Plants on the go. Plants on a hike Using wood ash to wash dishes

Plants on a hike Since ancient times, they have been used not only for treatment and nutrition, but also for other purposes. Plants that can be found in forests and fields help purify contaminated water or replace soap. For those who like to hike or often be in nature, it is useful to know about such plants. Such knowledge in some cases can not only make travel easier, but also save lives - ensuring survival in critical situations.

Soap from plants

If you run out or lose soap, it doesn’t matter. In the forest, meadow or field you can find plants that can replace it.

Soapwort

First of all, it is also popularly called “dog soap”. It grows everywhere in damp lowlands, on forest edges, along forest streams and swamps.

It's low herbaceous plant, blooming all summer with white and pink flowers. Soapwort easily pulls out of the ground with its roots. These roots, when rubbed in palms moistened with water, produce rich foam that washes the dirtiest hands.

In the old days, peasants used dried soapwort roots to wash clothes. After this, the clothes have a pleasant smell and, they say, no insects will grow in them.

ATTENTION! When using soapwort, you should not inhale or try the foam, since the plant is poisonous and can cause poisoning if ingested.

Red elderberry

Red elderberries are also good for washing your hands. They should be rubbed in your palms with water; they do not foam, but easily remove dirt. Elderberry is a shrub or small tree that grows in the undergrowth of broad-leaved, less often mixed and coniferous forests, on the edges, in thickets of bushes.

Common cockle

You can easily find cockle in the field - its purple flowers compete with cornflowers in the rye. It also has laundering properties.

bracken fern

There are thickets in coniferous forests. Its rhizomes contain a lot of potassium, so they lather well. People also used them instead of soap.

Disinfection and disinfection of water

If you are left without drinking water in nature, do not despair. There will probably be a stream or a small swamp in the surrounding area. How to disinfect such water? The main method is boiling. But you don’t have matches or don’t have time to make a fire. This problem can be easily solved with the help of plants.

You need to find a small tree, tree or large shrub with white, strong-smelling flowers. Break a bunch of branches and, after pouring water (into any vessel), place the branches in it, thoroughly ruffling the bark on them. After half an hour, there will be no pathogenic microbes left in the water. They will die under the influence of strong phytoncides contained in bird cherry bark. And you can drink the water without fear.

Just 50 years ago, soap was made by hand from natural materials. People did not know about dandruff, bacteria, and the consequences of chemical soap production.

Household soap is a natural product that can be easily obtained using available materials.
It is enough to have ashes, ashes, and residual fat from cooking on hand and you get an environmentally friendly detergent.

Previously, the soap making device looked like this.

To get alkali, boil the ash (mix softwood that is too resinous with fat) in a small amount of soft water, preferably rainwater, for about half an hour. Let the ashes settle to the bottom of the pan and then collect the fat-free liquid lye.

Attention! DO NOT use aluminum dishes or pans!

Next, add the appropriate amount of various fatty waste to the lye and boil, adding weaker lye, until the sample taken on a glass plate hardens into a transparent sticky mass.
This method produces liquid potash soap, usually called soap glue. To turn the soft mass into hard, dense soap, add table salt to the soap glue. In this case, the so-called soap core is released, which is a solid soda soap.
After adding table salt, the resulting core soap is scooped out, as well as the lye, after which the soap is placed again in the cauldron, boiled again with thicker lye, salted again, scooped out and placed in boxes lined with linen; when the excess lye adhering to the soap collects drop by drop on the bottom of the box, turn the box over, take out the soap, cut it into pieces and air dry.
To make soap, it is better, of course, not to take ash and lime, but directly caustic soda, commercially called soapstone.

You should have on hand wooden box 5cm high, 7.5cm wide and 15cm. This is a form for one block. If you are making more soap, use a larger box and cut the solidified final product into manageable pieces. Cover the bottom of the box with wax paper or grease to prevent the soap from sticking, pour in the soft mixture and let it cool.

Survival experts advise using Natural resources
During a large-scale disaster or simply while relaxing in nature, we often try to do everything the traditional way, like at home. However, what works well in a civilized society is not always suitable for survival in extreme situations, when usual resources are limited or do not exist at all.
Consider the daily routine of cleaning utensils after meals. There is no doubt that properly cleaning your mess kit is an important task during survival. When it comes to foods that come into direct contact with utensils, lack of proper hygiene can put you out of business in a very short time.

FREE ACCESS TO SOAP IS LIMITED
In an extreme survival situation, you will always be short of soap. It takes up space and adds extra weight to an outfit in which every cubic inch should be used only for the most essential items. This is especially true when walking: the less you carry, the better for you.
When practicing outdoor survival skills, I typically don't bring soap with me to clean my eating utensils. To save space and weight, I prefer to forego any soap in favor of a mixture of water, sand and dirt that can be used to rub the dishes and thus get rid of food residues. Of course, rubbing with sand helps to get rid of residual food products, but this method cannot completely remove fats. As a result, the dishes will wear out much faster.

