Laying parquet boards: proper organization and order of work. How to lay parquet: methods, necessary tools and step-by-step process for proper installation Laying parquet boards in an apartment

Many owners choose parquet boards as flooring. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the technology for laying parquet boards is followed, the floor will last for many years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.

Tools

Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. It is included in the standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying parquet boards: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

• On the logs.
• Using nails. The panels are nailed to the wood subfloor.
• Glue method.
• Floating method. In this case, the panels are connected using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a large room. Flooring using the glue method is used less and less today. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance characteristics of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced experts recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall should be sawed off to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal that the transverse seam in the first row would be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. For complete elimination the seam of the boards is beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal method

Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a sander belt type. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.

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How to lay parquet boards?

People who want to emphasize their high status, good taste and wealth when choosing flooring, as a rule, give preference to parquet. And all because this material has excellent wear resistance, high level reliability, it is environmentally friendly and looks simply gorgeous. The most problematic aspect and difficult type of work has always been considered to be covering the floor with parquet. But fortunately, with the advent of parquet boards, the situation has changed for the better, and even a novice builder or a person far from repair work can cope with this work. Today we will learn how to lay parquet boards yourself, guided by the recommendations and advice of experts.

Types of parquet boards

Today this material is produced in several variations. Multilayer and solid parquet boards are available on the market. Their main difference lies in the manufacturing method. And depending on the production method, they are divided into:

1. Solid boards are made from solid pieces of hardwood and softwood. They are fastened using ridges and grooves located at the ends of the boards. Such materials are not cheap due to the fact that huge pieces of the most expensive wood are used for their production.
2. Multilayer boards - two or three layers of wooden sticks glued together. To give them additional strength, during the production process the layers are stacked on top of each other exclusively at right angles. But they have such unique performance characteristics due to the use of different types of wood. Thus, the top layer is usually made from the hardest wood species, and the second layer is made from softer wood. Subsequent layers are formed from plywood or previously discarded pine or spruce lamellas. Such boards cost much less than massive ones, since smaller materials are used for their production.

Depending on the number of planks, parquet boards are also different. Namely single-lane, two-lane, three-lane and even four-lane. To understand which materials are best to choose, you need to know the following:

• The most popular are three-strip boards, because they are most similar in appearance to parquet and are inexpensive.
• The most budget option are parquet boards consisting of four strips, because they are made from the narrowest lamellas. Unfortunately, their unattractive appearance does not allow the designers’ ideas to be realized through a successful combination of lamellas.
• Single-strip and double-strip boards are the most expensive, because they are made from the widest pieces of expensive wood. A room with such a floor looks solemn and rich.

Important! They can also vary in thickness from 7 to 22 mm. And it is this parameter that directly determines how the board will be laid.

Features of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that even a beginner can install parquet boards, there is still a risk of completely ruining the coating. Therefore, during work you need to adhere to a certain installation technology.

If you want your parquet floor to last as long as possible, be sure to follow the rules below:

• The base must be well prepared. To do this, it is necessary to create a flat and durable surface, without any differences or deep cracks.
• It is necessary to maintain the required level of humidity. Although, thanks to modern technologies, wood is reliably protected from moisture, it is still not recommended to lay this material on the floor in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, because this is where the highest level of humidity prevails.
• The parquet board must be well prepared for installation. To prevent it from starting to warp and crack after all the work is completed, it should be left immediately after purchase in the room where it will be stored for several days.

Important! It is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity and temperature during the installation process. Make sure that the temperature does not fall below 18 degrees and the humidity remains at 35-65%.

• The board also needs to be additionally insulated, because it is especially susceptible to the negative effects of moisture and temperature. For this purpose, a substrate is equipped, which consists of a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing.
• Choose the correct laying direction. The boards must be laid in the direction of the sun's rays so that the joints are almost invisible.
• If the house where you want to lay parquet has a heated floor system, then you will have to create a separate covering of boards for each room. The fact is that each room has its own temperature microclimate and therefore the temperature can fluctuate within wide limits.

How to prepare the base for laying parquet?

Before learning how to properly lay parquet boards, read the information regarding the required preparatory work. This refers to the base on which the installation will be carried out.

Important! Parquet boards can be mounted on both concrete and wooden bases. Therefore, it is important that they are smooth and durable. If you are creating floors from scratch, then you will have to make them taking into account the future installation of parquet. If you have to work with an old floor, you will need to repair it and completely revise it.

Features of preparing a wooden base

If you want to use an existing wooden floor as a base, then you will need to complete a number of works before laying the parquet board:

• First you need to remove the old covering and check that the floor does not creak or fall anywhere, that there are no gaps between the boards and that all elements are firmly attached.
• If no problems are identified, then installation can begin. Otherwise, you will have to work hard if any defects are discovered.

Important! If the floorboards have simply dried out and there are large differences in height between them, then you can level the floor using putty or scrape it off. And if they are simply loose, then using self-tapping screws they can be attached to the joists.

• The most complex and time-consuming process is restoring damaged joists. The fact is that in such a situation you will have to completely dismantle the floor. Sagging joists can be raised by placing wooden chips or bars under them. And rotten boards will definitely have to be replaced.
• Maximum attention should be paid to the lag level. It is necessary to check that they are all in the same plane along the horizon.

Preparing to lay the concrete base

Here everything is much simpler and there is less work. You will have to do the following:

1. Remove the old coating and check for breaks, cracks and unevenness. If everything is fine, and there are small unevenness and cracks, then you can treat them with a primer on top, fill them with a special screed, which will level itself after drying.
2. If the concrete floor is severely crumbled, you will have to use a hammer drill to remove the old screed and re-lay it. And only after this it will be possible to start working with parquet.

Features of laying parquet boards in different ways

And now we will look at how to lay a parquet board with our own hands possible ways. Today there are three of them:

• floating method;
• using fasteners;
• through glue.

Important! It should immediately be noted that:

• Floating and glue methods require the creation of a continuous base for laying parquet. As a rule, they are used when working with panels of any type and thickness.
• By means of fastening, the boards are laid directly on the logs or wooden base - in this case it is very important that the board is at least 20-22 mm thick.

To choose best option For yourself and to find out the styling features, you need to familiarize yourself with each method separately.

Floating installation of parquet boards

This option is considered the fastest, simplest and does not require much labor. In this case, the boards are placed directly on the substrate, and the panels are connected to each other in a lock. And now in more detail how to lay a parquet board using a floating method:

• We lay the waterproofing on the already prepared base. It is better to use polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns for this. In order to end up with a solid surface, you should overlap the pieces of film next to each other so that the overlap is 15-20 cm. Then they are glued together with tape. It is also necessary to make an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls.
• The second layer is a substrate laid on top of the film. Foamed polyethylene or cork can be used as a backing. They need to be laid end to end. All cracks and joints will need to be taped.
• Before laying the board itself, you need to calculate the required amount of material. We do this so that if it is necessary to trim the last row, its width does not exceed 5 cm.
• Now we connect the panels of the first row and lay them with a tenon directly to the wall. To ensure a tight fit of the boards to the wall, it is necessary to cut off the tenons.

Important! In order to avoid damage and swelling of the boards due to fluctuations in humidity levels between seasons, gaps of 10-15 mm should be left between the boards and the walls. And in order for them to be preserved, pegs should be driven in.

• The panels of the second row are connected first, and then the entire row is connected to the first. You need to hammer the boards through a wooden block.
• You need to start laying the third row with a board, the length of which is equal to ⅓ of the normal panel.
• We start the fourth row with the whole board. All remaining rows are laid according to the same pattern.
• After laying the last panel, it is necessary to remove the bursting pegs and install the plinth.

Important! Often when performing work of this nature, problems arise related to bypassing water pipes and heating riser. To ensure perfect coverage in these places, you need to carefully trim the parquet board. As for the doorway, it is enough to make markings and cut the panel in the shape of a rectangle.

Laying parquet using glue method

Installing a parquet board in this way allows you to create a stronger monolithic structure, but you will have to work hard. In this installation option, all actions occur in the same sequence as in the method described above. But there are still some differences:

• In the case of working with glue, the role of the substrate will be played by waterproof plywood, which must be laid in rows at intervals. It must be additionally secured to the base with self-tapping screws or special pneumatic nails.
• Apply glue to the base and boards using a notched trowel. They should also fill all the grooves at the ends of the panels. You can remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

Important! The only disadvantage of this method is the high labor costs and complexity of installation.

Fastening method for laying parquet boards

This method is used when laying parquet on joists. In principle, most of the work is carried out similarly to the previous methods. But, of course, there are some differences:

• This method is used in cases of laying massive and multi-layer parquet boards with a thickness of 20 mm.
• Laying with fasteners is also used when laying massive boards on a solid wooden surface or on joists.
• Even at the installation stage of the logs, waterproofing and insulation are carried out.
• The boards are fastened by driving nails into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screwing in self-tapping screws.

Important! During the process of laying the joists, you need to make sure that the joints of the boards run right in the middle of the joists. And nails and screws must be at least 2 times longer than the thickness of the panels.

Video material

It is not so important which method you prefer, the main thing is to do everything carefully, following the recommendations of specialists and strictly adhering to the technology.

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How to lay a parquet board

Installation of parquet boards begins with the correct choice of material. This is not so easy to do, because the range is rich both in color and strength characteristics.

Before laying a parquet board, take care of the external conditions of its use. If the air in the room is dry, the parquet will shrink, which will lead to deformation and the formation of cracks, and if there is excessive humidity, the board will swell and bend. Optimal conditions for parquet will be air temperature +18-24 ° and relative humidity in the range of 40-60%.

Selection of material for installation work

Installation of parquet boards is not always a key step on which the service life of the coating depends. This is also influenced right choice material. After all, parquet is a wood covering, and each type of wood has individual characteristics of strength, moisture resistance, color, and structure.

Parquet boards are distinguished according to the following characteristics:

1. By type of wood.
2. According to geometric dimensions.
3. Looks like a cut.
4. According to the quality of the front side of the parquet.
5. By the number of parquet strips.

Despite the wide choice of materials, the main characteristics of the durability of the coating are:

• The wear layer is the face layer of the board;
• the hardness of the material is its resistance to mechanical stress;
• The stability of the material is its resistance to moisture.

Where to start styling?

After purchasing the material, you need to prepare the tools for laying the parquet boards in advance:

• jigsaw;
• hammer;
• square;
• pencil;
• construction tape;
• tamping block for parquet;
• hacksaw;
• perforator;
• miter box or angle cutter.

If the material and tools are prepared, let's figure out how to lay parquet. There are several technologies for laying parquet boards. Which one to choose depends on the reason and individual preference.

