Pool made of polystyrene foam blocks. Swimming pool at the dacha made from blocks with your own hands Construction of swimming pools from expanded clay concrete blocks

Building a swimming pool is a modern fashion trend. Today, many owners of country houses want to have a beautiful artificial pond on their property.

It is quite possible to build a swimming pool for reasonable money today. This requires your own hands and modern building materials.

And, of course, you need to clearly understand all stages of construction.

Table of contents:

Option with a ready-made bowl

Sheet steel pool
Pool made of concrete blocks
Finishing a finished pool

Selecting a location for a future pool

First you need to study the area to choose optimal location, where the future structure will be located. There are a number of factors to consider. Such a place should be inaccessible to prying eyes.

Trees are not recommended above the pool that will pollute the water surface. In the open space, the water is heated unhindered by the sun all day long, so in the evenings you can soak in a warm bath. It is advisable that the selected area is not located in a lowland, otherwise after rain, debris and dirty water will get into the reservoir.
The construction site should not be removed from engineering communications, since electricity and running water will be required.

Good to know
It is highly advisable to combine your artificial pond on your property or in your house with some kind of bathhouse. For example, a swimming pool with a hammam. Great combination!

The combination with a sauna is also good. You can learn about home infrared saunas from this article.

What shape should the pool be built?

The choice of the form of the structure is associated with the upcoming costs, the proximity of outbuildings and the house, landscape features, personal preferences, functionality and aesthetic considerations.

Changing the radius of the oval structure helps make the pool unusual or the installation of an original staircase in a rectangular structure.

Option with a ready-made bowl

To install a ready-made pool, it is necessary to perform a significant amount of work with the construction of the pit, since its dimensions depend entirely on the size and shape of the finished bowl. This is not all the difficulties: it is necessary to build a technical room below the bowl - communications will be located there. Reliable waterproofing of this utility room is necessary.

The disadvantages of such a pool are the high cost of construction and the complexity of the work. At the same time, using a bowl does not make it possible to obtain a pool of any shape.

Types and features of bowls

The finished bowl can be an inflatable or frame structure. However, such a pool can only be considered as a temporary option - there is no way to make it harmonious with the surrounding landscape, and the service life of such a reservoir is short.
Popular pool-bathtubs are bowls made of ceramic, composite material or fiberglass.
Advantages:

quick installation;
maximum waterproofing;
wear resistance.

Flaws:

high cost of installation and transportation;
only standard projects;
impossibility of installation indoors.

They also build concrete stationary pools, the lining of which is mosaic material, polymer film, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Installation of a finished polypropylene bowl

It is better to dig a pit with an excavator, as it is much faster. Then the bottom is covered with a ten-centimeter layer of sand and compacted well. The formwork is mounted on the sand and the reinforcement cage is tied together. The walls of the formwork are insulated with roofing felt. Only after this is concrete, a quarter of a meter high, poured inside.

A polypropylene bowl is mounted on the resulting plate. Insulation is laid between it and the concrete slab. After installing the bowl, a reinforcement frame is made around it, the formwork is strengthened, insulation is installed, and then the space between the blocks is filled with concrete.

What if you do without a bowl? Pool made of polystyrene foam blocks

There will be a pool bowl, of course. Only the bowl will be constructed from polystyrene foam blocks. These blocks will serve as permanent formwork for the concrete. This technology is called “Thermod”. By the way, this technology can be used to cast not only a pool bowl, but also the foundation of a house and even the entire house.

To lay out such a structure, the installation kit includes:

special fastening systems;
skimmer and pump;
mortgages;
filter;
facing film;
mounting fittings;
ladder.

First, the foundation is prepared, then polystyrene foam blocks are placed on it. When laying, holes are made in the blocks, and then reinforcement is inserted into them to tie them together. A skimmer is placed at the top of the pool - a tank that purifies the water. The stairs are installed and the polystyrene foam cavities are concreted.

After the concrete has hardened, a facing film is attached and the surface is covered with decorative slabs.

Sheet steel pool

Sometimes a pool is made from steel sheets. To build such a structure, you first need to prepare the foundation. It can be a concrete slab made using traditional technology. It is also acceptable to use reliably compacted soil. A non-woven fabric is laid on the base, and a covering film is placed on top of it.

Good to know

It is clear that stationary swimming pools are not a cheap pleasure. There are different options to reduce the cost. Building a pool with your own hands is one of the most reliable ways.

Another way is to build a frame pool on the site. The technique is not complicated. Everyone can handle it.

And, of course, the pool must be preserved during our long winters. How - http://izbasv.com/health/konservatsiya-bassejna-na-zimu.html

The shape of the pool is organized by a steel strip equal in height to the depth of the bowl. The ends of the strip are fastened with a steel profile that provides the required rigidity.

The advantage is the production of the facing film in the shape of a bag. The owner can only lay it down and wait for it to straighten out.

After preparing the film, you need to fasten it around the perimeter. After filling the pool with water, it will finally straighten out.

The final stage of installation is the installation of decorative and additional accessories and elements.

Pool made of concrete blocks

It is allowed to build a pool using concrete blocks. The main advantage is that this material is familiar to home craftsmen. In addition to concrete blocks, the kit includes:

skimmer;
pipes;
ladder;
facing film;
cleaning device;
adhesive sealant;
pump;
sand filter.

Having prepared the base, they begin laying the blocks. A staircase is installed in one wall. Next, a waterproofing layer is made, on top of which a facing film is laid. From the outside, all joints are sealed.

Having completed the construction of any bowl, all that remains is to carry out the finishing work, giving the constructed pool an aesthetic appearance.

Finishing a finished pool

All finishing elements must be fixed even on curved planes, this protects the base and also creates a durable additional waterproofing layer.

Among Mosaic remains the most popular finishing method. It was used by the ancient Greeks. Mosaic is popular for its practicality; it can be used for any pool bowl.

The bowl is also lined with PVC film. This is a modern, inexpensive and practical material. Tiles have been used for finishing swimming pools for a long time. It can serve as a decoration not only for the bowl, but also for the surrounding space around it.
The choice of material is an aesthetic decision that serves to ensure design and style.

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Planning and design selection

We should start, of course, with the project. First you need to assess the condition of the site, decide on the location where the pool will be located, select the size of the tank, bowl configuration, etc.

An important point is the level of occurrence of the first groundwater horizon from the surface in the area. If this figure is less than one meter, i.e. groundwater lies high, it is not recommended to build a permanent pool in a pit.

As an alternative, you can consider installing a portable frame or inflatable model. When choosing a place to build your own pool, you should consider the following recommendations from experts:

The pool should be located at a sufficient distance from a residential building and other buildings, since the close proximity of these structures can have a destructive effect on the integrity of the building’s foundation.
It is not advisable to locate the pool in close proximity to trees or plant them later, so that the root system, attracted by a large amount of moisture, does not grow and destroy the frame of the structure.
The presence of a large number of trees near the pool also increases the intensity of its pollution with foreign debris and stimulates the growth of algae.
Best suited for building a swimming pool clay soils, which serve as an additional barrier to ground moisture, if there is a choice, just such an area should be allocated for the pool.
Digging a large pit by hand is an extremely labor-intensive task; it is better to choose a place to which construction equipment can be brought: an excavator, a concrete mixer, perhaps crane and so on.

When a place has been chosen, you need to take a sheet of paper and draw the future structure on it. You should select the configuration of the bowl and its depth, and also indicate the location of all communications: the location of the water supply, the ladder for descent, the location of the filter, overflow, lighting, external lighting, etc.

At this stage, it is necessary to take into account the prevailing wind direction on the site. Debris that falls on the surface of the water will be carried by the wind to a specific side of the pool.

In hardware stores you can find pool equipment kits that include everything needed for installation. This set may include:

waterproofing materials;
materials for the construction of pool bowl walls;
fittings;
flanges and nozzles;
filter, pump, skimmer;
ladder;
PVC film for finishing, etc.

The basic set can be supplemented with other elements, depending on the features of the future pool project.

When choosing the size of the structure, you should remember that for one adult a depth of 1.5 m is considered suitable for swimming, and the recommended length of the pool is about 5 m. If you plan to install a diving board or tower, then you should build a pool with a depth of 2.5 m or more.

The deeper the pool, the larger the volume of its bowl, the thicker the walls of the pool should be made, and accordingly, the more materials will be needed to complete the work.

Separately, it is worth discussing the issue of the configuration of the future pool. Here you should remember the following principle: the more complex the shape of the bowl, the more effort will be required to implement the project and subsequent maintenance of the pool.

The easiest way to build a pool is with a rectangular, round or oval bowl shape. If all these points are taken into account in advance and the project is drawn up correctly, much fewer problems will arise during construction.

For example, if there is no clear design, after pouring the bowl, you have to additionally drill concrete to make holes for communications.

Installation of a concrete pool

Since working with concrete mixture is familiar to most builders, a pool cast from this material is considered the most affordable option for self-made. But you can’t call it simple and easy.

Pit and sand and gravel pad

As mentioned earlier, it is best to use an excavator to dig a pit. If this is not possible, for example, there are no access roads for such bulky special equipment, you can perform this work manually, although this will require much more time.

To prevent the walls of the pit from crumbling, they are given a slight slope during the excavation process. An additional recess is made in the center of the bottom of the bowl to create a separate drainage well. The bottom of the pit should also have a slight slope (5-7%), directed towards the place of water drainage.

Backfilling begins from the drainage well. It is simply filled with crushed stone and compacted flush with the surface of the bottom of the pit. After this, the bottom is covered with a layer of sand and gravel. At the same stage, you should consider the features of installing drain structures, etc.

First, a layer of sand about 20-30 cm thick is placed on the bottom, which is compacted thoroughly and evenly. Then a 10-centimeter cushion of gravel is laid on top, which should also be compacted.

Pool bottom concreting

After installation of communications, you can begin to fill the bottom with concrete. You can prepare the mixture yourself using the following recipe:

625 kg of sand;
325 kg of cement;
1250 kg of crushed stone;
170 liters of water.

Since you will need a lot of concrete, it makes sense to buy, rent, or even make your own concrete mixer. For calculation required quantity mixture and its components, you can use the online calculator. Such services are available on many websites of suppliers of cement and building materials.