USE WOOD ASH TO WASH DISHES
Wood ash has been used for centuries as a source of lye in the soap making process. When lye made from wood ash is mixed with fats and oils, a chemical reaction occurs and the end result is what we call soap.

Lye is a consistency of ash infused with water. Mainly composed of potassium and sodium carbonates. Has highly alkaline reactions. The lye in the ecovillage is used for bathing and washing. Unlike various detergents sold in stores, this substance is completely natural! From this word comes the name of the class of chemical compounds of alkali.
Cold method of preparing lye:
Fill 2/3 of the bucket with wood ash
add water and stir
remove large debris and leave for three days (do not stir anymore)
A clear liquid will remain in the upper half of the bucket - this is lye (soapy to the touch).
If you wash with highly concentrated lye, the clothes will wear out quickly. To do this, you need to dilute the lye with water (about 1/10).
Only well-diluted lye can be used to wash your hair and body!
If you have wood ash and grease or oil (in your dirty dishes), then you have soap!

HOW TO USE WOOD ASH AS SOAP
Before moving on to a detailed description of the process of using wood ash as soap, I want to emphasize the importance of following one rule: wash dishes far from a water source. Do not pollute water that other people, animals, or even yourself can use during survival.
Follow these basic steps to clean your dining equipment. The description is quite verbose, but in practice everything turns out to be simple:
Before you start cleaning dishes with wood ash, you need to keep in mind:
Wood ash should not contain any leftover plastics, food or other debris that has been burned in a fire; these substances can be quite toxic. To ensure clean wood ash, make sure you are not using a fire pit that may have burned anything other than wood. You may have to light a fire in a fresh place.
Water is a valuable resource that is easily polluted. Try not to wash anything closer than 60-70 meters from a water source.
Water for washing dishes must be free of pathogens.
Wood ash lye can make your hands dry if left for a while. Be sure to use gloves or rinse your hands in clean water after cleaning your equipment using this method.
Do not use wood ash to wash your body or equipment that cannot withstand harsh soapy solutions.
Ashes from hardwood trees are better suited for making soap than ash obtained from coniferous species.
Allow the fire to burn down enough so that you can easily remove the ashes.
Choose the greasy pot. If the food scraps are not very greasy, you can make the soap making process easier by adding a small amount of fat or oil to the pot. Anything will do: butter, margarine, olive oil, animal fat, etc. A few drops will be enough.
Add a few cups of ash to the pan. If a few pieces of charcoal get into the solution and mix with ash, then this is only beneficial, since the charcoal will promote cleaning. Usually, I carefully add a few hot coals from the fire to heat the water as well (see next step).
Dilute the ash with enough warm water to form a paste. Since you are cleaning dishes that will come into contact with food, you must be sure that the water does not contain disease-causing organisms. You can boil the water immediately or add coals to the pot as mentioned above. Hot coals should bring the liquid to a high temperature, etc. make water safe.
Hot water will create potassium salt from the wood ash, which will mix with the fats or oils in leftover food. This will form a crude soap that will remove dirt and grease from your kitchen utensils.
When the water and ash paste have cooled sufficiently, spread it all over the bowl and leave for a few minutes. At this time, a chemical reaction will take place, which will turn wood ash into soap.
Wipe the dirt off your dishes.
Rinse with clean water.

WOOD AND SAVINGS
When surviving, I prefer to make the most of natural resources. This approach reduces the weight and bulk of your gear and also saves you some money.
Since wood is always available in my area and open fires are not prohibited, I use a wood stove (potbelly stove) for cooking. Advantages of wood over other types of fuel:
No need to buy
No need to carry it with you
Huge reserves in almost every corner of the planet
During cooking, the wood burns and turns into ash, which is then used for washing dishes.
Thus, wood is not only free fuel, but also an excellent source of soap during survival.
Love nature!

So a terrible thing happened, but you survived and found a quiet place and are setting up a camp.
I’ll tell you about a small trifle, which is by no means a trifle. Supplies of soap and cleaning products are running low and you need to come up with something.

To save space and weight in your backpack, you can skip dish cleaning products in favor of a mixture of water, sand and dirt. As a child, I used this mixture to clean dishes after greasy cabbage soup and porridge; even the worst grease was washed off plates and bowls, but the grease cannot be washed off completely and as a result, the dishes quickly wear out.

And one small rule, do not wash dishes near a water source, other survivors or animals that can become food for you can use it.

Using wood ash to wash dishes.

Wood ash has been used for centuries as a source of lye in the soap making process. When lye made from wood ash is mixed with fats and oils, a chemical reaction occurs and the end result is what we call soap.

Wood ash

Cold method of preparing lye:

Fill 2/3 of the bucket with wood ash
add water and stir
remove large debris and leave for three days (do not stir anymore)

A clear liquid will remain in the upper half of the bucket - this is lye (soapy to the touch).
If you wash with highly concentrated lye, the clothes will wear out quickly. To do this, you need to dilute the lye with water (about 1/10).