Types of installation:

1. The floating installation method involves laying the parquet on a cork base directly on the concrete screed. No glue is used in this case. The parquet is connected using a tongue-and-groove lock.
2. The adhesive installation method consists of connecting the boards using a tongue-and-groove lock, but with additional gluing with a special glue (not containing water).
3. The method of laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is to first level the plank surface using plywood, and then lay the parquet board on top of this structure.
4. Laying parquet boards on logs is carried out by creating a supporting structure from wooden blocks with a pitch of 300 mm and set at the same level. After which the parquet is laid on top of the logs and secured with nails.

Preparing the base

After purchasing the necessary material and tools for laying the coating, you can begin to work. The first step is to prepare the base. It is desirable that it be smooth and have no differences in height. If leveling the floor under a parquet board is necessary, it can be done in several ways: wet, semi-dry, dry screed, leveling with plywood or using joists. The method is selected depending on the condition and material of the base.

Working with a wooden base

An old wooden floor that cannot be dismantled can be prepared for laying parquet boards in two ways: leveling with plywood or pouring a concrete screed.

Laying parquet boards on plywood is undesirable, as swelling of the materials may occur due to changes in temperature and air humidity.

Leveling a wooden floor with plywood is carried out as follows:

1. The difference in height is determined.
2. If the difference is less than 8 mm and there are no sharp irregularities, then the plywood is attached to the old floor boards. If the difference is more than 8 mm, then a plywood sheathing is built from wooden beams and leveled horizontally.
3. Sheets of plywood are attached to the sheathing.

The second way to level a wooden floor is to pour a floating concrete screed:

1. The floor structure is strengthened with additional logs.
2. Placed on floor boards waterproofing material(polyethylene film).
3. Along the perimeter of the room, foamed polyethylene tape (20 mm wide) is glued to the walls.
4. Beacons are installed on the film, aligned to the zero level (horizontal of the future screed). The beacons are fastened using the same solution from which the screed is poured.
5. After the beacons are firmly secured, concrete is poured and aligned to the beacons using a rule.
6. After the concrete has dried (30 days), the surface is finished and the parquet is laid.

Preparing the concrete base

Leveling a concrete base can be done in several ways. Which one to use depends on the condition of the base:

1. If the height difference is less than 10 mm, then the base is leveled using self-leveling mixtures.
2. A difference in height of more than 10 mm is eliminated using a concrete screed device (the process is described above).
3. Parquet can be installed on logs aligned to the same level. Moreover, the board can be laid directly on the joists or first lay a layer of plywood, and only then the parquet board.

Parquet floor installation

Tips before installing parquet boards in any way:

• It is important to maintain the temperature and humidity within the limits indicated on the packaging (usually from 20 degrees Celsius and up to 60%, respectively).
• The material should only be unpacked before starting work.
• It is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the parquet and the wall. This will allow the wood to expand freely with changes in temperature and humidity.
• When laying parquet on concrete, a waterproofing material must be laid.

Floating method

The floating method of laying parquet is suitable for residential premises.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to lay a parquet board using the floating method:

1. Waterproofing material (foamed polyethylene or cork material) is laid on the prepared base.
2. There should be a gap between the walls and the parquet, so bosses of the same size are installed, which are removed after installation of the covering.
3. If necessary, design the location of the parquet board taking into account design ideas. Parquet boards can be located along the length of the room, along the width and diagonally.
4. Parquet is laid in rows across the floor area according to the principle brickwork, that is, each next row is shifted relative to the previous one.
5. Parquet elements that do not fit are cut to size.

The parquet planks are connected by inserting the ridge of one element into the groove of another, then the connected elements are tapped with a hammer through a special block so as not to damage the material.

Glue installation method

The sequence of actions of the adhesive method of laying parquet boards is the same as in the floating method technology. Only in this case, special parquet adhesive is used. It contains no water, so it will not harm the parquet.

Laying technology:

1. Install bosses to maintain the gap between the wall and the covering.
2. Decide on the location of the parquet board.
3. Apply a layer of glue to the surface of the base (only for one row).
4. Lay the first row of parquet boards.
5. Apply glue for the second row and install it, securing the rows with a tongue-and-groove joint. But at the same time, maintain a constant offset of one row in relation to the other (as in brickwork).

Installation using fasteners

1. All work is carried out by analogy with the “floating” method of laying parquet boards, but there are features:
2. Suitable for solid parquet boards or multi-layer boards 20 mm thick.
3. It is used when massive parquet boards are laid on joists.
4. Waterproofing is carried out at the stage of installing the logs.
5. To secure the parquet board, you need to drive a nail into the groove at an angle of 45° or twist a self-tapping screw.

Self-tapping screws or nails should be 2 - 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board.

An important point in laying parquet is the preparation of the base surface, because if it is uneven, the parquet planks will be under the influence of bending forces, as a result they will deform ahead of time. If the question arises of how to lay a parquet board, then the floating method has a number of advantages: simplified installation, no need to wait for the glue to dry, and the ability to quickly replace a damaged element. But the maximum area for floating technology is 240 m2.

Video - technology for laying Quick-Step parquet boards:

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How to lay parquet - diagrams and installation methods, step-by-step instructions!

One of the most attractive types of flooring is parquet. It allows you to create a surprisingly cozy atmosphere in your home, it is warm enough and you can use it to create an original pattern on the floor. That is why many people decide to opt for it during renovation. But not everyone knows how to lay parquet. Let's consider how this procedure occurs, what are the subtleties of installing such a coating.

How to lay parquet

Block parquet

Why parquet?

Parquet is a coating that is not only beautiful, but also durable and environmentally friendly. It is made from natural wood, which is why its cost is quite high. However, the material allows you to retain heat in the house, is hypoallergenic, has a service life of 25 years or more, and provides excellent sound insulation.

Parquet laid in a herringbone pattern

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is its high maintenance requirements. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Laying artistic parquet

Parquet can be of different types, and everyone can choose the most suitable option for themselves. The material can be piece, mosaic, panel, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet, which is called parquet board. All types of material differ in size, methods of laying and working with them. Some are easier to install, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

What is good about parquet boards?

Methods for laying parquet

The most common types of parquet are traditional piece, panel, and parquet boards. Depending on the type of material and type of base, the optimal installation option is selected. There are three main ones.

Table. Basic coating installation options.

Way	Characteristic
	This method is usually used if the base is made of plywood. Individual strips of material are placed on thick adhesive applied to the floor using a notched trowel. The choice of adhesive composition is very important and it is selected for a specific type of parquet. For example, if the glue contains more than 50% water, then it should not be used for parquet at all. The method prohibits carrying out other work in the room until the adhesive layer has dried, and this is what main drawback. But parquet laid in this way will adhere securely to the base.
Floating	In this case, individual planks are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove technology - there are special grooves and ridges on each plank, they are butted together and tightly connected. Glue is not used in this case. The good thing about this method is that it allows, if necessary, to disassemble the covering and reassemble it again, but if at least one plank falls out, the floor may completely collapse if measures are not taken.
Using fasteners	Parquet can be attached to the floor with nails. Usually in this case plywood serves as the base. The method is rarely used - builders and craftsmen give preference to the first two installation methods.

The most popular method of installing parquet flooring is adhesive. It is reliable, which is what attracts craftsmen. The choice of adhesive will depend on what kind of parquet is being installed. There are the following main types of adhesive compositions.

Reactive polyurethane parquet adhesive

Important! It is important to work very carefully with polyurethane-based glue. If such a composition gets on the front side of the material, it can damage the coating.

Laying parquet on a wooden floor

The glue is always applied using a special notched spatula. It is thanks to them that it is possible to apply the composition in a layer of the required thickness and evenly. Sometimes, for additional fixation, parquet staples can be used, which are driven at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor surface using a pneumatic gun.

Regular piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

Run-deck

Some parquet laying schemes

Laying Pavlovskaya wicker parquet

How to lay parquet correctly? Important aspects

Laying parquet has certain nuances - although the process is simple, it still requires a responsible and correct approach. If special requirements are not followed, the base will quickly collapse or lose its appearance.

1. The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within +18-23 degrees.
2. Air humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
3. Before starting work, the parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days. This will allow the material to “get used” to future operating conditions.
4. There should be nothing unnecessary in the room during work.
5. The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleared of debris.
6. You should not install parquet on old, swollen and damaged flooring.

If all installation conditions are met, as well as proper care of the parquet, the coating can last 60-80 years without any complaints.

Parquet floor

Parquet base

During preparation for installation of parquet, special attention should be paid to the rough base. It must be perfectly smooth and clean, there should be no roughness or bumps on it, otherwise the parquet will not lie as required and will last very little time. First, remove the old floor covering, if any. It is important to inspect joists and subfloors for damage and rot. If they are unsuitable for laying parquet, they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. In this case, the logs can be closed as wooden planks, and immediately with plywood. In general, such a floor has several layers - the concrete floor itself, joists, moisture-resistant plywood, adhesive composition and the parquet itself.

Installation of parquet on logs

The logs should have a thickness of 5-10 cm; before installation, they are coated with protective compounds that prevent rotting and destruction of the wood. Boards or sheets of plywood are already attached to them. The easiest way to fill the space between the joists is with some kind of insulation - it will make the floors warmer, which is especially important for those rooms that are located above the basement. To install a subfloor, you should not use plywood thinner than 12 mm. During installation, it is worth considering that there should be small gaps, about 1 mm wide, between its individual sheets. Slightly larger in width - about 1.5 mm - compensation gaps are also left along the walls.

Insulation of floor joists

Don't forget about waterproofing. It will provide protection for both the joist and the rough base, as well as the parquet itself, from excess moisture, which negatively affects the materials from which they are made. The easiest way is to use plastic film.

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on a concrete screed. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling mixtures will help level it. Also, such a base must be primed to ensure maximum adhesion. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

Scheme for laying parquet on a screed

On a note! You can level the concrete base with sheets of plywood. Fastening is done using dowels.

If a new concrete screed has been poured, then further work can be carried out only after it has completely dried. The drying time for the screed is about 28 days. At the same time, you cannot speed up the process by using heating devices - in this case, the screed may begin to collapse. Installation of parquet should not be carried out on a damp base. Checking this indicator in relation to the screed is quite simple - a piece of polyethylene measuring 1x1 m is placed on it and left there for a day. Then the film is lifted and its condition is assessed from the inside. If it is dry, then you can lay parquet; if condensation has accumulated on it, then the subfloor needs to be dried.

The screed must be dry before laying the parquet.

It is recommended to cover the concrete floor with a backing before laying the parquet, if we are talking about laying the floor using the floating method, and also with the adhesive method. It will ensure the most comfortable use of floors, as it smooths out minor unevenness in the base, increases thermal insulation performance, helps distribute the load on the parquet correctly and additionally protects it from moisture.

Parquet flooring needs an underlay

Tools and materials

For parquet laying work, certain tools may be required, as well as a number of materials. The list is approximate, since the need to use some of them will depend on the method by which the parquet is laid. May be useful:

• jigsaw or saw;
• grinding machines;
• drill, dowels and screws;
• hammer;
• measuring instruments and pencil;
• notched spatula;
• brushes and primer;
• moisture-proofing material;
• adhesive composition;
• nails, parquet staples;

Notched trowel

It is necessary to pay special attention to the purchase of the parquet itself - its service life will directly depend on its quality. You should not buy low quality, cheap or damaged material. Also, the parquet must be chosen in a color that matches the overall style of the room where the renovation is being carried out.

