One of the most critical operations during construction wooden house– marking and cutting out the window opening. Mistakes at this stage will lead to many problems with insulation or to the need to strengthen the opening after it has been created. This review contains information on how to cut a window in wooden house and prevent gross errors in marking and during installation operations.
Separately, we note that the window in the log house has its own functional purpose a more important node than a similar element in a stone house, as it further strengthens the connection between the logs. Therefore, the thoroughness of each stage of its production must be extremely high.
A log house, despite its external solidity, is a rather unstable structure. The reason for this is the round shape of the logs and the change in their geometric dimensions during shrinkage and shrinkage.
Under the influence of the weight of the roof and attic in log house This often causes distortion of walls in the vertical plane. If the crowns were laid without additional fixation, the lower logs can be squeezed out either inside the room or outside. In practice, such displacements from the vertical axis can reach up to 3-5 cm, while the entire wall is under significant stress.
If you cut openings for windows and doors in such a wall, it will simply collapse. Therefore, the entire structure of the window openings is not only a place for installing double-glazed windows, but also a power unit that gives the frame additional rigidity.
Note that this feature is inherent in all wooden buildings, including houses made of profiled timber.
Features of installing windows in wooden houses
Taking into account the factors listed in the previous section, an additional strength structure is almost always installed between the window and the frame - a casing frame assembled in such a way as to counteract both vertical compressive forces and longitudinal ones.
There are three main types of casing frames:
- spiked socket (T-shaped);
- casing into a deck (U-shaped);
- pigtail in the embedded block.
- the upper and lower edges of the opening should pass through the center of the log (or cover 1/3). This is necessary for the normal operation of the casing and to prevent problems with insulation;
- It is advisable to mark horizontal lines using precise level gauges;
- Make vertical markings only along a plumb line.
If you plan to do the work yourself, you should take care in advance to prepare the appropriate equipment.
The main tool used when arranging window and door openings is a chain saw (or its electric version).
If there are many windows, and you plan to chamfer for installation of platbands, we recommend making a special device based on an angle grinder, with the help of which the time spent on this operation will be reduced significantly.
First working stage: cutting out the opening
After the marking is completed, cutting out the opening begins. During this seemingly simple operation, the following rules must be observed:
- the cutting plane must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the logs;
- The cutting line should run in such a way that there are no distortions and spontaneous falling out of the logs.
After cutting the opening, it is necessary to check the condition of the end of the frame to ensure that the vertical axis is maintained. If deviations are noticed, then the next stage of work is leveling the wall.
This is done with the help of special devices that pull the logs into one line.
This screed is temporary and is dismantled after installation of the casing.
Please note that in cases where an increase in wall distortions is detected, it is advisable to install a U-shaped version of the frame.
Step two: creating a tenon or groove
When marking cutting lines, it should be taken into account that each line must be on the same plane with a similar line at the opposite end of the opening.
If the work is done with a chain saw, first cut from the end of the logs and only then remove the rest of the material.
After the tenons (or grooves) are formed, the ends of the opening are treated with an antiseptic compound.
Note that from a technological point of view, a groove cut deep into a log is more complex than an external tenon. In industrial conditions, such an operation is performed using a milling cutter; in field conditions, using a chain saw.
Step three: installation of the pigtail
The preparation of the opening is completed by installing the casing frame. It is not recommended to leave a freshly cut opening without a fixing structure, as this can lead to distortions.
This type of work, such as framing door and window openings in a wooden house, is a prerequisite for newly constructed buildings. Without additional strengthening, over time the house may become unsafe, so in this case a lot depends on the quality of the work.
Framing of openings is a necessary measure in wooden houses
Why do you need a pigtail?
What is a door frame? At its core, this is the construction of additional supports that will prevent the walls from moving during gradual shrinkage throughout the entire life of the building. For wooden houses such an operation is of particular importance, since the specificity of the material increases the risk of distortion of the planes. Over the years, even the highest quality wood begins to dry out, and the pressure on the foundation of the house leads to the fact that its walls and floors can change their original position.
What functions does this design perform:
- protects the building from the effects of shrinkage;
- ensures the presence of a special technological gap at the top of the opening;
- improves the connection of logs;
- necessary for installing doors and windows.
The edging must be done within the first ten years after the construction of the building, otherwise the feasibility of the operation will be lost. It is advisable to do this during the construction stage.
The door frame will protect the home from the consequences during shrinkage
Components
In order to perform high-quality edging in a wooden house, it is necessary to understand the main components of the structure. First of all, you need to highlight the following details:
- Sidewall. These are side posts connected to the wall of the house; they act as guides along which the walls will move. At the same time, the shape and strength of the opening will remain unchanged.
- Vershnik. This is the upper transverse strip, it connects to the sidewalls and serves as a horizontal spacer, at the same time it holds the contours of the opening and forms a shrinkage gap with the seal.
- Threshold. This is the lower part of the doorway; in window structures, its role is played by the window sill. It bears the main load.
In order for the frame of the opening to withstand the load that the walls of a wooden house will put on it, it is best to use laminated veneer lumber. For a tenon connection, a strip with a cross section of 50x50 mm is used. To finish the slopes, an additional straight board is taken.
