Just as a theater begins with a hanger, so does the construction of any building, be it a luxurious mansion or a modest country house or a small garage, starts with the foundation. After all, the foundation is the basis of the future building. Therefore, a small flaw or negligence during its construction can lead to very big troubles, up to the impossibility of operating the constructed building without expensive foundation repairs. Moreover, there are cases when the costs of repairing the foundation exceed the costs of its construction.
The main type of foundation that is often used in construction is reinforced concrete monolithic foundations.
Therefore, the question of how to build a foundation must be taken seriously. First of all, you need to decide which one you need. The most common types of foundations used in construction in the private sector are strip (solid along the entire length of the load-bearing walls of the building), and less commonly, columnar (made from individual pillars) types of foundation. The choice of one type of foundation or another depends on the size of the building, the material of the future walls and the type of soil.
Foundation strengthening scheme.
It is necessary if in a building under construction it is planned to erect heavy walls made of brick, adobe, small concrete blocks, natural flagstone and when building a house with a basement. Such foundations are highly durable and reliable, but they are quite expensive in terms of material consumption.
A columnar foundation does not require such high costs. It consists of pillars and a grillage placed on top of them. Moreover, the grillage rests only on the pillars, without touching the ground. This design allows you not to worry about deformation of the foundation during seasonal soil shifts. It is suitable for building a small brick or wooden country house.
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Where to start
Strip foundation- this is a reinforced concrete strip that runs along the entire perimeter of the building under construction.
For some reason, everyone thinks that the first thing to do when building a foundation is to pick up a shovel. And they are wrong. To build correctly, first of all, you need to pick up a pencil and a sheet of paper and draw a drawing of the future foundation. Be sure to scale and refer to the cardinal directions.
On it we mark exactly where each load-bearing wall of the building under construction will be located. These are necessarily the walls of the perimeter of the building and those walls inside the perimeter on which the ends of the ceiling slabs will rest.
Before you start, you should purchase and deliver everything to the construction site necessary tools and materials, arranging them whenever possible so that they are always at hand. If at the same time you take care to build at least temporary sheds and storage rooms for their storage, then you definitely won’t go wrong.
If there is no water source on the construction site, you will have to dig a well or drill a well, because without a sufficient supply of water it is impossible to build a foundation.
But before starting construction, you need to prepare the area for the foundation: clear it of bushes, remove about 15 cm of the top layer of soil, level out the mounds and fill in the discovered holes. It wouldn’t hurt to plan the area adjacent to the construction site to take care of the drainage of excess rainwater.
Layout of a strip foundation.
The depth of any foundation depends, first of all, on the height of groundwater at the construction site and the depth of soil freezing in the construction region. At the same time, it is generally accepted that if the groundwater level is below the calculated freezing point of the soil by no less than 2 m, then on hard soils 0.7-1 m is quite sufficient. If such conditions are met, there is no fear of soil heaving during freezing, because that for this purpose they will not have the most important thing - excess moisture.
If the groundwater level is closer than 2 m to the calculated soil freezing point, then theoretically the foundation should be laid no lower than the calculated soil freezing point. In practice, it is better to take a laying depth that exceeds the calculated freezing point of the soil by 0.5-0.7 m in order to completely protect the future foundation from deformation during severe frosts.
The next very important stage is taking the project into reality and breaking it down. First of all, you need to decide on the cardinal directions and, accordingly, on the location of the walls of the house. The breakdown itself is done using pegs or iron pins, twine and a large triangle.
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Foundation breakdown
Foundation design diagram.
First, pegs are driven into the corners of the future foundation from its outer side. To make the marking correctly, the first peg is driven into one of the corners of the future building. From it, using a large triangle, you can determine two vectors converging at right angles, one of which is used to measure the required length using a tape measure, and the second is the width, and then you need to drive in the 2nd and 3rd pegs in the measured places. The location of the last, 4th peg is determined in the same way.
Now you need to check whether all the corners in the marked foundation will be right. This is done with an ordinary cord using the diagonal method. To do this, the cord is pulled between the 1st and 3rd pegs and the measured length is fixed. Then the diagonal between the 2nd and 4th pegs is measured in the same way. If the measured distances coincide, the layout is done correctly. If the distances differ, you need to redo the layout until the measured distances coincide.
