DIY circular saw made from a handsaw. Homemade circular saw. Selection of materials and parts

Nowadays, homemade saws are quite common. You should know that making a circular saw with your own hands is not difficult. To build such a product you only need to have basic skills in working with metal devices. All manipulations must be performed carefully. It should be noted that such a homemade tool is a useful thing.

For full cutting work, you will need a table with a circular saw, which you can make yourself.

Drawings of a stationary and hand-held circular saw can be seen in Fig. 1 and fig. 2.

It makes sense to make a saw of this type when some of these materials are available: pieces of steel angle, a non-working engine or elements from an angle grinder. If you don’t have an electric motor, you can buy one at a hardware store.

Figure 1. Layout diagram of a stationary circular saw.

A do-it-yourself circular saw can be made when a grinder is available. To complete all the work you will need to prepare the following elements:

aluminum corner;
Bulgarian;
metal pipe or rod;
nuts;
strip of metal.

You will also need to additionally make the following products with your own hands:

sliding stop;
axial handle.

How to make stops and holes?

The first step is to build a stop and prepare the necessary holes. This design is assembled from small pieces of metal corner. They will be located on two sides of the working element, which in this case will be a disk with teeth used instead of an abrasive wheel. On each side you need to make indentations of approximately 2-5 mm. Horizontal edges should be smoothed at the bottom so that they do not touch the part being cut. The corners will need to be secured with transverse ligaments at the front and back. It is recommended to use bolts and nuts as fasteners. The recess can be made by installing several washers.

Figure 2. Design of a hand-held portable circular saw.

A clamp made of a metal strip should be placed on the body of the device. The clamp tie must be placed at the bottom of the product. You will definitely need to securely fix the tin or steel strip, which folds in half. Then you need to prepare a hole for the rear fastener for a stop, due to which sliding will occur. The stop should be secured to the rear of the fixture. To do this, you need to select a strip of metal with a thickness of 1.2-1.6 mm. By moving the washers, you can get identical gaps between the toothed disk and the side stops.

In the gearbox housing of the product, you will need to drill several recesses with threads for elements for fastening small sizes. First you will need to disassemble the gearbox to determine where the holes can be placed. The recesses are needed so that the axial handle can be secured. If you plan to use an ordinary side handle of an angle grinder, then even a qualified craftsman with relevant experience will not be able to make the correct cut.

Making a handle and rod for adjustment

The axial handle can be constructed from a tube or rod in the form of a horn, which is directed upward. You can also use a narrow transverse bracket. The extreme parts with which it will be attached to the gearbox do not need to be spilled. In these parts, recesses should be prepared for fastening elements. If the ends of the fasteners spill, the handle may bend from the effort during operation.

If the handle has the shape of a horn, then its far side should be splashed in a horizontal plane and a recess should be made under the axis with a margin of 2.5-3 mm. A piece of rod or pipe sticking forward should be inserted into the recesses that are located in the gearbox. The outermost part of the element must be splashed and a recess must be made in it. There should be a distance of approximately 10 cm between the rod and the bracket.

Next you need to take a piece of 3-4 mm aluminum rod. You will need to bend one part of it into a loop, spread it a little and drill a recess for the front bolt for support. By placing washers on the front of the stop, you will need to create a uniform gap width along the entire length of the fixture. If you plan to use a 6 mm rod, you will need to prepare several washers of small thickness.

A thread must be cut on the back of the rod. The element should fit into the recess on the handle. You must first put one nut on it during the assembly process and another one at the end. You will need to loosen and tighten the nuts gradually to be able to adjust the cutting depth. At this stage the tool is ready for use.

Small table saw

You should know that you can easily convert a manual circular saw into a small desktop device with your own hands. To do this, you need to build a frame from a 16-22 mm tube or rod and attach a lever. The lower part of the table should be curved in the direction of the cut, after which the element is attached to the table with self-tapping screws. For the stability of the structure, it is recommended to provide for the installation of slopes.