Components of the design of a frame for a wooden house
Basic methods
Framing door and window openings in a wooden house can be done in one of the following ways:
- Embedding block. A recess is cut into the side parts of the opening, into which a plank of the same size is driven tightly, then a rough box is filled on top of it, and the top is fixed separately.
- Thorn monolith. In this case, the embedding block and part of the box are a single piece; it is cut out of the block and driven into a prepared groove in the wall; a transverse strip is applied on top.
- To the deck. The piping of doorways is carried out using the opposite principle; now the tenon is created on the side of the wall, and a box consisting of slats with a recess and a straight top is put on it.
- Into a tenon with a finished slope. The principle of creating a frame for a wooden house is the same as in the case of the “tenon monolith” method, the only difference is that in this case a ready-made box is installed. The parts have additional protrusions that tightly fit around the opening.
The most common ways to frame openings
Today, a very popular method is the use of an embedded block; as a modification of it, the “tenon monolith” technique is also used. The technology must be selected depending on the characteristics of the building and the skills of the builders.
Sequence of work
Since it is best to make a doorway frame in a wooden house at the very beginning of construction, all operations can be divided into several stages:
- Formation of the opening. First you need to determine the location of the doorway. This is best done at the building design stage, since it is necessary to take into account the basic principles of architecture and distribute the load on the walls. In a wooden house, the exact dimensions can be adjusted after laying the logs; for this purpose, markings are made, and then a rectangle of the required dimensions is cut out using a chainsaw.
- Cutting fasteners. Next you need to prepare the mounting points. This stage directly depends on the technology used. If you plan to drive the pigtail into the prepared groove, you need to cut recesses 50 mm deep and 50 mm wide in the side sections. If, on the contrary, the strips will be put on the protrusion, you need to cut out the corresponding element.
- Sidewall installation. A 50x50 mm strip is driven into the cut-out recess. It should be somewhat shorter at the top so that the walls have room for movement, the joints are sealed and a rough core is nailed to the opening. Make sure that nails and screws do not interfere with the plank.
- Installation of the top. The upper transverse strip is placed on the prepared protrusions. Insulation, for example, mineral wool, is laid between the wall and the frame. Foam cannot be used. Additionally, the frame is attached to the walls anchor bolts, cut at an angle. The top and sides are connected in the same way.
Next, you can install the door itself directly. Before installing the frame, be sure to remove sawdust and treat all wood with an antiseptic. If you do everything right, your home will be completely safe to live in even after several decades.
The casing is essentially a protective element in the design of a window or door opening, which ensures the safety of the geometry of the windows/doors. A casing or window frame in a wooden house is a kind of buffer between a heavy “living” wall and fragile glass. The correct casing will last as many years as the house itself.
The need to line openings is determined by the very nature of a wooden house. Let us explain in more detail - the vast majority of log houses/timber houses are built from wood natural humidity(that is, no one specially dries the logs before construction). This wood begins to gradually dry out, while decreasing in size. Accordingly, the walls “sit down” in height.
The process of house shrinkage lasts for years. But even after 3-5 years, no one will undertake to guarantee that the openings will not leak in the future. Therefore, since ancient times, windows and doors in wooden houses were installed with casing boxes - they were then called decks.
Painting by Vasily Maksimov “Interior view of a hut”, 1869 - a door surrounded by a log.
Modern casing is a technological thing, perfectly suited for installing plastic and aluminum windows, heavy balcony blocks, metal entrance doors. Let's take a closer look at what types of casing are now popular, methods of its manufacture, and installation scheme in openings.
Types of casing
The classic casing block looks like the letter “P” from the end. Now this form of casing also remains the most popular. In timber houses with thin walls, casing with the letter “T” has become popular. Separately, it is worth highlighting the casing in the embedded (cranial) block. These are 3 main types of casing boxes.
For each of these types, different profile geometries have also been developed - with or without a quarter cut, with a slant, or antique. According to processing methods and purpose, they also distinguish between rough and finishing casing, Euro casing, power casing, arched casing, carriage casing, semi-antique casing, and plywood casing. There are even combined options, when the outer layer of the product is made of valuable wood.
Let us consider in detail each type of casing.
Casing with the letter "P"
The casing box shape has been proven for centuries. Sturdy, reliable. It is most often installed in log houses and houses made of rounded logs. Typically, a quarter is selected from the outside of the casing for installation of a window or door frame.
Requires the formation of a tenon in the wall.
Casing with the letter "T"
T-casing appeared on the market relatively recently, when profiled timber with cut bowls entered the market. At the ends of the openings of such house kits, a groove was already selected from the factory.
T-type is used mainly in timber houses with a wall thickness of 100-150 mm, and log houses made of rounded logs of small diameter. Requires cutting a groove in the wall. In a high-quality T-pipe, the spike is glued into the body, which greatly increases the rigidity of the product. It’s even better when the tenon and the main one are one.
