Installation of sliding gates. Installing sliding gates with your own hands: the process of installing electric gates with your own hands. How to make a sliding door with your own hands

Sliding gates, which until recently were a luxury item and cost a lot of money, are gradually entering the market for the average consumer. Ease of use and space saving completely justify the investment. There are a huge number of offers of ready-made structures from various domestic and foreign manufacturers. Many companies provide services for the manufacture and installation of such gates.

But if you have even a little experience with a welding machine and minimal skills in construction, then it will not be difficult to make such a structure with your own hands, thereby saving a decent amount of money.

Peculiarities

Sliding gates began to be actively used more than 50 years ago. At first, they could be seen mainly at the entrance to large industrial and warehouse areas. Over time, the design and fittings improved and became more accessible and easier to install. Gradually, various options for sliding gates began to be installed in private areas, and today they are not uncommon for summer cottages.

Unlike lifting and swing-type structures, sliding gates have many more advantages:

• Compactness. This is especially true in cases where travel between neighboring areas and space in the yard are limited. Also, sliding gates practically eliminate the possibility of damage to the car by the doors.
• Wear resistance. The main disadvantage of swing gates is the presence of hinges that are susceptible to sagging under the weight of the leaves. Sliding gates do not have such problems due to the uniform distribution of the weight of the structure over the roller supports.
• Burglary resistance. A properly designed and manufactured system can withstand the ramming of heavy vehicles.

• Windage protection. Even heavy gusts of wind do not damage such structures.
• Availability of automatic drives. The motor and components of automatic sliding gates are cheaper than equipment that is installed on swing and lifting structures.
• In winter, there is no need to clear snow before opening the sash.

Despite all the listed advantages, before you start manufacturing and installing gates, you need to take into account many other factors.

First you need to calculate the width of the span for vehicle entry. Typically, for the private sector, an opening of 4 meters is recommended: both cars and trucks can freely enter it. If necessary, the entrance width can be reduced to 3 or increased to 6 meters or more.

The free space along the fence on the rollback side of the sash must correspond to:

• for suspended and wheeled types of structures - the width of the canvas,
• for cantilever gates - 40-50% more than the width of the leaf.

Deep into the site at a distance of 40-50 cm from the fence, the space must be left free. The ground relief should be as smooth as possible, without strong differences, so that no obstacles arise along the movement of the lower beam.

If you study the instructions in detail, prepare high-quality materials and tools, you can make strong and beautiful gates with an individual design in a short time.

Types of structures

The main difference between the types of sliding structures is the way the rollers move when opening and closing the gate. Each variety uses special roller mechanisms, but they are installed differently.

Suspended type of construction

The gate leaf moves on roller trolleys located on a support beam, which is mounted on poles at the top of the passage. This is the most durable and wear-resistant option. The beam can withstand quite a lot of weight, so any materials can be used for cladding the gate, and the width of the leaf is practically unlimited. The disadvantage is that the passage of a tall car may be limited by the supporting beam.

Suspended structures are most often installed in production areas. To increase the space for travel, the beam is mounted on high support pillars. This greatly increases the metal consumption and cost of the entire structure, so this option is extremely rarely considered for the private sector.

The photo shows an example of hanging sliding gates at the entrance to a production facility.

But if the height of the entrance to the territory of a private house is initially limited by decorative or other structural elements, hanging gates will fit perfectly.

Rail type design

This type of sliding gate is the easiest to manufacture and install. The supporting part is the so-called rail, along which the sash moves on a special roller. The rail is installed along the line of movement of the gate at the same level with the road surface, so as not to interfere with the passage of traffic. The maximum span between fence posts can be 6 meters.

Snow may become clogged in the rail and ice may form, preventing the proper operation of the entire structure. In addition, it requires constant cleaning from sand and dirt.

The foundation holding the main rail must be stable, without chips or cracks, otherwise the gate may become deformed and quickly become unusable. The rail type of gate is usually used in dachas and houses that are visited only in the summer.

Cantilever type of construction

This type is the most common version of sliding gates, which is a leaf with a counterweight mounted on cantilever blocks. The absence of contact of the lower load-bearing beam with the road surface is the main advantage of this design. Thanks to this, problems due to bad weather are almost completely eliminated.

The disadvantages include the long process of pouring the foundation for the mortgage and the difficulty of installing the console. The total length of the structure is 50% longer than the gate leaf, which makes it impossible to install it with a large opening and insufficient width of the area.

Such gates can be made with a built-in wicket, but this is not always convenient. Since the canvas is raised from the ground by about 8-10 cm, the threshold of such a gate can be difficult for small children and elderly people to pass through.

More convenient to use and more aesthetically pleasing would be a separate gate, which is installed close to the gate - in a place where the rollback of the leaf is not provided.

All three types of roll-out structures can be made mechanical or automatic. Mechanical gates open and close manually, while automatic gates are controlled by a remote control and driven by a special motor. If desired, automation can be installed a little later, during the operation period, using the services of specialists.

The main labor costs fall on the manufacture and installation of the door leaf. Sheathing can be single-sided or double-sided. The appearance from the entrance is no different.

Principle of operation

Cantilever type gates are best suited for areas with changing weather conditions. Their production, installation and maintenance do not require unnecessary financial costs. To make a structure yourself, you first need to understand on what principle it works.

The design of cantilever retractable gates is quite simple:

• Gate leaf. The main frame with an internal frame welded to it and a counterweight are mounted on a supporting lower beam. The cladding of the fence, which is most often made using corrugated sheets, is fixed to the frame on one or both sides.
• Mortgage. A channel, tightly welded to a reinforcement cage and filled with a foundation at ground level. This is one of the most important parts of the structure on which console blocks and automation are installed. The durability of the entire fence structure depends on the quality of the foundation.
• Console blocks. Special roller support mechanisms, which are welded to the channel and installed in the supporting lower beam. The cantilever part is the main component of the entire structure, which bears all the loads. It determines how smoothly and freely the canvas will move, so you need to approach the setup of the console blocks very carefully.

• Catchers. The lower and upper catchers are mounted on a support pillar located opposite the foundation for the roller supports. When the gate is closed, the end roller, which is located at the end of the supporting beam, slides into the lower catcher. The canvas is raised by 5 mm, thereby relieving the load on the cantilever blocks. The upper catcher is needed in order to tightly fix the gate and prevent windage - swinging of the gate in strong winds.
• Top fixing holder with rollers. It is installed on a support pole above the cantilever blocks and prevents the gate from swinging and skewing during movement.
• Automatic drive. The choice of drive mainly depends on the weight of the structure and weather conditions in the region. Installation is carried out according to the instructions that come with the equipment.

Automation

The sliding design itself is convenient, but if you equip it with an electric drive, there is no need to get out of the car every time to open or close the gate. Experts advise installing special drives, but at your own risk you can make such a mechanism yourself.

To do this, use a suitable motor and gearbox. There are precedents when a screwdriver was used as a motor. Also, if the weight of the door leaf is small, it is possible to install a cheaper drive for garage doors.

Special drives must be selected based primarily on the weight of the structure:

• For gates weighing 250-300 kg, a drive with a power of 200-250 W is suitable.
• For a weight of 500-600 kg - suitable power is 350-400 W.
• For 800-1000 kg - 500-600 W.

When choosing an automatic, you should always take a small reserve of power. And in regions with harsh winters, it needs to be increased by at least 20-30% so that the engine can operate without interruption during sudden temperature changes. The drive can be installed only when all work on the manufacture and installation of the structure has been completed. The gate leaf should move easily, without jumping or swinging. An incorrectly installed blade can damage and ruin the automation.

Automatic drives can be chosen from among many offers from domestic and foreign manufacturers. You need to pay attention to such details as gears in the gearbox.

They can be plastic or metal. Metal gears are more expensive, but much more durable, so it is better to prefer them.

You should also carefully consider the selection of the limit switch. Its magnetic version costs a little more, but unlike the metal version, it does not jam in winter and works smoothly. For ease of use, there are various additional functions: temperature control of the electric drive, adjustment of the speed of movement of the sash, backup power, photocells for entry and exit, gate mode.

Among the manufacturers of drives for withdrawable structures, the following can be noted: Russian Doorhan, Belarusian An-Motors, Italian BFT, Faac and Nice, French Came, Chinese PS-IZ and Miller, as well as other manufacturers. Their line of offers is quite large, all that remains is to select the necessary equipment and you can begin installation.

