Viburnum is known to everyone as a shrub that gives us berries that have medicinal properties. But viburnum is sometimes overcome by pests and diseases. They cause her a lot of trouble: they eat and damage leaves and flowers, adversely affecting the amount of harvest.
Viburnum pests and ways to combat them
Leaf beetles can completely destroy planted viburnum bushes, and the fight against these pests is very difficult. Many people have most likely experienced this, so we will tell you about an effective method of combating leaf beetles.
In early spring, dark gray larvae with a black head hatch. They settle on the underside of the leaf, and it is very difficult to shake them off, because they dig into it tightly. These larvae are very voracious. In a matter of days, they can gnaw most of the leaves down to the veins. Then they burrow into the soil and after a while crawl out as yellow-brown, half-centimeter-long beetles. Now they settle on the upper side of the foliage and continue to diligently absorb them. By autumn, the viburnum, affected by leaf beetles, stands almost completely bare. Such a plant is not ready for winter and may simply freeze.
Females gnaw through the bark two millimeters deep and can even catch wood. Up to 25 light yellow eggs are laid in the hole. Afterwards, the female seals the nest with bodily secretions, masking it with the color of the bark. But masonry can be distinguished by their convex shape. Some of them organize nests in the petioles of large racemes. As a result, the yield drops sharply. By autumn, the beetles hibernate under a viburnum bush.
There is one fairly simple way to protect viburnum from further harmful effects of leaf beetles. During the mass appearance of beetles in mid-summer, they need to be shaken off early in the morning, at the moments of their least activity, from the foliage onto plastic film. Afterwards, put them in a bucket of water and pour them away. Try to carry out this operation before the start of the laying period.
Let's also call verified folk remedies pest control on viburnum. At the beginning of spring, when the branches of the viburnum have not yet overgrown with young leaves, you can cut off the tops of the shoots, where clutches of eggs are visible. The cut pieces must be burned immediately. If everything is carefully checked and eliminated, then next year new beetles will not appear.
Important! Don't be late with pruning. It needs to be done before the first leaves appear. This method is absolutely harmless to viburnum bushes, and anyone can use it.
These viburnum pests are not resistant to Karbofos. Its ten percent solution should be sprayed on the bushes before they bloom. During the growing season, the plant should be treated with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops.
viburnum leaflet
This pest looks like a blue-gray or greenish-olive caterpillar with yellowish sides and covered with light hairs. Its head is dark brown. Caterpillars that hatch in the spring devour the buds just as leaves begin to emerge. They entangle them in webs and knock them into lumps. By mid-summer, the leaf roller begins a period of pupation in its feeding areas. In large quantities, this pest can almost completely eat up the viburnum, which has a detrimental effect on the future harvest.
The fight against leaf rollers comes down to simply collecting caterpillar nests and then burning them. Before the buds open, the viburnum needs to be treated with Nitrafen paste. The 60% mixture comes out of a bucket of water with 250 grams of the substance added to it. During the period from bud break to the appearance of buds, the shrub must be treated with a 10% solution of Karbofos.
Did you know? Since ancient times, the Slavs have seen viburnum as a symbol of youth, beauty and girlish tenderness. Because it blooms with white flowers, it was called a wedding tree.
These pests, unlike the previous ones, prefer to “feast” on the flowers of the plant. The larvae of the viburnum gall midge are white, and the honeysuckle is red. They overwinter in the top layer of soil, wrapped in cocoons made of cobwebs. Adult gall midges are active when the buds are first exposed. Females lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae also develop there. As a result, the buds become deformed, increase in size, turn red and swell. The corolla becomes thicker, the pistil and stamens are inhibited in development, and the flowers do not open. Gall midges give only one offspring.
Measures to combat these pests include loosening the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before and after flowering, viburnum should be sprayed with a solution of “Karbofos” in a 10% ratio.
Green lobed moth
This pest is a yellow-green caterpillar with a brown line along the body and similar colored spots. It only harms flowers by gnawing out their ovaries. To get rid of the lobed moth, viburnum is sprayed with a 10% solution of Karbofos.
The larva of this pest has an olive body with two rows of white transverse spines. The back is painted in burgundy or a mesh pattern. The sides of the sawfly larva are light gray, and the head is yellow. They overwinter in the upper soil layers and pupate in the spring. Adults appear during the leaf bloom period and can gnaw the viburnum bare.