Casing in a mortgage (cranial) block
Defective T-type casing box. The embedding block is usually used at the stage of cutting or assembling a log house so that the openings do not warp. After construction is completed, a wide board is attached to this beam with self-tapping screws, to which the frame (window, door) is attached.
If you use regular lumber from the market (not kiln-dried), then there is a high probability of being remade in the future. Reasons: the block is pinched and bent when the frame shrinks, which causes it to jam in the groove and stops the shrinkage. When the board dries, it warps the frame. The block is pressed against the board only at the points where it is fastened with self-tapping screws - it bends relative to them, and the casing begins to blow through.
From the practice of our company, per year our teams remodel up to 80 other people’s properties, where windows and doors were installed in embedded bars. The photo shows a real case.
Rough casing (for finishing)
An inexpensive option for frames for log houses and log houses where further finishing is planned. All parts of the casing can be made from solid wood or using the adhesive method; polishing of the products is not performed. Profile shape T or P, quarter not selectable. Plastic windows are placed on an installation profile, the window sill is plastic, and the slopes are usually also made of PVC. Inside and outside the opening is finished with platbands.
The window is installed on a plane (without making a groove).
Finishing from solid wood
Must be made only from high-quality and dry wood. Most often from ordinary pine after forced drying, Karelian pine, cedar, larch, KELO cracker. U-type profile shape, with or without choice of quarter. Looks great in hand-cut log houses, houses made of thick logs, gun carriages.
Euro casing (finishing glue)
A popular option for finishing casing (which does not require finishing of slopes). It is made using the glue-type method from dry bars - glued into a sheet (with knots) or into a micro-tenon (without knots). The profile of the euro casing can be P and T type, straight or with an extension into the opening, with or without a quarter.
Antique gun carriage casing
Casing box made from KELO carriage - for high-status houses and baths, hunting lodges. It does not require the installation of platbands - the seam between the casing and the wall is caulked and closed with decorative rope. The visible part of the casing is skillfully aged (firing, brushing). P-type casing profile, options with or without quarter opening, with expansion of openings into the house.
Antique casing (with platbands)
Classic European casing is fired and aged using the brushing method (during processing, the soft fibers of the top layer are removed, the surface becomes rough, but polished). T- and P-type profiles, quarter cuts, and opening expansion are possible. Wooden trims are made in the same style.
Combined casing
The base of the product is made of solid pine, and the top layer is made of a composite adhesive board, which can be made of pine, oak, beech, and valuable wood species. The combined casing successfully combines a reasonable price and aesthetic appearance. The profile of such casing can be P or T type.
Plywood casing
The technology for manufacturing a plywood casing is the same as for LVL timber. The plywood sheets are glued together securely. The tenon in the T-profile can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
The plywood casing can be used as a rough casing (for finishing).
How the casing is installed
In general, the process technology is as follows:
- an opening is cut in the wall
- a tenon is formed on the sides of the opening or a groove is selected
- the opening is insulated with jute tape
- a wind block is laid at the bottom of the opening and a window sill is mounted
- risers are installed
- the top is mounted
- the free space above the top is sealed with soft insulation
Differences in the installation of door and window casing
The door casing may be missing the lower part - the threshold. In this case, the bottom of the risers is bolted to the lower crown/beam.
The lower part is always present in the window casing. But its appearance may differ. The following options are possible:
- in the rough casing the lower part is not visible. The window sill is usually plastic, matching the color of the frame.
- in the finishing/Euro casing, the lower part acts as a window sill. In this case, the casing can move inside the room and to the sides of the opening, forming so-called ears.
The video shows the entire process of installing a door casing in a timber house (T-type, with the formation of a tenon in the wall):
The technology for installing casing in a timber or log house is the same.
Manufacturing of casing
High-quality casing should be made of dry wood (forced drying in drying chambers, output humidity 8-10%). Boards and timber from the construction market are not suitable for these purposes, precisely because of the high humidity.
Pine wood is most often used, as it is the most common and inexpensive. Spruce is also used. Exclusive options are also possible - cedar, larch, Karelian pine, KELO crackers.
The basis for the solid casing is a carriage with a thickness of 50 mm or more. For P-casing, a carriage of 90 mm is used. The width of the casing board is equal to the thickness of the wall.
The adhesive casing can be with or without knots. In the first case, the prepared bars are glued together on their sides - this method is called sheet gluing. Knot-free casing is assembled from short bars, which are glued together at their ends - into a microspike (looks like a comb).
How to calculate the size of the casing/opening
Let's say that you want to install a plastic window measuring 1 meter in width and 1.2 meters in height in a log house with a wall thickness of 150 mm. At the same time, only technical openings have been cut in your house. Let's do the math.
First, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the casing. For the selected conditions, casing with a T-shaped profile, glued “in-situ”, 55 mm thick, is ideal. The window sill will be plastic, which means the lower part of the casing can be taken with a smaller thickness - 45 mm.
If the frame is installed without a quarter (on a plane), then the width of the cut opening should be 15 cm greater than the width of the frame (1.5 cm for foam, 0.5 for jute, 55 for the riser). The final width of the opening is 115 cm.
With a quarter, the width of the opening will be +12 cm, the total - 112 cm.