Let's look at the automation kit using the example of the diagram above:

• drive unit;
• photocells for travel;
• photocells at the entrance;
• warning lamp;
• radio control antenna;
• key-button;
• rail;
• limit switch plates;
• remote control.

To work, you will need an inverter welding machine with electrodes and a drill with metal drills. Initially, on the channel between the carriages, you need to prepare and mark the area for attaching the electric drive. The equipment is attached to the base, which comes complete with the automation, and a gear rack is installed in the center of the motor gear.

After the working position has been recreated, you need to weld the base to the channel. If the electric drive needs to be raised, then a profile pipe of a suitable size can be additionally welded between the base and the channel.

After the drive is screwed to the base, you need to reinstall the rack on the motor gear, mark its correct position on the profile or beam with a marker, and carefully weld it in place. Before completely welding the seam between the rail and the beam, you need to double-check that it is installed correctly.

The gate must be completely open while working with the welding machine. After all the steps are completed, the limit switches are screwed to the rail using bolts and nuts with shoulders. Next, according to the instructions, the photocells, signal lamp, antenna and key button are installed.

The electric drive can be installed not only in the lower, but also in the middle or upper parts of the gate.

This method of connecting the automation is somewhat more complicated, but in cases of heavy snowfalls, it will not be necessary to clear the foundation area of ​​precipitation every day.

In this case, it will be necessary to adjust the drawing to the desired design.

The profile to which the rack will be attached will be located on the middle or upper level of the sliding gate, respectively. To attach the automation, it will be necessary to build on an additional structure made of a metal profile of a rectangular section of 60x40 mm.

Instead of a special electric drive, you can install a homemade drive from scrap materials. Taking into account the network voltage, a three-phase or single-phase motor is installed on the site. The three-phase drive is more powerful and virtually eliminates problems when starting movement. Depending on the weight of the door leaf, a motor with a power of 1.5 to 2.5 kW is required. At the same time, a low engine speed puts less load on the drive shaft.

It is better to choose a drive with 12 poles and a speed of 500 rpm or with 6 poles and a speed of 1000 rpm. The drive can be purchased in specialized stores, or you can use spare parts from an old car or washing machine.

The input torque of the gearbox must match the speed of the drive. The frequency of the output torque of the drive wheel should be within 80-100 rpm. It will be more convenient to use a single-stage gearbox. Its connection to the motor shaft is made using a rigid or semi-rigid coupling.

Features of calculations

Before you start designing a drawing, you need to make all the necessary calculations. First of all, the height and width of the gate are calculated. If the height of the fence on the site is known, then the height of the future road surface can be determined as follows: the upper part should be at the same level as the fence, and the lower part should be 8-10 cm higher than the road surface. The width of the gate is equal to the distance between the support beams, the recommended value is 4 meters.

Calculating the counterweight is also quite simple - its length should be equal to 50% of the length of the opening. This value can be reduced to 40% only in cases where there is not enough fence space to fully open the sash and the leaf is lined with lightweight materials.

The length of the counterweight profile connecting the top of the canvas and the edge of the bottom profile should be enough to form a triangle.

The value is calculated according to the dimensions using the following formula:

sqrt( func a^(2) + func b^(2) )

Or in a more familiar form, familiar from school

Where a is the length of the counterweight, b is the height of the canvas, c is the desired length.

Calculation of the weight of the structure is necessary for the correct selection of the guide beam, fittings and automation. Basically, the weight depends on the material with which the sheathing will be made, on the weight of the frame, frame and supporting beam, and on the wind load.

If 1 sq. m of profile sheet weighs 4 kg, then a steel sheet 2 mm thick weighs 17 kg. The weight of forged, wooden and other cladding is calculated individually. On average, a gate with a 4x2 m leaf, covered with a profile, will weigh about 200 kg.

For gates weighing up to 300 kg, a supporting beam with dimensions of 9x5 cm and a metal thickness of 3.5 mm is suitable. The fittings must support the full weight of the structure. It can be purchased as a ready-made kit or all components can be purchased separately. When purchasing, it is advisable to have a drawing with all the calculations with you so that you can consult with a specialist.

Design drawing

A diagram or drawing of a sliding gate is made after all measurements have been taken. The drawing with all the calculations is ordered from specialized companies. You can find ready-made sketches on the Internet, make them yourself, or use the ones below. For structures with a span of 4 meters, you can choose one of the two presented drawings.

In the first case, the load frame is 10% larger than the opening, which increases consumption facing material. The cost of the entire structure does not increase much, however, such an increase in expenses is most often not advisable. Therefore, let's look at the second drawing and make all calculations based on it.

The drawing must clearly indicate all dimensions, welding locations and fastenings. The rack can be attached both to the supporting beam and to the lower frame profile.

For a lightweight gate sheathed with a profile 4 meters wide and 2 meters high you will need:

• A load-bearing beam, which is a rail, the upper part of which is solid, and the lower part has a longitudinal cutout. It is better to choose a design made of cold-rolled steel. The beam is installed on cantilever blocks and moves on supporting rollers. The rail size in this case is 60x70 mm, the required length is 6 meters.

• For the load frame you need a rectangular profile of 60x40 mm and a metal thickness of 2 mm in sections:

1. 1 piece 4 meters long;
2. 1 segment – ​​6 meters;
3. 2 segments – approximately 2 meters each;
4. 1 segment – ​​about 2.8 meters.

In total, almost 17 meters of such a profile will be needed.

• For the frame, a rectangular profile of 20x20 mm or 30x20 mm with a metal thickness of 2 mm is suitable. In total, about 24 meters of profile are needed.

• For a mortgage, you will need a channel 20-40 cm wide and a length equal to ½ of the gate opening: in this case, 2 meters. The thickness of the metal must be at least 3 mm. Console blocks and an electric drive mechanism will be installed and welded onto the channel.

• For the foundation frame you need at least 15-20 meters of reinforcement with a cross-section of 12-16 mm.

The thickness and dimensions of each part of the drawing directly depend on the material that will be used to cover the sash.

If the cladding is made with profiled sheets or polycarbonate, the components listed above are sufficient.

If you plan to cover it with steel sheets or forging, then more durable elements will be needed. After preparing the drawing and calculating the exact dimensions of all its components, you can proceed to purchasing materials and manufacturing the gate.

Materials

To make a simple gate measuring 4x2 meters with corrugated sheet lining, you need to purchase the following materials:

• rectangular profile 60x40 mm for the power frame and 20x20 or 30x20 mm for the frame;
• guide beam 60x70 mm;
• corrugated sheeting 8-10 sq. m;

• rivets or self-tapping screws for fastening the casing in an amount of about 200 pieces;
• channel 40x200 cm;
• reinforcing bars 15 meters.

The forged elements themselves constitute the internal frame of the gate and are attached to the load-bearing frame by welding. Such gates do not require additional cladding, except as a design solution.

Accessories can be purchased separately or as a special ready-made kit. The following manufacturers of fittings for sliding gates have proven themselves:

• Italian - Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello;
• Russian - Roltek and Doorhan;
• Belosussky Alutech.

Independent production of roller components is impractical, as it requires special skills and tools. To install a cantilever-type gate, you will need the following fittings:

1. Roller bearings – 2 pcs. They are also called cantilever blocks or carriages. It is recommended to use designs with bearings.
2. Upper catcher – 1 pc. It is better to use catchers with guide wheels. It is possible to make homemade catchers.
3. Lower catcher – 1 pc.
4. Upper clamp – 1-2 pcs.
5. End roller – 1 pc.
6. Plugs for the supporting beam – 2 pcs.

The wheels in the support and end rollers can be either metal or plastic. At the same time, metal parts are more durable, but make noise when the door leaf moves. Plastic will last a little less, and with proper use it will last just as long, but such gates will move quietly.

To attach the catchers and the upper clamp, metal posts made of a rectangular profile 60x40 mm are needed. They are installed on a foundation reinforced with reinforcement to a depth greater than the freezing of the soil.

If fastening is carried out on brick or reinforced concrete supports, then their size must be at least 20x20 cm.

On the pillars anchor bolts metal embedded parts are attached to which the upper clamp and a counter post made of a profile pipe with a cross-section of 30x20 mm will be welded. Instead of anchors, you can remove reinforcing bars from the pillars and attach mortgages to them.

Attachment of photocells to the entrance is carried out on rectangular or round pipes with a diameter of at least 30 mm. The height of the pipes should not exceed 1 meter. Their installation must also be done on the foundation, but without reinforcement with reinforcement. Exit photocells are installed on support poles.

