Installing a frame for a corner bath. How to install an acrylic bathtub: easier than it seems. Installing an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs

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Many people are interested in the question of how to install an acrylic bathtub. The process of installing any plumbing fixtures is an extremely responsible matter, since even minor deviations from the required standards can affect the final service life of the products. If everything is done correctly, the bathtub can last for many years.

First of all, for work you will, of course, need the bathtub itself and its accessories: legs, hooks for attaching to the wall, two mounting strips.

Step-by-step instructions for installing an acrylic bathtub

Let's start by attaching the mounting strips to the bottom of the bathtub with screws, as shown in the video. To do this, we turn the bathtub upside down, put slats on top of it and make appropriate markings so that we know where to drill the holes.

After this, we remove the slats and make indentations in the surface of the bathtub. You should drill shallowly, going down no more than 5 mm.

Installing an acrylic bathtub is a responsible process, so in order to avoid damage to the acrylic surface, everything must be done as carefully as possible. Next, we screw the mounting strips to the bathtub with screws, and attach the legs to the ends of the strips.

Screws and other parts should only be used from the appropriate set, which is designed for the parameters and thickness of the coating of a particular bathtub. The screws should be screwed into the thickened part of the bathtub bottom.

The next stage: installing the bath directly into place. At the appropriate height from the floor, we drill holes in the walls, hammer in dowels and attach special hooks, again, with screws.

Installation of a corner acrylic bathtub is carried out by placing it on these hooks - thus ensuring the most reliable and durable fixation.

We check the stability of the bathtub, as shown in the photo, as well as its horizontal position using a building level. If the structure has any mobility, even a small one, a final height calibration should be made by adjusting the legs.

When installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame, do not forget about installing a drain siphon. If the parts do not coincide with each other by at least a few millimeters, water leakage and, accordingly, problems with neighbors are possible in the future.

As you know, acrylic, like steel, does not retain heat well. To prevent the bathtub from cooling down so quickly, you can immerse it in a kind of “thermos”, consisting of a thin layer of foam that covers both the bottom and sides of the bathtub. Silicone can also be used to seal all the gaps between the bathtub body and the walls.

When deciding to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, both your own experience and advice from professionals help. Different bathrooms have their own nuances, and the fact that you managed to successfully install the bath the first time does not mean that the same will happen in other cases.

One of the main requirements that must be met before installation begins is the completion of all repair and finishing work in the bathroom. The walls must be plastered, the floor leveled, the tiles laid.

To final check the work performed for stability and tightness, you should fill the font with water and wait a while. If there are no leaks or other negative phenomena, the installation of an acrylic bathtub can be considered successful.

Installing a bathtub is quite hard work in the truest sense of the word. This is especially true for cast iron plumbing, which can be an almost impossible task to install alone.

For installation of even relatively light acrylic bathtubs, it is better to find an assistant, since any awkward manipulations can lead to damage to the body, coating or drain parts.

What to consider before starting work

Before you start installing a bathtub yourself, critically evaluate your own capabilities - do you have enough skills to install plumbing fixtures practically by touch? Although we note that even very modest skills acquired, for example, when installing a kitchen sink, should be enough to successfully install a bathtub.

When purchasing plumbing fixtures made of acrylic, be prepared for the fact that the work will have to be carried out with extreme care - if handled carelessly, the bathtub can become warped, resulting in the coating cracking. It will also be damaged if the working tool accidentally falls into the bowl. In addition, during installation in the body of an acrylic bathtub, you will have to drill blind holes, and given that this material is extremely easy to drill, it is quite possible to overdo it and hole the bathtub right through.

What you need to know about cast iron baths

Before purchasing a cast iron bathtub, you need to familiarize yourself with its features as carefully as possible:

It is better to rest such a bathtub on three walls at once, especially if it is installed on open decorative legs, since the latter can easily break from the lateral force applied to the bathtub.
It is advisable to attach the siphon to the drain hole in advance, but again the heavy bath will have to be moved once again, which can lead to various damages.
Cast iron bathtubs are quite expensive to purchase, but their operation is also expensive.