What happens if you leave the openings WITHOUT casing?
Answers to the most frequently asked questions
Greetings, dear readers!
I decided to replace the old windows in a wooden house myself. This is not at all easy, so before that I looked at a bunch of sites and forums, talked with friends who were doing the installation. And I outlined for myself the basic rules for installation.
First you need to take measurements of the windows in order to know the exact dimensions and order the window correctly.
Next, you need to dismantle the old windows. Then he prepares the installation site for the window; to do this, you need to remove the dust and debris that accumulated during dismantling. Next, we install the window sill and prepare the plastic window for installation. Then we install the window itself.
At first it seems very simple, but there are small nuances, taking into account which you can easily do it. I want to tell you more about the installation later in this article.
Installing plastic windows with your own hands in a wooden house. Installation technology. Instructions, photos
Installation plastic windows with your own hands into the prepared frame of a wooden house, like other construction and installation work, is carried out using a building level and a plumb line.
It is very important that the plastic windows in the house are strictly level, otherwise an open window sash, for example, will close itself or, conversely, open under its own weight. Thus, the technology for installing plastic windows in the frame of a wooden house includes setting it level and plumb before fixing the window.
Here are our instructions, developed by our own experience, for installing plastic windows in a log house.
First, I would like to note one point that you will need to remember when purchasing plastic windows: When you buy windows, it would be good to immediately buy mounting fasteners for them, ideally 6 pieces per window.
These are iron plates (see photo) which, with the help of little effort, are fixed in special technical slides on the sides of the window frame. Thus, the frame is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws through these mounting fasteners.
During installation, many installers of plastic windows fasten the window by drilling through the frame, but this is a violation of technology, and the tightness of special air chambers in the profile of the plastic window is thus broken, so this is not our method.
Plastic windows in a wooden house are generally a very capricious thing, but if the correct installation technology is followed, then such windows in your house will last a long time, without upsetting their owners with all sorts of distortions and other problems.
To ensure that installing windows yourself does not turn into torture, we advise you to remove the window sashes from the window frame. To remove them, you need to pull the pins out of the loops. Without window sashes, the frame weighs little, and it will be much more convenient to tilt it, which will greatly facilitate the installation of windows.
The instructions for installing plastic windows in a prepared frame of a wooden house are as follows:
Align the window. We place the window on the lower part of the opening on wood chips about 2 cm thick and adjust it horizontally. For setting a horizontal level, the best tool, in our opinion, is a water level.
You can’t fool the water; it always levels out with the horizon.
Thus, having installed the window exactly at the horizon level, placing chips of the required thickness under the frame for this purpose, leaving about a two-centimeter gap at the bottom for foaming with polyurethane foam, we proceed to setting the vertical level so that the window sashes do not live their own lives.
I don’t think it’s worth explaining in detail how the vertical level is set when installing a plastic, or any other window, everything is clearly visible in the photograph.
After we have placed the window level, we attach it to the frame with self-tapping screws through the above-mentioned mounting fasteners.
There is one technological point here - do not hit the ridge of the log on which the pigtail sits with a self-tapping screw.
It is better to screw in the self-tapping screw slightly obliquely than to deprive the frame structure of its independence from the frame in terms of the free movement of the carriages along the ridges of the logs.
The next step in our instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house will be attaching the window sashes. It is necessary to hang the sashes on the window before foaming, but if you foam the frame without sashes, the mounting foam may slightly bend the frame, and the sashes will not close/open well.
Thus, if the technology is followed correctly and the installation of the frame and the plastic window is carried out smoothly, your window should be positioned in such a way that there will be approximately 2 cm of space for the mounting foam on all sides from the frame to the frame.
And above the upper part of the frame there will be a gap of 5-10 cm to the log for shrinkage of the log house, so that when it is completely dry, the upper logs do not put pressure on the windows.
Foaming the window. Control check - On a window that is already fixed, but not yet foamed, with the sashes inserted, open the window and look.
If the half-open sash of a plastic window does not try to open further or, on the contrary, close, then our window is installed correctly and you can foam the frame with polyurethane foam.
This is our DIY technology for installing plastic windows. We hope you find it useful in building your wooden house! Happy construction!
http://dachaclub.rf/
How to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands
In our wooden house, we decided to replace the old wooden windows with modern plastic ones. This article discusses in detail the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands in a wooden house. The article is based on personal experience. Why is it profitable to install windows yourself:
When installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house by a supplier or manufacturer, the cost of the window along with installation will cost 40-50% more than its original cost.
As a rule, about 95% of companies that install windows do not guarantee the quality of installation in a wooden house. Therefore, when you install plastic windows in a wooden house yourself, you do not lose the warranty period, but only save for your own benefit.
Window installation is shown using the example of self-installation of a double-glazed window, without the help of others, which takes an average of two and a half hours (for one window). The following describes step by step the process of inserting a plastic window into the window opening of a wooden house.
Removing old windows
Self-installation double-glazed windows in a wooden house are made on a solid base (frame). Since in our example, the window boxes were installed quite recently (about 5 years ago) and were without damage (cracks, chips, rotten formations and wormholes), we decided to use them instead of a frame for installing new windows.
