A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks at home. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from the old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.
Hand held angle grinder
If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.
It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.
The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to eliminate the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.
At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.
Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine
The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame on the clamp. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.
Stationary machine
Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the bed, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, home-made circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings similar to the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, as well as mount a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.
Circular table
A table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.
saw blade
The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines, a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.
Side stop adjustable
It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft
The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with a disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings with a curved inner surface, otherwise the self-made assembly will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.
Broadcast
In our case, a V-belt drive would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen based on the engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.
Motor
Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from a washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its operation scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to all sorts of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom.
When buying a circular saw, the future master does not always imagine the amount of work that he will have to perform with this equipment. This is one side of the problem. On the other hand, the master understands that it is better for him to purchase a circular machine right away, but it is very difficult to find a comfortable table that would meet all the requirements.
The circular table allows you to make a more accurate and even cut.
Thus, the idea was born to make a table for a manual circular saw with your own hands. In this area, true craftsmen have no restrictions.
Read also:
For what kind of work is it necessary?
About do-it-yourself blade for a walk-behind tractor.
General requirements for a table for a circular saw
The table for the working saw must meet several basic requirements:
- support rigidity;
- stability;
- evenness.
In addition to these requirements, there are several necessary conditions that must be taken into account when creating a machine for a circular saw.
- Safety and reliability of fastening of a saw.
- Guard for the saw blade, which is very often left unfulfilled.
- Free access to on/off button.
An additional set of functions of devices depends on the requirements of the master himself and his qualifications. This set includes accessories that:
- help to perform an even longitudinal cut;
- the same quality cross cut.
The standard table, which can be purchased with a circular saw, is usually made of stainless steel. The sawing device itself is mounted upside down, approximately in the middle, an incision or slot is made to place the saw blade itself into it. Its width must match the width of the saw blades used. This gap should not be allowed to be too wide. In this case, chips and other working debris will often clog the device, putting it out of action.
As for the technical parameters of the saw that will be used for machine sawing, its engine power may be greater than that of a conventional hand saw. But still do not exceed 1200 W, experts consider such a risk unjustified. After all, the more powerful the saw, the more durable and reliable the table is needed.
Industrial machines are made, as already mentioned, exclusively from metal, but their support is very often filled with cement to more securely fasten the device.
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Necessary material and table assembly for a hand-held circular saw
To make a table, you can take the following materials:
- plywood 20-50 mm thick;
- plexiglass;
- fiberglass boards.
When choosing saws in a store, the buyer often pays attention to the immersion depth of this device, which means the maximum thickness of the material being processed. It must be assumed that improper use of the hand saw will take away approximately 1 cm of sawing thickness.
The parameters of the table largely depend on the surfaces to be processed.
If it is assumed that the products will be bulky, for example, longer than 2.5 m, then the table will have to be strengthened with additional legs.
The circular table has several features in its assembly. The workpiece for the table top must be described in a separate paragraph.
So, for the tabletop, legs are made from the same plywood, but of greater thickness. To secure it, clamps are made along the table or crosswise. This will allow the table to be more rigid. The stability will be affected by the correct length of the legs, the installation location.
The table can have different sizes, the master determines these parameters independently. For example:
- cover 70x80 cm;
- height 110 cm.
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Table cover: how many useful things can be on it
For the saw itself, depending on the chosen thickness of the tabletop, a saw cut is made with a depth of about 1 cm. The cut is made to fasten the desktop of the device itself around the perimeter. In order to make it, using a ruler, a simple pencil and the hand saw itself, mark the place where the device will be located.
There are several options for how to attach the saw to the table. It all depends on what the goal is. If a person wants the saw to be freely dismantled if necessary, the mount must allow this to be done, but at the same time be reliable.
To do this, around the marked perimeter of the working surface of the saw, limiting bars with grooves are installed without forming a closed frame. Thus, the hand saw is fixed. But this setting is applicable for small volumes of work and low disk speeds.
A more reliable fastening looks similar, but with this fastening, the bars are smaller: there are not 4, but 6 or 8, each is fixed near a specific section of the bed, and if necessary, the master will have to unscrew the bolts near each such bar. Some fasten the circular without wooden bars, screwing it directly to the table, making holes in the frame.
Turning over the table top, you can see a slot with a saw blade sticking out of it. During installation, the disk platform locking function is used.
