density” of laying the reinforcing mesh is one per 3–4 rows.

When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the following points, on which the duration of operation of the plinth belt will depend:

  • The seams of the masonry rows must be well fitted. There should be no empty spaces between the bricks - all gaps are filled with mortar. In addition, the seams must have the same thickness, otherwise the masonry will be sloppy.
  • When designing a plinth, ventilation holes (vents) must be installed in it, which must be located at a height of 150 mm from the blind area, in increments of 3000 mm, and have a size of 150 × 150 or 200 × 200 mm. In the absence of ventilation, the walls of the closed basement space will begin to become damp from the inside, which will eventually lead to the development of mold or mildew and the appearance of an unpleasant odor inside the house. It is recommended to close the ventilation windows with decorative grilles, which will protect the basement rooms from unwanted “guests” - birds, rodents, and other small animals.

Bricklaying is a whole science!

In addition to perfectly level walls, a very complex operation in brickwork is traditionally the creation of corner nodes. Their dressing can be done in different ways. All the nuances of the process are in a special publication on our portal.

Waterproofing a brick plinth

Waterproofing the base is traditionally the most important task, since both the durability of the base itself and the safety of the building walls from ground moisture depend on it.


Waterproofing should be carried out in two versions - vertical and horizontal moisture protection.

Vertical waterproofing

This process consists of applying moisture-proofing compounds or roll materials both to the foundation strip and to the side surfaces of the base, and sometimes to the lower part of the wall of the house: this way, the joint seams between these parts of the building can be protected from moisture. There are several ways to vertically protect the base:

  • Coloring – this method is quite simple, and consists of coating surfaces with special varnishes or paints. The positive aspects of painting include the ease of work and a thin layer of applied material, which provides high-quality protection of surfaces from moisture. The disadvantages of this method are the short service life of the protective coating and, accordingly, the need for its periodic renewal.

  • It is produced with thick bitumen compositions, solutions based on liquid glass or special cement-containing mixtures, which are applied in a layer of a certain thickness and, after hardening, form a kind of moisture-resistant membrane or impenetrable “crust” on the surface.

Bitumen solutions have a certain elasticity and perfectly protect the surface. However, such a layer is not resistant to mechanical stress, so it is recommended to cover it with decorative cladding. In addition, such a base with a black coating does not look aesthetically pleasing, so in any case it will require additional finishing.

Liquid glass is a strong and durable material that is resistant to external influences, but its disadvantage is the lack of elasticity, which can lead to damage to the layer when the walls of the building shrink. In many ways, this also applies to cement-based coating compositions - they also clearly lack elasticity.

  • Impregnating solutions , consisting of liquid polymers and synthetic resins, are designed to penetrate the structure of the material, in this case, bricks and the cement mortar that binds them. At the same time, such chemical components not only form a protective film on the surface of the wall, but also fill the pores inside the materials, crystallize and create a reliable barrier to moisture. Such compositions are capable of penetrating into the depth of the wall structure by 200÷250 mm, depending on the number of layers applied.

This approach is also convenient because carefully executed masonry after such waterproofing can be left without subsequent finishing - impregnation does not significantly affect appearance base

  • Pasting the base with roll waterproofing . This method can be called the most popular, as it has advantages over the options described above.

There are a lot of rolled waterproofing materials of domestic and foreign production on sale, made on a bitumen or, even better, a polymer-bitumen base. Their laying on the walls of the foundation strip and brick base belt is done by gluing them onto mastics (some brands also have a self-adhesive layer) or by fusing them with a gas torch.

The advantage of adhesive waterproofing is its highest reliability - high-quality modern rolled materials, fixed in compliance with all technology requirements and protected from mechanical damage, are famous for their enviable durability.

Horizontal waterproofing

After the construction of the brick plinth, before the start of laying the walls, a mandatory horizontal waterproofing. Its main task is to prevent capillary “suction” of moisture from the base to the walls. And during heavy rainfall or periods of snow melting, there can be a lot of unnecessary moisture in the base area.

If selected roll waterproofing, then its strips are laid in two layers. Often, bitumen mortars are also used to secure them, since it will be easier to further lay the wall using the fixed sheets.

Liquid waterproofing is applied to horizontal and vertical surfaces using a brush or roller, but most often both tools are used. The waterproofing layer must be continuous and completely sealed, and this cannot be achieved by applying the solution only with a roller, especially if the plinth structure contains internal corners. For work, a soft brush with a width of about 150 mm is used.

It is not difficult to calculate the amount of waterproofing material - just calculate the area of ​​the surfaces on which it will be applied and determine the number of protective layers. The packaging of any waterproofing material must contain information about the area for which its packaged quantity is designed - this should also be taken into account when making calculations.

See how foundation waterproofing is done correctly!

This task is quite large-scale and quite costly, but there is no escape from it. Why you need it and how it is carried out – read in a special publication on our portal.

Base insulation

According to research results, up to 30% of the house’s heat evaporates through an uninsulated base when its wall freezes. This inevitably leads to completely ineffective energy costs, an uncomfortable environment in living quarters, and in the future, to the appearance of dampness and the appearance of mold colonies with all the accompanying “pleasures.”