Only well-diluted lye can be used to wash your hair and body!

If you have wood ash and grease or oil (in your dirty dishes), then you have soap!

HOW TO USE WOOD ASH AS SOAP

Follow these basic steps to clean your dining equipment. The description is quite verbose, but in practice everything turns out to be simple:

Before you start cleaning dishes with wood ash, you need to keep in mind:
Wood ash should not contain any leftover plastics, food or other debris that has been burned in a fire; these substances can be quite toxic. To ensure clean wood ash, make sure you are not using a fire pit that may have burned anything other than wood. You may have to light a fire in a fresh place.
Water is a valuable resource that is easily polluted. Try not to wash anything closer than 60-70 meters from a water source.
Water for washing dishes must be free of pathogens.
Wood ash lye can make your hands dry if left for a while. Be sure to use gloves or rinse your hands in clean water after cleaning your equipment using this method.
Do not use wood ash to wash your body or equipment that cannot withstand harsh soapy solutions.
Ash from hardwood trees is better suited for making soap than ash from softwood trees.
Allow the fire to burn down enough so that you can easily remove the ashes.
Choose the greasy pot. If the food scraps are not very greasy, you can make the soap making process easier by adding a small amount of fat or oil to the pot. Anything will do: butter, margarine, olive oil, animal fat, etc. A few drops will be enough.
Cleaning the dishes Add a few glasses of ash to the pan. If a few pieces of charcoal get into the solution and mix with ash, then this is only beneficial, since the charcoal will promote cleaning. Usually, I carefully add a few hot coals from the fire to heat the water as well (see next step).
Dilute the ash with enough warm water to form a paste. Since you are cleaning dishes that will come into contact with food, you must be sure that the water does not contain disease-causing organisms. You can boil the water immediately or add coals to the pot as mentioned above. Hot coals should bring the liquid to a high temperature, etc. make water safe.
Hot water will create potassium salt from the wood ash, which will mix with the fats or oils in leftover food. This will form a crude soap that will remove dirt and grease from your kitchen utensils.
When the water and ash paste have cooled sufficiently, spread it all over the bowl and leave for a few minutes. At this time, a chemical reaction will take place, which will turn wood ash into soap.
Wipe the dirt off your dishes.
Rinse with clean water.

ADblKBATbl4 08/11/2012 - 15:55

Today in our
This most practical article will talk about such a natural detergent as lye, the source of which is
is an ordinary wood
ash. Of course, in a city environment, it is unlikely that anyone will make lye, but in the countryside, at the dacha, or on a hike, it may well come in handy. Even if you don’t often wash dishes with alkaline water, it will still be interesting to do it at least once to understand what our ancestors used. Prepare the lye
cold method
quite simple. For this
you will need a regular one
wood ash and water. Of course without impurities
plastic and other things
garbage, which is often
burned in bonfires. Add about two-thirds
ash in a bucket and pour
water (preferably hot, but
It can also be cold).
Stir on top
remove large particles and debris and leave for 3 days
(now mix
no need). After
three days in
top half of the bucket
a clear, soapy liquid will collect on
touch. This is lye. His
need to be carefully drained (for
this is best
use rubber
pear) and use it in the future. This amount of lye
will last for a long time, because... For
washing dishes or laundry
it should be diluted 1 part
10. If you wash more
concentrated lye solution - clothes
will wear out quickly. By the way, you can use lye
not only wash
manually, but also pour
it into automatic
washing machine. To wash
head and body - diluted
even stronger, because
concentrated lye
leads to dry skin.
That is why it is better to wash and wash dishes in
gloves or immediately
wash your hands without leaving
alkaline water for a long time
skin. Hot way
preparing lye
somewhat more
troublesome, but also more
fast. We spread the ash
water in the same proportions and put on fire. Let's finish
to a boil and simmer for
low heat for at least 3
hours. Then let it sit
and cool down. After this a lot
can be filtered and poured into a container for
storage They say that
lye made like this
way, more
soapy or something: Alkaline soap To wash
greasy dishes - do
liquid lye is not
will be needed. Enough
just wood ash.

you can add - any -
vegetable, creamy
butter, margarine -
there will be a few drops

ash in a greasy saucepan,
pour in enough water to
it turned out pasty
weight. Now the pan

formation from wood
potassium salt ash.
Mixing with fats and
with oils it will form something
the most unrefined soap, which will remove dirt from
your dishes. When the contents of the pan
Once cooled, spread the paste
from ash along its walls.
The reaction that occurs at
this process will turn
ash into soap. All that remains is to rinse the pan
clean water. At first glance the description
long and difficult. In practice
everything happens quickly and
at ease. Besides
Interesting. By the way, it is believed that
better for soap
use
deciduous wood
wood species, not
conifers These are very useful
skills will be on the go,
because you don't have to charge
soap and detergents
means, and therefore weight
your equipment, albeit a little, will be less. TO
besides, this is how you maximize
use natural
resources, and without
waste: lit a fire,
prepared to eat, then collected the ashes and washed
dishes 😊 Of course they are
detergents will be
By the way, in an ecovillage. At first glance all these
the means seem very good
too far from ours
high-tech
life. But don't be lazy
make lye at least once out of curiosity at the dacha, drain
it in a plastic container - they
can be used for a long time and
directly for its intended purpose - for
washing, bathing, washing
dishes. You can even put it in the washing machine and
dishwasher.
The most important thing here
will pick up
correct proportions. How
I plan to do this this coming weekend 😊