It also makes sense to consider purchasing ready-mixed industrial concrete, especially if special equipment can be brought directly to the construction site. In the recommendations on how to make a concrete pool with your own hands, there are two options for concreting the bottom of the pit.

In the first case, a layer of concrete screed 5 cm thick is first poured. Then a layer of reinforcement is mounted on top, which is filled with another layer of screed. Some masters recommend reducing time and effort by using the second filling option. In this case, first install the reinforcement, which is installed at some distance from the sand and gravel cushion using supports (pieces of brick will do).

Then concrete solution is poured onto the bottom so that it covers the bottom of the pit and all the reinforcement. To prepare concrete mortar, it is recommended to use cement grade M 400 or higher. The reinforcing mesh can be made from 6-8 mm metal wire.

The recommended cell size is 150-200 mm. The rods can be welded, but it will be easier to simply fix their position with thin wire. Now you need to wait for the concrete screed to dry. From time to time, the surface of the concrete is moistened with water to ensure uniform drying.

Formwork and wall filling

Now you need to make formwork to make the walls of the pool bowl out of concrete. For this you will need a 30 mm board. You should immediately make sure that there are mounting holes in which the pool equipment will be installed.

To improve the adhesion of fresh mortar to an already laid concrete base, the base must be moistened before starting work. For the same purpose, aluminum powder is added to the solution for the first layer of wall filling.

It is not necessary to use new boards for formwork; even old used structures, for example, with traces of old paint, etc., will do. The main thing is that they can withstand the weight of concrete. Moisture-resistant plywood is also suitable for these purposes. It can be bent, so it is more convenient than a board when creating formwork of a non-standard configuration.

The formwork should be additionally reinforced with stiffeners. They are made from 50X50 mm timber. The ribs are installed approximately 500 mm apart. If it is planned to make a stationary staircase made of concrete, then the sheathing for it must be made separately.

The reinforcement that is needed to give the concrete walls of the pool additional strength is also made in advance. Metal rods are installed immediately after the first layer is poured, before the concrete has time to harden.

After this, the concrete is poured in layers, each about 150 mm thick. After about four days, the concrete will be hard enough for the formwork to be removed.

Waterproofing and finishing

After the concrete has completely dried, work can continue. First, waterproofing work is carried out. Some craftsmen consider it necessary to insulate only the so-called cold seams, others advise laying a layer of waterproofing over the entire surface of the pool bowl.

Roofing material is quite suitable for the role of waterproofing, the sheets of which are laid with an overlap of approximately 200 mm. You can also use liquid rubber, bitumen, PVC membrane or modern building mixtures with hydrophobic properties. It is important to take into account costs, since the area of the pool bowl is usually large, and such building mixtures are quite expensive.

To improve the quality of waterproofing work, you must first level the walls by sanding. If used liquid waterproofing, which is sprayed on the walls, you need to apply two layers. In this case, it is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh between the first and second layers.

After the waterproofing has dried, it is necessary to check its quality. To do this, the pool is filled with water and left for 10-12 days. The water level should be measured at the beginning and end of this period. A small difference between these indicators is quite expected, since water evaporates from the surface.

But if the water decreases at too high a rate, it means that the waterproofing was done incorrectly and the work should be repeated. After this, the surface of the pool can be plastered with a suitable composition to prepare the base for further finishing. A decorative border is made along the top of the pool. It can be cast from concrete or laid out from brick.

All that remains is to install the remaining equipment and then line the pool walls with finishing material. Most often, ceramic tiles are used for this. Due to the pressure of the water layer, the walls of the bowl may be slightly deformed. This does not have a very good effect on the condition of the tiles: they crack or crumble.

To prevent such an unpleasant phenomenon, you need to make a wide seam between the tiles, and use a compound with increased elasticity for grouting. It is quite difficult to lay tiles on uneven surfaces. Owners of swimming pools with complex configurations are better off using mosaics rather than tiles.

After completing the finishing work, you need to wait a little more time so that the glue has time to dry well. After this, you can fill the pool with water to check the quality of its manufacture and the operation of the equipment.

Construction of a wooden pool with a bowl on the surface

An option for organizing a swimming pool at your dacha, which is quite acceptable in terms of price and cost of construction, is to build a frame from a board and lay a waterproofing shell inside it.

Stage #1 - base and frame

To install a structure located entirely on the daytime surface, you need to build a rigid, level base that can withstand the weight of water and swimmers collected in the bowl, and build a frame:

Stage #2 - waterproofing the frame

After the frame has been erected, it should be equipped to connect communications, pumping and control equipment, and be prepared for laying the internal waterproofing coating and installing additional accessories.

Stage #3 - connecting communications

A swimming pool is a hydraulic structure, for the normal operation of which and to provide conditions for swimmers, a number of technical systems are required: a pump, a group of filters, etc.

The technique requires protection from atmospheric influences, which will be provided by a box attached to the narrow wall of the bowl.

Stage #4 - arranging important details

Finally built on summer cottage The pool is equipped for ease of operation and maintenance.

Alternative options for constructing a bowl

When figuring out how to build a concrete pool, do not forget about alternative options erection of the bowl. For its construction you can use:

concrete blocks;
expanded polystyrene blocks;
steel sheet;
finished structure made of fiberglass or plastic.

When using concrete blocks, the bottom of the pool is first poured, but the walls of the bowl are laid out from these same blocks. Every third row of masonry should be reinforced to give the structure additional strength. You can also make a stationary ladder from the blocks, instead of a stepladder, which is not so convenient.

It looks very attractive, costs much less than ceramic tiles, and is much easier to install. But the service life of this material is only 5-7 years, then the finish will have to be updated.

Large format polystyrene foam blocks are also laid on a concrete base. They are connected using grooves and ridges provided by the design.

The material is very convenient to work with because it weighs little. If necessary, the blocks are trimmed with a regular hacksaw.

After the masonry is completed, the pool equipment and fittings should be installed. It is placed inside the cavities existing in the blocks.

The space between the communication pipes and polystyrene foam is filled with polyurethane foam. After this, liquid concrete is pumped into the cavity with reinforcement. When the structure is dry, you can begin finishing the finished bowl.

A pool made of steel sheets can be made either on a concrete base or on carefully compacted soil, although the latter option is not as reliable as a screed. Since the steel sheet is supplied in a roll, it is most convenient to make a bowl from it in the form of a circle, oval or figure eight.

The edges of the sheet are connected with a special profile, which avoids welding work. After installing the bowl, it is covered with PVC film and filled with water so that the finishing material is pressed tightly against the walls of the bowl. To fix the film along the top of the side, use a fastening profile. After this, the technical equipment of the pool is installed.

A finished bowl made of fiberglass, plastic or modern composite materials is not a cheap pleasure, even if you choose a standard design rather than a custom-made one. To deliver and install the bowl, you will have to use a crane and other special equipment. First you should dig a pit of a suitable configuration. Then its bottom is leveled, covered with a layer of crushed stone or gravel and compacted.

After this, you can lower the bowl to the bottom of the pit. The space between the walls of the pit and the bowl is filled with soil and compacted. Such structures usually do not require additional waterproofing and finishing. All that remains is to install the equipment and begin operating the pool.

The weight of such pools is usually relatively low, so owners of areas with high levels of soil freezing should exercise caution. In winter, frozen groundwater can simply push the bowl to the surface.

Useful information can be seen on the topic

The experience of pouring the bowl of a small rectangular concrete pool is clearly demonstrated here:

This video shows in detail the process of finishing a pool with PVC film:

Practical experience in operating a swimming pool and an overview of possible errors, as well as ways to eliminate them, can be seen in the following video:

Obviously, setting up your own pool on the site can be done even by a novice master. To do this, you need to properly design the structure, and then carry out everything necessary work, strictly following the technology. At proper care a homemade pool will serve for many years, remaining clean and comfortable.

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Basic kit

This is quite possible if you have the desire and basic skills, as well as a special set of materials and equipment supplied by swimming pool manufacturers. The required set includes wall materials for the construction of a swimming bowl, waterproofing, facing film, embedded parts, fittings, flange assemblies, underwater nozzles, a skimmer, a pump, a filter and a ladder for descent. The basic kit can be supplemented with various accessories: underwater lights, counterflow device, protective coating, a tool for cleaning the bottom and sides of the bowl.

Quick installation

In the examples discussed below, all three pools are capital in-ground structures, however, their shape, size and weight of the wall elements require simple and quick installation.

The components for swimming pools are very convenient for manipulation, be it lightweight large-sized polystyrene blocks, heavier and smaller concrete blocks, or a steel strip rolled into a compact roll and easily fixed with special profiles. The facing film has a roll width that is optimal for cutting and installation, and in some cases it is already welded into a ready-made “bag” according to the size of the bowl.

Before constructing a reservoir, it is important to determine in advance its location, size, shape, as well as the material of the walls for the pool. Consulting specialists can be of great help in this regard. It is also worth assessing your capabilities in advance and understanding which part of the work you can do yourself, and for which it is better to use the services of a professional.

Pool walls made of polystyrene foam blocks

Even the walls of residential buildings are successfully erected from expanded polystyrene blocks, so building a pool bowl from them will not be difficult. It is from these large-format blocks (XXL size) that the pool bowl measuring 8 x 4 x 1.5 m is built. The impressive dimensions and light weight of the blocks make it quick and easy to lay out the walls. The concrete mixture is used only after the completion of laying the walls: it fills the cavities of the blocks, concreting the wall to its entire height. The construction and installation system kit includes fastening and reinforcing elements, embedded parts, a facing film and a protective non-woven fabric, a ladder for going into the water, a sand filter, a pump, a skimmer, two nozzles, fittings and pipes.

The special shape of the pool is due to the presence of so-called Roman steps for descending into the water. Expanded polystyrene serves not only as a structural material, but also as a heat-insulating material.

Photo 1. The foundation for the pool is ready. The package contains a custom-made Roman staircase.
Photo 2. The blocks are large in size, light weight and tongue-and-groove fastening, which simplifies the construction of the pool walls.
Photo 3. You can cut blocks to size and cut technological holes in them using a hand saw.
Photo 4. Reinforcement bars are inserted into the voids of the blocks and tied together for subsequent concreting.
Photo 5. Top view: the fittings and the pipe passing through the wall for connecting the nozzle are visible.
Photo 6. At the point where the pipe exits, the joint between it and the pool wall is sealed with sealed self-hardening foam.
Photo 7. At the top of the wall there is a built-in element for placing a skimmer, and fittings are laid on top.
Photo 8. A “Roman” ladder made of fiberglass reinforced polyester is installed in the prepared recess.
Photo 9. Then they begin concreting the walls, filling the cavities of the blocks with concrete mixture using a pump.
Photo 10. The walls and bottom of the bowl are lined with a facing film and the pool is filled with water. Decorative slabs are laid around the perimeter.