To insulate the base, extruded polystyrene foam is most often used, which is glued to the walls using a cement-based construction adhesive specially designed for thermal insulation operations, and then additionally fixed with mechanical fasteners with wide “fungi” caps.

Some owners, trying to save money, use regular polystyrene foam instead of high-quality extruded polystyrene foam, and this is wrong. Polystyrene foam has a much more pliable soft structure, so mice can easily gnaw through it, making passages and holes in it. In addition, under constant external influence of moisture and temperature changes, the foam gradually loses its shape and begins to crumble into individual granules.

Extruded polystyrene foam (such as Penoplex) is much denser and stiffer, and therefore not as comfortable for. And some modern models with carbon inclusions - they become insurmountable obstacles for mice and rats.


The material has a perfectly flat surface, so if installed correctly, it can even level out small unevenness in brickwork.

The insulating material is fixed on top of the waterproofing layer, but if for some reason the decision is made to abandon the latter, then the surface of the base requires preliminary preparation.

Preparatory activities include the following processes:

  • Cleaning brick wall from protruding fragments that may form due to the masonry mortar remaining on it and hardening.
  • Additionally, it is recommended to walk over the surface with a wire brush.
  • After this, the walls are covered, instead of which it is best to use impregnating waterproofing.
  • After the applied layer has dried, you can proceed to installing the insulating material. To do this, the adhesive mass is mixed and “fungi” fasteners, a hammer and an electric drill are prepared.

Penoplex prices

penoplex

Insulation work is simple and takes place in the following order:

  • The finished surface must be marked, calculating the required amount. If necessary, individual sheets can be adjusted to size and cut. It should be noted here that if you have to cut the panels into three or four parts, then it is best to mount such elements closer to the middle of the basement wall, and secure solid insulation boards in the corners.
  • In order for the bottom row of insulation to be installed exactly horizontally, it is recommended to fix a supporting, guiding metal profile at the bottom of the wall, at the junction with the blind area. This element will help not only to correctly align the sheets and hold them in the desired position, but will also make it easier to secure them.

  • Next, an adhesive mass is applied to the edges of the slabs, along their perimeter, and also pointwise in the central part of the surface. Moreover, here you need to take into account that after pressing the slab to the base, the glue must cover at least 40% of its surface, but at the same time, not protrude along the edges.
  • The next step is to secure the insulation boards to the wall with plastic mushrooms. The caps of the fastening elements must be recessed into the insulation, that is, they must be in the same plane with the surface of the slab. Important - such mechanical fixation is carried out only for areas that are located above the ground level line. If some part of the base, after filling with soil, is below ground level, then the insulation is attached exclusively with glue - the waterproofing cannot be damaged by drilling holes.
  • After completing the installation of the insulation, it must be protected from exposure to ultraviolet rays. For this purpose, plastering technology with simultaneous reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is often used. The same adhesive composition is usually used as the base plaster. First, a layer of 2-3 mm is applied, into which the mesh is embedded. And then, after the initial setting, a second layer is applied so that the total thickness reaches 4÷5 mm.

The corners of the insulated base also need to be reinforced using special aluminum or polymer corners with vertical strips of sickle mesh attached to them, which are also glued to the wall with an adhesive solution.

  • When the base adhesive plaster layer has dried, decorative plaster, facade paint can be applied on top, or the base can be faced with one of the plinths specially designed for this purpose.

If the design of the plinth includes in-wall insulation, then for this purpose, as mentioned above, expanded clay or polyurethane foam is used, which fills the voids of the wall during its construction.

How to determine the required thickness of insulation for a brick plinth?

Like any other house structure, the basement requires the “correct” approach to insulation. This means that the thickness of the thermal insulation must provide such resistance to heat transfer that it complies with the standard indicators established by SNiP. In principle, this is what the calculation is based on.

Below you will find a convenient calculator that allows you to perform calculations very quickly and accurately. For greater clarity, several explanations on using the program are provided.

The basement is a very important element in the entire house. The choice of material for its construction must be approached with full responsibility. Many experts advise making brickwork. This plinth is reliable, strong and durable, so it is ideal for the foundation of your home.

But it should be borne in mind that it is a complex matter, and building it is not as simple as it seems at first glance. This should be done by a real master. Although life sometimes makes its own adjustments and forces you to learn this skill yourself. Fortunately, in our age of Internet technologies, you can learn everything, and experience will come with time, the main thing is to follow the theory.

Laying a plinth in 2 bricks

As already mentioned, the best building material is. For a long time it has been the most popular, especially often used when laying a plinth.

When choosing a brick for a plinth, it is worth considering that it must be durable and weather-resistant. Sand-lime brick is undesirable due to the fact that it absorbs moisture. Acid-resistant and clinker bricks are too expensive. Therefore, the most suitable is ordinary red fire brick.

For the base, brickwork is usually made of 2 bricks; it is quite strong and will withstand any load. But don’t forget about the solution, it is also important. In our opinion, the most suitable solution is M75; it is quite flexible and rigid. To give the base additional rigidity and strength, it should be reinforced every four rows. To do this, use a special metal mesh with 50x50 cells.

