Drill attachment
TO category:
Metal drilling
Fastening of drills, reamers, countersinks and countersinks on drilling machines, depending on the shape of the shank, is carried out in three ways: directly in the conical bore of the spindle, in transitional tapered bushings, in the drill chuck.
Fixing of the tool directly in the conical bore of the spindle. Conical shanks of drills, reamers, countersinks, etc., as well as conical holes in the spindles of drilling and other machines, are made according to the Morse system. Morse cones are numbered 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; each number corresponds to a certain size of the cone. The numbers of adapter bushings are selected according to the size of the cones of the cutting tools. In the tapered bore of the spindle, the tapered shank is held by the force of friction that occurs between the tapered surfaces. The foot of the tail enters the groove of the spindle and protects the shank from turning.
The tool is fastened through transitional tapered bushings in cases where the tool shank taper is smaller than the spindle bore taper. Transitional conical bushings (Fig. 220, b) are short and long. On fig. 220, in shows the attachment of the tool with the help of an adapter sleeve. The sleeve with the drill is inserted into the hole of the machine spindle.
Innovators Yu. M. Orlov and Yu. V. Kozlovsky proposed and manufactured adapter bushings from spring wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm (Fig. 220, d). The wire is wound on a special mandrel, then the outer surface is ground on a cylindrical grinding machine. From the upper side, a plug is inserted into the sleeve, which serves to punch out the tool. The spring bushing is lighter and cheaper to manufacture than standard bushings. It does not rotate, which prevents scuffing. The sleeve is used on drilling and turning machines.
Rice. 1. Tool mounting: a - directly in the machine spindle, b - adapter sleeves, c - with the help of an adapter sleeve, d - adapter sleeve made of clamping wire
Rice. 2. Tool installation: a - wedge, b - safe wedge (with spring)
Removing the tool from the conical hole of the machine spindle is carried out using a wedge (Fig. 2, a) through the slot. On fig. 2b shows a safety wedge with a spring applied without a hammer.
The wedge for removing drills or adapter bushings from the spindle of the drilling machine of the innovator B. M. Gusev consists of a massive hollow handle, inside which there is a movable striker with a wedge spring-loaded by a spring.
To remove the drill or adapter sleeve from the spindle, the wedge of the tool is inserted into the groove of the spindle, and the handle is sharply moved. In this case, the spring is compressed and the bottom of the handle hits the striker of the wedge.
The force required to compress the spring is negligible, since it is only intended to move the handle to its original position.
Fastening drills in chucks. Drills with a cylindrical shank are mounted in drill chucks, the main types of which are listed below.
On fig. 3 shows a three-jaw drill chuck in which the tools are secured with a key. Inside the chuck body (Fig. 3) there are three cams obliquely, having a thread connecting them with a nut. The clip is rotated by a special key inserted into the hole in the cartridge body. When the cage is rotated clockwise, the nut also rotates. The clamping jaws, descending, gradually converge and clamp the cylindrical shank of the drill or other tool. When the holder rotates in the opposite direction, the cams, rising up, diverge and release the clamped tool.
On fig. 4, a, b shows a self-centering three-jaw chuck for fixing drills with a diameter of 2 to 12 mm with a tapered shank. A bushing with an external thread is screwed onto the threaded part of the shank, onto which the chuck body having an internal cone is screwed. When the body is rotated clockwise, three cams pressed against it by springs converge and clamp the drill.
The 3-jaw chuck with slanted jaws provides a more precise and stable drill clamping. The clip is firmly mounted on a nut, on the inner cone of which there is a thread, and on the end there are conical teeth. In the grooves of the chuck body there are three obliquely located cams, on the outer sides of them there are also threads, which are connected to the thread of the nut. When turning the holder with a special key, which has conical teeth at the end and is inserted into the hole, the cams converge or diverge, clamping or releasing the drill.
Factories produce three sizes of cartridges with inclined jaws: PS-6, PS-9, PS-15 (the number in the brand indicates the largest diameter of the drill clamped by the chuck).
The collet chuck is used for clamping small diameter drills with a cylindrical shank in drilling machines. Collet chucks provide reliable, precise clamping of the tool. The body of the collet chuck has a shank for fixing in the cone of the machine spindle and a threaded part, on which a nut 6 is screwed, having flats for a wrench on the side. The clamping collet is mounted on a cone. When screwing the nut onto the threaded part, the collet is compressed and secures the drill shank.
Quick change ammo. When machining parts that need to be sequentially drilled, countersinked, reamed, threaded, etc., it is often necessary to change the cutting tool, which takes a lot of time. Quick-change chucks are used to reduce tool change time. Known quick-change cartridges with leading balls and leash. On fig. 226, 6 shows a quick-change chuck with lead balls, used for light work. Structurally, it is simple and allows changing the tool without stopping the machine spindle. The chuck body is fixed with a shank in the machine spindle. In the cylindrical hole of the body there is a replaceable sleeve with a socket for the tool. The rotational movement from the body of the cartridge to the sleeve is transmitted by two balls located in the transverse sockets of the body. To replace the sleeve with the cutting tool, stop the rotation of the cage, taking it by the corrugated surface, and lift the cage up until it stops against the spring ring embedded in the housing groove. The movement of the clip down is limited by the second spring ring.
Rice. Fig. 2. Movement of the tool during drilling (a), cutting elements (b), graph for selecting the rotational speed of the drill according to the given cutting speed y and diameter D (c)
Rice. 3. Drill chuck for fixing drills with a cylindrical shank: a, b - chuck, c - fastening
Rice. 4. Three-jaw self-centering chuck: a - device, b - installation
Rice. 5. Three-jaw chuck with inclined jaws
Drilling process
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2.5 current ... So they are pretty cheap ..
On the "flea" there are any keys to drills.
In such emergency cases, I simply select a drill of the required diameter and insert it into the hole in the chuck instead of a key.
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EAV-49018945
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EAV-64028690
d2p7umsbsj
Chinese vykiduhi are sharpened mainly for relatively new keys that can be disassembled (removable key sting) and the default factory signaling / central key fob. There, everything is removed / removed from the case, inserted into the blank of the blowout and that's it. There are also factory key fobs and non-separable keys. In these, there is already a sting on the blank, which must be sharpened in the workshop under your key.
But people do not give up and sawing under the old keys and left key rings. Under my car, for example, there is neither an original miscarriage, nor Chinese handicrafts. I had to buy a blank for a Volkswagen, shove my native key sting in there and grind and solder the board from the signaling key fob and the blank itself so that everything fits. But it seems to work:
You also need to remember that some keys have an immobilizer chip like this: http://best-vinil.ru/upload/image/_(3).gif
And blanks under it should be a place.