Pool walls made of steel sheet

The pool bowl can have different shapes: round, oval or figure eight. The base of the reservoir is a concrete monolithic slab or well-compacted soil. In the latter case, before laying the facing film over the base, it is necessary to lay a protective non-woven fabric. The structural and formative basis of the structure is a wide strip of sheet steel, which is supplied in rolls and unrolled immediately before installation on the construction site. To fasten the tape into a ring, a special steel profile is used, with the help of which a strong and stable bowl structure is mounted. The pool liner comes in a large “bag”, which makes the job much easier. Along the perimeter of the bowl, the film is fixed using a ring fastening profile. Installation of technical equipment is carried out after finishing the lining and filling the pool with water, tightly pressing the film to the bottom and walls.

The Fun model has the following dimensions: diameter - up to 6, depth - up to 1.5 m. The bowl can be either completely buried in the ground or rise above it up to half the height - strength steel structure this allows.

Photo 1. The base of the pool in the form of compacted soil or a monolithic concrete slab should have a height of 20 cm, which is taken into account when preparing the pit.
Photo 2. The concrete or soil surface is lined with non-woven fabric to protect the facing film from mechanical damage.
Photo 3. The lower fastening profile is placed on the base and connected into a ring. Then they unfold the steel tape-wall and fix it in it.
Photo 4. After installing the top ring profile and vertical end fasteners, the steel strip forms a round bowl.
Photo 5. The film lining is inserted into the bowl, pressed against the walls, straightening the folds, and fixed on top with a ring fastening profile.
Photo 6. To remove wrinkles at the bottom, pour water into the pool in a layer of about 2 cm and smooth the film in the direction from the center to the walls of the bowl.

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Probably everyone wants to have a swimming pool on their property near the bathhouse. Moreover, most of them want to spend a minimum of money on construction. For some reason, a brick pool is considered the cheapest, although if everything is done correctly, it will not be cheaper than a monolithic one, and may even be more expensive. Let's look at why.

1 Technology for building a brick pool
- 1.1 Preparing the pit
- 1.2 Preparing the base for the bottom slab
- 1.3 Reinforcement
- 1.4 Concreting the bottom
- 1.5 Construction of pool walls made of bricks
- 1.6 Plastering and interior finishing
- 1.7 External waterproofing and insulation
2 Small in-ground brick pool in the bathhouse
3 Plastic liner lined with brick
- 3.1 Installation on the ground
- 3.2 Recessed installation
4 Pool made of blocks
- 4.1 From polystyrene foam blocks
- 4.2 From the fundamental
- 4.3 Above ground round pool made of blocks

Brick pool construction technology

You can build a brick bowl with your own hands, but it will be a difficult task. There are several reasons for this:

As you can see, the task is not easy. All these problems exist when building a pool made of concrete, but with brick everything is complicated by the fact that the wall is not monolithic. The leakage of the material also adds complications: additional waterproofing measures are required.

Somehow you need to organize the drainage of water. Usually, for this purpose, a technical pit is made near the pool bowl, which is deeper than the pool bowl. The pipe from the drain hole is led into this pit, and there I install a filter unit. Overflow holes in the walls will also be needed. Water from the surface will drain into them. In this way, a stable level is maintained and the most contaminated upper part of the water is removed.

Methods for organizing water drainage

In general, when making a brick pool, the work order will consist of the following steps.

Pit preparation

Mark the dimensions of the pit on the ground - it should be at least 80-100 cm larger than the dimensions of the bowl. Do not forget about the need to make a pit near the main bowl or at a distance, as well as about a ditch that should connect them - a pipe is laid in it.

Dimensions are marked using pegs and twine.

First, the fertile layer is removed, then a pit is dug to a depth of at least 40-50 cm deeper than planned: there will also be bedding, a bottom slab and finishing materials.

Preparing the base for the bottom slab

Mark and lay the pipe under the drain. It should go at a slight slope towards the pit. The embedded parts themselves (grid and shutter) will be installed much later - after plastering.

It is better to make the dimensions of the bottom plate 40 cm larger than the planned dimensions of the bowl. This will better compensate for soil heaving.

First of all, we prepare the foundation pit

On the selected area (mark it with pegs and strings), level the bottom, making a slight slope towards the drain. Compact the remaining soil, leveling the bottom.

According to the rules, the next layer is geotextile. This is a thin but very durable non-woven membrane that can withstand greater loads, prevents the displacement of soil layers and does not interfere with the drainage of water. In non-heaving soils, it can not be laid.

The next step is to fill in the bedding and compact it. First it is crushed stone of medium and fine fraction. The layer is about 20 cm. If the groundwater level is high, gravel is laid along the edges of the platform drainage pipes, which is discharged into a drainage pit or into a system (depending on how your groundwater drainage system is organized). The gravel is compacted carefully using a vibropress. Then there is a 10 cm layer of coarse sand. It is also compacted, to make it easier - it is spilled with water.

A bedding of crushed stone and sand is poured onto the leveled bottom.

The next one is the waterproofing layer. In a budget version, this is high-density polyethylene film. But it is practically useless - it will break in many places when laying reinforcement and pouring concrete. If you want really good waterproofing, use membranes.

Waterproofing strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10-15 cm. The joints are taped with double-sided tape. The edges are placed on the walls of the pit.

Reinforcement

Reinforcing the bottom slab is a lengthy process

The next step is reinforcing the bottom slab. The recommended thickness of the concrete base is 200 mm.

Ribbed reinforcement is used. The thickness of the rods depends on the type of soil and depth, but you should not use a diameter of less than 12 mm. The reinforcement pitch is 20*20 mm or 30*30 mm. One or two belts - depends on the type of soil. If the soils are heaving, two belts will be needed - they will definitely be able to withstand the forces of heaving. If movements are unlikely and the depth of the pool is shallow, one is enough.

The reinforcement must be recessed at least 5 cm into the concrete, so the rods need to be laid on the halves of the bricks - they will give the required 5 cm. On top of the rods there must also be a layer of concrete at least 5 cm thick. This will be useful if you have to knit a double reinforcing belt . Then it turns out that the distance from one layer of reinforcement to another will be 100 mm.

To ensure a gap of 5 cm, halves of bricks are laid under the reinforcement

In general, this process is very similar to creating slab foundation. Read the article about how and what to do.

Concreting the bottom

Pouring the slab with concrete. Concrete of at least M400 is used for the solution. Previously, pure cement-sand mortar was used, but today technology requires the introduction of additional additives to impart water-repellent properties. The amount of cement and sand does not change, but much less water will be needed - it will already be a semi-dry concrete solution. Its advantage is that the aging time of the solution is significantly reduced - to one or two weeks instead of the required 28 days.

The water-repellent solution can be ordered from the company and it will be delivered to you by car, or you can make it yourself in a concrete mixer, but you will have to work with at least two people: you should not allow the edges of the previously laid piece to “seize.” Everything must be done quickly: while one portion is being leveled and compacted, another is already being prepared.

After filling, wait the required time - from 4 to 10 days - depending on the selected additive. After the concrete has gained strength, the construction of walls can begin.

Pouring concrete on the bottom slab

Construction of pool walls made of bricks

Most often, the walls are made of one brick. But this is a very thin wall that can withstand the load of a very small mass of water.

Please note that only red ceramic bricks are used for the construction of swimming pools. Preferably full-bodied. The use of silicate is excluded - it is only suitable for dry buildings.

A swimming pool with a one-brick wall can be built inside a bathhouse. In this case, the load from heaving is supported by the foundation, and the mass of water will not be large - you will not accelerate much in the room.

On the street, the size of the pools is many times larger, and the walls should be two, at least one and a half bricks thick. Moreover, each row should be reinforced with two rods or a metal mesh made of 4-5 mm wire with a pitch of 10-15 cm.

For a medium-sized pool, it is better to make the wall at least one and a half bricks long

When laying, it is recommended to use a solution with a plasticizer or the addition of liquid glass. Make the outer seam as usual, flush with the brick, and the inner seam half-empty - so that during finishing the adhesion of the plaster mortar to the surface is better.

Do not forget to build pipes into the walls to install water discharge nozzles. An exception is overflow-type pools, in which the skimmers are hung on the side.

Each row - or every two or three - is reinforced with mesh

Plastering and interior finishing

These works are carried out as usual, only the composition must be waterproof, or better yet, water-repellent. You can add it, just like in masonry mortar. liquid glass.

Prime the dried surface with a deep penetration compound, preferably having antibacterial properties. The second option is to coat the primer with an antiseptic. Cover the prepared walls with a painting net, and then plaster the surfaces.

Before finishing, it is necessary to install embedded parts - bottom drain, wall nozzles.

After plastering, you can either lay tiles/mosaics. It also needs to be placed on water-repellent glue. You can paint the walls and bottom with rubber paint. It will immediately become waterproofing - it creates a thin and elastic film on the surface that does not allow water to pass through.

There is one finishing option without plastering and other work - a special PVC film reinforced with fiberglass. True, if it is sold, it is only in soldered form, and the shapes are usually circle or oval. It is not soldered separately. If you decide to use it, you will have to adjust all the dimensions to fit the existing dimensions.

Instead of tiles, sealants and other finishes, you can use a special PVC film. Just don’t use sand-lime brick for building swimming pools - it breaks down in water. In order for such a pool to exist for at least a few years, there is only one way - film

External waterproofing and insulation

Waterproofing is carried out in exactly the same way as in cases with foundations. The most convenient way is coating. Apply it and let it dry. Can be melted roll waterproofing. You just need it to be of good quality, and that’s not very cheap.

If the soils are heaving, it is advisable to play it safe and put a reinforcing metal mesh on the walls before waterproofing. It is advisable to also plaster it and also with a hydrophobic composition. And only then start applying waterproofing.

