Do-it-yourself Dutch oven. Do-it-yourself Dutch oven: materials and tools Stove 3 x reverse chimney

The Bezdyma company provides services for the design and assembly of chimneys for heating units of all types. Chimneys for stoves and fireplaces constitute an essential part of our projects.

Prices

The cost of installing a chimney for a stove depends on the architecture of the house, the design of the stove and the type of smoke exhaust system chosen by the client. All prices and discounts are calculated individually for each project. General pricing information can be found here.

Installation of chimneys for stoves and fireplaces: types, selection criteria, advantages and disadvantages

Brick chimneys for stoves

Until recently, brick was practically the only option, and was widely used for the construction of stoves and chimneys. This is a good material: when installing a brick stove and chimney, the system could last for several decades. Brick allows you to assemble a chimney with different wall thicknesses, any number of holes, turns, passages, etc.

Unfortunately, the disadvantages of brick as a material for smoke extraction systems outweigh its advantages. These should be considered first of all:

significant weight of the structure, due to which brick furnace chimneys must be erected at the same time as the foundation. It takes a lot of time and effort;
chimneys for stoves have a rectangular section that is inefficient in terms of draft;
brick structures are subject to the aggressive effects of smoke and condensate waste products;
brick oven chimneys are difficult to maintain: they need constant attention and care, frequent sanitation, as well as regular whitewashing - to make it easier to notice the cracks that appear.

Metal chimneys have gained immense popularity in recent years. The reason for this popularity is the numerous advantages:

universality;
light weight;
round section;
smooth inner surface;
relative simplicity even in difficult conditions;
a large selection of ready-made systems;
attractive price.

The best material for metal chimneys is alloyed stainless steel.

Steel chimneys can be single-circuit and double-circuit.

Single-circuit chimneys consist of simple steel elements. Usually they are used to connect individual heating units to the main chimney, or they are placed inside old brick smoke exhaust systems. They are unsuitable for outdoor installation.

Elements of double-circuit chimneys (the so-called sandwich chimneys) are two metal pipes between which there is a layer of heat-insulating material. Installation of double-circuit chimneys for wood-burning stoves will cost a little more, but we recommend using just such systems.

Advantages of double-circuit chimneys for furnaces:

lack of heat loss prevents the formation of condensate and improves traction;
the outer contour of the chimney remains cold: this increases the safety of the chimney;
Can be used for both outdoor and indoor installation.

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic chimneys are considered the most advanced and reliable. They also received the name "sandwich", but have nothing to do with double-circuit stainless steel sandwich chimneys.

Ceramic sandwich chimneys include three components:

internal pipes made of durable ceramics - it is through them that the products of combustion of fuel are discharged;
heat-insulating mats or plates made of mineral fibre;
box made of lightweight concrete or polished stainless steel.

Advantages of ceramic chimneys

a large number of ready-made solutions allows you to perform high-quality installation of a chimney for any stove (home-made heater, Russian stove, Dutch stove, buleryan, stoves with a tank, etc.) with minimal labor costs;
the round section of the chimney itself is optimal in terms of traction;
smooth inner walls - provide easy passage of smoke and prevent the formation of condensate;
good thermal insulation - also improves traction and prevents condensation from forming;
resistance to aggressive chemical compounds;
fire safety - in terms of fire safety, modern ceramic chimneys exceed existing standards;
durability - a properly assembled chimney can last several decades.

For more information about our services for the design and installation of chimneys for stoves of various types, please call 8 (495) 972 – 58 – 42.

Although manufacturers today offer private housing owners a wide variety of heating boilers, however, many of them prefer to install stoves or fireplaces in the house, because thanks to them, space heating requires minimum costs. Any heating equipment needs a reliable removal of combustion products. That is why during its construction it is necessary to pay special attention to both aesthetic characteristics and operational characteristics.

The required level of traction that provides the most comfortable and safe conditions to stay in a particular room creates a chimney for the stove. It is an air channel through which the products of combustion come out. It can be an ordinary brick pipe or modular metal types, it is only important that it functions properly.

Basic structures

Outlet channels through which the utilization of air saturated with combustion products passes are necessary not only for stoves, but also for fireplaces or heating boilers or gas water heaters.

We list the main types of chimneys for furnaces.

Direct current. This is one of the first systems through which combustion products were removed. They have a significant drawback - due to the non-stop removal of gases to the outside, the main part of the generated heat is also carried away.
Direct-current structures equipped with transverse jumpers. These small additions allow some of the heat to be retained. When heated, the jumpers transfer heat to the walls of the heating unit. The same design is typical for a stove without a chimney in baths: the stones in them are heated by hot combustion products.

With labyrinth. There are many varieties of such structures, but they all share common features. In particular, this applies to the rate of removal of gases. It is quite low, since the exhaust gases are passed through a tortuous channel. In the process, the device itself warms up in parallel and ensures maximum heat transfer.

Became a classic, Russian stove. The scheme of the chimney is bell-shaped. The incandescent gas rises up, cools down a little on the sloping arch of the hearth and descends to the channel. The disadvantage of such a system is that it warms up unevenly. For example, in the lower part of the hearth, it does not warm up at all, since the heat mainly goes to the roof.
Modular. Unlike the classic brick version of smoke extraction, they are made of metal. They are used in gas heating systems. The fact is that the products of methane combustion are acidic compounds, their aggressive influence destroying bricks.

Device Features

The efficiency of brick, metal, flexible chimneys for stoves and others depends on several factors, for example, material and dimensions, section, height.

It is preferable that the chimney pipes, say, for a bath, be a regular circle in cross section, that is, they have a cylindrical shape. Outgoing smoke with this configuration, in contrast to the angular one, does not encounter obstacles in its path and is discharged with the least resistance. In addition, a minimum of soot accumulates on the walls of the outlet pipe.
The outlet of the heating device must match in cross section with the chimney channel. If the width of the latter in the connection area turns out to be greater, which occurs quite often, then a special reducing adapter is installed, which must be carefully sealed at the junction. The extensions of the pipes during docking should be directed upwards in order to prevent condensate and resins from flowing along their outer wall.

The horizontal part of the channel design requires special attention. Warm smoke, as you know, moves vertically upwards, so moisture condenses especially actively in these areas and a thick layer of soot is deposited. In order to compensate for such undesirable consequences and improve traction, it is necessary, firstly, to strictly limit the length of these segments: they must be less than 1 m in length, and, secondly, to provide condensate collectors and inspection doors there.

The right chimney for sauna stoves- exclusively vertical. Nevertheless, it is allowed to lay the pipe at a slight slope, provided that the length of the inclined section is not more than 2 m.

Main stages of calculation

The calculation of the chimney is carried out taking into account such parameters as the power of the connected heating device, shape and others. Optimal Height and the cross-sectional diameter is calculated based on the SNiP of the furnace and chimneys.

Height above roof

To determine the height of the discharge channel of industrial boilers, a special formula is used that describes its relationship with static draft, average temperature (K) in the pipe and the average outside air temperature in summer. If necessary, the value obtained from the calculation results is adjusted upwards, taking into account the following rule:

When calculating the height, the height of neighboring buildings is also taken into account: in the case of higher ones, the channel is taken out above their roofs.

Pipe area

In practice, they usually do without special calculations, based, depending on the power of the unit, on the following cross-sectional values:

less than 3500 W - 14 × 14 cm;
3500–5200 W - 14 × 20 cm;
5200–7200 W - 14×27 cm.

The cross-sectional area of the cylindrical channel is assumed to be the same.

If the cross section is much larger than the calculated value, then the thrust will deteriorate, and as a result, the system will work unstably. A smaller cross section leads to poor removal of combustion products up to the complete cessation of this process.

Material

The choice of material for the construction of the flue system is based on the type of fuel used for heating. For example, for gas equipment MDS ceramic pipes are best suited, while brick pipes can quickly collapse.

The classic version of the device for the exhaust system is considered to be a brick chimney for metal furnace. The brick structure is assembled exactly according to the project, where the laying of each layer of the channel is specified separately. In this case, it is necessary to obtain a minimally rough surface from the inside and ensure complete tightness.

Today, stainless steel is most often used. In design steel pipes can be: isolated and non-isolated:

uninsulated ones are used exclusively for internal installation of furnaces and chimneys: they are installed in a special shaft;
when installing a pipe from the outside, it must be insulated to prevent moisture condensation inside the pipe.

Safety

For safety reasons, the chimney must be properly insulated, especially if the duct passes through ceilings in the immediate vicinity of combustible materials. are based on the type of floor material and on the temperature of the pipe. It is great if the walls and ceiling near the place where the structure passes are finished with fireproof material. If this is not the case, then the heated parts are isolated from hazardous materials using metal sheets and a layer of non-combustible materials.

The part of the pipe that goes out must be securely fixed and protected from the wind. From above they are covered with deflectors to protect them from precipitation. gas boilers in this matter are an exception: the protective cap on the chimney pipe in this case is a violation.

Some information from SNiP used when installing the chimney of the stove and fireplace

Smoke exhaust ducts can also be located on external walls in the case when they are made of non-combustible material, and the heating device is located near the internal ones. At the same time, external thermal insulation is required, which will not allow condensation of moisture inside the pipe.
Brick channels complement the pockets needed for cleaning. They are closed with a brick (laid on the edge) or a door is installed.
For roofs made of combustible materials, it is necessary to provide a mesh spark arrester, which is installed along the upper part of the channel. If the latter is made of brick, then between it and combustible hazardous materials it is necessary to provide a gap of 13 cm, in the case of non-insulated ceramic - 25 cm, and for insulated - 13 cm.

Installation of stoves and fireplaces on gas fuel has its own characteristics. The connection is made using flexible metal pipes included in the equipment kit. A prerequisite is the presence of a vertical section in the system, and the distance between the axis of the horizontal and the line of the lower level of the nozzle must be at least 50 cm. This distance can be reduced, for example, if the ceiling height is less than 270 cm
twice if the heating unit is equipped with a draft stabilizer;
up to 15 cm if there is no stabilizer.

In the new building, the maximum length of all horizontal sections is more than 3 m, in the old building - up to 6 m. The pipe is installed with a slight slope in the direction of the heating unit. If two units work in the house, then they can be connected to a common outlet channel. They should be separated from each other at a distance of less than 75 cm.
The outlet channel can have a maximum of three turns, the radius of curvature of which must exactly match the diameter of the pipe section.

The Dutch oven, she is a Galanka, a Gulanka or a Galanka, appeared under Tsar Peter the First. About three hundred years ago, he issued a decree prohibiting the use of stoves in houses that did not have a chimney, that is, classic Russian stoves that were heated “in a black way”.

So the first brick structures appeared that could heat a large house.

Design features

The Dutch woman consists of a very capacious firebox (a niche where firewood, coal is laid), located almost at the very floor, six smoke channels - three lifting and three holiday (thanks to which the flue gases heat the stove gradually) and chimney. Laying begins after the construction of the reinforced foundation.

The shape of the furnace can be rectangular or round.

The principle of movement of flue gases in the Dutch

Flue gases generated during the combustion of fuel from the furnace enter the first lifting smoke channel. Here they give off their heat and through the pass gradually descend to the level of the furnace through the outlet channel, where, due to the high temperature, they heat up again and the process is repeated. And from the last channel, the smoke goes out into the chimney.

Such a system of smoke circulation allows you to effectively warm up the room.

The draft in the classic, outdated model is regulated by the height of the pipe, the valve and the firebox door.

The positive aspects of the Dutch oven

the ability to heat a large space;
ease of construction (compared to the Russian stove);
after the combustion of the fuel, the stove heats the room for a long time due to the heated bricks that have accumulated heat;
aesthetic appearance;
V modern models it is possible to transform the furnace hole, stylizing it as a fireplace;
due to the thickness of the masonry in one brick, the structure warms up quickly, while using less fuel than in a Russian stove;
the possibility of combining the furnace with boilers and connecting it to the water circuit and even to gas burners;
the possibility of using any solid fuel.

Disadvantages of the classical design

the lack of a hob does not allow the use of the oven for cooking;
the absence of a blower in the classic Dutch model does not allow optimal control of traction;
because of the same design feature in bad weather, with poor draft, smoke may enter the room;
the absence of a grate and a box for collecting ash complicates the process of cleaning the furnace from combustion products.
Modern designs are devoid of these shortcomings. In addition, the Dutch are modified, allowing you to bake bread in ovens or cook food, and the blower allows you to adjust the draft and eliminates the possibility of furnace gases entering the room.

What is needed for laying the oven?

For the oven itself, you will need such materials, How:

furnace solid bricks and refractory (approximate number - about two hundred pieces, depending on the volume of masonry);
roofing material, hydroisol or special film;
oven clay;
river sand;
cement (concrete);
plastic wire;
cast iron doors;
grate;
asbestos cord;
water;
valve;
foundation reinforcement.

Tools:

shovels:
containers for kneading kiln clay;
fine mesh for sifting sand;
tape measure and building level.

Important! In order to check the correctness of the construction of the drawing, the oven is laid out of bricks on a flat surface without the use of binders (clay and cement). This avoids construction errors.

Clay mortar preparation

This is done in advance, two or three days before the furnace will be built.

Clay is sifted through a mesh so that there are no lumps and large inclusions. Then fill the sifted clay with water, after soaking, drain the excess. When the clay swells, mix it with an equal amount of sifted sand and add water (from the ratio of 1 part water to 8 parts of the mixture).

Foundation under the dutch

It is rational to build the foundation at the same time as the foundation of the house, but in no case should they be interconnected. Between them fall asleep a sand cushion.

Work order

We clear the area intended for laying the furnace, make markings. If the construction will take place in an already built building, flooring will have to be disassembled. Optimal size foundation - one and a half by one and a half meters. The calculation is made based on the size of the furnace, increasing this value by 10-20 centimeters.
Dilute the cement with water. The ratio is one part cement to three parts water.
Pour the resulting solution onto the prepared site.
We lay the reinforcement crosswise on top of the freshly poured cement. Between the metal bars, the approximate distance should be 10-12 centimeters.
We fill the reinforcement with cement mortar. Checking the horizontal building level. Irregularities in the foundation will negatively affect the verticality of the Dutch masonry.
The last stage - through a sieve, pour dry cement powder onto the wet layer and put roofing felt, waterproofing or roofing material (any available waterproofing material). Pour sand over it. Layer thickness - 5 centimeters. We moisten the sand.

Do-it-yourself Dutch masonry

Scheme of laying the furnace - Dutch

ordering

1. Lay out the first row of bricks on top of the sand cushion, check the horizontal level with the building level and fill the entire row with cement mortar.

2.3. In the second and third rows, we lay the bricks flat, fastening them with mortar.

To make the oven perfectly vertical, we use plumb lines and number each row with chalk, for convenience.

4.5. Starting from the fourth row, the bricks are laid "on edge". We begin to lay out the stand under the internal partition and the ash pan opening. The bricks on the back wall will subsequently be removed during the operation of the furnace, so they are laid without using a bonding mortar. The door is not installed to reduce heat loss. In each row we observe the dressing.

We install the firebox door, fixing it between the bricks with plastic metal wire. For tightness, the edges of the door are sheathed with asbestos cord or other heat-insulating heat-resistant material.

6,7,8. We cover the niche for collecting ash with bricks, leaving a hole under it, we lay the furnace grate.

9-13. We lay out the walls of the chamber where the combustion of fuel occurs. Installing the door using the same technology as the ash pan door.

14.15. In this row, we close the firebox, and on the back of the stove we leave space for smoke circulation.

16.17. Here it is necessary to lay a cleaning door or, to reduce heat loss, replace it with a knockout brick.

18-26. We produce the formation of three channels of smoke circulation.

27. Finishing the masonry. You should get three vertical channels of smoke circulation, having the shape of a coil. The walls of the channels must be perfectly smooth. Coating them with clay is irrational.

28. We cover the chimneys, leaving a hole for the chimney. When laying the floor, we slightly shift the masonry back (by 5 cm).

29. Lay out this row without a shift and still form the chimney of the furnace.

30. We lay the chimney and install a valve designed to adjust the draft.

Important! Every 2-3 rows we control the horizontality of the rows with a building level.

We lay a pre-furnace sheet on the floor, which prevents sand from entering the room from under the furnace.

After the thirtieth row of masonry, the chimney begins. It is built of the required length, and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceilings, a special brick thickening (fluff) is made, without changing the internal space of the pipe and sheathing the outer part of the pipe with asbestos or other non-combustible material. This is necessary so that the ceiling does not accidentally catch fire.

Important! When laying a pipe, cement is added to a solution of clay and sand, 1 part of cement to 10 parts of the mixture.

After laying the pipe to the desired height, we build its head and put on a metal head on top, which protects the pipe from penetration into the channel of dirt and precipitation.

After completion of construction, it is necessary to allow the furnace to settle and dry completely. This may take up to two weeks. You can check the draft by burning rags or paper in the firebox. Thus, we have analyzed an example of how to build a Dutch oven with your own hands. Also read about building a furnace, we think it will be useful to you.

The chimney is a necessary part of the heating system of a private house. It ensures the proper functioning of the furnace or boiler, organizes the removal of harmful combustion products outside the housing.

We will try to figure out how to equip a chimney with our own hands so that heating communications are safe for both people and the house.

The requirements set forth in the regulatory documentation are imposed on the installation of heating devices.

The installation of devices is regulated by the provisions SNiP 2.04.05–91 And DBN V.2.5-20-2001. Also, before drawing up a project, it is advisable to study materials on heating systems ( SNiP 41-01-2003), about heat generation devices ( NPB 252–98), O specifications for the operation of thermal devices ( GOST 9817–95), on the rules and regulations for the operation of smoke channels (VDPO).

The design of the chimney and installation features must fully comply with the requirements specified in the SNiP, otherwise you will not receive a certificate of inspection of the structure, which is issued after commissioning

Part of the requirements is addressed specifically to the device of chimneys. The design of the structure can be anything, but the material of manufacture must be non-combustible.

The materials used for the construction of chimneys can be:

steel;
ceramics;
brick.

Without exception, all structures are prefabricated, and the installation itself is fragmentary, since the chimney passes through several rooms (for example, a room and an attic).

In order for the building to meet the requirements fire safety, you should correctly calculate its parameters, as well as select all the component parts by size. When installing factory equipment, it is necessary to follow all the recommendations set out in the instructions, including the assembly procedure and methods for mounting parts.

Image Gallery

Transitions through floors and roofs require the use of fire-retardant thermal insulation materials, for example, mineral wool, and protective block devices, which can be called "sandwich within a sandwich"

The construction of a chimney for a gas boiler, stove or fireplace is a responsible task that requires special permission, design and professional skills. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the installation of the pipe to specialists who will perform the work taking into account all norms and requirements.

If you have already had to build a chimney yourself or you are an expert in this matter, please share your experience and knowledge with our readers. Tell us about the nuances of building a chimney in the block below.

Gallanka, Gulanka or Dutch is one of the most popular stoves, which has been built since the time of Peter the Great. A similar design can be installed in every home. It will be the most economical, convenient and ergonomic in country house or utility rooms, garages.

If we draw parallels between the Dutch and the classic Russian stove, the first one is able to heat the room much faster, since it has a smaller wall thickness. Like any other design, it has its pros and cons.

Do-it-yourself Dutch stove is being built quite quickly and not difficult. It has relatively few negatives. Of them special attention are awarded the following features:

Non-thick walls are called to comply with all fire safety standards, the surface near the structure must be lined with heat-resistant and heat-resistant materials
It is necessary to build a separate foundation and a chimney under the Dutch woman, and the first is often done simultaneously with the foundation of the house, but is not tied up with it
Fuel consumption is not very economical

However, there are many positive aspects that offset all of the above disadvantages:

You can independently choose the future configuration of the model and options for exterior finishes
The design has a relatively small dimensions, thanks to which it is placed even in the smallest rooms.
Good heat transfer performance, which makes it possible to heat the room in a short time

Video lesson on the device and masonry

Design features of the Dutch

The main elements of a do-it-yourself Dutch oven are:

The chimney is a must
Three outlet and three inlet channels (their number may vary) - thanks to them, the room is quickly heated
Spacious firebox - a niche for laying fires

You can not start laying without a solid reinforced base.

The stove is erected in a variety of shapes: from rounded to rectangular. Smoke, passing through the first smoke channel, gives off its heat to the walls of the furnace. Then it cools down and, by means of passes along the second channel, descends to the furnace. Near it, it heats up again and is already flowing upward through the next channel. Having reached the last, the smoke goes into the chimney.

Getting Started

To start building a Dutch stove with your own hands, like any other similar design, you need to prepare everything you need. You will need a standard oven set of tools (trowel, hammers, mallets, bucket, etc.), as well as a grinder with a special circle for concrete, which is coated with diamond coating, tape measure, levels and a plumb line.

Also for work you will need construction and consumables:

Clay and sand, cement
Refractory bricks
A set of doors (blowing, furnace, for cleaning channels)
grate

Foundation masonry

As mentioned earlier, it will not work to build a Dutch woman without a solid reinforced foundation. The best option is to provide for the construction of the furnace during the construction of the house and at the same time pour the stove with the tape. However, they should not be connected to each other, separating them from each other with a sand cushion.

The site on which the future furnace will be built is marked out and carefully cleared. When erecting a brick structure in an already finished room, it is necessary to dismantle it.
The size of the foundation is selected depending on the similar characteristics of the furnace, increasing each of the values by 15-25 cm
The prepared pit should have a sand cushion at the bottom
Next, a not very thick solution is diluted, the ratio of cement and sand in which is 1 to 3, and poured onto the surface of the sand
Then a reinforcing mesh is made, laying the rods first in one direction, then in a perpendicular one, the distance between them is about 10 cm
The reinforcing mesh is again watered with a solution
The final stage - dry cement is sifted over a wet surface with a sieve, then ruberoid or several layers of roofing felts are placed for thorough waterproofing

The surface is covered with a 3-5 cm layer of sand. It is very important to ensure that the pillow is strictly horizontal, otherwise the oven may turn out to be slanted.

Preparing a clay solution

Do-it-yourself clay solution for the Dutch oven should be prepared several days before the start of construction. This will be required in order for him to be able to brew properly.

The clay mass is poured with clean water and soaked for some time.
Excess that remains on top, it is recommended to drain
After a day or two, the clay will swell, it will be necessary to mix it with sifted sand (it should not contain stones and other impurities)
Then water is added in a ratio to the mixture as 1 to 8
To avoid large inclusions and other impurities, lumps, clay is sifted through a mesh

The question is what should be the ratio of clay to sand. Each baker has his own views on this matter. The most common proportions are 1 to 1 or 1 to 2, respectively.

Dutch oven ordering

Row 1. The very first row must be laid on top of the upper sand layer, making sure that all the bricks lie flat, the horizontal is observed. Cement mortar is poured on top - this will be the final stage of the foundation.

Rows 2 and 3. The next two rows are laid flat, binding with a solution. For convenience, each of the rows are numbered in crayon. In order not to stray into the vertical, you can put plumb lines in the corners. Another rule is that it is important to observe the dressing, with each subsequent row overlapping the joints of the previous one.

Rows 4 and 5. In the fourth row, a stand will be laid under the ash pan opening. At the same time, the bricks lie on the edge. back wall here you can do it without mortar, since during the heating process the bricks will be removed and vice versa. You can place another door on the back surface, but heat loss will increase.

Then a door is installed, which is attached to the masonry with soft wire. To achieve tightness, heat-resistant heat-insulating material, for example, asbestos cord, is wound around the edges.

Rows 9 to 13. At this stage, it is necessary to build a furnace. A door is immediately installed for it, observing the rules described earlier.

Rows 14 and 15. Now the firebox should be closed brickwork, leaving behind an opening through which the smoke will be removed.

Rows 16 and 17. A cleaning hole is laid here, which is also closed with a door. Sometimes a knockout brick is installed to reduce heat loss.

Rows 18 to 26. One of the most significant stages, as it lays out the reverse channels. It should be noted that their number and configuration may vary, but the shape remains unchanged - a classic serpentine. It is necessary that there are no ledges on the walls. Sometimes surfaces are coated with clay.

Row 27. The laying has almost come to an end. The channels must be closed, leaving a hole for the chimney in the last one. In this case, it is recommended to move the bricks 5 cm back.

Rows 29 and 30. At the last stage, you will need to form a chimney and install a valve that regulates draft.

It is very important to follow every 3-4 rows, laying the Dutch oven with your own hands, vertically and horizontally. To prevent the sand, which is located at the base of the furnace, from getting outside, it is necessary to put a transfer sheet.

Video review of the finished oven

Chimney masonry

Click to enlarge image

Building, cement must be added to the clay mortar (ratio 1 to 10, respectively). A metal head is mounted on top.

Summing up

Do-it-yourself Dutch stove is being built quite simply in the shortest possible time. However, you should not rush. It is recommended for a beginner to build several rows a day, while analyzing the result. And you should not be afraid to ask for help from a person who understands furnace installations much better - his advice will always come in handy.