You need to VAG-COM to attribute
35 - 10 - 00 - erase all keys
35 - 10 - 21 - X
where X is the number of keys to be adapted
after that you press any button on the key fob \ ah and you're done =)
Yes, sucks that you are not from depils, go to the diagnostician they will attribute it, but there are still ways easier how to attribute it, but I don’t know them, they are usually described in the manuals!
You need to remove the bullshit that tells you this.
http://irc.lv/blogs?id=38185
The best option, from safe mode:
cmd /c "del %windir%\system32\wgatray.exe"
cmd /c "del %windir%\system32\WGAlogon.dll"
and re-search for these:
Delete WgaTray.exe from c:\windowss\system32
Delete WgaLogon.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete LegitCheckControl.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete spmsg.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete WgaTray.exe from c:\windows\system32\dllcache
Do a disk search for "wgatray" and delete
Depends on the castle. If the key is double-bearded, or there is a four-sided one, then you need to change the entire lock, I think it will cost you 30-50 latikov .. Plus the work of opening the door.
If it’s just larval, then there are many times fewer problems with it. Any master of opening locks will remove the larva for you, it’s just that they can usually be removed only if you have a key or its analogue, i.e.
How to replace a drill in a Makita drill
having worked as a master key. And you can install it yourself. New larvae 5-15 hp, depending on the sophistication and burglar resistance.
In any case, it is better to consult with specialists in opening doors.
Lats 30-40. A friend does this. If you want, I can give you his phone number. If necessary, write in a personal.
no. they can't do that
Maybe. Go to an authorized audio center. But it will cost money, since all their services are very expensive.
How to change the drill in the SDS-plus chuck
Anyone who has never used a puncher with an SDS-plus cartridge can be said to have lost quite a bit. Although, this is from what point of view.
The convenience of changing the processing tool, the reliability of fastening, and indeed, the development of the world famous manufacturer Bosch. Here's what you can miss. But everyone decides for himself.
The need to describe how you can replace the tool in the cartridge with another, I was prompted by the fact that there is a significant part of people who are looking on the Internet for the answer to the question voiced above in the draft topic.
The test subject will be a rental (but still in good condition) Bosch GBH 4 DFE rotary hammer.
An example of a tool would be a 6 mm drill. Let's replace it with a spatula.
How to remove the drill from the SDS-plus chuck
So, first of all, in order to pull the tool out of the chuck, you need to press the chuck ring towards the back of the punch, as shown in the photo below.
Nothing complicated. Immediately after this procedure, you can remove the drill (just pull in the direction from the punch). Be careful: after working with a drill, it can remain hot for a long time. And do not try to cool it with water - manufacturers do not approve of such amateur performance.
Wipe the removed tool (dust can stick to the used lubricant). You can attach it inside the case.
Now the most responsible begins.
How to insert a paddle into the SDS-plus chuck
Before inserting a shovel (or drill - any tool can be used instead of a shovel) into the chuck, wipe the chuck and shovel with a cloth to remove old grease with dust. (The cleaner the tool is, the longer it will last.)
Check for damage to the rubber parts of the chuck. If damaged, dust can enter. The result is premature tool failure and repair.
Be sure to apply lubricant to the back of the paddle as shown.
If this is not done, the wear of the punch will be incredibly fast.
Insert the spatula into the cartridge until a characteristic click is heard. Try to remove it by simply pulling in the direction away from the punch. If it does not come out, then you did everything right.
You can do all of the above yourself by renting a perforator in our company.
We wish you pleasant work!
Master's response:
A puncher is an indispensable thing in the house of any master who tries to do all the repair work with his own hands. If you consider yourself one of those, and have already become the happy owner of a new tool, first learn how to properly prepare it for work, that is, for drilling wood, metal, tiles and other surfaces.
A serviceable tool should work instantly after you power it from the outlet, set the drilling mode without a fight to the extreme left position and press start. The absence of jerks and failures in the operation of the motor speaks of excellent work.
The rotary hammer must be supplied with a chuck that is perfectly compatible with the tool.
To optimize the workflow and reduce wear of parts, a special lubricant will help, which must be squeezed out of the tube and poured into the hole intended for the drill.
How to insert a drill into a drill or puncher?
Now rest the tool with the handle on some hard surface, for example, the floor, and pull down the lower share of the perforator head.
So you can insert the chuck and return the head of the power tool to its original position.
Insert the drill of the required size into the chuck and, turning the top of the chuck clockwise, ensure that it reaches the stop. Clamp the drill and check if it dangles or not.
In the case of a “walking” drill, you need to tighten the chuck even more. Connect the tool to the mains and in a row press the start button several times in short jerks - so the lubricant will disperse well in the mechanism.
If you need a puncher for the pleasure of pride, when you just need to make repairs in the house at a time, buy an inexpensive cartridge. But spend the saved money on an expensive drill that will last a long time and work with it will be much more pleasant than with a cheap Chinese drill.
And finally. If health is dear to you, then do not even think about touching the rotating elements of the perforator. You can easily injure yourself if you install a drill and a chuck with the plug plugged into the outlet!
How to insert a drill into a puncher
Today, the puncher is one of the most popular tools, so it's hard to underestimate its usefulness. The tool is used by both experienced professionals and ordinary amateurs. In many situations, without this device it would be difficult. In this article, we look at how to insert a drill into a puncher so as not to damage it. Mastering the ability to correctly use the tool will help bring your work to perfection. To insert a drill into a tool, you will need a hammer drill, drill bit, chuck and lubricant.
Before installing a drill in a puncher, first of all, you should figure it out. Today, it is difficult to complete repairs or construction without resorting to the help of a puncher. When drilling is needed, this tool is simply indispensable. The hammer drill is used when working with concrete and brick, it is also often used for working on metal or wood as a conventional drill.
Many features make this tool versatile – rotary with impact, impact without rotation, rotation without impact, drilling in concrete, jackhammer function, drilling in wood and metal, and many others. You need to know that there are many types of perforator. The principle of using the tool is the same, but if you need to drill a wide and deep hole, it is better to use a larger and more powerful device.
To work with this tool, you need various equipment - drills, concrete drills for a perforator, chisels, shovels and crowns. Drills and crowns are used when drilling holes, drills are designed for concrete and stone, chisels are used for grooving, and blades are needed for knocking down plaster or old tiles. All rotary hammer bits are shaped like a shank, thanks to which fast and reliable fixation in the chuck is carried out.