You can make a slot on the sawing table for a removable riving knife, which will be attached next to the saw from the underside with a clamp.
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Guides for longitudinal and transverse cuts
The table must have guides; for their manufacture, aluminum construction U-shaped rails are used. With an open edge, they cling to the table. Subsequently, auxiliary fasteners will move along them, allowing for more accurate cuts.
The first guide that runs along the saw should be built in. The rails for the parallel guide will run along the edges of the table, perpendicular to the saw itself. The guides themselves are also made of plywood.
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How to make cross cuts?
To perform cross cuts, a bar is most often used, which looks like a small table. It is upside down, has 2 parallel bases and a slot through which a saw blade can pass. If all angles have been observed, the cut will be strictly perpendicular.
The solution for the transverse sawing direction can be another interesting option. On plywood (slightly larger than the table), bars are attached from the underside. They should be located clearly on the width of the table. From the top of the board, 2 parallel plates are attached, which are higher than the saw blade and have slots for its passage. The result is the same, but this solution is easier to implement.
In addition, the table top can be equipped with rulers on both rails.
A circular machine is the basis of any woodworking industry. This applies to both industrial workshops and small home sawmills.
Thanks to the massive frame, on such equipment it is possible to dissolve both small boards or plywood, as well as massive logs or beams.
1 Unit design
Depending on models and manufacturers (desktop Ryobi and others), circular woodworking machines may have various additional equipment to facilitate and convenient work. But, both household and industrial sawing units have standard basic equipment. This includes a table with a slot for the saw to exit, the saw itself, a riving knife, a protective cover, guides, a motor and a drive. Consider the task of each component separately.
1.1 Bed
The bed is the main part of any machine. It is on it that all the other elements of the unit are attached. The bed should be as strong as possible, stable and not allow vibrations, since they can significantly complicate the work process or even make it impossible. Therefore, Ryobi beds are usually made of cast iron or durable steel.
Stations can be:
- cast. Cast frames are used in industrial workshops. They are heavy and are installed on a flat floor made of reinforced high-strength concrete;
- welded. Household sawing machines and mini machines are equipped with a welded bed. Such a table weighs much less and allows you to move the unit if necessary.
You can make a bed on which the Ryobi desktop mini machine will be fixed from any material, including reliable wooden beams. But such a table must be fastened with the installation of a sufficient number of stiffeners to achieve maximum strength.
1.2 Work surface
The working surface is a smooth table on which the sawn material is laid. As a rule, the upper part of the work surface is made of cast iron, aluminum or smooth steel. On it are guides and rulers for measurements and ease of installation of the sawn material.
Also, part of the working surface, in the place where the saw protrudes, must be removable, which greatly facilitates the process of replacing the saw wheel. The gap through which the saw protrudes must be suitable for the thickness of the cutting tool. If the slot is larger excess space will be clogged with chains and other waste, which will make sawing work impossible.
In this case, the insert can be made independently from solid wood or plastic. The gap is best cut with a working saw. Then it will fully correspond to its size.
1.3 saw blade
The Ryobi saw blade is available in diameters from 140 to 300 mm. The larger the saw, the greater the thickness of the processed wood can be. When installing the disk, it must be taken into account that it can protrude no more than 1/3 of its diameter above the working surface.
Mini machines rarely have additional features, but a professional woodworking machine usually has mechanisms for tilting the saw. This allows you to make angled cuts up to 45 degrees.
Before proceeding with setting the angle, you need to study the instructions for a particular unit. You may need to remove or replace the work surface protector.
1.4 Protective cover
A homemade circular machine is rarely equipped with operator protection mechanisms. Therefore, the sawing unit often causes injuries.
Professional machines, especially modern ones, such as Ryobi, have a protective cover that is installed directly above the saw and protects the operator's hands from contact with the saw blade. Besides, the protective cover performs the function of clamping the material. In the event that the saw hits a knot or other difficult area, the casing will not allow the beam to bounce.
1.5 Riving knife
The riving knife significantly extends the life of both the saw and the unit itself. In addition, it greatly simplifies the entire woodworking process.