It is worth noting that such a homemade tool requires a stable table. Its swinging during work can become dangerous. You can use an ordinary kitchen table made of wooden beams and metal profiles.

A T-tube rotating lever should be placed on the cross member. The transverse part of the part is cut into several fragments. When the structure is installed, the elements should be connected with clamps. You will need to tighten it to the extreme vertical part using a clamp. hand tool which was done earlier.

This device can also be used as a cutting tool. You just need to insert an ordinary cutting circle into the grinder. However, in this case, the cut thickness will be less than 75-80 mm. If you plan to process thick wood, you will need a full-fledged homemade circular saw.

How to make a stationary saw?

To build a machine of this type, drawings will be needed. The only difference between a stationary saw and a table saw is the height of the bed.

An important part of the bed is a flat and wide base with a slot for a file. It can be built from plexiglass, chipboard or iron sheet. The thickness of the cover on which the wire is secured in such a design is determined based on the loads. The bed cover must be removable so that all machine components can be easily accessed.

The first component of the structure that you will need to make yourself is the table. It should be covered with a sheet of tin or steel. Wood rubs against wood or plastic, causing a small hole to appear. Therefore, it will not be possible to make a high-quality cut. The transverse ligaments of the table will need to be made from aluminum corner 60-70 mm.

If the bar is sliding, then the table cover must have strictly parallel sides.

The slide can be made from an aluminum angle, which will allow you to slide smoothly along the edge without losing the angle.

Care must be taken that the toothed disc does not protrude more than 1/3 of the diameter above the base of the table, otherwise the tool will be dangerous. If you need to cut a 10 cm block, then the diameter of the disc should be 35 cm or more. To drive the disk you will need an electric motor with a power of at least 1 kW.

First of all, you need to compare the power of the prepared electric motor with your personal needs. For parts 15 cm or more, making a cutting tool yourself is very difficult.

If it is not possible to make a circular saw with your own hands with a high-power electric motor, then you can use a hand-held circular saw, grinder or electric drill.

A cutting round file can be attached to any of these elements. They are small in size and can be used as an electric drive for cutting boards of small thickness. It is recommended to attach such devices to the bottom of the table cover.

A high-quality adjustable stop can be made from a piece of corner 7-8 cm, and its length should be 3.5-4 cm longer than the length of the table. Next, you need to cut the shelf on both sides so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. The back parts are curved down. In the lower shelves it will be necessary to prepare recesses for the threads of elements for fastening. After this, you should put the stop on the table and fasten it in the desired position with bolts. The stop should be set according to the template, which must first be installed between it and the working element of the device.

Particular attention must be paid to the shaft. It is best to use a ready-made part with space for installing the disk. It can be bought at any retail store building materials and tools.

Bearings must be used. You can install them yourself. Trunnions must be equipped with covers. These elements help protect the structure from sawdust.

V-belt transmission should be provided. The electric motor can be taken, for example, from an unused washing machine. Capacitors should be paper or oil. Other parts will not be able to withstand the reactive power that will circulate in the circuit.

If you plan to trim parts, then a carriage will come in handy. This element consists of guide bars that are attached to plywood.

Building a circular saw at home is not a complicated process; you just need to prepare all the necessary elements, choose the appropriate type of structure and follow these instructions.

Contents:

Circular-type machines belong to the class of specialized processing mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.

This example of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in conditions country house and dacha farming.

When assessing the possibilities of purchasing ready-made equipment, you will encounter a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.

The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular saw with your own hands, using materials and equipment that are commercially available.

Note! In order to save money, in small-sized models of machines, an autonomous circular saw, which is rigidly mounted on the bed, is most often used as a cutting tool.

Using a homemade machine, you can saw boards, plane slabs, and also make bars of the desired cross-section.

If desired, you can significantly expand the functionality of your product by providing it with the ability to process wood using an electric planer.