Manufacturing

To make your own sliding gates The following tools are needed:

• inverter welding machine and electrodes;
• rivet or screwdriver;
• grinder with replaceable discs for cutting and grinding;

• concrete mixer, shovel or rod for pouring concrete;
• marker, tape measure, hammer, pliers, drill, construction or laser level;
• spray gun or air compressor for applying primer and paint. You can use brushes and rollers, but then the layer will be thicker and more uneven;
• eye, respiratory and hand protection.

You will also need an anti-corrosion primer, acetone or other solvent, alkyd or acrylic paint for outdoor work.

The step-by-step instructions for making and installing rolling gates provide information on how to do all the work yourself:

At the initial stage, you should make a foundation for the mortgage and, if necessary, for support pillars. A hole is marked and dug under the mortgage to the depth of soil freezing. Depending on the region, it can be from 1 to 2 m. The length of the foundation is equal to ½ of the width of the opening, in this case – 2 meters. The width of the pit is 40-50 cm. Depending on the depth of the pit, it is necessary to fill in crushed stone and sand in layers of 10-30 cm and carefully compact each layer.

The reinforcement frame is made by welding rods together, and then a channel is welded to the finished frame. The resulting structure is installed in the hole exactly along the ground line close to the fence post. Horizontalness must be checked with a laser or building level. If you plan to install automatic gates, before pouring the foundation, you must conduct wiring to the channel in a plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of at least 2.5 cm.

Concrete for the foundation is mixed in a concrete mixer in the following ratio:

• 1 part cement M400 or M500;
• 3 parts sand;
• 3 parts crushed stone.

For a pit 1 meter high, 2 meters long and 50 cm wide, you will need about 1 cubic meter. m of concrete. During the pouring process, the solution must be periodically pierced with a shovel or a rod of reinforcement to release excess air.

For the first 3-7 days, the poured foundation must be watered to prevent the formation of cracks and chips.

Under the foundation for the support post you need a hole measuring 50x50 cm. It is better to install the support post on the inside of the site so as not to reduce the gate opening. The preparation of the pit, mortar and reinforcement frame is carried out following the example of a mortgage. The return post and channel can also be installed on screw piles, but such a design, depending on the soil, may be less durable.

The next stage is the manufacture of the gate leaf. Metallic profile for the frame and frame are cut with a grinder according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing. On a special stand, which must be larger than the finished structure, the components of the power frame are laid out and, if necessary, adjusted to size.

The joints must first be secured by spot welding, and then all seams must be welded completely. To eliminate the possibility of water or snow getting into the canvas structure, you need to weld all the holes.

The seams are carefully sanded using a grinder or sandpaper to an acceptable appearance. The inside of the frame, which will be in contact with the frame, must be degreased with a solvent and coated with two layers of anti-corrosion primer.

The second primer coat can be applied only after the first one has completely dried. Coating the inside of the frame with a primer at this stage is done because after connecting to the frame, processing the closed surface will no longer be possible.

After the power frame is ready, it is necessary to weld the frame in the same way. Processing the seams and priming the surface is carried out according to the same principle, but the outer side of the frame is primed, which will come into contact with the load-bearing frame. After the coating has dried, the frame is installed inside the frame.

The alignment of the internal frame relative to the frame depends on the method of covering the gate. If the cladding is performed only from the outside, then the frame is welded close to the outside of the frame. With double-sided cladding, the frame is installed exactly in the middle.

Welding the frame to the frame is done very carefully so that the structure does not become distorted due to overheating of the metal.

First, the fastening is done with small welding points at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Then the joints are welded in small sections of 1-2 cm on different sides, and only the remaining sections of 5-10 cm can be welded immediately. Work must be performed on both sides of the canvas. The supporting beam is welded to the frame using the same principle.

At the final stage of fabrication, the welds are polished, the surface is degreased with a solvent, coated with a primer and painted. It is better to perform priming and painting in two or three layers, with the second layer applied only after the first has completely dried. Coatings must be applied evenly to avoid drips and unevenness. For this it is better to use a special compressor.

The corrugated sheet is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or with rivets using a special rivet. The first fastenings are made at the corners of the canvas, and then along the entire perimeter at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. If one profiled sheet is not enough, then each subsequent sheet is installed overlapping the previous one.

Installation

Installation of the door leaf occurs only after the foundation has completely hardened, which is possible 10-28 days after pouring. The drying speed depends on the composition of the solution, temperature and humidity of the environment.

First, using a laser level or a string, the trajectory of the gate leaf is outlined. Roller supports are installed on the channel at the maximum distance from each other.

Sliding gates are placed with a guide rail on the carriages so that the rollers are inside the supporting beam. During installation, you need to constantly support the structure of the structure vertically; for this you will need the help of one or two people.

It is important to correctly adjust the position of the cantilever blocks and check the horizontalness of the lower beam with a building level.

The block, which is closer to the opening, is positioned so that when the gate is open, the distance from the span to the roller is 15-20 cm. The second carriage with the gate closed should be at a distance of 5-10 cm from the end of the rail. In this position, the roller mechanisms are lightly welded to the channel, the entire structure is once again checked for ease of movement of the web on the rollers.

If all mechanisms work correctly, the canvas must be removed from the console blocks, the carriages from the lower platforms, and the platforms themselves must be completely welded to the channel.

You should not attach the platforms to the channel using the bolts that come with the kit. If it turns out that even a small error occurred during installation, it will no longer be possible to unscrew such bolts. To reinstall, you will have to cut them off and do all the steps again.

The roller trolleys are again secured to the platforms, the canvas is put on them and, with the gate closed, final adjustments are made using a wrench. The upper fixing roller is attached by welding to a metal post or embedded in a brick pillar, which is located above the foundation.

The return post must be installed on the foundation or secured by welding to mortgages on a brick pillar. The length of the post should be equal to the height of the gate leaf or slightly higher. The lower and upper catchers are welded to the counter post. The lower one is attached by 5 mm. above the entry level of the end roller: this reduces the load on the supporting console blocks when the gate is closed. The upper catcher must be mounted 5 cm below the top of the gate leaf.

The end roller must be installed inside the guide beam and secured with bolts. For greater strength, the roller can be welded into the guide rail. And finally, plugs are attached to the supporting beam on both sides, which are necessary to prevent snow and dirt from getting into the rail, which would interfere with the operation of the structure. Rubber plugs are simply inserted into the rail, and metal ones are attached by welding.

Decor

Decorating sliding gates is possible in a variety of ways. The gate trim itself, which can be made from a variety of materials, can serve as decoration.

Additional cladding with metal strips makes the gate more formal and massive in appearance.

Quite often, forged elements are attached to wooden and metal gates.

Installing a lock on automatic gates is usually not required, since they are driven using a remote control or button. It is simply impossible to open such gates with your hands. But for mechanical structures, locking elements and locks are required. Most often, simple constipations are installed, which can hardly be called decorative.

Beautiful examples

Vertical sheathing on the fence looks laconic and strict.

It is possible to combine corrugated sheeting with sheathing.

Combined cladding with forging elements will always look expensive and presentable.

Gates made of wood or sandwich panels are also often decorated with forged products.

Forged structures without additional cladding are often used.

Forged gates with additional transparent polycarbonate lining look very good.

For cladding, you can use tempered glass, which can be left transparent, darkened by tinting, or tried in combination with metal.

To learn how to properly make sliding gates with your own hands, watch the following video.

An integral part of the fencing structure of a summer cottage is the gate. Today there are many varieties of them. Let's look at the process of making and installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

• This gate design does not interfere with the exit/entry of a vehicle in a small area. Cantilever doors can significantly save space.
• The presence of the lower fastening of the console system allows you to equip the gate in any climatic conditions.
• The finishing can be made of different materials, for example, vertical lathing, corrugated board, forging and more.
• Possibility of choosing a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or corrugated sheet.
• Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and gate closing/opening mechanism provides for a long operational period.
• It is possible to choose different automation for gates.

Flaws:

• Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the installation of sliding gates requires more financial costs, approximately 10–20%.
• To attach the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
• You will need to allocate sufficient space along the fence.