Nice
Lye soap

from here: http://eko-jizn.ru/?p=4051
1.1. "Modern" technology

2. Soap from plants
2.1. General information

Suitable plants:
2.2. Soap from soapwort

Bean broth.
Potato juice

from here: http://outside-flo.livejournal.com/1777292.html

User Dron 08/11/2012 - 16:18

Test article

Osenniy 11.08.2012 - 16:18

Poboyanisty boyan

Vovan-Lawer 08/11/2012 - 16:23

Is stocking up not an option now?

Taurn 08/11/2012 - 16:24

Written in a notepad
then inserted?
Or something else so strange
Are columns formed?
(Unless, of course, you write it like that on purpose 😊.)

And about lye - yes, they wrote a long time ago. By the way, I tried it a year ago in the village - it was nonsense, I don’t remember why. I'll have to try again sometime when I get out into nature.

Taurn 08/11/2012 - 16:28

Although I re-read it, it seems that such details were not in the ward before:

To wash
greasy dishes - do
liquid lye is not
will be needed. Enough
just wood ash.
Mixing with fat, it forms something like this
unrefined soap. If there is little fat on the dishes -
you can add - any -
vegetable, creamy
butter, margarine -
there will be a few drops
enough. Pour in a few glasses
ash in a greasy saucepan,
pour in enough water to
it turned out pasty
weight. Now the pan
needs to be warmed up.

So he's not that afraid.

ADblKBATbl4 08/11/2012 - 16:28

Taurn
Written in a notepad
then inserted?
Or something else so strange
Are columns formed?
(Unless, of course, you write it like that on purpose 😊.)

From the pipe 😞

ADblKBATbl4 08/11/2012 - 16:29

Vovan-Lawer
Is stocking up not an option now?

Option. But supplies are finite!

Boatman61 08/11/2012 - 16:31

ADblKBATbl4
Pour in a few glasses
ash in a greasy saucepan,
pour in enough water to
it turned out pasty
weight. Now the pan
needs to be warmed up. Hot water helps
formation from wood
potassium salt ash.

Therefore, using my favorite detergent, I clean the dishes with sand both outside and inside. Alternating between dry and wet turns out very well.

Sadovnik 11.08.2012 - 16:40

ADblKBATbl4 08/11/2012 - 16:49

Boatman61
This is of course great, but if we are not heating it on a gas stove, the pan will become smoked on the outside and you will still have to scrub it with sand.

Oga, I agree. But with lye, the fat is washed off faster. And pouring sand there is generally a holy thing, only for the benefit.

dervish 08/11/2012 - 20:12

in those distant days, which, read, never existed 😊 they dumped us at the shooting range like pigs, shot, got to the barracks, shook ourselves off - and the uniform of an Afghan is glass? - almost washed 😊 maybe special soils 😊

AlexandrVoronin1889 08/11/2012 - 20:48

You can also make saltpeter from ash... and in post-BP, gunpowder is made from it...

osetindvr 08/11/2012 - 22:03

Interesting

Shukher 08/11/2012 - 22:15

Today, in our most practical article, we will talk about such a natural detergent as lye, the source of which is ordinary wood ash. Of course, in a city environment, it is unlikely that anyone will make lye, but in the countryside, at the dacha, or on a hike, it may well come in handy. Even if you don’t often wash dishes with alkaline water, it will still be interesting to do it at least once to understand what our ancestors used.

Making lye using the cold method is quite simple. To do this, you will need ordinary wood ash and water. Pour about two-thirds of the ash into a bucket and fill it with water (preferably hot, but cold can also be used). Stir, remove large particles and debris from above and leave for 3 days (now there is no need to stir). After three days, a clear liquid will collect in the upper half of the bucket, soapy to the touch. This is lye. It must be carefully drained (it is best to use a rubber bulb for this) and used in the future.

This amount of lye will last for a long time, because... for washing dishes or laundry, it should be diluted 1 to 10. If you wash with a more concentrated solution of lye, the clothes will wear out quickly. In order to wash your head and body, dilute it even more, because concentrated lye causes dry skin. This is why it is better to wear gloves or wash your hands immediately, without leaving alkaline water on the skin for a long time.