When installing cast iron, be careful not to damage the tiles on the floor.
To do this, they usually place bricks under the legs.

Cast iron takes quite a long time to warm up - in order to fill a bathtub with warm forty-degree water, a boiler that heats water to 60 degrees will require about 100 liters of water. For comparison, the same acrylic bathtub will require only 50 liters of water, heated in a boiler to 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that cast iron releases the received heat much faster, therefore, in terms of efficiency cast iron bath inferior to acrylic by more than two times.

Features of acrylic bathtubs

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs are quite light, which makes it possible to install them alone. When producing acrylic sanitary ware, enterprises do not experience any technological difficulties associated with giving the products any complex shape, so you can find a variety of samples on sale, but at the same time they are quite inexpensive.

The thermal conductivity of this material is quite low so that the bath does not cool down for a long time, while heating it occurs almost instantly. This is associated with significant savings in the operation of acrylic plumbing, as mentioned above.

The assembled frame should be attached to the acrylic bathtub in the bathroom,
otherwise it may not fit through a standard 60 cm doorway.

The main disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs is their relatively low strength and service life not as long as cast iron ones. However, with careful use it can last up to 15 or even 20 years. Review - read the next article.

The installation method for acrylic bathtubs also differs from cast iron ones, which is due to the characteristics of the material.

Installation of cast iron baths

A cast iron bathtub, as previously noted, is extremely heavy, and some features of its installation are associated with this circumstance:

Installation of acrylic bathtubs

The first step when installing an acrylic bathtub will be to attach guides for the legs to its bottom, which are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws.

All markings are carried out in accordance with the instructions, while the supports are installed strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub.

The places where the legs are attached usually have an increased thickness of acrylic.
If this is not the case, glue wooden blocks and screw them to them.

It is necessary to drill blind holes for self-tapping screws with a drill with a limiter approximately 3/4 of their length. After this, the legs themselves are installed, and the drain fittings are installed.

Provision should be made for a pipe extension for bypass.

The side of the bath sits on plastic hooks, which are attached to the wall with dowels.

The bathtub is installed in the desired place and adjusted in height using adjusting screws.

Note. There is no need to adjust the slope of the bathtub to drain; it is built in when the tide of the bathtub bowl is low.

All cracks are sealed with silicone, the build-up of which can be removed with a rag soaked in a vinegar solution.

There is also an option for restoring a bathtub - read all the details of this method in a separate article.

When installing, an important role is played by the height to which you can raise the bathtub above the level of the sewer inlet. It should be raised higher for two reasons:

The flow from the bath will become more intense. In this case, it is not so much the speed of water removal that is important, but the fact that a powerful drain will almost completely eliminate the formation of hairballs on the drain grid and in the siphon.
The high location of the bath will make it possible to install a siphon with a deep elbow and, accordingly, a good water seal, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of unpleasant odors and harmful gases penetrating back from the sewer.

Deep elbow - protection against unpleasant sewer odors

The choice of material is also important. In most cases, it is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polypropylene. The latter material is more expensive, but at the same time it is stronger, more durable, its walls are smoother, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

A few words should also be said regarding the choice of drain. Thus, too cheap models of siphons, the metal mesh of which is attached to a bolt, can essentially be considered non-separable, and therefore unrepairable. The fact is that after a few months, the rust grabs the bolt so much that it is not possible to unscrew it without breaking the siphon. In this case, it does not even matter what metal the hardware is made of - steel or, for example, bronze or brass. It’s just that in the first case we will observe ordinary chemical corrosion, and in the rest - electrochemical corrosion.

