In the absence of snow Plants that have completed growth in a timely manner, many varieties of raspberries, can withstand:
- in September frosts are -10 °C,
- in October -15...20°,
- in November -20...25°,
- in December -25...30 °C.
Since January, stability has been maintained if there are no thaws. Temperature fluctuations reduce hardening.

In February-March after thaws plants are damaged at -20..25 °C, and at the beginning of the growing season (“bud opening”) - at -10 °C.
Under the snow cover raspberries overwinter at temperatures on its surface -40...45 °С.

Nevertheless, damage to raspberries in winter does occur. We provided these moments in the form of drawings - Fig. 1-4.

Damage to the integumentary tissues of raspberries in winter (Fig. 1-2)

1. External covering tissues cracked and peeled as a result of a sharp change in weather in the autumn: early snow, which then melts, rain and snow, a drop in temperature to -20 ° C and deep thaws.

2. Frozen and dried out unripe ends of stems and buds on them. This happens more often in the fall with a sharp onset of cold weather after a rainy summer, or for other reasons for untimely completion of growth. It has virtually no effect on productivity.

3. Frozen stem and bud tissues.

4. The stems are frozen and the buds on them are up to the level of snow due to low temperatures and temperature changes with strong dry winds in the middle of winter. The yield decreases in accordance with the number of dead buds.

5. Stem tissues are frozen at snow level; this usually happens on sunny February days with low snow cover with a rough ice crust on its surface and with periodic snow settling. The harvest is possible with abundant regular irrigation or only on powerful branches from the lower buds.

6. Kidneys are frozen in the middle of the stems - “on an arc” that appears on the surface of the snow with poor shelter for the winter. The reason is temperature fluctuations in the middle of winter. The harvest is declining.

7. Frozen young shoots in spring.

Freezing of raspberries in winter (Fig. 3-4)

1. Vascular bundles are frozen. The phenomenon is frequent, it affects the yield, but not significantly.

2. The growth cone froze. The branches develop, but often subsequently dry out. In parallel with the main bud, the additional bud also begins to grow, thanks to this the yield is almost not reduced.

3. Frozen embryonic inflorescence of the main bud.

4. The embryonic leaves also froze and inflorescence.

5. Basic kidney died almost completely, development is only carried out by M due to additional development. The yield is noticeably reduced.

In harsh winters with little snow, there is a very high probability of raspberry shoots freezing (this is often observed in Belarus). It must be borne in mind that the culture of modern raspberries without special protection is not winter-hardy enough. However, winter-hardy raspberry varieties (for example, Siberian varieties Sayanka, Barnaulskaya, Alma-Ata) can withstand severe frosts of -30...-40 degrees only if there are no alternations of frost and thaw in winter. But these varieties are not of great interest to gardeners due to their small fruits.

Almost all new raspberry varieties are either introduced (brought from Canada, the USA, Western Europe), or hybrids of these varieties, obtained in various zones of Russia (mainly in the Moscow region and the Central Black Earth Region), in Ukraine.

The degree of winter hardiness of raspberries largely depends on the timely cessation of shoot growth and tissue ripening before the onset of frost. Therefore, all measures for successful overwintering of cultivated raspberries should be aimed specifically at tissue ripening.
In dry areas, regular irrigation of raspberries is required throughout the season for the full development and timely ripening of shoots.
Mulching in a raspberry garden (anything can serve as mulch for raspberries: fine rotted manure, peat, sawdust, straw, etc.) helps retain moisture in the soil. When mulching raspberries with sawdust in the spring, you will have to feed the plants with nitrogen. I mulch raspberries with manure in any form. Mulch from manure not only protects raspberry roots, but also feeds them: earthworms quickly convert manure into vermicompost - the most accessible fertilizer for plants.

In forest raspberries, with a low nitrogen content in the soil, shoot growth ends in a timely manner, leaves fall, and tissues ripen. Therefore, wild raspberries generally survive winter safely, despite the lack of care. In nature, raspberries grow in protected places - along the edges of forests, in forest clearings, in hollows, where there is practically no wind and a lot of snow accumulates in winter. But in production conditions and among amateur gardeners, raspberries are often grown on open plantations, blown by all the winds.

Until now, a significant part of the cultivated raspberry varieties remains unadapted to the local climate. Most of the imported varieties of cultivated raspberries go into winter with green leaves. Therefore, these shortcomings have to be compensated for by preparing the raspberries for wintering: carefully removing the leaves, bending them low and tying up the shoots, and covering them with snow.

Analysis of the winter hardiness factor of raspberries

Everything that is written below applies to raspberries that are not bent down for the winter and not covered with snow.

Winter hardiness- one of the main indicators of adaptation of raspberry varieties to new growth conditions. Non-winter-hardy raspberry varieties cannot be made winter-hardy by any agricultural techniques; they can only be protected from winter damage.

Due to the climate characteristics of some regions, isolated significant frosts in late autumn, early winter and spring (about -18...-20 degrees, which sometimes occurs, for example, in November or March) are dangerous for cultivated raspberries. In the absence of snow, a significant part of forest raspberries also often freezes during these periods.

Raspberry varieties that since the beginning of autumnundergo hardening in a timely manner(that is, the shoots quickly become frost-resistant) and are able to withstand fairly severe frosts. However, many raspberry varieties do not have the “autumn component” of winter hardiness: after early frosts, the bushes no longer produce a consistently high yield, even in the case of a mild winter.

The second important point when assessing the winter hardiness of raspberries is the ability of the variety to withstand the lowest temperatures in a given zone.

The third component of raspberry winter hardiness is the ability of the variety not to lose hardening to low temperatures during the thaw period. In changeable weather conditions in winter, only those raspberry varieties are preserved whose shoots do not lose their hardening during the thaw period. Sometimes there is enough thaw within a day, and then many varieties of raspberries are left without a harvest. Often, after a long winter thaw, the temperature drops within a day from slightly positive to the usual frost of -17...-20 degrees, which can be disastrous for the harvest of many varieties of raspberries.

The fourth component of the winter hardiness of a raspberry variety is its ability to regain hardening to low temperatures after winter thaws.
Thus, winter thaws are no less dangerous for raspberries than maximum frosts. Even many Siberian raspberry varieties cannot withstand thaws.

For overwintering raspberries, it is of particular importance winter drying outshoots. Drying of raspberries is observed in areas with strong winter winds during the warming period. In such a situation, the thawed wood of raspberry shoots, under the influence of the wind, releases more water than is necessary to retain moisture for the further life of the shoot tissue (after all, during this period, moisture does not enter the shoots from the root system).
Drying of raspberry shoots mainly occurs in large open areas in early spring, when the air temperature is already positive and the soil is still frozen. In case of prolonged and severe frosts, due to weakening under the influence of very dry weather, raspberry shoots can also dry out in winter.

How to understand why raspberry shoots died in winter?
If raspberries are damaged by frost during the spring activation of growth processes, the wood of the shoots and the base of the buds necessarily turn brown.
If the death of raspberry shoots occurred due to drying out, then browning of the shoots is not observed; then the bark of the shoots may have a wrinkled appearance.

The raspberry root system is significantly more frost-resistant than many fruit and berry crops and can withstand temperatures in the root layer of soil down to -16 degrees or more. Therefore, if during frosts there is a sufficient layer of snow on the soil surface (at least 25 cm), then the raspberry root system does not freeze even at temperatures of -36 degrees and below, as can be seen after harsh winters.

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Proper care of raspberries in spring is the key to a bountiful harvest. Erroneous actions of the gardener during this period can lead to poor fruiting of the raspberry tree not only in the coming season, but also the next year. Despite the apparent unpretentiousness of raspberries, you need to know some rules and secrets that will help you get the maximum of tasty, large berries.

The list of required spring work includes:

Pruning raspberries after winter;

Feeding;

Treating raspberries against pests.

Spring raspberry care

It starts with tying up the bushes. This should be done as early as possible in order to have time to carry out all the work before active sap flow begins. Buds that are already ready to open are very easy to break off, and this leads to the loss of part of the harvest. In central Russia, the raspberry growing season begins when the snow melts and above-zero temperatures set in (approximately at the beginning - the second half of April). IN northern regions(for example, in Buryatia) work in the raspberry field begins later - at the end of April-beginning of May.

The ground in spring is very soft; Be careful not to trample it while working. Too dense soil, especially clay soil, interferes with the normal growth of raspberries. Experienced gardeners recommend laying “paths” of boards in the raspberry field.

How to prune raspberries in spring?

Spring pruning is carried out in two stages. First of all, you need to remove shoots affected by the pest - raspberry gall midge. Traces of the vital activity of gall midges can be detected with the naked eye, especially while there are no leaves on the bushes. Damaged, heavily frozen and weak shoots are also removed. Regardless of the form of planting raspberries (bush or strip), thinning is carried out, since thickening of plantings has a bad effect on the yield. With the tape form of cultivation, up to 25 stems are left per linear meter, with the bush form - 8-12. It is advisable to prune raspberries so that they grow more or less freely, otherwise they receive little sun and nutrition. Some experts recommend maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm between the remaining stems.

The raspberries are pruned the second time when they begin to grow. The tops of the shoots are shortened to the first well-overwintered bud. Identifying this bud is easy: it should be normal size and color and look as ripe as the others.

If you prune raspberries correctly in the spring, the harvest will be more abundant and the fruiting time will increase.

How to fertilize raspberries in spring?

Raspberries really need additional fertilizers, especially if they grow on poor soils. The most important fertilizers for raspberries are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but they also love organic ones. Nitrogen fertilizing is usually applied in spring and summer, since it reduces frost resistance and is not suitable for use in the fall.

Lack of nitrogen leads to slower growth of shoots, shredding of leaves and a sharp decrease in yield. A lack of phosphorus is manifested by weakening of shoots, and a deficiency of potassium not only has a bad effect on yield, but also greatly reduces winter hardiness.

Feed raspberries in spring It is best according to the following scheme.

Immediately after the snow melts, even before loosening the soil, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea per 1 m2). It should be borne in mind that nitrogen fertilizers acidify the soil, and raspberries do not tolerate high acidity. Therefore, experienced gardeners advise adding a glass of ash under each bush along with nitrogen fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate can be replaced with potassium nitrate: it also contains nitrogen, but does not acidify the soil. Plants must be well watered before fertilizing. Some gardeners use homemade complex fertilizer: ammonium nitrate, potassium and superphosphate in a ratio of 1:1:2. Dosage - 100 g per 10 liters of water.

After loosening the soil, apply organic fertilizers as mulch. This can be humus, peat compost, straw manure, etc.

In May, raspberries are fed with mullein, diluted at the rate of 500 ml per bucket of water. Fertilizer consumption - about 5 liters per square meter landings.

Supporters of exclusively natural fertilizers successfully manage to replace mineral fertilizers organic.

Raspberry fertilizers “without chemicals”:

Fresh manure diluted with water 1:10;

Rabbit, goat (1:10) or bird (1:20) droppings;

Tincture of weeds (nettle and comfrey). To prepare, pour 1 kg of fresh weed mixture with 10 liters of water and leave for 7-10 days with daily stirring. The resulting product is diluted with water (1:10) and the raspberries are fertilized at the rate of 2 liters per bush.

How to properly fertilize raspberries with organic matter:

Before fertilizing, dry soil must be properly moistened so as not to burn the raspberry roots;

Fertilizer is applied in cloudy, cool weather: the sun and high air temperatures lead to undesirable chemical reactions;

Work should be carried out very carefully, avoiding contact of solutions with raspberry leaves and stems;

Organic-based infusions cannot be tightly closed when preparing; they require access to air.

Treatment of raspberries in spring against pests and diseases

The main pests of raspberries are the strawberry-raspberry weevil, raspberry beetle, stem fly and shoot gall midge. Spring is the time to prevent attacks by these pests.

What can be done to protect raspberries from pests?

First of all, do not neglect the simplest agrotechnical measures: pruning, removing residues, and timely digging the soil. Weevils, gall midges, and beetle larvae overwinter in damaged or dead parts of the bush and in the soil. Cleaning the raspberry tree from fallen leaves and dry branches has not only an aesthetic, but also an obvious practical meaning.

How to treat raspberries in spring against...

- Raspberry beetle. These insects appear en masse during flowering and destroy buds, flowers and leaves; their larvae feed on berries and can destroy a significant part of the crop. Raspberries are treated against beetles immediately after the snow melts and the shoots are tied, generously spraying the bushes and soil with a solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water). Before flowering, treatment is carried out with a mixture of infusions of marigolds and wormwood. To prepare marigold infusion, take 200 g of dry crushed raw materials per 10 liters of water and leave for 48 hours. The wormwood infusion is made in the same proportion, but kept for no more than 2 hours. Then both infusions are mixed and filtered. Two-time treatment of raspberries with biological preparations (Fitoverm, Agravertin) also shows good results: in early May and early June.

- Raspberry gall midge. The larvae of this insect are dangerous. They damage young shoots, cause them to die or freeze in winter, and can facilitate the penetration of fungus, as a result of which next year's harvest is at risk. A sign of damage by gall midge larvae is very characteristic and easily distinguishable growths (“galls”) on the stems and destruction of shoots.

To combat gall midges, you need to inspect the raspberries as carefully as possible after wintering, and if growths are detected, cut out and burn the affected shoots. In early spring, it is recommended to loosen the soil to a depth of 5-10 cm and spray it with fufanon (15-20 ml per 10 liters of water). At the stage of bud appearance, raspberries are sprayed with fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water, consumption - 0.2 liters per bush) or actellik (15 ml per 10 liters, similar consumption). Unfortunately, there are no folk remedies for gall midges.

- Stem fly. This is one of the specific raspberry pests that affects this particular crop. Fly larvae gnaw at the tops of the shoots, which leads to rotting and infection. Prevention consists of spring mulching of tree trunk circles - this makes it difficult for insects to leave their wintering areas. In early May, before flowering, you can treat raspberries with Actellik, Fitoverm or Agravertin. Folk remedies against stem flies are ineffective and are only suitable for repelling insects, but not for getting rid of them if the pests have already appeared on raspberries.

From raspberry diseases Anthracnose and gray rot are considered the most dangerous.

To prevent anthracnose, you can treat raspberries in early spring with a solution of nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water). At the beginning of bud break, it is recommended to use Bordeaux mixture (200 g copper sulfate and 200 g of lime per 10 liters of water).

Gray mold is a fungal disease that develops rapidly in warm and damp weather. Affects leaves and berries. Prevent the appearance of gray rot by spraying raspberries with Bordeaux mixture: in early spring, use a 3% solution, before flowering - 1%. Spraying with Fitosporin also helps, which can be carried out at any time if signs of disease appear on the plants. Folk remedies include dusting the soil with crushed charcoal or ash.

There are raspberries in almost every dacha; this is a berry that can rival only strawberries in popularity and popularity ratings. This shrub is unpretentious and easy to care for. Planted raspberries are quickly accepted and begin to bear fruit if they are properly cared for. It is not for nothing that gardeners say that simple spring labors will return a hundredfold in the summer, when the raspberry branches bend from a bountiful harvest.

It is generally believed that the time to start processing raspberry plantations is when the snow has completely melted and the average daily air temperature has remained at least 5°C for at least five days.

Important! You can’t miss the moment when the soil warms up! You need to start working on the raspberry field when the ground is not yet warmed up, this is especially important for pruning. If the soil has already warmed up, sap flow has already begun in the raspberry shoots, the buds have already awakened, and pruning will be painful and traumatic for the plant, and in addition, will affect the development of the shoots and the fruitfulness of the raspberries.

The main thing is to start and not quit. Processing of raspberries should be carried out systematically, and not in swoops. Each type of gardening work has its own schedules, its own deadlines, and all this must be observed.

Deadlines for the Moscow region

In the central regions and the Moscow region, the end of March (in cold years with very snowy winters, the beginning or even mid-April) is the most suitable time to start inspecting raspberry bush plantings.

In colder climatic zones (Ural, Siberia), events are shifted significantly, by a month and a half. But the weather requirements are the same: stable plus five degrees of average daily air temperature, melted snow and not very warm soil.

Caring for raspberries in spring includes:

• pruning (primarily);
• soil cultivation;
• garter;
• feeding;
• watering;
• preventive treatment against diseases and pests.

In some manuals you can find such an item as a hot shower for raspberry bushes.

Spring pruning of raspberries is carried out immediately after the top layer of soil has dried. This is the optimal time for pruning and shaping the raspberry tree.

Important! Regardless of how the raspberries were planted, proper pruning of the bushes is carried out using a two-stage method.

At the beginning of the first stage, fruit-bearing, crooked and weak shoots are cut off as close to the soil surface as possible. The stems that have swellings (“bulbs”) above the ground are mercilessly removed - this is the “wintering habitat” of the larvae of the gall midge pest. What remains after this is thinned out. In this case, the following rule is observed: bush formation - leave 6-8 stems, strip or trench planting - it is enough to leave from 15 to 20 stems per linear meter.

Thickening should not be allowed; as a result, the yield will decrease, the berries will become smaller, with less pronounced taste.

The second stage begins when a stable positive temperature of 5°C and above leads to the fact that open buds begin to appear, the tips that have begun to grow are already visible on the shoots, and the gardener can clearly examine the condition of the bush after wintering. During the final audit, it is necessary to remove what was not removed at the first, earlier stage: then there was no complete certainty that some of the tops of the stems were frozen and became lifeless, and for the same reason, some fruiting stems of the bush can be missed.

For healthy stems, cutting the tops to 20 cm is recommended. This is necessary for the development of additional lateral fruiting shoots. If the top is frozen, it needs to be cut back to the first living bud.

Such pruning is necessary to create optimal conditions that will contribute to good yields and increase the duration of the fruiting period.

The tops of healthy raspberry stems are cut to a length of up to 20 cm in order to obtain additional lateral fruit-bearing shoots; frozen ones are cut back to the first living bud. Spring pruning of raspberries is important because it creates optimal conditions conducive to the formation of a bountiful harvest and increases the duration of the fruiting period of the crop.

Important! All cut parts of the bush must be burned. Another precaution is to lay a “gentle” passage. Between the rows you need to lay boards, slate, or some other flat material with a large surface area: this will reduce the pressure on the soil and prevent you from trampling the raspberry rows.

Autumn fertilizer alone is not enough for raspberries; they need additional feeding in the spring. This is very important on depleted and infertile soils. Complex industrial fertilizers can be applied to the soil in the form of both granules and nutrient solutions. Fertilizing is done only before watering, otherwise the soil will not fully absorb it. After applying fertilizers, it is necessary to mulch, and the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm.

Important! During the entire growing season, the raspberry tree needs to be fed three times.

Raspberry plantings are fed for the first time in early spring, when the snow has just melted from the ground. At this stage the following is entered:

• nitrophoska;
• Kemir;
• complex mixtures;
• various mineral deposits.

Mineral fertilizers should be applied at the rate of 60-80 g/m2 on normal soil and 80-100 g/m2 on depleted soil.

It is advisable to add ammonium nitrate, or better yet potassium nitrate. The latter can be replaced with urea, consumption 30-40 g/m2. At the same time, wood ash is added under the bushes (150 g per bush is enough). Ash is necessary to deoxidize the soil: frequent use of ammonium nitrate makes it acidified. An undeniable plus wood ash– macro- and microelements contained in it in abundance.

During the first feeding, it is recommended to use organic matter, compost or humus, up to 5 kg/m2. In this way, you can fertilize raspberry fields every year or every other year. After the fertilizers have been applied and the soil has been watered, the raspberry tree needs to be mulched using:

• humus;
• straw;
• shavings;
• peat, etc.

If compost or humus was used when feeding, these substances are not used for mulching.

For the second feeding of raspberry bushes, carried out a month later or a little earlier, depending on the weather, organic fertilizers are used. This feeding should coincide in time with the phase when the ovary begins to form. For fertilizer, use a solution of 0.5-1 kg of manure or chicken droppings in water in the following proportions:

• for a given amount of manure you need 10-12 liters of water;
• To prepare a solution with bird droppings, you need 12-15 liters of water.

Consumption per linear meter of raspberries is 2-3 liters. Regardless of the fact that fertilizers were applied in liquid form, the plantings still need to be watered abundantly and mulched after that.

The difference between feedings: the use of organic matter at the first stage involves the addition of potassium salt and superphosphate (30-40 g/m2 and 20-25 g/m2, respectively).

The most natural fertilizer for raspberries: video

When the raspberry buds open and budding and flowering begin, you can begin treatment for diseases using:

• phytosporin;
• trichoderma;
• bactophyta;
• glioclandin, etc.

• aversectin;
• Bicola;
• verticillin;
• mycoafidine;
• pecilomycin and other drugs.

Insecticides and fungicides are made for tank mixtures according to the instructions. A decrease or increase in concentration is unacceptable.

A very effective solution is a three-week infusion of garlic (500 g per 3 liters of water) and 1/3 of a bar of laundry soap, grated on a kitchen grater. All this is diluted with water to 10-12 liters and the raspberries are sprayed with this solution. good folk remedy is also an infusion onions, as well as the roots and stems of dandelion and yarrow.

When young leaves appear, treatment with karbofos destroys pests such as mites, including spider mites.

A pest such as the raspberry beetle can only be removed manually; other methods are ineffective. You need to lay a film or cloth under the raspberry bushes, shake each branch, and collect and destroy the fallen pests.

There is no consensus on the exact timing of transplanting raspberries. The varieties, the climate, and the type of material being transplanted matter (for this, bushes, suckers, and replacement shoots are used).

In regions with a temperate climate, raspberries are replanted with bushes in the spring so that the root system is well developed. In milder and warmer climates, root shoots (remontant varieties) are replanted.

Depending on the regional zone, raspberries are also transplanted in mid-April. And in very cool conditions, spring transplantation can be considered relatively so, since this procedure is carried out in late May-early June. This is the best time to replant raspberries: sunlight and heat best stimulate the development of raspberries.

When replanting, it is very advisable to treat the root system with Agat 25K. This will protect the raspberry plant from diseases such as verticillium.

Features of caring for remontant raspberries in the spring are: special form trimmings. Raspberry varieties that bear fruit more than once a season spend more energy in order to form shoots, and then for them to grow and develop stems. Therefore, such raspberries are grown using annual shoots.

In the first year, remontant raspberries are not pruned in the spring; this is done in the fall. And in April, in the second year, after sanitation, the stems are cut to the first bud. A month later, the top of the shoot is shortened again: this prolongs fruiting.

How to prune remontant raspberries: video

Pruning according to a special pattern allows you to increase the number of fruitings. To do this, pruning is done without a single template: some branches are cut by 15 cm, others by 30 cm, others are shortened by half, and others are cut almost completely, leaving about 3 cm.

Pruning according to Sobolev consists in the fact that in the first year, on the eve of summer, the tops of shoots more than half a meter long are pruned by 10 cm. The next year, the tops are cut back to 5 cm immediately after the buds open.

You can use a hot shower for treatment. It is done at the very beginning of March, it can be done on unmelted snow. Everything unnecessary that was forgotten or could not be removed in the fall is raked from the bushes and burned. Boiled water is poured into a five-liter garden watering can and the raspberry tree is watered with it, raising the watering can to a height of at least 70 cm. Since at this time the plant buds are still sleeping, and when falling from such a height the water will have time to cool down, the shoots will be treated with approximately 70-degree hot water . The benefit is that this natural treatment will kill pests that are indestructible by almost any poisons. This applies primarily to nematodes.

For a large bush of 10-15 branches you need half a watering can (2.5 l). In other cases, 5 liters of boiling water is consumed for 2-4 bushes.

How to increase raspberry yield. Double cropping: video

1. Fertilizer is applied to dry soil. This leads to burns of the raspberry roots. The soil must first be moistened abundantly.
2. Organics are introduced in the heat, under the scorching sun. And after that, side chemical reactions begin. To prevent this from happening, you need to feed in cool, cloudy weather.
3. After winter, the frost shelter is not removed. As a result, pests establish themselves in the mulch. Since the entire raspberry tree is mulched, the damage to diseases or harmful insects takes the form of an epidemic, spreading throughout the entire covering layer. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is remove the winter insulation.
4. The soil is loosened too deeply in the spring. This damages the raspberry roots. In fact, 15 mi is enough, or even less. This ensures full access of moisture and oxygen to the root system and allows the plant to feed normally.
5. Pruning is carried out at the wrong time. Because of this, raspberries sprout unnecessary foliage. Pruning by revived buds reduces the plant's resistance to diseases and reduces yield.
6. A separate article is the correct garter. It is often done in such a way that the bush is simply collected into one sheaf. With such a garter, only that part of the berries that is under the sun will be able to ripen properly, while the rest, which will be hidden in this tied bush, will not reach the proper degree of ripeness. You need to tie it so that each branch receives maximum sun.

To get a good harvest of ripe, tasty raspberries, you need to start systematic processing of raspberries on time, carrying out all agrotechnical activities strictly according to schedule, without missing anything. Proper pruning and fertilization in the spring are no less important than summer watering and other care.

How to grow and care for raspberries in spring: video

Caring for raspberries in spring is a guarantee good harvest and plant health. The article discusses the main stages of caring for raspberries in April and May. Many novice gardeners think that raspberries do not need special attention, but that's not true. To get a good harvest you have to work hard.

It is not correct to think that raspberries grow on their own. By itself, it grows only in the forest, where the raspberry bush quickly turns into dense thorny thickets. The high content of nutrients turns raspberries into a real pharmacy. It has been established that it contains more vitamin C than berries.

How to care for raspberries in spring to get a good harvest

In order to enjoy delicious raspberries in the summer, in the spring it is important not to be late with fertilizing, pruning and pest control

Raspberry plants require heat and often do not tolerate severe frosts. If there is insufficient snow cover, the aboveground part of the plants often freezes, especially if the bushes grow in an elevated place. It is important to plant raspberries in lighted areas, protected from cold winds and with sufficient snow cover.

In early spring, experienced gardeners check the condition of overwintered raspberries. Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to inspect the plantings. Check how the raspberry bushes overwintered and whether there is any frost damage. If you didn’t have time to cut out fruit-bearing shoots in the fall, be sure to do it in the spring.

How to peel raspberries in spring

Raspberries were not cut from the plot in the fall. Raspberries grow a lot and require care. It will be difficult to cope with such an area in the spring.

Cutting out last year's shoots is an important preventive measure. It is better to peel raspberries from fruit-bearing shoots in the fall, but often there is not enough time for this or cold weather sets in unexpectedly. In early spring, shoots remaining from last year's fall are cut down to the ground, old leaves are removed (they may be affected by diseases) and burned.

Immediately after the snow melts, raspberry shoots bent for the winter should be untied and straightened.

The shoots bent for the winter are untied and tied to the trellis. If the raspberry shoots were bent and tied for the winter, then in early spring the branches must be untied and straightened. This work of caring for raspberries should be done immediately after the snow melts. Buds that are closer to the ground may bloom prematurely. If the cold returns, which often happens in the spring, the swollen buds may suffer and freeze.

Plants with exposed root systems are covered with soil. The soil around the bushes is mulched, that is, covered with humus, compost or peat at the rate of 4-5 kg ​​per bush. After lifting the bushes and cutting out old, broken shoots that bear fruit that year, the raspberries are tied to the trellises. Typically, trellises are made in one or two rows of thin stakes, wire, and twine. The trellises are secured to stakes driven into the ground.

• Cut out old shoots at the root
• Clear the plantings of fallen leaves and burn them
• Untie and straighten the branches, tie them to the trellis
• Cover exposed roots with soil and mulch with peat or compost.

Spring pruning of shoot tips

The tops froze over the winter. They must be cut back to the first living bud.

In the spring, the tops of raspberry branches are cut off. This should not be done immediately after tying to the trellises, but wait a little until the buds open. When the topmost bud opens, it will be clear whether the top of the shoot has frozen over the winter or not. Trim the top to the first blossoming bud. It is advisable to trim the tops in any case, since spring pruning stimulates the formation of fruit-bearing side shoots.

Trim the tops to the first living bud.

Caring for raspberries in early spring before buds open

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the soil in the raspberry field. Throughout the season, the soil under the bushes should be weed-free and loose. If you miss the moment and do not cultivate the soil, the raspberry tree will quickly become overgrown with weeds, and old leaves that are not removed will serve as a source of all kinds of fungal diseases. In addition, some pests overwinter under old leaves and underground and will happily reproduce.

Soil maintenance around raspberries and early spring loosening

Do not dig up the soil near raspberry plants. Raspberry roots are not deep, and digging in the spring can damage the root system. Digging is done only between the rows in the fall. In early spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-10 cm. Raspberries love loose, nutritious, moist soil. In the forest, wild raspberries grow under a thick layer of old rotted leaves. After loosening the soil around the plants, mulch.

Mulching the soil in a raspberry garden

Mulching raspberries ensures moisture retention and the presence of organic material in the soil. As mulch, you can use rotted sawdust, tops of root crops, such as beets or carrots, peat, compost, and humus. Then the soil around the plants is mulched. means covering the soil with some kind of material; in the case of raspberries, this is organic material: straw manure, rotted sawdust, peat, compost.

Under mulch, the soil becomes more fertile, loose, and retains more moisture. Under mulch, earthworms reproduce well, converting organic matter into humus. Mulch suppresses the growth of weeds, increases soil fertility, and improves temperature and air conditions. If the soil is very wet and dense, then mulching is not recommended. It’s better to just loosen it in spring and apply fertilizer.

Fertilizing raspberries in spring

For the first two years after planting, with good pre-planting preparation, fertilizers may not be applied.
Raspberries are very responsive to care, including the application of fertilizers, both organic and mineral. In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied during loosening.

It is best to add urea. Urea is applied along the entire row of plants in a strip of 50-70 cm. Urea should be applied annually in early spring. Then mulch the soil. The rate of application of nitrogen fertilizers per 1 square meter.

• Urea 8 gr.
• Ammonium nitrate 10-12 g.
• During the period of berry ripening and fruiting, nitrogen fertilizers are not applied.
• In the fall, after harvesting, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are applied.

Control of raspberry diseases and pests

At proper care for raspberries you will get an excellent harvest of berries

Raspberry, like others berry bushes, exposed to viral, fungal diseases and pest attacks. In early spring, before the buds open, raspberries and the soil under the bushes are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux mixture or 0.5-1% copper oxychloride solution. Borods mixture is used to combat raspberry pathogens and as a general sanitary measure.

During the season, plantings are periodically inspected to identify diseased plants and preventive measures are carried out. Early spring spraying of the soil under bushes and dormant buds with fungicides, including Bordeaux mixture, will destroy many pathogens. To prevent fungal and viral infections, raspberry plantings are sprayed 4 times per season:

• In early spring on dormant buds
• Before flowering
• Immediately after flowering
• After harvest

To combat insects and mites, raspberries are sprayed with insecticides depending on the specific situation, especially in the first half of summer. Timely spring work to care for raspberries increases the resistance of plants and creates unfavorable conditions for the development of diseases.

A short list of spring activities for caring for raspberries before the leaves bloom (April, May)

1. Inspection and untying of overwintered plantings
2. Cutting out last year's shoots at the root (if you didn't have time in the fall)
3. Tying raspberry shoots to trellises or in another way
4. Trimming the tops of shoots by 10-15 cm or to the first living bud
5. Early spring loosening of the soil under bushes
6. Application of nitrogen fertilizers and mulching
7. Spraying with fungicides (Bordeaux mixture) to prevent diseases.

Proper spring care of raspberries will allow you to avoid infection of plantings with various fungal and viral infections, reap a good harvest and ensure the growth of healthy shoots throughout the summer. In spring, you need to pay attention to other shrubs. Strawberries are often planted next to raspberries. Read the article on how to properly care for strawberries in spring.

The right start is the key to a good harvest. The secret of double pruning.

Cutting out fruit-bearing shoots is an important agrotechnical technique.