The gate design is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

1. Hanging. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time reliable design has gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the passage, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when tall vehicles enter.
2. Console. This type of gate is ideal for the climatic conditions of Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to be damaged by snow drifts, wind, dust, etc. Thus, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller carts. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
3. On screw piles. Metal piles are screwed into the ground to a depth of 1500 mm, which will support the entire structure. Their production and installation will take up to 3 days.
4. Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for cases where a dacha or country house is rarely used.
5. Automatic. Such gates are the complete opposite of mechanical ones. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. The best option for regular use.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. In this case, it must be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120–200% larger.

Gate calculation features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of sliding ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

1. Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
2. Estimation of the weight of the structure being constructed.
3. Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the market range. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then cutting sheets of corrugated board for the purpose of adding it is very difficult. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding the final weight of the structure, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to take into account the wind load. Add a small margin to the existing wind force prevailing in your area.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do this yourself. It is worth immediately noting that all of the above calculations apply to cantilever-type sliding gates. They are more complex than all other types, so let’s look at them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

• opening width;
• technological opening/closing intervals;
• minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving, the doors must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Thanks to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the sash to move? In this case, it is necessary to understand that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the width of the sash. The ideal figure is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed to roll back the gate along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

• Corrugated sheeting ~ equal to 4 kg/m2.
• Steel, thickness 2 mm ~ 17 kg/m 2.

A gate with a 4x2 m frame will weigh on average 200 kg. Having such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9x5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will significantly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its service life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a support rail. Modern products such a plan allows you to choose necessary design. As a basis, we will take the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m2 and is evenly distributed over the support zones of the canvas.

How can you make sure that the structure you have made will work without interruption even in strong winds? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is not much ~ 150–180 kg/m for each supporting element.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life in any way. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the gate rail, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the support pillars. In this case, it is necessary to start from 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, there are no special secrets here. But despite this, you should not lose sight of this component, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of the total cost of the project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

• Guide beam. Takes on all their weight.
• Trolley or roller support. You need 2 of them.
• Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
• Upper/lower catcher. When the gate is closed, the lower one takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
• Bracket. It is important for keeping the sash from swinging sideways.
• Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the supporting console.

Sash selection

The gate leaves are also subject to high demands. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that in the event of a strong gust of wind or ice, the sash functions well. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffening ribs so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The availability of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

• Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
• Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
• Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a supporting rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right components for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash plus 40%. Selection is also carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the door is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a 6 m beam.

If the opening width significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m and a cross-section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg into account.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas should be carried out from the inside of the site, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

1. Electrical wiring.
2. Installation of a response pole.
3. Automation installation.

Stages of foundation construction:

• First, marking is carried out. Measure 500 mm from the fence (the width of the foundation). You also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
• It is often possible to use fence support posts. If this is not possible, then a counter post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the area, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
• If the gate will operate automatically, then be sure to organize a place for laying the wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe/box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
• Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the soil freezing level (different in each region).
• To make the embedded element, you can use channel 16. Its length should correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
• Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with the reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly level and exactly parallel to the gate opening line.

The embedded element must be flush with the road surface. The minimum gap allowed between the bottom edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using an adjustment platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fastenings.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then install the embedded element deeply.

As for concrete work, it is carried out when the installation of the embedded element is completely completed. The concrete level should be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin installing the gate. To do this, you first need to make markings. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the counter post 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the gate's movement path. The height of the cord tension is 200 mm. Further work looks like this:

• Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller support. From the edge of the opening, step back 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the outermost first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the return post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
• Now insert the roller supports into the supporting profile, placing them in the center.

Afterwards it is necessary to weld the second trolley of the adjustment platform. Then roll the gate leaf into the opening and make final position adjustments. Make small tack welds by welding the second adjustment pad, the resulting action looks like this:

• Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
• Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
• Weld the platforms to the embedded element.
• Attach roller carts to them.
• Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
• Close the gate and use a wrench to adjust its position.

You make holes inside the supporting profile, this is necessary in order to install the cart correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the distortions of the trolley.

• Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the supporting profile and the bolts should be tightened thoroughly. You also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to act as an end stop in the case of manual gate operation. But in this case, fastening by welding will be much better than a bolt.
• As for the support profile plug, it is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. It is necessary to prevent snow from rolling under the rollers.
• Now the upper clamp is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the roller fasteners and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the canvas. Taking this into account, press the bracket against the post and secure it.

At the next stage of work, the gate frame is covered. For this you can use profiled metal sheets. They must be cut to the size of the sash. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the casing is completed, the lower/upper catcher can be installed. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carts when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Place the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller. As for installing the upper catcher, this process occurs in the same way.

Finally, all that remains is to install the automation. To do this, attach the rack, which means a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the mounting kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

• For an opening of 4 m, a drive of 500–600 kg is used.
• For an opening of 4–6 m, a drive is used – 600–1300 kg
• For cases with intensive gate opening, a drive of 1200–1800 kg is used.

Coloring

All metal elements of the gate must be painted. Pre-degrease the surface. To do this, clean the surface and sand it with a sanding disc on a grinder. Wipe some areas, such as protected areas, with acetone. Now you can start priming. It is applied evenly. Moreover, the primer must be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work, the paint will lie evenly. As a result, the entire gate structure will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have the following tool:

• Inverter welding material. Such a unit will not damage the metal.
• Bulgarian.
• Air compressor for painting.
• Pliers.
• Drill.
• Roulette.
• Level.
• Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

• Insufficient foundation preparation.
• Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
• Incorrect weight of the gate for the load-bearing beam.
• If you hear a creaking sound, this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
• Do not allow paint to drip.
• Be sure to take into account the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the pillars may skew in one direction.

Video: making gates

Photo: options for finished sliding gates

Scheme

In the diagrams you can find many structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates:

All you need for this is the appropriate tools and the ability to understand drawings and diagrams. With some diligence, the finished result will look and function no worse than a factory-made design. Such gates can be successfully manufactured and installed at the dacha, in country house, in a parking lot, etc.

As you already understand, we are talking about cantilever-type gates, the panel of which moves on roller supports. There is another design option - rail, which is considered obsolete today, and we will not consider it. And for those who are interested in a cantilever (retractable) design, we offer detailed instructions for its installation, including a set of works on preparing the gate opening, laying out the foundation and installation sequence.

DIY sliding gates, concrete base or piles

Video on how to make sliding gates with your own hands

Sliding gate device

• The guide is integral with the gate leaf and takes the entire load from its weight;
• Roller support (trolley) – 2 pieces, the gates in the console part are installed on them;
• The end roller is removable - serves as a support for the edge of the gate when closed;
• Lower catcher – takes the load from the support roller when the gate is closed;
• Upper catcher – reduces the windage of the gate when closed;
• Bracket (upper clamp with rollers) – holds the sash against lateral swings;
• Stand – supports are mounted on it to ensure movement of the gate leaf.

The process of manufacturing and installing sliding gates with your own hands involves constructing a foundation. A guide beam is welded to the lower edge of the sash, the load from which is taken by two roller supports installed on the foundation. It is thanks to them that the gate leaf moves in the desired direction.

The support rollers are located inside the supporting console. Gates of this design can be automatic (operated by an electric drive) or opened manually. They are very convenient to use at any time of the year.

Gate leaf requirements

In order for the structure to remain stable and rigid during strong winds, its sash must be sufficiently rigid to withstand wind loads.

Also, the canvas should not sag under its own weight.

It is better to purchase high-quality metal for the gate leaf, without signs of corrosion, and in satisfactory condition. The total required amount of metal and reinforcement can be calculated from the drawings.

Gate drawings

From different manufacturers you can find many different models of sliding gates. It is not difficult to find their drawings, if desired, including on the Internet. We offer you the best, in our opinion, option from a technical and financial point of view.

The gate leaf is made of a metal pipe. The frame will require a profile pipe 60x40x2 mm; for lathing – 20x20x1.5 mm. We suggest using a drawing with which you can make a frame for sliding gates with an opening width of 4 m.

After the frame is ready, a guide beam should be welded to it, which can be purchased ready-made from our company, which sells components for do-it-yourself sliding gates. After this, the frame is primed and painted in the desired color with metal paint.

A- opening width; B- guide length (opening width + 40%); Pipe - 60x40 mm.(main frame); Pipe - 20x20 mm.(lathing);

Gate painting

The first step is to prepare surfaces for painting and degrease them. For this purpose, you need to clean the surfaces with sandpaper or treat them with a grinder and a grinding disc. Cleaned areas should be wiped with acetone. You can start priming.

The primer must be applied evenly to the surface, avoiding streaks and drops whenever possible. After the primer layer has completely dried, the paint layer is applied. Such a thorough approach will ensure that the paint will lie smoothly and the structure itself will not be subject to corrosion.