In conclusion, we note that For an overflow in the bathroom, you should absolutely not use a rigid pipe. A flexible corrugated hose is quite suitable for this, which, on the one hand, is extremely easy to install, and on the other hand, due to its larger internal diameter, provides better water permeability, which reduces the likelihood that water from the bathtub will overflow.

An acrylic bathtub is made from plastics of different structures. The inner part is made of transparent plastic material - acrylic. It contains special additives that provide the bath with:

Hygienic properties. Thanks to the smooth surface, a person experiences a comfortable feeling, and the inside of the bathtub is practically not dirty, which prevents the growth of harmful bacteria.
Maintainability. Small chips or shallow scratches can be repaired.
Plastic. Under the influence of high temperatures, the product is given various shapes.
Variety of colors. To obtain the required color, a special powder is introduced into acrylic before the polymerization stage.
Fade resistant. Over time, the sanitary ware does not lose its original color.

Acrylic bathtubs are in demand due to their wide functionality and low weight. Like any material, acrylic has its disadvantages, which are expressed in:

Sensitivity to abrasives and alcohol-containing products. To wash the product, it is necessary to use special detergents to avoid damage to the thin acrylic film.
Poor resistance to high temperature. When exposed to hot water, the plastic softens and can become deformed.
High price. Bathtubs with the same capacity, made of iron or cast iron, are significantly inferior to their acrylic counterpart.
Mechanical fragility. The product may be damaged if a heavy object falls or is not properly secured.

To minimize the above disadvantages of acrylic plumbing fixtures, you need to use special detergents, first of all pour cold water, and then dilute it hot and reliably strengthen the structure in the bathroom. The article will discuss in detail the method of securely fixing the bathtub to its installation site.

The figure schematically shows the location of the frame and the sole for the bottom, made of bricks.

Installing a corner acrylic bathtub on a frame

To thoroughly strengthen an acrylic bathtub, install a screen and seal seams, you will need the following tools and material:

hammer drill with 8, 10 mm drill;
drill with a drill with a diameter of 6, 8, 14 mm (14 mm can be made from a feather drill);
crosshead screwdriver;
stationery knife;
tape measure and pencil;
level;
open-end wrenches 8 - 13 mm (size depends on the hardware used);
saw or electric jigsaw;
brush for applying drying oil;
gun for foam and silicone;
timber with a section of 30 by 30 mm;
drying oil, silicone and polyurethane foam;
bolts and connecting nuts with a diameter of 10 mm:
self-tapping screws with suitable dowels and logs 6 - 8 mm;
bricks;
metal corners with sides 50 mm and length 60 mm, two pieces;
external plastic corner for tiles.

Before installing a bathtub, all finishing work in the room must be completed and a hot and cold water distribution point and sewer outlet must be installed.

It is advisable not to remove the shipping film from the bathtub until the work is completed. To prevent the timber from rotting, it must be covered with drying oil.

Let's take an example of installing an acrylic corner bathtub 800 mm wide and 1600 mm long, produced by Kolo (Poland) on a frame.

An installation kit is included with the sanitary ware: square-section support pipes, legs, metal grips, hardware. But the kit is not enough for high-quality mounting of the bathtub. It is necessary to additionally make a rigid frame. Let's look at the order of its installation:

Connect the legs and pipes that come with the kit.
Attach the pipes with legs to the bottom of the bath using screws.
Place the bathtub in its location and, according to the level readings, adjust its position.
Using a pencil or marker on the wall adjacent to the product along the entire perimeter, draw a line for placing the lower part of the side of the bathtub.
Move the plumbing container away from the work site.
Attach metal grips to the wall.
Cut fragments from the timber with lengths equal to the distances between the metal grips, the grip and the edge of the bathtub.
Attach the cut pieces to the wall so that the container rests on them after installation.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the support beam to the floor, based on these measurements, make thrust elements from wood.
Apply silicone sealant to the side of the wood stop adjacent to the wall and install it as shown in photo 4.
Place the bathtub on the new frame, check its position and where the frame and rim fit.
Under the seat, mark the placement of corners for attaching wooden supports.
Move the bathtub to a safe place and fix the corners to the wall, to the corners of the double support beam, and to the stop. As a result, the seat should rest on the structure shown in photo 5.
Attach a siphon and overflow to the bathtub. Place it on a rigid frame and grips.
Connect the siphon to the sewer outlet and check the tightness of the drain connection.
There is a gap between the wooden support and the top of the side, into which tightly insert an additional beam to create a permanent support for the side (photo 6).