Installation on concrete floor

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but is quite expensive. Maple and beech materials are cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

Parquet laying process

The process of laying parquet flooring is not as complicated as it seems - it just needs to be done carefully and carefully, and then everything will work out. You should not choose a complex pattern if the master is not confident in his abilities - it is better to lay the parquet using the most common methods - for example, linear. But you can try to implement other variants of patterns or buy panel parquet.

Step 1. The surface of the rough base, which in this case is a concrete screed, is carefully ground - it needs to be leveled to perfect condition. The easiest and fastest way to do this is with a grinding machine.

Grinding the concrete base

Step 2. The resulting dust and other debris are collected using a vacuum cleaner. Corners and areas near walls are treated especially carefully.

The base is vacuumed

Step 3. A layer of epoxy primer is applied to the screed. The easiest way to do the work is with a roller with a long handle. The primer is applied so that there are no uncoated areas left on the floor.

Applying epoxy primer

Step 4. An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to glue, which is applied to the prepared base using a notched trowel.

The glue is applied with a notched trowel

Step 5. The backing sheets are laid end to end and smoothed by hand.

Laying insulating underlayment

Step 6. The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure the most reliable connection with the concrete screed.

The substrate is rolled with a heavy roller

Step 7 After this, the installation of mosaic parquet begins. The first rows of elements are placed at a short distance from the walls - a few millimeters are enough. These will be compensation gaps, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. Parquet adhesive is applied to the substrate using a notched trowel. It is applied in small areas, sufficient for gluing several elements.

Laying mosaic parquet

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer in joint with the previously laid ones.

Parquet elements are laid closely

Step 9 Each parquet element is carefully pressed to the base.

When laying the elements, you need to press them firmly to the floor.

Step 10 When the parquet is laid and the adhesive layer has dried well, the surface of the coating is sanded with a special grinding machine. Along the walls, the material is processed with an angle grinder.

Sanding laid parquet

Sanding parquet along walls

Step 11 The mosaic parquet blocks are being puttied. Using a wide spatula, a special composition is applied to the surface of the material and distributed evenly over the base.

Applying putty

Step 12 After this layer has dried, the surface is sanded using a surface grinder for parquet.

After the putty has dried, the parquet is sanded

Application of parquet oil

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

Parquet polishing

Video - Laying block parquet

This is how parquet flooring is installed. If everything is done in accordance with the requirements presented above, then anyone can cope with the task. However, in order for parquet to look beautiful for as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it.

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How to lay parquet boards - We do everything right.ru

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In this article I will talk about how to properly lay parquet boards.

Parquet boards are an excellent solution for fans of environmentally friendly, natural and at the same time high-tech building materials.

The presented floor covering is only one of the variety available on the construction market. Parquet boards are made by gluing three layers of dies or lamellas from wood of various species.

This coating has a lot of advantages. These include: increased moisture resistance, high-tech processing, modern attractive appearance, etc.

How to prepare the base for parquet boards

Finish floors (such as carpeting, regular tiles or laminate installation) can be installed on several types of surfaces. The choice of foundation depends mainly on the type of building.

For example:

• panel or brick house. The floors in them are reinforced concrete industrial or monolithic slabs;
• outdated buildings, wooden or frame houses, buildings made of light varieties of concrete. In this case, the load-bearing structures of the floors are wooden or metal beams;
• country cottage or private house. In them, on the first floors, the load-bearing structures for the flooring are special supports-columns, the base of which is soil.

In all the cases described above, the finishing coating will be laid using the same technology, but the preparation of the base for the parquet board will be significantly different.

If the floor covering is laid on top of concrete slabs, then a leveling concrete or sand-cement screed is preferably installed underneath it. The finishing coating on a fresh screed can be installed no earlier than thirty days after it was poured. In any case, before starting work, you should make sure that the surface is dry enough for this.

How to determine the degree of readiness of a concrete slab for laying parquet boards on a screed? It is necessary to cut out a sufficiently large square from plastic and secure it tightly to the stove using tape. For the same purposes, you can use a glass jar, placing it on the floor with the neck down.

After 24 - 48 hours, remove the plastic and check if there is condensation on it. Its absence indicates insignificant humidity, which, in turn, allows you to begin laying the parquet boards on the screed.

If there is strong condensation, then you need to either wait a little longer (wait until the surface is completely dry), or use some means to reduce the humidity in the room.

When preparing the base for further laying of parquet boards, regardless of the material used (it can be plywood, logs, chipboard, etc.), it is imperative to lay a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. The material used for it is polyethylene, roofing felt or a special waterproofing film.

Cut strips of insulating material are laid on a concrete base. They should be spread with an overlap of at least 15 - 20 cm. They are connected to each other using tape or mastic.

If in the room located below the equipped floor the humidity level exceeds the permissible level, then professionals advise laying two layers of insulating material and using bitumen mastic.

In some cases, if necessary, an additional layer of heat and sound insulation is installed. When using plywood for flooring, the insulation is made of polyethylene or polyurethane foam.

Plywood can be attached to the slab either with screws or with steel dowels. Holes should be drilled in the concrete first. Fixing a sheet of plywood begins from its center. Each sheet must be secured at thirty-two points. Only after this can you begin to lay the parquet board. Having prepared the surface of the concrete slab in the manner described above, moisture-resistant plywood is laid on it over the entire area. Its thickness should be about 2 cm. When installing the coating, make sure that the end seams of the sheets are spaced apart. Between separate elements There should be a gap of 5 mm, between the sheets of plywood and the surface of the walls - 10 - 15 mm. In the area of ​​doorways and other similar areas (in those where the cracks are not covered by baseboards), the sheets are mounted almost flush. The distance between them should be no more than 2 mm.

If there are beam floors, before laying the parquet board, a subfloor is laid as the base. If the location is too large beams from each other, logs are arranged.

The humidity of the logs should not exceed 12%, the distance between them should be from 40 to 60 cm.

The timber used when laying lags must be treated with an antiseptic. You can refuse impregnation only if the logs are made of larch wood, since this material is practically not subject to rotting.

The timber is laid exclusively on a pad made of cork (for sound insulation), roofing felt (for waterproofing), polyurethane and polyethylene. They are spread over the entire area of ​​the beam; there should be no breaks.

Installation of parquet boards

With temperature changes and a sharp increase in humidity, thanks to the three-layer glued construction, the parquet board practically does not change in its geometric dimensions.

This quality allows its installation using several methods. As in the case of a floating floor, the planks may not be mounted to the base, but glued together on all sides or connected to each other using special locks. They can also be attached to the subfloor using staples. In this case, the staples are installed in the lower “cheeks” of the tongues.

The products are sold in hermetically sealed packages. The humidity of this material is approximately 7%. The air humidity in the room in which the presented coating will be installed should not exceed 30/60% at a temperature of + 20 degrees Celsius.

It is necessary to lay a underlay between the finishing floors and the waterproofing layer. Porous polyethylene, which has closed cells, is often used as it. It helps smooth out minor unevenness in the base floor. You can use a substrate that has thermal and/or sound insulating properties. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 0.3 cm. The substrate is laid without overlapping the sections on each other.

Before laying the parquet board, it must be covered with drying oil on the back side. You can also use other paints and varnishes that provide additional protection against high humidity.

During installation, gaps of 1.5 cm should be left between the wall and parquet boards. This is also done in cases with doorways, heating pipes and the like.

The first parquet board is laid with a groove to the wall surface, while it is necessary to leave a compensation gap 1 - 1.5 cm wide. Then the remaining boards are laid without gluing. The end panel in the row should be rotated 180 degrees (with its front side facing up) and placed next to the already laid boards. At its end you need to leave a gap of 0.8 cm from the wall, put a mark and cut along it. When the wall is curved, their outline is marked on the first row of parquet boards. The boards are cut along the marked lines.

The first row is mounted as level as possible. This aspect can be checked using a cord. Each subsequent row begins with cutting the board from the previous row. After the first two rows of parquet boards have been laid, you can begin gluing them. To do this, you need to use a special glue for parquet boards; PVA glue and waterproof adhesive mastics are also well suited. Adhesive compounds should be applied in a thick layer to the end and longitudinal tenons of the panel. Using a wood spacer and a hammer, carefully connect the boards. After this, use tension straps to tighten them. Please note that the adhesive must come out of the joints onto the surface. Only then can we talk about high-quality gluing of the panels. Use a spatula to remove any glue on the surface. The boards should be wiped with a damp cloth or sponge. The last board in the row is pressed with a tie. Along the perimeter, after finishing the work, the laid panels are fixed with plinths.

In order to avoid moisture or shrinkage, varnish must be applied to the parquet board. It is necessary to coat the material with a varnish composition at least twice. This work is carried out within one week after laying the parquet boards.

If during the installation of boards there are differences in their thickness between some individual panels, then such areas are leveled with sandpaper. The coating is sanded only along the wood grain.

If mechanical damage was caused during installation of the parquet boards, they should be puttied. For these works, one-component mastics are used. Before application, the substance must be diluted with water. Mastic should be applied slightly more than the size of the damage, since after drying it decreases in volume. The dried, corrected areas are sanded.

The floors are varnished with polyurethane - acrylic varnish (it dissolves in water). This material is semi-gloss. You can also apply alkyd-polyurethane varnish or special parquet varnish. These materials have high wear resistance and are not subject to negative influences. household chemicals, moisture and various fats. After the surface is varnished, it must be left for a day. Only after 24 hours can you walk on it. Furniture can be installed only after a week.

Floating floor installation. Using special locks

Let's consider the construction of a floating floor that has a locking system.

First of all, you need to check the moisture level of the base. This is especially important when laying parquet boards with a locking system.

The moisture content of the concrete surface should not exceed 2%. For wooden coverings this figure can reach 8%. For anhydride base – 0.5%.

Purchased parquet boards should be left in the room in which they will be installed at least 2 days before the planned work.

Before installation, parquet boards must be sorted by shades, colors and patterns.

It is recommended to use natural materials as a substrate when installing parquet boards, such as:

• cork;
• corrugated cardboard;
• pressed slabs.

First, determine the direction in which the parquet board will be installed. This decision is based on the configuration of the room and its lighting. After this, the width of the room is measured.

The width of the compensation gaps is subtracted from the calculated parameter (it is equal to 2 cm). The result obtained is divided by the width of one strip. this way the number of rows and the width of the last one are determined.

If the last row is less than 7 cm, then the width of the first row should be reduced.

The first row is mounted with the upper locking part to the wall surface. They are connected from the end. Parquet boards are laid parallel to each other in the lock. For finishing, a hammer with appropriate accessories or special installation tools are used. After the first row has been laid, wedges are placed between the panels and the wall.