When working with improperly dried wood, with knotty areas of material, etc. saw jamming may occur. The riving knife is installed to avoid such difficulties in work. The technical parameters of the installation are as follows:
- the knife is installed behind the saw blade, relative to its working stroke;
- the distance between the lower part of the knife and the teeth is 3 mm;
- distance from the tip of the wedging tool to the teeth - 7-9 mm;
1.6 Longitudinal stop
When sawing long boards or beams along, it is very difficult to maintain a straight line without having a guide. Therefore, an emphasis for longitudinal sawing is attached to the working surface.
The width of the cutting board is adjusted using the distance from the stop to the saw.
The stop should not move or bend. Therefore, it must be made of dense material and secured in at least two places.
1.7 Drive
The drive, in this case, includes the motor and the shaft on which the saw is put on.
The circular apparatus must withstand a continuous woodworking process for 8-10 hours. And the speed should not be small (4500-6000 rpm) so that the cut is even and smooth. For this, a two-phase or three-phase motor with a power of 1200-1500 watts is suitable.
The shaft on which the saw will be fixed must have a diameter corresponding to the inner diameter of the circle and allow it to be firmly and securely fastened. The slightest backlash of the saw will lead to damage to the material being processed and the saw blade itself.
2 Circular planer
The circular apparatus, to simplify woodworking, can be equipped with a jointer.
Do not think that the circular planer performs sawing and grinding work at the same time. Their convenience lies in the fact that both equipments are located on the same frame, on the same working surface and operate from the same engine.
2.1 Types of units
Based on the scope and design features, we divide sawing machines into three subspecies:
- Desktop. The desktop machine is used in domestic conditions. It does not require a permanent stationary bed of great weight and dimensions. The mini unit weighs no more than 25 kg, so it can be installed on any workbench or similar stand. After finishing work, it can be easily removed to the garage or pantry. The Ryobi desktop mini machine allows you to cut a maximum depth of 75 mm.
- With stand. These are also small units used in the domestic sphere. They are equipped with folding legs and a folding surface for sawing long materials. Convenient for transportation. The maximum cutting depth is 85 mm.
- Stationary. Such units have a large weight and considerable dimensions. They are used in the professional field at medium and large woodworking enterprises. Allow to saw a board and a bar up to 125 mm thick.
2.2 What you need to know about circular machines?
Regardless of whether you decide to purchase a Ryobi-type unit, or make it yourself, you need to know some of the features and nuances of this equipment.
- The difference between professional and household units is not only in weight and dimensions, but also in the capabilities and safety of the equipment. Professional machines, unlike household ones, are always equipped with additional covers and protection mechanisms, various fixtures. They must have an outlet for a chip blower.
- The higher the engine power, the higher the performance of the unit. Three phase motors are more efficient than two phase motors.
- The diameter of the saw indicates the maximum depth of cut; The possible size of the processed material depends on the depth of cut.
- With engines of the same power, the speed of rotation of the disk is inversely proportional to its diameter.
- The faster the saw rotates, the smoother and cleaner the cut will be.
2.3 DIY circular machine
A do-it-yourself manual circular machine can be made from an ordinary angle grinder, or grinder.
Much to invent, in this case, do not have to. We buy a circular saw for the “grinder”, we also install a manual circular machine, we can say it’s ready. However, we note that it’s almost impossible to make an even cut while holding the grinder in your hands.
Therefore, you will have to make a small frame or workbench, make a work surface (a sheet of steel or just a chipboard is suitable for this) and fix the grinder from below so that the saw comes to the surface through the working slot. Such a manual machine will allow sawing plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or boards up to 4 mm thick.
2.4 Demonstration of the Bosch GTS 10 XC circular saw (video)
Many summer residents and owners of private houses were faced with the need to process and saw boards, plywood and other lumber. For such work, you will need a circular, which is not difficult to perform from improvised means. Such home-made equipment will not be inferior to the purchased one in functionality and quality of performance, allowing you to save several tens of thousands of rubles on the purchase of ready-made units.
Equipment Description
DIY circular saws can be stationary or portable. The design of the simplest circular will include a metal or wooden supporting frame, inside which an electric motor, an electricity supply control unit, a table top and the working saw itself are fixed, which is mounted on the circular shaft or installed through gears and a trunnion mechanism. The saw is located in a slot in the tabletop, which makes it easy to cut lumber, performing high-quality wood processing.
The table-top can be made of lumber or use ready-made metal blanks for this. Flat easel tables are made of wood, from above, such a countertop will need to be covered with a durable metal sheet. Otherwise, without metal protection, the tree will begin to wear out quickly, and the equipment will last for several years during active operation, after which complex and expensive repairs will be required.
First of all, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you need to cut boards or firewood for the winter, then the simplest installation from a sturdy table with a slot for the disk will suffice.
Some models imply the presence of an additional shaft to which knives, jointers and planers are attached. Such universal machines are equipped with powerful electric motors, which allows you to perform a wide range of woodworking jobs. When manufacturing a multifunctional machine, it is necessary to be guided by high-quality drawings that will allow you to make versatile and reliable equipment.
If you want to perform various kinds of carpentry work, then equip the coordinate table with guides. The existing limiters and guides can be fixed at different angles, which allows not only to ensure the safety of work on the machine, but also to perform high-quality wood processing, easily changing discs for saws of various diameters.
Advantages of homemade technology
Homemade circulars are very popular due to the simplicity of their manufacture, durability and reliability. Today, many summer residents use home-made units, and do not buy expensive equipment in specialized stores.
The main advantages of this technique include the following:
- Tool versatility.
- The simplicity of its manufacture.
- Potential for significant savings.
- Reliability and durability of equipment.
Available on the Internet and thematic printed publications, the schemes for the execution of stationary and mobile circulars make it possible to manufacture equipment for processing both thin workpieces and thick lumber. You can pick up the simplest options that do an excellent job of processing lining, thin lamellas and plywood.
Characteristics and power
It is from the correct choice of parameters, including indicators of revolutions and drive power, that the functionality of the use of equipment will depend. The power rating is affected by the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. It is believed that processing lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters will require an electric motor with a power of 1 kW. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn lumber, you should choose the power of the electric motor.
The transmission from the drive in a self-made circular is best done with a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety of the use of equipment. V-belt transmission when foreign objects get under the saw will slip on the pulleys, which eliminates injuries and jamming of the working disk.
Making a circular
Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think over its device and design, and ideally, select a drawing scheme, according to which all work will be carried out in the future. When planning the manufacture of the bed, it must be remembered that such a design must be stable and reliable. For production powerful saws, the base is made of reinforced welded metal structures. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the bed or weld the base from a metal corner.
The choice of the electric motor used will depend on what kind of work and what kind of wood is planned to be processed on the machine. The drive can be powered by a single-phase electrical network or powerful industrial motors are used that operate from a three-phase electrical network.
You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular from the motor from the washing machine. It won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate from a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and capable of operating at high speeds.
One of the most important components of the electric saw is the shaft on which the working saw is attached. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it on a milling cutter from round timber. The shaft is machined on a lathe, checking for perfect centering. Even the minimum runout of the shaft is not allowed, since subsequently it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. On the shaft, seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made.
The saw blade should rise above the surface of the worktop by a maximum of a third of its diameter. Otherwise, with a larger saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and working on such a machine will become simply dangerous. If it is necessary to work with a bar, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. For processing boards, you should choose small discs, the diameter of which is 250-300 millimeters. The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future the minicircular will have a significant load, low-quality discs will quickly become dull and will require replacement.
Materials and tools
Making a circular machine with your own hands will not be particularly difficult. For this work, you will need the following materials and tools:
In each case, the design of the circular will be different, so it is necessary to choose certain components, which will make it possible to produce functional and reliable equipment. When using lumber for the manufacture of the base and desktop, the wood will need to be coated with impregnations that protect the material from rotting and moisture.
Step by step assembly
You can make a stationary circular saw with your own hands from a grinder and a hand cutter without making any changes to the design of the working tool. The base is made of lumber, which greatly simplifies manufacturing, eliminating the need to use complex welding equipment. Step-by-step instruction:
This option for manufacturing a circular saw will be an excellent choice if you need a tool for cutting boards up to 3 centimeters thick. If you want to make a powerful and multifunctional device for the home, then use electric motors with a power of 5 kW or more, which allow you to process and saw boards with a thickness of 5-8 centimeters.
Making a homemade circular saw is not particularly difficult. You can use grinders or hand saws that are mounted inside the wooden base of the machine.
Some craftsmen make more complex tools that involve the use of powerful electric motors, V-belts and larger diameter saw blades. If there are any difficulties on the network, you can find thematic videos on how to make a circular with your own hands.
An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.
There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.
Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).
Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.
Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.
I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
Clings to the edges with a death grip.
The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a manual circular saw.
In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.