Photo 4. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on an additional timber frame.

Photo 5. Installation of a corner acrylic bathtub.

Photo 6. Attaching an acrylic bathtub to the wall.

The frame construction stage is over, let's move on to the next steps.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks

The bottom of the acrylic product rests on channels, but they do not securely fix the position of the bottom. The plastic softens under the influence of temperature; if it is not further strengthened during the bathing process, the bottom will dynamically change its position. Over time, these stresses will cause damage to the acrylic. When the installation of an acrylic bathtub on the frame is completed, it is advisable to further strengthen it with bricks and foam.

Work order:

Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor.
Based on the measurements, select the number and size of bricks so that they are enough to cover the entire area of the bottom of the bathtub, while leaving a gap of 5 - 10 mm between the brick base and the bottom. Instead of brick, you can use cinder block or its fragments.
Fill the gap left with foam. After the foam has hardened, the bath is ready for use.

This installation of an acrylic bathtub on bricks not only ensures an even load on the product, but also reliable fixation and reduced heat loss.

Screen installation

The side screen of acrylic bathtubs is often sold separately. For rectangular structures, the side part can be made independently, for example, from plasterboard followed by tiling. In this case, the screen is installed at an angle for the convenience of placing your feet while doing some kind of work on the bathtub. For the same purposes, an opening with a width of 200 - 300 mm and a height of 100 - 150 mm is left in its lower part, in the middle.

Such protection would be difficult to produce for corner products. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a standard screen along with the bathroom. It comes with grips, stops and spring-loaded legs. This kit does not provide structural rigidity.

Let's consider one of the options for strengthening the screen

Attach metal grips and stops to the bathtub and the wall so that, resting against the stops and grips, the screen is flush with the bathtub in a vertical position.

Install the feet into the side protection mounting holes. Prepare 6 pieces of timber. with a height corresponding to the height between the edges of the screen.

In the four prepared elements in the side part, make a hole with a diameter of 14 mm and a depth equal to the height of the connecting nut. Since the nut must fit tightly into the wood, the hole should not be drilled out.

Wooden products with nuts will serve as additional support legs, others serve as fittings.

Drive the connecting nuts into the beam. On the side parts of the protection, mark holes for attaching wooden elements to the screen. The beam should be positioned this way: without holes on the sides, and the other four parts should be evenly distributed over the protection, taking into account the existing legs.

In places where the board will be placed without connecting nuts, on both sides of the screen collar, make holes with a diameter of 4 mm in the middle and countersink to place the screw head flush with the product.

At the installation points of the beam with nuts in the upper part of the protection, make 4 mm holes with countersinking, and on the opposite side a hole with a diameter of 10 mm.

Place the wooden elements tightly in the screen and secure them with screws and bolts in accordance with their purpose. Place the protection in its place, spread it with the bolts installed in the additional support legs, between the floor and the side of the bathtub.

Sealing gaps

A gap forms between the installed plumbing fixtures and the wall. To prevent water from entering the wooden frame structures and the floor, it must be sealed. The gap can be removed in an original way using silicone and an external plastic corner for the tiles.

First of all, marking is done and, in accordance with this, the length and corners of the corner are trimmed. Then the gap is filled with silicone and the prepared corner is inserted into it.

After a day, the structure becomes airtight and fits perfectly into the interior of the bathroom.