The outside of the brick bowl must also be waterproofed

After completing the waterproofing work, it is advisable to insulate the brick pool bowl that you made with your own hands. This will significantly reduce the cost of heating water. And the expected costs will be considerable - to heat 10-15 tons of water by one degree you need a lot of electricity. And since the pool is deep, it will be weakly warmed by the sun. And if you don’t fence it off from the ground yet, you’ll be warming it for a long time.

It is better to use foam polystyrene boards for thermal insulation. This material has excellent thermal insulation characteristics; moreover, it does not conduct or absorb water, so it will additionally protect the bowl from leaking. Another plus is that it does not bloom, fungi and microorganisms do not develop in it, and insects and animals do not eat it. In general - an excellent option. But it must be taken with a high density - at least 35 kg/m2. So it will also compensate for the movement of the soil during heaving.

Lay polystyrene foam in two layers, overlapping the seams of the bottom with the top slabs. Seal the seams with water-repellent mastic or glue them with reinforced tape (this is the worst option).

Afterwards, all that remains is to backfill: fill the gap between the wall of the pit and the bowl with soil or sand and gravel. The soil is suitable if winter heaving is insignificant. If the heaving is severe, it is better to cover everything with gravel and compact it. This layer will serve to compensate for the loads that occur during freezing.

Another waterproofing option

This is such a difficult process - building a brick pool with your own hands. But this is the most difficult option. There are some easier ones. You can’t call them purely “brick-and-mortar”, but the work is much less and the reliability is higher.

Small in-ground brick pool in the bathhouse

The order of work will not differ, there are only some peculiarities:

You can make a brick pool in a bathhouse with your own hands. And it won’t be so difficult: the dimensions are more modest, which means the pressure is not so great. Moreover, most of the heaving loads will be borne by the foundation, which also increases the viability of the idea. But the best solution would still be to use a plastic liner: it guarantees 100% waterproofing.

Plastic liner lined with brick

Here the situation is simple. Buy a plastic liner for the pool. They are inexpensive and come in different sizes and shapes.

Even when purchasing, consider how the water will be drained - from below, through the bottom drain, from the sides, through nozzles, or over the edge - with a skimmer. Lay pipes according to the type of water drainage when preparing the foundation for the pool.

Installation on the ground

After you have brought the bowl to the site, prepare a flat area for it. It will be necessary to remove the fertile layer of soil with vegetation and make bedding according to all the rules - as described above.

A plastic liner lined with brick is an excellent option for a swimming pool, bathhouse and more

When draining water from the pool at the bottom, it is advisable to make a pit where the pipe should be led out. Equipment can also be located here - pump, filter, etc. With a screamer and a side drain, the pump will in any case be below the water level, so everything is organized more simply here.

Sometimes the liner is placed directly on the sand, sometimes a podium is laid out from the same brick, and the bowl is placed on it. It all depends on the type of soil. If they are not heaving, then you can put them on sand, but on clay and loam soils you will have to make at least some kind of foundation.

If you want, you can lay polystyrene foam under the brick (or on it) - there is no such thing as excess thermal insulation. You can also cover the sides of the bowl with this material, and only then cover it with brick. Large thickness is not needed - 3-5 cm is enough.

Another option for a brick-plastic pool

The waterproofing and rigidity of the walls is ensured by the liner, so there are no special requirements for the masonry and its finishing. Do as you please.

Recessed installation

The liner can be partially buried in the ground. With this option, only the depth of the pit changes. After installing the bowl (with or without thermal insulation - decide for yourself), you will need to fill the gap between the wall of the pool and the pit. This can be previously removed soil, gravel or sand. Gravel and sand are an option for heaving soil, excavated soil is for normal soil. You compact the backfill and begin to cover the protruding part with bricks. Actually, that's all - finishing work remains.

Pool made of blocks

If we are talking about wall building blocks, then to build a full-fledged pool it is necessary to choose a high-density material that is not afraid of water and can withstand pressure well. The very technology of building a pool buried in the ground from blocks with your own hands is no different from building a brick one.

The only thing that definitely should not be used for the construction of bowls is expanded clay concrete or any others containing expanded clay. Their density and strength are not enough to hold the mass of water. If they can be used, then instead of polystyrene foam as external thermal insulation.

Using the same technology, you can make a pool from building blocks. Only their density should be high. Water-repellent characteristics are also important

Made from polystyrene foam blocks

Some companies offer expanded polystyrene blocks with through holes for installing reinforcement and pouring concrete. This is a good option for a pool - the strength of the bowl increases, while the walls have sufficient heat and water insulation.

The preparation of the base will be similar. After the concrete bottom of the bowl has matured, the construction of walls begins. One block has a height of 25 cm, connected to each other with locks. After assembly, reinforcement bars are inserted into the holes, after which concrete is poured. The walls should stand for 2 weeks. After this period, backfilling begins and finishing work is completed.

The disadvantage of this option is the relatively high price of polystyrene blocks, but building a pool from them with your own hands is easier than from others.

From the fundamental

If we are talking about concrete foundation blocks of the FBS type, then they can be used to make a pool even larger than from brick. But you just can’t use silicate concrete and expanded clay concrete. Only heavy ones. After all, these blocks are reinforced and have high strength. During construction, the whole problem will be in their correct and high-quality connection. You will need to reinforce the seams between the blocks with reinforcement bars.

The blocks are installed in the same way as bricks - with bandaging, shifting the seams of the rows. For installation you will need to rent a crane. As a last resort, a winch will do. What types of concrete blocks are there and how to work with them, read the article “Blocks for the foundation: reinforced concrete, expanded clay concrete”

Construction of a pool from concrete blocks

Above ground round pool made of blocks

If we are talking about an above-ground pool made of blocks, then the best option would still be with a plastic liner. Even if it is more expensive, it is more reliable: both rigidity and waterproofing are guaranteed and you know for sure that the bowl will not fall apart.

If you are going to do it without plastic, then it is better to make a round pool - there is less chance of it falling apart. In this case, the order of work is as follows:

When laying and plastering, use the mortar with moisture-resistant additives. When finishing with tiles or other similar materials, the adhesive must also have water-repellent properties. There are no other secrets to building a pool from blocks with your own hands. Try to make the structure as strong as possible and provide waterproofing.

Pool-pond option with interesting system Watch the video for cleaning and supplying water. The walls of the pool were built from polystyrene blocks.

A country house is a great place for rest and relaxation, family and friendly meetings. An outdoor pool will perfectly complement the design of any summer cottage. Big or small, it will make guests comfortable on a hot summer evening. Making a concrete pool with your own hands is not an easy task, however, if you have a great desire and patience, it is quite doable.

A country house is a great place to relax and unwind

DIY concrete pool construction

This article will help you understand the question: “How to make a pool with your own hands from concrete?” Before starting construction, calculate all the little details and nuances in advance. Construction will take some time, but will help avoid further mistakes. Concrete pools have the following advantages:

long service life;
installed both indoors and outdoors;
can have any shape and configuration;
Various finishing options are possible.

Despite the fact that a concrete pool is a costly and complex type of work, it is highly durable and reliable.

DIY concrete pool construction

Construction technologies

To correctly complete the process of building a concrete pool, it is necessary to understand the order and importance of each stage. The technology for constructing a concrete pool includes:

pool design;
preparation of the base;
installation of equipment and embedded elements;
pouring the bottom and walls with concrete;
plastering;
waterproofing and thermal insulation;
backfill.

All stages of the technology for constructing a concrete pool are important; the correct execution of them will affect the final result of the work.

Preparing the pool base

Preparatory stage

Create your own estimate for the construction of a country pool. Before calculations you need to determine:

Pool size. Based on the budget and the number of people who will swim in it.
Depth and its shape. If you have no experience in construction, it is better to choose a regular rectangular shape. Convenient bowl depth – from 1.5 meters.
The thickness of the structure. The deeper the pool, the more reliable its base should be; the thickness should not be less than 15 cm.
Geology of the site. It is better to order a geodetic survey land plot, which will determine the density of the soil and the groundwater level, and will help you choose the best location for installation.
Pool equipment. Proper selection of equipment and embedded elements will allow you to use the pool comfortably and reliably.
The proximity of the pool to other buildings. Neighboring foundations will put a load on the foundation pit, so all buildings must be completely autonomous.
Materials. Construction must be carried out with high-quality and proven materials.

The preparatory stage in the construction of a concrete pool is very important; the accuracy of subsequent processes and the overall result of the work depend on it.

Need to buy swimming pool equipment

Excavation

After all the initial work, we begin digging a pit for the concrete pool bowl. We draw out the width and length of the pit on the ground, mark the required distances with electrodes or rods using a rope. It is also necessary to leave additional depth for drainage and reinforcement, taking into account that you will need space for formwork spacers. The depth of the pit should exceed the pool bowl by 50-70 cm in width, depth and length. After determining the location of the drainage and filling paths, we begin to dig a pit.

An excavator will dig a pit faster, but this method requires extra costs. If the future pool is small, you can dig the pit yourself. During the work, we take into account the digging angle, and to prevent the soil from shedding, we make the walls of the pit with small slopes. On one side of the pit we make a special recess for the necessary equipment and pipe outlet.

Backfill under the bottom slab

After digging the pit, we proceed to the following stages of work:

We lay out the equipment. We dig trenches for bottom water drainage pipes. In the left recess we place the necessary equipment (filter, heater, etc.). We arrange the pipes and connect the drain to the sewer. We lay the drain pipes at a slight angle to the equipment pit for easy drainage of water.

We install equipment for the pool

We lay geotextiles. We compact the earth well with a slight slope towards the drains. We install geotextiles with a slight overlap to avoid gaps in the ground. This creates a protective layer between the soil and the drainage pad and prevents water erosion.
We create reliable drainage. Crushed stone and river sand were used as drainage materials. We fill the bottom of the pit with crushed stone and river sand with a fraction of up to 8 cm. The average layer of crushed stone and sand is 15-20 cm.
We are setting up roofing felt. For reliability, we arrange the rolls in two layers with an overlap. Roofing felt rolls are a high-quality and affordable method of waterproofing.

It is very important to take care of high-quality strengthening of the concrete bowl of the pool, since after completion of the work the bottom of the pool will experience enormous pressure from the water.

Reinforcement of the bottom plate

Before pouring the structure with concrete, we perform reinforcement work on the bottom of the pool. We use reinforcement measuring 8-12 cm. We treat it with a special anti-corrosion agent twice. We lay the rods horizontally and vertically to obtain reinforcement in the form of a 20*20 cm cage. We make two levels of reinforced mesh, and tie the intersections of the frame with special wire or plastic clips.

Reinforcement of the bottom plate

The frame rods cannot be connected with a welding machine, as they will be subject to rapid corrosion. We install the necessary embedded elements at the bottom of the pit and secure them with wire; if necessary, protect them with formwork. In order for the concrete pool bowl to be strong and reinforced, it is important to place the frame on special supports or bricks, so that the reinforcement will be inside the concrete screed. We bend the rods upward along the perimeter of the bottom (later we will secure them with the reinforcement rods of the pool walls).

Self-prepared concrete will cost less, but then you need to have several assistants for the work, so that one person prepares the concrete, another pours the solution, and a third levels it. Formwork for the bottom of the pool will help to carry out the pouring process more smoothly and accurately. To prepare concrete you will need:

concrete mixer;
vibration installation;
cement M500;
sand;
water-repellent additives;
water.

We need M500 cement

The quality of concrete greatly depends on the purity of its components. To preserve all the properties of the substance, we buy bags of cement no earlier than a month before pouring. We use crushed stone of a fraction from 10 to 20 mm; it should not contain foreign impurities. The preferred sand granule size should be up to 2mm. On average, a bucket of M500 cement will require 5 buckets of sand and 7 buckets of crushed stone. For good mixing of materials, it is better to use a concrete mixer. To get a high-quality solution, add the components in the following order:

Mix sand and cement.
Add water and stir until it reaches the consistency of sour cream.
Add crushed stone.
Before pouring, add a hydraulic additive to the solution.

Fill the solution with a slight slope towards draining the water. The minimum thickness of the pool bottom is 15 cm. The larger its size, the thicker the bowl is needed. During the pouring process, you should focus on the maximum density of concrete and the absence of air voids in its thickness. For this we use a vibration machine. The reinforcement must be inside the concrete solution. Leave the filled bottom to dry completely for 10-12 days.

Pouring the bottom of the pool with concrete

At the joints of the bottom and walls of the pool bowl, we lay a water-expanding cord to waterproof the seams. Such a cord will close any possible gaps and will not allow water to pass through. Vertical formwork will help build the walls of a concrete pool. The correct shape and durability of the pool bowl depends on its quality. You can use formwork made of wood, metal, plywood or corrugated board. The main thing is to ensure maximum strength of the formwork.

We place reinforcement in the center of the formwork and connect it with specially left vertical rods when filling the bottom of the bowl. We allocate space in the wall for embedded elements (skimmers, nozzles). It is important to take into account the water purification system in advance, since its absence will cause considerable discomfort. A skimmer filtration system for water purification is more accessible and cheaper than an overflow one.

To reduce the number of voids when pouring a wall, we use a reinforcement rod to simulate vibration. The thickness of the wall is at least 20 cm. After the concrete hardens, we remove the support elements. Since we receive a bowl with unevenness and roughness, we begin the plastering process.

Construction of pool walls

Plastering

To ensure reliable adhesion of the plaster to the concrete, before plastering the walls we prepare them:

Manually make the surface of the bowl more rough.
Using dowels, we attach the mesh to the pool bowl.
Before fixing, we treat the mesh with a special anti-corrosion agent.

After fixing the mesh, apply moisture-resistant plaster to it, level the pool bowl as much as possible and leave it to dry completely. After drying, we install the embedded parts of the pool.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing a pool is an important stage that should protect the structure from moisture as much as possible. Liquid products based on latex and silicone will be effective and reliable. We apply them to the plastered surface with a regular brush or roller, filling all the pores and cracks as much as possible, applying in two layers.

After a strong film has formed, we check the pool for leaks. Fill it with water, note the liquid level and leave to sit for 10-15 days.

Waterproofing a pool is an important step

Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation is used to better retain heat and save energy when heating. It is produced by a spraying process and often hired specialists are called in. The modern market provides kits for self-insulation by spraying polyurethane foam. However, such disposable kits are expensive and not available to everyone.

Thermal insulation of the pool can be done using polystyrene foam sheets. They are laid in a double layer with a total thickness of 5-8 cm so as to cover the seams of the first layer. At the end, water-repellent mastic is applied.

Backfilling is carried out manually and evenly so that the bowl does not move or tilt. We install insulation sheets at a distance of 25 cm from the outer edge of the pool. We fill the space between it and the bowl with a mixture of sand and cement (for 1 bucket of cement we use 3 buckets of sand). We slightly moisten the cement-sand mixture with water. We fill the distance between the insulation and the foundation pit with sand, this will improve the tightness and density of the backfill. Backfilling is carried out in several stages over 3-5 days for better sand shrinkage.

Pool backfill

Conclusion

Construction of concrete pools is a painstaking and complex task. Each stage of construction does not like to be rushed and requires high responsibility. For the longevity of the pool, it is important to buy high-quality materials and think through all the little details and nuances in advance. Using the described pool construction technology, we obtain a high-quality and durable concrete pool.

What types of building blocks are there?

Reinforced concrete blocks. Durable blocks will withstand any load and effectively protect against noise.
Expanded clay concrete blocks. They have high strength and good thermal insulation characteristics.
Cinder blocks. The budget type of blocks, however, requires additional insulation and cladding. They will have low sound insulation and environmental friendliness.
Foam concrete blocks. Fragile and short-lived. Have high fire safety and sound insulation.
Gas silicate blocks. Lightweight, not subject to fire, but fragile and subject to significant shrinkage.
Arbolite blocks. Fire-resistant and economical material, retains heat well, but requires waterproofing, nondescript in appearance.

Reinforced concrete blocks

How to start building a house on a plot?

Buy a plot. Pay attention to its location, size, proximity to communications.
Order a geological survey of the site. It is important to hire experienced professionals to conduct soil and water laboratory tests. They will establish the groundwater level so that they can begin building the house in the safest location.
Prepare a project. Order experienced specialists to create a high-quality project that will take into account all the nuances.
Purchase the necessary materials. When choosing materials, rely on their quality, manufacturability and cost-effectiveness.
Order a team of builders who will be competent in the issues and conscientious in completing the assigned tasks.

How to build a bathhouse from foam blocks?

Build the bathhouse on solid soil.
Calculate the number of foam blocks in advance to avoid leftover material at the end.
Before pouring concrete, fill the foundation with crushed stone, expanded clay and lay down reinforcing mesh.
After pouring the concrete, waterproof it.

Bathhouse made of foam blocks

Fasten the first row of blocks using a mixture of cement and sand.
For better strength, arrange the mesh every 2-3 rows of blocks.

When constructing houses from expanded clay concrete blocks, consider:

Without long-term external finishing, the blocks begin to collapse.
Pay enough attention to external waterproofing of walls, as such blocks absorb moisture well.
The blocks require additional insulation.
They are not suitable for foundations due to their increased ability to absorb moisture.

Building a foundation using TISE technology is the most budget-friendly and affordable option for building a foundation with your own hands.

This foundation laying involves the combination of two technologies - columnar and strip. To implement this technology, a special drill has been developed, which allows drilling piles with a lower expansion at a budget cost. Such piles have better load-bearing capacity, and the grillage allows you to evenly distribute the load and not experience it during heaving of the earth.
TISE technology allows you to independently make high-quality and reliable foundation for any building at an affordable price.

When you decide to build a pool with your own hands, most often the design and technology for its creation are simple. Hollow concrete blocks make it possible to cope with the task independently, without involving workers with special knowledge.

But it’s not just a matter of simplicity of construction. The main advantage of this design is that the hollow concrete blocks are filled with thermal insulation material, which allows the water to remain warm for a long time.

Where and how to place the pool

If your suburban area is large and there are not many buildings on it, it is best to place the pool on the sunny side. It is also necessary to ensure that the pool is protected from wind, debris and the prying eyes of neighbors. It is not necessary to erect capital barriers - in this case, a small gazebo or gazebo can act as protection. If growing a hedge seems like a long process to you, take advantage of it while the real one grows. We also take into account the need for a comfortable and spacious area for placing sun loungers or simply for approaching the pool.

Making a pool with your own hands: step by step

For a small pool, choose a depth of about 150 cm. In this case, the sufficient depth of the pit to be dug should be approximately 170 cm.

We make the dimensions of the pit itself with a margin on all sides to make it more convenient to lay out the walls of the bowl in blocks.

A concrete slab 15-20 cm thick with steel reinforcement is used as the bottom of the pool. You can take a ready-made slab, but you will need equipment to lay it. Options:

laying the bottom of the pool bowl from several concrete slabs is not big size, and seal the seams hermetically;
pour the monolithic slab in place. It’s not that difficult, besides, it’s cheaper than using ready-made slabs, and you don’t have to worry about the tightness of the bowl. , described in great detail, see the link.

Concrete hollow blocks are laid on a concrete base in 5 rows. The masonry is simple, with obligatory bandaging. This means that we lay the blocks in a checkerboard pattern, making sure that the seams of the next row fall in the middle of the blocks of the previous one. Everything is exactly the same as in brickwork.

Metal vertical reinforcement securely holds the blocks, so when filling the voids with concrete (mortar), they do not move. The clarification is very important: it is better not to weld the reinforcing bars, but to tie them with wire, since the welding points will be primarily damaged by corrosion.

Another special feature of the pool design is that the steel reinforcement built into the bottom extends into the walls, increasing their strength.

To descend into the pool, you can use a ready-made staircase (factory production). If you are not sure that you will make the steps correctly, it is better to purchase a ladder. In addition, purchased structures have not only rectangular steps, but also rounded steps - this is especially convenient for a swimming pool.

We begin the installation of the stairs when the concrete of the bowl has completely hardened.
We fix the ladder rigidly.

When the concrete is completely dry (12-28 days), we cover the inside of the bowl (bottom, walls) - this is the simplest option. But other sealed finishes are also possible.

Along the edges of the pool (“shores”), the film is welded to the film on the walls. A hole is drilled at the bottom through which water will drain. Film joints are welded with a special apparatus for welding film and plastic.

We pour water into the bowl - we managed to make a pool with our own hands.