When laying the plinth, you need to take into account the load of a single upper brick - it should be distributed over the two lower bricks. Another very important point: when you lay a plinth with two bricks, you will need to ensure that the rows are perfectly even, but also do not forget about the correct tying of the corners.

A brick plinth on a strip foundation is the lower part of the wall to increase the stability of the structure, the masonry of which is made on the surface of the base of the house. From the first days of its existence, brick has gained immense popularity in the construction industry, especially low-rise buildings and country houses. In our article we will talk about the characteristics and implementation of laying a brick plinth.

Main characteristics

The type of material and shape of the base directly depends on the foundation. For strip base characterized by the location of a flat surface above the ground. The laying of the brick plinth plays a very important role for the stability of the structure.

If you choose the wrong brick or carry out the construction in violation of the technology, then deformation of the box may occur. This part of the building is located between the blind area and the walls. Building standards must be met, since the base is constantly susceptible to precipitation and mechanical damage.

The choice of material is also a very important part of the process. The best option is considered to be red burnt brick, which has a uniform structure and smooth surface. It is worth noting that silicate stone can also be suitable for these works, but only in the area above the waterproofing.

Important! If you use sand-lime brick, you need to protect it from precipitation.

Tools and materials for work

For these works, a material of high strength and undeniable quality is required. Therefore, it is important to familiarize yourself with the best bricks for masonry.

When doing masonry, we may need materials such as:

  • Bricks;
  • A solution of cement, sand, water and plasticizer;
  • Mesh for masonry.

In addition, we need tools to get the job done:

  • Master OK;
  • Pickaxe – hammer;
  • Shovel type;
  • Order;
  • Cord;
  • Level for construction tasks;
  • Water level;
  • Joining;
  • Metal rod;
  • Trough;
  • Plumb.

When building a basement, in addition to bricks, you need to purchase the optimal amount of cement and sand - the main ingredients of the mortar.

Attention! When you go shopping, remember that it is better to have more materials than not have enough.

Preparing the foundation for masonry

The preparatory stage of work consists of two such actions:

  • Checking the horizontalness of the foundation and its diagonals;
  • Leveling the surface.

The first point can be diagnosed using a hydraulic level, with which we first check the corners, and then the entire area.

Attention! In order to make the foundation below zero, it is necessary to think about this even when pouring it. If it is already ready and has some deformations, then it is necessary to correct the defects. After analyzing a large number of videos and photo instructions, we have compiled the main ways to fix this.

When creating a foundation for zero, you must perform certain actions:

  • We check the position of all corners with a special hydraulic level device. We write down all deviations in this way: if the angle is 20 mm higher, then we write +40.
  • We install the formwork on the base of the house;
  • In all corners of the formwork we mark zero points, which will be the level when pouring the solution. Each such layer must be higher than 30 mm, otherwise the concrete will not be strong enough.
  • We create cuts, the lower part of which should be identical with the zero points;
  • We carry out installation of fittings;
  • Mix the ingredients for the solution: 1 part sand to 4 parts cement;
  • We moisten the base of the house with water and fill the formwork with the solution;
  • We use a rope to check the zero value through the cuts.

In addition to this work, there is a need to analyze the state of the diagonals. If this is a rectangular base, then there must be them and the parallel sides must coincide in length. All this will add up to create the evenness of the walls of the house.

Attention! The discrepancy between the diagonals can be corrected while the masonry is being laid. Namely, the length of the walls decreases and the short structure increases.

Basics of the Waterproofing Process

Waterproofing is performed to protect the base from various types of precipitation. For our case, when the material is brick, this process is performed twice, namely:

  • Under the plinth on the base;
  • Under the wall on the plinth.

The waterproofing layer may contain a cement solution or a special mastic roofing material. A protective tap can be installed around the perimeter, which is made of asbestos-cement or reinforced concrete slabs.

The principle of leveling the foundation with brickwork

It is worth considering that the walls of the house exert constant pressure on the foundation. The stability mechanism of the building frame depends on the proportionality and evenness of each of its components.

To make a level foundation while masonry is being done, you need to find the following tools:

  • Shovel;
  • Plumb for construction purposes;
  • Roulette;
  • Hammer;
  • Cement tank;
  • Master OK.

To create an ideal bottom, you need to start by laying out a layer of sand. The lower part is not visible, but all the irregularities are reflected in further work.

Attention! The lower compartment cannot be leveled later, so this needs to be taken care of right away.

Formwork High Quality will allow you to create a smooth interior and exterior. However, in isolated cases, the womb does not help.

Methods for leveling the foundation

  • Using formwork and pouring concrete;
  • Brick lining method;
  • Covering with mesh, which is covered with plaster;
  • Creation of an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Important! There is a certain standard for the thickness of a horizontal seam: for example, the largest value should not exceed 1.2 cm; the deviation should be no more than 1.5 cm from the horizontal for every 10 m. These standards are fixed by SNIP.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a plinth

Initially, the masonry process begins with the first dry layer of bricks. This process is necessary in order to perfectly plan the subtleties of the series. Next, we mark the foundation for future vertical seams.

Preparing a brick

For this project, the best choice for us is red solid brick, which must be treated with water. To ensure that the material is always at hand, you need to spread it around the base in small groups.

Making a solution

One portion of the solution contains the following ingredients:

  • Cement - 1 part;
  • Sand – 4 parts;
  • Water;
  • Plasticizer.

Attention! Proportions may vary depending on the desired result. Basically, 3-6 portions of sand can be added to 1 part of cement.

The process of laying a plinth

Here are the main tips taken from monitoring video recommendations:

  • Masonry should begin from the corners of the structure. This action will guide you in the further process;
  • Horizontal seam thickness building regulations should be 1.2 cm, with reinforcement - 1.6 cm;
  • To obtain such a seam, we recommend using a 12 by 12 metal rod, which should be placed along the edges of the future base.

A number of steps in this process:

  • The solution is laid out using the trowel method;
  • The brick is placed on the cement and pressed slightly;
  • We check the vertical and horizontal of the building with a level;

Advice! If there are discrepancies or inconsistencies, the materials must be trimmed with a hand trowel.

We carry out wall laying

Wall laying is carried out in the following sequential steps:

  1. We stretch the mooring cord, which will help create an even row between opposite rows of the same horizontal line;
  2. We make the first row of bricks along the cord line.

Attention! The thickness of the joints and the location of the first row are based on marks on the foundation, which are made when laying without mortar. That is, dry.

  1. Further rows are laid out according to the principle of ligating the seams;
  2. Constantly monitor the cleanliness of the walls and unstitch the seams in time - before the mortar dries.
  3. It is recommended to do reinforcement every five rows.

We insulate the structure

The most optimal solution for insulating a structure is a solid heat insulator, which is easy to install, does not lose its shape and retains moisture. In this way, the masonry is insulated using glue without sorbent and acetone. During this process, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps.

Attention! If they appear, then it is necessary to fill them with polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

The final step of this process is coating with plaster.

The last stage - finishing work

When performing the cladding process, you need to choose only durable and reliable materials that have a high level of waterproofing and resistance to precipitation.

These materials include the following types:

  • Ceramic tiles;
  • Plaster;
  • Stone - natural or artificial.

Attention! Experts advise doing face masonry, which is faster and more profitable.

A brick plinth is the most reliable and rational solution for construction problems.

The base is a transition from the foundation directly to the structure itself. Its correct construction plays a key role in the quality of the future home. For this reason, it is very important to draw up a competent project and strictly follow it. When building a basement, you should think in advance about what material you will use. Laying a brick plinth is the preferred choice because it can be laid on a foundation of any material. From the article you will learn everything about the features of this type of masonry, as well as how to do it yourself.

Features of a brick base

The basement is the above-ground part of the building and is located above the foundation. Usually its top mark is the beginning of the first floor. Reliable is a difficult task, but with a little experience you can do it yourself if you carefully read the instructions.

A brick base is used for a strip foundation.

First, you need to take into account the weight of the future building in order to correctly calculate the load on the base. It is important that it is not excessive. Unlike decorative elements, a supporting structure such as a plinth can only be built once. Take the time to do the calculations to avoid a lot of problems later.

Typically, the foundation rises 30-90 cm above the ground level, and the recommended height is at least 50 cm. In some cases, for example, if the building is being built on a hilly area, the height can be significantly higher. If the building has a basement floor, its height can reach up to 2 m.

Solid brick should be used for construction.

One pallet contains 300-330 pcs. bricks (depending on the manufacturer). Always purchase bricks with a reserve. As a last resort, you can always use it in other stages of construction.

Selection and purchase of bricks

The result of construction directly depends on the choice of brick. The construction of the plinth is best done using solid clay bricks. Unlike hollow brick, it better resists moisture penetration. Ultimately, the hollow brick fills with condensation and begins to collapse. As a rule, this happens within 3-4 years. The destruction of brickwork can lead to deformation of the entire building, which will make major renovation inevitable. Therefore, you should not buy hollow bricks, even if they have a high grade.

It is better to purchase the material with a small reserve.

When purchasing a material, you should pay attention to its specifications. Of paramount importance are indicators of stability and resistance to compression, as well as frost resistance. The masonry of basement walls should be made of bricks of grade M-200 and higher. Its frost resistance level must be at least F50.

In order for the brickwork to be durable, better withstand bad weather and last as long as possible, it must be provided with a system of hydro- and thermal insulation. This will not only prevent excess moisture from entering, but will also protect the brick from changes associated with sudden temperature changes. The installation of insulation does not present any serious difficulties; you can do everything yourself.

The basement or basement can be warm or cold. If we are talking about building a bathhouse or country house, a decision is often made in favor of a cold base. In this case, its insulation is not carried out. This does not change the masonry and its construction, but only skips the stage of creating thermal insulation.

Waterproofing and insulation

The issue of waterproofing needs to be resolved before you start laying bricks. The first horizontal layer of insulation must be laid directly on the foundation. As a budget option, 2 layers of roofing felt or other rolled material are suitable. The layers must be glued together. This can be done using bitumen mastic.

When the installation is complete, you need to make another horizontal layer of waterproofing. It is placed at the height of the lower ceiling.

Diagram of horizontal waterproofing device.