Dismantling an acrylic product

The service life of acrylic is short compared to its cast iron and steel counterparts. The bathtub may leak due to non-compliance with the rules for caring for acrylic, mechanical damage to the body, etc. If restoration is not possible, the product must be replaced. Since the product is securely fixed to the floor and walls with silicone and foam, let’s consider the procedure for dismantling it:

Remove the side protection of the bathtub and put it out of reach.
Using a hacksaw blade for metal, cut the foam layer between the bricks and the bottom.
Place a replaceable blade of a stationery knife between the outer plastic corner, which closes the gap between the walls of the room and the shoulder of the product, and the wall and cut the silicone sealing layer around the entire perimeter.
Remove the corner from the gap. If it cannot be separated, then lift the corner by the free end and trim the sealant.
Since the container is fixed with metal grips, lift one end with force until the edge comes out of the groove. Do the same manipulation with the remaining sides.

This is where the dismantling of the product ends. When replacing with a similar model, there is no need to remodel the frame.

After much thought, weighing the pros and cons various types bathtubs, you decided to go with acrylic. High quality, beautiful design and reasonable price - an excellent alternative to cast iron and metal bathtubs. Now is the time to take care of installing the selected product.

If you purchase a bathtub from some Chinese manufacturer that is more affordable, then most likely there will be nothing in the kit other than this product. If you buy a product, for example, from an Italian company, then the manufacturers add a frame for an acrylic bathtub to the kit. Thanks to her, you don’t have to rack your brains and think about how to install a bathtub.

Assembling the frame and installing the structure in place will not take long. Using this option, you can do everything yourself, and you will not have to doubt the stability and reliability of the installation, because it is designed in such a way that the weight in the bathroom is distributed evenly, putting pressure on the entire surface.

Frame assembly

To assemble the frame frame, a kit provided by the manufacturer is used; it already contains frames and fasteners (legs, plastic covers for legs, studs, racks, washers, nuts, dowels, metal profiles, self-tapping screws). There are options for partially prepared configurations, when the holes in the reinforcement are already drilled and dowels are inserted into them. But we will consider another option to assemble the frame with our own hands. Installing the frame requires precise measurements and the ability to use tools. We will need:

screwdrivers;
drill;
set of wrenches;
pliers;
mounting hooks;
manufacturer's kit;
silicone sealant;
level;
roulette.

Don’t forget to take a marker or pencil, because when assembling a frame structure with your own hands, you need to make markings. The assembly is divided into 3 main parts.

To begin work, you need to turn the bathtub upside down, having previously laid a soft cloth or cardboard box. We do not remove the protective film from the inner surface so as not to damage the coating. There should be access from all sides of the bowl. It is recommended to lay out the fasteners and frames so that you can see what is where, then you will spend less time searching for the right spare part. After preparation, we begin assembly.

Measure the distance between the legs and fasteners, apply markings (the legs should be located as close to the edges as possible, 1 pair is closer to the drain hole, and 2 pairs are as close as possible to the opposite edge)
Drill holes in the fittings and the product (be careful when using a drill; if the hole is too deep, you can damage the bathtub coating or cause a crack along it; it is better to use a drill stop)
Install dowels into longitudinal metal profiles
Using long self-tapping screws, connect the profiles, matching the holes in the reinforcement and the installed dowels, following the manufacturer’s instructions
Place the assembled frame in the center of the bathtub bottom
We install the legs according to the intended markings, 3 pcs. – to the front edge, 2 pcs. - to the bottom of the bowl and 2 pcs. on the edge of the wall
We place the stand on the side, take a long pin with a nut, insert it into the hole and screw it into the metal profile
We fix the hairpin and put a plastic support on the foot to prevent slipping

Procedure for assembling a bathroom frame

The other support legs are assembled in the same way. The legs are attached to the bottom of the bath in the same way, but you need to use short pins.