The hot method of preparing lye is somewhat more troublesome, but also faster. We dilute the ash with water in the same proportions and put it on fire. Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for at least 3 hours. Then let it sit and cool. After this, the mass can be filtered and poured into a storage container. They say that lye made in this way is more soapy, or something:

Lye soap

In order to wash greasy dishes, you do not need to make liquid lye. Just wood ash is enough. Mixing with fat, it forms a crude soap.

If there is little fat on the dishes, you can add any vegetable fat, butter, margarine - a few drops will be enough.

Pour a few glasses of ash into a greasy saucepan, pour in enough water to form a paste-like mass. Now the pan needs to be heated.

Hot water promotes the formation of potassium salt from wood ash. Mixing with fats and oils, it will form the same unrefined soap that will remove dirt from your dishes.

When the contents of the pan have cooled, spread the ash paste along its walls. The reaction that occurs in this process will turn the ash into soap.

All that remains is to rinse the pan with clean water.

At first glance, the description is long and complex. In fact, everything turns out quickly and easily. It’s also interesting. These skills will be very useful on a hike, because... you won’t have to take soap and detergents with you, which means the weight of your equipment will be a little less. In addition, this way you make the most of natural resources, and without waste: you lit a fire, cooked food, then collected the ashes and washed the dishes 😊

Of course, such detergents will come in handy in an eco-village.

At first glance, all these means seem very far from our high-tech life. But don’t be too lazy to make lye at least once out of curiosity at the dacha, pour it into a plastic container - it can be used for a long time and directly for its intended purpose - for washing, bathing, washing dishes. You can even put it in the washing machine and dishwasher. The most important thing here will be to choose the right proportions. Which is what I plan to do this coming weekend.
from here: http://eko-jizn.ru/?p=4051

The most common types of soap:

1. Fat based soap with lye

1.1. "Modern" technology
The technology consists of a chemical reaction of “saponification” of the fat base with alkali.
Any animal fat (most often beef or pork) can be used as fat.
or vegetable oils (most often: olive, castor, palm, coconut, cocoa butter, sunflower, etc. - the quality and, most importantly, the “yield” of soap will depend on the amount of fatty acids in the selected vegetable oil)
Even naphthenic acids (released during the purification of petroleum products) - monocarboxylic acids of the cyclopentane and cyclohexane series - are used to make soap. The product obtained as a result of several stages of processing is called “asidol” or “acidol mylonaft”. It produces only liquid or mild soap, one of which has an unpleasant “petroleum” smell, but has strong antibacterial properties.
Also, mixtures of oils, mixtures of fats, and even a mixture of animal and vegetable fat can be used as a fat base.

NaOH is most often used as an alkali (in the preparation of solid soap) (the modern chemical name is Natrii hydroxidum - "sodium hydroxide", common names: caustic soda, caustic, ethnatron, caustic soda, caustic alkali). For those who do not remember chemistry and labs on it well, let me clarify that this is a rare nasty thing that can leave severe chemical burns on the skin, and inhaling its vapors burns the mucous membrane. So they work with it very carefully, wearing gloves, a protective mask and safety glasses, preferably with a hood or in a well-ventilated area.
When preparing liquid soap, a slightly less nasty K.OH - potassium hydroxide is also used, but in general the safety precautions with it are the same.

From these components a “base” is created, which, in fact, then “washes” the body.
But, in addition, various additives are introduced into the soap so that the soap does not dry out the skin, has additional cosmetic effects, and also smells pleasant and has a beautiful appearance.

Of these “additives,” the first is the so-called. “overfat” is an additional amount of fat base, which is guaranteed not to react with alkali. It is specially calculated when preparing raw materials.
Superfat is needed so that the soap is not tiny, does not dry out the skin, and has a “moisturizing” effect.
But excess fat, firstly, is not suitable for every skin, and secondly, overfat soap is stored worse ("greasy"), and may have a strong smell of the fat itself (which is the case when using, for example, old lard as a raw material - you understand , not ice). In addition, the fatter the soap, the more “slimy” it is and the worse it hardens.
Usually the excess fat is 5-10%, maybe more.

Additives can include various essential oils, glycerin, extracts, juices and decoctions of herbs and fruits, milk, tea, honey, birch tar, chocolate. In short, whatever comes to mind. And, of course, all sorts of dyes, flowers, leaves, oats and other fillers as decoration or to serve as a scrub.
According to some technologies, used since ancient times, beeswax is added to soap. It gives the soap additional hardness, cosmetic properties and aroma.
Rosin (from the resin of coniferous trees) is also often added to soap - it makes the soap soft and sticky.

Fats and wax are “boiled”, that is, melted, and mixed with alkali at a temperature of about 40-50" depending on the type of fat. The chemical reaction itself then continues for a very long time, so that the soap becomes finally ready after 3-8 weeks, and Although most of this process is called "drying" the soap (when it is already cut into pieces and kept in a well-ventilated area), in fact, the process of chemical reaction continues to occur in it all this time.

1.2. Potash soap (soap made from fat and ash)

Ash is actually simply the source of the very lye described above.
Wood ash can be used (it is believed that the wood of deciduous plants is preferable to that of conifers) and ash left over from burning dry plants (herbaceous steppe plants; stems and tops of cultivated plants, including sunflowers; marine plants).