The second paint layer is applied after the first has completely dried. If the result is not very aesthetic, you can paint it a third time. The time for complete drying may vary depending on the time of year and range from several hours to 2-5 days. Once painting is complete, you can proceed to further steps.

Selection of components

The selection criteria in this case are the width of the opening, the height of the gate leaf, their total weight. The main element of the gate, on which its reliability and performance depends, is the guide.

The key to efficiency when installing sliding gates with your own hands is the correct selection of components, which are present in our catalog in the form of ready-made kits:

• Russian – Roltek and Doorhan
• Italian – Came
• Belarusian – Alutech

The selection of components should be carried out taking into account the following requirements: The total length of the gate leaf is calculated using the formula “opening width + 40%”. The components are selected according to the length of the guide beam and the permissible load.

Calculation example

For example, the width of the opening is 3.8 m. Therefore, the length of the gate leaf will be equal to 3.8 m + 40%, i.e. 5.32 m. In this case, you can buy a standard set with a 6 m guide. Usually, when the opening width does not exceed 4 m, ready-made sets of components are purchased, designed for a load of up to 500 kg. The guide beam in them has a cross-section of 71x65 mm and a wall thickness of 3.5 mm.

If the opening width exceeds 5 m, a set of components designed for more severe loads exceeding 600 kg is required. In such cases, before purchasing a ready-made set, it makes sense to consult with the company’s specialists for the optimal choice.

Installation of sliding gates

Having a certain understanding of the design of gates and the features of their installation, you can carry out independent installation. The movement of the canvas occurs from the inside of the site, along the fence (fence). Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the place where the sash will roll back so that there are no obstacles in its path.

We suggest you consider the option of rolling the canvas to the right. The distance required to roll back the gate leaf is equal to the width of the opening plus the size of the cantilever part, which, in turn, is about half the width of the opening. If this requirement is met, the process of opening and closing the gate will not cause problems. The cantilever part itself does not close the opening, but acts as a counterweight.

Sequence of work

• Foundation construction: pit development, soil excavation, installation of a foundation element, concreting;
• Cabling arrangement (if it is planned to install automatic gates);
• Installation of gates and return posts;
• Automation installation, gate testing.

Construction of a concrete foundation

1st stage

In order to mark the hole for the foundation, you need to set aside a distance equal to ½ the width of the passage in the direction the gate rolls away, along the fence of the site, starting from the edge of the gate opening. This will be the location for our concrete base (length). Step back approximately half a meter from the fence towards the site - this will be its width. Thus, we will have the perimeter of the future foundation.

In some cases, fence posts can be used as support posts for sliding gates. If this is not possible, a counter post must be provided. The hole for it is located on the opposite side of the opening, strictly opposite the hole for the foundation. This is done taking into account that the return post adjoins the fence from the inside and does not reduce the width of the opening.

If you plan to make automatic sliding gates with your own hands, it is necessary to provide conditions for laying the electrical cable under the driveway. You will need a plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of at least 25 mm.

2nd stage

Excavation is usually carried out to a depth of at least 2 m, i.e. exceeding the freezing depth. As for the Moscow region, where the freezing depth is less, it is enough to remove the soil from the hole under the foundation at a depth of 1.7-1.8 m.

3rd stage

In order to make an embedded element, you will need a section of channel 16, along the length of the hole for the concrete foundation. The reinforcing grid and ties can be made from reinforcement d 12. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, sections of reinforcement are welded to the channel, then transverse ties (see image).

4th stage

The finished embedded element is placed in the hole with the reinforcement down, so as to ensure a tight fit of the side surface of the channel to the fence post. You should use a level to make sure that the body of the channel is fixed in a strictly horizontal position, parallel to the gate opening line.

Important point

The height of the top of the embedded element in relation to the plane of the road surface. If they are located at the same level, then the minimum gap between the road and the bottom edge of the gate will be about 100 mm. Using the adjustment pads, you can slightly increase this gap. But it is not possible to reduce it without compromising the manufacturability of the fastening.

If the standard gap size of 100 mm is not suitable for some reason, a deeper installation of the embedded element is required.

When it is planned to install fixed sliding gates with an opening width of more than 4.5 m, two support pillars will be needed in order to ensure stable operation of the gate and its ability to withstand windage during opening and closing. Also, in some cases, existing fence posts cannot be used as supports for sliding gates.

In such cases, you will need to prepare one or two support pillars, the size of which is calculated as the height from the foundation to the top point of the gate plus 50 mm. Ready-made designs are installed in the pit and connected in the lower part with the embedded element (see figure).

5th stage

Concreting for DIY sliding gates performed after the final installation of the embedded element. The pit is filled with concrete mortar so that the level of concrete is higher than the surface of the embedded element. The hardening time is at least six days.

1st stage

Marking the line of movement of the sash is carried out as follows. A cord is pulled along the line of the gate opening, 2-3 cm short of the return post. This will be the trajectory of the sash movement. The cord should be pulled at a height of 15-20 cm.

2nd stage

The figure shows how to fix the adjustment pads on the trolley platform.

3rd stage

Now it is necessary to determine the extreme positions of the first and second roller bearings. Step back 150 mm from the edge of the opening along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the extreme position of the first trolley. Draw the tangent of the second trolley as follows: measure the length of the gate together with the console part and set aside this length, minus 100 mm, from the edge of the counter post along the plane of the embedded element. We obtain the extreme position of the second cart.

4th stage

The gate is assembled as follows. Insert the roller supports one by one into the supporting profile, placing them in the center. Bring the gate to a vertical position, move both supports to their tangents, and install the gate close to the cord.

5th stage

Actually, we are installing it. The adjustment pads of the second trolley must be welded, after which the sash must be completely rolled out into the opening and its position must be finally adjusted. After this, weld the adjustment pads of the second cart.

• Remove the canvas from the roller carts;
• Remove the trolleys themselves from the adjustment platforms;
• Weld the platforms to the embedded element;
• Attach roller carts to them;
• Push the sliding gate leaf onto the roller trolleys;
• Close the gate;
• Use a wrench to make final adjustments to the gate position.

6th stage

To ensure that the roller carriages are installed correctly inside the supporting profile, you need to perform the following steps. Loosen the top nuts securing the trolleys to the platforms and roll the gate back and forth several times, from one extreme position to the other. After making sure that the gate moves freely, you should tighten the nuts and make sure that the quality of the gate movement remains at the proper level.

If you find that the web is moving with difficulty, it is necessary to slightly loosen the fasteners and correct the distortions of the roller carts, especially in the plane perpendicular to the movement of the web.

7th stage

At this stage you need to install the end roller. We insert it inside the supporting profile and tighten the fastening bolts. We weld the end roller cover to the profile so that the roller reliably plays the role of an end stop during manual movement of the door leaf. The welding point in this case will be a more reliable fastening than a bolted connection.

The support profile plug is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. This element is needed to prevent snow from getting inside the supporting profile in winter. Otherwise, the snow will be rolled away by the rollers of the trolley, and this may lead to jamming of the gate. When installing DIY sliding gates this point must be taken into account.

8th stage

Now you need to install the upper clamp with rollers. To do this, loosen the fasteners of the rollers and install the bracket above the gate leaf so that its side with the holes is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the gate leaf.

Press the bracket against the post and secure it. Bring the gate to a vertical position, aligning it with a level, and secure it with the rollers of the upper lock.

9th stage

If you plan to sheathe the sliding gate leaf, you can use, for example, a profiled sheet for these purposes, having previously ordered it cut to the required dimensions. Installation of the profiled sheet should be carried out from the front edge of the door leaf. Attaching it to the gate frame can be done in two ways: using self-tapping screws or by riveting, however, the second method is more reliable.

The second sheet is mounted overlapping with the first (overlaid on one wave and secured). Thus, it is necessary to install the required number of profiled sheets until the door leaf is completely covered. The last sheet will most likely have to be trimmed further in order for it to fit within the perimeter.

10th stage

After the gate trim is completed, you can begin installing the catchers - upper and lower. Since the role of the lower catcher is to reduce the load on the roller carts when the gate is closed, it is installed when the gate is fully loaded. With the gate completely closed, you need to bring the lower catcher under the end roller so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller.

The upper catcher is installed in such a way that when the gate is closed, its upper brackets touch the protective corners of the front edge of the gate leaf.