Once the frame is assembled, you need to adjust the height of the bathtub. It should stand straight, without bending and not stagger. It is very important to choose a straight position for the bath, this will determine how long it will last you. Be sure to pay attention to the place for installing the siphon and drain; it should be sufficient and there should be easy access to it.

Let's highlight 6 stages.

Completing product installation and testing

To check whether the installation was carried out correctly, run cold water into the bathtub. If after a few hours the structure does not deform and water does not leak at the drainage point, then you have done everything correctly and now the bathtub can be used.

Water test

Advantages frame installation Compared to others - increased resistance to deformation. Bathtubs made of acrylic do not withstand large weight and sudden temperature changes, therefore, if installed incorrectly, the service life is noticeably reduced, the product may lose its shape or “sink” under the weight. In our case, the bathtub is held on all sides by a metal corset, made by hand, and legs standing in the right places, which adds not only years of life to the bathtub, but also peace of mind when using it.

As you can see, assembling the frame with your own hands is quite possible, you just need to act strictly according to the instructions, follow all the steps and take your time. Now you can be confident in the reliability of your bathtub design.

Video instruction

Inconvenient and heavy cast iron or steel bathtubs give way modern products made of acrylic. They attract with their advantages: whiteness and ease of care. A wide variety of shapes (rectangular, corner, round) will allow you to choose the right option for any room. But choosing and purchasing a bath is only 50% of the job. Further operation and service life largely depend on installation. This issue should be approached responsibly, because the slightest mistake will lead to damage.

Acrylic bathtubs - strengths and weaknesses

Such products are attractive appearance, various shapes, colors. However, they also have disadvantages that should be taken into account.

Let's start with the advantages:

1. Plasticity. It is this indicator that allows us to produce baths of any shape.
2. Light weight. The average weight is about 20 kg. For this reason, even one person can handle the installation.
3. High thermal engineering. Acrylic is a fairly “warm” material, so products made from it retain the water temperature longer.
4. The ability to carry out repairs yourself using liquid acrylic or a special insert.

But there are also disadvantages. Knowing the disadvantages will extend the life of the bathtub. These include:

1. Sensitivity to high temperatures. Acrylic is a material that deforms at temperatures above +60 degrees.
2. Fragility. If you accidentally drop something heavy, you can break through the bottom of the product. Therefore, they must be installed and subsequently used carefully.
3. Vulnerability. To wash the container, use hard brushes, aggressive household chemicals it is forbidden.

Don't skimp on an acrylic bathtub. Choose well-known brands, even if they are more expensive - but in this case there is a guarantee of reliability and long service life.

The nuances of choosing a height and installation procedure

Before installation, you should familiarize yourself with the accepted standard. Following the recommendations will allow you to use the room for water treatments with maximum comfort. This also affects operational safety. When installing, you should take into account personal preferences and requirements. For example, in medical institutions bathtubs are placed at a level of 50 cm from the floor. The main thing when choosing a height is ease of use. According to current regulations, the optimal figure is 60 cm.

Since most apartments have small rooms, most often the bathtub is mounted near the walls; if there is enough space, it can be placed in the center of the room. Before you begin installation, you need to select the appropriate option. Acrylic bathtubs are installed:

on the legs - they must be included in the kit;
on a frame with legs;
on a brick base.

Some experts who want to give the structure maximum strength use a combined installation method: on legs and a brick frame.

Regardless of the chosen method, when carrying out work it is necessary to provide access to pipes and communications. This is easy when using legs or a frame, and when constructing a brick base, a gap is left, which allows for maintenance.

Self-installation - step-by-step instructions

To choose the most suitable installation method, you need to familiarize yourself with all existing options.

On your feet

The works look like this:

installing legs in the required places;
bath installation;
height adjustment of legs;
securing the product;
finishing.

To install, you need to turn the bathtub over and find areas for fastening. All that remains is to screw the legs. If installation is carried out on a special platform, the products are mounted on guides that are attached to the bottom of the structure. To adjust the font, you cannot do without a building level: first set the height of one leg, and from this determine the values for the remaining three.

Under no circumstances should you drill holes yourself. This will lead to serious deformations of the entire bathtub. In addition, the product may turn over, because the manufacturer, when creating it, chose places to install the legs taking into account the correct distribution of the load when the structure was filled with water.

After installing the legs, turn the bath over and place it on the selected area. At this stage, it is advisable to cover the bottom of the product with some material to prevent accidental damage. All that remains is to adjust the height. First, the side in contact with the wall is aligned, then the position of the rest is adjusted. The instructions are as follows:

raise one of the corners to the required height by rotating the screw;
put building level to the adjacent corner, equalize its height;
align the remaining sides in the same way;
correct errors if any.

If you need to carry out installation with a slight slope towards the drain, you can simply change the height of the legs by only 1.5-2 cm.

On a factory frame

Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

unpacking structural elements;
making markings for two baths, where you need to mark the mounting points;
drilling holes for fasteners;
installation of brackets;
installation of frame legs and other elements;
connecting the drain hole, siphon;
sealing the connection;
installation of the bathtub and its leveling;
installation of hooks, which are required to prevent the unit from overturning;
hanging the product on hooks;
sewer connection.

All that remains is to check the tightness of all connections. It's simple: fill the container with water, inspect all the elements. If there are problem areas, they are treated a second time with a sealant. If you need to fasten the guides, be sure to use the fasteners supplied by the manufacturer. Drill holes only in designated areas. Moreover, in order to avoid damage to the bathtub due to inept actions, it is advisable to wrap electrical tape around the drill. This will indicate the depth to which the tool can plunge.

It is not advisable to replace the fasteners supplied in the kit with any others. After all, the manufacturer accurately calculates the dimensions of all products, which will avoid damage. After installation is completed, it is advisable to close the bathtub and all communications using a decorative screen.

On a brick frame

Although manufacturers advise installation on the provided engineering supports, sometimes it becomes necessary to install it on a brick base. This is usually associated with the implementation of an unusual design solution, the area and shape of the room.

When choosing a brick base, you should give preference to two separate supports - it is easier to install and use. If the frame is made correctly, the base will have maximum strength - the structure will serve faithfully for many decades. To make the base you need the following tools and materials:

brick;
metal profiles or corners;
cement mortar;
sealant;
self-tapping screws

The instructions are as follows:

1. The location of the lower edge of the side is marked on the wall. Several holes for fasteners are drilled along the line.
2. The profile is installed and fixed.
3. Mark the base on the floor.
4. In progress brickwork. When the structure is dry, proceed to installation.
5. Communications are connected and joints are processed using sealant.
6. The bath is filled with water to check the tightness of the connections.

Metal profiles mounted at the bottom of the font will help strengthen the structure. If it was decided to make a rectangular brick base, it is worth providing space to ensure free access to all communications. If you need to make a slight slope, you need to lay a metal plate up to 1 cm wide in the masonry or simply take more mortar.

If you purchased a bathtub without a special decorative screen, you can make this product yourself. When choosing a material, you need to consider a number of requirements:

it is possible to use only moisture-resistant material that is not afraid of temperature fluctuations;
it is necessary to ensure quick access to communications.

If the bathtub is installed on a brick base, then on the front side you can assemble a brick wall and decorate it with ceramic tiles. Moreover, the top row should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the side; to seal, the rest of the part needs to be “blown out” with polyurethane foam. To access communications, it is necessary to leave a technological hole and make a door.

Often plastic, gypsum board, and MDF are used for finishing. Plastic products will allow you to lining an acrylic bathtub as quickly as possible. And if the panel becomes unusable, it can be quickly replaced. The top of the plasterboard is finished with tiles, film, and decorative plaster. GKLV is installed on a frame made of wood and metal. Before assembly, the racks are treated with either a moisture-resistant primer or an anti-corrosion compound.