The fight against sawflies begins in the fall with careful digging of the ground. Next, preparations for viburnum should be administered: a 10% solution of “Karbofos” and wormwood decoction, which is used to spray the viburnum before and after flowering.
Adult aphids on viburnum lay their eggs on the bark near the buds. This is where the future larvae overwinter. Once born, they make their way to the leaves and suck out all the nutrients from them. As a result, the leaves begin to curl and the apical shoots become deformed. In early summer, pests with wings appear and colonize new plants. In August-September the cycle closes - females black aphids produce another offspring that will overwinter.
This pest is able to migrate, but lives exclusively on viburnum. Hordes of black aphids with special efforts damage young bushes. The black viburnum aphid can migrate, but lives only on viburnum. It damages young bushes with particular cruelty. During the growing season of viburnum, aphids develop several generations.
Beginning gardeners often wonder how to get rid of aphids on viburnum. To overcome the black viburnum aphid, you need to cut out and destroy the shoots that are common at the roots. There the pests lay eggs before wintering. To kill aphids, you can release beneficial insects that feed on them. These can be hover flies and lacewing larvae, ladybugs.
Before the buds open, treat the shoots with Nitrafen paste at a concentration of 60%. Herbal preparations help get rid of aphids well: infusion of potato tops, pepper tincture or a solution of laundry soap.
Did you know? Viburnum is a shrub that is often confused with a tree, because its height can reach two meters.
The larch cap moth is a tiny butterfly with a wingspan of no more than 10 mm. Its gray body is covered with shiny scales. Moth larvae are no more than half a centimeter in size and are orange-brown in color. The caterpillar makes a shelter for itself in the form of a cover according to the size of the body and overwinters there. In the spring it feeds on viburnum leaves, pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July, which lays a couple of eggs. In summer, the eggs hatch into caterpillars.
The following spring treatment against pests will help in the fight against deciduous cap moths - spraying viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots. In the summer you need to use Fufanon, Actellik, Commander, Iskra and Inta-vir.
Main diseases of viburnum, treatment methods
Various diseases to which scorch is susceptible can overcome it year after year, and the number of them is amazing. The whole difficulty is that it is very difficult to find out the cause of the disease, even with a thorough diagnosis. We can only draw a single general conclusion that the plant has undergone a viral attack when spots or stripes appear on its leaves that differ from its natural color.
Did you know? Viburnum is an excellent honey plant. It produces a lot of nectar.
Powdery mildew
Viburnum leaves are rarely affected by this disease. This type of fungus affects viburnum only in the summer, when it is rainy and cool. Only at a time when conditions for pore maturation arise. To remove an unpleasant disease, the following drugs for viburnum should be administered:“Topaz”, “Strobe” or copper-soap solution. Wood ash, which has been cleared of coal particles, also helps in this case. Three kilograms of ash should be poured into a bucket of hot water and left for two days. Viburnum that is sick with powdery mildew should be treated twice a month.
Gray spots of various shapes with a brown or purple border appear on viburnum leaves. On the underside of the leaf, the spots are olive-gray in color. By September, dark dotted fruiting bodies of the fungus begin to form on the dead tissue. Then the spots crack, dry, and the middle falls out.
Dealing with spotting is quite simple. It is necessary to remove all affected leaves from the bush. During the budding period, it is necessary to spray the viburnum with Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.
Did you know? Viburnum is a health worker among plants, as it produces a large amount of phytoncides that resist harmful organisms.
Gray and fruit rot
Gray rot affects viburnum during periods of cold and rainy weather. Especially in the summer. The leaves first acquire large brown spots that spread over the surface. They quickly increase in size, dry out and crack. Spores from infected leaves fall onto healthy ones. Berries affected by gray rot become brown and dry out. The fungus eats right through them. A smoky gray coating of spores can be seen on the surface. To get rid of the disease, you need to collect all the leaves that have fallen in the fall. If viburnum is severely affected by this disease, then it should be sprayed with Vectra during the growing season.
Fruit rot affects young shoots of the plant. They dry up along with flowers, leaves and berries. With the onset of summer, the berries that are affected by the disease become covered with dense pads, then mummify and turn black.
You can cope with fruit rot by removing mummified berries with the onset of autumn. You also need to spray the bushes with copper oxychloride before and after the viburnum flowering period.