Stage 11

On DIY sliding gates you can install automation. In this case, the movement of the sash will be carried out using an electric drive. For this purpose, a toothed rack is attached to the door leaf - a universal part that is compatible with electric drives for gates of all manufacturers. Such a rail is usually included in the kit of fasteners.

The gate automation kit usually comes with installation instructions, which you should follow.

Automation selection

Automation for sliding gates – more freedom, more comfort!

Don't want to manually open and close your sliding gate?

A remote controlled drive will allow you to do this without leaving the car.

Tools and equipment

To manufacture and install sliding gates you will need:

• Welding machine, preferably an inverter one. It does not damage the metal and ensures optimal weld quality.
• Grinder with discs of various types. With its help you can cut metal blanks for gates.
• An air compressor that will ensure uniform painting of the gate. If it is not available, you can paint the gate with a regular roller.
• Pliers, hammer, drill, tape measure, level, riveter.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of sliding gates, or would like to find out the cost of installation services, please contact us by phone.

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Sliding gates are a compact and ergonomic solution for a country house. As a rule, their production and installation are carried out by professionals who have workshops and equipment at their disposal. In this article we will tell you how to make and install sliding gates yourself.

Sliding gates are a sliding structure that moves along the fence, completely blocking or clearing the entrance to the territory. There are two types of such gates:

1. Monoscreen - consists of one sash. The entire structure rests on an additional foundation through a steel embedded part. Does not require re-stretching along the tops of the pillars and moves to one side. Suitable for web heights up to 2 meters. Option for private construction, open parking lots, courtyards.
2. Double synchronous design - consists of two identical canvases that move simultaneously in different directions. Relies on two additional foundations. Requires the installation of an upper beam along which the blades move on rollers. Withstands heavy fabrics. Suitable for heights greater than 2 meters. Option for high hangars, strategic and industrial facilities and cargo parking.

The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require space inside or outside the site when opening.

Preparatory work

Manufacturing gates is not a cheap job and can account for up to 60% of the final cost. Therefore, consider the opportunity to make them yourself.

To make a sliding gate leaf you will need metalworking tools, clamps, a welding machine and the appropriate skills. It is worth considering that the product must be welded without distortions or tension, so you need to choose a flat area and prepare a trestle or a prefabricated frame workbench of a suitable size (the dimensions of the future canvas plus 1 meter on each side).

• the pillars must be static (not dangle), supporting elements will be attached to them;
• the surface under the moving part of the gate must be horizontal, without slope;
• “ground clearance” is at least 50 mm;
• the length of the entire movable curtain will be 50% greater than the width of the opening.

Attention! The top edge of the canvas should be at least 20 cm below the top of the posts.

The basis for sliding gates is a set of fittings. This is a set of parts necessary for the normal functioning of the finished product. Such kits are produced as standard, all elements are carefully adjusted and are presented in three versions:

1. Small kit. Opening width up to 4 m, weight up to 400 kg.
2. Average set. Opening width up to 6 m, weight up to 600 kg.
3. Great set. The opening width is more than 6 m, weight is more than 600 kg.

Attention! Be sure to take this data into account when choosing how to fill the canvas frame.

The kit includes the following parts:

• main guide (6 m)
• support bar with rollers
• end roller
• upper and lower catchers
• roller carriage trolleys
• plastic guide plugs

Manufacturing of sliding gates

Let's consider the assembly of the frame and the consumption of material using the example of a canvas for an opening 4 meters wide, a canvas height from the ground of 2 meters (ground clearance 75 mm) and light filling from a profile (as the most common option). A distinctive feature of the sliding design is the presence of a counterweight. It is a part of the canvas that does not cover the opening. As a rule, its length is taken as 50% of the opening width.

To make the frame you will need rectangular pipes of the following sizes:

• 60x30 - 16 linear. m (3x6) - to create a frame. 1 piece - 6 m, 1 piece - 4 m, 2 pieces - 1.85 m, 1 piece - 2.7 m;
• 40x20 - 20 linear m (4x6) - to create the inner part of the frame. 3 pcs 4 m each, 4 pcs 2 m each;
• 6 m guide rail from a small or medium set.

A 60x30 pipe is welded onto the tire along its entire length, with a distance of 30 mm from the visible edge (a vertical stand will be placed there). Welds 50 mm long are laid in 400 mm increments on both sides. Along the width of the gate (4 m), 60x30 pipes 1.85 m long are attached perpendicular to the bus. We cut the free ends of these pipes (if necessary) and connect them with a 60x30 pipe 4 m long.

Attention! At this point, you need to check the diagonals, set the size and eliminate distortions before welding.

1 — guide rail 6 m; 2 - pipe 60x30 5.97 m; 3.4 - vertical pipes 60x30 1.85 m; 5 - pipe 60x30 4m; 6 - slope 60x30 2.7 m

After eliminating the distortions, we mark a 60x30 pipe 2.7 m long from the free end of the tire to the upper corner of the frame (in the form of a slope). After trimming, we install it on tacks and weld all the pipe joints.

We divide the inner part of the frame into equal rectangles (6 in total), lay out the 20x40 pipes, mark them in place and cut them. These pipes will be welded in a narrow plane to the frame along its axis, so you should prepare 20 mm pads in advance. This way there will be space for the corrugated sheet up to the edge of the frame. We grab and scald the 20x40 pipes.

All welds must be cleaned (grinding disc) and polished (petal disc) using a grinder.

Like any steel structure, the frame needs to be painted. First you need to remove metal dust and scale. Then be sure to wipe with a cloth soaked in solvent. Then prime and paint.

After the paint has dried, fill the frame. We fasten the profiled sheets cut to size to the 20x40 pipe with rivets or self-tapping screws according to the markings. The filling options can be very different - blockhouse, sandwich panels, panel panels, mesh, polycarbonate, steel strip or lattice. This does not affect the design and assembly principle of the frame.

Attention! If the frame is filled with artistic forging, blockhouse or other massive elements, take into account the weight of the product when choosing a standard kit for sliding gates.

Installation of sliding gates

To install the gate, you will need a powerful embedded part (AM), usually made from channel No. 20 (width 200 mm), firmly attached to an additional foundation, which takes the entire load from the structure. It will be located on the side of the pillar, towards which it will roll back when opening. The foundation will be made in the form of two piles (1 m each) along the edges, united by a grillage, which will act as a cushion for the building. For ease of installation and reliability, it is better to weld the frame in advance and make it in the form of a whole structure with a channel. Before laying concrete, make sure that the position of the building is strictly horizontal in all directions.

1 - piles 1 m long; 2 - channel 200 mm wide and 2 m long (1/2 of the opening width)

After the concrete has hardened, along the edges of the door strictly along the axis of movement of the gate, we weld the roller carriages from the kit. We bolt the rollers onto them.

On the support pillars from the side of the gate we attach vertically 60x80 pipes (false pillars) along the height of the canvas plus 10 cm. The false pillar near the foundation is called a side pillar and can be made in the form of a frame, the opposite one is a receiving or unloading one, since it receives and holds canvas between openings. We attach a support bar with rollers to the side post at the required height. At the receiving end there are upper and lower catchers.

Attention! All welding work Before completing the adjustment, perform spot welding (“tack welding”).

We mount it tightly into the seat. The bottom carriage rollers should fit into the tire, the top tube of the 60x30 frame should fit between the support rollers. If you have free hands, the bar with supporting rollers can be installed in place - during installation of the canvas itself. Attach the end roller according to the instructions. We carry out tests, noting the nuances of the gate's operation. Then we make adjustments and final fixation of all welding units.

Automation for sliding gates

Like any other type, sliding gates provide for the use of automatic operation and remote control. However, the installation of such devices requires specific knowledge and practical experience.

It is quite possible to manufacture and install the structure itself, but it is better to turn to specialists to connect the automation. If desired, the equipment can be installed at any time, but if this is known immediately, then it is better to lay sleeves for the power cables in advance.

You can also make your choice in advance. We recommend the following automation models:

Sliding gate kits:

Firm	A country	price, rub.			Note
		Small	Average	Big
Rolling Expert	Ukraine, Kyiv)	4000	5000	6700	+600 rub. for 1 linear m of rail*
Rolling-HiTech	Ukraine, Zaporozhye)	4500	5500	7800	+730 rub. for 1 linear m of rail*
Wesler-Profile	Austria-Ukraine (Dnepropetrovsk)	4800	5900	7400
Alutech	Belarus (Vitebsk)	6300	7000	8100	+660 rub. for 1 linear m of rail*
Rolling Center	Italy	15500	27300	36500	+800 rub. for 1 linear m of rail*

* — Each standard set includes a 6 m rail. Additional payment amounts are indicated for each additional meter of length.

