Bituminous tiles with their own hands. Do-it-yourself tile roofing: ceramic (clay), cement-sand (concrete), polymer-sand and plastic How to make tiles

For such an elite and noble roofing material as natural tiles, raw materials are required, which are absolutely not rare. This is what ceramics are made of. Next, we'll show you how.

And we will also tell you about well-known brands of roofing and tell you if there is Russian production.

Raw materials and equipment

Ceramic tiles should have a high fat content and be fusible. As a rule, plants for the production of this roofing material are built near quarries with such raw materials.

Of the equipment for the production of ceramic tiles, a mixing device is used (where the clay is turned into a homogeneous mixture), as well as a special press, with which the tiles are given a certain shape. You also need a drying chamber and a special oven capable of reaching an internal temperature of up to a thousand degrees.

Depending on the brands and complexity, the equipment as a whole can cost from three hundred and fifty thousand to one and a half million rubles.

The following video will tell you how ceramic tiles are made:

Manufacturing technologies

Factory

The clay extracted from the quarry is transported by conveyor belt to the warehouse. After some aging, it is processed using a wheel mill, grinding the material (this way it mixes better with water later).

Under production conditions, at the first stage, in a special mixer, clay is mixed with water and plasticizers are added. The output is a plastic homogeneous mass.
Then this mass is subjected to pressing (either belt or stamping method). At the same time, electronic control is carried out, as a result of which the products are neat, without errors in size.
Roofing elements dried in a special chamber are sent to the kiln, where they are fired at a high temperature. The finished tile is left in its natural form or coated (vitreous glaze or clay engobe).

With my own hands

Let's start with the selection of raw materials - the clay used must be sufficiently clean, plastic and soft.

When rubbing the lump between the fingers, sand should not be felt.
And when throwing a clay lump on the floor, it should not crack, crumble. It is optimal when it is flattened (like dough).

It’s not bad to make just one product for testing. If it turns out to be uniform, red, without bubbles at the break, does not decrease much during firing, and rings when struck, then everything is fine. The clay is well chosen.

Clay selected for tiles should lie through the winter. To do this, it is stacked on the surface of the earth in piles of two meters wide, the height of which is seventy centimeters.

Well-frozen clay is an excellent raw material. And so that it freezes better, you can periodically water the stacks with water.

In the warm season, clay is soaked for two or three days, after which it is crushed in a pug mill (built from a wooden box or barrel), where metal knives are screwed onto the axis. Then the products are molded using a frame measuring thirty-three by twenty-one centimeters. There is a handle on the side of the frame, and a board is placed below.

Clay is sprinkled with ash before forming products (it can be replaced).
Two-centimeter layers are cut with a steel string from a clay lump. They are passed through a frame, covered for a while with drying boards, then carried to the shelves for drying.
Dry for ten days, in a room or under a canopy.
Before firing, for decorative purposes, tiles are often dipped in a solution of greasy red clay called glaze. Roasting is carried out in a special oven. It consists of an ash pan, a furnace and a firing chamber, and a pipe. Behind there is a loading opening through which both lay, and take out a tile. Products are fired vertically or sideways on edge.

This video will tell you how ceramic tiles are produced at the factory:

Notable Manufacturers

BRAAS

More than a hundred factories around the world belong to the company of the same name that produces this tile. For Russia, it is produced by a Russian-German enterprise. The tile of this brand is distinguished by the presence of additional ventilation gaps, high reliability (the tiles are connected by a lock).

The manufacturer gives a guarantee for thirty years, but the roof definitely withstands a hundred years. The price of products for one piece of ceramic tile Braas (BRAAS) is from 100 to 300 rubles, for square meter- from 1.3 to 3.8 thousand rubles.

Koramic

Tiles made in Germany with a wide variety of sizes, profiles and shades. Suitable for any roofs: both pitched and hip. Doesn't fade over time at all.

In any weather (and at any time of the year). A square meter of Koramic ceramic tiles will cost from 1.1 to 1.8 thousand rubles.

Creaton

Another high-quality European brand of ceramic tiles is Creaton. Differs in reliability and a wide model range.