Everyone knows that in the old days the place where soap was made was called a “soap factory” (and the person who does this is a soap maker). This is precisely due to the technology of making soap using ash:

The sifted ash is moistened until a very thick, evenly moist mass is obtained. Then it is collected into a pile and placed in a depression made at the top. quicklime(1/2 of the amount of ash), which begins to be “quenched” by the presence of water. When the lime has completely reacted, mix everything and fill it with water, leaving it for a day. As a result, instead of water, lye is obtained (the same one that is now “made” by diluting caustic soda with water). It is drained and the ash is poured in again. The second bay turns out to be much less concentrated.
The lye of the “first fill” is heated to a boil, fats are added and boiled, adding alkaline water from the “second fill” until the mass reaches such a state that the taken sample solidifies in the form of a transparent sticky film. This turned out to be the so-called “soap glue”, also known as “potash soap” (from the word “potash” - this is what was previously called for alkaline salts extracted from ash: potassium and sodium carbonate. Nowadays this is the technical name for potassium carbonate K2CO3).
To obtain solid soap from liquid potash soap, table salt was added to it (the so-called “salting out” of the soap). A reaction occurred, as a result of which the so-called. "soap core" - clumps of solid soap. It was scooped out, digested again with strong lye, and salted again. And the resulting soap was put into boxes. After about a day, the boxes were turned over, the soap was shaken out, cut into bars and dried for several weeks until ready.

In ancient times (Ancient Greece, Egypt, and also up to the present day, in the artisanal home production of soap), they did not extract lye, but simply boiled fat with ash. This soap turned out to be quite liquid (paste-like).

By the way, in the old days, lye itself was used for washing and even washing, but very diluted (it washes dishes with a bang, but is harmful to the skin of the hands, and things that are washed with lye wear out faster - however, in the same way, for example, as from modern strong washing powders).
To obtain such lye, 2/3 of a bucket of ash was poured with water, mixed thoroughly and left for three days. The liquid that settled on top was the lye (both NaOH and K.OH). This concentrated solution was stored, and for washing it was diluted approximately 1/10 (and for washing - even more).

Also, due to the fact that ash contains lye, it itself can be used for washing and is very good - in camping conditions - for cleaning dishes (sometimes they are even washed, although usually ash is mixed with fatty clay for this purpose). The dishes are first washed in normal cold water, removing food debris with sand or clay, or rubbing with a bunch of grass. But she will still remain fat. To remove fat, you either need to boil a lot of water (troublesome, uneconomical - because it wastes firewood), or you can simply use a small amount of hot water and ash from the fire. A paste is made from water with ash, which is used to spread on the dishes (it will dry your hands - so either do it all with grass / a cloth - and then be sure to wash your hands - or wear gloves). After some time, wipe off the ash, rinse the dishes with water - the fat that the ash “binds” will be washed off along with it.

2. Soap from plants

2.1. General information

Plants with a high content of saponins are used to make vegetable soap.
(from the word sapo/soap/sapun/savon/saippua/seife - which in many languages, following the Latin "sapo", means soap)
Saponins form a solution with water with high foaming and cleaning activity.

Suitable plants:

Tatar soap (Zorka Kalchedonskaya, Tatar soap grass, Lychnis Chalcedonica) - grows in the steppe zone of the European part of Russia, in Ukraine, the Caucasus, Western and Eastern Siberia. Found in damp meadows near water. The leaves contain the largest amount of saponins - up to 23%.

Soap tree (Sapindus Saponaria) - grows in tropical countries and in Transcaucasia. Fruits are most suitable for extracting saponins - up to 38% saponins.

Horse chestnut (Aesculus Hippocastanum) - grown for ornamental purposes and grows well in temperate climates. Fruits are richest in saponin. In the shell - up to 11%, and in the pulp of the fruit up to 6% of saponins.

Soap root (Acantophyllum Glandulosum) is a wild perennial herbaceous plant native to Central Asia and the Caucasus. The roots of this plant contain up to 32% saponin.

Alpine violet (Cyclamen Lbericum) - grows in the foothills of the Caucasus and Transcaucasia. Saponin, up to 25% is found in the roots of plants that have the shape of tubers.

Soapwort (soap grass, soap root, soap flower, dog soap, wild soap, Saponaria Officinalis) is a perennial wild plant. Widely distributed in Eurasia. Soapwort roots, 2 - 3 cm thick, contain up to 36% saponin.

Adonis (whitish dawn, whitish tar, whitish slumber, Melandrium album) is a wild plant widely distributed in Ukraine, the Caucasus, Siberia and the European part of Russia up to the Moscow region. Adonis roots contain up to 28% saponin of very good quality. Therefore, this plant is even artificially cultivated as a raw material for the pharmaceutical industry.