Design requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all the structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular saw may consist of the following functional units:

bed, which serves as the basis of the entire product;
tabletops with an industrial prototype of a hand-held circular saw installed on it;
remote control panel for turning on and off the actuator (circular saw).

Small-sized tabletop circular saw

The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden frame. For capital equipment manufactured on the basis of metal profiles (angles), its diagram has a slightly different form. Such a product must include the following elements:

a base made of steel frames and brackets on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
a table top with slots for the processing blade, installed on top of a metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
a set of special drive electrical equipment located in the lower part of the frame and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of frame is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and load-bearing structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a homemade machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.

Stationary circular saw

In addition, before preparing a sketch of the future product, the following should be taken into account: specifications equipment used, such as:

The depth of cut, which specifies the permissible thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This figure for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism, allowing you to change the position of the disk in height.

Before manufacturing a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the electric motor rotor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes with which you will most often have to deal. For simple cutting of wood pieces, this figure can be relatively low, but to obtain a perfectly smooth (“clean”) cut you will need a higher rotation speed.

Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a rotation speed not exceeding 4500 rpm. At low engine speeds, the frame can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibrations of the mechanism.

When drawing up a sketch, ergonomic requirements should also be taken into account, implying ease of control of the operation of the equipment, as well as safe handling. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, restricting access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical protection of the drive or individual elements management.

After all possible requirements for the future machine have been taken into account, you can begin to assemble it directly.

Bed based on metal profiles (corners)

It is most convenient to make the upper part of the metal frame in the form of a rectangular frame 600 by 400 mm, welded from 25 mm corners. Pipe blanks 220 mm long are welded to the four corners of this structure (recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).

The bed must ensure rigidity of the machine structure

Two longitudinal angles are fixed to the frame using bolts, used to secure the shaft in the bearing race.

The distance between the angles is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are secured to them with special clamps.

In order to give it greater stability, the lower part of the frame frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.

A closed type bearing is used to secure the working shaft.

Two jumpers made of the same material are welded across the frame, used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform intended for mounting launch equipment.

Bearings are attached to the frame using special clamps

At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).

Closer to their edge, special clamps (wings) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.

The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:

first, bearings No. 202 are taken and driven forcefully onto the working shaft;
after this, a pulley, previously machined to lathe and having an internal diameter of the stream of 50 mm;
then at the end of the shaft a thread is cut for the bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, paronite and metal washers can be placed under the bolt);
upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to installing a drive manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW (1500 rpm). A pulley with an internal groove size of approximately 80 mm is mounted on the shaft of such an engine;
at the next stage of assembling the frame, the two finished halves of the frame are connected together (in this case, pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
At the end of the work, the belt is tensioned on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position using special “wing” clamps.

Machine on a wooden frame

The simplest and affordable way making a machine bed involves using ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this design option, the executive unit is placed directly under the table (tabletop), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.

The wooden frame is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a frame with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for attaching a hand-held circular saw to it. The length of a tabletop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.

Note! The height of the structure can be adjusted if desired, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the tabletop can be increased to the required size. In this case, you will have to worry about installing additional support legs.

The most convenient material for making countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, other materials can be selected for these purposes (plexiglass or fiberglass slabs, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable, as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.

To make a machine on a wooden base, you will need the following materials:

sheet metal preparation;
standard sheet of thick plywood;
a pair of beams with a cross section of 50×50 mm;
thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
steel corner required to increase the rigidity of the guides;
a circular saw;
two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

classic screwdriver and electric drill;
a simple wood hacksaw or jigsaw;
measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
portable milling cutter for wood processing.

If you don’t have such a milling machine, you can use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine on their farm.

Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from used kitchen tables. However, such a design will not be durable, since the source material was used for a long time in a damp room. That's why it would be wiser to manufacture all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Making a countertop

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, you can process its edges using a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the tabletop is carefully processed (rubbed) with medium-grain sandpaper.

Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. To make measurements easier, the blade is simply removed from the saw, after which you can easily determine the dimensions of the seat.

For ease of marking the tabletop, the saw blade is removed

Upon completion of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of its attachment points is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are specified).

The finished plywood table top is covered with a steel sheet attached to it using self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings to the working surface, allowing the position of the wood piece to be adjusted during its processing.

Frame assembly

Both transverse and longitudinal frame beams, used as stiffening ribs, are also mounted on the lower plane of the tabletop. A total of four such strips will be required:

Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the tabletop by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).

Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to mark the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and crossbars, at which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.

When marking points, the outermost one is selected at a distance of approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the block (in this case, the step between them should be about 23-25 cm).

Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and table top). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the tabletop are pre-coated with wood glue.

After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed using clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried.

Attaching the support legs

The table legs are made from bars of a suitable cross-section (most often the same 50x50 mm blanks are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, i.e. individually.

This should take into account the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular saw when the tabletop is at hip level. Before their final installation, the shape of the legs is modified so that they taper towards the supporting part (the area of contact with the frame base must exceed the area of support on the floor).

To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used, which are pressed in such a way as to provide additional “strut” for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with their heads facing outward.

Electrical diagram

In the capital version of the circular saw design, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the electrical network according to a triangle diagram.

Wiring diagram for an asynchronous motor of a circular machine

To control the operation and ensure automatic starting of the electric motor, the circuit provides a magnetic starter built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.

To build a machine control circuit using wooden frame(an option involving the use of a hand-held circular saw) it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and securing them to one of the legs of the tabletop

You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.

A universal toolkit is a necessity in every man’s workshop if he is used to working construction work on one's own. However, it is not necessary to buy all the items at the market or special stores, following certain instructions, sometimes it is easy to even make a circular machine with your own hands.

What is the structure?

To make a circular machine you do not need to have special technical knowledge. The main thing is to free up some time and purchase ordinary lumber for manufacturing.

Before starting the process, it is necessary to calculate what load the future tool must withstand. For powerful devices, reinforced metal structure, which forms the basis of the machine. But under the condition of manual labor, this aspect should be forgotten.

In order for a homemade circular machine to be actively used in the future, you need to correctly calculate its parameters and dimensions. Depending on the type of tool, a special type of frame is selected.

The second condition before starting production is the correct calculation of power. For home use, a unit with a power of no more than 850 W is sufficient. If you plan to use the tool for active and long-term construction, then a machine with large parameters and endurance is required.

For high productivity, the machine must have a solid base made of steel or metal profile. If necessary, the structure should be concreted to the floor. Otherwise, every person exposes his health to great danger.

Manufacturing of a stationary device

If the workshop does not have one, a medium-sized device can be easily made independently, following certain rules and instructions.

Circular saw design

Purchasing a high-quality sawing machine manufactured at a factory is very expensive, and it is beyond the means of many men. A homemade version will cost tens of times less.

You must first prepare the following tools and materials:

sheet of steel 1200 by 700 mm, at least 3 mm thick;
metal corner 50 by 50 mm;
asynchronous motor 220 V;
pulley;
a shaft equipped with a pulley and a bearing;
disk;
bolts (it is better to take M10);
electric drill;
clamps.

First you need to buy an equipped shaft and fasteners that will be mounted on it. cutting disc. The easiest way to purchase material is in specialized construction stores or markets, but it is also worth asking in private workshops. Taking a steel sheet, you need to weld the frame using a frame, and temporarily attach it.

The next stage is marking the future location of the electric motor. It is necessary to weld two flat corners with the tops up into the resulting frame for future mounting of the engine and shaft. The resulting frame is welded to a steel sheet and secured with clamps. On the sheet you need to cut grooves for the disks and holes with a diameter of 10 mm to secure the motor and shaft. The grooves must be cut in accordance with the dimensions of the motor.