Old window frames that are in good condition and strong enough can be reused, for example, to install a greenhouse.
Therefore, in order not to damage the wood of the frame, they must be dismantled carefully; it also does not hurt to remove the glass from them before doing this. In our case, we did not remove the glass from the frame, since the durable frames did not warp when removing them and were dismantled quite easily.
Preparing a site for installing double-glazed windows
With a dry and clean rag (or soft brush) you need to wipe the window frame and remove the waste and debris that has accumulated after dismantling.
The PVC window sill is installed first, since it is the base of the double-glazed window when it is installed. In this regard, the window sill should be installed as level as possible (ideally horizontal). We check the exact horizontal installation of the window sill with a level, both longitudinally and transversely.
To ensure that the window sill stands firmly, we make cuts up to 8 mm deep on the sides of the window frame. To adjust the evenness of the window sill, we use special plates made of plastic or fiberboard, or thin wooden planks treated in advance with an antiseptic. After the final installation of the window sill, we measure the evenness of the window sill with a building level.
We fasten the window sill with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the window frame, while making a 2 cm indent from the outer end of the window sill. When tightening the screws, we place washers under their heads in order to protect the surface of the window sill from damage, which is possible if it is broken through by the self-tapping head (at PVC window sills have cavities). After the window is completely installed, the places where the window sill is attached will not be visible, since they will be hidden from view.
Preparing a plastic window for installation
At the very beginning, even before installing the window, you need to install the handle. There is no need to remove all the protective film from the window surface yet, as it protects the window from possible mechanical damage.
Note!
The protective film is removed only in the place where the handles need to be installed. The handle handles must be in a horizontal position when installed.
This position means that the window opens on its side, and if the handle is turned down, the window will be locked in the closed state, but if the handle handle is turned up, the window will open in the crank mode.
We fix the handle to the window with two bolts and move the handle handle down. On the side posts of the window (at the ends) we make markings for making holes on which the window will be fixed to the block.
Next, using an electric drill, we drill two through holes (lower and upper) along this marking in the right pillar of the double-glazed window and in the lower pillar (4 holes in total). The distance between the bottom and top parts of the glass unit to the hole should be from 25 to 35 cm. The diameter of the drill for this work should be 6 mm, while the diameter of the screw is 5 mm.
To ensure that the head of the screw rests firmly on the window frame, we drill holes on the inside of the side posts for fastening with a drill with a large diameter of 10 mm, right up to the metal frame itself. The hole should be such that the head of the screw fits freely into the cavity of the window post.
Window installation
We install the assembled window into the window opening. We control the center using measurements taken with a tape measure starting from the edge of the window and ending with the surface of the window frame on both sides; the distance should be the same (about 1 cm).
We install the window on the surface of the previously installed window sill. Since we have already checked the window sill for levelness using a building level, there is no need to check the window itself for horizontalness.
To install a window parallel to the wall of the house, install it between the wall and the siding for support building level. If the house was sheathed differently finishing material for example, clapboard that fits tightly to the wall and does not allow you to place a level, then you need to use a plumb line for control.
We install a spacer bar 1 cm wide between the window frame and the window. It is necessary that this block fits tightly enough between the window frame and the window. This block is needed as a stop at the moment when the window is attached to the window opening using self-tapping screws.
If this is not done, then the window may move to the side when it is fastened (it will simply be pulled away) and at the same time the mechanism for opening and closing the window will not function well, or the window sash will not open at all.
When the installation of the stop bars is completed and the window is aligned with a level or slope parallel to the wall of the house, then we fix the double-glazed window with self-tapping screws. We fix the window to the window frame from the bottom and top of its side posts, so that the self-tapping screw is in the free space between the frame and the window.
Such fastening is not only reliable, but also provides a floating effect. If there are seasonal shifts in the structure of the house, warping the window openings, then windows that are not rigidly attached to the frame are almost not subject to warping, due to the fact that the self-tapping screw can arbitrarily move in the direction of the skew of the window frame.
Installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house
First, install adjusting plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the glass unit does not cover the openings through which condensation is drained from the window.
Carefully install the double-glazed window into the window opening. We make sure that it does not fit tightly between the window posts, since if seasonal changes occur and, accordingly, distortions of the window frame, the glass may burst.
Note!
If your glass unit fits tightly, and there is no gap between the window mullions and the glass unit (at least 5 mm), then you should seek an explanation from the company that made the windows for you, so that the company’s employees can eliminate this deficiency. It is necessary to check the gaps between the frame and the glass unit before removing the old window.
We install the double-glazed window evenly and fix it with plastic beads, which have profile tenons that are inserted into the grooves of the window frame by lightly tapping the beads, when the tenon goes into the groove and a click is heard. A click means the staple is securely fastened.
After the window is installed, we fill the void between the window frame and the window with foam for installation, both on the inside and outside of the house. Excess hardened polyurethane foam is cut off with a sharp knife.
After this, you can begin finishing with platbands, fittings and drainage.
source: http://stroykaportal.ru/
How to properly install plastic windows in a wooden house
The relevance of the question: “How to install plastic windows in a wooden house” (and not only plastic ones) lies in the fact that wooden houses have great instability. Moreover, unlike a stone or reinforced concrete house, this instability manifests itself throughout the entire service life of a wooden house.
If these factors are not taken into account when installing plastic windows or doors in a wooden house, very unpleasant (to put it mildly) problems may arise!
What is special about a wooden house? And the fact is that wood tends to “shrink,” especially in the first years after construction. Those who claim that the log house shrinks within a year after its installation are mistaken.
Yes, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs in the first year, but the process continues for at least 5 years, and in some climatic zones – for a lifetime! As the logs or beams dry, the height of the wall can decrease to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. This means that the height of the wall can “shrink” up to 6 cm.
And imagine now what will happen to the plastic window if, as always, you left a gap of 2 - 2.5 cm for the foam?! So, is installing plastic windows in a wooden house generally unrealistic? Quite the opposite!
But only if a special structure, called a casing or casing, is installed in the opening.
The purpose of this design is to give windows (and not only plastic ones) complete independence from the load-bearing walls of the house, to eliminate even the slightest load on the window when the walls shrink or bend:
- The casing prevents the logs from moving from the vertical in the window opening.
- Does not interfere with vertical shrinkage.
- Takes on all the load.
- Strengthens the wall of the house in the area of the opening.
Let's take a closer look at this system. The simplest casing option is when a vertical groove of 50x50 mm is cut at the ends of the opening logs and a beam of the same size is inserted into it.
But this method of framing is ONLY suitable for wooden windows. Therefore, we will not dwell on it. A more reliable casing option is when a ridge is made at the ends of the logs, and a window carriage with a groove is put on it.
Now the logs, when shrinking (due to the ridge), will slide inside the groove without deviating from the vertical and without pressing down on the window.
It happens that a groove is made in logs, but the tenon is on the gun carriage, the main meaning, I think, is clear.
Window carriages are vertical beams 150x100 mm, at the ends of which 50x50 cutouts are made for inserting horizontal lintels - boards 150x50 mm with tenons at the ends.
The assembled casing is made smaller than the window opening by 7 - 8 cm in height. This gap is left to allow for wall shrinkage. When assembling the frame in the opening, we cover the ridges with rolled tow and stuff the carriages onto it. This will save us from squeaks during shrinkage and insulate the opening.
Note!
Next, the procedure is as follows: we lay the lower jumper, stuff carriages onto the ridge with tow, insert the upper jumper into the upper gap and lower it into the grooves. We fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws, trying not to grab the ridge, otherwise the whole point of installing the casing will be lost. We also stuff tow into the gap between the sapling and the logs.
But now you can install plastic windows into a wooden house without fear of the consequences. We carry out installation in compliance with all technologies: steam - noise - moisture protection. The gap between the casing and the frame is filled with thin boards wrapped in tow.
As the house shrinks, they have to be knocked out and replaced with others. To do this, the upper casing (attached only to the casing) is carefully removed and, after replacing the filling, put back in place.
At seminars I was often asked the question: why does a window installer need to know the technology of building a wooden house? And then, so that you can determine whether it is possible to install a window in this opening.
And, if necessary, equip it with a classic casing. Of course for a fee. In my practice there have been such cases.
Now such an important moment. You install a plastic window in a wooden house where there are wooden windows. The platbands were removed for accurate measurements, but there was no casing. That is, the old window box acts as a window frame.
This is where the owner has to make a choice (with your help): remodel the window opening for casing or very significantly reduce the size of the future window. After all, on each side you need to add the thickness of the casing + window frame + gap for foam. And what will remain there?!
And in conclusion, I want to warn you:
Helpful advice!
Under no circumstances agree to install windows without casing in the opening. Even if the owner proves that the house is 300 years old and “all the shrinkage has already settled.” The tree “breathes” all its life with all the consequences, as they say.
Well, as a last resort, you can give in to the client, at his responsibility. But do not forget to put a dash in the contract in the “Guarantee” column!!!
Still, installing plastic windows in a wooden house requires very serious attention.
The performance qualities of plastic window structures allow them to be used in the construction or repair of any buildings and structures. When working, it is worth taking into account the differences and features of the installation process.
Let's study in more detail the intricacies of installing windows in a wooden house.
Peculiarities
The peculiarities of installing plastic windows in a wooden house require a number of additional manipulations. This is due to the fact that the structure settles over time. Moreover, such work has differences in an old wooden house and in a new, newly built dwelling.
Before moving on to studying it, it’s worth clarifying what you need to know about shrinkage. This is a natural process of changing the parameters of the walls due to the drying of the wood base.
The shrinkage of a wooden structure depends on a number of factors:
- type of material (timber, laminated veneer lumber, log);
- time of material procurement (summer, winter);
- time of day of collection (evening, morning, afternoon);
- area of forest growth (field, swamps);
- density and resinity of the material;
- dimensions;
- humidity indicators;
- dimensions of the entire structure.