Yellowing and mosaic leaves
Mosaic diseases are a group of viral diseases, which are characterized by variegated colors of the affected organs with alternating spots of different sizes and shapes. The affected areas turn green or white of varying intensity. The leaf blade becomes deformed and the plant begins to lag in growth. Infection with mosaic can occur through seeds, the sap of diseased plants when picking seedlings, through pinching, or when infected plants come into contact with healthy ones. Mechanical carriers of the virus are aphids, bedbugs, mites, soil nematodes. Viruses penetrate plants through damaged tissue and persist in soil, plant debris and seeds.
To date, there are no known methods to combat this disease that would cope with it forever. The only thing that has been achieved is to find preventative agents and develop varieties that are resistant to leaf mosaic. If the level of infection has not reached a critical point, then diseased areas can be cut out. If the viburnum suffers irreversible consequences, then the bush needs to be dug up and burned.
Signs of infection are primarily noticeable on young growing shoots. They begin to show light areas along the veins, yellow rings and star-shaped spots. Further, the spots turn white, and with their further merging, the leaf begins to turn yellow. Mosaic disease progresses faster at temperatures of 30 degrees, when the plant is heavily thickened.
Resistance to the disease decreases with sudden temperature changes, temperatures higher than 30 degrees and very dense placement of plants. Here you need to observe a certain thermal regime. Often the disease is transmitted by insect pests, so you need to carefully monitor their appearance and destroy them in a timely manner. Having discovered a disease, you need to take preventive measures: isolate the viburnum and disinfect equipment. If the plant dies, it must be dug up and destroyed along with the surrounding soil. It is very difficult to accurately determine a specific disease of viburnum.
You can recommend this article to your friends!
161
once already
helped
Unfortunately, viburnum bushes are often affected by leaf-eating insects, which makes them look unattractive for most of the season. For this reason, many gardeners refuse to grow them. However, pests are not that difficult to get rid of. It is necessary to treat the bushes with chemicals in early spring, and during flowering and ripening of fruits - with herbal infusions and decoctions.
Kalinovy leaf beetle causes the greatest harm to the bush. In some years, it damages the leaves so badly that only the veins remain. In May - June, the black larva eats up plant tissue and then moves on to flowers. The adult beetle lays eggs under the bark, from which voracious larvae reappear. Means of struggle. In order to stop the active reproduction of leaf-eating caterpillars, preserve the bush and give it the opportunity to form a harvest, the viburnum tree requires eradication treatment with chemicals every year before the buds open. To do this, the bushes are sprayed with 0.3% carbo-phos, 0.15% rogor or 0.1% fufanon. During the period of mass development of the pest, treatments with Elexar or Actara (0.08% concentration) or twice, with an interval of 7-10 days, spraying with Intavir or FAS (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) help. You can fight leaf eater with pruning. In the fall, inspect the tops of all branches and cut off the oviposition. Early in the spring, carefully examine the tops again and cut off those with oviposition. As soon as the first leaves begin to appear, all the larvae will appear on them. Pinch off these leaves and destroy them. Repeat the operation twice more at an interval of 1-2 days.
Kalinovaya aphid in damp summers it also spoils viburnum bushes. Damaged upper young leaves curl into a ball. Aphids suck the juice from young tissue and inhibit the growth of the bush. Means of struggle. Early spring treatments with 0.2% Actellik, 0.15% Rogor or Confidor are effective, FAS helps (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Before flowering, 0.08% actara or 0.1% fufanon is used.
Kalinovaya leaf roller Harms at the beginning of summer - during flowering and ripening of fruits. During this period, on viburnum, you can see leaves twisted into a neat tube. This is due to the caterpillar, which feeds on the plant sap of the bush. Means of struggle. During the period of the mass appearance of the pest, 0.05% decis or inta-vir is used (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). For effectiveness, the treatment is repeated after 2 weeks.
Powdery mildew and spots on viburnum leaves are quite rare. These fungal diseases affect bushes only in very cool and humid summers, when favorable conditions are created for the spread of spores. Means of protection. Early spring spraying with topaz, vectra or strobe (0.2% concentration), copper soapy liquid (100 g copper sulfate and 40 g of soap per 10 liters of water). Also from powdery mildew use wood ash, cleared of coal particles. The bushes are pollinated or sprayed with infusion. To prepare an infusion, 3 kg of ash is poured into 10 liters of hot water. Leave for 2 days, treatment is carried out 2 times a month.