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Where and how to place the pool

If your suburban area is large and there are not many buildings on it, it is best to place the pool on the sunny side. It is also necessary to ensure that the pool is protected from wind, debris and the prying eyes of neighbors. It is not necessary to erect capital barriers; in this case, a small decorative fence or gazebo can serve as protection. If growing a hedge seems like a long process to you, use an artificial decorative hedge while the real one grows. We also take into account the need for a comfortable and spacious area for placing sun loungers or simply for approaching the pool.

Making a pool with your own hands: step by step

For a small pool, choose a depth of about 150 cm. In this case, the sufficient depth of the pit to be dug should be approximately 170 cm.

We make the dimensions of the pit itself with a margin on all sides to make it more convenient to lay out the walls of the bowl in blocks.

A concrete slab 15-20 cm thick with steel reinforcement is used as the bottom of the pool. You can take a ready-made slab, but you will need equipment to lay it. Options:

lay the bottom of the pool bowl from several small concrete slabs, and seal the seams hermetically;
pour the monolithic slab in place. It’s not that difficult, besides, it’s cheaper than using ready-made slabs, and you don’t have to worry about the tightness of the bowl. How to pour a monolithic slab is described in great detail, see the link.

Another special feature of the pool design is that the steel reinforcement built into the bottom extends into the walls, increasing their strength.

We begin the installation of the stairs when the concrete of the bowl has completely hardened. We fix the ladder rigidly.

When the concrete is completely dry (12-28 days), cover the inside of the bowl (bottom, walls) with sealed PVC film - this is the simplest option. But other sealed finishes are also possible.

We pour water into the bowl - we managed to make a pool with our own hands.

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Brick and block pool: do-it-yourself construction options

Brick pool construction technology

You can build a brick bowl with your own hands, but it will be a difficult task. There are several reasons for this:

Methods for organizing water drainage

In general, when making a brick pool, the work order will consist of the following steps.

Pit preparation

Dimensions are marked using pegs and twine.

First, the fertile layer is removed, then a pit is dug to a depth of at least 40-50 cm deeper than planned: there will also be bedding, a bottom slab and finishing materials.

Preparing the base for the bottom slab

Mark and lay the pipe under the drain. It should go at a slight slope towards the pit. The embedded parts themselves (grid and shutter) will be installed much later - after plastering.

It is better to make the dimensions of the bottom plate 40 cm larger than the planned dimensions of the bowl. This will better compensate for soil heaving.

First of all, we prepare the foundation pit

On the selected area (mark it with pegs and strings), level the bottom, making a slight slope towards the drain. Compact the remaining soil, leveling the bottom.

The next step is to fill in the bedding and compact it. First it is crushed stone of medium and fine fraction. The layer is about 20 cm. If the groundwater level is high, drainage pipes are laid in the gravel along the edges of the platform, which are discharged into a drainage pit or into a system (depending on how your groundwater drainage system is organized). The gravel is compacted carefully using a vibropress. Then there is a 10 cm layer of coarse sand. It is also compacted, to make it easier - it is spilled with water.

A bedding of crushed stone and sand is poured onto the leveled bottom.

Waterproofing strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10-15 cm. The joints are taped with double-sided tape. The edges are placed on the walls of the pit.

Reinforcement

Reinforcing the bottom slab is a lengthy process

The next step is reinforcing the bottom slab. The recommended thickness of the concrete base is 200 mm.

To ensure a gap of 5 cm, halves of bricks are laid under the reinforcement

In general, this process is very similar to creating a slab foundation. Read the article about how and what to do.

Concreting the bottom

After filling, wait the required time - from 4 to 10 days - depending on the selected additive. After the concrete has gained strength, the construction of walls can begin.

Pouring concrete on the bottom slab

Construction of pool walls made of bricks

Most often, the walls are made of one brick. But this is a very thin wall that can withstand the load of a very small mass of water.

Please note that only red ceramic bricks are used for the construction of swimming pools. Preferably full-bodied. The use of silicate is excluded - it is only suitable for dry buildings.

For a medium-sized pool, it is better to make the wall at least one and a half bricks long

Do not forget to build pipes into the walls to install water discharge nozzles. An exception is overflow-type pools, in which the skimmers are hung on the side.

Each row - or every two or three - is reinforced with mesh

Plastering and interior finishing

These works are carried out as usual, only the composition must be waterproof, or better yet, water-repellent. You can add liquid glass, just like in masonry mortar.

Before finishing, it is necessary to install embedded parts - bottom drain, wall nozzles.

Instead of tiles, sealants and other finishing, you can use a special PVC film. Just don’t use sand-lime brick for building swimming pools - it breaks down in water. In order for such a pool to exist for at least a few years, there is only one way - film

External waterproofing and insulation

Waterproofing is carried out in exactly the same way as in cases with foundations. The most convenient way is coating. Apply it and let it dry. You can fuse roll waterproofing. You just need it to be of good quality, and that’s not very cheap.

The outside of the brick bowl must also be waterproofed

Lay polystyrene foam in two layers, overlapping the seams of the bottom with the top slabs. Seal the seams with water-repellent mastic or glue them with reinforced tape (this is the worst option).

Another waterproofing option

Small in-ground brick pool in the bathhouse

The order of work will not differ, there are only some peculiarities:

Plastic liner lined with brick

Here the situation is simple. Buy a plastic liner for the pool. They are inexpensive and come in different sizes and shapes.

Installation on the ground

A plastic liner lined with brick is an excellent option for a swimming pool, bathhouse and more

Another option for a brick-plastic pool

The waterproofing and rigidity of the walls is ensured by the liner, so there are no special requirements for the masonry and its finishing. Do as you please.

Recessed installation

Pool made of blocks

Using the same technology, you can make a pool from building blocks. Only their density should be high. Water-repellent characteristics are also important

Made from polystyrene foam blocks

The disadvantage of this option is the relatively high price of polystyrene blocks, but building a pool from them with your own hands is easier than from others.

From the fundamental

Construction of a pool from concrete blocks

Above ground round pool made of blocks

If you are going to do it without plastic, then it is better to make a round pool - there is less chance of it falling apart. In this case, the order of work is as follows:

For a version of a pool-pond with an interesting system for cleaning and supplying water, see the video. The walls of the pool were built from polystyrene blocks.

baniwood.ru

How to build a pool from blocks?

Arranging your own swimming pool on a personal plot requires a clear understanding of how this process should be carried out. It requires appropriate knowledge and skills that will allow construction to be of the highest quality. As a result, the erected architectural object will become best place for summer holidays for the whole family for a long time.

Briefly about construction

The process of building pools from blocks is not as simple as some people think. This is due to the following features of this work:

It is very important to properly ensure that the pool bowl cannot come into contact with groundwater. Their constant exposure can negatively affect the condition of the material. In addition, in some cases they may contain unfavorable substances.
The pool bowl must also be well sealed from the inside. Water may not have a very good effect on the condition of the blocks.
The masonry must withstand a significant volume of water. It is worth understanding that 1 cubic meter is one ton. The average pool holds about 15 cubic meters of liquid.

Thus, building a pool from blocks with your own hands is not a very simple task. Despite this, the result is worth some hard work.

Step-by-step instructions for building a pool from blocks with your own hands

Since the pool is a rather complex engineering hydraulic structure, it is very important to construct it correctly.

Constructing a pool from concrete blocks with your own hands should be carried out according to clear step-by-step instructions. Only in this case will the end result be a high-quality object that will withstand all existing operating conditions for a long time without problems.

Design

First of all, before you start building a pool, you should develop an appropriate plan. It will allow you to theoretically evaluate the possibility of constructing a given architectural object, as well as preliminary calculate the estimate for this process. If you don’t have at least an approximate diagram, you shouldn’t start taking any action to implement the idea.

The following details should be considered:

As soon as all of the above nuances are thought out in the plan, you can immediately begin to carry out the work.

Pit preparation

Before starting work on digging a pit, it is worth clearing the area of any existing vegetation. First of all, this applies to a variety of shrubs and trees, if available.

Preparing a pit manually with the help of human resources and appropriate equipment in the form of a shovel is advisable only in cases where the pool is quite small.

If the thicket of such a structure is large enough, it is best to resort to the help of an excavator. Renting this equipment often costs as much as hiring a team of workers. That is why there will be no additional expenses in this case.

It is worth noting that the dimensions of the pit should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the pool bowl. This is due to the fact that various equipment, formwork and cushions must be placed in the additional space.

Preparing the base

It is worth constructing a cushion under the pool because in this case concreting will be much easier. In addition, such a base allows you to extend the life of the object. The backfill under the pool bowl should be made of sand and crushed stone. This mixture must be spread evenly along the bottom of the pit and compacted thoroughly. Its height should be between 25 and 35 centimeters.

To waterproof the bottom, you can use polyvinyl chloride (PVC), bitumen or roofing felt. These materials are lined in one or several layers. Be sure to lay them with an overlap of at least 15 centimeters. The edges of the materials need to be placed on the walls of the pit.

Installation on the ground

Hydraulic structures should be laid during the preparation of the pit. In order for the drainage of water to be optimal, a slope should be made at a level of 4 to 8 percent, that is, about 2-4 centimeters per meter of bottom. It should be directed in the direction in which the drain will be installed.

The drainage hole must be below the water level. In this case, all the water, if necessary, can completely leave the pool bowl.

Concreting the bottom and installing a base on it

To prepare the solution for concreting the day, cement is used, the grade of which is not lower than M400. A pure sand-cement mixture should not be used, since certain additives and additional water-repellent substances must be added to it, which will allow the material to withstand aggressive and quite difficult operating conditions in the future.

When preparing the solution, it is necessary to use less water than usual. The result is a semi-dry mixture. Its main advantage is that the ripening period is significantly reduced. Often it is only 7-10 days instead of 28 days.

Water-repellent concrete can be made either using a concrete mixer at home or ordered from the appropriate enterprise. But in the first case, the work must be carried out together, since in no case should premature setting of the components be allowed.

Depending on the additive, after filling you need to wait from 4 to 10 days. As soon as the concrete reaches the required characteristics, the construction of walls can begin.

Reinforcement

Reinforcing the bottom of the pool is a mandatory step. In this case, the height of the concrete layer should be about 20 centimeters.