Soap bark (Cortex Quilajae) - found under the name Panama (bark of the Quillaja saponaria tree from the Rosaceae family, growing in Chile, Peru and Bolivia);

Levant root (root of Gypsophila struthium L.);

Also, saponins are contained in the roots of paniculata (tumbleweed, Gypsophila paniculata), hernia fragrant (dog soap), primroses, cockle (Agrostemma githago).

The crushed raw material is poured with water and the saponins from it partially pass into solution. Increasing the temperature of the water or even boiling it significantly speeds up the process of extracting saponins. Since water does not completely wash away saponins, but only until their concentration in the raw material and in the surrounding water is equal, the raw material is filled with new water 2-3 times (each new portion is less concentrated).

2.2. Soap from soapwort

Some people use the root itself or even the leaves of soapwort, but a decoction is more convenient
You can use fresh root for this. And for future use, it is mined in late autumn and dried.

Based on 1 kg of dry clothes:
70 g of dry soapwort root are chopped into small pieces, poured with half a liter of boiling water, left for a day, stirring occasionally. After 24 hours, the broth is boiled for an hour under a lid over low heat, then removed from the heat to let it settle and strained through clean gauze or a linen cloth. The soap root remaining on the gauze can be poured with boiling water again and left for several hours. In this way, you can once again obtain a solution, albeit a little weaker, but still suitable for washing. The resulting soap is poured into a bowl of warm water, a fluffy foam is whipped up, divided into 2 portions, and each item is washed 2 times. It is enough to wash cleaner things once, and then rinse first in warm water, and then in water at room temperature. When rinsing white woolen fabrics, add 2 teaspoons of ammonia.
Soap root should be stored only in dry form; the solution should be used immediately, as it quickly deteriorates.

2.3. Some other plants used for washing clothes:

Bean broth.

Bean broth is very good for washing woolen fabrics. Take 200 g of beans per liter of water and cook in a sealed container. After cooking, strain the broth through clean gauze, pour it into a bowl of hot water and whip up the foam. After washing, rinse the fabric several times in warm water, adding 1 tablespoon of vinegar during the last rinse.

Potato juice

It is recommended to wash faded fabrics, as well as wool, in potato juice. To do this, grate 2 kg of peeled potatoes (maybe old, sprouted, unfit for food) and strain out the juice, then add enough hot water to keep the liquid warm, beat the foam and wash the fabric in it, squeezing it out easily. Rinse several times in warm water. During the last rinse, add a spoonful of salt or vinegar. All woolen fabrics can be washed in potato juice, with the exception of white ones, since white ones turn a little yellow when ironed.
from here: http://outside-flo.livejournal.com/1777292.html

damn it, copy it into the first post, I’ll erase it later, it’s fucking impossible to read...

Vlad-i-mir 08/11/2012 - 23:19

Here are a bunch more survival tips including herbal soap
http://www.xd24.ru/eda.aspx

“Making homemade soap at first glance does not relate to culinary issues, but this is not so. The point is not only that cooking is a process that requires cleanliness, in particular the hands. During this process, bones remain - they are the raw materials for soap. They are covered with ash, filled with water and boiled for some time, gradually pouring the soap extract into specially prepared small molds. The molds are dried in the sun.

A resident of the village of Petrino, Viktor Nikolaevich Churakov, told a completely unique way of making soap at home without any costs at all. This method can be useful to a person in any unforeseen situation, especially since it is known that in extreme circumstances, soap disappears along with matches, salt and sugar.

This is the method: prepare two kilograms of any type of fern, dry it thoroughly and burn it. Knead the cakes from the fern ash thus obtained with water and dry them. After drying, it will be... a wonderful, real soap that erases no worse than any branded powder.

It must be said that some types of fern are listed in the Red Book, but I am sharing here folk methods and recipes that hardly anyone would want to use in everyday life. It is unlikely that crowds of unwashed city dwellers will now rush into the forest for a fern in order to make a piece (or rather a cake) of soap out of it. But just in case, I think there’s a way to save it in memory.”

Velesferum 08/12/2012 - 18:44

How to get tar for tar soap.

You will need:
- knife for removing birch bark;
- enamel bucket with “ears”;
- 2.5 l saucepan;
- metal sheet 500x500x3 mm with 30 holes Ø 2.5-3 mm in the center;
- steel wire length 5 m and Ø up to 3 mm;
- crushed birch bark;
- bricks, stones;
- firewood.