When the dimensions match, nylon twine is stretched between the pegs to mark the perimeter of the future foundation. Now it will be easier to install additional pegs. Additional pegs are installed in those places where, according to the plan, internal load-bearing walls should be located. They are also worth noting the width of the future foundation, which is usually made 10-12 cm wider than the planned thickness of the walls.
Installation diagram of a columnar foundation.
To begin with, use a tape measure to measure the required width of the foundation in two directions from each of the four pegs and hammer additional pegs in the measured places. In the same way, measurements and installation of pegs are carried out for the internal load-bearing walls of a building under construction. The correctness of the marking of internal load-bearing walls is checked with a cord using the same diagonal method.
When the pegs are hammered, you need to stretch a thick fishing line or nylon cord between them. In this case, the cord is pulled in this way: the peg measuring the width of the foundation from the 1st corner peg along the length of the house is connected by a cord to a peg measured along the length of the house from the 4th corner peg. Similarly, the peg from the 2nd corner peg is connected from the 3rd corner peg. A peg, measured from 1 corner peg in width, is connected to its counterpart, measured from 2, and one measured from 4 is connected to one measured from 3. The pegs that mark the internal load-bearing walls are connected to each other along the width of the house.
Having done all these manipulations on, in the end you will get its outlined contours. But since a stretched fishing line or cord will subsequently force you to raise your legs high when stepping over them, it is better not to be lazy and duplicate the marked contours of the foundation with sand on the ground.
This will allow you to remove the cord during future work so that it does not interfere.
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Trench and foundation cushion
There are several types of columnar foundations. However, in general it is made from pipes, concrete and brick.
It can be dug using special earth-moving machines, but usually, when small foundations are built for private houses, trenches are dug for them by hand. Although it will take much more time, the trench will come out more neat and will exactly correspond to the given dimensions. In the future, this will avoid unnecessary costs of materials during construction.
The trenches are dug strictly along the outlined contour and to the required depth. The bottom of the open trench needs to be leveled and carefully cleaned; it is very advisable to walk along it with a tamper to reveal hidden molehills and holes. If any are found, they must be eliminated by covering them with earth (if the hole is more than 30 cm in diameter, it is better to use small crushed stone to eliminate it) and thoroughly compacting it using a tamper.
A layer of sand or gravel 20-25 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the trench and compacted tightly again. If the pillow is made of sand, when tamping it is better to thoroughly moisten the sand with water in order to compact the pillow as much as possible.
Why do you need to do such a thorough sealing of the pillow? This directly determines whether the future foundation will give rise to sediment, and what kind of sediment. To be more convincing, it is worth noting that a pillow settlement of 5 mm leads to a settlement of the top of the driven wall by approximately 7.5 cm, which is guaranteed to lead to the appearance of a crack in the wall of the house.
Next, a layer of crushed stone is poured onto the compacted cushion, which, when pouring the foundation, will serve as a support for the installation of reinforcement. If possible, in order to save materials, crushed stone can be replaced with broken bricks. The layer should not be made too large; a thickness of 20-25 cm is sufficient.
If you plan to waterproof it (some developers refuse it, although it will never be superfluous), then after installing the reinforcement cushion, it’s time to take care of waterproofing the lower part of the future foundation. Sheets of roofing felt or thick polyethylene film are perfect for this purpose. Other materials can be used, as long as they can reliably retain moisture in the concrete while it hardens.
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Installation of formwork and pouring the foundation
Foundation pouring diagram.
Foundation formwork serves to maintain the shape of concrete from pouring until it hardens. During construction small houses there is no point in purchasing a prefabricated set of factory formwork; it can be successfully replaced by planed boards on at least one side.
In order to do this, the formwork must be installed according to the depth of the trench plus 25-30 cm above the ground level. The boards are knocked together into panels, installed in the trench with the planed side facing the concrete and reinforced with spacers, which are driven between the formwork and the trench wall. At the same time, there is no need to save on spacers, because it is their quantity that determines correct installation depends on the ability of the formwork to withstand the internal pressure of the mass of unhardened concrete. When installing shields, you must constantly check that they are in a vertical position.
Also, when installing the formwork, you need to take care of the holes for the future installation of pipes: sewerage, gas, water supply, etc., which are usually laid through the foundation. To do this on required depth Pieces of pipes of the required diameter are placed across the formwork, filled with earth or wet sand so that concrete does not get into them.