Installation of subsequent rows begins with cutting the boards remaining from the previous row. The only condition: it must be longer than 50 cm. It is laid at an angle with a tenon in the groove. You need to press it with your hand towards the already arranged row.

The planks are carefully tapped through the block. The next panel is mounted in exactly the same way. In this case, a gap of 3 cm is left between the ends.

After the boards are correctly joined, they should be carefully knocked together from the short side. They are connected at the ends.

Each subsequent row of boards is pressed against the previous one along its length from the end side. There should be no gaps at the end connections. For this work, special installation tools are used.

Mounting straps are not used when assembling the covering with the locking system. In areas with obstacles, such as columns, heating systems, etc., their configuration is marked on the strips, a hole is cut along the lines and then the panel is mounted. You should always remember to maintain the expansion joint.

When laying the last row, it is measured with extreme precision. In very rare cases, walls are located at an angle of exactly 90 degrees to each other. Therefore, the boards should be narrowed to the required dimensions by cutting them to length. After the last row is aligned with the rest, it is pressed using mounting tools.

The flooring is completely laid. Now you need to remove the spacer wedges. Then the floor skirting boards are installed. You can walk on the surface immediately after laying the parquet board.

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How to lay parquet boards with your own hands: technology

People who have practicality, good taste and do not want to skimp on their comfort often choose parquet as a floor covering. After all, when proper care it is very durable and has a beautiful appearance. Moreover, due to being made from 100% natural material, parquet is absolutely environmentally friendly.

But proper installation of parquet requires professionalism, and just anyone will not be able to do it. Everything changed when the production of parquet boards began in the 90s. Now the wood floor has the form of panels that interlock with each other and can be laid by anyone who knows how to use the tool and follows the installation rules. Further in the article we will try to figure out how to properly lay parquet boards and what are the nuances when working with this material.

Description of material

Let's start with a correct understanding of parquet boards as one of the types of wooden flooring. In its structure, it consists of wooden planks glued together from different wood species, which are located perpendicular to one another. This was done to increase the strength of the floor covering and make it resistant to temperature changes.

Parquet boards usually consist of three layers of wood:

1. Sanded and coated with several layers of varnish or oil. It usually has a thickness of 4 mm and is made of valuable wood to give the coating an aesthetic appearance.
2. It is considered basic and has a thickness of up to 9 mm.
3. The third (1.5-3 mm) ensures the stability of all planks and, together with the second layer, is made of coniferous species. Recently, plywood is increasingly appearing instead of the third layer to reduce the cost of coating.

Types of parquet boards

Before laying a parquet board, you need to make a choice and know its varieties. Thus, it differs in the top layer of valuable wood species, which can have from one to three stripes. Hence the parquet board can be single-strip, double-strip and three-strip.

The top layer of a single-sheet parquet board is solid and consists entirely of one sheet along its entire length. Since it is most difficult and expensive for a manufacturer to produce such a layer, the board has the highest cost.

In a two-strip parquet board, the top layer consists of two strips of the same width, evenly spaced along the entire length. The cost of such a board is inferior to the single-strip type.

The cheapest would be a three-strip type of parquet board, the top layer of which also consists of valuable wood, but has three strips of equal width.

Advantages and disadvantages

The described type of coating was invented with the aim of creating an alternative to parquet. There is no doubt that the parquet board consists exclusively of natural wood with all its advantages. It is sold completely ready for installation, since the material supplied for sale is panels that are equipped with locks for easy installation and do not require additional processing.

The advantages of parquet boards include less susceptibility to changes in temperature compared to parquet, which often swells in the warm season due to increased humidity, and in winter, due to the use of room heating means, begins to dry out and may even crack. The design of the parquet board allows it to bend and thus withstand deformation.

In terms of cost, parquet boards also outperform parquet due to the use of less natural material for production. But the disadvantage is the significantly reduced service life (10-15 years) of this material. It is also noted that parquet boards cannot replace the feeling of warm wood while walking on the floor.

Preparing the base

After selecting and purchasing a parquet board, the most important stage of preparing the base begins, since laying a parquet board is allowed only on a carefully prepared surface. It can be wooden or concrete; laying on logs or plywood is also used. But all expectations of the delights of a new comfortable floor will be groundless if the rough work is not done to prepare the base according to the following rules:

1. The base must be perfectly flat and strong. If the surface is durable, but has many minor differences, then self-leveling dry construction mixtures are used. If the base has significant differences, it is necessary to perform a screed.
2. Wood does not tolerate moisture, so the base must be dry and free of microorganisms (mold, fungus).
3. Any cracks, lifting or peeling are not allowed. Cracks are covered, peelings are cleaned and brought to the ideal level of the base, rises are removed and cleaned.
4. The surface must be cleaned of dirt and dust.
5. The parquet board is laid exclusively on the substrate. It can be made of foamed polyethylene or pressed cork. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bathroom, sauna, etc.), a 0.2 mm polyethylene film is additionally laid on the base with an overlap of 20 cm.
6. It is recommended to keep the parquet board in the room where it will be laid for two weeks before installation.

It is also possible to lay parquet boards on heated floors, but this has its own nuances.

Installation on heated concrete floor

Parquet boards are able to evenly distribute incoming heat. Therefore, heated floors will be a good basis for it. But before laying the parquet board on a warm floor and during further operation, it is important to perform several simple tasks:

1. It is necessary to turn on the floors at least 2 weeks before the start of installation at 2/3 of their rated power, and a couple of days before installation, transfer them to a level of 18 ° C.
2. When using the floor, it is important not to allow heating above 27 ° C, otherwise the temperature will have a detrimental effect on the coating - the floor dries out and the wood may shrink further.
3. Temperature changes throughout the day should remain within 5 °C.
4. Wood species of beech, maple and jatoba react more strongly than others to moisture and temperature changes, and therefore it is not recommended to lay such types of parquet boards either on heated concrete floors or in wet rooms.

Expansion seam

As already mentioned, due to its naturalness, wood reacts strongly to the level of humidity and ambient temperature. The consequence is the process of swelling or shrinkage of the material, which must be taken into account during installation in order to prevent deformation of the floor.

To do this, an expansion joint of 7 to 15 mm is left between the edges of the board and the wall, pipe, door casing, etc., which will prevent the board from resting against the wall when swelling. In the future, it can be easily covered with skirting boards or thresholds.

To prevent gaps from appearing between the plinth and the board in winter time years (when the floor dries out), when choosing a plinth, you should ensure that its width is one third greater than the width of the expansion joint. It is also worth making sure that after installation, no cables or other objects get into this seam that would interfere with its purpose.

Laying direction

To determine how best to lay parquet boards, you need to be guided by the direction of the incident light in the room. If the room has an oblong shape, it is better to lay the board lengthwise. When laying on a wooden base, the installation direction is determined by laying the parquet boards transversely on the subfloor boards.

How to lay parquet boards: technology

Laying should begin by calculating the number of rows based on the width of the room. If the width of the last row is less than 4 cm, then the first row should be cut. Since parquet boards can be laid correctly only taking into account the expansion joint, its size must be taken into account when calculating the number of rows. Also, to maintain the expansion joint, the ridges that are intended for fastening with other boards should be cut off from the boards of the first row of installation.

Speaking about installation technology, it is worth noting that it does not require professional knowledge of the builder. Of course, having experience in such work, you can cope with the installation of a parquet floor much faster, but the lack of experience will not be an obstacle. So, now we will figure out how to lay a parquet board yourself:

• First, along the walls where the installation is taking place, wedges are placed that will maintain the gap between the boards and the wall. They can be bought or cut to the desired size from the same parquet board.
• It is better to start laying from left to right, from a solid wall, placing the first board with a cut ridge against the wall in the corner. Then lay the first row, placing the short side of another board against the first short side of the board. The latter should stand at an angle to the first and rest its tenon against the groove of the first. Pressing down carefully, we lower the second board, and its tenon falls into the groove, forming a lock between the two boards.

• Next, the first row is laid in the same way. If the lock latches with difficulty, then a slight rocking of the board while lowering is allowed. But this must be done carefully and without harm to the castle as a whole.
• The last board of the row is cut with a saw or grinder, taking into account the expansion joint and laid in the next row.
• Next, the second row is formed, and its longitudinal tenons are gradually inserted into the grooves of the first. In places where the locks are not latched tightly, it is allowed to knock the board with a rubber hammer. To do this, a small wooden block is placed on the opposite side of the board, and it is carefully knocked down with a hammer until the lock is completely closed.
• The transverse joints between the boards in both rows should not coincide. You need to make sure that they are at least 30 cm apart from each other. This is how the installation continues until the end of the room.

Methods for laying parquet boards

Another significant difference between a parquet board and solid or block parquet is the variety of ways to lay it. Such opportunities contribute to the wider use of parquet boards as an alternative to parquet flooring. Depending on the base for laying, there are 3 main methods for laying parquet boards:

1. Floating.
2. Glue.
3. On the logs.

Floating method

It’s worth noting right away that this method is similar to the method of laying laminate flooring and is the simplest and most inexpensive. The boards are placed on a special substrate and are not attached to the base. But due to the deformation of the substrate or the imperfection of the base, over time one way or another, deflections of the parquet board will form. It is thanks to them that a board laid using this method cannot be restored without complete dismantling.

If you are installing a large amount of furniture or other heavy objects, this installation method is not recommended, as gaps may form between the joints of the boards.

Glue installation method

It is used when a solid subfloor is absolutely necessary or when laying over large areas. When using this method, nothing will be better than laying the parquet board on plywood, preferably moisture-resistant. To do this, glue is applied to an absolutely flat surface and plywood is laid in a checkerboard pattern in sheets up to 80 cm. Small gaps of 3 to 6 mm are left between them so that the material “breathes” and deformation does not occur due to temperature changes. Next, the plywood is screwed to the base using dowels and screws. Now you can lay the parquet board, but only after 2-3 days after the glue has completely dried.

The board is attached to the plywood using polyurethane glue. Laying parquet boards both on glue and on a base without it is equally simple. This process easily fits into the general installation technology. The main thing is to not allow the glue to dry out and immediately remove any remaining glue from the seams.

Laying on joists

This method makes it possible to quickly and reliably arrange a base for a parquet board. With a flat surface, the logs are attached to the floor at a distance of up to 900 mm. If the base is uneven, then beams are screwed into the logs, which are adjusted in height with bolts.

The base for the parquet board is laid on the logs to distribute the load. It can be made from fiberboard, chipboard or special large-sized parquet slabs.

There are also options for directly laying parquet boards on logs. Next, the process is carried out using general technology.

How to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor

The difficulty of such work lies in the lack of perfect fastening of the wooden floor to the base, as a result of which kinks, creaks, gaps, etc. arise. This can be combated with the help of coarse putty mixed with sawdust. This mixture clogs all gaps, joints and junctions. This is followed by grinding the base using special equipment.