After this, it is necessary to cut four blanks in the form of corners to form the legs; they are welded in different corners of the designed frame.

Clean the resulting device from dirt, dust and rust.

Coat the top with special paint for metal surfaces. It is necessary to attach a V-belt, shaft and motor to the inside of the resulting table. The belt is tensioned by moving the engine along pre-prepared grooves. At the end of the work, the M10 bolts are tightened tightly to ensure safe operation of the device in the future.

Circular table made from a hand-held circular saw

Making a wooden machine

Wooden machine from a hand-held circular saw – Alternative option previous tool, the optimal solution for home use. To make it from manual circular saw, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

plywood (1 sheet), optimal thickness 8 mm;
wooden blocks 40 by 50 cm;
universal glue;
M8 bolts and self-tapping screws.

We take plywood and cut out a sheet of 100 by 60 cm, but the size varies depending on the size of the future machine.

Prepared wooden blocks are attached to one side of the sheet with glue. On the inside it is necessary to apply a tool for precise marking and future location. Don't forget about the disc slot

Using a jigsaw or other tools, cut out a groove for the disk and drill small holes for future fastening.

After we have formed the groove, check whether the disk rotates freely in the groove; to do this, just turn the disk by hand

The legs should be attached to the side of the wooden blocks using prepared bolts and nuts.

The optimal height for the device is 90 cm; the body is attached in accordance with the pre-selected markings. It is important to ensure that the bolts do not protrude on the surface and fit tightly to the structure. The product must be coated with a special wood varnish and then painted.

In order for the material to be sawed efficiently using a circular saw with your own hands and in accordance with the required size, a wooden block is installed as a guide. For fastening, use clamps or prepared bolts with nuts.

Machine for desktop use

How to make a stationary circular saw is a common request of many men. However, its craftsmen turn it into a mini model for desktop use, this helps save required amount space, but the device will not perform its job worse.

To do this, you need to use a U-shaped statin assembly using a 14 mm diameter pipe. A transverse movable lever must be attached to it. During the manufacturing process, the ends must be curved upward in the direction of the cut. They must be bolted to the table.

In order for the statin to acquire maximum stability, it is necessary to make additional supports. A lever made of pre-welded pipe is attached to the jumper.

Staticity is broken by cutting the horizontal surface into two equal parts, but upon completion of installation they must be fastened with clamps. A saw is mounted on the vertical part using a clamp. It is important to note that the through-type cut should not exceed 80 mm.

If a craftsman needs to saw materials big size and thickness, then such a circular saw will not work. In this case, you will need a larger device with additional supports to ensure the necessary stability. Making a circular saw with your own hands will not be difficult if you correctly follow the instructions and measure all actions before performing them.

Machines of this kind are made from a circular saw, but for qualified processing, specialist drawings should also be used. A master cannot get by with just a circular saw.

Such a useful thing as a working engine from an automatic washing machine It shouldn’t be lying around idle in your garage.

Any self-respecting DIYer's hands will itch at the sight of such a promising detail.

In this article we will tell you how to use such an engine to make a very good lightweight and compact circular saw, on which you can easily unroll the fiftieth board or even a 10x10 block.

Attention! Assembling a circular saw with your own hands and its further use can be dangerous! Therefore, do not take on this business if you are not confident in your skills and do not follow safety rules! This article is not a call to action. And remember, all responsibility for what you do lies only with you!

How to connect the motor?

Connecting the motor is the most important stage of work; if you cannot connect the motor from the washing machine correctly, then you will not be able to make a circular machine with your own hands. The whole difficulty is not even in the connection, but in achieving stable adjustment of the motor speed; without this, the circular saw will not work normally - the disk will tear the lumber.