Instructions:
1. In Russia, tar is obtained from birch wood by dry distillation, at a temperature of about 650.C. If you are going to get tar yourself, then it is better to use birch bark for this. Start collecting it with the onset of the first warm spring days, in May or June.
2. To obtain 0.5 liters of birch bark tar, prepare 2 kg of birch bark. In birch forests that are subject to felling, choose white, clean birch bark without sagging or thickening. Birch bark is very easy to remove at this time of year. Use a knife to cut the birch bark from top to bottom and it will come off easily.
3.You can use birch bark
dead or fallen, but having sufficiently strong wood. True, in this case you will have to get much less tar. You will get the best results when removing birch bark from old trees with a diameter of about 13 cm. Collect the birch bark removed from the birch into bundles. Then, to dry, lay it with the white side up, and then press it.
4.To get tar, dig a hole. Build a heat shield from stones and bricks. It promotes uniform temperature distribution in the combustion zone. Place crushed birch bark in a bucket. Cover it with a steel sheet (with holes in the center and a notch in the middle to collect birch bark tar). Make sure that the bulge is on top. On a perforated sheet with 4
Place a pan with holes Ø 3.5-4 mm into which the birch bark tar will drain.
5. Using pieces of wire stretched through 4 holes, pull the resulting structure tightly. Seal the gap between the bucket and the metal sheet with a thick clay solution to prevent tar from leaking out. Turn the resulting “installation” upside down and place this structure over the pit.
6.Line a bucket of birch bark with firewood. Light the wood. When the temperature reaches 600-650.C, birch bark tar will flow through the holes
flow into the receiving container (pan). This will take about 1.5 hours.
7. Pour the formed tar very carefully into a dark bottle. To prevent beneficial substances from evaporating, seal the glass container tightly. Under such conditions, tar can be stored indefinitely.

Velesferum 08/12/2012 - 21:29

>Making tar soap at home.
1. Take baby soap without strong fragrances or strong perfume.
2. Grate the soap.
3. Place in a water bath (it is better to use unnecessary dishes to prepare tar soap, since the smell of tar is very persistent). A water bath is done like this: take one pan, add water into it, put another pan or bowl inside it, in which the cooking itself takes place. Place the pots on the stove and cook the soap.
4. Pour the shaved soap into the top pan and add a tablespoon of water, stir until all the soap has dissolved.
5. Then add 2 tablespoons of birch tar to the adhesive mass (600 g of soap, that is, 3 pieces).
6. Mix well, let cool to 40
degrees and pour into molds. Small ones can be used as molds
yoghurt boxes.
7. Leave the tar soap in the molds for
open air for a week until completely hardened. The smell will go pretty
strong, maybe standing on the balcony, covering
soap for dust, or where you are not often.
You can use homemade tar soap even more often than store-bought soap.

You can use laundry soap (5g of tar per 100g), it melts in 20-30 minutes, you can add aromatic oils.
But, it is better to make stocks of laundry, baby and tar soap in advance, since it is not particularly expensive and can be stored for a very long time.

Vanya from the village 08/13/2012 - 10:24

Boatman61
This is of course great, but if we are not heating it on a gas stove, the pan will become smoked on the outside and you will still have to scrub it with sand.
Therefore, using my favorite detergent, I clean the dishes with sand both outside and inside. Alternating between dry and wet turns out very well.

What a neat guy you are 😊 We only wash the inside of the pots and put it in a large bag so it doesn’t get things dirty.

If you have stale bread, you can boil it in water.
and wash your hair with this porridge.
Hair stops falling out and hair is washed better than the coolest shampoos.
recipe from the 18th century (c). I tried it personally when I was young. Now I’m lazy to cook, I need to get up from the couch and look up from the keyboard and generally cut my hair bald 😊

There is another way with the same effect. but it takes some experience to prepare. It is made from a spoonful of flour.

dilute the flour in cold water.
Stirring constantly, pour into the water in small portions.
If we managed to do it without lumps, then we begin to heat it.
Bring to a boil and the super shampoo is ready. (or paste)

shelf life is several hours.

When I wash my hair, it doesn’t foam (it’s not usual at first). The substance is like jelly. It washes off well with water. the woman's effect is appreciated. Even long hair is easy to comb

Sandwich 01/27/2013 - 12:47

These are very useful
skills will be on the go,
because you don't have to charge
soap and detergents
means, and therefore weight
your equipment, albeit a little, will be less.

😊

First they will harass me for this, then they will leave me without sex, and in the morning I will wash the dishes myself with sand and all sorts of surrogates 😊

If PD has not yet begun, then why start suffering and enduring hardships?!

Icologists are a trolling freak trend.
By unplugging the charger from the socket while the iPhone crap is NOT charging in order to save money, no one has given up the car and flights to vacation “to the islands”, if of course there are any. 😊

In general, yes, it would be nice to repost real recipes for preparing all the essentials “from nothing”
He said more than once: Whoever can make soap, gunpowder, alcohol in “wild” conditions will provide himself with enough high level life.
Because society will definitely demand some of this (or all).

amatol 01/27/2013 - 12:57

Sandwich
By the way, can anyone make a banal barrel or at least knows approximately how it is?

enjoy http://honeygarden.ru/garden/barrel.php
I made a bucket like a tub - 3 times it didn’t even leak (only if it dried out, it would start leaking, you’d have to soak it), I tried the barrel 1 time and it didn’t work
http://www.how-to-build-a-house.rf/...jannuju-bochku/ from ready-made lumber (I haven’t tried it myself)