Plywood is often used to smooth out all irregularities and remove gaps, secured to the floor with self-tapping screws. Laying parquet boards is done using the adhesive method.

Existing methods of laying parquet boards allow it to be used in almost any conditions, and in appearance it is not inferior to parquet. At the same time, the costs will be significantly lower than the costs of parquet, especially if you lay the parquet boards yourself.

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How to lay a parquet board depending on the rough base?

Among modern floor coverings, parquet boards rank high. When ennobling such finishing material the room takes on a beautiful appearance, and this indicates the good taste of the owner. Previously, parquet was an expensive material and its installation also required experience and skills. But, with the development of new technologies, all processes have become easier. At the moment, this work can be done independently. It is enough to know how to use the tool and study the installation instructions well.

How to lay parquet boards and prepare the floor?

The most important factor in this process is the choice of quality coating – wood. It is better not to chase cheap material, but to opt for a well and properly dried coating with good geometry. Another important factor is the quality of the adhesive composition. It would be good to give preference to an already proven option, so as not to spoil the final result.

Preparation for installation

In order to properly prepare the surface for laminate assembly, it is important to decide what type of base will be chosen. The installation technology is the same in all cases, only the base may differ significantly.

If the coating is laid on concrete slabs, then it is necessary to level it with a concrete or cement-sand screed.

Cement screed for parquet boards

It is not recommended to install laminate flooring on a fresh screed; it must be left for at least a month, and it is best to wait for the surface to dry completely. The degree of drying can be checked. To do this, cut a large square from the laminate and use tape to secure it tightly to the plane. You can also take a regular jar and place it on the floor with the neck down. After the square has been passed for at least 40 hours, it is necessary to disconnect it and check whether condensation has collected. If it is missing, then you can start assembling the parquet board, and if it is, then you should still give it time to dry. You can try to reduce the humidity in the room using some method. Requirements for the screed:

• It is better if the residual humidity reaches no more than 5%;
• Differences on the surface should not exceed 2 mm;
• With high humidity, wait until the norm is normal;

At this stage it is necessary to have a laser level and a moisture meter in order to determine the residual moisture or use the advice above.

When preparing the base for the laminate, regardless of what material will be used, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer.

Laying a waterproofing layer

To do this, you will need roofing felt, ordinary but dense polyethylene, or a waterproofing film specially made for this purpose. The prepared strips of this material should be laid on a concrete base with an overlap of 15 or 20 centimeters. The joints can be connected to each other with mastic or tape. If the room is located in such a way that the humidity level is often high, experts advise making two layers of insulation: a waterproofing layer and bitumen mastic. Some cases also require the installation of a layer of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If plywood is used for covering, the insulation should be made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene. If logs are used between them, it is necessary to use a special insulation made of mineral wool.

Plywood is laid to concrete with screws and dowels. But, before this, you first need to drill holes of the appropriate size for them. The plywood must be attached from the middle of the sheet.

Arrangement of plywood sheets

Before laying the laminate flooring, you need to secure the plywood sheet in approximately 32 places. Its thickness should be at least 2 centimeters. During fixation, it is important to ensure that the seams are not staggered.

If there are beams on the surface, before laying the parquet board, you should make a subfloor. If the beams are far from each other, it is necessary to install logs. The distance between the logs should be approximately 50-60 centimeters.

No. 4 Installation of wooden logs

The timber that will be used for logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. But, if they are made of larch beams, you can refuse this process. This material is of very high quality and does not rot. It needs to be placed on a special cork pad to provide sound insulation and roofing material to perform waterproofing. This material must be laid out around the entire perimeter, without gaps.

To lay high-quality parquet, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If you look from the bottom up, you can see such a “parquet cake” consisting of layers:

• Flooring made of concrete mixture;
• Waterproofing layer;
• Self-leveling agent;
• Primer;
• Adhesive;
• Plywood is moisture resistant;
• Parquet glue;
• Parquet board.

As waterproofing, you can use not only polyethylene film, but also foil-clad polypropylene reinforced film.

Purchased goods in packages should be opened in advance so that the material can adapt to room temperature. It is better to do this process several weeks before the installation begins, but, as a last resort, 48 hours in advance. Installation of the board is not permissible if the concrete screed has a difference of more than 2 cm. But suddenly this situation is discovered, it can be corrected by using a self-leveling mixture.

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor

Savings should always be justified. It is important to check before assembling the laminate how suitable the existing wood flooring is to serve as a base for the subsequent material. It must be durable and withstand certain loads. But how to find out? What conditions apply to rough wood covering?

• Check the slope of the wooden floorboards, and for two linear meters it should be no more than 2 mm.
• When walking, the boards should not creak;
• There are no significant differences;
• When moving, the boards do not move and are well fixed;
• Make sure that all boards of the old covering are tongue and groove.

If you have even the slightest doubt, you can ask a professional for advice, and also not take risks, but dismantle the old wooden floor yourself. But, if everything is fine and the coating is suitable, then you can begin preparing the base for installing parquet.

Installation of parquet boards on a wooden floor

Preliminary work with the base

All boards that move a little must be firmly fixed. Then clean from dust and dirt, as well as grind. After the wooden floor is prepared, it should be treated with an antiseptic. Old wooden boards must be covered with glue and moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is 12 mm, placed on top. It is also important to leave expansion joints of about 2 mm between the sheets. Then secure the sheets with screws with a distance of 20-25 centimeters between them. Fixation should be carried out so that the screw head extends approximately 3 millimeters into the sheet. To remove defects and irregularities on plywood, you need to sand the surface with a special machine.

Sanding a wooden surface

There are some rules that must be followed when installing laminate flooring on a wooden surface.

• All rough work indoors must be completed;
• During installation, it is important to comply with the established temperature conditions, as well as the percentage of humidity;
• The temperature in the room should not be more than 24 degrees;
• The humidity in the room is no more than 60%.
• The humidity of the base on which the parquet will be installed is no more than 6%.

Laying process

Experts give advice on laying laminate flooring: the boards must be assembled in a different direction from the wooden floor; it should be laid transversely or diagonally. The parquet is fixed using an adhesive. It must be applied to the base and the board should be placed so that maximum contact between the segments is achieved. The boards can also be pulled together, if necessary, with wooden wedges. Leave a compensatory gap between the walls and the parquet.

Laying parquet boards

The boards that are located in the first row should be oriented towards the wall with a groove. Place the screws so that after installation they can be hidden by the floor with a plinth. A parquet board with a width of more than 15 centimeters must be additionally fixed on the front side. This step can be performed as a decorative element and drive a self-tapping screw 1 centimeter deep and cover the hole with a colored wooden plug.

How to properly lay parquet boards on joists?

This process does not contain wet and dirty steps, and no cement mortars will be required. This method is practical, since it is possible to lay various wiring, cables or pipes between the joists, and you can also lay an insulating layer.

There is no need to allocate time for drying the screed, which significantly reduces the installation time of the floor covering to less than a month.

Leagues are pieces of dry timber that are pre-coated with an antiseptic. It will serve as excellent protection against harmful influences and the occurrence of fungus and mold, which can shorten the life of the surface.

The logs must be placed so that they are perpendicular to the parquet board and secured to each other. It is important to level them. If there are some unevennesses, they can be corrected by tapping. And then attach special wedges to them.

Instead of regular lags, you can use adjustable ones. They are the same as wooden blocks, only they have through threaded holes into which plastic stand-up bolts should be screwed, which are firmly fastened to the ceiling. The height of these racks is adjusted with a special key. At this moment, the logs can rise or fall, leveling the surface.

Layers of plywood must be laid on top of the joists. First, the first one, which is attached with self-tapping screws, and then the second one - with glue, and then also with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should not be buried more than 4 mm. Plywood with a total thickness must be at least 20 millimeters. Large sheets can be sawed into even pieces to relieve internal stress. The topmost layer must be sanded and only then the parquet board should be laid on it.

It is possible to install parquet boards on old parquet flooring. This process should only be performed if it is still strong enough and does not creak. In this case, it is necessary to carry out thorough sanding to achieve a perfectly smooth parquet surface. It should be used with a drum sander to remove defects and irregularities. Then the surface must be puttied. For this you can use fine parquet dust, which was obtained during the grinding process and a special liquid.

After the sanding process, the parquet must be varnished three to seven times using a roller.

Hiding parquet boards with varnish

The first layer is a primer that saturates the pores of the board. Before applying the final coat, the pre-applied varnish must be sanded to remove wood fluff. It rises up from the impact of previous layers of varnish on the wood.

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Installing parquet boards yourself is quite acceptable if you strictly follow the algorithm of actions according to the chosen type of installation, choose the right materials and fasteners, and take the time to prepare the surface. What methods of installing boards exist and what are the features of each of them? More on this below.

Armed with simple knowledge, almost anyone can lay a parquet board on their own.

The prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when the Swedish company Gustav Chers found a way to replace expensive piece parquet with an almost identical analogue at a budget price.

The first board consisted of two layers. The presence of a number of shortcomings did not allow the authors of the product to modernize it in the near future. But just five years later, another Swedish manufacturer, Tarkett, launched the world's first three-layer parquet board on the market. Today the material is presented practically unchanged and is in great demand among consumers.

Each layer of parquet board is designed for specific purposes, which together makes this material durable and wear-resistant

The production of parquet boards with an oil or varnish coating opens up the opportunity for people with average incomes to afford finishing the floor with natural wood within their budget. It is noteworthy that you can lay parquet boards with your own hands, quickly and without violating technology. During operation, such a floor can be easily repaired by replacing individual sections.

The material is presented in a wide range of different colors and shades, with a variety of textures and parameters.

Design features of the board: what does it consist of?

The new generation parquet board is a practical three-layer board made of natural wood species with a length from 2000 to 2600 mm, a thickness from 13 to 15 mm and a width from 139 to 210 mm. Parameters vary depending on the manufacturer. For the finishing layer, varnish or oil mixtures are used.

The structure of the board is the bottom layer, which plays the role of a stabilizer, the middle and so-called working layer is the top layer. Each of them plays a role.

The bottom one is made of spruce veneer, usually 2 to 4 mm thick, designed to stabilize the boards and prevent them from deforming. The middle layer with a thickness of up to 8 mm is made of pine planks with a width of up to 30 mm, laid out along the width of the board.

The front top layer is lamellas made of practical expensive wood with a thickness of up to 5 mm, laid along the length of the board, fixed to the surface of the middle layer with glue. It is the top layer that is responsible for the appearance of the board, recreating the structure of wood with a certain pattern on the surface.

The working layer must be sanded and additionally treated with oil or varnish mixtures. Then, during use, the parquet board can be sanded again at least three times with the varnish or oil coating renewed.

Parquet boards are much easier and faster to lay than regular parquet due to its design features

The wood fibers of the layers bonded together are located perpendicular to each other. This fastening option helps prevent floor deformation under the influence of temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity.

It is not difficult to independently assemble parquet based on parquet boards, since the material is additionally equipped with a tongue-and-groove locking system. The top layer strips - lamellas, depending on the type of product, can have different arrangement options.

What styling options are used?

Before you begin preparing for installation, you need to decide what the installation technology will be, taking into account the type of base, the characteristics of the material (structure and parameters). There are three options for attaching dies:

• on glue;
• mechanically;
• "floating" method.

Each option has its own characteristics. The so-called “floating” method with a tongue-and-groove system is considered the most common. Laminate flooring is also installed using a similar scheme. It will be relevant only in cases where the thickness of the die does not exceed 14 mm.

The main advantage of this mounting option is that the board will not require additional processing after installation and can be used immediately after the varnish or oil mixture has dried on the floor surface. In addition, laying parquet boards in this way is not difficult and can be done even by people without experience.

Option for laying parquet boards with glue on a concrete base

The so-called adhesive method involves attaching the coating to glue and simultaneously gluing the boards together. This option is convenient to use when the thickness of the dies is more than 14 mm. Its disadvantage is the labor intensity of the work and the cost of high-quality glue.

The mechanical fastening option involves the use of self-tapping screws. The fasteners are driven into the groove at a certain angle. This installation option is appropriate when using boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more with a rough base made of wood or joists.

How to properly prepare the base?

You need to understand that step-by-step instruction Installation of parquet boards will differ depending on the type of subfloor. Preparation of the floor for installation of wooden covering includes:

• recovery;
• adjustment;
• cleaning

All types of work are an important stage in the installation of parquet boards, therefore they must be carried out with maximum responsibility.

You should not neglect even such simple operations as routine floor cleaning; this may affect the evenness and durability of the parquet flooring

How to prepare a wooden floor?

The technology for preparing a wooden floor depends on its condition. If the base is relatively new, with virtually no defects in the form of height differences, boards with mold or fungus, the restoration stage is skipped. The old floor will need to be repaired and damaged areas replaced as necessary.

But it won’t be possible to do without adjusting the base. Deflections of the boards will require strengthening, knots - grinding, cracks - sealing. An important point is to check the degree of surface curvature. To achieve a perfectly flat surface, you can treat the floor with sanding equipment or choose the option with putty. An obligatory stage is checking the joist structure, which involves dismantling the boards in one of the zones to analyze the condition of the subfloor.

Preparing a wood floor may take longer than laying hardwood floors, but it is essential to do so.

Concrete base - preparation features

If you plan to lay it yourself on a concrete base, then the preparation process will not be as complicated and time-consuming as in the case of a wooden floor.

First of all, a visual assessment of the surface is necessary. At this stage, cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle crumbling concrete are identified. Even small defects must be repaired, for example, using self-leveling mixtures. Before treatment, the surfaces are primed, or, as an option, the old coating is dismantled and a new, smooth and strong one is poured in.

Quick adjustments to small areas of the floor can be done using improvised means.

What do you need to know about underlayment for wood floors?

Regardless of the type of installation and type of base, it is correct to lay the parquet board on the backing layer. The material between the finishing and subfloor performs the following functions:

• smoothes out minor unevenness;
• increases the level of heat and sound insulation properties;
• evenly distributes the load while using the floor;
• prevents contact of moisture with the finishing wood coating;
• extends the service life of the floor.

The most commonly used backing is polyethylene foam; duplex, cork, foil backing and polystyrene layers are also popular.

It is better to spend a little more time and money on installing a parquet floor underlay than to regret a possible unsuccessful result in the future

How to attach a board with glue: instructions

It should be noted that laying parquet boards is not easy. The method is one of the most labor-intensive, implying significant costs for materials for fastening. Most often, this installation option is chosen when it is necessary to install a floor in large rooms. However, in apartments and private houses, parquet boards can also be glued to the surface, not forgetting that adhesive mixtures set quickly and it will not be so easy to correct defects during the work process.

High-quality and correct installation with glue involves attaching the dies directly to the base. Apply glue to a screed made of concrete, plywood or a gypsum version of the subfloor. The base must be prepared - smooth and clean. Lay the board according to the following algorithm:

1. The first row of dies is laid out in the order in which they will lie, after which glue is applied to the subfloor, taking into account the area occupied by the first row.
2. The first plate is mounted with a gap from the wall (at least 6 mm).
3. The second board is attached to the first using a special tamping hammer. You need to fix the floor elements together quickly, given that the glue dries quickly and does not leave time for making adjustments.
4. The last board in the row is trimmed if necessary.
5. Lay the remaining rows of boards.
6. The last row is also trimmed if necessary.

As a rule, one- or two-component water-based adhesive is used for installation, which provides the required level of fixation of the material on the surface of the base.

Laying parquet boards on glue - correct solution for any room

How to lay parquet flooring using the floating method: steps

The simplest is do-it-yourself floating installation. The work will not take much time, is carried out dry and does not require additional fastening elements. You can begin installing the floor immediately after installing the substrate. And here again, there are two styling options:

• on glue;
• using a locking system.

In the first case, in addition to ready-made tongue-and-groove joints, glue is applied to the ends of the boards for additional fixation between them. Laying on the subfloor will look like this:

• the boards are placed with the ridge side towards the wall, moving from the left corner of the room;
• the second board is inserted into the lock until a characteristic click is heard and the end parts are pre-treated with glue;
• If necessary, the boards of the last row and at the threshold are trimmed.

To achieve the tightest connection and reliability of the “floating” floor, the boards are hammered together with a special hammer.

Laying using the “floating” method in certain cases also takes place, especially since it is simpler and faster than others

Installation of parquet boards on joists - how to do it correctly?

To correctly lay the board on the joists, you need to have minimal experience working with parquet materials, since this method is quite complicated compared to those described above. Mount the material on the logs according to the following algorithm:

1. Check the moisture level of the logs and eliminate possible defects.
2. The logs are covered with a plywood backing. This stage is skipped only if the parquet board has a sufficient level of thickness. The step between the lags is small.
3. Parquet dies are fixed with glue or using a locking system to the backing layer.

The finished floor can be used almost immediately after installation.

If the house already has a foundation made of logs, there is no need to disassemble it, you can simply eliminate the defects, possibly strengthen it and begin laying the parquet floor

Parquet boards and “warm floors” system - is it possible?

Despite the high level of heat and sound insulation properties, the base for parquet boards can be arranged according to the “warm floors” principle. Additional thermal insulation will not hurt, especially since the material is quite harmoniously combined with the design of the heated floor.

The only possible option for underfloor heating for installing parquet flooring is water-based. Electric heating systems are excluded, since increased temperatures in the floor area will lead to cracking as the boards of the interlocking system are used.

Laying of the material begins with the system turned off and cooled to room temperature. After installing a wooden floor, it is connected no earlier than a week later, gradually increasing the temperature. It is important that the temperature over the entire surface of the floor is the same - this will prevent deformation of the coating.

Option for water-based underfloor heating under parquet boards

The final part of installing a parquet floor will be the installation of baseboards and thresholds. The threshold is necessary to disguise the transition between rooms; in addition, it will allow, regardless of what installation methods were chosen, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the room, protect joints from dust and dirt, extend the service life of the floor, and create a holistic picture of the interior.

The threshold can be made of wood, laminate, metal, plastic and even cork.

To avoid damage to the parquet board, use only recommended equipment

In conclusion, a few useful tips. Considering that the material will have to be trimmed, it won’t hurt to know how to cut a parquet board so as not to damage its integrity. The ideal option is a jigsaw. The tool will allow you to cut the board quickly and efficiently.

To ensure that the seams on the finished wooden floor are not so conspicuous, they should be positioned parallel to the light falling from the window. Parquet boards can be laid not only on concrete or plank floors, but also on non-standard base options - linoleum, carpet or tiles. In such cases, the underlay is not used, since the subfloor already has the necessary level of heat and sound insulation.

Among the variety of modern floor coverings, parquet has always stood out for its excellent characteristics. It is elegant and solid, practical and comfortable. This floor will decorate any home. It is warm, pleasant to the touch, durable and durable. To lay such a floor covering, it is not at all necessary to order an expensive team of workers - it is quite possible to make parquet with your own hands.

Laying parquet on a screed.

Before carrying out such work, it is necessary to decide on the type of parquet and the option for its installation. The material consumption and the appearance of the room will depend on this. It is necessary to take into account the level of natural light, the direction of laying the panels, and their configuration.

After this, the base is prepared; it must be strong and as even as possible. After completion of the work, the floor must be cycled, that is, it must be sanded so that it becomes perfectly flat and smooth. The final stage is varnishing. Before this, the parquet will need to be tinted to give it the desired color. Tinting is not a mandatory step. If you want to give your parquet floor some originality, you can also apply tinting.

Which parquet to choose for installation?

Before purchasing parquet, you need to decide what type of board is suitable. Today, manufacturers offer a variety of options; products can be used for different conditions. For example, only for large or small rooms. All types of parquet boards are usually divided into the following groups:

Types of herringbone parquet installation.

1. Single-strip parquet board. It is made using a special technology; during processing, the integrity of the wooden die is preserved. The coating is most suitable for flooring in large rooms. Single-strip parquet perfectly conveys the beauty of natural wood and its natural structure.
2. The two-strip parquet board in the upper part consists of 2 dies. This makes it possible to use the coating not only in large but also in small rooms.
3. The three-strip parquet board is original and unique. 3 dies are placed on one board, the surface is composite. It is this type of coating that is confused with the so-called piece parquet.
4. Not so long ago, chamfered parquet flooring was used only for the most expensive and elite interiors. The parquet is beautiful, it looks luxurious, solid and expensive. Today it is used for large halls, bedrooms and living rooms with elegant interiors.
5. Parquet boards, which have a special coating and impregnation, are used for rooms with high traffic levels, ballrooms and sports halls. In addition, there is a special waterproof variety that is recommended for use in kitchens, dining rooms, hallways, and halls.

The process of laying parquet with your own hands

Anyone can handle parquet installation.

Flooring methods:

• floating installation;
• installation using special parquet adhesive.

Stages of laying parquet.

There is another installation option when the planks are additionally secured with nails. This method is rarely used and is not practical. Floating installation means that the planks are joined together with a tongue-and-groove connection. This is the easiest way, anyone can do it.

The floating method is called because the parquet is not connected to the base, a single covering is located above it. This allows temperature and humidity changes to be properly controlled. The floor does not warp, cracks and crevices do not appear on the surface, and there is no squeaking. During installation, it is necessary to retreat approximately 1 cm from the walls - this will be a temperature gap.

Installation should begin on a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which is laid on a leveled base. Then you should lay a layer of sound insulation, which is perfect for cork. Its porous structure and unique properties make it possible to give the flooring the necessary characteristics. The floating coating is of high quality; if necessary, it can be easily repaired, i.e. replace damaged strips.

Adhesive installation of parquet is quite complex and requires attention and labor. To complete the work you will need:

• parquet planks of the selected type;
• special parquet glue;
• notched metal spatula;
• electric drill with a construction mixer attachment for mixing mixtures.