Estimate for the manufacture of sliding gates:

Name	Unit change	Qty	price, rub.	Cost, rub.	Note
Pipe 60x30 (1 linear m = 3 kg)	linear m	18	90	1620	New* 6 m each
Pipe 40x20	linear m	24	60	1440	New* 6 m each
Profiled sheet	m 2	8	160-270	1280-2160	Depending on thickness and finish
Channel	linear m	2	750	1500	New* according to linear m
Armature 16	linear m	20	30	600	New* 6 m each
Concrete	m 3	1	1000	1000	Approximate price of sand+cement+crushed stone
Paint, primer	kg	3	100	300	Conventional for metal
Other (discs, drills, electrodes)	-			1000	Approximately
Total for material	-			8740	Without automation cost
Job	-			6000	Without connecting automation**
Total	-			14740	Fabrication and installation of canvas

* - in the manufacture of the frame, it is allowed to use used material free of rust. Savings can be up to 60% (on specified positions).

** - the estimated cost of work on connecting the automation is 3000-5000 rubles.

Sliding gates are not a cheap pleasure. However, in the long run, they are worth every dollar invested. Successfully combining practicality and compactness, they are the arithmetic average of swing and lifting sectional structures. At the same time, due to the simplicity and manufacturability of the device, correctly installed sliding gates are less susceptible to distortions and jamming than their counterparts.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Gates with a sliding or, as it is also called, a sliding system are an integral part of the structure intended for fencing a dacha and adjacent areas.

Today, the range of such designs is extensive, but many craftsmen want to make gates of this type on their own.

This is not only due to the economic point of view, but also due to the use of creative energy. Therefore, many people ask the question, how to make sliding gates with your own hands and in a short time?

Types of sliding gates

Recoil ones are produced in different types, which have their advantages and disadvantages.

Console gates

Cantilever gate design allows you not to limit the upper dimensions of the product, and also eliminates contact with the lower rail passing near the surface of the earth.

This is one of the most difficult structures to implement. The basis of such a gate is a console or, as it is also called, a channel. These devices hold the door of the structure when opening and closing the gate.

Modern gates with this type of movement lack lower and upper guides, which provides the car with free movement into the yard. The canvas is suspended on a special beam standing on rollers that move the surface of the product.

Roller blocks and a guide beam are usually placed in the lower section of the gate. Often there are similar sliding mechanisms with reinforcement of rollers and beams in the upper or even in the middle part.

Such placement is justified when we are talking about a wall with capital properties or a canvas with increased strength that can withstand the large weight of the structure.

For home use, it is best to do the bottom movement so that you do not have to carry out additional work to strengthen the wall.

This gate last longer than others, because the sliding structure fits completely into the guide grooves, which protect the product from the weathering of the external environment.

Cantilever gates are often equipped with an electric drive. It is attached between the roller carriages. The drive has a control unit and special devices to ensure safe movement.

Positive sides such gates are obvious:

For console systems there are disadvantages, but there are not many of them:

• the design of such gates is difficult to make with your own hands;
• installing a gate requires a free area for a gap, which is one and a half times larger than the opening itself. This is not always feasible;
• the need to create a strong foundation.

Hanging gates

Overhead sliding gates are popular in warehouses, businesses and garage docks. The principle of operation of such a mechanism is almost the same as that of conventional sliding gates, with only one difference - the guide beam is attached to the top of the opening.

When choosing elements for fastening the structure, you need to purchase only high-quality products.

It is recommended to choose a material suitable for this type of gate from steel with additional galvanization and PVC coating for resistance to negative natural factors.

The gate opens along the wall, so it does not require additional space on the inside or outside. If desired, this design can be equipped with an electric drive for ease of operation.

Advantages of sliding gates on a suspended basis:

1. Suspended designs significantly save space.
2. The strength of the gate allows it to withstand wind loads.
3. There is no need to additionally clear the entrance in front of the house from snow.

Roller structures

Gates with roller mechanism are more popular for entering the yard than in a garage, because the width of the garage wall does not always allow placing a solid sash and placing the entire mechanism to the side when the structure opens.

This is an ideal option for the yard due to the space saving and ease of use of the device. When you press the button, the roller mechanism is activated so that the fence moves to the side.

If you equip the device with automatic control, you can operate it using the remote control.

The gate structure consists of a guide profile attached to the bottom of the product, a roller mechanism on a bearing basis, a frame cloth and other elements that fasten and hold the structure.

Rail gates

The principle of operation of rail gates is to slide the protective cloth along the surface of a special rail located on the surface of the ground. The movement occurs due to the roller, welded to the bottom of the product.

Of all types of gates with a sliding system rail mechanism is the simplest and most popular. It is often used at entrances to private homes.

Such a mechanism has a number of advantages:

• the sash has support, so it will never sag;
• the simplicity of the device allows it to be made by a craftsman who does not have much experience;
• the sash does not take up much space and is equal to the width of the entrance opening.

Flaws such devices:

• the operation of the sash can be disrupted by trapped debris or snow cover;
• the rail guiding the web must be cleaned regularly;
• the rail laid on top of the soil protrudes slightly, which makes it difficult for a vehicle to enter.

Sliding gates consisting of two parts

Sliding gates are sometimes made of two parts. This working principle allows you to save space in the width of the wall, since the gate is divided into two parts.

The design can also be equipped with automation and opened with a remote control. Electric drives are installed in each gate leaf.

Design and arrangement of gates with a sliding mechanism

One of the most popular gates are cantilever gates, the design of which consists of the following elements:

Making sliding gates with your own hands

Preparation for work start by checking the necessary tools:

All of the listed tools can be found in every home, with the exception of only a welding machine. You can ask your friends or neighbors for it. If funds allow, it is better to buy it; such a tool will never be superfluous.

You may be interested in how to make fence gates from corrugated sheets.

Creating a drawing and diagram

If all the necessary tools are available, you can proceed to counting building materials, which must be purchased on the construction market and metal stores.

The frame is being made by welding first pipes 60x40 millimeters, 6 meters long to the guide. Next, two vertical pipes 60x40 millimeters, 2 meters each, are attached, the first to the edge, the second at a distance of 4.4 meters from the edge of the horizontal pipe.

A horizontal pipe, 4.4 meters long, is attached to the upper ends of these pipes. The free edge of the lower horizontal pipe and the edge of the upper one are connected at an angle by a 2.56 meter pipe.

The frame canvas should be filled with vertical pipes 40x20 millimeters. Next they move on to the power frame.

The foundation for the future structure must be prepared by digging a U-shaped pit at least one and a half meters deep.

A section with an opening of four meters should be equal to six meters. Road clearance you need to draw at least seventy-five millimeters.

Power frame It is prepared from a channel (2.2 meters long and 20 centimeters wide) and reinforcement, the height of which is 1.5 meters, in mutually perpendicular directions.

This structure is concreted and the drive platform and stand are welded to it. Next, the lower rollers are attached to the stand and the upper roller to the post. The upper and lower traps are attached to the post opposite the moving gate.

The last element The circuit is automatic and rack and pinion.

Material selection

Having drawn a diagram of the proposed design, you need to carefully study the material for the frame and door leaf.

The frame is made of wood or profile pipe.

The inside of the gate is created from:

When choosing a material from forged elements or wooden components, it is important to remember that such a design requires reinforced parts of components and additional fittings.

Screw piles are often used in sliding gates, and such supports are made within three or four days. If you use a concrete base, such work is carried out in the warm and dry season.

It takes a month for the material to dry completely., and this significantly delays the installation of sliding gates.

That's why screw piles are more practical and smarter when installing the gate yourself. Such piles can be moved to different places, and the concrete will remain poured in its original location.

The structures withstand vibrations thanks to their blades, and the cement base will become loose over time and disrupt the entire propulsion system of the structure.

Foundation made using screw piles is durable, and the installed canvas lasts a long time and without failures. Piles can be installed in weak and water-saturated soil. They cut through the soil until they find reliable support underground.

Installation of screw piles

The main condition for high-quality installation of screw piles in such a structure is rigidity. This condition is due to the fact that the screw piles bear an increased load. Material should not go into the ground even under the influence of its own weight.

When installing such a structure, you should use a profile pipe with the selected parameters and pipe sheathing. The frame is pre-coated with primer.