The greatest shrinkage will occur in a log frame. The shrinkage parameter of a rounded log has a lower value. The shrinkage rate of new laminated veneer lumber is even slightly lower. There will be practically no shrinkage observed in an old timber or log house.
Almost any wooden house is a constantly moving structure. This phenomenon is practically not observed in stone or concrete structures. Due to the instability of the wooden structure, the installation of PVC windows should be carried out not in the existing opening, but in a pre-prepared box. It will represent a connecting link between the wall and the window structure.
The box is called differently: casing, pigtail, linden, etc. Without this element, a wooden house will “walk” and begin to put pressure on window structures.
In the shrinkage gap between the top in the casing and the wall of the house It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam. The hardened mass is rigid, so it will transfer the pressure of the upper elements of the wall to the window, negating the functions of the casing. The upper casing gap is insulated with other materials, which you will learn about later.
Another pitfall when installing windows can be incorrect calculation of window sizes. Without taking into account the installation gap, the window opening will have to be expanded in any case.
A window opening that is too large will have a negative impact on the performance of the structure.. Simply foaming it cannot be reduced, and without proper insulation, the slopes will always be cold. When installing windows, it is important to immediately protect the installation gap. The cracks on the outside are closed with special tapes.
Another important feature of installing plastic windows is exact alignment with the level. Inaccuracies at this point will lead to rapid failure of the fittings.
It is also important to take into account the correct placement of the window in the wall. For example, if it is located in a cold zone, this will cause it to freeze. Condensation will certainly accumulate on the inside.
Knowing the features of installing plastic windows, you can decide to install them yourself. After all, many companies providing such services do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. Therefore, it is worth exploring casing options in more detail.
In addition to plastic windows, metal-plastic structures, wooden, aluminum, and combined ones can be installed in a wooden house. Wooden windows have a lot of advantages, but among others they are the most expensive. Plastic structures are more affordable and require less maintenance. Modern manufacturers offer designs in a wide range of colors.
When choosing any design, it is important to understand the installation process of a window structure. This is necessary not only for self-installation. Knowledge is also important for monitoring the process of work that employees will perform.
Casing options
Casing is definitely needed for windows that will be installed in a new wooden house made of timber or logs. The structure will also be needed for unstable soils. It will be additional protection for the window, which in this case may become warped.
There is no need to do casing for windows frame house. Here the frame itself will provide the necessary rigidity of the structure. Considering the simplicity of the casing construction process, it is still better to do it for this type of building.
The correct casing installation technology involves the use of three types of structures:
- spike-monolith;
- embedded block;
- into the deck.
The most labor-intensive part is the tenon-monolith casing., but she is the most reliable. For this design, a groove is cut out in the box, the dimensions of which fit the pre-prepared tenon on the sides of the box. If you do not have carpentry skills, it is best to install the casing in the embedded block.
Casing “in the deck” is the most expensive both in terms of labor costs and materials costs. The guide for the box here is a spike, which is installed in the end parts of the opening. Grooves are cut on the sides of the tenon. The top is attached to the side decks with self-tapping screws, and the window sill is installed on wooden dowels.
Installation of any window frame begins with the window sill. After this, work moves on to the apex, under which side stands are needed.
It must be taken into account that the maximum shrinkage of the house is about 35 cm depending on the strength of the base. Regular timber can give a larger shrinkage - up to 40 cm, and a smaller one - laminated timber. The consequences of incorrect calculations may manifest themselves later in operation, resulting in the need to replace the entire structure.
The material for the casing can be glued or monolithic timber. The use of laminated veneer lumber is not recommended in bathhouses, but this material is suitable for home use. Temperature and humidity changes are observed in the baths, causing the laminated veneer lumber to collapse.
If monolithic timber is used, it is important that it is dry. Material with moisture content greater than 12% will behave or crack.
Monolithic timber must be specially chamber-drying; if this is not available, the material will have to be dried in the shade for about 4-6 months.
There are also such types of casing as:
- Draft. The cheapest materials are suitable for it. The casing is used for planned internal and external finishing works. In contrast, finishing casing does not require finishing. It already has a slope; the window can be installed immediately after attaching the frame.
- Arched. This decorative variety is valued for its originality. This design can use several glued parts or a single curved block.
- Power. This option is used for large panoramic windows, gates, balconies, and doorways. Thick wood is used for manufacturing.
- Eurosurface. This option is similar to finishing, as it does not require additional finishing. A special feature of this type is the use of solid lamellas with a special adhesive composition.
- Combined. This option is made of solid wood, and has an outer layer of type-setting adhesive decorative base. This form combines beauty appearance and low price.
The casing for plastic windows of a wooden house can also be plastic. The installation features of this type require a wider opening in the log house (at least 10 cm) from the width of the glass unit. The manufacturing scheme involves installing a carriage with grooves, the dimensions of which should allow the frame to slide easily along the guides.
Preparatory work
The general rules for preparatory work will be as follows:
- A compensation gap is required between the top of the casing and the horizontal part of the window opening. It accounts for the maximum shrinkage of the house, which is possible at the time of installation of the frame.
- Wooden casing elements (tenon, groove, ends, top) must be treated with an antiseptic.