In the reinforcement process, ribbed reinforcement is used. Its cross-section should directly depend on the operating conditions of the pool. But the diameter should not be less than 12 millimeters. The spacing of the twigs should be 20x20 or 30x30 centimeters. It can be equipped with one or two belts. The second option is often chosen in the presence of soil heaving forces.

Walling

In most cases, walls are built in one row of blocks. Due to the fact that these products are quite massive, they can easily withstand the mass of water that will be in the pool.

The first two layers of blocks must be laid on ordinary concrete mortar with water-repellent properties. As for the third row, it is best to reinforce it. This sequence must be continued until the construction of the wall is completed.

The reinforcement can allow the blocks to gain greater rigidity and resistance to the mass of water in the pool. That is why other methods for constructing walls of hydraulic structures of this type do not exist.

Interior decoration

You should not assume that interior finishing of a swimming pool is a fairly simple task that anyone can handle. In fact, it must be carried out in accordance with certain rules and recommendations.

First, the surface of the blocks must be impregnated with an appropriate primer. It is best to choose a deeply penetrating composition that has antibacterial properties. You can also apply an antiseptic on top of this material.

After the preparatory work has been done, it is worth putting an appropriate construction mesh on the block wall. After this, you can begin the plastering process.

If the embedded parts are installed after the walls are covered with mortar, then a special cord should be laid around the perimeter of the products. In this case, all joints must be sealed with sealant.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the pool should be done in the same way as this work is carried out in relation to the foundations. The easiest way is to use a coating material. There is enough of it external wall apply the structure, after which you just need to wait for it to dry.

Film waterproofing material can also be used, but in this case you should choose the highest quality and most expensive products. This is due to the fact that the operating conditions of the pool are quite difficult.

In cases where the soils are quite heaving, it is necessary to fill the walls with a metal section before waterproofing work. The top can be plastered with a small layer of mortar.

Insulation

In order to reduce the financial costs of heating water in the pool, it needs to be insulated after waterproofing work has been carried out. It is important to understand that heating several tons of water by 1 degree will require quite a lot of electricity. Due to the fact that this structure is buried in the ground, the sun will have minimal influence on it.

For thermal insulation, builders recommend using foamed polystyrene. It performs its main function well and does not absorb water. In addition, various microorganisms do not multiply in such material. Polystyrene is not eaten by insects, so it cannot be damaged in this way.

It is worth noting that it is best to choose high-density thermal insulation material. This figure must exceed 35 kilograms per square meter.

Other Important Details

The recess around the perimeter of the pool can be filled in various ways. For this purpose, soil dug during the construction of the pit is often used. But in cases where the soil is quite heaving, crushed stone can be used. It needs to be poured into the hole and compacted quite firmly.

On top of the perimeter of the pool, you can fill it over crushed stone, on top of which you should lay a tiled covering. It is best to use a material with a matte surface. This will increase the level of safety near this hydraulic facility.

Types of blocks

Today, various types of blocks are used to build a swimming pool. First of all, this applies to the following types of material:

Concrete blocks.
Aerated concrete blocks.
Cinder blocks (read about cinder block pools below)
Expanded clay blocks.

The choice of material for the construction of walls should directly depend on operating conditions, climatic factors, as well as the availability of appropriate financial resources.

Table of advantages and disadvantages of materials for the construction of swimming pools

Each type of block used in the construction of swimming pools has its own advantages and disadvantages. That is why, before choosing this or that material, it is worth carefully analyzing these factors in order to understand how best to build the structure.

Block types	Advantages	Flaws
Concrete blocks	High strength, fast construction speed, simplicity, versatility, resistance to low temperatures, ease of installation.	The need to waterproof seams, high cost, impossibility (or limited) use on heaving soils.
Aerated concrete blocks	Light weight, ideal geometry, fairly simple installation process.	Low frost resistance and high water absorption, the possibility of fungus spreading in the pores, the presence of shrinkage.
Cinder blocks	Relatively light weight and not very significant cost.	Low environmental friendliness, presence of blast furnace slag, low frost resistance, high level water absorption.
Expanded clay blocks	The highest strength, high frost resistance, low water absorption, low cost, no shrinkage.	Relatively heavy weight and not very good geometry, making it difficult to build a flat wall.

Before choosing one or another type of blocks, it is imperative to evaluate its positive and negative qualities. This will help build a better and more reliable pool that will last for quite a long period of time.

Decoration

Once plastering has been completed, you can begin installing the selected tile covering. It can be either ordinary tile or mosaic. Today, a large number of different options for making these products are sold, as a result of which everyone can create their own unique and original style.

Instead of tiles and sealants, a special PVC film is sometimes used. It is a glass fiber reinforced material. Due to the fact that it is sold only in finished form, such a product does not always fit the configuration of the pool.

The pool should be built away from trees. This is due to the fact that their roots can damage external waterproofing and insulation. In addition, in this case there will be no need to constantly remove leaves from the water.
The simplest and most convenient shape for a pool is square. Rectangular or with rounded corners.
Marking the area for the pool should be done using pegs and a stretched cord.

It is imperative to pay attention to all the recommendations of experienced builders. They will make your work easier, faster and more reliable.

Useful videos

Conclusion

If you build a swimming pool on your personal plot correctly in accordance with all the rules, you can make a truly high-quality hydraulic facility that will serve for a long time, despite the conditions of its operation. Do you think that if you carry out the work quite carefully and carefully, following a pre-created plan and diagram, you can achieve the desired result? What good advice would you give on building a pool using blocks? Share your comments and become useful to those who are planning to install a pool on their property with their own hands.

morevdome.com

A chic DIY concrete pool - anything is possible!

Every summer resident dreams of having his own swimming pool, which will allow him to relieve fatigue after a working day, keep his body in good physical shape, recharge with positive energy and simply refresh himself on a hot summer day. Many consider such a structure an unaffordable luxury, however, if you want to build a concrete pool with your own hands, it will be inexpensive. To do this, you will need certain skills, knowledge of technology and the availability of the necessary construction tools.

Today there are quite a lot of building materials that allow you to create a concrete pool at minimal financial cost. These economical options will be discussed.

Self-construction of concrete pools

To successfully build a concrete pool, you need experience in creating simpler structures, for example, an artificial pond. The process of creating a pool itself involves a whole complex of complex works, where the main stages are:

pit development
Creation drainage system
arrangement of thermal insulation
sealing the structure
reinforcement
filling the bowl
finishing.

For beginners in this field, building concrete pools with your own hands is an unusually difficult task, therefore, in the absence of experience, experts do not recommend taking on the solution.

If you make a mistake at one of the stages, you can’t even count on final success: low quality finished design and insufficient durability of the structure. We must not forget that all this will require serious financial costs, so immediately assess your financial capabilities, since saving is not appropriate here - you will lose more.

However, if a person has bitter experience of working with engineering and construction teams (as often happens), or wants to save up to 50% of money, then there is no reason not to take it a step higher - build a concrete pool with your own hands.

Below we will discuss directly the options for constructing a reservoir. But, in the beginning, it will not be amiss to understand the advantages and disadvantages of a country pool.

Advantages of a concrete pool

The main advantage of a monolithic concrete pool over prefabricated structures is its longer service life. If we compare pools in terms of strength, then concrete structures outperform all other types. They can even be installed outdoors.

Concrete is easy to finish, which allows you to decorate the pond in accordance with the wishes of the owner. Role finishing material mosaics, decorative plaster, tiles, etc. can play a role. In addition, the cost of constructing a simple concrete pool is significantly less than the cost of a finished product made from today’s popular composite materials.

Disadvantages of a concrete pool

Unfortunately, each structure has its own disadvantages, so now we will look at the main disadvantages of pools made of concrete or polystyrene poured blocks.

Improper installation of a water supply or drainage system can cause many problems when remodeling these same systems in the future.
Poor waterproofing of a concrete pool leads to leaks. A common cause of leaks is also considered to be poor quality building materials.
Poor construction materials and violation of the technology of exterior finishing of the pool lead to a violation of the integrity facing material– tiles, mosaics and other decorative elements simply begin to fall away.
A concrete pool requires serious maintenance. In the absence of this, mold forms on the walls of the pool, after which the desire to splash in the pool completely disappears, even after disinfection.

There is another serious drawback - the complexity of installation. Here we are not even talking about the builder’s abilities that are required to manufacture this structure, but rather the labor costs that will go into installation concrete structure.

Options for technologies for arranging concrete pools

The process of constructing different concrete pools can vary greatly. It all depends on the money invested, the technology chosen and the skill of the builders. Below we will consider the two simplest options, which answer the question of how to fill a concrete pool with your own hands and are suitable for every summer resident.

The first option involves using monolithic concrete poured using formwork as walls. The second option is based on the use of hollow polystyrene foam blocks, which are laid out on a concrete screed (horizontal). In both options, the arrangement of an outdoor pool will be considered, so the preparatory work for the two methods will be identical.

Option one - monolithic pool

First you need to finally decide on the geometry of the future reservoir. It should be noted right away that the larger the size of the reservoir, the greater the material costs will be. The minimum depth of the pool is 1.5 meters, otherwise it will be uncomfortable for an adult to swim. The walls and bottom will “steal” approximately 50 cm of the thickness of the bowl. This must be immediately provided for by making the pit a little deeper, longer, wider.

STEP 1: design. Before digging a pit, you need to develop a design for water supply and drainage systems so that the reservoir can function normally. It is possible to develop a pit only after the final determination of the location for the location of highways (filling, drainage). To prevent the foundation pit from collapsing, it is recommended to make walls with a slight slope (5° is enough).

STEP 2: filling the bottom, tamping waterproofing. To proceed to arranging the drainage cushion, the bottom is covered with a fifteen-centimeter layer of sand and a fifteen-centimeter layer of crushed stone. After falling asleep, the pillow is compacted and roofing material is spread over it, which serves as excellent waterproofing. To improve waterproofing properties, it is better to lay roofing felt in two layers so that its edges touch the walls (20 cm on each side).

STEP 3: reinforcement. Before pouring the bottom surface, a metal frame must be created. When arranging the latter, class A3 fittings are used. The rods are connected with wire. The use of welding in this case is prohibited, since traces of corrosion will appear in the weld areas over time. The interval between the rods is 10-50 cm (horizontal direction), 20-30 cm (vertical direction). The horizontal frame is best laid on small stones (average diameter 3-5 cm). It is important that the frame is located as close as possible to the center of the concrete screed. For a more reliable connection of vertical and horizontal rods, the latter need to be bent around the perimeter of the bottom.

