If you need to create or modernize heating in a private home, then it is better to first spend an hour or two studying the issue, collecting expert opinions, and in particular, reading this material - consider the most common situations and time-tested solutions.
Knowledge of the issue is the key to success. Even if the heating in the house will not be done independently, then it is better for the owner to speak with visiting installers in their language. It will be easier to control the correctness and budget of the process; you will be able to purchase materials yourself, which means significant savings. Therefore, learning how a heating system is made is beneficial.
How does heating work?
For an ordinary residential building, in the vast majority of cases, a water system with forced circulation of liquid is used. The coolant moves through the pipes under the influence of the pump, heating the radiators, which heat the air. Energy is generated in the boiler.
Everything that does not correspond to this is called “rarity”, and experts also call it “wildness” - it will be so inferior in consumer qualities for residents of a house with a usual area of 70 - 500 square meters.
What does it consist of?
A number of components and assemblies are always used in heating, which are worth learning about in more detail.
- A boiler is a heat generator that burns fuel and heats water (coolant).
- Circulation pump - can not only be installed separately, but is also part of an automated boiler, like some other elements. The coolant moves through the pipes.
- Pipes - modern plastic and metal-plastic products are used, selected by diameter.
- Radiators - transfer energy to the air.
- The expansion tank is a mandatory element; it maintains stable pressure during thermal expansion of water. Protects the system from accidents.
- Safety group - can be part of the boiler or separately, includes a safety valve, automatic air vent, pressure gauge. Must be installed in any closed system.
- The cleaning filter is a small required element.
This is the minimum of a conventional system. If this is installed correctly, for which fittings and taps are used, then the heating will begin to warm the house.
Additional system elements
- Ball valves – two operating modes “open-close”.
- Balancing valves - similar to ordinary taps - fine tuning of the system.
- Three-way valves are automatic flow regulators.
- Thermal heads are devices that control valves depending on temperature and manual settings.
- Mayevsky taps are manual air vents for releasing air.
What to drown with
First of all, the owners are concerned with the question of how to heat the house. Each locality has its own priorities.
- Many homes are now heated with natural gas from mains. It is a cheap and convenient type of fuel. If there gas pipe, then there is nothing to think about, you need to connect and install a gas boiler.
- But you can also often find heating with wood in solid fuel boilers. It's cheap in most areas. But it's not convenient. To simplify the combustion process, the system is supplemented with a buffer tank, or, worse, with complex devices that are not of the best quality - long-burning boilers.
- Coal is displacing firewood in some coal-producing regions where it is cheap.
- Pellets are “automated firewood”, more convenient, but expensive.
- Electricity is slowly replacing firewood, as it is very convenient, and at night tariffs it is tolerable in price. But at a daily rate it is too expensive.
It is advisable to thermally insulate the floor and organize underfloor heating.
After these measures, if they are carried out properly, the house will be warm...
Read more about how to make heating
Heating in the house is done in the following sequence.
- A decision is made on the connection diagram of heating devices, their placement points and, accordingly, the location of the pipelines are determined. The power of the equipment and other technical parameters are determined (a project is drawn up!…)
- A place for the boiler is selected and the boiler is installed, possibly according to a house gasification project, perhaps in connection with the connection of a natural draft chimney.
- The boiler is plumbed, a pipeline and the necessary equipment are installed to ensure the operation of it and the entire system.
- Radiators are distributed and installed in rooms in accordance with the required heating power for each room. You can read this question
- A pipeline is laid, radiators and a boiler with its own piping are connected.
- The system is filled with coolant and tested.
We tie the boiler
Automated boilers, as a rule, contain in their housing both a pump and a safety group, and sometimes an expansion tank. All their piping consists of installing shut-off valves.
For a solid fuel boiler, a pump, an expansion tank, a safety group, temperature control are installed, and automation and control units are also possible.
In complex systems, all this is supplemented by a hydraulic arrow (or a primary ring circuit) with additional pumps on each branch, and it is also possible to install a buffer tank and a DHW boiler.
In the simplest version, the solid fuel boiler needs to be properly tied -
Elements that occur in complex systems
Old systems are not used
It was mentioned that in the modern concept, the coolant should move under the influence of a pump. Everything that is gravity-fed is an anachronism, not practical, not functional, and twice as expensive.
Also, according to modern ideas, the heating system should be two-pipe, and a single-pipe one is expensive both to create and to operate, bulky and does not provide... Its price is increased due to the large diameter of the pipes and fittings, and the ring diagram creates both installation difficulties and difficulty in ensuring the same temperature radiators.
Choose a scheme - one of three
How to combine heating with design
Nowadays, more and more people are trying to remove not only the pipes under the floor, but also the radiators themselves. They install in-floor convectors, which, although more expensive, do not clutter up the interior. The presence of heating with them will be reminded by a decorative grille under the window sills, under the entrance doors...
An intermediate option is more practical in operation - hide the pipes under the floor, leave radiators on the walls with bottom connections - the pipes come out of the floor under the radiators.
In this case, the wiring under the floor can be according to any scheme, but the cheapest and most practical is a dead-end one with branches of thinner pipes from the main line. Under the floor, it is possible to install compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes Oh. Often the connection of radiators is combined with the installation of heated floors in the same space.
Select pipes and radiators
The cheapest option and easy to do yourself is to install a system from polypropylene pipes…. But I can't recommend it. He is the most unreliable. This is due to the impossibility of ensuring standard connection quality and nominal pipe clearance in welded joints.
One can argue for a long time about the selection of radiators... but any that can be found in a store will be suitable for a private home.
Radiators must be connected and installed according to the rules...
Installation
Now all that’s left to do is to put together all the elements that were designed. By the way, of course it is better to use a ready-made heating project, if available...