- The insulation is placed between the casing and the end of the wall. Suitable materials include flax wool and jute. The materials are secured using a stapler. The upper gap is insulated inside and outside. The insulation is secured with steam and waterproofing tape. If the tape is not sticky, it can be fixed with a stapler.
- The lower part of the frame is insulated with two-layer flax or jute. A windproof film is needed between the frame and the window sill.
- The frame is attached to the frame from the outside with a long self-tapping screw, which should press the structure along the entire plane of the box.
- If there are gaps on the outside, they are carefully insulated.
- At this stage, it is not advisable to use polyurethane foam. It will prevent shrinkage. Foam can be used only as a last resort, together with a vapor barrier.
- The best protection option would be to carefully caulk the gaps and then seal them with waterproofing tape. The main goal should be to prevent moisture from getting on the insulation.
- Lastly, the trims are attached and the ebbs are installed.
To determine the size of the gap, you need to take into account the thickness of the box material, taking into account the seams and the shrinkage coefficient of the structure.
An important preparatory stage is marking the opening for the window. Before you start cutting out the opening, you need to accurately mark it, and for this you need a level. The window opening must correspond to the levels on all planes. The pigtail must be cut as accurately as possible relative to the given level.
If the house is not made of timber, but is made of wood, the lower crown of the opening for the window must be cut out in such a way that a horizontal surface is obtained. The size of the opening is determined by the parameters of the window design, taking into account the size of the gaps.
Preparatory work involves the installation of a pigtail, which can be:
- T-shape. For it, a hole for a groove is created inside the end of the log slope. In the future, you need to place the profile in this groove.
- U-shaped. To do this, you need to cut a spike at the end of the log wall. In this case, a groove is created in the side casing post.
Installation
You can insert the pigtail correctly with your own hands from the windowsill. Step-by-step instructions further involve the installation of slopes, and the top on them. It is better to insulate the wooden parts of the casing after the external platbands without window glass are installed.
You can initially install the window frame to the frame using self-tapping screws. Fasteners must completely penetrate the body of the structure, but must not penetrate the wall. It is unacceptable for self-tapping screws to be screwed into the log. Therefore, the length of the fastening elements should not be greater than the width of the frame. Special wooden brackets can be inserted as fastening elements.
Okosyachka
As a result of correctly carried out preparatory work, the frame along the frame should stand perfectly straight. The leading edge is placed strictly parallel to the casing plane. There should not be any significant distortions.
Decide what kind of waterproofing you will use when processing the gaps between the window frame and the glass unit. If the gaps are filled with foam, then it is worth considering that it is afraid of light and moisture. The seam is covered with platbands. The waterproofing used in this case should not allow water to pass inside, and moisture vapor should not escape outside. Proper waterproofing should not be susceptible to weathering.
If the frame is installed clean, this allows you to save on lining the window sill and slopes. For a more attractive final result, you need to know how to properly process wood. Accurate sizing calculations are also important, especially if done independently. Despite some difficulties, the solution with a finishing socket is the more correct choice.
Double-glazed window
Place the glass unit in the opening and carefully monitor the installation accuracy relative to the front edge of the frame. In wooden houses, it is not necessary to install a double-glazed window inside a third of the wall thickness. This is required by panel or brick buildings, as well as frames. The thermal conductivity of wood is lower in comparison with these structures.
If a double-glazed window is placed deep into the opening in a wooden house, the result will be a reduction in the already narrow window sill. In this case, the ledge from the outside must be additionally closed and subjected to hermetically sealed treatment. When installing a plastic profile, it is worth considering that the main conductor of cold inside is the profile itself.
A waterproofing tape with a vapor-permeable effect is suitable as a profile processing material. In combination with the tape, you can use Stiz-A sealant. It is acrylic, one-component, white, and adheres well to base materials. building materials, including wood.
The procedure for filling the gaps between the casing and the window structure is as follows:
- foaming;
- waiting for the foam to dry;
- cutting off excess foam with a spatula;
- sealing seams with tape.
You can buy self-adhesive tape in stores, which includes a membrane and a sealant applied on one or both sides. Rolls on sale come in various widths. For plastic windows, a narrow tape is sufficient. It looks like foam rubber. The foam on the inside of the window should also be closed. Special tapes are also selected for vapor barrier.
- Do not use metal fasteners when connecting casing parts.
- Observe optimal distance standards. For example, there should be at least 90 cm from the window sill to the floor.
- Install windows in a wooden house closer to the outside of the wall.
- Choose hard wood as a window sill. As a rule, a window sill made of solid wood will have the best qualities.
- Align the corners of the window opening with a level, setting it to 90 degrees. Diagonals may differ by 10 mm.
- Correctly calculate the window seating depth. The dew point contour should run along the inside of the opening. In this way, it is possible to ensure that there is no condensation on the inside of the structure.
When processing casing both inside and outside, you can use a variety of color and texture options for surfaces. Once the window installation is complete, all wooden surfaces can simply be sanded and varnished. Use a stain that matches the color. This way you will achieve a more harmonious appearance of the window sill and other parts of the casing against the background of the walls or window.