Scheme for laying parquet boards.

Before starting work, the base must be leveled, then covered with a layer of soil to ensure excellent adhesion of the glue and the base. The primer is selected depending on whether the floor is concrete or wood. Work should only begin at room temperature, the humidity level should be normal. After the primer has dried, glue is applied to the base in small sections, since the mixture will become unusable after 20 minutes.

The planks are attached not only with glue, but also with a locking connection. This installation method is the most durable. You should move from the far corner to front door. After the parquet has been laid, it is necessary to sand the floor surface, for which special sanding machines with various attachments are used.

The first scraping is done using coarse sandpaper, then it is necessary to process hard-to-reach places and corners with an angle machine. The final sanding is done using fine sandpaper. It allows you to give the floor a smooth finish.

Schemes for laying parquet boards

Floating method of laying parquet.

You can make parquet with your own hands using a variety of designs. Today the most popular laying schemes are:

• deck board (the most common laying method);
• herringbone;
• diamonds;
• squares;
• Sheremetyevo star;
• mosaic, or wickerwork.

Deck installation is the simplest.

Parquet blocks are laid with the boards offset in each row; it is best to start work from the wall opposite the door.

The scheme is perfect for any room, including small ones. There are many varieties of deck layouts; you can lay the following options yourself:

• chaotic scattered laying;
• shift the board by 1/3;
• shift the board by ½;
• chaotic diagonal pattern;
• diagonal shift by 1/3;
• diagonal shift by ½.

Laying piece parquet in a herringbone pattern: a – lighthouse herringbone, b – connection of groove and tongue, 1 – grooves, 2 – tongues, 3 – parquet strips.

The herringbone pattern is used for parquet boards, which have tenons on the corner sides, the connections are directed in one direction. The angle of laying the dies can be 45 degrees or 90.

Varieties of herringbone pattern:

• regular diagonal at 90 degrees;
• diagonal at 90 degrees in 2 strips;
• diagonal at 90 degrees in 1 strip;
• straight laying at 45 degrees;
• direct scheme in 2 and 1 plank.

It is best to lay such a pattern with glue; the surface should be perfectly level. One of the most popular schemes for making parquet with your own hands is laying it in squares and braid. This method can be used for any room. You can combine straight and diagonal patterns, use planks of different sizes, shapes and colors.

Finishing coating: tinting and surface varnishing

After the floor has been sanded, you can begin tinting and varnishing it. The first step is to tint the surface. Before doing this, the floor should be thoroughly vacuumed. There are various mixtures on sale today for tinting; the shade is selected depending on the effect you want to achieve. The parquet can be only slightly darkened or emphasize the natural structure of the board.

The mixtures are very easy to apply. This may be one or more layers. It all depends on what the tint is used for. After application, it is necessary for the mixture to dry completely, after which you can begin finishing, i.e. varnishing parquet. Before using the varnish, the floor must be vacuumed again, since even the smallest traces of dust will negatively affect the quality.

The glossy composition looks beautiful, but semi-matte, matte varnishes can also be used. Brushes or rollers are used for application. Before you start cooking, you need to pay attention to the instructions provided by the manufacturer; they are located on the packaging. The varnish is applied in 3 layers, each of which must dry completely. Fewer layers should not be used. If there are more of them, the coating will acquire a more pronounced structure and depth. Drying time is about a day for each layer.

Parquet is a stylish and elegant covering that can completely transform any room. The parquet itself may be different, but it is quite possible to lay it with your own hands, following the installation steps.

In this article I will tell you in detail about how parquet is laid using the most common methods today. This will allow beginners to perform high-quality installation of such a floor without the help of specialists.

Installation

There are quite a few ways to lay parquet, however, in any case, the installation procedure is as follows:

Preparing the base

The main requirement for the base is its smooth surface..

If the floor is uneven, then before laying the parquet, it is necessary to level it in one of the following ways:

• pouring screed - this method should be used if the floor is concrete and has serious unevenness;

• pouring a self-leveling mixture - this method is suitable for leveling a concrete base with small differences, as well as for old concrete screeds;

• using plywood sheets or OSB boards - this option is the most versatile because it is suitable for leveling both concrete and wooden bases. As a rule, sheets of plywood are laid on joists or special adjustable racks. If the base is relatively flat, the sheets can be glued to it, as shown in the photo above.

You can learn more about leveling the floor using all these methods from other articles on our portal.

If the parquet will be glued to the floor, then in addition to leveling the base, it also needs to be treated with a primer. The composition should be applied in a thin layer using paint roller. To achieve the best effect, prime twice.

Since parquet is very sensitive to moisture, you can begin laying it only after all wet work in the room has been completed. In this case, the humidity of the floor should not exceed 5 percent, and the humidity of the walls should not exceed 6 percent. The air humidity in the room should be 35-60 percent.

Laying parquet boards without (or in another floating way) is reminiscent of installing laminate flooring.

This work is quite simple and quick, the only thing you need to follow is a certain sequence:

1. The parquet board should be folded in the room where you plan to cover the floor with it and left for several days. This will allow the material to “adapt” to the indoor microclimate;

1. then the floor must be covered with underlay. For these purposes, you can use foamed polyethylene, cork or other suitable material.
   If the floor humidity is high, for example, the apartment is located on the first floor, waterproofing must be laid under the substrate;

1. Start laying from the corner, taking into account that the board should be located along the direction of the light falling from the window. At the same time, step back 1-1.5 cm from the walls.
   To maintain this gap, pegs should be installed between the board and the wall. Subsequently, the gap will be hidden;
2. We connect the next board into a lock with the previous one. To do this, the tenon of one panel should be inserted into the groove of the other at a slight angle, as can be seen in the photo above. To ensure a tight connection, the board should be hammered through a wooden block;
3. The entire first row is laid in this way. The last board in the row is cut to length so that the necessary gap is formed between it and the wall;

1. Start laying the second row with the remaining parquet board trim. Connect it into a lock with the board of the first row. For a tight fit, hammer it through a block with a hammer;
2. According to this principle, the entire floor is covered with parquet boards. The only thing is that to lay the last row, you should cut the board to width;
3. To complete the work, you need to remove the pegs and install the baseboards.

Before laying the boards using the floating method, it is advisable to measure how many of them will fit across the width of the room. This will allow you to adjust their position, reducing or increasing the gap within reasonable limits. In some cases, it makes sense to cut the first and last row to the width so that the covering looks symmetrical.

This completes the installation. Since the parquet boards fit tightly together and are varnished, no further finishing of this floor covering is required.

Laying parquet boards without glue

The technology of laying boards with glue resembles “floating installation”, however, there are several nuances:

• the boards are laid directly on the floor without a backing. If it is necessary to waterproof a concrete floor, a screed should be poured over the waterproofing or sheets of plywood should be laid;
• before laying the board, glue is applied to the floor and then leveled with a notched trowel;

• After laying, the board must be pressed evenly to the floor. Additionally, the boards can be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are installed flush.

Many beginners are interested in what is the best way to “plant” parquet? In fact, you don’t need to invent anything, since there is a special parquet glue. It copes with the task perfectly, regardless of what base the boards are glued to - concrete or plywood.

Otherwise, the work is performed in the same way as when installing the coating using the floating method.

Laying parquet in a herringbone pattern

The peculiarity of laying block parquet is that the dies are much smaller in size. On the one hand, this allows you to lay out various patterns on the floor, but on the other hand, it complicates the work.

If you decide to lay out a complex design from dies, it is advisable to first draw it on paper. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the exact dimensions of the dies and the room. This will make it easier further work and will allow you to correct its position.

As an example, let's look at how block parquet is laid in the simplest and at the same time widespread way - herringbone:

1. First of all, you need to find the center of the room. To do this, beat diagonals on the floor. The point of their intersection will be the center of the room;
2. then you need to stretch the thread along the room so that it intersects the center. The thread should be positioned strictly parallel to the walls;

1. Next you need to connect two planks at an angle of 90 degrees;
2. Apply glue to the area in the center of the room and level it with a notched trowel;
3. Now you need to lay the part correctly - rotate it relative to the thread by 45 degrees. As a result, the top of the corner and the inner corner should be located strictly under the thread.
   In this position, press the part to the floor so that the glue comes out;
4. then connect the second two parts of the Christmas tree, but place the dies in reverse, i.e. if in the first part the end of the left die was connected to the edge of the right die, now the end of the right die must be connected to the edge of the left die. The photo below clearly shows how the dies are joined;

1. Using this principle, lay the herringbone from one wall to the other. During the installation process, pay attention to the position of the row so that it does not move to the side. A taut thread will help control it;
2. near the walls, the dies need to be cut at 45 degrees;
3. Next, the parquet is laid to the left and right of the resulting “herringbone”. Simply apply glue to the floor and tightly connect the tiles to each other.

After laying block parquet, you need to stop all work for at least a week until the glue completely hardens.

Finishing

Upon completion of laying the parquet, you can begin sanding and further finishing. This will make the surface perfectly flat and smooth, as well as protect the wood from negative environmental influences.

It must be said that sanding is especially necessary in cases where the parquet does not have tongues, i.e. The dies are not connected into a lock.

Instructions for finishing parquet look like this:

1. work begins with the so-called rough sanding using sandpaper with a coarse abrasive. To do this, you can use a grinder or a special grinding machine. At this stage, the most serious irregularities are removed;
2. then it is advisable to fill the joints of the dies with wood putty. To do this, apply the putty to the floor surface, and then “stretch” it with a spatula. As a result, only the seams between the dies will be filled;

1. after the putty has hardened, you need to finish sanding the wooden floor using sandpaper with a fine abrasive;
2. then the surface must be cleaned of dust. To do this, you can use a damp cloth or vacuum cleaner;
3. Now the floor needs to be coated with wood primer. To work with the primer, use a paint roller.
   Let me remind you that the primer is applied in two layers. Moreover, it is possible to cover the surface with the top layer of primer only after the bottom layer has dried;

1. The final stage is the application of varnish. For these purposes, it is best to use a special parquet varnish.
   Its price starts from 150-200 rubles per liter, however, if you want the coating to last as long as possible, use a more expensive varnish. For example, a 10 liter bucket of Feidal varnish costs about 9,000 rubles.

Apply the varnish to the surface using a paint roller, trying to distribute it in an even, thin layer. After the surface has completely dried, a second layer is applied.

In total, from three to seven layers can be applied to the parquet. The more varnish, the deeper the drawing appears. The only thing, After applying each layer of coating, wait until it dries completely.

Instead of varnish, you can also use wax or special oil-based impregnations.

While the varnish is drying, it is necessary to exclude a draft in the room. Therefore, close all windows and doors. If there is an air conditioner, it must be turned off.

Here, perhaps, is all the information on how to install parquet with your own hands.

Conclusion

Laying parquet using any of the described methods is a fairly simple and even exciting job. The only thing is that in order not to spoil the material and waste time, it is necessary to correctly carry out the preparatory work that I described above.