It should also be said that vertical insulation The walls of the foundation and the lower part of the plinth are repaired using mastics, special polymer compounds or roll materials.

As for insulation, the best material that can be used to protect the base from temperature changes is polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation must be done after the construction of the basement has been completed. The insulation is attached to the outside of the walls. It is very important to choose the right adhesive composition. Usually they use mastic or glue that does not contain acetone, solvent or other solvents. If you choose mastic, buy cold one.

If you are limited in finances, you can make insulation from ordinary plaster. This way you can do without special insulation material.

Algorithm for masonry work

After all materials have been purchased, the preparatory stage is completed. You can move on to construction. How to lay out the base correctly?

Preparation

You need to first purchase cement mortar that will hold the brickwork together. The most suitable option is considered to be a solution of the M-75 brand.

The selected solution must be laid out and leveled a little. We must strive to ensure that the layer thickness does not exceed 2 cm. Reinforcing mesh must be placed in this layer. Make sure the mesh is made from 4mm BP-1 wire. The mesh cells should not be large, ideally 50 by 50 mm.

Construction of masonry

After placing the mesh, brick laying begins. You need to lay out 4 rows of the base, and then lay the mesh again. This will firmly strengthen the masonry.

Bricks are laid in horizontal rows. If you do everything yourself, you can simplify the task a little and lay out the bricks in one row. At the same time, alternate the bond and spoon layers. That is, lay one layer across the walls and the other along.

The direction of laying bricks should be alternated from row to row.

To ensure that the masonry is of high quality and durable, check the following points:

  • make sure that the seams of adjacent rows fit well together;
  • check the angle between bricks lying in opposite rows - it should be straight;
  • organize a system of ventilation ducts along the entire perimeter of the base - their size should be from 15 to 25 cm and they should be located every 3 m at a level of 15 cm from the ground.

In addition, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the plinth wall. It must correspond to a certain pattern. It is necessary that the thickness value be a multiple of the brick dimensions: 1 brick - 25 cm, 2 - 51 cm, 1.5 - 51 cm, and the height should not be less than 35 cm. This is the last stage of construction - the laying of the brick plinth is completed. Now you can proceed to the construction of the blind area and finishing work.

Laying bricks with your own hands is not easy. If you are not confident in your abilities and want everything to be done correctly, contact professional builders. They will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

Construction of the blind area

Creating a blind area is a mandatory step in the construction of a basement. The fact is that it protects it from the penetration of moisture, namely melt water and precipitation. Its maximum width should be no more than 60 cm, but at least 20 cm higher than the roof extension level.

Construction of the blind area.

Excellent materials for blind areas can be stone, asphalt and concrete. If you are installing it yourself, start from the corners. Treat them with sealant and begin installation.

Finishing the base

Many people refuse to cover the base, considering this stage unnecessary. In fact, the cladding serves as another layer of waterproofing, so do not underestimate its importance. Brickwork is constantly exposed to an aggressive external environment and does not resist moisture well, so it will not be damaged by an additional protective layer.

For greater efficiency, you should choose moisture-resistant and durable materials. Natural or artificial stones, as well as ceramic tiles. The use of plaster is allowed. Don't forget to consider the overall style of your home. Any Decoration Materials should fit well into the intended appearance.

Now you know how to lay out a base with your own hands. Laying bricks requires certain skills and knowledge, so it should be done strictly following the instructions. If you have no experience in construction, most likely the work will take quite a long time. Try to consider these costs as an investment, because the basement protects your home from negative external influences. Moreover, correctly selected materials will give it a complete and well-groomed look.

The base occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary excavation work and laid the foundation for the future house. Now, in his free time, he lays a brick plinth on the foundation.

Bricks for masonry of the second row

Vadik, the owner of the future cottage, is an economist. He is interested in all the ways to reduce costs. When purchasing a plot and designing it, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it was cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the profession of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on strip foundation

It is better to choose baked brick. Its technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, stability are much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made for the walls from different materials, from poured reinforced concrete to stone. The red brick for the plinth combines:

  • required strength;
  • simplicity of brickwork;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out a plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. This takes a long time, since you need to wait for the applied material to harden and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing felt in 2 layers. The strips are cut according to the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bitumen glue and fixed to the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture yourself or use a ready-made one bought in a store. I added washed river sand to the heated bitumen. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the plinth

Bassoon base

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time passed after it was filled. It could shrink, washed away by rainwater. Unevenness of the base plane will lead to the distortion of the entire house and constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are carried out using a ruler level, tape measure and cord.

  1. I measured the strip foundation using a rack level along and across in several places. It is better to do this in the corners and every 2 meters in length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, place a board underneath.
  2. On the foundation in the corners I laid dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. A regular rectangle has the same cord size from corner to corner. If the lengths are different, then the angles are not right. For a brick base of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
  3. Find the distortion and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. We measured in the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having adjusted the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. I then marked the position of the brick base. Now, having pulled the cord and secured it to the pegs, I marked the outer side of the walls. All that remains is to lay out the brick base. I was confident that the geometry of the house frame was correct.

My friend applied glue to the top of the strip foundation with his own hands and laid layers of prepared roofing material connected together with a bitumen mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not become damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, for waterproofing, I laid a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a cushion and compensate for unevenness. For strength, I embedded a metal mesh with a 50 mm mesh in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

Brick base

We began preparing the ditch for the strip foundation after completing the house project. Then I knew exactly what the width of the brick plinth should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the plinth may not withstand it. Cracks will form on the walls. Repairing and strengthening a house will cost more than construction.

How wide the foundation should be is determined by laying the base. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal laying in two. Such a foundation is made for lightweight houses made of wood, foam concrete, and shell rock. For walls made of wood and light material for cottages with 2 floors, one and a half bricks (380 mm) are suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use wide masonry for a brick plinth in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done with this foundation in about 15 years.

It’s easy to determine the width of the finished plinth. 10 mm is added to the dimensions of the brick for each seam. I did alternating rows:

  • two rows of bricks across the foundation;
  • the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

This plinth guaranteed stability for multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repairs to the exterior of the basement may be required after a few years.

Selection of materials for a ceramic brick plinth

Silicate blocks can only be used in dry climates

While buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to buy and why. I advised him solid. When temperatures change, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. In just a few years it will need repairs. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in more cheap way build a brick plinth. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if major repairs are being done, the walls are broken. The brick is cleaned of old mortar and placed tightly in the base, choosing the least damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a foundation is inferior to one laid out of new stone, with the correct geometry. The load on it is reduced. Do-it-yourself styling is difficult for a beginner. You must constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the required size.

I used M-75 cement mortar as a binding material. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

  • cement;
  • sand;
  • milk of lime;
  • After stirring, add water.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: for one bucket of Portland cement M500, add 0.8 liters of lime, diluted in water to the state of milk. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added in parts for the first time and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should stay on the trowel in a heap and not slide off the inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% of the volume in the dry mixture. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience who work slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the hardening of the solution.

Brick bonding in the basement and waterproofing

Laying a brick plinth with your own hands

My friend laid a layer of concrete on top of the waterproofing layer and pressed the mesh into it. Now I was laying the base. I need a helper to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site that was simpler, along a straight line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours I got used to doing everything myself. I secured 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now all that remained was to lay the brick, pressing it against them. Nails for the outer line cord were easily driven into the wood. This device comes in handy when you need to repair the corners and façade of a house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as a helper, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was working, I marked openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the wall masonry.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with a bandage half the width of the brick. Our outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now, when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable and eliminated any repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Brick plinth laying

Having finished laying the base, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a cushion under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the roof overhang, plus a strip to ensure rainwater drained onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the base, destroy the foundation, and you will have to make repairs by removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior decoration with decorative stone on the concrete mortar after the walls were built.


The base is the lower part outer wall building, which is erected on the foundation and plays the role of a barrier between the wall and the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena. A building without a basement covering is at risk from mold and rot and retains heat less well inside during cold periods. The main condition for a brick plinth on a strip foundation is high strength. Its structure must support the entire mass of the walls of the building. High-quality materials with high level resistance to frost, moisture and pressure resistance.

Today, there are three options for the base that are used in the construction of residential premises:

  • Outgoing base. From the name you can understand that this coating extends beyond the outer walls of the house. This type of plinth will be used if they want to achieve additional heat resistance during frosts or if the style of the building itself requires this, because from an aesthetic point of view this option is more attractive. To prevent water from remaining on the surface of the base, it is usually equipped with grooves or a drainage system.
  • The base butt with external walls has recently been used extremely rarely. This fact is due, first of all, to the absence of any useful properties in this type of base.
  • Recessed plinths are used in the construction of residential buildings. Built 6 cm deeper than the plane of the external walls, this type of plinth can save money on organizing water drainage and will also ensure the safety of the waterproofing layer.

What should be the width of the plinth


The dimensions of the plinth directly depend on the material from which the walls of the building will be built. Such information is always contained in the general plan and on the project drawing. With walls made of foam block (which is sometimes also called gas silicate brick) with a long surface of 60 cm, a width of 30 cm and a height of 20 cm, the masonry must have a thickness of at least 30 cm.

If further construction involves installing an additional insulating layer on top of the walls, then the width of the plinth should ideally be 38 cm. However, in the case when brick is used as decorative element, built on top of walls made of foam concrete blocks, the thickness of the base increases by another 22 cm, after which it will be at least 60 cm.

Deciding on the height

Until now, construction workers do not have a clear answer to the question of what the height of the basement covering should be. As the level at which the top point of the masonry should be located, it is best to take the height of precipitation that has fallen over the past few years. This masonry technology is the most reliable and guarantees a long service life for future buildings erected on a strip brick foundation.

But in practice, most often, basement masonry is found with a height equal to the floor of the first floor of the building. This technique also applies to buildings with a basement floor. Fashion and style trends in our time imply that the house has a high and massive base, which can highlight the living space, giving it elegance and elegance.

Insulated brick plinth on a strip foundation

We remind you that all work on organizing the plinth is carried out on an erected strip base.

Marking the corners

One of the most important rules in the construction of not only the base, but any building in general, can be considered the correct determination of the angles of the structure. Negligence in this matter will certainly lead to curvature of the surface of the walls, which will ultimately lead to their partial or even complete load-bearing capacity.

