Connection diagram of a pumping station with storage. How to properly install, connect and start up a pumping station? How to connect the station to the water supply

To solve the water supply problem, many owners of private houses use pumping stations.

These devices are now available for sale ready-made or can be purchased separately. Moreover, every person is capable of performing the installation pumping station in my house. The main thing is to know what elements this device consists of, how exactly it works, how to start the pumping station and in what place it is better to install it.

What do you need to know to choose a pumping station?

In order for the selected station to cope well with its functions, the choice must be made taking into account your needs. In this regard, you can highlight the following criteria, which must be primarily taken into account by the owner:

Technical characteristics of the pumping station;
Features of the well.

Considering specifications, first of all, the performance of the unit should be highlighted. The best option is a device capable of providing water pressure from a well, which can satisfy the needs directly in the house, as well as in the surrounding areas.

Based on practical experience, we can say that for normal living in a country house or residential building designed for 4 people, it is recommended to choose a device medium or low power. The design of such units includes a 20-liter hydraulic accumulator. Such a station is capable of supplying water from a well in an amount of 2-4 cubic meters. meters per hour and pressure 45-55 meters. An installation with such characteristics can fully satisfy the needs of a family of four.

When considering different installations, consideration should also be given to a number of other important indicators:

productivity;
size;
water level when the pump is turned off;
water level when the pump is running;
type of filter;
pipe width.

Any station has such a mandatory element as storage tank or hydraulic accumulator. It is worth saying that the installation with a storage tank is an outdated design due to the presence of a large number of shortcomings. First of all, the tank has a fairly large capacity. In addition, to regulate the water level and its pressure, a float is used, which ensures that the sensor is activated if the water level drops. In this case, the sensor sends a signal to turn on the pumping.

The main disadvantages the following can be mentioned:

Water is supplied to the system naturally, which is why the pressure at the outlet is insufficient;
Due to the large size of the unit, it is not always possible to find a suitable place to install it;
The system installation process is accompanied by certain difficulties;
It is important to allocate space for the storage tank at the station itself, and this is fraught with additional problems;
If the water level sensor fails, it overflows over the edge of the tank.

Installations equipped with a hydraulic accumulator are the most reliable and practical. Their popularity is due small in size and the absence of installation difficulties. The system design contains a relay that performs the duties of regulating the ambient air pressure limit.

By creating water pressure, it is compressed in the hydraulic accumulator. At the moment when the pressure reaches the required limit, the pump automatically turns off, as a result of which water from the tank flows into the tap. If the level decreases, the pump turns on again and continues to operate until the required water level is again achieved.

For the pump, you can choose a place directly in the house or in the caisson. The last option is structure built in the ground. This design provides it with protection from moisture, groundwater and low temperatures. It must be built under the soil freezing line. However, this option has several disadvantages. First of all, such a structure requires proper arrangement. In addition, in areas where harsh climatic conditions are observed, it is difficult to insulate the caisson, as a result, when exposed to low temperatures, there is a risk of pump failure.

The most practical solution seems to be to install a pump in the house. It is best to install it in the basement. However, one important point needs to be mentioned here: you should be prepared for the fact that groundwater can create threat of basement flooding. Therefore, during spring floods, when the room is filled with water, it is recommended to install the station on a hill so that water does not reach it. You need to choose a place for the station so that it is away from the walls, which will prevent unnecessary vibrations during operation. When placing the pump in the basement, you must constantly monitor temperature conditions throughout the year, thereby protecting the installation from the effects of negative temperatures.

Rules for choosing a place

To select a suitable location for a pumping station, installation in which should take place in accordance with the technology, you need based on the following criteria:

The distance at which the station will be removed from the well;
Temperature and humidity conditions in the location chosen for installation;
Availability of free space so that you can easily repair and maintain the unit;
Carrying out work to insulate the premises to limit the spread of noise towards residential premises.

Pumping station connection diagram

To properly install a pumping station with your own hands, you need stick to the following order doing this job:

A prerequisite for the installation technology of the pump is its placement on a special basis. The legs must be fixed to the base using anchors. As a result, it will be possible to ensure increased stability of the structure. To minimize vibrations, the pump should be mounted on a rubber mat.

Connecting a pumping station with your own hands in a private house with remote ejector is performed in accordance with the following algorithm:

Installation errors

During the installation of the pumping station there is risk of making mistakes:

Conclusion

Owners of private houses solve the problem of providing water somewhat differently than owners of city apartments. Having a pumping station in the house, they can always use water in required quantity, connecting it to the well. However, to do this, you need to correctly install the pumping station in a private house with your own hands. The installation process itself does not seem so complicated, but here there are certain nuances, which many owners are most often unaware of. Therefore, you need to very carefully study the main points of station installation technology, while performing preliminary calculations.

After purchasing a water supply device, the question arises of connecting it to. How labor-intensive is this and how can I make sure everything works exactly? How to connect a pumping station to a well with your own hands, without the help of specialists? All this can be learned from the article.

Choosing an installation location

There are two options.

First. If water from the well is used only in the summer, and there are no options in the house, you can connect the pumping station to the well according to a temporary (seasonal) scheme. This means that during the winter some of the pipelines that might have thawed can be disassembled and reassembled in the spring. It is possible not to disassemble the water supply system, but then it is necessary to provide drainage fittings for emptying the pipelines for the winter, and also carefully maintain the slopes of the pipes to eliminate the possibility of incomplete emptying of the pipes. In this case, there are no requirements for placement in an insulated room. Water points can be located wherever it is convenient. The main thing is that in this case there is no need to lay a stationary anti-freeze pipe and, most importantly, there is no need to install this pipe into a well in the ground.

Second. In the case of year-round use of water and its use in the home plumbing, it is necessary to install a water pipe into the house. The pipe should be buried below the soil freezing level; this level should be determined based on whether the installation site belongs to a specific geographic area. If this is not possible, you can use various methods of electrical heating of pipelines. The pipe insertion into the well must be absolutely sealed. It is better to supply water to the house after the final formation of the well, simultaneously with the installation of a well clay castle.

When installing a pumping station based on a surface pump outside the well shaft, it should be taken into account that even if the required level difference between the pump and the water level is maintained, the additional load on the suction pipeline is exerted by the length of its horizontal section. It is advisable to minimize the distance in order to properly connect the pumping station and well. To make approximate calculations, keep in mind that one meter vertically is equivalent to four meters horizontally. For example, when installing a pumping station in a well, the horizontal length will be 8 meters, then the suction depth is reduced by two meters.

When connecting a pumping station to a submersible well, the same principles remain. The only difference is that the automation is installed indoors, and the pump itself is lowered into the well.

The figure shows the pump configuration.

Connecting the pumping station

You need to assemble an ejector; it is a unit with three output connections.
Insert a filter into the lower connection.
We selected a 32 mm diameter rod of the required length and now we put it on the upper connection of the ejector.
To connect the parts correctly, we assemble the assembly required diameter. This can be done from a pair of parts that are connected together with an adapter.
After assembling the flow, we install a bronze coupling at its outlet. With its help, access to the pipe will be provided.
We will seal the connections. To do this, you can use flax or sealing paste.
If the installation of the station takes place outside, then at this stage laying the pipeline in trenches is required.
- When making calculations, do not forget to slightly increase the required pipe length for some margin;
- a cap must be placed at the end of the casing; if it is difficult to find, you can replace the part with an elbow with a non-sharp angle;
- now insert the other end of the pipe at an angle of 90 degrees into the elbow and lower it; for sealing, use foam for installation;
- We also connect the pipe with the corner adapters located on it at angles of 90 degrees, and the adapters are the connecting link with the outer pipes;
- To connect the pipes to the ejector, use couplings.
When installing the station underground, the ejector is lowered into the well to a pre-marked required depth.
The connection to the casing pipe is made using plumbing tape.

The ejector immersion mark should be at the same height as the casing outlet.

The installation points for the pumping station in the well remain the same for the option of a surface station location. Only the moments of installing a pipeline in a trench and an ejector underground are excluded.

First start-up and verification of correct installation

For initial start-up, the pump must be filled with water. To do this, you should provide a special filler funnel, cut off from the pump by a shut-off valve. A more convenient option for initial filling is pumping the pumping station with a manual piston pump connected at the outlet of the station.

The pump is controlled by a pressure switch.

It is connected to the hydraulic system and has a spring-loaded diaphragm (bellows) that transmits water pressure to the electromechanical part of the relay. The relay ensures that the contacts close when the pressure drops below the set one (switch-on pressure) and open when the switch-off pressure is reached. Usually the value of the lower pressure is directly adjusted by adjusting the compression force of the corresponding spring. The second adjustment is responsible for the pressure difference between turning the pump on and off.

You can determine what pressure values are set by looking at the pressure gauge on the supply pressure line. In the absence of flow ( closed taps) turn on the station and wait until it turns off. The pressure gauge will show the cut-off pressure. Open the water tap (it’s more convenient to be near the station), and slowly release the pressure. When the station is turned on, record the turn-on pressure. If the measured values do not suit you, remove the cover of the pressure switch and adjust the pressure values by rotating the corresponding nuts.

During the initial installation of the station and during its operation, it is necessary to maintain real parameter values in the operating range specified in the station passport. It is not recommended to force the pump to work, as they say, to wear out by increasing the pressure on the relay. This mode usually reduces the time between starting and stopping the pump. If the set pressure is significantly increased, the pump may go into mode without turning off at all, this means that the pump power is not enough to create the set pressure.

A simple tire pressure gauge is used to determine the available pressure. Naturally, before checking with a pressure gauge and installing the station, check the nipple. If air does not try to escape from it, then there may be a malfunction of both the nipple and the membrane itself. Be sure to keep in mind that it makes sense to measure air pressure only if there is no water pressure in the membrane, for which it is necessary to bleed it off with the pump turned off.

The preset air pressure should be slightly higher than the pump activation pressure. Then, by the time of start-up, there will still be a small amount of water left in the tank.

The check valve ensures that water moves in the system only in one direction. The automation of the pumping station controls the pressure or the presence of flow in the pressure part of the water supply. This means that the check valve should always be installed so that the pressure at the installation site of the automation cannot spontaneously decrease. Depending on the specific conditions, the check valve can be installed directly at the inlet of the pumping station or at the end of the water intake pipe lowered into the well. Sometimes they are installed at both points.

When starting, the pump must be filled with water. This should also be taken into account when choosing a location to install a check valve. To protect the pumping station from sand, filters are sometimes installed on the water intake line. A check valve is often mounted at the end of the water intake pipe, combined with a mesh filter into one unit. Stations from surface pumps sometimes supplied with a rope filter at the inlet. Of course, you need to monitor its condition; as it becomes clogged, the suction depth will gradually decrease.

Video about connecting the station

The plot provides information necessary for clarity. How to assemble the station, as well as how to properly connect it to the well.

If the water in the well is deep enough, and the well shaft is made reliably and firmly, then the pumping station can be installed directly in the shaft.

To do this, a shelf is made in the shaft and carefully fixed to the wall, the size of which would allow the pumping station to be securely fastened. It is advisable to install rubber gaskets under the legs of the pumping station to reduce the impact of vibration of the operating station on the structure of the well. The level at which the shelf for the pump is made should be such that the vertical distance between the pumping station and the water level in the well does not exceed 6-8 meters.

A check valve with a strainer is attached to the end of the suction line, protecting the pump from large debris. All threaded connections It is recommended to use FUM tape or a synthetic sealing thread (for example, Tangit Unilock).

At the first moment there is no water in the pump, the pipes are dry, therefore, if you turn on the pump in this state, it will overheat and may fail. For initial start-up, our circuit provides a filling funnel. At the initial moment, with the pump disconnected from the power supply, by opening the initial filling tap and closing the tap on the pressure line, we fill the pump and suction line with water through a funnel. A check valve on this line will prevent water from flowing out of the pump. Having filled the system so that the water is in the filling funnel, close the tap on the filling line and turn on the pump.

Air pockets may occur in the cavity being filled. If everything is in order, the pump will immediately begin to suck in water and create pressure after itself. When the pressure rises to the set value, the pressure switch will turn off the pump. If the pump does not start to create pressure the first time, the procedure for initially turning on the pump must be repeated. Usually it has to be repeated several times, each time adding water through the funnel.

Is it possible to install a pumping station in a structure on the surface, without lowering it into a shaft? In the case where the water in the well is high, this can be done. The figure shows a diagram for switching on the station using a complete suction hose with a check valve installed on it and a threaded fitting for connection to the pump. The procedure for starting the station is similar to that described in the previous paragraph.

How to install a pumping station in a well may not always be clear. Moreover, when purchasing it, the consultant is unlikely to be able to reveal all the subtleties. Using the detailed information from the article, you can make the connection yourself.

Today, quite often, owners of country houses choose an autonomous water supply system, which allows them to satisfy the family’s water needs, as well as provide watering for the garden. To build such a system, it is not enough to dig a well or equip a well; you need to buy a pumping station, connect it correctly and start it up for the first time. In addition, for effective and long lasting performance operation of pumping stations must be carried out in compliance with all rules. In our article we will tell you how to properly connect and start the station, as well as use it throughout its entire service life.

In order for the first start-up and further operation of the water supply system to go smoothly, it is necessary to correctly install and connect the pumping station. First of all, you need to choose a suitable location for the station. This could be the basement country house, an extension to a house or a separate structure, as well as a caisson. If you are installing a station in the basement, then the room must be well insulated and soundproofed. An extension or a separate building should also be well insulated. The caisson is installed so that its bottom is located 2 m below the ground surface.

After this, you can connect to a well or well. In this case, depending on the depth of the hydraulic structure, a two-pipe or one-pipe connection scheme can be implemented. We will consider a more complex two-pipe connection option:

On the ejector, which should be equipped with a station that pumps water from a well or well more than 10 m deep, we find one of three pipes. It should be on the bottom of the part. We attach a coarse filtration mesh to it.
On the socket located in the upper part of the ejector, we put a squeegee with a diameter of 3.2 cm.
After this, it is necessary to select a bend for the diameter of the pipeline. Sometimes this requires the use of several parts with adapters.
We install a bronze coupling at the outlet of the drive. This will allow you to navigate to water pipe made of polyethylene. In this case, we seal all connections using tow or a special paste.
Now you need to dig a trench from the well to the house, the bottom of which will be below the freezing point of the soil. We lay the pipeline in the trench.

Advice: the length of the pipeline should be taken with a reserve, since it will not be possible to accurately take into account all the turns and bends; in addition, you need to take into account the thickness of the foundation of the house.

At the exit of the casing from the well, we install the head. Instead, you can use a knee with a smooth bend.
To connect the ejector to the water supply pipes you will need a coupling.
Before lowering it into the well, we pass the second end of the pipe through the elbow at an angle of 90 degrees.
After this, we seal the space using polyurethane foam. We connect the pipe to the corner adapter and the outer part of the water supply.
We secure the head to the outlet of the column using reinforced adhesive tape.

Preparing the hydraulic accumulator

The hydraulic tank can be installed in the basement of the house, since this unit builds up pressure in the system; water can be supplied even from water intake points located above the installation level of the hydraulic accumulator itself.

Important: in order for the entire water supply system to function optimally, it is necessary to correctly select the pressure in the hydraulic tank.

If the pressure is very high, this can cause the pump to start and stop very often, which will subsequently lead to its rapid wear. The reduced pressure in the air chamber will cause the bulb with water to overstretch, which will cause it to quickly fail.

Rules for preparing the hydraulic tank:

Before pumping air into the air chamber of the accumulator, you must make sure that the rubber bulb is empty. If there is water in it, drain it by opening the bottom tap.
After this, air is pumped into the chamber using a car pump. Pressure is also measured with a car pressure gauge. As a rule, the pressure in the hydraulic tank should be 10% less than the lower value. But since we have not yet set up the system and did not make the first start, we adjust the pressure like this:

for a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 20 to 25 liters, the pressure should be in the range from 1.4 to 1.7 bar;
for a storage tank with a volume of 50-100 l, the pressure is set in the range from 1.7 to 1.9 bar.

First start

Before starting the pumping station, it is necessary to fill the pump with water. To do this you need to do the following:

We unscrew the plug from the hole for filling water on the pump body. Sometimes a valve may be installed instead; open it.
After this, you need to fill the pump unit and suction pipeline with water. It is necessary to fill the liquid until water begins to pour out through the filler hole.

Before starting an automatic water supply station for a country house or cottage, you need to check the pressure in the accumulator. We described how to do this above. If the pressure is not normal, it can be increased by pumping air with a car pump, or decreased by releasing air through a special nipple on the hydraulic tank.

Rules for the first start of pumping equipment:

After filling the suction line and the pump unit with water, you must tighten the plug tightly or close the valve.
Connect the pump to the power supply.
Open the valve on the unit body slightly to ensure that any remaining air is removed from the pumping equipment.
The pump should run for 2-3 minutes. During this period of time, water should flow from the outlet of the pipeline or open tap.
If the liquid does not flow out of the pipe, you need to turn off the pumping equipment and add water again into the filler hole on the body.
After this, the startup attempt is repeated.

Automation check

After starting the pumping station, you need to check whether the automation is working correctly. If you purchased a pressure switch with factory settings, it should turn off the pumping equipment when the upper pressure threshold in the system set on the relay is reached. After opening the tap and water flowing out of the hydraulic tank, the pressure switch should start the pump again when the pressure in the system drops to the set minimum. If necessary, the factory settings can be changed by setting the relay to the on and off pressure you need. This is done like this:

We turn off the pumping equipment and drain the water from the hydraulic tank by unscrewing the bottom valve in the system. Open the cover on the pressure switch using a screwdriver or wrench.
We start the pumping equipment, which will begin to pump water into the hydraulic tank.
We detect and record the pressure gauge readings at the moment the pump is turned off. This will be the top pressure.
Now open the tap farthest from the pump or the tap that is located at the highest mark. As water flows out of it, the pressure will drop and the pump will start again. It is necessary to record and record the pressure gauge readings at the moment the pump starts. This will be the lower pressure. We find their difference.
During testing, you need to pay attention to the pressure of water flowing from the farthest or highest tap in the system. If you are not satisfied with it, then the pressure needs to be increased. To do this correctly, you need to turn off the pump and tighten the nut on the large spring in the relay. To reduce the pressure, on the contrary, we loosen this nut.
Now let's set the pressure difference. You have already found it by taking the recorded pressure gauge readings. If this number is 1.4 bar, then you do not need to adjust anything. If the value found is lower, this may lead to more frequent pump starts and uneven pressure, which will cause premature wear of the equipment. If the value is higher, then the station’s operating mode will be more gentle, but the difference between the maximum and minimum pressure will become noticeable. To adjust this parameter, you need to tighten or loosen the nut on the small spring in the relay. To increase the pressure difference, tighten the nut more, and to decrease it, loosen it.
When you have adjusted the pressure, you need to check the operation of the system again by repeating the previous steps. If necessary, the adjustment can be repeated.

If your pressure switch has no settings at all, that is, all the springs are completely weakened, then the adjustment is done as follows:

We start the pump and build up pressure in the pipeline so that the water pressure from the farthest or highest tap in the system is satisfactory. We note the pressure gauge readings and turn off the pump. Let us assume that the device showed at this moment a pressure of 1.3 bar.
Turn off the power to the station and open the cover on the pressure switch. We begin to tighten the nut on the large spring. When you hear a click of the contacts closing, we stop rotating.
Replace the cover and turn on the pump. We bring the pressure in the system to 2.7 bar. We obtained this value by adding our indicator of 1.3 bar with the recommended difference in values equal to 1.4 bar.
Disconnect the pump from the network, remove the cover and tighten the nut on the smaller spring. When the contacts open, you will hear a click. At this moment the rotation must stop.
After our settings, the pressure switch will start the pumping equipment when the pressure in the system drops to 1.3 bar, and turn off the pump when the pressure rises to 2.7 bar. Now all settings are completed. We install the relay cover in place, and connect the pump unit to the power supply.

Attention: the upper pressure setting on the relay should not exceed the limits for this pumping equipment under specific conditions of use.

Operating rules

The operation of pumping stations must be carried out in compliance with the following rules:

Once a month, as well as after a long period of inactivity or storage for the winter, it is necessary to check the air pressure in the accumulator.
Periodically it is necessary to clean the coarse filter installed on the horizontal section of the suction pipeline. If this is not done, then the water from the tap may flow in jerks, the performance of the pumping station will decrease, and a completely clogged filter can lead to the fact that the unit will not be able to pump water and will work “dry”, which will quickly fail. The frequency of cleaning the coarse filter depends on the concentration of impurities in the water pumped from a well or well.
The station must be located in a special dry and warm place.
The water supply pipeline must be protected from freezing in winter. To do this, the bottom of the trench where the pipes are laid must be below the freezing point of the soil. Otherwise, the pipeline is insulated and additionally heated with an electric heating cable, which is also laid in the trench.
If you will not use the station in winter, then all water from the system must be drained before frost sets in.

Video instructions for starting and operating the pumping station:

And in what cases is it justified to assemble a pumping station from disparate parts that can be bought in a store?

Why assemble the pumping station yourself.

First of all, it seems to me that you should assemble the pumping station yourself if you already have some of its components, usually the most expensive ones. This is a pump and a hydraulic accumulator. Because the cost of the pump is approximately half the cost of the pumping station, respectively, the hydraulic accumulator is approximately a third. That is, it makes no sense to buy a new pumping station if your accumulator is crushed in winter or the pump burns out for some reason. You can buy both separately and simply replace what is broken; fortunately, the pump fasteners and the hydraulic accumulator mounting platform are usually standard and you can connect one to the other without much difficulty.

Another reason to assemble a pumping station yourself may be a discrepancy between your requirements and the characteristics of the equipment of the finished pumping station. For example, you need a pump with higher pressure or water flow than the pumping stations offered to you, and what suits you in terms of characteristics does not suit you in terms of cost or reliability. Either the dimensions of the pumping station are too large for the place where you are going, or you are not satisfied with the capacity of the hydraulic accumulator, well, etc. You just need to keep in mind that the final cost of the pumping station may well be much more than what you planned.

The third, most common option is when you are forced to assemble a distributed pumping station due to very... As a rule, in this case a powerful submersible pump, and the hydraulic accumulator with the automation unit is installed somewhere at home.

Is a hydraulic accumulator really necessary?

A reasonable question: is it possible to do without a hydraulic accumulator? In principle, this is possible, but with a conventional automation unit the pump will turn on and off very often, reacting even to insignificant water flow. After all, the amount of water in the pressure pipeline is small, and the slightest flow of water will lead to a rapid drop in pressure and an equally rapid increase when the pump is turned on. It is precisely so that the pump does not turn on every time you “sneeze” that they install a hydraulic accumulator, at least a small one. Since water is an incompressible substance, air is pumped into the accumulator, which, unlike water, is highly compressible and acts as a kind of damper that regulates the accumulation and flow of water. If there is no air in the accumulator or too little air, then there will be nothing to compress, that is, there will be no accumulation of water.

Ideally, the capacity of hydraulic accumulators should be only slightly less than the debit of your water source, and the pump, in this case, will turn on only when some fairly decent supply of water has been used up, i.e. very rarely, but for a long time. But then it will be very expensive.

Now pumping stations with improved automation units with built-in dry-running protection have appeared on sale, which smoothly start and stop the pump and regulate its power depending on the set pressure. It is believed that, in principle, they do not need a hydraulic accumulator. But all this works well only in the absence of voltage surges, which our outback and holiday villages cannot boast of. And, unfortunately, stabilizers do not always save you from this disaster. In addition, the price of such a station is very often much higher than usual, which, it seems to me, does not justify itself.

Ready-made automation systems.

Wistan.

Of all the ready-made automation systems for pumping stations, our domestic development Vistan, designed exclusively for organizing a pumping station based on a vibration pump, especially stands out. I am not a supporter of the use of vibration pumps in water supply systems of private and country houses, but I cannot help but pay attention to this device due to the great popularity of “Kids”, “Rucheykov”, etc. in the post-Soviet space.

There are a lot of flattering reviews about this device on the Internet. In life, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. So, in short.

Advantages:

— Special development for vibration pumps;

— Automatically maintains the pressure in the system at 1.5-2.0 bar;

— Has built-in protection against dry running;

— Has a built-in voltage stabilizer, can work with voltage from 160 to 250 Volts;

— Can work without a hydraulic accumulator, smoothly changes the pump power;

— Smooth start and stop of the pump;

— Has protection against excess electric current: 5 Amp fuse;

— Automatically resumes operation when the parameters are restored: network voltage, the appearance of water pressure at the pump pressure (dry running).

— Easy to install and dismantle the circuit: the manufacturer recommends using a ½-inch flexible liner.

Flaws:

— The pump must create a pressure at the inlet to the device of at least 3.0 bar: not every vibration pump is capable of this, given the difference in height between the water surface in the well (well) and the location of the Wistan.

— Water flow is limited by the internal cross-section of the flexible line, or you need to install a hydraulic accumulator.

— Dry running protection is solved in a unique way: the device turns off the pump if the inlet pressure does not rise above 0.8 bar in 10 seconds. Those. There is actually water, and the pump pumps it properly, it just doesn’t have enough strength to raise the pressure to the required level.

— There is no way to regulate the pressure in the system.

— High price of the device compared to the cost of vibration pumps. The cost of the “Wistan + pump” set is comparable to the cost of a ready-made pumping station, which is not of the poorest quality (and the Chinese ones are one and a half times cheaper).

In general, this option for organizing a pumping station is suitable for summer residents who are accustomed to their vibration pumps and are not spoiled by the benefits of civilization in the country. In addition, the system is easy to assemble in the spring before use and disassemble in the fall, taking the entire household with you to the city and without fear of it being stolen or torn apart by frost. For a more serious water supply system at home, this device, like its use, is unlikely to be suitable.

Automation unit for centrifugal pumps.

To organize a pumping station based on, no matter submersible or surface, an automation unit is required. The simplest thing is to assemble it yourself using purchased elements: a manifold, a pressure switch, a pressure gauge. But you can also buy a ready-made unit on which all this will already be installed. All that remains is to install it on the pump head in a place convenient for maintenance.

Various companies offer a wide variety of such blocks, differing in configuration and cost. The simplest and most inexpensive ones include only the necessary elements mentioned above. Blocks that have a dry-running sensor added will cost a little more. The most sophisticated are the automation units, which independently, by adjusting the power of the pump, maintain the set pressure in the system, and also have several (up to three) protections against various unpleasant things (dry running, pump overload, rupture of the pressure pipeline).

Collector.

Actually, everyone is free to make their own choice. For some it is easier to assemble such a block themselves, for others it is easier to buy it. It seems to me that the only drawback of such blocks, besides the price, is their block nature. Those. If something breaks as part of such an automation unit, then the entire unit will have to be replaced, and this can sometimes be expensive.

Schemes of pumping stations.

The most common scheme of a pumping station is when all its elements are assembled together, as one reader wrote: “pump on a barrel.” In this case, the automation unit is placed at the pump head, and water is directed to the hydraulic accumulator through a separate pipe or flexible connection. It turns out that you can install a pump and a hydraulic accumulator (HA) in different places by simply replacing the outlet to the HA with a longer one.

But the best option would be to install the automation unit on the GA by connecting the unit’s manifold to the pump with a pipe. Then we get a distributed pumping station, where the pump can be located, for example, in a well (or in a well for a submersible pump), and the HA is located in a warm house.

Continuing to improve our scheme, we can find the most convenient place for the automation unit. I think this place is the distribution manifold cold water, where the automation unit will maintain constant pressure (after all, this is exactly what we need). The hydraulic accumulator, in this case, can be placed under the bathtub or in any other free place in the bathroom, and a pressure pipeline will be connected to the pump. The pump itself can be placed closer to the source of water supply and away from the house, so as not to hear its noise, or you can buy a submersible pump (again, no noise in the house).

Thus, by placing the elements of the pumping station in those places where it is convenient and not conspicuous, you will receive maximum comfort during operation: “like in an apartment.” The main thing is not to forget what and where you stuffed it.

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Reviews (324) on “We assemble the pumping station ourselves.”

Hello,

Great site. I found the information I've been looking for for a long time
Please help me decide on a pump. We are talking about water supply country house. The system has been working for about 20 years without problems, however, everything becomes unusable. The house has a 500 liter storage tank, which is filled from a well (small debit) by a pump automatically. Next OK-NS (saer tk1, RD and ha included) - shower, sink, toilet, kitchen. Last year the GA broke. I changed it to a larger 50L. The result is a scheme OK-NS+RD-GA-water intake. However, the pump does not pump more than 1.8 atm. I decided to change the pump, it worked. I just can’t decide which one to choose - vortex or centrifugal. As I understand it, with this scheme, self-priming is not necessary (the pump is below the tank and will fill itself with water). The old pump seemed to cope (saer-kf1). But the question is about noise. As you wrote correctly, the old vortex squeals and is not particularly comfortable at night, but how will the centrifugal one behave under such a scheme? And is it worth installing a more powerful pump? I read somewhere that when the voltage drops, a weak pump cannot cope.

Hello, Ruslan.
If the noise level of the pump is critical to you, then centrifugal ones without an ejector are best suited for your design (with such a flat body, as if a pancake with legs was attached to the engine, with a suction hole exactly in the middle of the pancake). Their main source of noise is the engine itself. It’s just that it’s very difficult to select a pump based on their characteristics.
The fact is that such pumps, as a rule, have a very high flow rate (performance) at a low pressure. Those. a flow rate of 100 liters per minute at a head of 20-25 meters is normal for such pumps. However, they are reliable, are not afraid of “dry running” (with a brass wheel) and are almost insensitive to changes in consumption, i.e. almost always give the same pressure.

The second noisiest, but more appropriate in terms of characteristics, is a pump with a built-in “short” ejector with a cast iron or plastic body. In appearance, the body resembles a hemisphere with two holes or pipes. In it, together with the engine, the pump begins to make noise, namely, the noise of the water circulating in the ejector (mid-frequency noise with high-frequency harmonics), plus low-frequency vibrations (noise) created by the movement of water in the impeller. Overall quite quiet and not annoying.

Accordingly, the “longer” the built-in ejector, the more mid-frequency noise is added due to the longer path of water along the narrowing of the ejector. And it is this noise that begins to irritate. These are the next noisiest pumps with an elongated cast iron casing.
If the body is made of stainless steel (beautiful, of course), then the resonant frequencies of its thin metal “come into play.” However, the better the pump, the less disgusting they are.
Well, vortex pumps, as you correctly noted, squeal when pressure builds up.

Another quiet option: put two in a daisy chain circulation pump with a “wet” rotor, but with pressures of at least 15 meters (this is rare, but you can find it). Just under no circumstances should they be vortex-type (although what does a “wet rotor” have to do with it?) In this combination, even the engines will hum very quietly. You won't hear the pumps at all.

Thank you very much for your answer. Stupid question. What's wrong with high consumption? After all, more than will spill through the tap. I don't need a lot of pressure. Vertically a maximum of 2 meters and horizontally a maximum of 20.

Nothing, Ruslan. Only the greater the maximum nominal flow rate of the pump, the greater the minimum required flow rate through it without the occurrence of cavitation, and in the limit of the occurrence of “dry” running. Cavitation itself is more or less dangerous for a pump made of any material. The “softer” the material, the more dangerous: the faster erosion of the impeller will reduce the performance of the pump. Typically, the minimum flow rate through a household pump is 0.6 m3/hour. This is 10 liters per minute. And this is another reason for using GA in autonomous water supply systems.
Basically, cavitation heating (the main consequence of “dry running”) is dangerous for plastic pump parts. This is most often a built-in ejector, but it can also be an impeller. Therefore, to minimize the effects of cavitation heating, as a result of minimal flow through the pump, all pump parts must be made, at a minimum, of metal.
By the way, vortex pumps have a different problem. It is not cavitation that is to blame, but abrasives contained in any water. They grind off the pressure separating ridge inside the pump housing. Accordingly, both pressure and flow decrease over time.

Vadim, thank you.
Now it’s more or less clear. It turns out that if you open the tap slightly, cavitation will occur. But shouldn't the RD turn off the pump in this case? After all, as I understand it, the pressure will rise sharply. Or will this lead to frequent on/off switching? Or am I misunderstanding?
Thank you. I apologize for perhaps stupid questions.

All this is both true and not true at the same time, Ruslan. When discussing such subtleties, details are very important. And the most important thing is that you need to consider the operation of the SYSTEM, and not a separate PUMP. In short...
And if we consider the operation of a serviceable, correctly configured system, then... “if you open the tap slightly, then...”
1. Water will flow not from the pump, but from the HA, until the pressure in the system becomes equal to the pump activation pressure.
2. RD turns on the pump.
3. The pump lifts water from the source, pumping it into the system.
4. Part of the water goes directly to the “slightly” open tap, the other part goes to replenish supplies in the GA. At the same time, the pressure in the system rises (if the total flow through the tap and in the gas pump is less than the pump capacity).
5. The RD turns off the pump when the pressure in the system becomes equal to the shutdown pressure.
If the tap remains “slightly” open, the cycle repeats.
And now - the nuances:
1. Even in this cycle, with a working and correctly configured system, with a correctly selected pump, for several seconds before turning off the pump operates in a critical mode, with the formation of cavitation or close to it. In general, it's not scary.
2. If the pump’s performance is so high that the number of cycles per minute is more than two, then the pump (and the engine) do not have time to cool down after critical conditions. For an engine this is a start-up, for a pump it is a cavitation mode before stopping.
3. If the system is faulty or incorrectly configured, the duration and (or) frequency of critical modes can increase multiple times, up to constant “dry” running and (or) very frequent switching on and off of the pump, and, as a result, failure of the pump.

Therefore, it is so important to select the equipment CORRECTLY (or close to it) and configure the SYSTEM for long (and happy) operation of all its elements.

Vadim, thanks for the clarification.
Please forgive me for being so meticulous, but I want to ask a couple more questions.
1. I calculated the pump as shown in the article on the website. The pressure turned out to be 25 meters. My system is installed in such a way that the length of the cold water pipe to the farthest point of disassembly is almost 2 times shorter than the hot water pipe running through the water heater. To calculate the horizontal section, I took only the length of the hot end (as the longest). Is this correct, or should we also take into account the cold end?
2. The search for a centrifugal pump that produces a flow rate of about 24 l/min turned out to be almost futile. As you wrote, the majority either do not have the required pressure, or the flow rate at such pressure is much more than required. The only thing that seems to be close is Calpeda NM 2. The flow rate is about 40 l/min at a pressure of 25 meters. Will it be possible to use it, or is it too much (GA in the system is 50 liters, the pump is located half a meter from the tank, below the intake level)?

Thank you in advance.

Greetings, Ruslan.
Actually, the answers (sorry, but I don’t have much time right now):
1. You did everything right. Otherwise, hot water will flow with much less pressure. You will have to constantly adjust the adjustment on the mixer. There is no need to take into account the additional length of the “cold end”. Calculations need to be made only for the longest pipe.
2. Kalpeda are very good pumps.
3. Passport costs and pressures are relative concepts. Actual flow rates and pressures may vary greatly from those stated due to system conditions. As you correctly noted last time, the pump will not be able to produce more than what flows from the tap.
In your case, pauses will be sufficient due to the capacity of the HA, the consumption of which will be at least about 1-2 minutes. Then, perhaps, the pump will pump up the HA in half a minute or a minute. In general, these are quite acceptable operating conditions for the pump. In reality, most likely, the pause time and pump operation will be longer.
Or, if you are asking about additional water collection points, then, of course, it is possible. With such pump parameters, you will have a very large flow reserve at the maximum possible pressure.

Hello.
Good article.
My station is assembled according to the following scheme: well-return valve-pump-accumulator-pressure switch-automation unit.
And here’s the peculiarity: first, after switching on, the pump works for about 1-2 minutes, then a break for 20-30 seconds, and again it works with good pressure.
It seems that it first uses up the reserve in the battery, then accumulates water and repeats the cycle again.
It should be?
Or maybe remove the extra pressure switch?
Or incorrect assembly diagram?

Hello, Sergey.
No, it shouldn't be like that. And this is a consequence of the installation of two automation systems, possibly operating on different principles of turning the pump on and off. I wonder how your pump is connected to these systems electrically: in series or in parallel? Most likely, in parallel. And these 20-30 seconds of break arose due to the difference in the automation settings.
What to do?
It is necessary to remove one of the automation systems. And depending on which system you remove, or rather, on what principle the remaining one will work, you may have to change the general scheme.
If you leave the pressure switch, you won't have to change anything. It operates from the pressure in the system, and it doesn’t matter where it stands, as long as it’s after the pump.
If you leave an automation unit, which possibly works by measuring water flow and (or) pressure, then it must be placed between the pump and the hydraulic accumulator (HA) in the direction of water movement, so that the automation “feels” the filling of the HA and stops the pump only after the flow stops .
Although, in fairness, it must be said that if the system has a sufficiently powerful pump, then the result may be the same on-off cycle: First, water is consumed from the gas pump, the pressure drops, the automation (pressure switch) turns on the pump, it pumps to the consumer, and in the HA until the pressure rises to the cut-off pressure. Then the cycle repeats.
If the automation unit operates on a flow, then it will not turn off the pump as long as there is flow to the consumer and (or) the gas pump. But again, if there is no pressure limit.

Good evening, please help me with the choice. Private house, city water supply, no water pressure (not at all), washing machine erases, you have to interrupt the program, Good times It’s not clear when they will come, they decided to install a storage tank of 500 liters. The question is in the pumping station, is a hydraulic accumulator needed, I read a lot, the principle of operation is clear, in stores they say that only a pump and automation are needed, but I am tormented by doubts, maybe with a hydraulic system, analysis for 5 -6 points, The site is informative, thanks for your efforts. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE, sorry for the long wording

Hello, Semyon.
The presence or absence of a hydraulic accumulator (HA) in the system depends on the type of automation being installed, and only on it.

GA is definitely needed when used in a mechanical pressure switch (MPS) system.

It is not necessary to install a GA (but it is possible, and in some cases, desirable) if the system uses automation with a smooth (discrete) engine start system.
As a rule, electronic control units (ECUs) already include a dry-running protection system, a small GA (from 0.4 to 1.0 liters) with a spring membrane and a smooth (discrete, i.e. stepwise) engine start system, limiting the starting current of the motor. The exception is blocks based on the same RDM, which, in fact, are not ECUs.

It is not necessary to install a GA (but it is still possible, and only in some cases it is harmful) if the system uses inverter automation with the function of maintaining the pump engine speed required for the system to operate.

The specifics depend on the device, principle and algorithm of operation of the specific automation.

Hello. I have a centrifugal water flow pump in my well. Tell me, is it possible to install only an automation unit in the house? (Without hydrophore) The pressure is very strong. And there is no storage capacity. And create a branch for the washing machine and sink?

Hello Svetlana.
Yes, you can. But the automation must be special, not a simple pressure switch (RPM). And an automation unit with flow control according to some principle (float, impeller, etc.). Accordingly, with protection against dry running, and, preferably, control and adjustment of upper and lower pressure. For example, Gilex 9001 (float, 0.7 liter HA, pressure adjustment), AquaRobot TurbiPress 1.5 (impeller, shutdown when flow stops, no adjustments), PressControl from Aquario or Pedrollo (float, HA, adjustments ), BRIO-5, BRIO-2000 from ItalTekhnika and others like that.

Many owners of country houses have a question about how to provide the house and the area around it with water.

Of course, if the family is small and the dacha is used exclusively in the summer, then a regular pump will be enough.

But if the family is large and the country house remains habitable throughout the year, then you need to design an entire water supply system. To do this, you can use a pumping station, which will supply your house and area with water quickly and without problems. How to install it yourself and connect it to a well or a well in this article.

Types of equipment

Such pumping units are used in cases where the water supply comes from a well or borehole.

Divided into two types:

automatic;
self-priming.

Automatic pumping stations, in turn, are divided into three types:

Vortex. Such pumps are installed only indoors, as they are very sensitive to changes in atmospheric pressure. The vortices that create pressure in the pump are created using a paddle wheel. The disadvantage of a vortex station is that a certain pressure is already required to start it.
Centrifugal. This type of system is used for wells, as it is able to withstand temperature changes that occur in the hose. Thanks to its structure, the centrifugal station creates pressure that can lift water from very great depths.
Sewer. Such installations are very large in size and consist of pumps, sensors, filters and pipelines.

Good to know: Centrifugal and sewage pumping stations are submersible. They are used when water is deep underground.

How to properly mount to a well or borehole

The first thing you need to do is determine where the pumping station will be located.

This can be a room inside the house (for example, a basement) or a coffer (this is a waterproof chamber that is located outside the house).

In order to connect the system to a well or borehole you must:

The station legs must be attached to the surface. This is done using a special fastener - an anchor.
Lower the hose into the well (well). You need to be careful not to lower the hose to the very bottom, so that when pumping out water, various debris and dirt do not get into it. It is enough to raise it one meter from the bottom of the well.
One end of a polyethylene pipe is required, which is placed in a well or well. But, before lowering it, it is necessary to attach a coupling (connecting element) to the pipe. To ensure that the pipe is constantly filled with water, you need to install a check valve and then a filter.
The second end of the pipe, through pre-laid trenches, is led directly to the house’s water supply.

Note: To avoid installation errors, before laying pipes in trenches, it is advisable to calculate the length of the pipe in advance. To do this, you need to take into account the number of bends and the thickness of the foundation.

Water connection

As a rule, the pumping station is connected to the water supply if there is not enough pressure for the heating equipment.

In order to connect the system to the water supply you need:

The water pipe must be disconnected at a certain point.
The end of the pipe that comes from the central line is connected to the storage tank.
The pipe from the tank is connected to the pump inlet, and the pipe that is connected to its outlet goes to the pipe that leads to the house.
Laying electrical wiring.
Equipment adjustment.

Check valve

The check valve is considered the most important element in the water supply system. Its main purpose is to prevent leakage.

In order for the system to work continuously, it must always be filled with water. A check valve prevents water from flowing out of the system by allowing water to flow in only one direction.

This element consists of a spring and a locking element, which are located in the cylinder. As a rule, such an element is placed either in the area in front of the station or at the inlet of the suction pipe. The presence of a check valve allows you to avoid filling the station with water before each operation.

It is better to install the check valve in a vertical position (the arrow on the body should point upward). This will increase the service life of the element.

Of course, it can also be installed horizontally, only then during operation will dirt settle on its walls, which can lead to clogging.

Correct harness

Pumping station piping is the connection of pumping supply to the pipeline and other components.

This is done as follows:

Install the system on a horizontal plane.
The station is connected to the pipeline through a vibration isolator. It blocks vibration when the system is operating.
Shut-off valves are then secured to allow the pump to be shut off in the event of repairs.
Installing a strainer on the wicking line.
For ease of use of the system, it is recommended to install pressure gauges.
Installation of check valves.

Launch

Before starting the system, it is necessary to check the serviceability and compliance of all elements and adjust the air pressure in the accumulator.

After this, the pumping station and suction line must be filled with water (this is done through a special hole in the pump).

Then it must be connected to the electrical network for a smooth start and the pressure and automation checked.

The station should not be started very often, otherwise the engine will overheat. The rate of starts is up to 20 times in one hour (the exact figure must be indicated in the technical data sheet of the system). Then, during operation, it is necessary to control the air pressure in the accumulator (1.5 atmospheres).