With a hammer drill, special angle nozzles, a dust removal system, agitators for mixing mortars or paints, chisels and various types of nozzles (sharpening drills, a water pump, a nozzle for cutting metal in sheets) can also be used. Before starting any work with a hammer drill, make sure that it is properly equipped and suitable for future work. A tool that is too small may not be able to handle a large load.
When working with a hammer drill, be sure to remember about protective equipment. These items include goggles, earplugs and gloves. You should also work in special clothing, excluding everything that can accidentally wrap around a drill or drill. When working with the device, do not put pressure on it, this may end badly.
Try not to idle the tool for too long, this is allowed only before checking it. When working with porous material, use hammerless drilling so that it does not crumble. If you have to work with solid material, it is better to use a cutting oil. If the job involves the use of a long drill, to save money, you can start working with a shorter metal drill for a hammer drill, but of the same diameter.
Lubricate the drill shanks every 180-200 holes. Pay attention to the heating of the instrument, with strong heating it is better to take a break. Alternate periods of work and rest of the tool. As a rule, a break is taken every thirty minutes. Its duration is about ten minutes.
If, when working with a puncher, you take into account all the rules and pay attention to the subtleties, the work will be done competently and easily. Always follow construction practices and remember to periodically check the tool for faults.
Before you start replacing the drill or working with the tool, you need to make sure that it is working. To do this, insert the plug into the socket, and put the puncher in the drilling mode without a fight (left extreme position). After that, the start button is pressed. If you hear a smooth sound, devoid of failures and jerks, you can get to work.
Before starting work, be sure to check walls or other surfaces for water supply or electrical wiring. The handle must be securely fastened and not dangle during operation. A timely inspection or inspection will help to avoid injury and damage to the device.
Please note: never touch the rotating parts of the tool, otherwise it can lead to a sad outcome. For the same reason, it is necessary to install a drilling chuck and a drill for a bosh hammer drill only with the plug unplugged from the outlet.
You need to purchase a special chuck that fits your rotary hammer model. If you cannot choose or do not know which cartridge is needed, it is best to take a tool with you and test compatibility on the spot.
Today, rotary hammers are equipped with two types of cartridges - keyless and key. The key option is traditional, a wood drill for a puncher is clamped in it with a special key. In this case, the fastening is reliable, but less convenient than that of a keyless chuck. The keyless chuck easily clamps the drill without the aid of any tools. Just choose the one that suits you best and follow the instructions.
Today, drills are made from carbon, high-speed and alloy steels. If you have to work with strong materials, the drill can be equipped with heavy-duty hardy soldering. Drills are feather, centering, with straight kanaks and spiral (for deep drilling).
You can also purchase a drill designed for wood, metal, stone, concrete, glass, ceramic, diamond or a universal option. Before you fix the drill in the puncher, you need to decide on the type if you want the work to be done correctly. The color of the drill indicates the type of end result.
If the drill is black, it means that it has been processed with superheated steam, but this does not affect the quality, despite the popular belief that black drills are stronger.
If the drill has a brown or slightly golden hue, most likely it has been tempered to relieve internal stresses. Drills that are treated with titanium nitrile have a bright golden color, such options are the most expensive and durable.
As a rule, good companies indicate on the boxes of the drill its characteristics, such as the steel grade and the material with which it can be worked. If the drill becomes very hot during operation, it means that it has become dull or has been sharpened incorrectly.
If an old drill is inserted into the punch, it must be carefully replaced. Before pulling out any nozzle, be sure to pay attention to the type of its cartridge. Remember about the keyless and key chuck. The key is more reliable, especially when working in shock mode. This cartridge is made of metal, so it is less susceptible to mechanical damage.
Before pulling the drill out of the drill with a two-sleeve keyless chuck, be sure to switch the device to reverse mode. After that, it is necessary to fix the lower clutch with one hand, and unscrew the upper one with the other. In a single-sleeve chuck, the nozzle can be replaced with only one hand, since it is placed on rotary hammers with an automatic shaft lock.
There are times when the working tool gets stuck in the chuck and does not want to be pulled out. Here you need to know the following. To carefully pull out the nozzle, it is necessary to clamp its free part in a vise and tap with a hammer on the jaws of the cartridge through a wooden adapter until the tail of the drill comes out of the keyless chuck. If the drill is stuck firmly in the punch, and this does not help, you can remove the cartridge and place it in gasoline, and drop a little car oil into the key cartridge.
There are also often situations when the drill gets stuck in the wall during construction concrete work.
Versatile power drill
This occurs during clamping between concrete and reinforcement. It is necessary to stop pulling the trigger and loosen the hammer drill, as it may break. To begin, remove the bit from the chuck, replace it, and start gently pounding the concrete around the stuck bit. Avoid hitting a stuck drill. After this procedure, the stuck drill can be removed without difficulty.
For proper operation of the tool, it is necessary to lubricate the perforator with a special lubricant. It is better to purchase a branded product that is resistant to water and prevents moisture from entering metal surfaces, which prevents corrosion.
To do this, open a tube of grease and squeeze a little into the hole into which the nozzles are inserted. Next, the tool is placed on the floor or on another hard comfortable surface with a handle, after which the back of the head of the puncher is pulled down, the chuck is inserted, and the lower part of the head returns to its previous position.
After the above steps, you can insert the drill for the Makita hammer drill into the chuck. Then, by rotating the upper part of the chuck clockwise until it stops, it is necessary to clamp the drill. After that, be sure to check whether it is firmly fixed.
If you find that the drill is dangling, try tightening the chuck harder. After the final fixing and compliance with all actions, you can turn on the puncher in the network. Press the start button several times so that the grease can disperse well into parts.
Before starting work, you need to make sure what mode the tool is in. It should idle for one minute. Be sure to check the operation of the gearbox so that it does not emit vibrations, unnecessary noise or sounds. There should also be no smoke or smell resembling burning insulation.
To drill, you need to install the drill in the place where the hole will be made and only then press the power button. When working with a puncher, do not press too hard on the surface. Modern rotary hammers have an on/off feature. This property of the tool is able to provide the main work with a decrease in speed. Thanks to this mode, the hole will be made in a precisely defined place and the drill will not go to the side.
When drilling metal or wood, do not turn on the impact mechanism mode, this can lead to damage to the device. There are rotary hammers that have an automatic shutdown mechanism when the wrong option is selected. During construction work for drilling concrete, you can use the shock mode. To free the hole from dust, it is necessary to periodically remove part of the drill and return it to its place.
How long a hammer drill will last depends on compliance with all the rules for its operation. When working with a material such as concrete, you should not save money on tool lubrication. If the tool fails, it must be taken to a service center. Even if it is not damaged, from time to time it is worth taking it to the masters for verification.