Twenty profiles are painted in more than a hundred different shades. This is anthracite, and green moss, and the color of a noble red wine. This brand even has blue and graphite gray tiles. One piece will cost about 75 to 150 rubles.

This video will tell you how Creaton makes its ceramic tiles:

Robin

Another German brand of ceramic tiles, Roben, which immediately speaks of her. Modern high-class European equipment makes it possible to obtain the most accurate dimensions and avoid marriage.

For coloring, natural pigments are used, allowing to obtain pure natural colors. Two-color models (“autumn leaf”, for example) are very interesting. The price of one piece of tiles ranges from 84 to 100 rubles. This brand of ceramic tiles competes with the Chekker brand.

Tiles of Russian production

Today in Russia there are no enterprises for the production of ceramic tiles. There are only joint productions. In particular, as already mentioned, the company BRAAS.

The roof is the main finishing element of each building. Roofing is the protection of the internal space of the building from the influence of the environment. Wooden shingles are the best natural roofing. Not only the operation of the entire building and its durability, but also comfort for a person depends on the quality of the roofing work.

Types of wood roofing

Roof coverings made of wood are divided into types depending on the technological processes of production, configuration and installation method.

Shingle

This is the ancestor of all types of wooden tiles. The coating is wooden plates, the longitudinal section of which can be of various geometric shapes. It is worth noting that shingle, which is made by sawing wood, is valued less than chipped shingle. When sawing the material, the structure of the tree is disturbed, which entails a decrease in resistance to external factors.

Wooden tiles are fixed to the crate with the help of self-tapping screws or nails, which connect two plates together and enter the crate to a depth of 2 cm.

Shingles and chips

This is a simplified version of the shingle, which has different dimensions of the length and thickness of the plates. The length of one board ranges from 40 cm to 1 m, the size of the wood chips is smaller.

Wooden tiles of this type are made by splitting chocks into plates of various sizes. The wood for the plates must be thick and dry, otherwise many planks will not be suitable for laying. When using a log with a moisture content of up to 18% for the manufacture of wooden tiles, there is a risk of cracks on the material after complete drying.

In the manufacture of the material, the soft center of the log (sapwood) is not used, such boards do not withstand long-term operation. In the finished wooden tile, there should be no defects, not only in the form of cracks or holes, but also cracks and knots.

Such wooden tiles are made mainly from deciduous trees, rarely used conifers wood due to its softness. The shingles on the roof are mounted in a checkerboard pattern in layers, while the overlap of the plates is performed both in the horizontal and vertical directions.

Shindel

This wooden tile is a small chipped plank. The plates are overlapped on the roof, and you should not follow the staggered order of the elements.

The shindel is fixed with the displacement of the planks. This type of wooden tile is not rigidly attached to the crate, there should be a small screw. Due to this, it is possible for the material to increase in size when in contact with moisture without swelling, the plates do not rest against each other.

In the manufacture of shingles, deciduous trees are used, Special attention is given to how the structural rings of wood are arranged. Due to the violation of manufacturing technology, with repeated drying and moistening, wooden tiles warp in various directions.

plowshare

This type of wooden tile looks like a blade with a carved edging. For the manufacture of the plowshare, only aspen is used. Each board is a work of art, created by hand by the skilled hands of a master. Technological process manufacturing involves the use of only hand tools.

Harvesting wood for this type of wood tile is carried out in the phase of active circulation of the largest amount of juice in the fibers. It takes a lot of time and material to make a share, so the plates are expensive. Aspen over time, under the influence of heat, acquires strength equal to stone, and a silvery color.

tes

Coniferous boards, the installation of which is carried out on the roof along or across the cornice line. Fixing the board across is more practical, the material lasts much longer.

To drain water, a gutter is formed in the center of the boards. The roof is laid from tesa in several layers, while there should be a gap. Such material is fastened with nails. The boards that will be in the upper layers are sanded on all sides and placed with the core of the wood out. Therefore, the boards of the lower layers do not need to be sanded, when laying the core goes down.

When choosing the direction of laying the material along the cornice line, the installation of boards begins with fixing the sheathing (finishing) board, from which the row is laid. The boards are fixed with an overlap of 5 cm for each subsequent row, which is laid on the previous one.