To correctly set angles, several technologies are used, but the following method is considered the simplest:

  1. A row of bricks is laid at all corners of the base of the building without the use of cement mortar. In this case, the planned width of the future structure must be observed. The corners are inserted using a building level.
  2. Next, measure the length and width on both sides, as well as the diagonals. All readings must match to the nearest centimeter. Measurements are taken using a tape measure or twine.
  3. It wouldn’t hurt to check the future walls again for any irregularities. The same twine is used for this.

Waterproofing the base surface

In order to ensure reliable protection of the basement masonry from groundwater, care should be taken to organize the upper part of the foundation with an insulating layer, the functions of which can be performed by roofing material folded in half. It is glued to the surface of the base using bitumen mastic, a burner or heated bitumen. Also used as a waterproofing layer are glass insulation, euroroofing felt or an improved type of roofing felt, which is based on cardboard - rubemast.

Bricklaying


Having provided the surface of the foundation with a waterproofing layer, you can begin laying the brick plinth. To fasten the bars, a solution of cement, sand and water is used. When constructing the basement, only red brick without holes or cavities is used.

They begin laying out the base from the corners, placing the rows opposite each other, and covering the surface of the material with a solution 2-2.5 cm thick. After laying out several rads, the surface is checked with a level.

Having reached the minimum height of the plinth, which is 4 rows of standard bricks, you can begin to build walls. The surface of the base is decorated with decorative stone or siding. It is not uncommon to resort to decorating the base with finishing tiles. Using a base covering, the strip foundation is leveled with bricks.

If there is a basement in the room, holes should be provided in the basement for ventilation. They are placed at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil. The dimensions depend on the diameter of the vent pipe. From above, the base is covered with a waterproofing layer, the same as the surface of the foundation was previously covered.

Video about laying bricks on a strip base:

Basement is the lower part of the external wall of a house, built on a foundation and designed to protect the walls from the destructive effects of moisture. A house without a basement is at risk of mold infestation and rot, may lose its ability to resist cold weather and increase heat transfer between indoor and outdoor areas.

One of the indisputable conditions is the strength of the base, because it bears the entire weight of the walls of the house. That is why the materials used must be of high quality, characterized by frost resistance, low moisture resistance and pressure resistance.

There are three plinth options used in construction:

  • Outgoing - goes beyond the wall. This option is justified in two cases - it is part of the building design (aesthetically it is more advantageous) or there is a need for enhanced insulation of the basement floor. It must be equipped with a slope or groove for water drainage.

    Outgoing cap sample

  • Standing end-to-end with a wall is an unpopular option today due to the lack of useful qualities.
  • Recessed 6 cm into the wall of the house is the most optimal when building a house. It has a number of advantages: savings during construction, protection of the junction of the plinth and the wall, which ensures the safety of the waterproofing layer, and the absence of an indispensable condition for ensuring the discharge of water.

    Recessed plinth example

Base width

To select the overall width of the plinth, you should refer to the building design drawing to determine the material that will be used to construct the walls. For example, for gas silicate bricks (commonly known as foam concrete) with a side size of 600 X 300 X 200, the thickness of the masonry should be 30 cm, and if additional wall insulation is planned in the future, then a width of 38 cm is what is needed. But when using brick as a decorative element on top of foam concrete blocks, the thickness increases to 60 cm.

Base height

The question of where the base ends remains controversial to this day. The most reliable option is to determine the height based on the maximum amount of snowfall over several decades. The base, calculated using this simple technique, will protect the walls from the effects of capillary moisture, thereby increasing the reliability and durability of the built house.

But basically the height corresponds to the level at which the floor of the first floor of the building is located. This rule also applies to houses with a basement.

Designers usually prefer tall, as it gives the home lightness and grace.

Construction of a recessed brick plinth on a reinforced concrete strip foundation.

(The following instructions are intended for construction on a ready-made foundation.)

  • Setting up corners when building a plinth.

One of the most important rules for laying a plinth is the correct alignment of the corners, because incorrectly aligned corners will lead to further curvature of the walls and, accordingly, defects in the construction of the building.

The simplest way is this:

Place a row of dry bricks in all corners, determining the width of the planned base. Angles are set according to level.

Using a tape measure or twine, measure the lengths of all sides and both diagonals - the dimensions must coincide down to centimeters and be correspondingly equal.

It is also worth checking future walls for possible curvature, using the same twine along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

The process of constructing a plinth

Waterproofing the upper surface of the foundation.

Insulation is necessary to further protect the base from groundwater.

Two layers of roofing felt are laid on the foundation in the following ways:

  1. on bitumen mastic or heated bitumen;
  2. connection with a burner, treating the surfaces of roofing material.

You can use rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material.

Basement waterproofing

Brick plinth laying

After setting the corners, it’s time to start laying the base. To create it, bricks are usually used, bonded with cement-sand mortar. Only solid red brick is used for construction.

It is advisable to start the laying from the corners, then lay the rows opposite each other on one side with a thickness of the applied solution of about 20-25mm.

A plumb line checks the accuracy of laying the vertical surface after 3-4 rows of bricks.

After the final check of the corners, the wall laying begins. To make the row even, a thick fishing line is stretched between two corners.

Brick plinth laying

The minimum height is at least 4 laid rows, finishing in the form of natural stone, finishing tiles or siding is allowed.

If the house has basements, holes for ventilation are left in each side of the base at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, measuring from 7 x 25 to 15 x 25 cm. If the length of the building exceeds 3 meters, the vents are in increments of 2.5 meters and covered with nets or small gratings.

Brick finishing of the base

Basement waterproofing

To protect against moisture penetration, you need to lay waterproofing materials Having made a distinction between the plinth and the brick wall, for cheap construction you can use, for example, roofing felt folded in half. Of course, you don’t have to make do with only them; the choice of materials for insulation is now quite extensive. Double waterproofing is necessary in order to protect the house not only from the external influence of the elements, but also from the influence of groundwater on the foundation.

Basement waterproofing scheme

Video - how to make a brick plinth

The basement is the outer part of buildings, located on the foundation and representing the transition from the base to the walls. In addition to its load-bearing capacity, the base must withstand various external influences. Therefore, it is necessary to select all materials with special care and responsibility!

Features of a brick base

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with important details:
If the building material is brick, then you need to decide on the thickness of the frame.

Tip: Based on the size of the building and what material the walls will be made of, the thickness of the foundation directly depends. For example, the thickness for a brick structure should be from 500 mm (2 bricks), for a wooden one - at least 250 mm (1–1.5 bricks).

Before laying bricks, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing to the strip foundation, which will protect against moisture.

Good roofing material is used as waterproofing, but in some cases bitumen-based coating compounds are used, which must be applied in a layer of 1.5–2 mm. Roll material It will still be not only more reliable, but also simpler.

The bricks are laid flat so that the top layer of masonry overlaps the seams of the bottom row. Before starting laying, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the foundation. Each row must be checked for evenness using a building level.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the brick plinth will be different for each material from which the walls of the building are erected.

Preparatory work

This includes the purchase, preparation and subsequent installation of the selected mortar (cement or cement-sand). It is best to purchase solutions marked M75 for such work.

The prepared mixture is gradually laid out on the foundation in a layer of 2 cm and slightly leveled. It is necessary to lay a mesh of reinforcement in the middle of the layer; for its manufacture, VR-1 wire with a diameter of 4 mm is required.

Preparatory work consists of 2 stages:

  1. Checking the diagonal and horizontality of the foundation, which is carried out using a hydraulic level, which first of all needs to check the corners and only then the entire area.
  2. Leveling the surface. Attention! If you want to make a foundation at 0, then you need to think about this while pouring it. And if it is already completely ready, but there are deformations, then they need to be corrected.

What will you need?

To complete the masonry, you will need the following material, which must be reliable and of high quality:

  • brick;
  • Cement mortar;
  • Net.

To work you will need:

  1. Master OK;
  2. pick;
  3. shovel;
  4. order;
  5. cord;
  6. jointing;
  7. levels for construction work and water;
  8. metal rod;
  9. trough;
  10. plumb line

To build a foundation, in addition to bricks, you need to buy the optimal amount of sand and cement.

Laying work

The most important stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of the corners. The first row must be laid strictly across the entire width of the building. The solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

ADVICE: Sometimes a soap solution is used as a plasticizer. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality ventilation. You can start working only when the angles are equal to 90 degrees, and the dimensions of width, length and diagonal are the same.

ATTENTION! If the plinth is laid only from brick, then its width should be at least 50 cm; it can be less only if the insulation is made of foam plastic. If the building has a basement, then the height of the basement is 70–100 cm, but if it does not, then 40 cm.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, but the outside requires mastic, which is applied with a brush, roller or specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant monitoring of the level and cord.

ATTENTION! It is impossible to correct inaccuracies using the thickness of the mortar between the rows of bricks - the wall may collapse and then you will have to dismantle the entire structure!

Setting the corners

Setting the corners when laying the plinth is one of the main tasks; incorrectly placed corners will lead to curvature of the walls!

To do this, place a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the plinth. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, you need to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the angles are set correctly, then the dimensions should be identical.

ADVICE: in order to check future walls for curvature, measure along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

Laying a brick plinth on top of the foundation

You can begin installation only after all measurements have been made. To secure the bricks, a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3 is required, diluted with water to the required thickness of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is to carefully fill the vertical or horizontal joints with the prepared mortar to ensure the strength of the foundation.

Base insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which must be used to treat the entire outer surface, secured with a special glue - which does not contain acetone and solvents - which harm it.

Basement waterproofing

Before you start building the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

  • Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The most in a simple way is laying roofing felt in two layers. The first layer ensures the wall is protected from moisture, and the second layer provides protection.
  • Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed to the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the building additional protection.
  • Bitumen lubricant is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in a thick layer in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

ATTENTION! If you combine all the options, you will end up with high waterproofing!

Ventilation

The foundation masonry must have holes that are located at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or flaps.

Brick base protection

Protection is required if construction work must be stopped. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being built, which protects the frame from various unfavorable environmental conditions.

Although this article describes detailed instructions how to lay a brick plinth, they will not help if you don’t even have a little experience working with these materials.