You can clearly see the installation of parquet from the video in this article. If you have any questions on this topic, contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Even the highest quality and most beautiful material can be ruined by poor editing - this is the bitter truth of life. Although you pay almost the same price as for a second purchase, construction team Not everyone strives: is laying parquet boards really that difficult? Not at all - the main thing is to know the important nuances and do everything step by step. And how exactly – we’ll figure it out now.

If after watching you still have questions, read on.

Laying technology: step by step

Let's say right away: laying parquet boards is not laying parquet or laying laminate. There really are some subtleties and nuances here.

Stage I. We purchase quality material

Today, more than a hundred types of wood are used to make parquet boards, and the initial quality is completely different. Therefore, we will give you valuable advice: purchase parquet boards only from those companies that themselves carry out such repair work. They will not order material from manufacturers that then does not fit together and creates a lot of problems. Such is the subtlety. As for the type of parquet board, the most popular today is three-layer. From the name you already guessed that it really has three layers: top, also called front, middle and bottom:

• The top working layer has a thickness from 1 mm to 6 mm (the thicker one will always withstand more grinding than the thinner one). This layer must be coated with varnish or special oil.
• Medium usually consists of short plates coniferous, or less often - from special moisture-resistant plywood. It is in the middle layer that all the connecting elements for adhesion of parquet boards are usually located.
• The bottom layer is already made of pine or spruce plywood 2 mm thick. The main task of the bottom layer is to prevent the parquet board from bending or deforming.

If you are going to lay a parquet board so that it resembles a massive one, then take a material with a solid face layer. The planks of such a parquet board can be glued in the form of “herringbones”, “braid”, “squares” or “deck”. But the most durable is considered to be the locking connection of the Swedish parquet board - the company Khars. The manufacturer claims that such a connection can withstand up to one and a half tons of tearing.

Stage II. Preparing the base for installation

The most important thing in this matter is to properly prepare the base for the board. So, according to unverified data, up to 90% of subsequent problems with appearance It is the quality of the subfloor that causes problems with laid parquet, and not the defect of the material itself. So, what is still permissible:

• 1-3 mm difference per linear meter
• humidity up to 2-3%. To check this value, use a modern moisture meter.

If the base is clearly not level and even has bulges, use special leveling compounds (only based on dry mixtures). Carefully inspect the old screed and work on peeling areas, defects and dirt. If the humidity value turns out to be higher than permissible, then lay a vapor barrier film overlapping on the floor, then sealing the joints with construction tape, or apply a special primer.

Experts recommend laying parquet boards at a humidity of 40-60% and a temperature of 20-25°C. Note that parquet boards behave more stable compared to solid wood: less responsive to changes in temperature and humidity, more resistant to static and dynamic loads.

Stage III. We put a special backing

To lay parquet boards in this way, you definitely need a backing that will separate the boards unprotected by glue from the base. It will immediately perform several important functions:

• It will even out small unevenness and defects in the base.
• Will serve as additional waterproofing.
• It will make the parquet floor even warmer.
• It will become a useful shock-absorbing layer, valuable while walking.

And finally, the underlay performs another valuable function that is rarely mentioned: it prevents the parquet board from sliding along the base in case of temperature changes. After all, screed or plaster has its own expansion temperature, and it differs significantly from the same parameter for the coating. This is the danger of not having a backing on the screed: literally a year after such movements invisible to the eye, accumulated cement or gypsum dust begins to seep through the cracks.

As a substrate you can use foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, sheet cork or felt cardboard. This is made from materials that have been known for a long time. But today professional ones are already gaining popularity. Here is a master class on installation on just such a base:

Parquet boards are also often laid on. After all, this natural and environmentally friendly material also has excellent noise insulation. And the technology for gluing such a substrate is extremely simple - just like with wallpaper: polyurethane glue is applied to a clean, dust-free surface and the cork is rolled with a roller. After this, you can immediately lay the boards. However, during such work, do not overdo it with glue - otherwise the cork will warp and swell with bubbles.

Stage IV. Getting ready for installation

When laying a parquet board on an old wooden floor, be sure to measure its humidity - this material is hygroscopic. You can direct the parquet boards in any way you like, but more often they are oriented along the length of the room for the sake of the organicity of the entire interior design. Although designers themselves often use floor texture to visually expand or lengthen the space. If the room is perfectly square, lay it in the direction of the light. You can even do it diagonally - however, there will be a lot of waste later.

Advice: if in a box with parquet boards you find specimens with defects or uneven coloring, leave them for trimming.

Stage V. Learning to connect boards

Different manufacturers produce their own parquet boards and give preference to a certain type of fastening:

1. By insertion method;
2. Lock connection, also called “click”;
3. Using fixing brackets or tightening straps.

The most convenient, of course, is a locking connection. The grooves and insert ridges are joined in this case without any other means - you just need to insert the ridge of the board at an angle into the groove of the other, and smoothly lower the first board to a horizontal position. After that, a couple of light blows are enough, and that's it.

Here are the main advantages of this method:

• Quick installation;
• There is no need for additional equipment or facilities;
• Wood has room for thermal expansion.

If in some place in the room you cannot lift the board for joining, then simply use a hammer with a block. Yes, this will require considerable precision and accuracy. Tip: when joining the covering to the door frame, start laying with the board placed under the jamb.

The insertion method, of course, is inferior to the previous one: with this installation you constantly have to use a block and a hammer, and replacing damaged boards in the future will take a lot of time. But it is easier to place such boards near heating systems and door frames, and the grooves and insert ridges are less likely to be defective.

But laying parquet boards using staples or a belt fastening system is more used for parquet boards that have a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. The boards themselves still need to be glued together, and it will be difficult to disassemble the floor in the future.

Stage VI. Laying parquet boards

So, parquet boards are laid today mainly in two ways: glue and floating. Glue The adhesive method involves fixing the boards to the base by gluing. This is how they are placed on a cement-sand or concrete floor, on a gypsum screed and leveling compound. If you choose this method, be sure to pay attention to the recommendation of the board manufacturer himself - what requirements he puts forward. All this can be found in the attached instructions. Here's how to lay parquet boards using the glue method:

• Step 1. Prepare the base: check for evenness, completely remove dust and treat with a synthetic primer (water-based is undesirable). In total, you should need a little more than a kilogram per square meter (it all depends on the screed and the quality of the primer itself).
• Step 2. Lay out the parquet boards from the first two boxes in the order in which you will install them. Apply glue.
• Step 3. Place the first board. It must be longer than it is wide. We leave an expansion gap of 6-12 mm between the wall and the floor.
• Step 4. We tap the second board to the first - through a special block. The boards need to be glued within ten minutes.
• Step 5. When you cut the last board, immediately use the remaining part to start the next row.
• Step 6. Insert small wedges or spacers into the expansion gap between the wall and the floor (you can see them in the photo).
• Step 7. After gluing a few rows, carefully check to see if there are any gaps.
• Step 8. When all work is completed, seal the seams with acrylic sealant or cork chips. As an option, you can also install a special metal threshold.

Tip: for convenience, use a square - only with it you can draw really straight lines.

The so-called “floating” method of laying parquet boards has many advantages. The most important thing is that important gaps remain for ventilation and invisible changes in the shape of the board when the temperature changes. As evidence: in winter, with good heating, you can notice small gaps between the boards - but in summer they are not visible. Moreover, the wider the board itself, the more noticeable. These are important processes! And, if you chose a parquet board with a high-quality lock, it will last much longer than a regular glued one. You can see the process in more detail in this photo instruction:

A “floating” parquet floor is laid in two ways: using the same glue and “locking”. In the first method, the boards are glued not to the base, but to each other, and in the second method, they are connected without glue. Lock connections also have subtypes: “turn and click” or “blow and click”. Let's say the speed of such assembly is really impressive - just a couple of hours.

You can install everything yourself:

• Step 1. Start from the left corner of the room with the so-called “catch side” facing the wall.
• Step 2. Take the board with both hands and, holding it at an angle, place it on the edge of the board of the first row. The edge board that will be adjacent to the walls should not have grooves - cut them off with a plane.
• Step 3. Start the second row with the remainder of the first row. But, if it turns out to be less than 30 cm, cut the new board in half.
• Step 4. When you lay the parquet board at the threshold, constantly check whether the doors open as easily as before.

If necessary, simply trim the bottom. In addition, there should always be at least a centimeter of distance between the door threshold and the wall. Another important thing is to tightly connect the boards together, use a wooden or rubber hammer, only tapping it lightly. Don't use the regular one - you'll damage the floor.

For fairly large areas, this installation method is not very suitable - the integrity of the entire coating is compromised. The floor will creak and even bend. Therefore, in spacious rooms and halls, parquet boards can only be glued. That's all!

Complex installation - warm floors and logs

If you are going to lay a parquet board on a warm floor, first of all, find a material on sale that would be suitable for the future temperature conditions. After all, not all species are sufficiently resistant to deformation, especially maple and beech. It is better to give preference to oak or walnut. But keep in mind that the maximum temperature for which any parquet board is designed is 26°C. And to understand whether the parquet board you have chosen is generally suitable for heated floors, look on its packaging for a special “suitable for heated floors” icon and instructions for such installation.

A salesperson or sales manager can help you find and consider all this. If there is nothing like this on the material, don’t take my word for it. If you have the opportunity to choose, then electric is better for such a coating - heating occurs evenly, and the wood expands more quietly. True, the floor level will have to be raised high.

If you still decide to install it, you will be pleased with the ease and speed of installation. You will place the cable on a heat-insulating material (preferably foil), and you can immediately attach a parquet board on top. Convenient to place under a parquet board. Also popular: minimal thickness, perfectly smooth coating and easy installation. But not many people like its radiation. In any case, laying a parquet board on such a base can only be done in a “floating” way - because the heat will cause the wood to slightly change its parameters. Below is the installation process in the photo.

If you are laying parquet boards on beams or joists, be sure to ensure that they are dry and as strong as possible. Miss this moment - over time, the floor will creak unpleasantly and even become deformed. It is also important that there is good ventilation under the joists and that water vapor does not accumulate. In general, these are all difficulties. The best way to lay parquet boards on joists is this:

• Step 1. Prepare the logs, check for moisture and integrity.
• Step 2. Lay a layer of durable plywood.
• Step 3. We lay the parquet board: using glue or on a cork, which will help to slightly relieve the static load on the logs themselves (prevention of squeaking).

Less commonly, but this method is also practiced: the parquet board is attached directly to the joists themselves using staples or nails. Then the logs should go in increments of 60 cm, and take the parquet board itself thick enough.

And finally, we’ll tell you about a newer technology for preparing the base for laying boards - this is. Minimum time and costs: special logs on plastic bases are simply used, which not only raise the floor a little, but also allow the necessary communications to be installed underneath it. Thermal insulation is, of course, much better than a conventional concrete base. Feel free to experiment!