Viral diseases may cause yellowing and mosaic leaves. In this case, the viburnum cannot be saved; the bushes must be completely uprooted and destroyed.
Garden without pesticides
At the height of the ripening of the fruits, viburnum needs to be protected with herbal decoctions and infusions. Herbs can be harvested for future use; it is better to do this during flowering, on sunny days. Dry them not in the sun, but in a shady, well-ventilated place. Before spraying the bushes, filter the prepared nasties or decoctions; for better adhesion, add shaved laundry soap (40 g per 10 liters of water). Plants are processed in the evening hours. Red hot pepper helps get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars. A decoction is prepared from 100 g of red fruits, pre-crushed, and 1 liter of water. After 1 hour of boiling, infuse for 2 days. Before use, 2 cups of decoction are diluted in 10 liters of water. Garlic solution repels aphids and viburnum leaf beetle. It is prepared using 300 g of crushed garlic per 10 liters of water, and the bushes are immediately sprayed. Citrus peels (orange, lemon, tangerine) will help get rid of aphids and viburnum leaf beetle. Nas-toy is prepared from 1 kg of crusts. In a softened form, they are passed through a meat grinder and 10 liters of warm water are poured. Leave for 3 days in a dark place. Spray the plants several times every 10 days. It’s even better to alternate citrus spraying with treatment with pepper and garlic preparations. Marigolds help get rid of aphids. The infusion is prepared from 200 g of dried flowers and 10 liters of water, aged for 2 days. Spraying is carried out once a week until the pest completely disappears. Calendula officinalis (marigold) protects against many leaf-eating pests. Collect 1 kg of fresh flowers or take 600 g of dry ones, add 10 liters of water and leave for 1-2 days. Bittersweet nightshade helps fight viburnum leaf beetle and leaf beetle. To prepare the decoction, take 5 kg of green mass and pour 10 liters of water for 3 hours, then boil for 2-3 hours over low heat. The decoction cannot be stored for long periods of time. Before hunting, it is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. Wormwood is used against aphids and viburnum leaf beetle. Prepare a decoction from 1 kg of dried green mass and 5 liters of water. Boil for 20 minutes, cool, filter and dilute with water in a 1:1 ratio. The effectiveness of this decoction increases if you add liquid chicken manure (1:10) to it and let it simmer for 2 days. Op-yaw is carried out three times every 7 days. Tobacco (tobacco dust or shag) protects against aphids and leaf roller caterpillars. The infusion is prepared from 400 g of dry crushed tobacco leaves, or 200 g of shag (tobacco dust), which is poured into 5 liters of water and kept for 2-3 days. After filtration, add water to 10 liters. For the decoction you need 400 g of dry tobacco and 10 liters of water. Leave for 1 day, then boil for 2 hours over low heat. Tomato shoots remaining after pinching can be used against aphids. To prepare nastoya, take 500 g of chopped green mass and wash down with 3 liters of water. After 6 hours of infusion, filter and add up to 10 liters of water. The decoction is prepared from 4 kg of raw tops and 5 liters of water. After hours of infusion, boil for 40 minutes and add water to 10 liters. Treatment is carried out once every 10 days. Potato tops collected early in the summer are also a good remedy against aphids. To prepare the infusion, take 1.5-2 kg of green mass and add 10 liters of water. Insist for 10 hours. Yawing is carried out three times every 5 days. Field sow thistle saves viburnum from powdery mildew. To prepare the infusion, 1 kg of green mass is poured into 3 liters of water and left for 8-10 hours, then filtered and immediately sprayed on the diseased bush. Onions help cope with powdery mildew and spotting. Prepare an infusion of 200 g of husk and 10 liters of water. Leave for 5-10 hours. Apply three times every 5 days.
Collection and storage of fruits
It is better to pick ripe viburnum fruits after the first frost, then they will not be so bitter and taste more pleasant. When harvested before frost (in September - October), the fruits are cut in clusters, placed in the refrigerator and kept for a day at temperatures below zero. Such freezing also has a positive effect on the taste of the fruit, significantly reducing the bitter taste.
In May, the first winged individuals, ready for reproduction, appear on the viburnum. After mating, some insects move to other viburnum bushes and lay eggs. With the advent of a new spring, everything starts all over again.
Have questions?
Ask and receive useful tips from professional gardeners and experienced summer residents.
Aphids on viburnum, how to fight?
What to do if there are aphids on the viburnum? Chemical agents can successfully combat black aphids on viburnum. Under their influence, paralysis occurs in insects. They simply cannot feed anymore and soon die. Chemical products are made on the basis of insecticides. A tiny dose of these substances is enough to kill an entire colony of pests.
The advantages of fighting aphids with chemicals include the speed of action of poisons and the fact that under their influence all aphids on viburnum die, that is, adult insects, larvae, even eggs. In addition, these drugs retain their toxic properties for 20 days after treatment.
You can buy such products in flower shops. They are sold in the form of a concentrate. Before use, dilute the product with water. Typically, the packaging indicates instructions for use based on diluting the concentrate per 10 liters of water.
Treat viburnum bushes against aphids using rubber gloves in the absence of wind. It is advisable to use a respirator.
Which chemicals To buy, they will tell you in gardening stores. By and large, all these drugs have an effective effect on aphids. So you can use any of them. During the first week, aphids die en masse, then this process slows down. After 20 days, the effects of these drugs stop.
Before the first leaves appear, viburnum can be treated with Nitrafen paste. Later, the viburnum bushes need to be sprayed with any of the above products.
Eco-friendly pest control products
This is a good preventive method. In late autumn, cut off the young shoots that appear at the base of the viburnum trunk. Aphids readily lay eggs on it. In the spring, before flowering begins, generously water the soil around the viburnum with very hot water. This will kill the eggs and larvae of the aphids.
Aphids are happily eaten by hoverflies, lacewings, and ladybugs.
A solution of ammonia is actively used against garden pests.
An infusion will help get rid of aphids on viburnum onion peel. These insects cannot stand the smell of the infusion, but do not die from it. In order to enhance the effect of the infusion, add laundry soap, wood ash, and tobacco to it. It takes a long time to prepare, but is not difficult. To do this, you need to take 200 grams of onion peels, 500 grams of wood ash, 200 grams of tobacco. Mix the ingredients and add 10 liters of water. Leave the remedy for five days. Then strain the infusion, dissolve a bar of laundry soap in it.
Spray the viburnum with this infusion every week until all viburnum pests leave the bush.
Here's what else you can use to spray viburnum against aphids. The product is prepared by eye. Add wood ash, spices, and soap solution to the water. Any spices can be used. This is, for example, red or black pepper, cinnamon or cloves. One day is enough to infuse the product. Then strain the infusion and start spraying the viburnum. This infusion should be used for the first time in the spring. Then the procedure can be repeated every month.
No less effective in the fight against aphids is another infusion. Take 200 grams of garlic, tobacco, pine needles, fill them with 10 liters of water. Boil for half an hour. After five days of infusion, the decoction is ready for use. Add a little liquid laundry soap to it so that the broth does not drip from the leaves and branches of the viburnum.
Perhaps you have an exotic variety of viburnum buldenezh growing, reaching a height of three meters. So you ask: how to treat buldenezh against aphids? Use the same methods for controlling black aphids as for ordinary viburnum.
Viburnum, so named for the color of its berries - fiery red, like hot iron - grows on almost every summer cottage. Unfortunately, in every garden it is also subject to attacks by insects that can deprive the bushes of vitality in a short time. How, how and when to treat viburnum for aphids in order to prevent pests from actively reproducing is a topic of concern to summer residents.
Black aphid
As soon as the first buds on the viburnum bloom, the black (viburnum) aphid occupies the young shoots. Deprived of vital juices, young leaves become deformed and curl. Dark spots of various shapes appear on them, which leads to complete drying and death of young branches. In one season, several generations of aphids appear, and the first is equipped with wings - it has the ability to move from bush to bush, capturing all plants, not just viburnum.
The last generation overwinters at the base of the bush and, at the first signs of the beginning of spring, rushes up the trunks, getting closer to the buds that are beginning to swell. That is why active pest control begins in early spring.
The viburnum aphid causes damage to the entire area, but the main habitat is viburnum bushes. All the main means of struggle are used on them.
There are two main stages in the fight against black aphids.
- Creating the most unfavorable conditions for laying eggs of the last, wintering generation. To do this, you have to cut out without regret all the root growth, which abounds in viburnum bushes. It is optimal to carry out such thinning of the base of bushes in the second half of summer.
- Spring treatment of bushes against pests using chemicals or folk remedies.
In the first days of spring, before using any pest control, the trunks of viburnum bushes are cleared of exfoliated old bark - most pests hibernate under it. After all the garbage has been removed, the ground under the bush is poured with hot water.
Application of pesticides
The first treatment is carried out as soon as the spring sun warms up. During this period, pests emerge from hibernation and begin moving towards the kidneys. The most effective drugs include:
- "Aktara";
- "Decis";
- "Prestige";
- "Karbofos";
- Fufanon.
Viburnum should be sprayed against pests in dry, windless weather using personal protective equipment.
Good results are obtained by treating viburnum with a Nitrafen solution at the rate of 200 g of product per 10 liters of water. The drug also needs to be sprayed on the homes of ants that carry aphids.
It is permissible to poison pests with chemicals only in early spring, since later application will harm pollinating insects, especially bees.
Folk remedies
The fact that folk remedies are less effective in combating aphids is a fairly common misconception. Their effectiveness is no lower than industrial pesticides if they are prepared and applied according to all the rules. At the same time, solutions prepared according to “grandmother’s” recipes can be used throughout the entire growing season. But it is better not to wait until the pest has firmly established itself on the viburnum, but to spray the affected plants immediately after detecting the pest.
- Soap solution
Prepared from laundry or green soap - 300 g per bucket of water. The treatment is carried out 2-3 times a week, after washing the bush with water from a hose under moderate pressure. Instead of soap, you can use one of the most inexpensive washing powders.
- Ash infusion
A glass of ash is brewed with a liter of boiling water and left for a day. Then add 40-50 g of soap or washing powder, bring the volume to 10 liters. Spray viburnum once a week.
- Ammonia
The solution is prepared from 20 ml of alcohol and a bucket of water. Viburnum is treated against pests twice, less often - three times, the interval between spraying is 2 weeks.
- Tobacco infusion
250 g of tobacco or shag 2 days insist in 5 liters of water. Then filter, add 5 liters of water and process the bushes.
- Pharmaceutical chamomile
Take 1 kg of dry flowers on a bucket of hot water, insist 12 hours. The infusion is filtered, add 2 parts of water to 1 part of the infusion. Plants are treated with the prepared solution immediately after mixing.
- Feverfew (Caucasian chamomile)
300 g of crushed dried flowers are poured with a small amount of boiling water, left for 2 hours, filtered, water added to 10 liters and immediately sprayed with viburnum - the herb successfully fights many pests of garden crops.
Dried pyrethrum flowers can be purchased at pharmacies or garden centers under the trade name Persian Powder. The manufacturer indicates recommendations for use on the packaging.
- Needles
Pine or spruce needles are crushed and steamed with boiling water at the rate of 200 g of dry raw material per liter of water. The infusion is kept tightly sealed for two days, after which the affected bushes are sprayed with it.
- Henbane black
If there are thickets of this plant nearby, take young rosette leaves (about 200-300 g), pour a bucket of hot water and leave for 13 hours. Before spraying, add 30-50 g of liquid soap to the infusion.
Black henbane is a poisonous plant; be careful when working with it. Leaf celery.
To attract small birds (tits, warblers, linnets), feeders, drinking bowls, and nesting houses are equipped for them. If attracting natural enemies of aphids to a site is one of the components of pest control, pesticides are used extremely carefully.
In the fight against aphids in the spring, all means are good. Their competent and timely use will protect a beautiful bush with healthy berries from pests and get good harvest.
Like other garden crops, it is affected by pests. The greatest damage to viburnum is caused by: black viburnum aphid, viburnum leaf beetle, viburnum leaf roller, honeysuckle spiny sawfly, viburnum and honeysuckle gall midges, green lobed moth.
Black viburnum aphid
Adults are dark brown or brown-crimson. The eggs overwinter on the bark near the buds. The larvae, hatched in the spring, colonize the leaves and suck out their juice. Damaged leaves curl, the tops of the shoots are deformed. At the beginning of summer, winged individuals appear and colonize new plants. In August-September, females lay overwintering eggs. This aphid migrates. Lives only on viburnum. It especially damages young plants. During the growing season of viburnum, the pest develops several generations.
Control measures. Cutting out and destroying root shoots where eggs often overwinter. Use (ladybugs, lacewing larvae, hoverflies) that feed on aphids. Treatment (before buds open) with 60% nitrafen paste (200-300 g per 10 liters of water). Spraying during the growing season with 10% karbofos (75-90 g per 10 liters of water), but no later than 30 days before harvesting. Treatment with herbal preparations: infusions of potato tops (1.2 kg of green or 0.6-0.8 kg of dry tops per 10 liters of water); pepper (1 kg of pepper pods, cut in half, or 0.5 kg of dry crushed fruits per 10 l water); celandine (3-4 kg of fresh plants or 1 kg of dry plants per 10 liters of water) or a solution of laundry soap (200-300 g per 10 liters of water).
viburnum leaf beetle
Brown-yellow beetle 5-7 mm long. The larva is greenish-yellow, with a dark brown head. The eggs overwinter in depressions made by the beetle in young, non-lignified shoots. One clutch consists of 18-24 very small round yellowish eggs. Larvae hatching in May feed on young leaves, strongly skeletonizing them. Pupation occurs in June in earthen cradles at a depth of 2-3 cm. Young beetles, hatched after 1 month, gnaw holes of various sizes in the leaves. As the leaves grow, the damage increases. During the years of mass reproduction of the leaf beetle (cold, rainy summer), only petioles and large leaf veins remain on viburnum bushes. Heavily damaged bushes have little growth and do not bloom the next year. At the end of July and beginning of August, the beetles lay overwintering eggs.
Control measures. Spraying plants before flowering with 10% karbofos (75-90 g per 10 liters of water). During the growing season, treatment with pepper infusion (1 kg of pods cut in half or 0.5 kg of dry crushed fruits per 10 liters of water), tomato shoots (4 kg of green or 1 kg of dried mass per 10 liters of water) or (3 kg of green or 1 kg dried mass per 10 liters of water).
viburnum leaflet
Damages viburnum and. The caterpillar is dark bluish-gray or olive-green, yellowish on the sides, covered with light hairs, and the head is light brown. Caterpillars that hatch in the spring eat the buds and later damage the leaves, entwining them with cobwebs and knocking them into a ball. They pupate in mid-summer in feeding areas. With massive development, the viburnum leaf roller destroys many leaves, which leads to a decrease in yield.
Control measures. Collecting and burning nests with caterpillars. Spraying before buds open with 60% nitrafen paste (200-300 g per 10 liters of water). Treatment of plants from the beginning of buds to the appearance of buds with 10% karbofos (75-90 g per 10 liters of water).
Honeysuckle spiny sawfly
Damages viburnum, decorative and edible honeysuckle. The body of the larva is olive-colored with two transverse rows of white spines, the back has a dark marble or mesh pattern, the sides are light gray, and the head is yellow. False caterpillars overwinter in the surface layer of soil. They pupate in spring. Adults appear during the leaf out period. Females lay eggs on leaves. The hatched larvae feed on the leaves, eating them around the edges. If the damage is severe, young plants may become completely bare.
Control measures. Autumn digging of the soil. Spraying the bushes before and after flowering with 10% karbofos (75-90 g per 10 liters of water). Processing with a decoction of wormwood (700-800 g of dried grass per 10 liters of water) or tobacco, garlic and onions (200 g of tobacco waste or tobacco dust, 200 g of crushed garlic bulbs and 150-200 g of onion scales per 10 liters of water).
Viburnum and honeysuckle gall midges
Infects flowers. The larvae of the first pest are white, and the larvae of the second are yellow. They overwinter in cobweb cocoons in the upper layers of the soil. Adults emerge when the buds are exposed. Females lay eggs inside the buds, and larvae also develop there. The buds acquire an ugly shape, greatly increase, swell, turn red, the corolla thickens, the stamens and pistil remain underdeveloped, the flowers do not open. The pest develops one generation.
Control measures. Late autumn and early spring loosening of the soil. Spraying before and after flowering with 10% karbofos (75-90 g per 10 liters of water).
Green lobed moth
Damages viburnum, buckthorn and other crops. The caterpillar is yellow-green, with two pairs of ventral legs, a brown-red line along the back and spots and dots of the same color. It only damages flowers by gnawing out flower ovaries.
Control measures. Spraying before and after flowering with 10% karbofos (75-90g per 10l of water).
If you notice an error, select the required text and press Ctrl+Enter to report it to the editors