Please note that some malfunctions provoke injury, this is especially true for powerful rotary hammers with a strong impact. If the drill in the puncher is jammed badly, or you are not fully confident in your abilities, it is also better to seek help from qualified specialists!
To clean the tool from construction dust, you can use a vacuum cleaner. When using a perforator, it is worth remembering the rest mode, the device tends to heat up even at low speeds. Follow the instructions supplied with the device.
Given all of the above, we can draw certain conclusions that self-inserting a drill into a puncher is a very simple procedure. Also remember that according to the law, the puncher can only be used after seven in the morning and until eleven in the evening. Try to carry out repair processes on weekdays from nine in the morning and finish them before seven in the evening.
How to insert a drill into a puncher?
Press the head of the perforator back (the knob where the drill is actually inserted), insert the drill, you can turn it a bit until it falls deeper, release the head, it returns to its place.
How to correctly insert and pull out the drill in a hammer drill, screwdriver and drill
You can try, the drill is fixed and does not fall out. You can work. I hope you guess that special drills are used for the puncher, not the ones that are inserted into an ordinary drill and clamped with a chuck.
- Push the punch head down;
- Insert the drill until it stops;
- Release the punch head;
- Check the drill for secure fixation with the chuck.
Getting a drill is just as easy, read the next section: How to get a drill from a puncher?
It is advisable to pre-lubricate the drill shank with oil for drills (this will increase the service life of both the drill itself and the cartridge)
Hand tools have become very popular in recent years. One of the most popular is the perforator. It is used in any production and at home.
Proper use of this tool will not only extend its service life, but also save on consumables. Hammer drills are different from those used in drills, which means that their mounting method will be different. How to insert a drill into a puncher, consider below.
What is a perforator
With the widespread use of the perforator, construction and repair work has been greatly simplified. Indeed, in cases in which brick, asphalt is required, this device is indispensable. Wherever impact drilling is required. In addition, it is used to perform tasks specific to a drill, although a hammer drill chuck is different.
This tool has three standard features:
- drilling without impact;
- drilling with a special drill with a blow;
- punching holes with chisels, pikes or shovels.
Another difference between a hammer drill and a drill is that it has more power. It starts at 700 watts and goes up to 3 kW.
Used nozzles
The list of works performed by the perforator is large:
- drilling;
- cutting holes of large diameter;
- chiselling;
- gating.
To perform these tasks, various nozzles made of durable materials are used.
For in concrete or brick, there are drills made of high-strength steel with victorious tips. To fix them in the chuck, there are several types of shanks:
- SDS Plus. This variety is the most common. It is used for drills with a diameter of 4-26 mm.
- SDS max. Shanks of this type have a longer groove. They are used in heavy tools of high power. The diameter of these drills is over 26 mm. The length of such drills is from 25 cm to 1.2 m.
- SDS quick. This is a rare type of shank. They are used in Bosch rotary hammers. How to insert a drill with a similar shank into a regular tool? To do this, you need to change the cartridge.
On the tail section, all nozzles are identical. The working part is different depending on the function:
Cartridges used by the tool
How to insert a drill into a puncher? For quick installation of the nozzle and its change, the SDS cartridge was invented. This mechanism was developed in the 30s of the last century. To fix the drill in the device, simply insert it, turning it slightly, feel for the grooves and snap it into place. The SDS mechanism aligns the balls with the grooves in the shank and locks it securely. In order to remove the nozzle back, you need to push the cartridge towards the body of the perforator and pull out the drill. So that the shank easily enters the chuck, you need to lubricate it with graphite grease. This will also improve the sliding of the balls entering the grooves. As the lubricant dries, repeat the procedure.
Is it possible to insert a conventional drill bit into a hammer drill?
The drill of a conventional drill is different. There are no grooves, no recesses, no hooks on its shank. However, for drilling metal, you need just a simple one. How to insert a drill into a puncher in this case?
For this, a removable cartridge is used, which has a shank, like a conventional nozzle, and is inserted into the SDS mechanism. These cartridges come in two varieties:
Possible malfunctions of the cartridge and their elimination
A common cartridge malfunction is the inability to fix the nozzle. The inserted drill flies back during operation. There is a simple reason for this, and everyone can eliminate it on their own. To do this, you need to disassemble the cartridge:
- Remove the rubber boot by prying it off the end with a small flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the circlip with the same screwdriver.
- Remove the plastic boot.
After that, the whole mechanism becomes visible. Most often, such a malfunction is caused by wear of the steel ring that fixes the balls of the SDS mechanism. Constant shock loads wear out the walls of the ring, rendering it unusable.
To eliminate the cause, you need to replace the retaining ring with a new one. Then put everything back together in reverse order.
Chucks for simple drills are not designed for impact loads. What to do if it fails? First, determine the nature of the failure. If the key slips when tightened, then you just need to replace it. In the event of a malfunction of the internal mechanism, it is necessary to replace the cartridge itself on the shank. For this you should:
- Clamp the shank in a vise.
- Extend the collet mechanism to its maximum diameter.
- Unscrew the screw that will be inside. Attention: the screw has a non-standard left-hand thread. So, you need to unscrew it clockwise.
- Remove the cartridge from the shank and install a new one.
- Screw in the screw.
Before inserting the drill into the drill with a new cartridge, you should check its performance.
If the drill is stuck
It happens that during operation, a shank that is not lubricated in time leads to jamming. The locking mechanism is filled with drilling dust and the drill cannot be pulled out. What to do in this case? No need to panic or immediately run to the repair. Using will solve this problem. These products are available in aerosol cans and have a low consistency. Therefore, they operate in places that are difficult to access. To pull out the drill, it is necessary to inject the lubricant directly into the hole for the drill and leave the tool alone for 10-15 minutes. Then, with smooth, shaking movements, remove the drill.
It must be remembered that before inserting the drill into the punch, it is necessary to lubricate the shank. This will save the cartridge for years to come.
2.5 current ... So they are pretty cheap ..
On the "flea" there are any keys to drills.
In such emergency cases, I simply select a drill of the required diameter and insert it into the hole in the chuck instead of a key.
Antivirus NOD32
EAV-49018945
67nbnju2dx
Eset Smart Security
EAV-64160467
4xbvaeaenu
EAV-64028690
d2p7umsbsj
Chinese vykiduhi are sharpened mainly for relatively new keys that can be disassembled (removable key sting) and the default factory signaling / central key fob. There, everything is removed / removed from the case, inserted into the blank of the blowout and that's it. There are also factory key fobs and non-separable keys. In these, there is already a sting on the blank, which must be sharpened in the workshop under your key.
But people do not give up and sawing under the old keys and left key rings. Under my car, for example, there is neither an original miscarriage, nor Chinese handicrafts. I had to buy a blank for a Volkswagen, shove my native key sting in there and grind and solder the board from the signaling key fob and the blank itself, so that everything fit. But it seemed to work out:
You also need to remember that some keys have an immobilizer chip like this: http://best-vinil.ru/upload/image/_(3).gif
And blanks under it should be a place.
You need to VAG-COM to attribute
35 - 10 - 00 - erase all keys
35 - 10 - 21 - X
where X is the number of keys to be adapted
after that you press any button on the key fob \ ah and you're done =)
Yes, sucks that you are not from depils, go to the diagnostician they will attribute it, but there are still ways easier how to attribute it, but I don’t know them, they are usually described in the manuals!
You need to remove the bullshit that tells you this.
http://irc.lv/blogs?id=38185
The best option, from safe mode:
cmd /c "del %windir%\system32\wgatray.exe"
cmd /c "del %windir%\system32\WGAlogon.dll"
and re-search for these:
Delete WgaTray.exe from c:\windowss\system32
Delete WgaLogon.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete LegitCheckControl.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete spmsg.dll from c:\windowss\system32
Delete WgaTray.exe from c:\windows\system32\dllcache
Do a disk search for "wgatray" and delete
Depends on the castle. If the key is double-bearded, or there is a four-sided one, then you need to change the entire lock, I think it will cost you 30-50 latikov .. Plus the work of opening the door.
If it’s just larval, then there are many times fewer problems with it. Any master of opening locks will remove the larva for you, it’s just that they can usually be removed only if you have a key or its analogue, i.e. having worked as a master key. And you can install it yourself. New larvae 5-15 hp, depending on the sophistication and burglar resistance.
In any case, it is better to consult with specialists in opening doors.
Lats 30-40. A friend does this. If you want, I can give you his phone number. If necessary, write in a personal.
no. they can't do that
Maybe. Go to an authorized audio center. But it will cost money, since all their services are very expensive.
1 What is exercise and how to deal with it?
To date, drills are made of high-speed, alloy or carbon steels.
They are equipped with heavy duty strips for handling tough materials. According to the design features, they are divided into handle, center, flat grooves and helix (for deep penetration).
According to the processed material, they differ: wood, metal, stone and concrete, glass and ceramics, diamonds and universal.
Each of them is suitable for a specific type of work, it should be considered before inserting a drill into a drill.
In the case of further actions, situations arise when the drill head rotates on the drill, the leg is broken, overturned or stuck. In such cases, it needs to be pulled out, which is sometimes not so easy. We will try to perform the operation with the least losses.
2 How to get an exercise drill?
Before removing the drill from the drill, pay attention to the design of the cartridge.
There are two types of inserts: key and quick fix. Key entry is more reliable, especially if you're in strike mode. This cartridge is made of metal and therefore less sensitive to mechanical damage.
The disadvantage is that before you remove the drill from the drill, you have to release the clamping jaws of the cartridge with a special wrench.
Plastic windshield wipers are usually equipped with small drill bits.
Replacement is done manually. Quick locks are single-sided and double-sided versions. The replacement, of course, is different, but not essential. Before changing the drilling in the drill head with two speed cones, the tool must be switched in the opposite direction, fix the lower sleeve with one hand and unscrew the upper part with one hand.
The replacement nozzle in the cartridge with one hand is made with one hand, since it is installed only on a drilling machine with an automatic shaft.
3 Critical situation - a strange concussion
It happens that the working tool draws into the cartridge and does not want to go out.
The question arises: how to remove drilling from a drill? If you want to pull it out, it needs to be easily attached to the wedding. Then you have to press the hammer hammer on the wooden head over the cartridge plunger until the drill is working.
If that doesn't work, you should take the cartridge out of the drill and soak it in gasoline or shake it with liquid or WD-40 cleaning foam.
You need to lower the engine oil into the cartridge.
Sometimes during work, for example, with a reinforced concrete wall when drilling, the drilling closes. When you pull the trigger, the drill turns but nothing happens.
This happens when the drill goes deep into the wall and is anchored between the rebar and the concrete. In such cases, it is necessary to stop pulling the trigger or drilling with a drill.
This will not only break the exercise, but some will remain in the wall, as well as the failure of the entire instrument.
The first thing to remove from the cartridge. After that, another drill is inserted into the drill, and caution is pumped over the clamping element.
At the same time, you must avoid hitting the person who is stuck in the wall. After bouncing the pieces of concrete, you can easily pull it out with your hands.
The puncher before installing the drill must be checked for operability.
How to use a drill correctly
To perform such a check, the working mode of the rotary hammer is set to drilling without a fight. If, after pressing the start button of the device, you hear and feel that its engine runs smoothly and without jerks, then the hammer drill can be used for its intended purpose, after inserting a drill or drill into it.
To mount a drill with a cylindrical shank in a rotary hammer, use an adapter with a cam-type chuck
Before inserting the drill into the punch, it is necessary to treat the shank of the working tool with a special lubricant that will protect it from corrosion.
The procedure for installing a drill into a puncher is as follows.
- The back of the puncher is mounted on the floor or other hard surface.
- The movable part of the clamping device is pulled back.
- The tool is inserted into the puncher until it stops.
In this case, the drill or drill, which must be inserted into the punch, must be held vertically. If you neglect this requirement, you may encounter the fact that the tool will fly out or even break, and this may also lead to failure of the punch itself.
You should press until it clicks, then pull the drill, if it does not come out - everything is fine
Having removed the used tool from the puncher in order to replace it with another, it is advisable to immediately clean its shank from grease and construction dust.
In this case, the drill shank that you are about to insert must also be cleaned and pre-lubricated. The tool replaced in this way will not harm the clamping mechanism of the hammer and will last much longer.
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Lubrication extends the life of both the drill itself and the perforator.
But there are nuances:
If the drill is stuck in the wall during the drilling process, then it should be removed without removing the tool from its surface.
To do this, the drill must be removed from the puncher and inserted another, with which it is necessary to begin to destroy the wall around the drill stuck in it.
If the drill is not removed from the drill or puncher, then it must be clamped in a vice, and then with a hammer, using a wooden gasket, knock on the cams of the clamping mechanism. Oil can help in this matter, a few drops of which are poured into a key-type cartridge.
ist: Google.com
Is it possible to drill concrete with a screwdriver
Which screwdriver to choose for drilling concrete?
During many construction processes, there is a need to drill concrete. A tool that can cope with a similar task is a screwdriver.
Design and characteristics
Outwardly, as well as in mechanical action, a screwdriver resembles a drill.
The difference is low rotation speed / high scrolling moment. In addition, fixed speed indicators are installed on screwdrivers (on drills they are independently adjustable). Speed control is necessary for the safe and high-quality operation of the tool. The chuck stops moving when the screw is fully screwed in. Despite the stop of the cartridge, the engine is still in action.
A certain speed / mode of operation is calculated for a separate type of work.
There is a function of reverse, tightening, loosening screws (as well as nuts, screws, self-tapping screws, soft materials). Craftsmen use screwdrivers all the time.
In some cases (working with drywall, assembling the interior, creating a partition), the tool increases the speed and productivity of work several times.
Schematic diagram of a cordless screwdriver.
Screwdrivers are designed on the same principle. Design basis:
- pistol-shaped handle (for work with the leading hand);
- little weight;
- start key that starts / regulates rotation;
- power source - mains or battery (note that the battery is more massive and more expensive than the tool itself);
- capacity is limited by the total weight of the tool;
- time of continuous work - about 3 hours;
- spare battery available (depending on model).
Advantages
List of advantages of screwdrivers:
- autonomy (modern production provides for the absence of a network cable);
- light drilling of concrete (and other materials);
- a screwdriver can be used for household repairs / installation / assembly of furniture;
- adjustable drilling speed in a screwdriver;
- a large number of varieties for a specific type of work (impact screwdriver / cordless impact screwdriver, etc.).
Manufacturers
Makita BHP452
There are two types of drilling available:
Feature: battery charging is completed within 20 minutes.
The amount of braking/rotation is self-adjustable, depending on needs and goals. Built-in LED lamp.
Leading among screwdrivers in terms of speed and ease of switching modes.
Cordless impact driver.
Main differences:
- light weight;
- high performance;
- compactness;
- ergonomics;
- high torque;
- multifunctionality (can perform a certain list of works);
- autonomy.
Percussion instrument suitable for:
- drilling walls made of any material;
- installation / dismantling of building elements and structures.
As far as tool construction is concerned, Metabo Power has 2 speeds (soft/hard torque).
LED backlight, special belt clip, reverse mode, high work intensity. Charging can be carried out both mobile and autonomously.
DeWalt DCD985M2
This screwdriver features:
- powerful percussion mechanism (drilling holes in concrete 13/60 mm, in stone - 16 mm);
- 3-speed gearbox, the speed of which is adjustable by the consumer;
- for torque mode, you can choose 1 desired combination of 22;
- the speed block built into the tool gives additional control over the process;
- LED lighting;
- specially designed chuck to drill a variety of materials;
- functionality (closely related to technical characteristics);
- compatible with fasteners to drill metal/wood/stone/concrete.
Bosch Uneo
Cordless screwdriver capable of drilling masonry / making holes in concrete monolithic blocks / driving screws.
Tool feature:
- the ability to drill at a speed of 0.9 J;
- weight is 1 kg;
- battery charge speed - 3 hours;
- makes holes in concrete in a few seconds, the charge is enough for 70 screws;
- speed is self-adjusting;
- the cartridge can be replaced with any similar one (other brands can be used);
- 6-sided cartridge.
Work rules
The rules for working with concrete tools are not complicated and do not set a clear framework.
Remember safety precautions, do not expose yourself and your structure to danger.
Basic Rules:
- pre-charge the implement (be sure to observe the charging time limits indicated in the purchase instructions.
If you do not follow these rules, the tool can quickly become unusable);
- install the desired nozzle into the tool;
- click on it, setting the cartridge in motion;
- use the reverse to change the chuck or drill;
- try not to subject the tool to impacts, strong mechanical impact, this can spoil its quality characteristics;
- after use, wipe, clean and store in a dry place out of the reach of children.
Conclusion
After you have familiarized yourself with the purpose, rules of operation and the main types of this tool, you can safely start using it.
Remember that strict adherence to the instructions and the implementation of safety precautions will help extend the life of the tool and protect you personally. Store the implement in a special box that cannot be accessed by children.
Before buying, consult with the seller, indicate to him the purpose of your purchase. You will be selected the most optimal. and the desired model. Prices for products vary depending on the manufacturer / mechanical performance / composition. Under the right storage conditions/following the rules of operation, the tool will last for several years.
Pay attention to the terms of the warranty and possible repair of the warranty product.
If you do not have time to carry out construction work yourself, hire a construction team.
Can you drill with a screwdriver? - EcommerceMarket.ru
Manufacturers offer a variety of tools.
Almost everyone can choose a tool for their financial capabilities and technical needs. A screwdriver is increasingly found in the home workshop.
Therefore, the question arises, what else can be done with it. Today we understand whether it is possible to drill with a screwdriver?
Basic moments
Experts do not recommend working with concrete. Such a hard material may not even take a drill with good technical characteristics. But, if your model has an impact function, then you can try to master thin concrete, stone or brick.
How to pull a drill out of a drill?
As a rule, modern buildings are built from aerated concrete or silicate bricks. Such surfaces can be drilled with the most common model, which does not contain the impact function. The main thing is to use the right drill.
What can a screwdriver do without problems? If you plan to work with wood, plaster, metal or plywood, then you can safely get the tool. It will help not only tighten the screws, but also come in handy for drilling.
How to choose an instrument?
To safely use the device for drilling, you should choose it correctly.
What to pay attention to? If you want it to be always ready for work, then buy a network device or a rechargeable one, but with a spare battery.
The ability to drill different materials is affected by the speed of rotation. For example, for twisting, an indicator of 500 rpm is enough. For the drilling function, the speed must reach up to 1300 revolutions. It is also important to pay attention to the torque. If it is small, then such a screwdriver is only suitable for drilling wood.
Summing up, we can say with confidence that you can drill with a screwdriver. Modern models are able to cope with almost any surface.
Even with thin concrete or brick. If you are just picking up a new instrument model, then listen to our advice.
Can you drill concrete with a drill?
It is no secret that the first stage in any repair is the procurement stage, when materials are purchased and tools are prepared.
Depending on the nature of the work, completely different devices may be needed, but most often it is impossible to do without a drill or screwdriver. These tools are needed for drilling or drilling cylindrical holes in various objects, into which dowels, screws and other parts will then be placed. Today, manufacturers offer a lot of tools for such purposes, which differ not only in appearance, but also in the principle of operation.
Scope of impact drills
In fact, this tool is a kind of puncher, but has a smaller size and weight.
They are designed for drilling holes in very hard materials - concrete, brick, plastic and even metal, as well as for unscrewing and tightening screws.
Some impact drills are equipped with special elements for sanding, mixing paint and milling.
Choosing a quality impact drill is not difficult, but you need to build on some indicators. The first is the power of the tool, because the diameter of the hole that can be drilled depends on its value. For home repairs, tools with a power of 450 to 700 watts are suitable. The transmission of an impact drill can be made of plastic or metal.
The latter option is more expensive than plastic, but more durable.
The process of drilling with an impact drill must be carried out at low speed, and after it is completed, the drill cannot be removed using reverse drilling, as it may be damaged.
Features of the choice and use of a perforator
This tool is the most powerful, compared to other drilling fixtures.
Most often it is needed for drilling holes in hard concrete, ceilings and walls of structures. It is also indispensable when removing old plaster and tiles. There are cordless drills and those with a built-in battery.
The larger its capacity, the more the tool will work on a single charge.
The main criterion in choosing this tool is the torque indicator. The higher its value, the easier and faster it will be to drill a hole in solid concrete. At the time of drilling, the hammer should not be pressed and the engine modes should not be changed. It is better not to use it for chiselling, because this leads to rapid wear of the mechanisms.
Using drill drivers
This tool is relatively compact and lightweight.
It is used for tightening and loosening self-tapping screws and screws. Typically, screwdrivers have a small power, which is only enough for drilling small holes in diameter.
A drill driver can only be used for soft and loose materials - plywood, wood, chipboard, drywall and others. In a large assortment of screwdrivers are presented on the site foxtrot.com.ua/ru/shop/shurupoverti.html.
These tools can be corded or cordless. Of course, a portable drill is much more convenient, but for home use, it is better to purchase a mains-operated model, as it is much cheaper.
How to insert a drill into a puncher?
Master's response:
A puncher is an indispensable thing in the house of any master who tries to do all the repair work with his own hands. If you consider yourself one of those, and have already become the happy owner of a new tool, first learn how to properly prepare it for work, that is, for drilling wood, metal, tiles and other surfaces.
A serviceable tool should work instantly after you power it from the outlet, set the drilling mode without a fight to the extreme left position and press start.
The absence of jerks and failures in the operation of the motor speaks of excellent work.
The rotary hammer must be supplied with a chuck that is perfectly compatible with the tool.
To optimize the workflow and reduce wear of parts, a special lubricant will help, which must be squeezed out of the tube and poured into the hole intended for the drill.
Now rest the tool with the handle on some hard surface, for example, the floor, and pull down the lower share of the perforator head. So you can insert the chuck and return the head of the power tool to its original position.
Insert the drill of the required size into the chuck and, turning the top of the chuck clockwise, ensure that it reaches the stop.
Clamp the drill and check if it dangles or not. In the case of a “walking” drill, you need to tighten the chuck even more. Connect the tool to the mains and in a row press the start button several times in short jerks - so the lubricant will disperse well in the mechanism.
If you need a puncher for the pleasure of pride, when you just need to make repairs in the house at a time, buy an inexpensive cartridge.
But spend the saved money on an expensive drill that will last a long time and work with it will be much more pleasant than with a cheap Chinese drill.
And finally.
If health is dear to you, then do not even think about touching the rotating elements of the perforator. You can easily injure yourself if you install a drill and a chuck with the plug plugged into the outlet!
A drill is a tool used to make holes or indentations in any material. This process, called drilling, is carried out by rotating the cutting edge moving along the axis.
For comfortable work with brick, stone and concrete surfaces, samples with a hard tip made of a special alloy are used.
The tools used when drilling with a hammer drill can have both a cylindrical shank and an SDS-shape, which differs in drills, which are also divided into different types. This article will tell about some principles of working with drills, as well as the correct choice of tool.
Working with drills
Before you start working with a hammer drill, you should familiarize yourself with how to properly handle drills in various situations.
How to insert a drill into a puncher?
Answering this question, how to insert a drill into a puncher, it should be mentioned that punchers are equipped with two types of cartridges - tightening with a key and quick-clamping.
In the first case, the drill is clamped and removed using a special key, in the second case, it is fixed without the use of auxiliary tools. But first you need to correctly insert the cartridge itself into the punch, proceeding as follows:
- A little special grease is poured into the hole for the drills where the cartridge will be inserted;
- The lower part of the body of the perforator rests on a hard surface;
- The lower element of the apparatus head is pulled down;
- The cartridge is inserted and the lower element of the head is released, returning it to its original position.
The last thing you need to know is how to fix the drill in the punch. This is done simply: install the drill and clamp it by turning the top of the chuck (if using a keyless mechanism), or tightening it with a key (if working with a key chuck).
Checking work
After installing the drill, you need to check the quality of its fixation. If it wobbles, tighten the cartridge tighter. Next, the device is connected to the mains and the start button is pressed several times, thereby helping the lubricant to spread over all parts of the mechanism.
Getting started, set the desired mode and let the machine run a little at idle. This allows you to make sure that the gearbox is functioning correctly, without unnecessary noise, knocking or vibration.
How to pull a drill out of a puncher?
If a key cartridge is installed on the puncher, then everything is simple here - the drill is pulled out in the same way as from a conventional drill, that is, by loosening the cartridge with a key.
Before you pull out the tool from the double-sleeve keyless chuck, you need to switch the hammer to reverse mode
Next, with one hand you need to clamp the lower clutch, and with the second - unscrew the upper one. The drill can be removed from a single-sleeve chuck with one hand, since such a mechanism is installed on rotary hammers with an automatic shaft lock.
How to get a stuck drill in a hammer drill?
Drill bit stuck in puncher? How to get it out of there and what to do depends on the situation, which can be exactly three:
- The drill is jammed in a chuck or adapter for using a conventional drill in a perforator;
- The drill is jammed in the punch chuck;
- The tool is stuck in the wall.
The first situation is typical for those cases when the hammer is used as a conventional drill, using the installed chuck. It happens that after drilling, the drill cannot be removed from the cartridge, as it is too tight and does not unscrew. This happens mainly due to a lack of lubrication in the clamp or when blockages occur in it.
To open the cartridge, it must be treated with a special lubricant WD-40 or kerosene. After 10-15 minutes, you should lightly tap the cartridge, while trying to loosen the stuck tool. After that, the clamp usually unwinds easily.
A completely different situation occurs when the drill is jammed in the punch chuck. In the process of percussion or reverse-impact movements of the drill, its shank (in the case of using a cheap tool made of non-hardened steel) can rivet. As a result, it will get stuck in the barrel. How to remove a drill from a puncher - consider step by step:
- The drill is fixed in a vice, after which the puncher is slightly loosened and pulled towards itself;
- The hammer is fixed in a large vice, the drill itself is captured with a pipe wrench and beaten with a hammer, thus pulling out the stuck tool.
If the drill jams due to turning in the clamp, you need to disassemble the chuck by removing the cap and rubber ring, or try turning the drill back 90 degrees.
If the shank is severely deformed, it will not work to pull out the drill using the considered methods. In this case, you will have to completely disassemble the puncher, and then knock out the stuck drill.
Now, as for the case when the drill gets stuck in the wall. If this happens, then you should not continue to press the start button and try to loosen the punch with your hands. So you can only break the drill, or even completely burn the device.
Instead, you need to carefully release the puncher from the drill and insert another one into it. Next, you should drill the concrete around the stuck element, after which you can safely pull it out.
Useful video
One of the most common problems with rock drills is a stuck SDS bit. The video shows how to solve this problem.
Drill selection
For high-quality, convenient and correct work, you should know which drills are best to use and how to choose them.
Today, these tools are made from high speed, carbon and alloy steels. When working with highly hard materials, products with victorious soldering should be used at the end.
When choosing, you need to pay attention to the color of the drill. There is an opinion that a black instrument is stronger than the rest. But in reality, this only indicates that the product was treated with superheated steam during the manufacturing process. But brown or golden drills are really a higher quality tool, the strength of which is achieved by relieving internal stress using the tempering procedure during production.
Special attention should be paid to the choice of drills. This tool can be divided into two large groups:
- SDS Plus - used when working with a light and medium type tool for drilling small diameter holes (from 5mm to 32mm);
- SDS Max - for larger devices (drill diameter can be from 16 to 50 mm).
When choosing a drill, you should focus primarily on prices - cheaper samples will have the appropriate quality. This tool won't last long. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the appearance of the drills. Quality products have strictly consistent dimensions, as well as a clear geometry of the grooves and recesses located on the shank.
If you plan to drill large holes, for example, under a socket or switch, then special crowns will be needed here. With their help, you can drill holes with a diameter of 35 to 120 mm. For the socket, a crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used.
It should be remembered that not only the quality of the work performed, but also the service life of the perforator depends on the correct choice of the drill, as well as the skillful handling of the tool.
A drill and a hammer drill, as tools that make cutting elements rotate, are indispensable machines for construction, repair, installation of various equipment and other types of work. How to insert a drill into a drill and puncher? If this is not done correctly, then it will not be possible to work with the existing power tool and apply it in your activities.
The question, of course, is not difficult, but it requires due attention, since an incorrectly fixed drill can lead to problems: an uneven and broken hole, the likelihood that the drill will fall out of the tool, causing injury, and other troubles. First, consider how the drill is inserted into the drill.
How to insert a drill into a drill
For proper operation, the drill must be fixed with a shank in the drill chuck. Most drills have a cam-type chuck. Such parts are a cylindrical body. A ring, or sleeve, rotates on the surface of the cartridge. Inside the cylinder there are cams, which, during the rotation of the sleeve clockwise, approach each other, squeezing the drill. When rotated counterclockwise, the cams move away from each other, relaxing the drill press, so that it can be easily removed or replaced. You need to relax the cams with a margin so that the drill can be easily inserted.
The principle of operation of the cams allows you to fix drills of any diameter. Household drills are usually produced with a standard allowable drill diameter gap of 0.8–10 mm. There is another interval for some models - 1.5-13 mm.
Reminder! When drilling tiles, turn off the impact mechanism.
The clamping method is key and quick-clamping. In the first option, the adjusting sleeve is set in motion thanks to a special key. On the side of the cartridge there is a hole into which a special key with teeth is inserted. Sometimes such a hole may be not one, but as many as three, and each of them must be loosened by turning the wrench counterclockwise. It will take one or two rotations, no more. Then we begin to rotate the cartridge itself counterclockwise, increasing the diameter of the hole for the drill. Now, having inserted the drill, we first clamp the cartridge, then the sockets.
In a keyless chuck, the sleeve is rotated by hand. Drills and screwdrivers with this clamp often use locking elements that limit the pulling force.
Before fixing the drill, you need to make sure that the device is working. Then it must be de-energized, and after that you can insert the drill.
Never skimp on drills. A good drill will do the job better and last longer.
How to insert a drill into a puncher
As with a drill, before inserting a drill into a hammer drill, you need to make sure that it is working. Putting the tool in the drilling mode without a fight (left position), press the start button. If the sound of the engine is smooth and without shocks, you can fix the drill.
First of all, the drill shank must be properly lubricated and inserted into the chuck. As a lubricant, it is better to use proprietary products that protect metal parts from corrosion. We put the puncher with the handle on the floor or on a solid surface, pull the back of the clamping device back and insert the drill all the way.
Reminder! For drilling a concrete wall, it is better to use a hammer drill than a drill with an impact mechanism.
When replacing drilling tools, pay attention to the shank, whether it is free of old grease and dust. Drills must be clean, without any sticking. If, when the drill is immersed in the chuck, excessive friction occurs, it is better not to rush to work, but to lubricate the mechanism with fresh grease in a timely manner, removing the old one, on which construction debris has fallen. The drill should enter easily and smoothly.
When installing, the drill must be held vertically. Careless movement and improper fastening can damage not only the drill, but also the tool itself.
Chisels, mixers and other tools can also be used with a hammer drill. Whether you are going to do the job with a drill, or with another nozzle, consider the power of the engine, whether it can handle a heavy load.
When working with a power tool, never forget about safety measures. The necessary protective elements are special glasses, earplugs or headphones, as well as gloves. Work should be in overalls that exclude laces, belts, and other hanging accessories that can be wound around the drill. Do not let the device run idle for a long time. Turn it off after each completed work step. Let the instrument rest, especially if you feel it is overheating. Usually the "schedule" is 30 minutes of work for 10 minutes of rest.
The drill must be inserted into the punch chuck until it stops. It is strongly discouraged to try to make the hole deeper by partially immersing the drill.
If the drill is stuck in the drill, you need to clamp it in a vice, and through the wooden plank, tap with a hammer on the cams that do not release the drill. A drill stuck in a hammer drill can be pulled out by dropping a little oil into the key cartridge, or by completely removing the cartridge along with the drill and placing it in gasoline.
If the drill is stuck in the wall, do not loosen the drill or hammer drill, as this can lead to its breakage. It is better to take the drill out of the chuck, insert another one and start breaking the wall around the jammed gun. Thus, it can be easily removed from the wall.
Summing up, we can say that if you correctly fix the drill in the drill and puncher, each step of the work performed will comply with safety standards and will help in solving the tasks and you will be able to drill holes correctly.
Video
This video explains how to work with a hammer drill and shows how to insert a drill into it:
This video tells how to work with a drill, talks about the types of cartridges and how a drill is inserted into them: