Step 1. We print out the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid it with soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, studs, washers, nuts, stands. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, the reinforced frame contains more metal profiles, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.
Typically, holes are already drilled in the reinforcement and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to mark and drill holes yourself.
Most acrylic bathtubs are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line adjacent to the walls with metal hooks and hangers.
If the kit does not include drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.
For work you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also don’t forget about silicone-based sealant, a bubble level, a tape measure and a pencil.
Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. We turn the bathtub over without removing the protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to any side of the bowl.
Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bathtub and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.
We place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 3. Let's move on to installing the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bathtub, two under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge that will be adjacent to the wall.
We begin to fasten the racks to the profile and side of the bathtub. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long pin into it, and a nut onto the pin. We insert the resulting pin with a stand into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. Secure the stud with a nut and locknut. We screw a plastic support on top.
We assemble the remaining support legs in the same way. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side should be 60 cm.
Short studs are intended for the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, secure them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.
Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.
If necessary, tighten the studs with a wrench to level the position.
We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bathtub.
Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take a level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. There is no need to make slopes for better water flow.
Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. The general principle for connecting inspection siphons (piping) of the knee type is as follows:
Note! Before the stage of final installation of the bathtub and screen, you can insulate the bottom of the bowl with polyurethane foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, bottom and partially grasping the fasteners for the purpose of their additional fixation.
Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bathtub is level, all that remains is to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bathtub. We put the edge of the bathtub on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick siphon corrugation into the sewer hole. After joining, apply a strip of silicone sealant to the junction of the bathtub and the wall and attach the baseboard or protective strip.
Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and reassemble all products in order to eliminate defects.
Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clip fastenings are included. First, the upper fasteners are screwed, after which the opposite ones are screwed down. The decorative panel simply “snaps” onto them.
Attach the squeeze plates to the inserts, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeeze plate 
You can also make a frame for a decorative panel from wooden blocks or metal profiles.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
No factory frame? No problem! We can install an acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing a bathtub on a factory-made frame.
The support can be solid or columnar.
Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base
First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.
Second step. We lay out the bricks over the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.
The bricks are laid on traditional cement mortar.
Third step. We assemble a frame made of sheet plywood around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Don't forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.
Fourth step. We evenly foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the boundaries of the frame. We immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture-resistant sheets 10 mm thick.
Fifth step. Seal the drain tightly acrylic bathtub. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to regulate the level of installation of the container.
Sixth step. We pour the previously prepared water into the container and place the bath on the substrate according to the building level.
Seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not hardened, we adjust the evenness of the installation of the bathtub using supports. As a result, the water in the container should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show “0”.
Eighth step. Having aligned the bathtub, pour water into it to about half the volume. Under the weight of water, the foam will not be able to lift the container, and the bath itself will take on the required slope.
Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container must be recessed into the wall, first outline the outline of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bath. A hammer drill will help us with this. If a groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, plasterboard or other lightweight material), at the level of the lower cut we simply fix a beam impregnated with , or a steel corner. We will additionally strengthen the supporting bar at the end with stops.
Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. We fill the gaps between the container and the bricks with foam. We install a decorative screen and baseboards.
Example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaic finishing 
First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.
Second step. We mark the base at the location where the brick supports are installed. The most correct option is to erect the pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.
Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we begin to prepare the cement mortar. We don’t prepare too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so we don’t need any extra expenses.
Fourth step. Let's start laying. We place the support for the back of the bathtub at a height of 190 mm, and the pillar for the front edge of the tank is erected at 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bathtub being installed. The difference in height of the pillars will provide conditions for efficient drainage of water from the container.
Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloping bottom to ensure water drainage. If you have such a bathtub, set all the supports level, focusing on the top part.
Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We place the container slowly, moving it tightly towards the walls. We fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathtub with sealant.
If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. This type of fastening is used quite rarely, but still occurs.
After making sure that the bathtub is installed correctly, firmly and evenly, we connect the sewerage system, install it, mount a decorative screen and lay the baseboard on the bathtub.
Video - Installing an acrylic bath using a combined method
Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself
Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands
Acrylic bathtubs today are gradually replacing other types of similar plumbing fixtures. They are made of lightweight, practical material. At the same time, the cost of acrylic bathtubs remains acceptable for buyers. For them to last a long time, you need to install the bowl correctly. You can perform this procedure yourself. How to mount an acrylic bathtub to a wall will be discussed below.
Features of acrylic
It is quite possible to install an acrylic bathtub yourself. This is explained by the characteristics of this material. It is lightweight and practical. Therefore, products made from it are much easier to install in the bathroom than, for example, cast iron or steel bowls.
The advantage of acrylic bathtubs is the variety of their shapes and sizes. If desired, you can purchase a straight, angular, or shaped bowl. You can choose a suitable option for any interior style. Therefore, when wanting to repair and replace a bathtub, owners of houses and apartments most often opt for acrylic plumbing fixtures.
It is also worth noting that bathtubs are available in different sizes. They can be quite small. In this category, the most commonly purchased acrylic bathtub with a frame is 150x70 cm. However, other sizes are also in demand. The choice depends on the dimensions of the bath.
Acrylic has a high ability to retain heat. The water in such a bowl will not cool down quickly. At the same time, the inner surface is easy to clean and does not turn yellow during use. This is true for products made from high quality acrylic. Baths in this case last for several decades.
During the installation process, it is important to correctly fix the bathtub in its intended place. If this work is not done correctly, the bowl will become deformed. This is a shortcoming of the material presented. However, it can be easily fixed by running correct installation.
Sustainability
The installation of an acrylic bathtub does not have to be trusted to professionals. You can do this work yourself if you wish. To do this, you need to take into account that the stability of this product in different planes is not the same. Thus, in the vertical direction, the structure on legs is stable. Manufacturers create supports that can withstand the weight of a bowl of water. This is easy to feel if you stand inside the bathtub.
However, in the horizontal plane the material cannot boast of stability. Acrylic and steel bowls quickly come out of balance in this direction. If the bathtub is left to move horizontally during installation, the sewer connection may be damaged.
It is also worth noting that an acrylic bathtub 170 cm long in a bathroom with dimensions, for example, 180x200 cm, can only be adjacent to the wall on one side. In this case, its side parts remain unfixed. The tightness of the joint between the wall and the bathtub will certainly break down over time if other fastening options are not provided.
For a bowl made of acrylic, it is important to choose one of the correct installation options. This will allow you to securely fix the bowl in a horizontal plane, avoiding troubles in the future.
Wall mount
If you need to fasten an acrylic bathtub 170, 180, 150 cm wide or another size, you can position it in one of four positions. The following options are possible:
It is believed that the most durable installation option is to install the bathtub in a niche. This can be done in typical Khrushchev buildings. In such apartments the bathroom is very small. Therefore, by purchasing an acrylic bathtub 150x70 with or without a frame, you can ensure reliable fixation of plumbing between three walls. If the room is spacious, such an installation will be more difficult to complete. It will be necessary to build another partition to create a niche of the required size.
However, there are many ways to firmly fix the bathtub. It may not be in contact with the walls at all. True, it is much more convenient when the plumbing fixtures are not located in the center of the room. This option is suitable only for owners of very spacious premises.
To perform correct installation, you need to use special clamps. The fastening material must hold the bath firmly in the wall. Its main element should be bent upward. This will allow him to get closer to the wall below. The side of the bathtub is put on the fasteners. This way he can press closely to the wall below.
In order for the clamps to perform their intended functions, it is necessary to carry out precise markings, as well as control the position of all components during the installation process.
Factory fasteners
How is an acrylic bathtub attached to the wall? There are several options for such fixation. The delivery set may include a reinforced steel frame. This is a prefabricated structure made of steel profile (square cross-section). This frame is attached to the bottom of the bathtub. The structure takes on the weight of the bath, water and people, evenly distributing the load on the support posts and horizontal structural elements.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands is easy. The design allows the bowl to be firmly fixed. It can even be installed in the center of the room. She won't get loose. However, such a frame is not always included in the package. Sometimes, in order to save money, the manufacturer replaces it with two transverse bars. They have short legs. In this case, installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands should be done next to the wall.
It is worth noting that simply propping the bowl up against a vertical surface will not be enough. Over time, it will begin to move away from the wall. A gap will appear between it and the bathtub. To prevent this from happening, the acrylic bathtub is fixed using special brackets. They can be purchased at a specialty store.
Before fixing the bathtub with brackets, it is recommended to seal the side with double-sided tape or sanitary sealant. After this, the product is attached to the wall using brackets. This option is also suitable if the owners want to decorate the outer edge of the plumbing with tiles.
Insert into a niche
Considering existing methods of attaching a bathtub to a wall, it is worth noting such an option as inserting it into a niche. It is suitable for a room that does not even have a rough finish yet. To perform such an installation, a groove is cut into the wall. It needs to be created at the correct height.
To do this, the structure is assembled and installed on legs. Next it is placed against the wall. The installation height of the bath is determined. A line is made along the level of its side. Moreover, you need to take into account that tiles can still be laid on the floor, which will cause the height of the base to rise. The edge of the side of the bathtub will have to fit into the groove and rest on its edge inside the wall. The depth of the cutout should be at least 5 cm.
When the bathtub is installed in its intended place, the tiles are installed on the wall. The joint is coated with sealant.
Metal corners
If the finishing of the room has already been completed, you can use metal corners. First, the installation height of the bath is determined. Holes are created at the required level using a perforator. Dowels are inserted into them. Next, corners are applied to the wall (if necessary, holes are also made in them). The locking rod is screwed into the prepared seat.
The side of the bathtub is placed on this corner. He will lean on her. Next, you just need to coat the joints with sealant.
Step-by-step instructions for fixing to brackets
Fastening the side of an acrylic bathtub to the wall is most often done using brackets, corners or brackets. Installation in this case follows the same method. It is worth considering in more detail.
First you need to do the correct marking. A line is drawn on the wall that corresponds to the location of the edge of the bathtub. To do this, the structure is assembled using a factory frame or crossbars with legs. The adjustment screws of the latter must be set to the middle position.
To attach an acrylic bathtub to the wall, the bowl is placed against a vertical surface. Markings are made on the wall along the side. It is important to find out the features of adjusting the legs horizontally. Subsequently, you will need to adjust the height to the height of the fasteners. The markings are checked using a level. It should be smooth. Otherwise, the bath will be skewed.
Completion of installation
Next, the selected type of fixture for the bathtub is installed. The clamps are embedded into the wall. To do this, use a hammer drill or a powerful electric drill. After this, the assembled structure of the bathtub and frame is installed on the brackets. The side should engage with the latches.
After this, use the adjusting screws on the legs to adjust the height of the bath. Its position is checked using building level. Only after the bowl is in the correct position can you connect the siphon. Water communications are also provided. After this, finishing can be done in the room (if it has not been created previously). The joint between the bathtub and the wall is treated with sealant.
It is worth noting that similar recommendations apply to ordinary acrylic bathtubs. If the design includes hydromassage, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals. In this case, the operation of the system requires correct connection not only to plumbing, but also to electronics. Therefore, it will be difficult to carry out such installation with your own hands. Specialists will not only be able to correctly connect all the elements of the system, but will also firmly fix the bathtub against the wall.
Brick frame
In addition to attaching the acrylic bathtub to the wall with brackets and corners, you can resort to a more radical method. It allows you to firmly fix the structure, eliminating the possibility of it loosening. This method involves the construction of a brick frame.
In this case, a wall of the required height is erected from blocks and cement mortar. It should be taken into account that there should be a distance between the bottom of the bath and the floor. should not be monolithic. There should be a hole in it that provides access to the siphon.
Using bricks and cement mortar, a niche is built in the bathroom. A bathtub will be installed in it. You can begin construction work only after purchasing the bathtub. The niche is created specifically for the specific dimensions of the plumbing fixtures. This method involves inserting bolts into the wall on which the bathtub will rest on the opposite side.
It is recommended to lay a layer of polyurethane foam between the bottom of the bathtub and the base of the room. In this case, it will be almost impossible to damage the back of the bowl. A special mounting film is also laid down. When installing a bathtub in a prepared space, you need to fill it with water. This way it will fit better in the niche.
The bathtub is installed in the created niche only after the solution and foam have completely dried. All seams are then treated with sanitary silicone.
Some rookie mistakes
Fastening an acrylic bathtub to the wall can be done by inexperienced craftsmen. To install the bowl correctly, you need to consider a few simple tips. Some beginners make mistakes when fixing plumbing fixtures to the wall. As a result, the bathtub wobbles, and the joint sealed with sealant begins to leak water. If no action is taken, the drainage system or bathtub body may be damaged.
To avoid problems later, you should not think that by moving the bathtub close to the wall and covering the joint with sealant or a special solution, you can achieve good fixation. To achieve this, you need to use brackets, brackets or other suitable fasteners. You can also make a cut into the wall, creating a groove. However, ordinary mortar or sealant will not be able to firmly fix the bathtub against the wall.
It is also worth noting that many craftsmen cover joints using gypsum-based solutions. Of course, such compositions are distinguished by their whiteness. But gypsum mixtures are absolutely not suitable for wet rooms. Therefore, when creating the final finish, you need to use special white or transparent sealants. They must contain antiseptic components. Thanks to the use of sanitary sealant, fungus and mold will not form at the joints.
Having considered how to mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall, you can install it yourself correctly. In this case, the plumbing will last a long time and will not become loose or collapse.
The appearance of acrylic bathtubs on the plumbing market has become a real gift for connoisseurs of original products. Acrylic bathtubs have different geometries and sizes; thanks to their unique technological characteristics, they can be manufactured into very complex configurations.
The comfort of using a bathroom depends on two equally important conditions: the quality of the product and the correct installation. Before describing the process of installing acrylic bathtubs, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the features of production technology and the strengths and weaknesses. Such knowledge will help to avoid annoying mistakes; during installation, due attention will be paid to preventing problems from arising during operation.
Today there are two types of bathtubs on the market:
- made from pure cast acrylic;
- from acrylic-netrilbutadiene styrene and polymethyl methacrylate in various proportions.
The former have increased strength, but are somewhat limited in the ability to create shapes. The latter are more plastic, which facilitates the manufacturing process, but are noticeably inferior in strength to the former. The cost ratio is the same. Which bathtub to choose is up to each user to decide for themselves. But there are several general recommendations that allow you to choose the best option for yourself.
What to look for?
| Index | Short description |
|---|---|
| The larger the acrylic bathtub, the thicker the material should be. For standard bathtubs, the thickness of acrylic can start from 6 mm; for large bathtubs, the minimum thickness starts from 8 mm. It is better to buy products made from cast acrylic. | |
| Acrylic bathtubs can only be mounted on legs, on legs and special metal frames or on masonry materials. The most durable option is the third, the cheapest and simplest is the first. If the bathtub is designed to carry a lot of weight, then choose only those options that have metal frames included. | |
| High-quality goods are produced by both foreign and domestic manufacturers. The only condition is to buy bathtubs only from well-known brands. | |
| White color is considered not only traditional, but also universal. If you want to create unique bathroom interiors, you can buy products in various colors. |
acrylic bathtubs
Among all the possible methods of installing acrylic bathtubs, the fastest and cheapest option is considered to be one with legs, and we will dwell on it in more detail.
Types of preparatory work
- Completing all construction work indoors and utility lines.
Important. Due to the peculiarities of fixation, acrylic bathtubs can only be installed on concrete surfaces. The walls must be brick; in extreme cases, the use of foam concrete is allowed. It is strictly forbidden to install acrylic bathtubs in rooms with plasterboard walls. This requirement is related to the peculiarities of fixing products.
- Cleaning up construction waste and preparing the workplace. During the work, nothing should interfere, the floor should be clean, to prevent scratches, the surface should be covered with cardboard or thick cloth.
- Preparation of tools and materials. To seal cracks, you will need a special sealant for bathrooms (it inhibits the proliferation of microorganisms and has improved performance), a set of plumbing tools, an electric drill, a tape measure, a level, a pencil or a felt-tip pen.
Before installing the bathtub, carefully check its condition and the completeness of additional fixing elements. Please remember that the manufacturer's warranty only covers manufacturing defects. Damage sustained during improper installation will have to be repaired at your own expense. Remove the protective film from the front surfaces only after all installation work has been completed.
Preparing the premises
Step 1. Seal the ceramic tile joints between the wall and floor. Use special antibacterial silicone, apply it evenly around the perimeter in those places where the acrylic bathtub will be installed.
Practical advice. It is easier to level the silicone using a thin narrow spatula or a self-made stick. To prevent excess sealant from sticking to the surface of ceramic tiles, spray them with soapy water before leveling. Dip the stick into the same solution, this will prevent the silicone from sticking to it, and the sealant seam will be smooth.
Step 2. If your bathtub drain is not located in the place where it is required, then you need to make a special liner. Assemble plastic pipes for water drainage, pipe diameter 50 mm. Measure the distance from the existing drain to the location of the bathtub drain. The pipes are connected to the existing drain using a triangle.
Important. Do not forget to slope the pipes; the height difference is enough to be a centimeter or two per linear meter.
There is no need to precisely control this parameter; check the slope with an ordinary building level.
If turns are required, then use additional elements. When connecting pipes, be sure to wet the sealing rubber; you can use ordinary soapy water.
If some pipes need to be cut, then do it with a grinder with a metal stone or a hacksaw. After cutting, be sure to remove burrs with a sharp mounting knife and make a small chamfer. Otherwise, the sharp ends may damage the rubber seals, and the system will have to be disassembled, the seals replaced, and reassembled. The chamfer is made with an abrasive disc. Hold it at an angle of 30–45° to the end plastic pipe and slowly turn around. If hangnails appear, cut them off with a knife.
Burrs on the cut edge of the pipe must be cleaned with a knife or sandpaper. Otherwise, hair and threads will subsequently cling to them.
If the siphon does not have a corrugated pipe, then you need to accurately measure the dimensions; if there is a corrugation, then the work is greatly simplified. Make sure that the drain pipe does not interfere with the installation of the bathtub feet.
If there is no cold and hot water supply near the shower installation site, then this problem also needs to be solved. There are two ways: remove the ceramic tiles on the walls and make a hidden liner or install pipes along the walls. Which option to choose - decide for yourself, taking into account your needs and capabilities.
Now that the preparatory work is complete, you can begin installing the clawfoot bathtub.
Bathtub installation instructions
Step 1. Cover the floor with cardboard, turn the bathtub upside down and remove the protective packaging.
Below it should be the manufacturer's instructions; find the document and study it carefully. Check the completeness of the legs, count the number of hardware.
Pay attention to their characteristics and purpose.
The standard package includes:
- four plastic legs. They have internal threads for screwing in and adjusting the height and holes for fixing to the floor;
- two mounting channels (racks). Made from thick sheet steel, the outer surfaces are coated with a layer of zinc to protect against corrosion processes. Fastening is done using holes;
- four studs. On one side, plastic legs are screwed to them, and on the other side they are fixed to the supporting channels;
- nuts With their help, the legs are adjusted in height and fixed in the desired position;
- self-tapping screws Used for fastening load-bearing channels (planks);
- metal grips. Serve for attaching the sides of the bathtub to the wall;
- dowels for fixing the grips to the wall.
Most bathtubs have siphons with overflow. If they are not available, then these elements must be purchased separately.
Step 2. Find the place where the strips are fixed. If the instructions do not indicate their location, then they should be mounted at the maximum distance from each other. But subject to a very important condition - all self-tapping screws must be screwed only into a special thickened place on the bottom. The slats should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath. Install the elements using a tape measure and a square.
Step 3. Using a thin pencil or felt-tip pen, mark the places where the slats are attached to the bottom. Select the screws according to the length and secure the strips. Make sure that the length of the screws is approximately 0.5–1 cm less than the thickness of the bottom of the bathtub. Otherwise, mechanical damage to the front surface of the bath may occur. Tighten the screws carefully, do not allow them to turn. It is better to work with an ordinary screwdriver; it is difficult for beginners to control the tightening torque of a screwdriver.
What to do if the screw has turned? You cannot leave hardware in this condition. Unscrew it completely, insert matches into the hole, lubricate them with sealant and repeat tightening. To make the matches fit more tightly, you need to sharpen the ends a little. This method allows you to increase the strength of the connection, but the reliability will be less than fixing it the first time.
Important. The diameter of the holes being drilled should be 1.5–2.0 mm less than the diameter of the screw. Be sure to monitor the drilling depth.
You can do this in two ways:
- use a special stop ruler, it is sold together with the drill;
- Measure the depth of the hole on the drill and wrap a little electrical tape or tape at this distance.
You can try fixing the screws without first drilling the holes. Make your decision after practical experience. Screw in a smaller self-tapping screw in any free space on the bottom. If everything went well, the acrylic and the insert are not cracked, then you can fix the planks using the same method. This greatly increases reliability and reduces the risk of damage to the inner surface of the acrylic bathtub.
Step 4. Start assembling the legs. Screw a locknut and a plastic leg onto the axle, and another nut on the other side of the axle. Insert the assembled element into the hole in the bar and secure with the top nut. Using the same algorithm, assemble and install all the legs. Do not overtighten the locknuts; do everything by hand.
Step 5. Using a tape measure, set the preliminary height of the bath; in most cases, the distance from the side to the floor ranges from 50–60 cm.
That's it for the assembly metal structures finished, start installing the siphon with overflow.
Siphon assembly
Step 1. Check the completeness of the siphon spare parts and their technical condition. Carefully inspect the rubber rings and gaskets; their surfaces should be smooth, without depressions, sagging or burrs. If the plastic elements show signs of shrinkage of the material during cooling, you are dealing with an unscrupulous manufacturer; never buy such products. Lay out all the elements on a clean surface and study their purpose. Before doing this, read the instructions and familiarize yourself with the attached assembly diagram.
Step 2. Start assembling the kit from the largest part - the flask or other siphon seal. Pay attention to which side the cone seals should be placed; when tightening, they should enter the pipe and increase in diameter, and not be pressed against the end of the tube.
Step 3. Attach the overflow tube and replace the drain grate. Make all connections by hand, do not clamp the elements too tightly. Before installing the drain and overflow grilles, remove the protective film around the openings. Let the rest of the surface remain protected; the film is completely removed only after all installation work is completed.
Now you can install the acrylic bathtub and connect the drain.
Installing an acrylic bathtub in place
Step 1. Place the bathtub against the wall and check the position of the sides with a level.
All of them must lie strictly in a horizontal plane. If there are deviations, level them with your feet. It is not very convenient to do this; you will have to lie on the floor under the bathtub and work in this position. After final alignment, tighten the locknuts until they are secure. Check if she is standing on all her legs. Apply pressure in different parts of the bathtub; if there is any swaying, correct the position of the legs.
If the bathtub is of high quality, then the bottom has already been tilted and all the water will go down the drain. For peace of mind, we recommend checking this indicator: pour a little water into the bottom of the bathtub and see if all of it goes away.
Step 2. Mark the installation locations for the side supports.
Without them, using an acrylic bathtub is prohibited for two reasons. Firstly, the insufficient strength of acrylic can cause cracks due to heavy loads on the sides. Secondly, even minor deformations of the sides cause depressurization of the seam between the bathtub and the wall.
Marking can be done in two ways:
- measure the full height of the bath along the top edge of the side;
- from the resulting indicator, subtract the amount of bend of the side to the inner plane;
- at this distance, draw horizontal lines under the level on the walls, the upper part of the side metal grips should lie on this line;
- hold them in this position and mark the places for drilling holes for the dowels.
This method is considered theoretically correct, but practitioners rarely use it: it takes a long time and there is a high probability of making a mistake. It is much easier to place one side stop all the way from the bottom of the bathtub and mark its location with a pencil. Using a level, draw a horizontal line on two walls. Further along the line, the remaining stops are placed to take measurements for the fixation holes. This is not only easier and faster, but also completely eliminates the possibility of error.
Practical advice. If the holes fall into the joints between tiles or very close to the edges, then it is better to move them. The stops do not have an exact installation location; they can be shifted a few centimeters in any direction without any problems. And drilling holes in the joints can cause cracking of ceramic tiles; eliminating this problem is not only difficult, but sometimes impossible.
Step 3. Drill holes for the dowels.
This should be done carefully; when drilling ceramic tiles, turn off the perforation mode and reduce the speed of the chuck. The length of the holes should be 1–3 centimeters greater than the length of the plastic elements of the dowels, otherwise they will not be inserted completely; construction dust will interfere.
Step 4. Secure the side supports. The top edge of all elements must lie on the same line. If for some reason it has shifted, do not be upset. Find the dowel that is not secured correctly and unscrew it. Correct the position of the stop with one dowel; you don’t have to install the second one at all. The loads on the elements are insignificant; one fixation point is sufficient. If there is no doubt, then remove the acrylic bathtub and reinstall the problematic stop.
Step 5. Place the acrylic bathtub in place. It’s impossible to do this alone, call an assistant. The bathtub must first be slightly raised above the stops and rested against the wall, and then slowly lowered. At the same time, make sure that the sides sit in place.
Step 6. Check the position of the legs again, they should all touch the floor. Before final adjustment, you need to loosen the locknut a few turns and lower the plastic part of the leg until it touches the floor. As soon as the load appears, stop increasing the length and firmly fix the position.
It must be remembered that the side stops perform two very important functions: they do not allow the sides to deform and keep the bathtub from moving horizontally. If you do not fix the sides to the wall, then the legs will have to be fixed with dowels to the floor coverings.
Connection to sewerage
We recommend checking for leaks very carefully. To do this, place sheets of paper under the joints, let them stay there for 5-10 minutes, drops of water are clearly visible on them. Don't rush to close off the space under the bathtub. Leaks during operation are difficult to detect, and prolonged exposure of building materials to conditions of high humidity and temperature is fraught with very unpleasant consequences.
Practical advice. You can independently significantly improve the performance of acrylic bathtubs by reducing thermal conductivity. To do this, after installing the siphon with foam, cover the product with foam on the back side. You don’t need much, 5–6 centimeters is enough, and the water in the bathroom will maintain a comfortable temperature for a long time. Before foaming, it is recommended to moisten the bath with a spray bottle - on wet surfaces the foam hardens faster. In addition, the adhesion coefficient of materials increases significantly.
Step 8 Seal the gaps between the tub and the walls with caulk.
We described how to do this correctly in this article above. The algorithm is no different, only a little more care and accuracy will be required, use only high-quality materials. After a few months, cheap ones will begin to peel off a little, the seal is broken and water gets under the bathtub. It is very difficult to remove leaky sealant from an acrylic bathtub without damaging visible surfaces. You will have to increase the width of the new layer and hide problem areas in this way.
That's it installation work finished. But you can’t leave an acrylic bathtub in this state; you need to close the space under it. Decorative screens are used for this; they can be purchased or homemade, made of plastic, fiberboard or masonry building materials. Which option to choose is up to you. Just remember that screens made of masonry materials (bricks or blocks) are considered the most reliable. But making such screens is time-consuming and expensive, and it will require certain skills in performing construction work.
Video - Installation of an acrylic bathtub
An acrylic bathtub is a structure that requires reliable, rigid support, as it has thin, plastic walls. There are several ways to install it, but the most reliable and practical is a metal frame. Sometimes a combined fastening method is used. If the bottom is thin and bends underfoot, the frame is combined with brickwork, supporting the bottom. How to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands is detailed in this article.
Required Tools
At the first stage of installing the structure, you should prepare all the necessary fixtures and tools, namely: 
- hammer drill with a drill of the required cross-section and length - for making holes in the wall;
- screwdriver– for tightening fasteners when assembling the structure; in addition, they can drill holes in the bath itself, if necessary;
- open-end wrench appropriate size - to adjust the height of the legs of the bathroom frame;
- construction corner– carry out inspection of corners;
- roulette;
- building level– to level the structure horizontally;
- pencil or a construction marker - for marking.
It is also worth taking care of additional consumables: sealing tape or plumbing corner– for sealing joints between the wall and the bathroom. But you can also use simple silicone sealant if the walls in the room are perfectly smooth.
Advantages over mounting on legs - which method is better?
Let's start with the fact that all manufacturers of this product recommend using specialized frame-shaped frames during installation, on which acrylic bathtubs are installed.
This design 100% evenly distributes the load on the bowl exerted by water and the weight of a person, preventing breakage and sagging of the body. At the moment, all manufacturers produce serial frames designed for specific models - there are no universal ones.
What is a frame? Herself frame frame- This is a structure made of a square profiled pipe, which is coated with a special powder composition, which prevents its corrosion in a damp room.
The skeleton consists of special stiffening ribs, supports for each corner of the bathtub and legs that can be adjusted by twisting. Despite the fact that high-strength fibers are used in the production of acrylic bathtubs, it is impossible to install the structure reliably without a rigid frame.
Frame advantages:
- uniform distribution of load on the structure;
- the bottom of the bathtub does not “play” under your feet;
- reliable and durable installation;
- when mounted on a frame, fastening to the wall plays a purely symbolic function - so that the bath does not tip over. But such incidents do not happen in practice.
Flaws:
- are expensive;
- complicate installation.
As we see, the advantages of the frame are obvious.
As for the legs, their main advantage is considered to be only their low cost. The design is flimsy and unreliable - two crossbars are attached to the bottom of the bathtub on different sides, and then the legs are screwed to them. It is not difficult to assemble, but you should understand that if the bottom of the bowl is thin, you will have to mount a brick frame underneath it. Otherwise, the weight of an adult can bend it.
The advantages of this design:
- low price;
- ease of installation;
- ease of transportation.
Flaws:
- uneven load distribution, since the bathtub does not rest on anything in front;
- side mounting to the wall is required;
- the need to additionally construct a brick frame under the bottom of the bowl.
As you can see, there are many more disadvantages, besides this, no one will give you a guarantee that such a structure cannot simply tip over if the fastening to the wall turns out to be unreliable.
Choosing the optimal metal frame
There are several types of frames used depending on the quality of the material used to make the acrylic bowl;
- Frame without side supports for heavy-duty bowls. Included with such products there are no side supports, there is only the frame itself and legs. Bathtubs with high quality characteristics are installed on a frame that matches the shape of the bowl. The bottom of the frame is designed in such a way that the load is distributed as evenly as possible. In this case, the sides do not need to be fixed to the wall; they are made of durable acrylic and act as a reinforced upper frame. This type of support should in no case be chosen for cheap models, since their sides are not designed to withstand high loads on their own.
- Rigid design with side supports, which also supports the sides of the bathtub. Despite the fact that such a frame is difficult to install, it is considered the most reliable and versatile at the moment.
- Frames for corner bathtubs with hydromassage, made of square reinforced profile with a high degree of reliability and stability. They are much more expensive, but you don’t have to choose. Hot tubs are heavy and require strong support.
If the frame is not provided in the bathtub, and the manufacturer included only legs in the kit to reduce the cost of the product, it can be purchased separately. The main thing here is to know exactly your font, the most popular ones: 170x70, 160x70, 150x70,140x70 .
It is worth saying that to save money, you can make a frame for an acrylic bathtub yourself, but the work is dirty, labor-intensive and complex.
How to assemble and install correctly - step-by-step instructions
The process of installing an acrylic bathtub is not complicated, and you can easily do it yourself in a few hours, without the involvement of plumbers.
What is included:
- Metal profile with ready-made holes, cut to the required sizes;
- adjustable legs;
- thrust bearings;
- self-tapping screws;
- racks;
- nuts;
- locknuts;
- washers;
- wall stops;
- assembly instructions.
Before installation, you need to check the package contents, and if you find out that something is missing, contact the seller.
How to secure and adjust the legs?
So, all the tools have been collected, the equipment has been checked, you can begin installation:
STEP 1. We unpack the bathtub and place all the components in one place for easy assembly.
STEP 2. We cover the floor with soft rags or cardboard from packaging to avoid it, and carefully turn the bathtub upside down. We put it in the middle of the room so that it can be walked around from any side.
STEP 3. We assemble the bathtub frame according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer: we observe all the indentations and fastening points specified by the manufacturer. You need to put the two longest profile slats on the bottom and screw horizontal strips for the legs to them using bolts.
STEP 4. Assembling the legs. You need to screw plastic stops and washers with nuts onto the studs in the order shown in the picture.
STEP 5. We thread the pins with the free end up into the holes of the short profile.
Use your fingers to tighten the nut so that the distance between the stop and the bathtub body is 1-2 mm.
STEP 6. We screw onto the protruding end of the stud: a washer, 2 nuts, a washer and a leg - in exactly that order. Steps 5 and 6 must be repeated for all other supports.
STEP 7. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we screw the longitudinal profiles to the bottom of the acrylic bowl, checking that all the indentations specified in the instructions are observed.
STEP 8. Adjust the length of all legs and carefully tighten all nuts on the studs using a wrench.
STEP 9. We turn the bathtub over and place it on its feet. By twisting we adjust the height from the floor, it should not be more 65 cm– the most optimal and safe. You can check the horizon using a building level, and if there is a distortion, it should be eliminated.
If you want the water in the bowl not to stagnate, then you can make a small technological slope towards the drain, just half a centimeter is enough. To do this, after installing the structure in its permanent place, slightly raise the edge opposite to the drain by unscrewing the support leg.
Features of mounting a support for a corner and asymmetrical font
The process of installing the frame on a corner bathtub is practically is not different from installing it on a rectangular one, the only difference is that the number of profiles and fasteners varies slightly, it all depends on the specific manufacturer, so it’s worth studying the instructions in detail.
It is worth noting that corner and asymmetrical fonts have a fairly large volume, and the frame for them must be reliable and durable. It is highly undesirable to install such a font only on the legs, even if they are included with the product. Spare no expense and buy a bathtub frame made of profiled pipe.How to attach to the wall?
If your frame provides additional supports for mounting to the wall, you must use the following instructions:
STEP 1. On the underside of the edges on the wall we place marks with a marker.
STEP 2. We remove the structure and, using a building level and a marker, draw a line for the side of the bathtub.
STEP 3. We attach the side supports as shown in the picture and mark the places for drilling.
STEP 4. Using a hammer drill and an 8mm drill (depending on the size of the dowels, but usually 8 is used), we drill holes to the depth specified in the instructions.
STEP 5. We fasten the side supports to the wall using dowels and self-tapping screws.
STEP 6. For a better fastening effect, coat the support areas of the bathtub sides with sealant.
STEP 7. We place the bathtub along with the frame on supports. Press well, fill with water and coat the joint with the wall with sealant or cover it with a corner.
Now you can work on sewerage and screen installation.
Useful video
For information on how to install a bathtub on a frame, watch the video below:
Conclusion
You can install an acrylic bathtub of any configuration on a frame yourself, if you follow all the recommendations of specialists and follow the instructions. But if you don’t have confidence in your abilities, then it’s better to turn to professionals. Remember, the acrylic structure is very fragile and can burst if handled carelessly.
Being able to make something with your own hands boosts self-esteem and allows you to acquire various skills. One of them could be installing an acrylic bathtub. For these purposes, you don’t need to involve specialists, since it has a small mass, which allows you to handle it yourself. There are certain nuances when performing work. They will be discussed in the article.
Choosing a bath
Although cast iron baths do not lose their relevance; most purchases are made for acrylic bathtubs. This is due to certain advantages of this design:
- light weight;
- comparative ease of installation;
- thermal inertness;
- pleasant tactile sensations;
- pleasant appearance;
- long service life;
- sufficient strength;
- ease of maintenance.
If necessary, an acrylic bathtub can be raised to the required floor without much difficulty. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is simpler in the sense that no assistants are required when carrying it. Due to its special structure, the composite material has low thermal conductivity, so stepping into a cold bath is not as uncomfortable as it is for a cast iron or steel structure.
The appearance is snow-white, and the surface itself is smooth. The service life of such a bath can exceed 15 years. No specific detergents are required for care. One of the disadvantages is the fragility of cheap models that do not have reinforcement. It is necessary to monitor temperature conditions design so as not to melt it.
Before you go to the store for your treasured bathroom, you need to make accurate measurements of the space where it will be located. It is necessary to make small gaps that will allow installation, even if the walls have certain irregularities. It is important to get to know the manufacturers who produce high-quality plumbing fixtures.
Don't pay attention to cheap options. An immediate benefit may result in the need to replace the bathtub after a short period of use. You should only pay attention to bathtubs that are reinforced with fiberglass. In this case, the thickness of the wall of the structure must be at least 5 mm.
The cut shows the number of layers of reinforcement. There should be several of them. If there are only two or one of them, then you should not buy such a bathtub. The absence of the required number of reinforcing layers threatens instability to mechanical loads. This applies not only to the user’s weight, but also to temperature changes from hot water.
It would be good to feel the surface of the bathtub you plan to buy. It should be smooth, without any flaws. A pungent odor should alert you; it may mean that harmful additives were used in production. Pure acrylic has no pungent odors. It’s good if the kit includes all the necessary equipment. The manufacturer selects exactly what is best suited for their bathtubs.
Mounting options
Installation of the product can be done in several ways. It is worth choosing the one that best suits specific conditions. Methods can be divided into:
- factory frame;
- legs;
- solid pallet;
- combined method.
As you can see, certain methods will require the delivery of additional building material and consumables that will be needed during installation.
Factory frame
Before releasing a product, the manufacturer makes certain calculations. This applies not only to the bath itself, but also to the support for it. That is why installation on a factory frame can be considered the highest quality and safest method. It is worth saying that only expensive bathtubs have good frames.
For the rest, you will have to use a different method or build your own frame. Usually the product is supplied in original cardboard packaging. It will be needed as a basis. All frame components are checked according to the complete instructions. The box is laid out in a convenient place and the acrylic bathtub is turned over onto it.
Note!
The bathtub has a protective stretch film. You should not remove it until installation is complete.Assembling a factory frame should not cause difficulties, since each element already has holes and a diagram is present. The base is assembled in a separate area. Once this work is completed, you can proceed to fixing the frame to the bathtub. To do this, it must be positioned in the middle. At the bottom of the sides of the bath there are special grooves into which the metal legs from the frame should fit. A long pin is threaded through the hole on the edge of the bathtub frame strip. It must be fixed in the groove that is on the bathtub. The stud is also fixed with a nut and a control nut to the frame itself. To make the contact surface with the floor larger, a plastic leg is screwed onto the bottom of the stud.
In addition to long side legs, there can be short ones that are mounted under the bottom. They must be placed in appropriate places in the frame and secured with nuts. After this, the bath is turned over and installed in its place. A bubble level is placed on the side and the height of the legs is adjusted. The latter will also depend on what decorative screen is used.
When the position is adjusted, you need to turn the bath over again and assemble the siphon. If this is a complete element, then installing it on the bathtub will not cause any particular difficulties. Otherwise, you will have to buy the most suitable one separately. When screwing in the bolts, it is important not to overdo it so as not to damage the siphon and bathtub.
The siphon consists of two parts. One of them is designed to collect water from the main drain hole, and the second is mounted on the overflow hole. They are usually connected to each other using a plastic adapter. A flexible hose goes to the overflow hole, so the entire structure must be assembled before installation. A sealing rubber is installed on the elements for the holes in a special groove, and the same is placed in the bathroom. Metal plates are mounted on top to cover the holes.
Since acrylic bathtubs are lightweight and quite easy to tip over, manufacturers provide additional fastening of the frame to the wall using hooks. Therefore, after assembling the frame and adjusting the position of the bathtub, it is necessary to mark the wall and use a hammer drill to install the hooks in their place. The edge of the bathtub is placed on supporting elements to prevent it from tipping over. After this, the siphon can be connected with a flexible hose to the sewer hole.
The final step when installing a bathtub on a factory frame is the installation of a decorative screen. The factory version is most often made of plastic. The screen is fixed to the bathtub using special clips, which are also included in the kit. The clips are secured in place and the screen simply snaps onto them.
Before fixing the screen to the bathtub, it is necessary to connect the drain hose to the sewer hole. You can clearly see the process of installing an acrylic bathtub in the video below.
Brick pallet
This installation method can be used in cases where there is a need to provide more reliable fixation than with a factory frame. In addition, some customers choose to finish the screen with tiles, which is ideal in the case of a brick base. The first step is to try on the structure in place where the bathtub will be located. This is done to mark the drain hole. It is simply outlined with a marker. It is also worth tracing the outline of the bathroom to make it easier to navigate when laying out the brick.
Next, the support is laid under the bottom of the bath. Brick is also used for these purposes. It is necessary to select the height so that the highest point of the side does not exceed the distance to the floor of 60 cm. The bricks are laid on cement-sand mortar. The platform is laid taking into account the horizontal level. If the bathtub is installed directly on a brick, it can be easily damaged by pushing through uneven surfaces. To prevent this from happening, you will need a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 10 mm. The plywood is attached to the bricks using an even layer of foam. The side walls are laid out taking into account the height of the bath. Cuttings of moisture-resistant plywood are also mounted on them using foam.
Now you need to fill the bathtub with water to position it correctly. To do this, the drain hole is tightly closed. A level is placed on the side and the bath is leveled in a horizontal plane. This must be done before the foam polymerizes. Variations can be leveled using wooden supports. Later, the foam will fill the resulting voids. Once the foam has set, the bath can be removed. To help the bathtub stay in place better, some craftsmen make a groove in the wall, where one edge is recessed. The groove is made with a hammer drill and a chisel. It is easier to mark its boundaries with a grinder.
Note!
The final stage of installation is assembling the siphon and installing the bathtub in place, after which the screen is mounted.Supports
Bath supports can be made from brick or carved from wood. Both methods are acceptable for acrylic bathtubs. If the stands are made of wood, then it is better to use larch wood, it is resistant to moisture. Additionally, it must be treated with yacht varnish. Depending on the length of the bathtub, you may need three supports instead of two at the edges. The bathtub is tried on in its place and the approximate location of the supports is marked. It must be installed before the bend on the bathtub. This will make it easier to fix the bathtub.
The cement mortar is prepared and the bricks are laid out level in their place. The front support usually has a lower height than the rear support. This is due to the need to provide a level difference for liquid drainage from the bath. The difference in the height of the bath supports is 2 cm, but may vary for different models. After the bath supports are laid out, they must be given time to gain strength. To make it easier to install the bathtub on the supports, you need to make a semicircular cut with a grinder. Its radius must be equal to the radius of the bath. The bathtub is placed in place and the final adjustment is made.
To prevent the structure from lying on bare brick, a plywood lining is made under the bathtub. It is fixed to the brick with foam. The latter is also used to eliminate the gaps that remain between the supports and the plane of the bathtub. A siphon is installed in place and connected to the sewer.
Combined method
In some cases, a combined method of installing a bathtub is used. It consists not only in using a factory frame for the bathtub, but also brick supports in the form of a frame around the perimeter. This method will be useful in cases where there is no desire to lay out the stand inside the brick frame. In this case, the factory frame is assembled, aligned and installed in place of the bathtub. After this, markings are made for the brick and masonry is carried out. When everything is ready, the bathtub is placed in its place and tiling is done.