To increase the strength of the foundation, you need to reinforce it. If it is not done, then a durable foundation may not be so durable. Reinforcement is the “skeleton” of the foundation. Typically, reinforcement with a diameter of 12-14 mm is used. When reinforcing, individual elements are knitted into a single frame, consisting of 2-3 rows of horizontal reinforcement connected by vertical reinforcements with a pitch of 15-25 cm. When laying the reinforcement, special care should be taken to ensure that it does not reach the formwork by at least 5 mm and subsequently was completely hidden by concrete.
Correctly choosing and building a foundation that is optimal for a certain type and size of a house means providing the building with solid support that will last for several decades. Even a structure designed by a genius will not last even a couple of years if it is installed on an unreliable foundation. Groundwater, seasonal precipitation, changes in soil density and mobility will quickly destroy such a building.
It is advisable to shift the care of choosing and equipping a foundation to professionals who have the proper experience and know how to build a foundation for a house. This will not lead to budget overruns, installation errors and, as a consequence, poor quality of support. Qualified specialists will not only help you decide on the type of optimal foundation, which will reduce the overall costs of building a house, but are also guaranteed to do the work to the highest possible quality.
Types of foundations for low-rise construction
Choosing a suitable foundation for a house is the main task with which construction begins. The wrong type will affect the durability of the building, strength characteristics or will cause unnecessary costs. Therefore, you should first decide on the type of support. To do this, a number of important parameters are taken into account.
Depth of groundwater. If they are too close to the surface, an inadequate foundation will lead to flooding and uneven settlement of the building.
Soil density and composition. Movable soils require one type of foundation, dense soils require another.
Depth of ground freezing. If you do not take this factor into account, then after each thaw there is a chance of cracks forming in the foundation, walls and ceilings.
Reinforced strip foundation with ventilation holes
IN low-rise construction Residential houses, cottages, bathhouses, barns and other outbuildings use four main types of foundations.
Tape. It is a continuous structure, which is located along the perimeter of the future building. It can be poured into formwork directly on site or assembled from concrete blocks made separately.
Slab. It consists of several layers, each of which performs a specific function. The top layer is a solid reinforced concrete slab.
Pile-grillage. It is assembled from pillars buried deep in the ground, which are connected at the top by a grillage-lintel that evenly distributes the load on the structure.
Pile. It is erected from supports that are located evenly under the entire area of the house or under places with the greatest load - corners of the house, walls, lintels.
Depending on the above factors, the building material and its dimensions, the final result is determined and a foundation project for the house is created.
Columnar foundation for light outbuildings
When building any foundation, the weight of the building must be taken into account. Lightweight outbuildings do not require a monumental foundation, so columnar foundations are most widely used for them. Their choice is due to the following qualities:
speed of installation;
low cost;
ability to provide reliable support.
The columnar foundation is installed on a cushion of sand or fine gravel; in the upper part, the pillars are connected by beams, on which the base will be installed in the future. It is important to take into account the depth of soil freezing and the degree of heaving. This type of foundation is suitable for low-moving soil, otherwise the structure may shift.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer foundation design and repair services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Pile foundation for frame houses
A pile foundation is several piles screwed or driven into the ground (thick metal pipes With anti-corrosion coating), on which the harness is mounted and the house is built.
Since this technology is relatively new and not all construction companies can boast that they master it perfectly, there are still cases when, some time after construction, a house sags somewhat under some piles. But foreign experience shows that such incidents occur only when the technology is not followed, and if the installation of a pile foundation is carried out according to all the rules, then it will become a reliable support for the house. In addition, piles allow the construction of buildings even on soils with a high degree of mobility.
Foundation for wooden houses made of logs
Structures made of rounded logs and timber have less weight than brick or concrete, but exceed frame houses, That's why the best option for them there will be a shallow strip or pile-grillage foundation.
The first option allows you to equip a basement, has sufficient resistance to loads and is relatively low cost. To ensure its durability, it is necessary to equip it with high-quality waterproofing and pour a thick sand cushion.
For a pile-grillage foundation, you need to dig holes to the level of soil freezing and connect them with isthmuses. Then concrete is poured into the pits and ditches and a concrete strip is obtained, from which pillars emerge, resting on the soil below the freezing level.
Construction of a pile-grillage foundation
These types of foundations provide the opportunity to equip a reliable and durable foundation that can easily support the weight wooden house one or two floors and will allow you to avoid unnecessary overpayment by installing an unnecessarily expensive support designed for an impressive mass.
Slab and strip foundations for stone houses
Buildings made of brick, concrete or building blocks require a strong foundation because they have an impressive weight and are completely devoid of plasticity, which, although to a small extent, is inherent wooden houses. The slightest movement of the base can lead to the formation of cracks in the walls and ceilings. Therefore, the best option would be a slab or buried strip foundation.
The slab base is a multi-level structure that fits into a pre-dug hole, slightly larger than the size of the building under construction. Pcastfoundation for the home consists of the following layers:
crushed stone cushion;
layer of sand;
waterproofing;
reinforced concrete slab;
second layer of waterproofing;
insulation.
This type of foundation allows you to withstand the heavy weight of the building and provides stationary support on heaving soils.
Strip foundation deep laying is mounted at a depth of more than a meter in order to be below the soil freezing level. Depending on the region and average annual temperature, this value may vary. Ribbon view the base performs double duty in addition to providing reliable support stone walls, it allows you to equip a basement, but in this case you will need to spend money on waterproofing and insulation.
Which foundation for a house will cost less?
When considering how to properly build a foundation for a private house and not spend more than necessary, you should take into account the type of soil, the weight of the structure and a lot of other characteristics, then you will be able to choose the ideal option.
Lowest cost and time required columnar foundation. But it has two significant limitations: installation only on low-moving or stationary soils and the low weight of the structure. As a result, it is categorically unsuitable for a residential building or heavy construction.
In second place are piles, but here everything depends on their type. Screw ones are the most inexpensive of all but are suitable for light buildings, bored ones are for brick and concrete, and driven ones provide high level stability, but are very expensive.
Strip foundation. The non-recessed and shallow-depth type will not cost much more than the columnar type, and the deep-laying tape has the highest price due to the increased volume of work and the use of a large number of materials.
A monolithic slab is the most expensive type of foundation, but provides maximum reliability on heaving soils. In some cases, such a foundation is the only option suitable for the soil.
What types of foundation are there? How is the foundation built and how much does it cost? See all this and much more in this issue:
As a result, it is far from a fact that a seemingly inexpensive foundation will remain so. Sometimes it happens, for example, that it is more profitable to make a monolithic foundation than to bury a strip foundation to the freezing depth. The choice of foundation should be based on a combination of factors because the price may change depending on the situation.
Slab foundation with bitumen coating for a brick house
Strip foundation - the best option
If the soil does not impose any special restrictions on the choice of foundation, then a strip foundation will be the best option. Its advantages compared to others:
ensures high stability of a building of any weight;
universal (depending on the situation, a certain type of foundation is used, which allows you to spend the budget within strictly defined limits);
the arrangement of hydro- and thermal insulation ensures resistance to soil freezing, protects against the formation of condensation and extends the service life of the support.
The only limitation for installing a strip foundation is high soil moisture, but there are few areas with such soils in our country, so in all other cases this type of foundation can be used.
Conclusion
The foundation is one of the most important parts of a building. It is stupid to save on it, it cannot be made of low quality, access to it will be greatly limited after the building is built, which complicates repairs. His equipment must be done immediately and well, so such work can only be trusted to professionals.
To make the foundation correctly, you need to carefully study the options for construction types and their features. The construction of the underground part is carried out taking into account the following requirements:
- economic expediency;
- reliability;
- strength;
- durability;
- sustainability.
Before starting construction work, a soil study should be carried out. The choice of the correct type of base is influenced by total weight houses, soil strength and groundwater levels. A foundation that is carefully made and built in compliance with technology will last a long time and will not cause problems during operation.
Preparatory stage
It’s worth starting with pits or drilling. The main goal of this activity is to find out what soils are located on the site, as well as to find out the level of groundwater. The foundation must be laid in compliance with the rule: the mark of the sole must be at least 50 cm above the level of the water horizon.
How to do soil testing correctly? Two methods are used for this:
- excerpts of pits (deep holes, dimensions in plan are usually 1x2 m);
- manual drilling.
In the first case, the soil on the walls of the pit is examined. They also check to see if water has left the bottom. In the second option, the soil on the tool blades is examined.
Once you have determined what kind of soil is on the site, you will need to find its strength indicators. This can be done using special tables.
The cost of laying the foundation for a house can be up to 30% of the estimate for the entire building. To avoid cost overruns, you need to perform a calculation that will allow you to find the optimal design parameters that will simultaneously guarantee minimum costs, strength and reliability. For your convenience, you can use online payment.
Types of foundations
Building a foundation with your own hands involves the use of several technologies:
- ribbon;
- combined options.
Columnar supports have a low load-bearing capacity. It is possible to install monolithic pillars or assemble them into compact concrete blocks. Both options are great for DIY projects.
There are three types of pile foundation for a house:
- driven (not recommended for private buildings due to the need to attract equipment);
- (suitable for the construction of brick or concrete house);
- (ideal for light wooden buildings).
Piles make it possible to reduce the amount of excavation work. There is no need to dig trenches or a foundation pit or transport large amounts of soil outside the site. Thanks to this quality, installing this type of foundation is a very economical choice. The main disadvantage will be the impossibility of equipping a basement or underground for engineering communications. In this case, the base of the building is covered with decorative materials.
Another advantage of piles is the possibility of using them in wetlands. Even if the groundwater level is located close to the ground surface, the supports provide the necessary load-bearing capacity.
The next option is tape. It can be made monolithic or from blocks. The second option is rational to use for mass construction. Strip foundations are:
- recessed (for buildings with a basement, brick and concrete structures);
- (for wooden and frame houses);
- non-buried (technology of pouring foundations for small buildings on a solid foundation).
Before making the tape, it is worth checking the groundwater level and compliance with the rule that the sole cannot be closer than 50 cm to the horizon groundwater. Otherwise, there is a high probability of flooding of the basement, reducing the load-bearing capacity of the foundation and destruction of the materials of the supporting part of the building.
What to do with high groundwater level? If the structure is made independently from brick or stone, screw piles will not be suitable, and for drilled ones it will be necessary to lower the water level. An excellent option would be filling. In this case, a non-recessed or slightly recessed base is made. The thickness of the slab is determined depending on the load, on average 300-400 mm.
How to pour a foundation for a house
Monolithic foundation type - best option for private housing construction. In this case, laying can significantly save on transportation and installation of structures. There is no need to hire a crane to install elements in the designed position or a KamAZ truck to transport concrete blocks and slabs.
Monolithic foundations can be made from factory-made concrete or you can mix the solution yourself using a concrete mixer. The first option is recommended. The fact is that it is very difficult to strictly observe the proportions of the composition in artisanal conditions. For factory-mixed concrete, such a guarantor will be a passport, which indicates the verified indicators of the material.
To make the material yourself, you will need to prepare clean water, cement, sand and crushed stone (or gravel). They are mixed with each other strictly observing proportions, which depend on what grade of concrete needs to be obtained. If you add a little more sand or crushed stone to the composition than required, the strength of the supporting part of the building will suffer.
To properly pour the foundation, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of concreting:
- Concrete must be poured in one go at time intervals of up to 1.5 hours. If you take long breaks in work, the solution sets and concreting joints form, which weaken the structure. The technology allows making horizontal seams if absolutely necessary. Arrange Monolithic foundation vertical seams unacceptable, since in this case the support of the house will not be able to resist soil deformations.
- The class of concrete is chosen depending on the type of supporting part. For a columnar or pile foundation, class B 15 is sufficient. For tape, grades from B 15 to B 22.5 are needed. Construction of a house foundation using slab technology requires concrete grades B 22.5 or B 25.
- After pouring, the material should gain strength. On average, this takes 28 days. Continue construction works It is possible after the structure reaches 70% brand strength.
- It is better to carry out work in warm, dry weather. The ideal average daily temperature for concrete hardening is +25°C. At temperatures below +5°C the material practically does not harden. For normal hardening in this case, special additives and heating are used.
- The concrete must be maintained within 1-2 weeks after pouring. It involves wetting the surface with water.
- To mix the mixture yourself, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone (gravel) and clean water. The proportions depend on the strength class. The material is delivered from the factory using a concrete mixer truck - it allows you to extend the life of the solution and deliver it over relatively long distances.
How to pour the foundation correctly? In general, work is performed in this order:
- installation of formwork and reinforcement cage;
- laying waterproofing material in formwork;
- pouring concrete;
- its compaction by vibration or bayonet;
- curing;
- stripping works (if necessary).
To quickly complete the work, it is recommended to order a concrete pump together with a concrete mixer. Concrete manufacturers are usually willing to provide this technique. In this case, it is necessary to use a concrete mixture of grades P3 or P4 in terms of mobility. Otherwise, the equipment breaks down.
Step-by-step instructions for pouring a strip foundation
Concreting is discussed using an example monolithic tape. To erect the supporting part of the structure, construction is necessary. To do this, use cast-offs and construction cord. You need to show the edges of the tape.
After marking, the soil is excavated. If there is no basement, it is enough to dig a trench. At its bottom you need to make a sand cushion. It performs several functions:
- ground leveling;
- prevention of frost heaving;
The edges of the trench must go exactly along the cord Next stage - . For this purpose, the material included in the estimate is used: boards (removable type) or polystyrene foam (non-removable). The second option serves not only as a form for pouring concrete, but also as insulation of the underground part of the building. When installing the formwork, I raise the base to the desired height.
The foundation is the basis of any structure. Its main purpose is to ensure the strength and reliability of the erected structure. Building the foundation is a key point in the overall construction of a house. If you want to build a foundation with your own hands, then do it as efficiently as possible! A well-laid foundation will extend the life of the building and protect it from the negative effects of the environment. The type of foundation is of great importance, the choice of which largely depends on the type of soil at the construction site and the type of structure.
Types of foundations and their features
You can build a house on any foundation; it is only important to take into account the natural conditions of the area where the construction site is located. The following types of foundations are used in modern construction:
- A columnar base is erected for wooden or light frame buildings, as well as for houses in which it is not planned to arrange a basement. Pillar bases are ideal for sloping areas. From an economic point of view, it is more profitable to build such a foundation at a large depth of soil freezing or in wetlands.
- A base in the form of a concrete strip is the most common option. The strip foundation can be erected under brick houses, and fencing. However, it is not recommended to erect heavy stone structures on a strip foundation. The strip base allows you to equip a basement in the house. The best place For the construction of the belt, an area with deep groundwater and an insignificant amount of soil freezing is considered.
- A slab foundation is an ideal foundation option for questionable soil characteristics. This is a reliable, solid foundation. The slab is one of the most expensive construction processes that requires precise calculations. Therefore, you should only choose as a last resort.
- The pile-screw foundation is very popular due to its high load-bearing capacity, low price and high installation speed. The weak point of such a foundation is . Erect pile foundation Possible on all types of soil except rocky soil.
You can order high-quality concrete mortar for pouring all types of foundations with delivery on the website beton174.ru.
Self-construction of the foundation for a house
In order for the foundation of the house to be strong and reliable, it is necessary to treat each stage of its construction very responsibly.
Stage 1. Marking the foundation.
Making markings for the foundation
The marking indicates the position of the future house, so from it correct execution depends on the strength of the entire structure. The main tools for this stage are wooden pegs and thick threads. The following actions are performed:
- Pegs are driven in along the expected line of the building's façade and a thread is pulled between them. The distance between the stakes should exceed the length of the house by 0.5 m.
- On a thread, mark the places where the corners of the house will be located, and draw lines perpendicular to the lines of the facade through these marks. Their length should slightly exceed the planned width of the house.
Advice! To check the perpendicularity of the corners, you need to measure 3 m along one thread, and 4 m along the other. If the distance between these points is 5 m, then the angles are right.
- Along these threads a distance equal to the length of the side walls is measured and marks are made using pegs.
- A thread is pulled between the marks, parallel to the line of the house facade.
Advice! To check the accuracy of the angles, you need to measure the diagonals of the resulting rectangle. If these parameters are equal, then the marking is done correctly.
- After all control measurements are taken, the internal lines of the foundation are marked. To do this, it is necessary to make a retreat of 0.4 m inside the perimeter. To more accurately mark the corners, the pegs are placed outside the perimeter.
Stage 2. Excavation work.
Earthworks during construction
You can do the work at this stage manually using a shovel. You can use special equipment that will speed up the process several times. depends on the type of foundation chosen: for a shallow-depth strip - 0.6-0.7 m, for a regular foundation - about 1.8 m. To arrange a sand and gravel cushion, an additional 20 cm is dug.
The walls of the trench must be strictly vertical; for checking, use building level. To prevent the soil from crumbling, you can install supports.
The bottom of the trench is carefully leveled, also using a building level to check horizontality.
The gravel-sand cushion is arranged in the following order:
- Sand is poured into the bottom in a layer of 10-15 cm, moistened and compacted.
- Sand is poured back in and thoroughly compacted again.
- A layer of gravel up to 15 cm high is laid on top of the sand, which is also carefully compacted.
Advice! To avoid erosion or silting of the shallow foundation cushion, the bottom of the trench can be covered with geotextiles.
Stage 3. Installation of formwork for the foundation.
Making formwork
Arrangement of formwork strip base– this is a very important stage. His main task is to choose the right material. After all, the formwork must withstand the load of a huge mass of concrete mortar. Most often used for the manufacture of formwork edged boards more than 20 mm thick or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. These materials are low cost and more accessible compared to other options.
Installation of formwork is carried out in the following order:
- Rectangular boards are constructed from boards, fastening them with transverse bars. It is better to use self-tapping screws as fasteners. This will make it easier to dismantle the formwork system in the future.
- The installation of shields is carried out on both sides of the trench with reinforcement after 50-70 cm with wooden spacers. Using spacers of the same length, you can achieve the same distance between opposite sides of the formwork.
- Outside, the formwork is secured with wooden supports. One side of the bars should be cut at 45 0. It is with this end that the block rests on the formwork panels. This design will make the mold more durable.
- Next, the formwork and the bottom of the trench are covered waterproofing material, which will prevent the tree from absorbing milk from the concrete solution. For this purpose you can use .
Stage 4. Creation of a reinforcing frame.
The reinforcing frame embedded in the foundation serves to strengthen the foundation and extend its service life. Most often, the frame for the foundation is made of steel rods with a diameter of 10-16 mm, and soft knitting wire is used to bind them together. The frame is created in the following way:
- The reinforcement is cut into rods along the length and width of the trench.
- Longitudinal rods, laid at a certain distance, are fastened with transverse elements every 25-30 cm. The result is a horizontal lattice.
- To create a three-dimensional shape, horizontal gratings are laid in several rows, also fastened with transverse rods.
At the corners of the foundation and at the intersection of the main tape with the load-bearing partitions, it is necessary to additionally tie the frame.
Stage 5. Pouring concrete.
To pour the foundation, you need to use high-quality factory-made concrete. It will be delivered to the site using specialized equipment. But to save money, you can prepare the mixture yourself on the site. For this you will need M400 grade cement, fine crushed stone and coarse sand. Compliance with the mixing proportions is a very important condition that guarantees the receipt of a solution High Quality. The mixture is prepared using the following technology:
- Sift 3 parts of sand and combine them with 5 parts of crushed stone.
- Mix everything thoroughly and add 1 part of water. In this case, the liquid is introduced in small portions until a solution of medium thickness is obtained.
- The solution is stirred until a homogeneous consistency is obtained.
The resulting composition must be poured in layers of no more than 20 cm. It is very important that the solution fills all the voids in the reinforcement frame. To compact, you can use small reinforcement bars, piercing the poured mixture with them. This will also remove any air bubbles that may have formed when mixing the solution. If you use a special vibrator, you can increase the strength of the poured base several times.
The next layers should be poured according to a similar pattern until the concrete is even with the stretched line. The top of the concrete mixture is leveled using a trowel.
Dismantling of the formwork can be done after two weeks, and further construction is recommended to begin only after a month.
Important! During the entire period of strengthening the foundation, it is necessary to monitor its surface. From rain and sun rays it is necessary to cover the foundation with plastic film. To avoid cracking, maintain constant moisture.
How to build a foundation for an extension to a house
Sometimes, after the main construction is completed, the need arises to build an extension to the house. To avoid troubles during the operation of this part, it is necessary to build it on a high-quality foundation. To do this, you must follow the established rules:
- The foundation of the house and the extension must be exactly the same.
- For rigid fastening of the additional base, the reinforcement frame of the main building is connected to the reinforcement of the extension.
The process of pouring the foundation for an extension is carried out using the same technology as the main tape.
Creating a foundation for a house with your own hands is a very responsible and time-consuming process. However, if you follow all the rules and regulations, you can make a high-quality and reliable foundation with your crayfish.