The manufacturer installs a so-called tachometer or speed control sensor on the engine of a washing machine. But the problem is that the operation of this sensor is controlled by the electronic module of the washing machine; you cannot install such a module on a circular machine, so you will have to think about a device that will control the engine speed. This is described in detail in the article of the same name.

Moving parts

Having successfully connected the motor from an automatic washing machine with your own hands and checked how it picks up and slows down, you can start making our circular machine. The diagram below shows a simplified drawing of a homemade circular saw made using a washing machine engine.

The diagram can be further simplified by starting from the bearing assembly. For household circulars this is quite acceptable.

For now, we will be interested only in the moving elements of the circular, which will bear the main load, namely:

circular saw shaft;
automatic washing machine motor shaft;
drive belt;
automatic washing machine motor pulley;
circular saw shaft pulley.

The drive mechanism should operate as follows. The motor from the washing machine drives a shaft with a small pulley pressed onto it. A small pulley is fitted with a drive belt, which transmits speed to a large pulley, which is mounted on a shaft that drives the circular saw. At first glance, everything seems simple, but when you make a circular, a lot of subtle difficulties emerge that have to be resolved.

The small pulley must be sharpened with your own hands, making 3-4 transverse grooves on it, so that the belt clings to them and does not slip.
The drive belt does not have to be taken from an automatic washing machine; you can take a similar part from any other equipment, as long as the belt is strong and has serrations.
On a large pulley, you will have to weld a disc of slightly larger diameter on the edge with your own hands to form a kind of protrusion that will prevent the drive belt from slipping off during operation. On a large pulley, it is not necessary to grind the serrations; the clutch with the belt will be normal without this.
The shaft on which the circular saw will be held, as well as the nut and washer, must be reliable so that, firstly, the circular saw does not deform at high speeds, and secondly, so that the circular saw does not jump out and cause harm to the person working with the circular saw. . It is better to take a ready-made shaft, washers and a nut from a standard factory circular.

The described mechanism is designed for a three-hundredth disk. There are many skeptics who say that the motor of a washing machine will not pull such a disk, and that at some point it will stop during operation, and the saw will get stuck in the board. Our experts respond to such skeptics as follows.

Firstly, you need to be able to work with a circular saw and not push anything onto the rotating saw.
Secondly, this circular saw will be purely for household use; it is designed for short-term work with a small amount of lumber. If you want to make a circular machine for business, then purchase special components; such equipment cannot be made from scrap parts.
Thirdly, practice shows that quite a lot of craftsmen use such homemade equipment and are very satisfied. At least the reviews from them are mostly positive.

In the future, do not overload your homemade circular machine with work, and most importantly, do not let the engine run for a long time without load.

Bed and frame

Having collected the parts for the moving parts of the circular, all we have to do is make a reliable frame and stand for our circular. In principle, for the frame of a household circular saw, you can take the most common material at hand, for example, a piece of thick flat slate. Cutting a rectangle out of it and cutting a hole for a circular saw costs nothing. But we are supporters of capital structures, so we prefer to take a 3 mm thick sheet of metal for the circular frame, and a 30 mm metal corner for the frame.

The figure above clearly shows what elements the frame of a homemade circular saw consists of. In this case, it is also welded with your own hands, but not a static metal corner is used as supports, but special homemade racks. The stand is made of two metal pipes of different diameters, which are inserted into each other, so the circular frame can be adjusted in height.

Experts insist on a welded frame design for the circular saw, since vibration has a bad effect on static fastenings created with bolts. Although if you don’t have welding, as a last resort, you can make a frame from the corners, fastening them together with bolts and nuts. It is also better to weld the bed to the frame.

So, it is quite possible to make a circular machine from a washing machine engine with your own hands if you have experience in making various homemade products. Try it yourself and perhaps you will gain some experience that you can later share with our readers. Good luck!

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-made, especially made of wood (made only of metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or you can use.
Screwdriver.
Grinder (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage made of (or, as an option, you can whip up a false table), which is not too bad to be deformed or damaged. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.