And if this is known, then the heating system should work properly... Remaining
The problem of organizing a heating system for your own home is one of the key ones during construction, reconstruction, overhaul and so on . Even when purchasing a ready-made country building, you should pay the most attention to this issue. close attention. And to do this, you must have an idea of the existing types of heating systems, their advantages and disadvantages, and operational features.
Of all types of heating, water remains the leader in popularity - with pipes carrying heated liquid coolant from the boiler to radiators, convectors or underfloor heating circuits. Despite the cumbersomeness of such a system and the scale of work during its creation, there is no real alternative yet, if assessed by the joint criteria of “affordability - efficiency - cost-effectiveness”. Well, among all the water systems, the simplest to implement is the single-pipe one. How to plan and install a single-pipe heating system for a private house with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.
What makes a single-pipe heating system different?
The main feature of a single-pipe heating system is probably immediately clear from the name itself.
The circulation of the coolant here is organized through one main pipe, which forms a ring that begins and ends in the heating boiler. All heating radiators are connected in series or in parallel to this pipe.
It is not at all difficult to distinguish externally a single-pipe and a two-pipe system, even just by looking at the heating radiator.
Despite the difference in connecting the radiators, this is all a one-pipe system
Despite the variety of battery connection options shown in the figure, all this refers to single-pipe wiring. Options “a” and “b” show the sequential placement of radiators - the pipe seems to pass through them. In options “c” and “d” the batteries are placed parallel to the pipe. But in any case, both the input and output of any radiator “rely” on one common line.
For clarity, to make it easier to understand, we present a two-pipe wiring diagram:
Always, with any battery insertion scheme, the entrance to it comes from the supply line, and the output is closed to the “return” pipe.
Read more about what it is in a special article on our portal.
Even someone inexperienced in matters of creating a heating system will most likely immediately understand the main disadvantage of a single-pipe scheme. The coolant heated in the boiler, passing sequentially through the radiators located, cools down, and in each subsequent battery its temperature is lower. This difference will be especially noticeable if you compare the first heat exchange point, located closest to the boiler room, with the very last one in the “chain”.
There are certain methods that make it possible to neutralize this disadvantage to a certain extent - they will be discussed below.
Advantages of a one-pipe system
Be that as it may, the single-pipe heating system is quite popular due to its advantages:
- Such wiring requires a minimum amount of material - (we can safely say about 30 - 40% savings on pipes).
- Based on the first point, the scale of the ongoing installation work.
- The wiring diagram is simple, and therefore most owners who have certain skills in plumbing work can cope with the task of self-installation.
- The single-pipe system is extremely reliable - once correctly installed and adjusted, it will not require intervention in its operation for many years. This does not require any complex adjustment units or equipment.
- Such a system is quite universal, and if desired, it can be mounted either in one-story house, and at several levels, naturally, slightly changing the required equipment and adapting the connection diagram.
One pipe runs along the floor surface - it is not too conspicuous and is easy to decorate
- The main pipe always runs along the floor (except options with risers that will be discussed below). This arrangement makes it possible to decorate the pipe without special costs, for example, by closing it, after appropriate thermal insulation, with a finishing floor covering. And, in the end, one low-lying pipe is not so conspicuous, and it is always easier to hide it than two.
Disadvantages of a single-pipe heating scheme
Single-pipe heating systems were actively used on an industrial scale, in the construction of residential and public buildings. The builders were probably fully satisfied with the ease of installation and cost-effectiveness in terms of material consumption, so the shortcomings of the system faded into the background. But in private construction, the “disadvantages” of a single-pipe system will have to be known and taken into account, since they are quite significant.
- The main thing has already been mentioned - in the most simplified form of wiring, it is impossible to achieve equality of coolant temperatures in all batteries of the circuit. One of the solutions is to gradually increase the number of sections from room to room as you move away from the boiler, in order to achieve equal heat transfer by increasing the active heat exchange area. But at the same time, of course, it will be difficult to talk about saving on materials - radiators can cost much more than pipes.
There are other ways to equalize the temperature - we will discuss them below.
- If you plan a heating system with natural circulation, then you may encounter difficulties in meeting the mandatory required pipe slope. With a single-pipe system, the main line is located along the floor, and if the room is quite spacious, or the perimeter of the building is long, then it is sometimes simply impossible to cope with such a task.
Conclusion - a single-pipe system with natural circulation is suitable only for compact buildings. Otherwise, the installation of a circulation pump will become mandatory. However, people now try to install a pump whenever possible, and many modern heating boilers already have a built-in circulation unit.
- A single-pipe system completely eliminates the insertion of “warm floor” circuits into it, in addition to heating radiators. If in the future the owners plan to organize water floor heating in any of the rooms, then it is better to immediately install a two-pipe system.
Read more about this in a special article on our portal:
Wiring diagrams for a single-pipe heating system
The general contour of a single-pipe system is most often located along the external walls of the house and runs parallel to the floor (or with the necessary slope). But the scheme for including heating radiators in this circuit may vary. Let's consider possible options– from the simplest to the more complex and effective.
Because circuit diagram Since the pipe layout and general equipment does not change, then from drawing to drawing the general numbering of nodes will be preserved, indicating only newly appeared elements.
You might be interested in information about how the heating system works
The simplest scheme
A. The simplest single-pipe wiring systems:
The numbers in the diagram show:
1- heating boiler. The main supply pipe goes up from the boiler (item 2). The diagram shows a version of a single-pipe open-type heating system, therefore an expansion tank is mounted at the highest point of the wiring (item 3).
Prices for different types of heating boilers
heating boilers
If the system operates on the principle of natural circulation, then a starting section is required for single-pipe distribution - the so-called "acceleration collector"(pos. 4). It will prevent stagnation of the coolant in the system and will give an additional impulse to the circulation of liquid through the pipes. The height of this accelerating collector above the first radiator (h 1) is at least one and a half meters.
The heating radiators themselves (item 5) in the simplest scheme installed in series with the bottom connection of the input and output on opposite sides. It is clear that when laying a pipe to ensure natural circulation, a slope is observed (shown by brown arrows). Moreover, the excess of the last radiator in the chain above the heating boiler (h 2) must be observed. The larger this value, the better, which is why boiler rooms are often located in basement rooms or artificially recessed floors are made at the installation site of the device. The maximum permissible value of h is 2 – 3 meters.
To avoid all these difficulties, the optimal solution would be to install a pump unit (item 6). It includes the pump itself (item 7), a bypass (jumper) and a valve system (item 8) that allow, if necessary, switching from forced circulation to natural (for example, if power outages are not uncommon in the area of construction).
It is necessary to provide for one more point - the possibility of releasing air pockets that can accumulate at the top point of the radiators. To do this, place on the batteries air vents(pos. 9).
On the left is the Mayevsky crane. On the right is an automatic air vent
They can be Mayevsky taps, which are periodically unscrewed to allow air to escape. A more expensive option is automatic air vents that do not require human intervention.
Prices for Mayevsky crane
Mayevsky tap 1/2
This radiator connection scheme is the most primitive, since all the shortcomings of a single-pipe system are reflected to the maximum extent in it. The last radiators in the circuit will always be significantly colder than the first.
B. The following diagram provides only one improvement - the radiators are connected diagonally (shown by purple arrows).
This passage of coolant through the battery contributes to maximum thermal energy output and more uniform heating of all sections. But the temperature difference in the first and last radiator will obviously be even higher. In addition, such a scheme for inserting batteries significantly reduces the possibility of natural coolant circulation, and with a long overall circuit it will become impossible altogether. This means that it will not be possible to do without a circulation unit.
IN. For such wiring, an open or open system is more suitable. closed type with forced circulation. The diagram below shows an option with a sealed expansion tank.
In this case, the pump is embedded directly into the main pipe (although the previously indicated wiring diagram may remain the same). The main difference is a membrane-type expansion tank (item 10), which is usually installed on the “return” not far from the boiler (there is no regulation here - the optimal location in terms of layout and ease of use is selected). And the second mandatory element is the “safety group” (item 11), consisting of a safety valve designed for a certain value of the maximum pressure in the system, automatic air vent and a visual control device - a pressure gauge.
“Security group” assembled in one building
In the future, when considering the diagrams, only closed system with forced circulation. This is done only to avoid overloading the drawings with lines. But in general, the home owner has the same choice - a closed or open expansion tank, and the circulation is natural, forced or combined.
All three of the above schemes have one common important drawback. It lies in the fact that if any of the radiators fails and is urgently dismantled, the system becomes temporarily completely inoperable, since the circuit is broken.
Therefore, if the decision has already been made to install a single-pipe heating system, then optimal choice will become “Leningradka”, which allows you to get away from many characteristic shortcomings and gives more opportunities in terms of adjustments.
You might be interested in information about what types of
A modernized version of the single-pipe heating system - “Leningradka”
Where this established name, “Leningradka” came from, is not known for certain. Perhaps it is in Northern capital Research institute specialists developed technical regulations for such a heating system. It is possible that when large-scale residential construction began in the country, some Leningrad construction organizations were the first to put such a scheme on stream. Be that as it may, it was the “Leningradka” that was designed for mass construction, both low-rise and high-rise, and its design, while being economical in terms of material consumption and ease of installation, allows for quite efficient use of thermal energy in large heating circuits .
The main difference between the Leningradka is that the input and output on each of the radiators are connected by a jumper - a bypass. Or another option - branches are made from the main pipe to the inlet and outlet of each battery.
Bypass prices
The schematic diagram of the Leningradka is shown in the figure:
Basic diagram of a single-pipe system - “Leningradka”
The presence of a bypass (item 12) makes it possible to distribute heat more evenly across radiators at varying distances from the heating boiler. Even if the coolant flow through any battery is interrupted (for example, a blockage occurs or an air lock forms), the system will still be operational.
The presented diagram shows the simplest version of the “Leningradka”, without equipping it with any adjustment devices. It was often used before, and experienced craftsmen already knew what approximately the bypass diameter is required on a particular battery in order to equalize the temperature at all points to the maximum extent. Thus, a completely insignificant increase in the number of pipes makes it possible to reduce the total number of battery sections in rooms remote from the boiler room.
You might be interested in information about how it works and how it works.
The same option, but with diagonal insertion of batteries, improving their overall heat transfer:
But that's not all. Firstly, it is very difficult to independently calculate the diameter of the jumper for each battery. And secondly, such a scheme does not yet provide for the possibility of dismantling any individual radiator without breaking the closure of the general circuit. Therefore, it is best to use a modernized modification of the Leningradka:
Modernized circuit - with taps and control valves
In this option, each radiator is surrounded on both sides by taps (item 13). At any time, you can “cut off” the battery from the common pipe - for example, when the room for some reason does not temporarily need heating, or if there is a need for dismantling for repair or replacement. The operation of the system will not be disrupted in any way.
These taps, by and large, can be used to regulate the heating of a specific radiator, increasing or decreasing the coolant current.
But it would be wiser to install here Ball Valves, which are designed primarily to operate in two positions - “open” or “closed”. And for adjustment, a needle balancing valve mounted on the bypass (item 14) will serve.
The same diagram - with a diagonal connection:
And here is a similar connection in the photo:
The radiator is connected to the Leningradka
- Blue arrows – shut-off ball valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator.
- Green arrow – balancing valve.
Such a modernized “Leningradka” system makes it possible, if necessary, to install the system not as a single looped circuit, but with dedicated sections - branches. For example, this way you can organize wiring in a two-story building, or in a house that has “wings” or side extensions.
"Leningradka" with an additional branch circuit
In this case, a branch is made from the main pipe (item 16), going to an additional heating circuit, and a tie-in into the return pipe (item 17). And on the “return” of the additional circuit (pos. 15), it is advisable to install another needle control valve (pos. 18), with the help of which you can achieve a balanced joint operation of both branches.
For a two-story house, another option is possible. If the layout of the premises is generally the same, then it would be rational to use a system of vertical risers.
19 – interfloor covering.
20 – supply pipe from the boiler.
21 – return pipe.
22 – risers, which include radiators according to the “Leningrad” scheme with an adjustable bypass.
There is, however, one interesting point here. Each drain itself is organized according to the principle of a single-pipe system (highlighted in green). But if we consider the system as a whole, then the risers are already included in the two-pipe system - each of them is connected in parallel to the supply pipe and to the return pipe (highlighted in brown). Thus, it is obvious harmonious combination advantages of both systems.
Video: Leningradka heating system
You may be interested in information about what they are
Planning your heating system
When conducting pre-planning Any heating system must take into account many nuances that directly affect its efficiency. It is very important to correctly select the main elements - boiler, radiators, pipes for creating circuits, expansion tank, circulation pump. Ideally, such a calculation should be entrusted to specialists. But knowing the basics and being able to navigate such issues will never be superfluous.
What kind of boiler will you need?
The main requirement for the boiler: its thermal power must fully ensure the efficiency of the heating system - maintain the required temperature in all heated rooms and completely replenish the inevitable heat losses.
This publication will not dwell on the types of heating boilers. Each homeowner makes an individual decision - based on the availability and cost of energy resources, the presence or absence of boiler room equipment, fuel storage, taking into account their financial capabilities to purchase this or that equipment.
But the boiler power is a general parameter without which it is impossible to create a rational and efficient heating system.
You can find a lot of recommendations for the simplest independent calculation of the required power. As a rule, it is recommended to proceed from a ratio of 100 W per 1 m² of house area. However, this approach gives only an approximate value. Agree that neither the difference in the climatic conditions of the region nor the features of the premises are taken into account here. Therefore, we suggest using a more accurate method.
To begin, make a small table in which you indicate all the rooms of your home and their parameters. Surely, every owner has a building plan, and, knowing the features of his “possessions,” he will spend very little time filling out such a table. An example is given below:
| room | area, sq. m | external or balcony door | external walls, number, where they look | windows, quantity and type | window size | required for heating, kW |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TOTAL: | 18.7 kW | |||||
| hallway | 6 | 1 | 1, C | - | - | 2.01 |
| kitchen | 11 | - | 1, V | 2, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.44 |
| living room | 18 | 1 | 2, S.W. | 2, double glazing | 150×100 cm | 3.35 |
| bedroom | 12 | - | 1, V | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.4 |
| children's | 14 | - | 1, W | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.49 |
| so on throughout all rooms | … |
Now that the data is prepared, go to the calculator below and calculate the heat energy requirement for each room and enter it into the table - it’s very simple. All that remains is to sum up all the values.
Calculator for calculating the required thermal power
After building a private house or when switching to autonomous heating of an apartment, some craftsmen decide to make water heating with their own hands. In order for the project to be economically feasible and technically competent, it is necessary to approach such serious work with full responsibility.
Fuel type
Since natural gas remains the optimal energy resource in our country, we will focus on it.
Considering that this type of fuel is considered the most affordable, the costs of materials and equipment will quickly pay for themselves during operation.
Equipment selection
Such an important process as heating installation begins with the selection of equipment. In the modern construction market there is no shortage of heating equipment and related parts, so there will be no problem with choice.
The main elements of water heating are: a heating boiler, pipes, radiators and various components with which the system is monitored and controlled. When choosing materials and parts for a heating system, the main thing is to ensure that they are all compatible with each other.
Boiler
The boiler is the main element of the heating system, and a comfortable indoor microclimate depends on its operation.
Single-circuit boilers are designed to heat the coolant exclusively in the heating system, so in order to additionally heat water for household needs, the installation of a storage tank will be required.
Using double-circuit units equipped with a heat exchanger or boiler, you can directly supply hot water for domestic hot water.
Heating boilers are divided into two categories depending on the installation method: wall-mounted and floor-mounted. In most cases, preference is given to the first option, since its power is enough for an average-sized house and does not require much space for installation.
For bulky and powerful floor-standing boilers, as a rule, a separate room (boiler room) is allocated. Since a double-circuit boiler involves installing a hot water distribution point in close proximity, it is ineffective in houses with several bathrooms, especially if the bathrooms are located far from the kitchen. In this case, the water will warm up unevenly and there may be interruptions in its supply.
Having analyzed all the nuances of this equipment, we can come to the conclusion that to implement an optimal heating scheme, single-circuit wall-mounted boilers, which are produced complete with a pressure gauge, expansion tank, safety valve and various electronic parts, deserve the greatest attention.
Boilers generate heat, but its further distribution is carried out according to two principles: natural and forced. In the first case, the process occurs according to the gravitational law: the hot coolant rises up, and the cooled coolant goes down and heat is transferred from the boiler to the pipes and radiators. This system involves inclined installation of large diameter pipes and is suitable for houses with an area of about 100 m².
In order to properly design and implement home heating, it is better to do this using the second option using a circulation pump, which creates pressure in the system, pushing hot water towards the radiators.
The heat will be quickly and evenly distributed through the pipes, thereby ensuring a comfortable temperature in the rooms. To operate the pump, you will need a 24-hour supply of electricity, so the device is subject to energy efficiency requirements.
This property is characteristic of frequency-controlled units that adapt to the hydraulic pressure in the system.
Pipes
Among steel, copper and propylene pipes, it is better to choose the latter. They meet all the requirements of the heating system and allow it to be installed correctly.
In most cases, reinforced propylene pipes with a twenty-millimeter outer diameter are used. They show correct operation with a coolant of 90 degrees, and are less susceptible to linear expansion when heated, and also withstand the characteristic pressure for autonomous heating. Their installation is quite simple and is carried out using a special soldering iron.
In addition to the long-familiar cast-iron radiators, there are several more varieties of these elements of the heating system: steel, aluminum, bimetallic, copper. The main thing is to choose those that are suitable for each specific scheme.
Under the right choice this implies the operating temperature and composition of the coolant, its maximum pressure, inertia and heat transfer indicators corresponding to the heating system specified in the project.
Each type of product differs not only in technical characteristics, but also in design. Detailed description of radiators indicating all technical parameters attached to the product in the form of instructions from the manufacturer.
Installation process
When the heating system design has been approved and materials and equipment have been purchased, you can proceed to installation. Like any construction procedures, work on installing heating for a house or city apartment is divided into several successive stages.
System type
When starting the main work, it is necessary to take into account that the heating system can be one-pipe or two-pipe - it all depends on its connection diagram. In a single-pipe system, the coolant sequentially passes through all the batteries and returns back to the heating boiler.
Its disadvantage is that in each subsequent radiator the coolant temperature decreases. The advantages include lower pipe consumption and, accordingly, lower cost of project implementation.
A two-pipe system involves a separate supply pipe to each battery. The outlet circuit for all heating points is common; cooling water flows to it through a separate pipe.
In order to properly install pipes, you will need a set of tools:
- roulette;
- pliers;
- level;
- adjustable wrenches and wrenches;
- screwdrivers;
- Bulgarian;
- soldering iron for propylene pipes with nozzles;
- metal hacksaw or cutter (scissors);
- hammer drill
Marking
When all the tools are at hand, you can apply markings according to the diagram in the places where the pipes pass and the radiators are attached. Here you need to follow certain rules.
Installation points for brackets for attaching radiators are marked under the window openings. When marking, you need to take into account that the distance from the floor to the bottom point of the radiator must be at least 6 - 10 cm. The same distance is measured from the window sill to the top point of the heating element.
These places are leveled to avoid distortion. When laying pipes, it is necessary to observe their slope (5°) towards the circulation; according to this rule, markings are applied for attaching clips.
When the marking is ready, holes are drilled to fix the fasteners.
There are a number of requirements for securing the main heating element:
- fasteners are mounted exclusively on load-bearing main walls;
- the proportionality of the hood and the chimney opening is strictly observed;
- free access to the boiler elements is left for its maintenance;
- fastening elements are selected strictly according to the type of walls.
At the fastening points, holes for dowels are drilled and metal corners are fixed. Then the top cover and front panel are removed from the structure, after which the boiler is hung on fasteners, and the mounting bracket must be well strengthened.
As mentioned earlier, forced circulation of coolant works thanks to a pump. Such a unit is installed next to the boiler in a section of the return line, where the water temperature is not very high and its impact will not cause damage to the rubber gaskets of the pump.
If the heating boiler is not equipped with an expansion tank, its additional installation will be required (a closed type product is installed on any flat section of the pipeline). This heating element serves to accumulate coolant expanded from heating.
The connection of the tank to the boiler is carried out with an upper connection.
First of all, brackets are installed in the holes made, which are fixed with cement mortar for reliability (this especially applies to cast iron radiators). Next, the battery is hung on the fastening element, while there should be a gap of at least 2 cm between it and the wall.
Now with the help building level it is necessary to check the position of the heating element along the horizontal and vertical lines. In this case, there should be no distortions, otherwise it will negatively affect the operation of the device.
In most cases, radiators are supplied with additional elements, which should be equipped with the radiator before connecting it to the pipes of the heating system.
To adjust the required temperature, you will need to install a thermostat. Don’t forget about the Mayevsky valve, which bleeds the air. Unused holes in the batteries are closed with plugs.
To correctly install parts on the battery, it is advisable to use a torque wrench. This tool will not allow you to break or undertighten the thread. It is recommended to seal all connections using flax fibers and a special paste.
Pipe laying
Propylene pipes do not have sufficient flexibility, therefore, in the places where they are attached to the boiler and radiators, fittings (angles, tees and crosses) will be required, providing for a transition from plastic to metal elements of the heating system. Pipe sections are connected by couplings. Most often, the installation of propylene pipes is carried out using the socket method.
At the beginning of the process, a pipe of the required size is cut at a right angle with special scissors. For reinforced materials, the top propylene and aluminum layer is removed to the level of entry into the fitting plus 2 mm.
Fixation of pipes to the wall is ensured by clips installed in the marking areas. At the last stage of work, the pipes are screwed to the heating elements using soldered adapters.
When all installation work on the installation of heating elements is completed, you can start the boiler. It is better if professionals do this, because such a procedure requires increased safety measures.
In our country, where winter lasts six months, we need a good and convenient heating system that would warm the house in any bad weather. Water heating remains the most reliable means of fighting for warmth and comfort in a private home.
Scheme of operation of a water heating system.
Boilers are used as heating devices. various types fuel and even a regular stove. Where water heating uses a stove, the bore diameter of the pipes is increased and shut-off valves are reduced to a minimum.
Principle of operation
This system has gained popularity for its simplicity. Heating uses the following operating principle: the boiler heats water (or antifreeze) to the required temperature, it flows through pipes to radiators or radiators in the rooms, giving off heat, and returns to the boiler.
Diagram of a system with gravity flow of water.
Also, a water heating scheme may include:
- expansion tank - excess water generated during heating is discharged into it, and it also ensures the absence of oxygen in the system;
- the circulation pump maintains a constant circulation of water in the system, with its help the rate of heating of the room increases due to faster movement of water;
- pressure gauge;
- thermostats;
- air vent - automatic or shut-off;
- safety valves.
Boiler selection
When purchasing a boiler, as a rule, they take the value of 1 kW of power per 10 sq. m of heated living space, taking into account that the ceiling height is no more than 3 meters. They also take into account the volume of the room, the degree of insulation of a private house, the size of windows, and the presence of additional heat consumers.
With heated area: from 60 to 200 sq. m – boiler power up to 25 kW, from 200 to 300 sq. m – 25-35 kW, from 300 to 600 sq. m – 35-60 kW, from 600 to 1200 sq. m – up to 100 kW.
You can choose an electric boiler - with an area of a private house from 30 to 1000 square meters. m, you can use boilers with a power of 3 to 105 kW, respectively. The disadvantages of electric boilers are the high cost of electricity, power outages or insufficient power.
Nuances of operation
When using a furnace, to improve the operation of the system, the difference between the lower point of cold water (return) and the upper point of hot water is maximized. The riser is brought to the ceiling. In any case, water heating is calculated. If a heating boiler is used, it is recommended to lower it lower, if possible, for example, into the basement. This arrangement allows you to increase the height of the riser and give the water a greater impulse of movement. Consequently, efficiency will increase and the house will warm up more evenly.
Fuel
To heat the boiler, different types of fuel are used: natural gas, coal, wood. Centralized energy supply or alternative energy sources such as mini-hydro stations, solar or wind converters can also be used.
Pipe selection
When installing water heating, pipes from different materials. Each has its own pros and cons.
Steel
Steel pipes used to be the most popular, but are used less and less in modern construction. The disadvantage of conventional steel pipes is their susceptibility to corrosion, so they use stainless or galvanized pipes, which are more reliable.
Copper
Copper pipes can withstand high temperatures and pressure, will last for generations, and are the most reliable for use in a private home. Their only drawback is their high cost.
Polymer
Polymer pipes are made of metal-plastic (aluminum coated with plastic) or polypropylene reinforced with aluminum.
Main advantages:
- corrosion resistance;
- strength;
- no sediment is deposited on the inner surface;
- low cost of installation work, because welding is not required.
Among the disadvantages is a high coefficient of thermal expansion; during the cold period, temporary cessation of boiler operation or freezing of the heating system can lead to damage to the pipes.
System design
A single-circuit system is intended only for heating the room. This heating scheme has a simple operating principle, is inexpensive and is suitable for houses up to 100 square meters. m. Includes a single-circuit boiler with atmospheric exhaust, single-pipe distribution with pipes made of steel or polymer materials, as well as cast iron, aluminum or steel radiators.
Scheme of single-circuit heating of a room.
This system can be improved by adding two-pipe wiring, a circulation pump, and thermostatic valves on radiators. With a single-circuit boiler to supply hot water for domestic needs, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a gas water heater or boiler. The dual-circuit system is used for both home heating and water heating.
Dual circuit system
A double-circuit boiler is convenient when a family needs hot water of no more than four people, and taking into account that the water is tap or softened (hard water from a well is not suitable). Two single-circuit systems can also be made, one of them will heat the room, the other will heat the water. This will allow you to use only the water heating system in summer, which consumes 25% of the boiler power.
Construction of a double-circuit boiler.
The most common classification of water heating systems takes into account the piping layout. Water heating can be either two-pipe or single-pipe.
Single-pipe heating system
A single-pipe system is a system in which heated water from the boiler sequentially passes from one battery to the next. As a result, the last battery will be colder than the first; as a rule, such a system is used in apartment buildings. The most significant drawback is that it is difficult to manage single-pipe wiring, because if you block the access of water to one of the radiators, then all the others will also be blocked.
Two-pipe heating system
In a two-pipe system, a pipe with hot and cold water goes to each radiator. cold water. Water heating of a private house allows you to comfortably regulate the temperature in the rooms.
Collector (radial) - from the collector (a device in the heating system that collects coolant) two pipes are connected to each heating device - forward and return. This makes it easy to install heating systems with hidden wiring pipes, and also makes it possible to maintain and regulate the set temperature in a separate room. To do this, on each floor of the house there are collectors in a special cabinet, from which independently connected pipes go to the radiators. Disadvantages are the cost of pipes and installation of manifold cabinets.
Pumps
Additionally, laying heating pipelines country house, install circulation pumps - they do an excellent job of circulating water in large houses with a long length of pipes, save fuel consumption, and also heat the room faster due to the rapid movement of water.
Experts recommend that for one-story houses with a steep roof and a basement, make a scheme with vertical risers and two-pipe wiring. When installing water heating with your own hands, it is important to think about where the exhaust gases will go. To ensure their exit, you need to install a special pipe.
Calculation of water heating
First you need to calculate the system. First of all, it is necessary to remember that the need for heating will directly depend on factors such as heat loss through window and door openings, as well as through walls, floors and ceilings. Thus, to calculate the power of a heating boiler, you need to know the principle of operation of the system and the degree of heat loss by the finishing and design materials from which the house is made.
Those walls of a private house that are in direct contact with the external atmosphere conduct heat more efficiently. In this case, the degree of heat loss will increase with each temperature difference between the internal and external sides of the wall. The normal temperature is considered to be 20 °C.
When calculating water heating, this indicator should be summed up with the highest negative temperature characteristic of a particular area. When calculating heat loss, you need to calculate the exact area of the end (external) walls, door and window openings, ceilings, floors, and then multiply these data by the degree of heat loss at each square meter private house. After this, all results are summed up.
The correct calculation of the location of the distribution boiler is very important, since the number of bends and the length of sections of the residential heating system in a private house will directly depend on this.
Installation features
Before you start installing water heating with your own hands, it is worth considering the most popular and practical systems, advantages and disadvantages, installation principles, as well as suitable types of radiators. 
Homemade house construction is always associated with the organization of space heating. This issue is thought through long before the start of the relevant work. There are many options. They are considered by any person who is going to provide heating for a country house with their own hands. Quite often there are cases when no one can help with advice. Company specialists charge a fee for this, which makes their services not the most profitable option. You have to think through everything yourself.
Nuances and subtleties
Those who want to make homemade heating should remember that they should use only those types of pipes that have a small diameter, since only they can maintain high water temperatures and effectively create and maintain the necessary temperature regime in the Russian climate.
However, they also have their disadvantages. In particular, due to the small diameter of the pipes, installation of water heating cannot be carried out without first carrying out a major overhaul of the entire room. In addition, as for the water heating system itself, it requires constant heating of the coolant.
Therefore, if you forgot to drain the water from the pipes of your private house in the winter and left it for a long time, then you should expect trouble, since under the influence of low temperatures the pipes may simply break. As a result, upon your return you will be forced to repair the entire water heating system, since the main part of the pipeline will be damaged.
But even if you remember to drain water from heating pipes that have a small diameter, they can still suffer from corrosion, since the presence of air will take place, which will lead to the formation of internal condensation on the walls of the pipeline.
Water heating of a country house means an affordable cost of materials for installation and further operation, as well as good results in creating warmth and comfort in the house.
This is a very important question. If there is an error in choosing a heating system the rooms will be cold, or expenses for heating will be completely unbearable.
DIY heating connection diagrams for a private house
Exists several types heating systems for a private home that you can do yourself.
Single pipe systems
Key element - boiler. In it, the coolant is heated, passes through the heating system and returns back to the boiler, where the water is heated again.
Serves as a cold water intake pipe second part of the system. The entire system is circular and closed in a continuous cycle.
Single-pipe systems are:
- Closed- does not communicate with the surrounding air, and if there is excess pressure inside, excess air is removed manually. The volume of liquid in the system is constant.
- Open- have a leaky expansion tank into which excess air is forced out. Pipes passing through the house are located above heating devices (to displace air into the container).
It comes out of the water heating boiler one pipe and, sequentially running around all the radiators, returns back.
- low cost;
- the flow of water is directed at will;
- ease of installation;
- the system can be mounted under the wall or under the floor;
- use of any boiler(solid fuel, gas, electric);
- All elements of the system are connected to the distribution pipe.
- High cost.
- The water temperature decreases from one battery to another, and if there are many radiators connected, then the last one is already cold. To heat all the rooms, the heating temperature must be greatly increased, which entails additional costs.
- Running coolant requires high pressure, for which an additional pump is installed.
- High system pressure causes wear(a large number of leaks occur).
- A system that It has not been used for a long time and is difficult to start.
- Without installing the proper slope, air plugs may occur in the chain., which makes heat transfer difficult.
- It is not possible to repair a single link without shutting down the entire system.
Horizontal
The principle of operation is circulation through a closed horizontal coolant circuit, which enters and exits the same boiler.
Photo 1. Horizontal single-pipe heating system with a main pipe from which wiring goes to the batteries.
From the heating boiler, the main pipe is laid horizontally (on the floor or under the floor), from which branches are made to the radiators. If the house is two-story, then on the first floor a riser cuts into the main pipe to supply water to the second floor.
Attention! The main pipe is being laid on a slight slope(with natural coolant circulation), while the batteries must be installed at the same level.
If the structure is mounted on the floor, then the pipes are insulated so that there is no excess heat transfer.
- ease of installation;
- cheapness;
- if the system is equipped with bypasses, then the difference in temperature is small;
- dismantling one battery does not require shutting down the entire system;
- the coolant circulation will be quite fast.
- temperature adjustment on individual radiators is not possible;
- when repairing one link, the entire system must be stopped;
- The difference in temperature between the first and last radiator is very large.
The connection can be:
- Flow-through(severe heat loss, not recommended for small rooms).
- With bypasses(the bypass diameter should be smaller than that of the main pipe. Part of the water goes to the radiator, the rest moves further through the system).
- Nizhny(possibly with forced passage of liquid).
- Diagonal(better for heat transfer).
Important! If the system is mounted for a two-story house, then the equipment must include a pump for forced circulation of liquid.
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Vertical
All batteries in parallel connected to vertical risers. It is advisable to install this system in buildings with more than two storeys. The heated coolant flows from top to bottom.
The heated coolant supply from the boiler goes to the top of the tank and from there it diverges along the conductive line to the radiators. The cooled liquid is returned to the boiler.
- ease of installation;
- uniform heat distribution;
- when renovating one floor, it is not necessary to turn off the other;
- good natural current.
- high pipe consumption;
- heating large rooms is difficult.
Installation nuances:
- The presence of an expansion tank is mandatory here. Installed at the peak point (attic).
- It is advisable to install one Mayevsky crane on the floor.
- The main pipe is laid with a slight slope.
It can only be attached to the boiler metal pipes.
Project of the Leningradka scheme
The heated coolant leaves the heating boiler, sequentially passes through all connected heating devices and returns back.
"Leningradka" can be:
- vertical;
- horizontal;
- with top or bottom wiring.
The main pipe is being laid along the outer walls of the building, encircling it around the perimeter. All heating devices, including heated floors, are connected to this pipe. Allowed into the system inset of modern elements(pump, thermostatic valves, bypasses, etc.).
Photo 2. Diagram of the Leningradka heating system with circulation pump, four radiators and an expansion tank.
- possibility of connecting several heating boilers;
- low cost;
- low pipe consumption.
- use of large diameter pipes so that the entire system works efficiently;
- Air locks often form in the system;
- to the system You can connect heated floors or a heated towel rail, but the power is not enough for full operation.
When assembling the system, the following points must be taken into account:
- If the main pipe is laid below floor level, then In addition, thermal insulation must be used to avoid overheating of the floor.
- The main pipe is pulled with a slight slope.
- The expansion tank must be installed close to the boiler.
- The pump can only be installed after the expansion tank along the flow of the coolant.
- Installation heating carried out before any finishing work begins.
- Radiators are located only on one level.
Important! Due to excessive airing of the chain, use Mayevsky cranes Necessarily.
During installation, sudden changes in height must be avoided, since in this case, traffic jams are guaranteed.
Two-pipe with bottom wiring
The main difference between this system and a single-pipe system is the number of pipes: hot water is supplied through one, and cold water is discharged through the other.
Both pipes(both feeding and collecting) are located below under the batteries. The hot coolant pipe is laid above the return pipe. The liquid moves through the system from bottom to top.
Exists two connection methods batteries:
- ray— each radiator is connected to the main pipe by separate connections;
- consistent.
The system can be installed with:
- passing contour(liquid in both pipes moves in the same direction);
- dead end(coolant moves in different directions);
- one;
- several.
- autonomy of floor heating;
- possibility of operation until the construction of the house is stopped;
- low heat loss due to installation features;
- the central unit can be placed in the basement.
- airiness systems - air bleeding must be carried out daily;
- when installing an overhead line system becomes unnecessarily bulky;
- high consumption of materials(especially for radial connection);
- adjustment should be carried out before the onset of cold weather;
- low pressure in the supply coolant.
When laying the chain, the following points must be taken into account:
- Radiators are additionally equipped with Mayevsky taps to remove air from the system (air vents can be installed).
- If the system is installed in a multi-story building, then laying an overhead line, through which excess air is discharged into the expansion tank.
- If the main pipe was near the front door, then it can be divided into 2 knees.
Two-pipe with top wiring
This system is good in houses with several floors. The heated coolant under pressure goes from bottom to top into the tank, and from there through the supply pipe to the radiators. A system with top supply is always vertical; heating radiators are mounted parallel to vertical risers.
The supply pipe runs through the attic or tech. floor, and the return pipe - in the basement or below floor level on the first floor.
Photo 3. Scheme two-pipe system heating with overhead wiring is suitable for private houses with two or more floors.
- ease of installation;
- low heat loss;
- airiness does not occur;
- excellent natural circulation.
- it will not be possible to install a large number of radiators;
- high consumption of components;
- does not heat a large area.
The chain is mounted taking into account three points:
- mandatory installation of an expansion tank at the top point of the supply pipe;
- if the coolant flow is natural, then a slight slope is taken into account when laying both pipes;
- the supply pipe goes to the batteries through the expansion tank.
Beam system with collectors
A collector is connected to the heating boiler - single thermal unit, from which each radiator in the room has its own branch. The collector is:
- simple;
- improved(with automatic temperature control).
This option is suitable for a two-story house. Departs from the collector from two to twelve knots- depending on the number of radiators in the house. If necessary, the number of layers is increased.
To the collector "comb" you can connect a pump- for forced circulation of liquid. And hide the structure itself in a closet so as not to spoil the aesthetics of the house.
- durability;
- ease of repair(no need to disconnect the entire circuit);
- temperature adjustment;
- uniform temperature in all rooms.
- price.
Reference! To somehow reduce the cost of pipes, it is better to install a manifold cabinet in the central part of the house.
Installation nuances:
- Typically, this system uses metal-plastic pipes. When installing into the floor, it is recommended to wrap each pipe in insulation so as not to injure it on the concrete during expansion.
- Recommended diameter is 16 mm.
- Do not route pipes through doorways- otherwise the pipe may be damaged when drilling.
- When laying through walls, it is recommended to install them in cartridges.
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With forced circulation
The built-in pump ensures rapid circulation of liquid in the system, which reduces heat loss along the path.
Increased speed prevents mixing of hot and cold water - the temperature in all rooms is equal.
By adjusting the flow rate of the coolant, the temperature in the room is controlled.
According to the project, a pump is built into the forced circulation system to accelerate the coolant.
- comfortable operation;
- possibility of choosing a mounted circuit(collector, one-, two-pipe);
- heating adjustment;
- increasing the service life of components;
- installation of pipes of smaller cross-section.
- pumping system increases initial installation costs;
- noise from a running pump;
- additional electricity costs.
Installation nuances:
Place of installation of the pump group depends on the method of pipe routing. Thanks to the artificial pressure inside the system, the slope is not installed.
With natural circulation
The liquid in the system, heating up, rises and goes into the radiators, where the coolant cools. The cold liquid sinks down. Pressure depends from the temperature difference. The cycle is closed.
- The boiler is installed below the level of the radiators.
- Branch pipes are smaller in diameter than the main pipe.
- A diagonal connection would be correct., in which hot water enters the radiator from above.
- To improve fluid circulation a slight slope is provided.
Install an expansion tank: if there is excess pressure, some of the liquid will flow into it, and if it falls, it will return back into the system.
- low cost;
- Possibility of installation of one- or two-pipe systems to choose from;
- easy repairs;
- does not clutter up the space;
- reliability;
- long service life.
Available only in single-pipe natural circulation systems:
- Uneven heat distribution: in rooms located closer to the boiler it is hot, in rooms further away it is cold.
- Additional expenses: To increase the temperature in cool rooms, batteries are built up or powerful radiators are installed.
- Increased fuel consumption(compared to pump type).
Installation nuances:
- Overheating protection is built into the circuit to prevent airing.
- Each radiator is equipped with a bypass, a thermostat and a Mayevsky tap.
In natural circulation circuits, only water is used (due to its density, antifreeze is not suitable).
Useful video
Watch a video review of a two-pipe heating system, connection options, pros and cons.
Readers.