STEP 4: Filling the bowl. At this stage, the concrete bowl of the pool is poured. It is clear that it is better to fill the walls and bottom in one go. This approach will give the structure maximum tightness and strength. In practice, this is extremely rare, so the bottom is filled first, then the walls. In this case, it is advisable to provide a slight slope (2-3o) for drainage, i.e. There is no need to make the bottom absolutely flat. You can use a pipe located at the bottom of the wall as a drain.

Important: in order to provide the bottom with high strength, it is recommended to use special vibration installations when pouring the solution, which allows for better compaction of the mixture. After this, the solution should harden and stand for 7-10 days. If the construction of a pool is carried out in the hot summer, it is recommended to wet the concrete with water daily. This will prevent cracking of the structure.

In order not to waste the precious time needed for the concrete mixture to harden, you can begin arranging communication systems. To arrange a drain, a trench is dug into the hole and a pipe is laid. Of course, the pipe is laid at a slight slope to the sewer. In this case, the water moves by gravity and water stagnation is eliminated. When pouring concrete, this pipe must be plugged so that the solution does not accumulate there.

After the bottom hardens, formwork is constructed for the vertical walls. Planed boards or plywood are most often used for formwork. The second option is considered preferable. The minimum distance from the vertical slope to the formwork (future wall thickness) is 40 cm. Next, vertical reinforcement is performed in the formwork, which is connected to the horizontal.

Then the concrete solution is poured and compacted, preferably using vibrating machines. After hardening concrete walls the formwork gets knocked down. You can move on to the final stage: sealing joints, impregnating the bowl with water-repellent compounds, lining and other finishing operations. The lining of the finished pool bowl can be finished with a large number of modern building materials. In this case, the owner may refuse to use decorative finishing in favor of the simplest and most modern method - covering the internal surfaces with PVC film. This material significantly increases the tightness of the bowl, giving it a blue color that is pleasing to the eye.

At the last stage, equipment responsible for supplying, purifying water, and disinfecting the entire pool is installed in the finished concrete pool. Then an easily removable drain valve is installed. A ladder, gangway and other “accessories” can also be installed. At this point, construction is considered completed. You can safely fill the reservoir with water and start enjoying pleasant water treatments.

Construction of a swimming pool using polystyrene foam blocks

In general, building a pool from polystyrene foam blocks is somewhat easier. However, its construction will entail additional costs for the acquisition of the blocks themselves, the price of which is quite high. At the same time, they will provide the pool with reliable thermal insulation, high strength, and extend its service life.

If we talk about preparing for a concrete pool with your own hands, then step-by-step instruction for block and monolithic construction, the design is identical. Preparation includes digging a pit, arranging drainage, laying a drain line, and finishing. Also, here the bottom (reinforced) is poured, which is left to harden.

Further, according to the technology (as opposed to monolithic) construction from blocks, polystyrene foam blocks are laid around the perimeter of the pool. This building material is lightweight and easy to connect the blocks, so no difficulties are expected here.

Pool walls made of blocks. The number of rows of polystyrene foam blocks is determined using simple mathematical operations. You just need to divide the depth of the bowl by the height of the block, which is 25 cm. So, for a pool 2 meters deep, you will need to build walls in 8 rows. After the construction of this kind of walls, they proceed to pouring the mixture.

The blocks are much lighter than ordinary sand-lime bricks and have large dimensions, so installation will be several times faster. It is also worth considering that the accuracy of the building material allows you to use much less binding material, which will significantly reduce construction costs.

Laying blocks. Expanded polystyrene blocks are equipped with special vertical holes. They are used to install reinforcement bars, after which the solution is poured. After the mixture hardens in polystyrene blocks, they proceed to finishing the pool surfaces with water-repellent plaster. Next you need to wait for it to dry.

At the last stage, pools made of blocks are covered with PVC film or covered with tiles. The work ends with the installation of equipment that fills, cleans, and disinfects water. At the end, you need to check the structure for leaks and pour water into it.

The above methods for creating a summer cottage pool in a country house cannot be called overly complicated. If you approach this process responsibly and understand the construction technology, strictly observing it, this task is already within the power of everyone. To get acquainted, we also suggest watching a video on building a concrete pool:

Do-it-yourself gazebo for a summer residence from scrap materials

Not every summer resident has his own house located near a body of water, where he can relax after physical labor and enjoy cool water on a hot day. Most often you have to drive to the nearest river, and some prefer to build their own swimming pool at their dacha. Its construction has many advantages.

Warm the settled water is used to water the vegetable garden and flower beds, also, such a pond is great entertainment not only for children, but also for the whole family. Exist different types country pools, photos of which will be presented in the article. So how to build a pool with your own hands?

2 Options for pools with a finished bowl

2.1 Fiberglass pool
2.2 Polypropylene pool

3 Options for pools with a hand-made bowl

3.1 Pool made of polystyrene foam blocks
3.2 Sheet steel pool

Selecting a location

The construction of swimming pools with your own hands, shown in the photo, begins with the fact that the ideal place for their placement is selected. Be sure to take into account the following points:

Options for pools with a finished bowl

To date It’s very easy to get a pond for your garden. You can purchase an inflatable tank and install it on your site. This will be the simplest and cheapest option, but it will only bring joy to children. Adults need something more substantial.

If you don’t want to bother with construction, you can just buy frame pool . This plastic design with metal tubes is quite suitable for adults, but the service life is not very long - only a few years. For the winter, it must be collected and stored in a certain place, which causes additional inconvenience.

If there is a desire have a full-fledged stationary swimming pool at your dacha, then in this case there will be only two options: purchasing a ready-made bowl or making it yourself.

Buying a ready-made bowl can save a lot of time and effort. The construction market is represented by three types of such products.

Fiberglass pool

The main advantages of this design are:

Polypropylene pool

The advantages of a polypropylene bowl are the same as those of a fiberglass bowl. It is necessary to note that installation of such a structure involves performing some concrete work.

The construction of a swimming pool usually begins with marking out the area for the foundation pit. To make your work easier, its dimensions are made slightly larger than the dimensions of the bowl. After this, excavation work begins. The depth of the pit should be 50 cm greater than the depth of the bowl. The extracted soil will be useful for backfilling, so there is no need to remove it.

After the pit has been dug, its bottom is leveled, covered with a layer of coarse crushed stone and compacted. Then install concrete screed. To strengthen it, a grid of reinforcement is connected to the cell. In order for the reinforcement to be located in the central part of the future screed, it is fixed at a height of 5 - 7 cm. After this, they begin pouring concrete. Here you also need to focus on the size of the pool. For a small reservoir, the solution can be prepared using a concrete mixer, but for a large structure it is best to order ready-made delivery. The bottom is filled, leveled and allowed to dry a little.

As soon as When the concrete slab hardens sufficiently, a layer of dense geotextile is placed on it, and after that - sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. They are connected to each other using construction tape or paper clips, but in such a way that the substrate is not damaged. After this, the pool bowl is installed and all the required communications are connected to it.

The walls in the stiffeners should be insulated with high-density foam plastic, after which holes are drilled in them and reinforcement or steel rod is inserted there. This is done so that the bowl with the concrete screed is fastened very firmly. Then they begin to pour a concrete screed around the walls of the reservoir. This is done in stages, the thickness of one layer of concrete should not be more than 30 cm. The formwork is installed, reinforced and filled with concrete. Important information! When pouring concrete, be sure to pour water into the pool so that the polypropylene does not bend inward under the weight of the concrete.

Job should be continued only after a day. The formwork is raised by 30 cm, reinforced and filled with concrete. At the same time, water is added to the pool. You can fill the soil back in gradually as the formwork is being erected, or you can do this after the filling is completed. All that remains is to improve the surrounding area and fill the pool with water.

DIY pool photo.

Options for pools with a hand-made bowl

You can build such a structure at your dacha without a purchased bowl. In this case, it will be necessary to line the concrete walls with your own hands, which gives free rein to your imagination and you can come up with an interesting design.

Pool made of polystyrene foam blocks

Such the material has become quite popular recently and is often used in the construction of outbuildings and houses. This popularity is explained by the fact that the blocks are easy to install and have a small weight, and this greatly facilitates the work.

Construction begins with digging a pit and filling the bottom of the pool. This is done in the same way as when installing a polypropylene bowl. After the concrete slab is ready, they begin to build the walls, and if it is planned to install a Roman staircase, then a special niche is provided for it. To make it more convenient to work, the contours of the future reservoir are applied to the concrete.

Then from polystyrene foam blocks, in accordance with the drawn contours, begin to assemble the pool bowl. This is done quite simply due to the low weight of the blocks and the presence of special grooves. To connect the pool equipment, pipes are removed. To eliminate all gaps, the places where pipes pass through the wall are filled with quick-drying foam.

As soon as the frame is ready, metal rods necessary for reinforcement are installed inside the blocks and connected to each other. Install a ladder and a skimmer basket. If voids appear in the walls, they must be filled with concrete. After this, the homemade reservoir is backfilled and finished.

DIY pool photo.

Sheet steel pool

Can purchase ready-made kits, which are used for the installation of such a pool. With their help you can quickly assemble a structure of any size and shape. Typically the kit consists of the following parts:

steel sheet, the width of which should be equal to the height of the sides of the structure;
fittings for fastening;
facing film.

All that remains is install it all, after which they begin to dig a pit at the dacha and lay out a concrete “pillow”. After this, a lower profile is attached to the bottom of the structure, which will be required for installing the steel sheet. Then the top profile is installed, and the canvas is fastened with a vertical profile. All that remains is to spread and secure the film, thanks to which you get a very beautiful finish.

To prevent the pool from becoming clogged with grass, leaves and dust, many install a retractable roof or cover it with a canopy. An indoor pool on a summer cottage is a great solution, because such a canopy allows you to clean your homemade pond only once a year.

Thus, building a swimming pool with your own hands is not too troublesome. It doesn’t matter which method is chosen for installing the structure, the main thing is not to be afraid of difficulties and boldly begin building such a reservoir on your summer cottage. And various types of pools are shown in the photo.