Gate components are selected taking into account the weight and height of the product. The canvas moves sideways along the guide; it is its quality that determines how long the structure will last.

It is important to know that the gate rollback must exceed the size of the opening. This distance is considered to be the measurement indicator of the console, which is equal to the width of the opening.

For efficient movement of gates installed on screw piles, an appropriate area will be required.

The choice of site must be approached thoroughly and with the calculation that the width of the gate should be multiplied by a factor of one point five, then the ideal distance will be obtained. This is important for convenient use of the product..

Installation of piles produced in several stages:

1. Laying the foundation, which includes marking the territory and clearing holes from soil. Installation of embedded materials and, if necessary, pouring concrete.
2. If the master plans to install automatic control, he must electrical cabling.
3. Sequential installation of poles and the entire gate system.

Estimated movement of the gate system fixed with lacing, stretched along the line of the entire opening. The recommended fixation height is two hundred millimeters.

If the pit was filled with a concrete solution, it will take seven days to continue the work until the solution dries completely.

Frame preparation

Metal product for frame process anti-corrosion coating and give it time for the solution to dry on the surface.

You can make the frame yourself, but the main thing is so that the welded elements have no holes in the joints. If there are such holes, dirt and snow will get into them.

The base of the frame consists of pipes measuring 60x40 mm, as shown in the photo with the sketch above. The ribs of the structure and lintels inside can have a cross-section measuring 20x40 millimeters.

The frame is assembled in the following order:

1. Profile pipes are measured and cut according to the prepared drawing.
2. The resulting parts for creating a frame product are degreased, painted and treated with a special solvent.
3. The prepared elements are laid out on a flat surface.
4. The perimeter of the frame is assembled and clamped with a welding machine.
5. The corners of the product are checked and, if everything matches, they are finally welded together.
6. After welding, stiffeners and internal jumpers are installed on the product.
7. The lower part of the product is connected to the supporting beam.
8. The surface where the welding work was carried out is covered with an anti-corrosion coating and an additional layer of paint.

Manufacturing sliding gates with a wicket significantly complicates the entire design and installation process. Necessary take into account the location of the gate at the earliest stages of work.

Installation of corrugated sheets

To cover the gate you will need, screws 19 millimeters long and a screwdriver.

If the owner does not want to waste additional material for the counterweight triangle, this can be abandoned, because it will not be noticeable from the street side.

Automatic gates will look even better if the pillars are lined with brick. With basic knowledge about the masonry process, this is not difficult to do.

Necessary accessories

It is better to purchase the parts necessary to create a gate in specialized stores. It makes no sense to produce them yourself, because it is not justified from an economic point of view.

Before purchasing a rail mechanism, you need to calculate the required length. It is calculated based on the width of the gate and multiplying the number by 1.5.

Accessories designed for sliding gates selected based on the weight of the structure. There are parts that can withstand loads of up to four hundred kilograms, and sometimes there are models for sale for forged gates that can withstand up to eight hundred kilograms.

For gates with corrugated sheeting, parts that can withstand up to four hundred kilograms are suitable.

When choosing carriages with a roller mechanism, you need to decide what material they will be made of.

The building materials market offers a choice between metal and polymer materials. It is best to choose a polymer coating, with proper use it will last a long time and will create less noise than metal.

Fastening the strips

IN brick row make three embedded parts for the subsequent installation of the strip. A piece of reinforcement is welded to the post. A corner is attached to the edge of the reinforcement product in such a way that one part of it is held on the brick, and the other protrudes outward.

Upper and lower embedded parts installed at the level of the third bricks, and the middle one is in the middle of the product.

A pipe is welded to the protruding corners - a flashing with dimensions of 60x30 millimeters.

Guide rail

It is impossible to produce a rail for moving a structure at home, so you will have to spend money on purchasing such a part.

When choosing a material, you must first pay attention to presence of a mirror surface and correct angles. Manufacturers usually take care of their reputation and polish their products to prevent rust.

Based on the weight and size of the structure, choose a suitable rail.

Maintaining the rails is not difficult: you need to regularly check its surface for dirt and excess debris.

Roller carriages

Movement of roller carriages allows you to move the gate system along the opening. Each carriage of the system consists of eight rollers made of metal or polymer coating.

The process of manufacturing the carriage is not difficult: holes are made in the marked metal plates to accommodate the roller mechanism.

To create a carriage you can use bearings from an old car, for example, from Zhiguli.

If the metal is not strong enough, then the plates are welded. When drilling, it is best to use oil to cool the surface.

The axes and holes are measured and the surface is cut to the required length. Place washers on the axle, then wheels, and screw the resulting structure for movement. Before welding the base bearings must be tightly packed with lubricant.

The process of making homemade rollers for sliding gates is shown in the video:

Catchers and plugs

Metal plates curved in a special way are designed to catch gates and their commits after closing. With the correct selection and quality of the metal used, making such products will not be difficult.

The plugs serve as protection for the guide from snow and mud. You can purchase ready-made protective elements made of rubber or plastic material. You can simply weld the ends of the beam material with a welding machine.

Independent production of fittings is allowed, but with the condition that the master already has experience in carrying out such work.

If you lack experience, it is better to purchase additional elements in specialized stores from reliable manufacturers.

Installation of frame and gate

After completing the creation and preparation of parts and structural elements, you need to install the frame and gate.

The carriages are placed on the channel installed in the foundation, while trying to move them apart when strengthening.

The frame for sliding gates is attached to the carriages and is set taking into account level indicators. After this, the carriage platforms are lightly welded to the channel system.

After these steps, control measurements are taken and the carriage platform is finally welded.

It is important to monitor the level indicators, which will indicate the presence of distortions in the structure.

After this, the traps of the upper and lower sections are welded, and the end rollers are installed.

Important to remember that the end rollers must engage the lower catch system so that they completely unload it when the system is closed.

Automatic system in sliding gates

The automatic opening of sliding gates is carried out by a mechanism equipped with electric drive. Opening occurs using a remote control button. To assemble such a mechanism, any materials from the garage are suitable, and mounting will take no more than a day.

The signal is supplied by a roller or chain system using an asynchronous motor.

At the preliminary stage of work, you need to select the appropriate engine for the mechanism.

If you have a three-phase meter with a star winding, it is recommended to choose this device.

With such a device, you can avoid problems with system movement and increase gate efficiency.

If a three-phase meter is not available, you can use single-phase with capacitor type. It is important to know that such a device has low performance, especially when starting the system.

If neither the first nor the second option is found, you can use less expensive materials. We must not forget about the reliable connection of kinematics. The gear shaft is connected to the engine using a rigid coupling.

The gearbox can be replaced by a belt drive. This method of assembly work has difficulties connecting the tripod elements and the additional use of an automobile tensioning mechanism.

The mechanism with an independent shaft is of particular importance when using a belt mechanism. Extreme care must be taken to center the shaft, because it is on it that there are two transmissions.

Self-manufacturing of electric drives

The most basic installation method automation of the sliding gate movement process is a chain or, as it is also called, rack and pinion transmission.

It is fixed on the gear shaft bicycle chain, and on top of it another one is installed, a special one with a diameter in links similar to that present in the sprocket.

The chain is installed in a horizontal plane. Sprocket rotation in one direction or the other sets the entire sliding gate mechanism in motion.

The engine and gearbox are strengthened using bolts with special nuts. The support for them must be rigid. Elongated holes are made under the base to securely fix the motor mechanism.

The next step in installation is attaching the chain to the gate. The chain is installed at the bottom of the beam, and a casing is used as additional protection made of rubber material.

In order to finally strengthen the chain, welding is used.

Installation of automatic gates

To put it all together, you need to perform several steps:

1. Before installation, you need to select a place for installation and begin installing the rail in such a way that so that it is on the surface of the gear.
2. The drive is fixed at the desired point with a welding machine.
3. Next you need install the rack. It is welded to the pipe and pulled past the surface of the canvas.
4. All elements are checked and welded again.
5. The next stage is the installation of limit switches. They can be mechanical or magnetic.
6. The system must be connected in accordance with the instructions given by the manufacturer. Settings for additional functions are carried out using the remote control.
7. Further install lighting elements, capturing photo signals.

To install, you need to make a hole in the pipe and route the main power supplies through it.

8. Mounting a signal type lamp that transmits data about approaching objects. This element can be excluded from the installation, but for the safety of the structure it is better to use it.

How to make a simple sliding gate with your own hands, see the video below: