Recently, wooden houses have been widely entering the individual construction market. Wood has always been practical and environmentally friendly pure material. Elements of modern wooden houses fit tightly to each other, creating a barrier to wind, water and cold, and most importantly - unique comfort and coziness.
The main processes occurring in wooden house, both during its construction and in the first years of its operation, this is shrinkage and movement.
Shrinkage of a log house is a decrease in the height of the log house. Shrinkage is associated with many factors, the main of which are: drying of wood to operating humidity, natural deflections of wood, closing gaps, compression of seals (tow, etc.), processing errors. The main shrinkage occurs during the first warm season.
The movement of the log house occurs mainly when heating begins to function in the house. Uneven drying of the log house elements outside and inside the room occurs, as a result of which the log beams shrink unevenly across the width, will slightly shift one relative to the other, and the window openings will be deformed in the vertical plane. Also, movement occurs due to uneven drying of the log house elements on the sunny and shady sides.
These phenomena actively occur during the first 4 years after the construction of the structure. When walls shrink in houses made of logs and timber, windows and doors can be damaged. Or they will warp and jam. To preserve their original appearance and functionality, giving the window and door opening rigidity and strength, casings are installed.
The casing separates the window opening and the window from the wall of the house and makes them independent. As a result, the settlement of the wall does not affect the window in any way, thereby the casing protects the window from deformation and destruction. In addition to protection from deformation during shrinkage of the log house, the casing also serves as a fastener designed to prevent logs from falling out of the walls under their own weight (squeezing out).
The casing box or the so-called casing is a prefabricated structure consisting of two horizontal and two vertical elements - racks and crossbars. Simply put, this is a wooden frame assembled from thick, well-dried boards (humidity no more than 10-12%). The width of the frame is calculated based on the thickness of the frame plus installation gaps. The height of the frame is equal to the height of the window or door plus the expected shrinkage size.
CASING BOX MANUFACTURING OPTIONS
CASING WITH EMBODIED BEAM
A block with a square cross-section of five by five centimeters is placed in the groove. Fixation by means of fasteners is not used. The length indicators are not less than the height indicators. The main thing is that the block is not placed against the crowns at the top during the seating process.
The block performs the function of an element that guides and provides the ability to freely seat each crown in a vertical manner, excluding horizontal movements. In addition, slopes are attached. They are attached to the bars using several self-tapping screws that go into the volume of the bar, but do not go through the bar. Then the roll insulation is laid between the slopes and ends.
And if we compare it with the option of finishing slopes into a deck, then this time the slopes are made in advance and mounted ready-made in the opening. The thickness indicators also turn out to be smaller compared to the design of slopes in a deck without a groove.
And after installing the slopes, a window is installed in an ordinary opening. The frame is fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws, and the gaps left between the window frame and the slopes must be filled with foam for installation. The use of foam between slopes and opening ends is unacceptable. And the final stage of installation is the installation of several platbands from the inside and outside. Platbands help close the gaps between the slopes and the frame itself.
OBSADING INTO THE DECK
The casing is made of laminated veneer lumber coniferous species chamber drying, planed, profiled with a groove for installation in a tenon opening.
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To avoid curvature of the wall and to prevent freezing with this casing option, the beam of the posts is increased to a thickness of 90 mm. If the opening height is more than 2.4 m, the thickness of the timber may be greater. The width of this type of casing is limited to 280mm. When preparing the opening and making the casing “into the deck,” a tenon (ridge) is cut in the center of the vertical ends of the frame. Through the sealing material, the “deck” posts are inserted into the tenon of the log house. A “top” is installed on top “in a spacer” and secured with screws to the uprights of the casing.
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The casing box can be made with a lower casing board or a window sill (have a closed loop around the perimeter). After installing a window or door, the slopes may need to be finished. The cost of this casing is determined individually depending on the thickness of the wall and the size of the opening.
FINISHING CASING
The casing is made of chamber-dried laminated coniferous timber, polished and profiled, with an outer quarter for window installation. After installation in such a casing, finishing of the slopes is not required.
This casing can be used to install canvases interior doors without a "door frame". When preparing the opening and making the “finishing” casing, a groove or ridge is cut in the center of the vertical ends of the frame (determined depending on the type of structure, size and other features of the opening by the surveyor). Through the sealing material, the posts are inserted into the groove or tenon of the log house. A “top” is installed on top “in the spacer” and fastened with screws to the uprights of the casing. The casing box can be made with a threshold or window sill (it has a closed contour around the perimeter). The cost of this casing is determined individually depending on the thickness of the wall and the size of the opening. This casing option will save money on finishing slopes after installing windows or doors.
The casing is a necessary and mandatory element of a window opening in a wooden house. Ignoring it leads to critical changes, including its destruction.
Preparing an opening for window installation is a complex process that can only be done by professionals who have experience in performing such work. After all, incorrect calculations, poor-quality manufacturing and inept installation will definitely lead to damage to the window block and inevitable deformation of the window opening and the wall itself. If you need wooden casing for wooden windows Vacation home, then you need to contact the specialists of our company by phone +7 977 856 40 90
, and we will prepare the most optimal offer for you. To order a wooden casing box casing in Moscow and the Moscow region inexpensively, send a request by e-mail
Correct installation of windows in a wooden house is impossible without installing a casing. The article introduces the causes and consequences of natural shrinkage wooden house and the purpose of the window frames. The information offered gives a general idea of the design of the casing and the features of its main varieties - casings with a embedded bar, in a tenon and in a deck.
Casing of window openings in a log wall
About the specifics of wooden houses
After construction, all wooden houses go through a stage that is typical only for such buildings - shrinkage. Wood like natural material, loses moisture, causing the geometry of the building to change. If this specificity is not taken into account, the structure will inevitably begin to deform: there will be a distortion in the windows and doors, and cracks will appear in the floor and walls.
In different buildings, shrinkage occurs differently; its magnitude is influenced by several factors - the type of wood, its humidity, the size of the house, construction time (buildings built in winter have the smallest shrinkage). Log walls are characterized by maximum shrinkage, up to 10 cm on a wall 3 m high. Houses built from laminated veneer lumber boast minimal changes in size (up to 2 cm); their finishing is permitted after completion of construction.
Installation of casing in a log house
The most active shrinkage is observed in the first three months after the construction of the walls; another two to three years pass before the process is completed. Before laying finished floors, installing windows and doors, or starting interior decoration, a break in construction is taken for at least six months (often a year). The installation of windows in no wooden house is complete without an important component of the window opening - the frame.
In a wooden house, openings for windows are cut out of a solid wall. After cutting, the edges of the openings will begin to shift without treatment, which cannot be allowed. This can only be prevented by a casing (casing, false box, flashing), a technology proven over centuries. A window frame is a box that is installed in a window (or door) opening and is a mandatory element for wooden buildings.
Window frame of complex shape
Why do you need a casing?
A correctly made frame frame secures the window opening, leaving a compensation gap in the upper part. This technique takes into account further shrinkage of the wall, protecting against its consequences. If space is not provided above the window, the weight of the upper crowns will fall on the casing. At the same time, the crowns of the middle part will begin to sag unhindered, forming through cracks.
To ensure that your house does not lose heat in winter, and you do not overpay for heating, you must be responsible in selecting a team of carpenters and installers. A window and door frame installed according to the rules struggles with several problems:
Prevents the formation of cracks in crowns.
Maintains wall geometry and interwindow walls.
Protects the integrity of the glass unit. If there is no expansion gap, you will have to adjust frequently window fittings; this will lead to deformation of the glass unit and accelerate the failure of the fittings.
Thus, a good casing box has two main purposes:
Strengthens wall structures, weakened by cutting window openings.
Protects window units during the shrinkage process.
One of the ways to install a window in a wooden house
Casing box design
Performing casing is an important stage in the construction of a wooden house (both a log house and a structure made of profiled or laminated timber), affecting the integrity of the walls and the safety of very expensive window structures. If the builders ignored the intricacies of working with wood and mistakes were made during installation (the frame is missing or done carelessly), you will know about it by the following signs:
There is a skew window (or door) block.
Window (door) closes with difficulty or not completely.
With time new cracks appear.
Correct installation of the casing of window openings protects the window structure from deformation, guarantees a tight fit of the sashes and trouble-free operation of the fittings. The casing is characterized by several features:
Consists of of four elements: tops (top), two sidewalls (racks, carriages), window sill boards (window sill).
Used to make a pigtail lumber(boards, timber) with humidity 10-12%.
When trimming window and door openings in a wooden house, dimensions(width) are selected depending on wall thickness. Violation of this rule leads to the appearance of cracks.
Schematic diagram of the pigtail
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing windows and doors. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Window frames in a wooden house: types and their features
There are three main types of casing. They have their own advantages and disadvantages, differ in appearance and price, and are mounted using various technologies. The pigtail is selected based on its properties and construction characteristics:
Jigsaw with embedded block. The most economical method for which an edged board is used. Grooves are cut in the vertical openings in which square bars are installed (laid). Finishing boards are attached on top of the bars, the position of which is now independent of the shrinkage of the walls. The method is characterized by speed of execution, which, together with low cost, makes it quite popular. It has one drawback - after installing the window frame, additional finishing of the slopes will be required.
Types of casing
Pit in thorn(T-shape). Grooves are cut in the side openings, and vertically located tenons are cut in the side elements, which is why the parts acquire a T-shaped cross-section. The box is fixed only by the tongue and groove system; Soft insulation is used to fill gaps. Tenon casing of windows in a wooden house is most often used in the construction of buildings made of corrugated timber. The method is more difficult to implement, but is characterized by durability and better distributes the load from wall shrinkage.
Pit in the deck(U-shaped). Not grooves are cut into the side walls, as in the previous method, but tenons. Grooves corresponding in size to the tenon are cut out in the vertical parts of the casing, making their profile look like the letter “P”; the casing is fixed with protruding spikes. This classic version installation, suitable for both walls made of rounded logs and laminated veneer lumber. The U-shaped pigtail will cost a little more than the previous options.
Video description
About the need for casing in the following video:
In addition to the three main ones, there are other types of casing structures used in certain conditions:
Finishing casing. For its manufacture, glued laminated timber is used; a mandatory component of the design is a quarter under the window (protrusion in the window opening). Unlike classical methods, the box turns out to be more neat and attractive; no further finishing work is required. An additional plus is that the glued material does not rot or warp, and it resists high loads and low temperatures. The disadvantages include higher labor intensity and cost.
Power. This box has a complex structure and a specific scope of application. A reinforced casing is used if they want to properly strengthen the window frame - when installing panoramic and arched windows (both wooden and plastic), and balcony doors.
Power version of the casing
Arched. A decorative variety of other casing boxes, more labor-intensive due to its atypical shape. It is better to entrust the manufacture of an arched window and frames to it to a specialized organization - you will need knowledge of technology that allows you to bend wooden elements (exposure to hot steam), and then make arched frames.
Combined. A clean version of the casing that does not require further finishing. It is made from two types of wood - solid wood and laminated veneer lumber. Inexpensive types of wood are used for the base, and more valuable ones for external elements. This combination allows you to get a casing box that is attractive in appearance and of good quality with a good price/quality ratio.
Eurosurface. This is the name for a set of finishing sockets, made to order (turnkey) by a construction organization. Euro casing can have any configuration; its parts are fixed with locking connections; standard fasteners (screws, nails) are not needed. This type is most often used when arranging door frames.
Video description
About the installation of casing and windows in the following video:
Differences between frames for wooden and PVC windows
For wooden windows, all types of frames are used, including draft frames; the design has the following features:
When making pigtails, we use metal fasteners(nails and screws).
It is advisable to choose same type of wood, which went on the walls of the building.
Rough casing does not need additional finishing slopes.
Natural materials are preferred for insulation(jute or linen inter-crown insulation); they better tolerate shrinkage and periodic changes in wall parameters.
For the installation of plastic (PVC) windows, only two types of casing are applicable - finishing and power. The materials and technologies used in both cases are practically the same:
The side posts and top are made of timber, dimensions whom depend on the thickness of the walls Houses.
All wooden elements soaked in antiseptic, preventing the appearance of mold.
Installing frames, cutting grooves
For insulation choose mineral wool or natural insulation(linen or jute).
To prevent condensation from forming in the cracks between the walls and casing, vapor and waterproofing is required(waterproofing membrane recommended).
Window trim: important nuances
There are some subtleties in the installation of the casing that cannot be ignored:
Suitable for casing construction in log houses wood with a moisture content of 10-12%. Material with higher humidity will also experience shrinkage and deformation. Drier wood may not withstand shrinkage loads and may crack.
It is recommended to choose proven casing construction technologies. Replacing a high-quality frame with an edged board or timber will lead to deformation of your windows and reduce (sometimes significantly) their service life.
Platbands perform a decorative and protective function
If within the walls frame house wood is used, which means the structure will be subject to shrinkage and temperature fluctuations (albeit in minimal dimensions). Windows casing boxes will be needed.
Sealing of window frames provided with natural insulation. Do not fill the cracks with polyurethane foam - the rigid adhesion of the casing and the wall will prevent the wall structure from shrinking correctly.
Casing cost depends on the quality of the lumber, the type of frame chosen, the size of the windows and the experience of the carpenters. There is no need to buy a ready-made box in advance - it is much more profitable and easier to make it according to individual sizes.
High-quality lining of window openings eliminates many problems
Conclusion
Installing window frames is an important stage of construction that should not be neglected. During shrinkage, stress from the wall structure is transferred to the casing. In order for the window frame to protect the window from deformation and ensure its comfortable use, the work should be entrusted to a specialized construction organization engaged in glazing wooden houses. A specialist with extensive practical experience will be able to assess the features of the building (the amount of shrinkage, unevenness of the walls) and carry out high-quality measurements, and then installation.
When constructing a country house, especially close attention should be given to such critical elements of wooden structures as window and door frames. And this is due to the well-known seasonal phenomenon called “shrinkage”, which necessarily manifests itself during their operation. When preparing window and door openings, you should always keep this in mind and take care in advance to ensure that possible shrinkage does not lead to unpleasant consequences, namely, deformation of these structures.
To eliminate possible deformation of window and door openings, the latter are placed in a special frame called a frame (or casing). Thus, a frame in a wooden house will allow you to protect the frames of the building from its natural shrinkage.
Structurally, the casing in a wooden house consists of 3 components:
- side racks (sidewalls);
- the so-called “topper”;
- window sill board (for windows) and threshold - for doorways.
There are several known ways to make a pigtail, each of which will be discussed in more detail in the next section.
Methods for making casing boxes
Among the known methods for manufacturing casing boxes, the methods described below are most often used.
"Into the embedded block"
Such a frame is a structure consisting of a block with a cross-section of 50×50 cm and an edged board of 50×150 mm or more (depending on the size of the logs). The mortgage or guide bar is attached to the sides of the structure in such a way that the crowns of the log house can freely move along it as if along a guide (if there are appropriate grooves in them).
The widespread use of this method can be explained by its low cost and ease of implementation.
The thorn monolith
This method involves making casings for window and door openings from a solid rectangular beam that has a “T” shaped profile in cross-section (with a spike in the middle).
When assembling the walls, the logs placed in the frame are “strung” with their grooves onto this tenon and, during subsequent shrinkage, the structure can move freely along it. In this case, you can use a regular one as a top (upper jumper) edged board about 50 mm thick.
To the deck
With this design option, even before installing the box, vertical ridges are formed at the ends of the wall logs, and a groove is made in the side posts-beams of the frame according to the size of the tenon. When assembling the box, first of all, the lower window sill board is mounted (it is also called a threshold), after which the side posts of the frame, lined with a roll seal of one type or another, are inserted into the tenons.
The upper part of the prefabricated box (“top”) plays the role of a spacer for its side posts; in this case, a small gap is left between it and the upper crown of the frame, used as a shrinkage gap. This gap must be filled with the type of sealing material you choose. At the final stage of designing window openings, slopes and platbands are installed on them, covering the areas adjacent to the ends of the frame.
Main assembly steps
All operations for the production of pigtails are strictly regulated and are usually performed in the following order:
- preparation (marking and cutting) of the corresponding opening;
- its design to match the casing option you have chosen;
- installation of the casing itself;
- installation of a window or door block in it.
When preparing the seat, it is necessary to clarify its dimensions, taking into account the distance to the floor level. For windows, in particular, it should be about 80–90 cm. After this, the opening is marked with the obligatory use of the simplest tools for checking - a plumb line and a level.
The dimensions of the opening should be approximately 40–60 mm larger than the dimensions of the window structure, which is due to the need to leave shrinkage (compensation) gaps.
Depending on the manufacturing technology you choose, the work on designing the opening for the frame includes preparing a groove or ridge in it. The installation of the casing is also carried out taking into account the characteristics of the selected type of casing technology, that is, in compliance with all the rules and assembly procedures for this structure. At the final stage of the work, the window or door block is directly installed in the prepared casing.
When making a pigtail with your own hands, you should always remember that its use is justified only when the age of the house does not exceed 10 years. For long periods of time, the use of these technologies is not necessary, since the structure has already completely exhausted its shrinkage resource.
Video
This video shows how to make a casing on a plastic window in a log house:
With age, you begin to take the age-old traditions and technologies of wooden house construction more seriously, so when installing windows in the bathhouse, we decided to use the almost classic technology of using casing boxes. We’ll tell you why below; believe me, this clause is very important.
Unfortunately, in the main house (about a series of articles), due to a lack of experience and finances at that time, we decided to simplify the technology and install windows without casing. In general, after some rationalizations, it also turned out to be more or less reliable and warm (read more about installing windows in the house), but in the bathhouse, especially with a large window in the relaxation room, we decided not to tempt fate.
The washing room window is completely finished; of course, with such platbands, the bathhouse looks completely different. But the most important thing is hidden inside the modern casing. For carving lovers, we recommend taking a look at a more advanced option for finishing trims using two-level carvings. This is how the bathhouse was finished, built according to almost a similar design (but on 2 floors). Very interesting, we recommend you take a look...
At the intersection of old and new...
With the problem of windows and casing, we again, out of old memory, turned to Denis Migachev (general director of Rus' Log). He said that the company is now introducing a new and effective technology for creating casing boxes, which the carpenters have received the beautiful name Dew Point. I remembered what the previous classic casing box looked like (below is a photo of it) - in it, a double-glazed window (plastic or wooden) was inserted into the box from the outside (i.e. from the street side).
An example of casings made using previous technology. Please note that the recess for the window here is made from the outside (on the other side of the inner window sill). In this case, the window is not so insulated and condensation often forms at the junction of the window and the frame in winter (this is the so-called dew point), which then accumulates on the wooden window sill. In the new design, the dew point is located inside the structure, so condensation on the windows occurs to a much lesser extent.
What has changed, I asked Denis. He explained that now the double-glazed window is closed with a wooden strip, both from the outside and from the inside. Due to this, a reliable thermal lock is obtained, which hides the notorious dew point in its depths. What does this give? What’s more, condensation will no longer form on the inside of your windows and flow down, collecting on the windowsill.
It’s better to see once than to hear a hundred times, I decided and went to the master carpenters. Sergei, the head of the carpentry shop, showed what the new, improved casing design is. Of course, he said, if you wish, we can make you a classic design, but we recommend you a slightly more expensive, but more reliable design under the sonorous name Dew Point.
I’m used to trusting professionals, especially those recommended by Denis, so a little later I measured and handed over to Sergey all the dimensions of the window openings in the bathhouse and began to wait.
The window in the living room is divided into 3 parts, the side sashes open. The casing and platbands look very solid. By the way, one more remark about the phrase Don’t have 100 rubles.... At Sergei’s request, I also had to give him the thickness of the walls in the bathhouse, so that the thickness of the casing would exactly match it. There are 4 windows in the log house, everything is clear with three, but what to do with the steam room?
Firstly, as window experts explained to me, it is not recommended to install metal-plastic double-glazed windows in the steam room. High temperatures have a negative effect on plastic and rubber seals, and it is also unclear what gases will be released during such heating. We left ordering the window for the steam room for later (Sergey and his craftsmen will also do it).
Looking ahead a little, we’ll show you what the windows in the living room looked like after installation. roller blinds- rollites. About this in detail. Secondly, what to do with the thickness of the box. In a situation where we measure openings with an accuracy of a millimeter, it was at least unreasonable to guess from the coffee grounds what the thickness of the wall in the steam room would be. For those who are not in the know, I’ll explain. The steam room will later be sheathed from the inside, first with vertical bars (isolated on slides from the walls, because the log house will sit down, but the steam room sheathing boards will not), then with horizontal guide bars, and only then vertically with linden clapboard. Looking at the round logs of the wall, I tried to understand how the cladding described above would work in the future. It turned out to be a tram stop, plus or minus.
As always, I called Denis to consult with him about the design of the steam room lining. He told me, don’t worry, but order the fourth box later, when the lining of the steam room is completed. And sure enough, I thought I was suffering. Therefore, in the photo you can see 4 sets of platbands and only three casing boxes themselves.
Design features of the casing and platbands.
The long-awaited moment of casing readiness has arrived. Initially, we wanted to transport the casings in our car, but then I realized that I couldn’t fit a two-meter box into my room; I didn’t want to have fun with a roof rack. Without any problems, Sergey arranged for me to deliver the Gazelle at a very reasonable price.
What the casing box and the 4 slats that complement it look like is shown in the photo (in the inset there is a casing without slats). Please note that three planks are painted in the color of the interior walls, and another one (see No. 1) is yellow outer wall- this is how we intended it, we will tell you why in the text. Let's get acquainted with our miracle design. Looking ahead a little, I’ll give you a photo of already painted casings, don’t be surprised. So, the window frame design consists of three blocks:
- directly to the casing with 4 locking bars (photo above),
- finished external casing,
- internal casing, consisting of two elements (lower strip and U-shaped upper part).
The design of the casing box itself and the procedure for attaching the strips that lock the double-glazed windows are shown in the previous and subsequent photos. Two words about coloring. Traditionally, we did not make contrasting colors of the platbands and frames (although this looks very impressive), so the platbands on the outside will be painted in the color of the outer walls (yellow), and the platbands on the inside will be painted in the color of the inner walls (almost transparent). Okay, but what to do with painting the box, because it will be visible both from the outside and a little (in the form of a window sill) from the inside.
I didn’t bother with painting the box in two colors and decided that the varnish for exterior use is more durable, so it would only be a plus if the window sill was painted in the exterior yellow color. That is why the outer casing, the box itself and one bottom strip are painted yellow, and 3 more strips and the inner casing are transparent white.
The planks have not only different colors, but also thickness. But this collage shows fragments of the main components of the box, including the principle of fastening the box itself (inset on the left). The photographs above, I hope, show quite clearly the relative position of the slats on the box. And in the next photo you can clearly see the texture of the pine and, in general, the beauty of the outer casing. By the way, you don’t have to order the platbands themselves, but order only the boxes - this is a required functionality.
External and internal trims can be purchased in blanks at hardware stores, cut and installed yourself. It will, of course, be a little cheaper, but you will lose in beauty, and most importantly, you will need to hire a carpenter who will cut and attach all the platbands on the spot. This also costs money, so now we will have to do this to complete the finishing of the windows in the house.
Therefore, after very little hesitation, we ordered not only boxes, but also platbands. Of course, they look completely different than the ones we installed in the house a few years ago. The most important thing is that I didn’t have to involve anyone to install the boxes and trims - I calmly installed everything myself. This is also a saving, and for us it’s more of a time saver. Although, if you don’t want to bother with this, you can ask the carpenters of Rus' to do it...
This is how solid the external trim looks before painting (after all, the thickness of the board is 30 mm). What painted interior trim looks like awaiting installation is shown in the following photo.
And these are the elements of the internal trim - after painting. It's just that the color of the varnish is almost transparent. The platbands consist of two parts (on the left - three lower strips) on the right - four upper parts of the platbands. To make their design more clear, here is a photo of an already installed window. As you can see, the upper U-shaped part of the platband is attached above the window sill (by the way, it is very convenient when screwing it with self-tapping screws), and the lower strip closes the gap under the window sill. I recommend using white (galvanized) or yellow self-tapping screws - they will perform better in the future with high humidity, which is inherent in a bathhouse.
Looking ahead a little, we’ll show you what the assembled internal trim looks like. The dyeing process...
You can order boxes and trims to be painted by Sergei’s craftsmen, or you can do it yourself. Since we had an electric spray gun (see photo below), we decided to do it ourselves. The only rainy weather made our task a little more difficult, but overall everything turned out fine. How to paint wood (use of primer, number of layers, etc.) is described in our articles on painting a bathhouse and a house (see and). The photo below shows the beginning of the process of painting the boxes and external trim.
After thinking for a long time about how to arrange it before painting, we decided to lay everything out on films on the ground. In the foreground is a spray gun. Let's take another close-up look at the main assembly of our box, and at the same time admire the natural beauty of pine wood.
The key lower assembly of the casing box is truly a new word in casing, since this design creates a more reliable thermal lock. The carpenters called their design the dew point. Finally, our trims and boxes are ready, we put them in the bathhouse for now, away from the rain.
External trim after painting Sudden drama and its resolution...
I cannot help but mention one truly dramatic situation. I believe that my other colleagues, developers of log houses, may also get into it. During the process of making the log house, it was difficult for us to predict which windows and which trim we would install. Therefore, it is traditional to frame windows, i.e. their cutting was done to a distance of 10 cm of the flat part. When we delivered the casings, painted and installed the boxes themselves, and began trying on the external and internal platbands, tears almost flowed from my eyes. The platbands simply did not fit into the existing spaces.
What to do? I have already started trying out how much I need to cut off from the ends of the trim so that they fit into the openings. But at the same time, of course, there was no longer any talk about the beauty of the design. The mood, of course, completely deteriorated. It was already past midnight, we decided that the morning was wiser than the evening and went to bed.
Morning came and the most effective solution was to call the same Denis - our good wizard. After listening to the situation, he was categorically against damaging the platbands. We agreed that he would send a carpenter who would widen the edges in the openings to the required dimensions. That's what we did. How it looked is shown in the following photos, on the left - the frame is expanded, on the right - the same place after painting. Over time, the color will be almost the same.
This is how the problem that arose with increasing the tightness of the window frames was solved. I am grateful to the support of the Rus Log company, because initially I had a desire to saw off the excess parts of the platbands, which would have killed their beauty. On the left are the results of additional trimming, on the right is the same window, but after painting. The openings in the remaining windows would be expanded in the same way. Therefore, no matter how hopeless the situation may seem, I recommend not to hang your nose, but to turn to professionals, because many issues have already been resolved by someone a long time ago, you just need to know this solution. They have helped us more than once.
Results of a similar procedure on two more window openings. Interesting is the following photo with a view from the street to the rest room. You can see how big (and heavy) the window is to be installed. We did not risk installing it without casing. This photo shows two more interesting points. Firstly, these are packs of Paroc mineral wool, left over after insulating the roof of a house and a bathhouse (you should always take it with a small reserve). We will use this high-quality Finnish wool to insulate window casings. Secondly, our beautiful brick sauna stove, its construction was described.
Well, the largest window is into the relaxation room of the bathhouse. Pay attention to the bales with Paroc mineral wool - this is what we will use to insulate the gaps between the casing and the log house. I also had to slightly trim the internal window frames; the photo below shows the result of the carpenter’s work. By the way, this result was obtained by masterly work with a chainsaw and subsequent grinding with a grinder.
In the same photo, attention is focused on the fairly large gap for the shrinkage of the log house; its dimensions are described in the commentary to the photo.
The inside also had to be trimmed a little to accommodate our beautiful trims. Pay attention to the fairly large gap between the top of the box and the frame. Our log house has already settled a little, so we set aside 4-5% for shrinkage. In a new frame, it is better to leave 7% of the window height. Another installed box is in the washing room. The places where the cuts are also visible.
A little about the process of installing the casings themselves in the log house openings.
A few words about installing casing boxes in the window openings of a log house. In principle, this is not a very complicated procedure; having little experience, I carried it out myself. The main thing here is to use a system of linings to level the window in all directions. Next, you need to fasten the casing using powerful self-tapping screws on the side (Attention!) specifically to the cranial bars, and from below - into the log of the opening itself. By the way, I can tell you from experience that it is better to place shims on the sides so that the self-tapping screw does not pull the skull block out of its groove.
In the future, when all the gaps are insulated, it is advisable to remove or replace the linings with shorter ones so that they do not become a cold bridge.
What the installed but not yet insulated boxes looked like is shown in this photo. At the top you can see places for additional bracing, although already varnished. Installing double-glazed windows - hiding the dew point.
The windows have finally arrived. We also ordered windows through specialists recommended by Denis. Installing windows in a wooden house or bathhouse is a bit of an art and differs significantly from installation, for example, in brick house. By the way, the price was quite affordable, considering the quality of the profile. As in the house, we decided to go with Rehau Brilliant windows; this is the warmest profile from Rehau, plus it is the only one manufactured in Germany. But this time, on the advice of the installer, we decided to use a thicker double-glazed window (40 mm) with energy-saving glass.
Finally, our boxes have windows, complemented by a metal shimmer and mosquito net. Traditionally, we installed Rehau Brilliant windows, but this time with thicker (40 mm) double-glazed windows and energy-saving film. For simplified installation of double-glazed windows, a gap of 7 mm is provided on each side between the window frame and the casing. Initially, the window is installed on plastic stands, leveled in all directions, and fixed in the box with self-tapping screws. Next, the supports are removed, and the gaps between the window and the casing are filled with foam.
To make work easier, the installer temporarily removed glass from non-openable sashes from the double-glazed windows (see sidebar in the photo below).
After the foam has dried, its remains are cut off, and it’s time to install the 4 locking strips shown above along the perimeter of the window. The result is a reliable and warm structure with a hidden dew point. The planks can be attached to finishing nails or to small self-tapping screws, the heads of which can be hidden with plastic plugs. We just used yellow screws.
Washroom window on a larger scale. Due to the fact that the sills are usually attached not to the window itself, but to a special bottom strip (as was done in the house), here we had to slightly modify the fastening design mosquito nets and drainage from the window structure. Insulation of gaps - what and how. Introduced know-how.
The time has come to insulate the gaps between the bathhouse frame and the casing. Very important! Do not insulate with polyurethane foam under any circumstances - especially a new log house. Unfortunately, many programs show this erroneous approach. Foam can only be used to insulate the bottom gap. For the side and top gaps, you need to use mineral wool, flax jute and other soft materials. The following photo shows the result of such insulation.
We insulated the vertical and upper gaps as required - with soft mineral wool, which allows the frame to sit quietly without causing deformation of the window and frame. But below... Look at the large and uneven gap between the casing and the bottom log (pictured below). Mineral wool It won’t help here - sooner or later it will sag and a gap will form through which it will blow. There is nothing to do - we use polyurethane foam. But, the polyurethane foam should remain relatively soft even after drying.
... but from below - the semicircular surface of the log forced us to use polyurethane foam, albeit quite soft and with a low coefficient. extensions. This structural unit is motionless, so this approach with a lower gap is acceptable. Already having quite a lot of experience in building a house and a bathhouse, I risked making two improvements to the technology of insulating casing boxes. Nevertheless, this gag has a right to exist and clearly will not worsen the situation.
The first improvement is to staple a strip of waterproofing membrane (it is used when installing a roof or insulating floors and ceilings). The membrane will allow water to be removed in the form of steam from the insulation, but will not allow water and steam to penetrate there. In addition, if the mineral wool suddenly shrinks (this happens, because a log house is a living organism, it constantly moves up and down in height), then this membrane will prevent blowing through this gap.
Apart from foam, we have brought to the classic technology of installing windows in wooden casings two additions. The first is associated with the use of a special membrane to protect the upper gap above the frame on the outer and inner sides of the window. The second know-how is associated with the use of extruded polyethylene bundles, which we used together with sealant to insulate the walls of the house (you can read about this by clicking on the link below), plus we used this bundle together with the sealant when insulating windows in the house (let me remind you - there they are without casings).
Shrinkage of mineral wool can (and actually does) occur in vertical gaps, so to ensure airtightness, we decided to block these gaps from the inside with strands. These bundles do not prevent the shrinkage of the log house, but they protect the insulation well from moisture and wind.
The second addition, brought in from the experience of sealing a house (more about this), is the use of extruded polyethylene strands to completely close vertical gaps. The following photo shows both of our improvements.
Both of our know-hows are visible in this photo. The final touch is to fill the lower gaps with polyurethane foam. The photo below shows the most problematic place - in the washing room.
Window to the washing room, covered with polyurethane foam. Attention! It is strictly forbidden to cover vertical gaps and the gap at the top with foam, especially in a new log house! The gap under the window in the vestibule turned out to be only a few millimeters thick and I realized that I had made a small mistake. It was necessary to lift the box a little, as the foam does not pass through such narrow spaces.
We also sealed the bottom crack of the window in the vestibule with foam. Our conclusion is that it is better to leave a gap of at least 5-7 mm for the foam, then the penetration of the foam and its fixation will be much better. All is ready!
Well, that’s all, actually, you can install platbands. Sergey, at my request, made holes in the platbands and in the casing, due to this I was able to install all the platbands alone, which is very convenient. Below is the finished vestibule window.
Well, this is what the window into the vestibule looked like in its final form. And this is our pride - a large window from the relaxation room, we hope it will be pleasant to look out the window while drinking a cup of tea after the steam room.
And this window into the rest room - the reflection of the trees in the glass creates a downright surreal picture :) You can see what the windows look like from the inside in the following photo (images of the windows of the washing room and rest room have already been given above). We thought that the yellow window sill would be appropriate and, most importantly, functional, because... it is protected by an external varnish. Well, we have already seen that a window sill in a house or apartment is a collection of all sorts of small things.
View of the window in the vestibule from the inside - installed platbands change the picture. This is where we complete our story about unusual casing boxes and the method of their installation.
Hello!
Based on my own practice, I can confidently say that there are specifics for installing windows in private wooden buildings. Therefore, it took me a long time to select a team of installers so that they were truly jacks of all trades.
Today I would like to talk about an important element of finishing a window opening, without which they cannot install plastic structures in any wooden house. This is a pigtail.
It is this that will guarantee that the plastic window does not deform when the structure shrinks, the fittings will continue to work perfectly, the fit of the sashes will be tight, and their opening will be easy and comfortable. But this is not all the advantages of a well-executed joint. So let’s get to know her better.
What is a pigtail?
Houses and bathhouses made of logs and timber do not lose their demand, despite the emergence of new construction technologies and materials. This is not surprising, since such buildings have a lot of advantages: from 100% environmental friendliness to excellent appearance.
However, wooden buildings also have their own characteristics. One of the most important is shrinkage, as a result of which the crowns move to the side and a noticeable decrease in the height of the walls occurs. It occurs due to seasonal growth and loss of moisture from wood.
Overwintering the assembled log house for several seasons without interior decoration helps to slightly reduce the effect of shrinkage, but it is impossible to completely eliminate this phenomenon.
The most vulnerable elements of a house during shrinkage are window and door openings. Shifting logs can deform them, causing them to not only stop opening, but even collapse altogether. Therefore, in order to keep windows and doors safe and sound, a special wooden box is inserted into the openings - a frame or, as it is also called, a casing.
It consists of a threshold (door) or window sill board (window), a top and a side. The width of all elements usually does not exceed 24–25 cm. Of course, wider boards can be used, but this may lead to cracks along the entire length of the box during its operation.
For casing, wood with a moisture content of about 10–12% should be used. Drier material may have internal cracks that are invisible to the eye, and this can lead to the destruction of the socket during the shrinkage process.
There are three types of casing:
- Mortgage block. The cheapest option of all. The box is made from ordinary edged boards 30–50 mm thick. A groove is cut into the inside of the opening for a square beam, to which the finishing board is attached. This design is also distinguished by its simplicity and high speed of assembly, but has one drawback - the need for additional finishing of the slopes after installing the window frame.
- Thorn socket. Typically used in the construction of houses made of profiled timber. It is made from a solid rectangular block in the shape of the letter “T”. The vertical “leg” of this letter is inserted into the groove of the “crossbar”, which simultaneously serves as a window slope.
- Casing “in the block”. The most expensive version of the pigtail design. A tenon is cut into the sides of the opening, onto which a specially cut “P”-shaped deck is placed.
You need to know this! Using regular timber or edged boards to strengthen the openings instead of the structures listed above will lead to a waste of time and money, since sooner or later such amateur activities will lead to serious deformation.
The casing or frame is an integral element of wooden architecture. It has been used in the construction of wooden houses and log baths since ancient times. Failure to use the window frame will not only lead to disruption of the functioning of windows and doors, but also to the appearance of cracks and gaps between logs and frames, and therefore to serious heat losses during the heating season.
The casing prevents the side logs or beams from moving horizontally and leaves a gap for their vertical movement, which protects the glass from cracking. Its presence is especially important if there is a very small partition between adjacent windows. In addition, a pigtail made according to all the rules will also decorate a wooden house.
A window frame of plastic windows
Plastic windows also require the installation of a frame, but this case has its own characteristics. It is necessary to prepare an opening in advance, which should be at least 14 cm wider than the window frame. When calculating the size of the gap, you need to take into account the thickness of the seams and casing boards, as well as the shrinkage coefficient of the wooden house.
Helpful advice!
It is better to order plastic windows after preparing the opening and installing the frame. This will help avoid possible size mismatches.
Next, a ridge is cut out at the end of the opening, which will act as a base for a carriage with a groove. During the shrinking process, the beams or logs will move along this groove inside it, which will relieve the window from unnecessary load. To make a carriage, a beam with a cross-section of 150×100 mm with a groove in the middle, the width of which should be 5 cm wider than the window, is suitable. It is best to cut out the ridge using a chainsaw - this will help achieve better accuracy.
For the top, you can use a 150x40 mm edged board, in which grooves for the ridge are cut on each side. After installing the carriages on the sides of the opening, the top is secured with self-tapping screws. After assembling the casing, all gaps are caulked and sealed with jute tape.
A window frame in a wooden house is needed not only where the doors will be installed directly, but also in decorative openings, since internal logs or beams are also subject to temperature fluctuations.
The design of the door frame is essentially no different from the window frame. The top is usually installed a couple of centimeters above the top log. Vertical sliding of logs is ensured by sidewalls, which, unlike window ones, do not need to be insulated. Naturally, this does not apply to the front door.
Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail
Required tool:
- Jigsaw.
- Circular.
- Chainsaw.
- Electric drill with screwdriver mode.
- Sander.
- Building level.
- Roulette.
- A simple pencil or marker.
Note!
When installing the frame yourself, you do not need to use foam to seal all joints and gaps. The foam rigidly fastens the logs to the casing elements, which prevents them from settling unhindered and negates the whole point of installing the frame.
Sequence of actions when self-installation casing "into the tenon":
- Level the opening using a chainsaw.
- Draw vertical lines in the middle of both ends, measure 3 cm from it on each side.
- Using the markings, cut niches for the tenon using a chainsaw.
- Treat the opening with any antiseptic composition.
- Using a circular saw or miter saw, make a “T” shaped beam of the appropriate size.
- Treat the side casing elements with an antiseptic and secure them with self-tapping screws.
- Insert the top jumper, leaving a gap of 5 cm for inserting insulation and ensuring free movement during vertical shrinkage.
- Insert window sill board.
- Caulk all joints and cover the sides with special “breathable” tape.
Installation of casing for doors is carried out according to the same principle, just the dimensions of the parts will be slightly larger.
To summarize, we can highlight the following points:
- Installation of a window frame in a wooden house is required, regardless of whether the windows are wooden or metal-plastic.
- You can install the frame yourself, since the process itself is quite simple and does not require deep knowledge of wooden architecture; it is enough to follow a number of simple recommendations.
- The casing should be installed before caulking work.
Pit or casing - why is it needed?
Over time, wooden houses experience significant shrinkage due to the fact that the wood dries out. Wood twists and bends, which can cause warping and damage to windows and doors. To prevent shrinkage of the house from leading to deformation of window structures and doors, you need to make a frame or casing.
The cap protects the openings from pressure from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage. The side parts of the pigtail have poses that create vertical sliding. Most often, the pigtail is made from coniferous wood. It consists of a top, sides and a window sill (threshold).
Types of casing (casing)
U-shaped pigtail (in a deck)
Classic pigtail. To perform this, a tenon is cut out at the end of the wall, a vertical part of the casing with a groove is installed on it, along which the frame moves vertically due to shrinkage.
Thanks to this, no pressure is placed on the door and window structure, which guarantees their correct functioning and durability.
The casing is treated with an antiseptic, and soft insulation is placed between the tenon and groove. A wind lock provides protection against blowing under the window sill. The gaps above the top of the pigtail are closed with soft insulating material.
T-type pigtail (spike)
The T-shaped frame is made as follows: a groove is cut at the end of the opening, and the side parts of the casing have T-shaped profiles.
Bars are glued into the grooves on the risers of the frame, which act as stiffeners; they guarantee the stability of the shape of the casing and uniform shrinkage of the walls.
When installing a T-type pigtail, strict adherence to technology is required. For example, if you secure a block with nails or self-tapping screws, there is a possibility of freezing or blowing through the window and door opening. An important role in casing is played by antiseptic treatment and insulation of seams with compressible material.
A U- or T-shaped pigtail is selected depending on the house. When visiting the site, the surveyor will tell you the most suitable type of casing. Our craftsmen professionally perform the full range of work on the manufacture and installation of casing in wooden houses.
Stages of installing a casing (casing)
- The cutout of the opening is made at a distance of 80-90 cm from the floor; when determining this distance, the person’s height is taken into account. Between the opening and the window or door structure, you need to make a shrinkage gap of 35-60 mm.
- Preparing the opening. Using a chainsaw, depending on the type of socket, a groove or ridge is cut in the opening.
- Processing and insulation. After installing the frame, its surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, and insulation is placed in the gaps. When installing the frame, you cannot use foam, since the window structure must move freely vertically.
- Installation of wooden elements. At the end, the installation of wooden elements is carried out, namely the window sill, sidewalls and top.
- Wall thickness: wooden houses are built from logs and timber, so the wall thickness can be from 140 to 300 mm. The dimensions of the parts of the frame correspond in width to the walls of the house, or slightly exceed it. You also need to consider the width of the window sill.
- Opening size: the larger the opening, the more material will be required to make the frame and the time to work. The shape of the opening also affects the price of the casing: a standard rectangular design or a complex polygonal one.
- Quality of a wooden house: if the walls are assembled without connecting elements, the curvature of the walls occurs in the cut out openings. Then you have to additionally straighten the walls, which leads to additional costs. Houses made of timber are assembled using nails that meet at 300 mm. Because of this, additional money and time are required to sharpen chainsaw chains or purchase new ones.
source: www.sotdel.ru
Features of installing a pigtail in a wooden house
The width of the casing components can be up to 26 cm. However, it can be larger, but in this case, this may lead to the appearance of cracks along the entire length of the structure. Typically, window frames are made from wood with a moisture content of 10 to 12 percent.
Note!
If the moisture content of the wood is less, internal cracks are possible. Extreme care is required when making door frames (casing), especially metal ones.
There are two varieties. Simple, which is notable for the presence of pre-cut grooves in the opening logs - for the ideal fit of one side of the casing. This type is used exclusively when installing simple wooden windows.
It is no longer possible to secure a plastic profile in this way; there is another type of casing for plastic windows. Its essence is this: a ridge is cut out at the ends of the logs, and then a carriage with a groove is put on it. When shrinking, the ridge will fit into the groove of the carriage without any problems, and the window itself will not be damaged in any way.
Timber house window
For each of the openings of a timber house it is made separately. Just like in a structure made of logs, installation is done without screws, nails, or other foreign elements. But for maximum sealing of the room, it is necessary to lay insulation between the log and the frame.
Over the centuries, Rus' has developed casing manufacturing technology that guarantees both high sound and heat insulation properties of doors and windows, as well as long service life of openings. When it is made correctly, it will last up to a hundred years.
Even when the log house has shrunk after two years of inactivity, even then it is impossible to do without casing. Because, while guaranteeing the preservation of the original shape of the opening, it makes the wall itself significantly more stable. But, in addition to this, it can be given the function of external decoration of a building as an important element of it.
Currently, a whole casing manufacturing industry has been established, so choosing the shape and color of the casing that matches the exterior of the building will not be difficult.
Rates, cost
Manufacturing costs can vary greatly: prices and costs depend on many factors; in every wooden building, the part is not just necessary, but simply irreplaceable!
What determine the prices and cost of casing:
- on the quality of wood
- casing type
- casing forms
- presence of decorative elements
- opening dimensions
- where the part will be installed - in a timber, log or log house
And, of course, the final price of the order is affected by quantitative indicators: how many pieces or how many meters.
The window frame is made of dry material with a humidity of 8-12%. It consists of a top, risers, an adhesive window sill or a window sill board in cases of installing a plastic window sill.
More information about the options for installing windows in wooden houses can be found on this page.
Types of jobs
Array: All parts are made by processing solid wood while maintaining the correct wood texture.
Adhesive: The details of such casing are made from glued boards. It is glued into a microspike on all four sides. Knots and resin pockets in this case are completely cut out.
Combined- This is the most common type of casing. The top and risers are made of solid pine. And the window sill is made of glued boards. All of it has a clean appearance and after installation needs to be treated with paint and varnish.
Window frames are made to fit each window or door individually. When placing an order, the customer must know which windows and doors will be installed in the future casing. It can be made as a sample for a window - this option is used in cases where the house will not have exterior or interior decoration; the walls of timber or rounded logs remain intact.
The pigtail can be either a standard shape - a rectangle, or non-standard shapes. Trapezoids, polygons, balcony blocks. Non-standard forms have their disadvantages, but there are ways to avoid them. Such information is discussed with the surveyor at the site.