Calculation of the amount of material for the roof

Before performing a roof with wooden tiles, it is important to perform an approximate calculation of the amount of material. There are special tables for calculating the number of plates. Please note that the number of planks may vary depending on the laying method and the size of the plate.

It is recommended to purchase wooden tiles with a margin of up to 10% of the original quantity. The volume of wood material is calculated not only by the size of the total roof area, but by the steepness of the upper enclosing structure. The use of wooden roof elements (shingles, shingles) of various lengths depends on these factors.

Before purchasing wooden tiles, you should calculate how many plates are required to cover one m 2. When calculating the amount of material for the roof, the size of the wooden tile is taken into account: length - 40 cm, thickness 9-10 mm at the thick end and 5-6 mm at the thin end. Such tiles are used for roofs ranging from 100 to 500 m2. When calculating a wooden roof, it is taken into account that laying is carried out in three layers, so 75-80 boards will be needed to cover m 2 of the roof. The calculation is made for roofs with a slope of 18 to 90 degrees.

The number of wooden tiles for roofing depends on the number of layers of potential coverage. In construction stores, finished wood tiles are packed in such a way that plates from one package are enough to cover an area of \u200b\u200b1 m 2 with several layers.

To calculate the roof area, a standard mathematical formula is used to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bfigures.

Pros and cons of wood shingles

Tiles made of wood during installation require scrupulous work due to the fastening of each element separately. All types of wood roofing have the "spruce cone" principle. When wet, the plates swell, due to which the planks close into a barrier that prevents water from penetrating into the inner layers of the roof. When dried, wooden tiles bend slightly, the plates rise in the shape of a dome, while air circulates freely in the roof gaps and under-roof space. There are processes of waterproofing and ventilation. Due to this property, wooden tiles do not provide for additional work on laying waterproofing layers.

Wooden roofs have a number of advantages.:

There are no corrosion processes.
The material is durable, with proper care, the plates have a service life of more than 50 years.
There is a balance between temperature and humidity.
Natural, environmentally friendly material.
Noise and heat insulation.
Possibility of use in various climatic conditions, at temperatures from +40 to -70 degrees.
Tiles made of wood differ from other roofing materials in the smaller mass of both a single element and a full-fledged roof covering. This feature allows during construction not to use additional metal elements in the roof slab, while a simple foundation is sufficient.

The tree has several disadvantages:

The material is prone to geometric deformations under the influence of temperature and moisture. When working with wood shingles, laying requirements must be observed.
It ignites quickly, but this problem is solved through the use of fire-retardant impregnations (flame retardants).
After laying requires additional protective coating.

How to make wooden tiles with your own hands?

If desired, you can make wooden tiles yourself. At home, such types of tiles as shingles or wood chips are made: special skills and qualifications of the carver are not needed to create them.

For the manufacture of quality wood flooring it is not recommended to use wood with natural moisture for roofing. It is necessary to prepare logs. For this, the wood is dried for about 3 years. To speed up the drying process, the wood can be sawn into chocks, while the minimum length of the base should be 40 cm. In this case, the wood is ready for use after 6 months, but it is recommended not to rush and withstand the material for 9 months.

Splitting dry wood is difficult, it is necessary to apply maximum physical effort. Dry wooden tiles have a high degree of wear resistance. Each stump needs to be split into separate plates, while splitting the tree needs to be done in layers. A plank made in this way is less hygroscopic, and its service life is long.

After that, it is necessary to process the ends of the plates and adjust their size as accurately as possible to each other. Separately, you need to process the edge of the plate, which will be under the adjacent plank. Finally, a drainage channel (drip) is formed on the wooden tile. Do-it-yourself wooden tiles can save a lot of money and make a roof according to a special project.

Recently, the use of wooden tiles in the performance of roofing work has been in demand. The material has unique properties and at first glance it seems short-lived and fragile, however, wooden tiles perfectly protect the structure and give the building an aesthetic appearance.

Useful video about making wooden tiles with your own hands

Production of cement-sand tiles

Tiles are made in two types. The first type is pottery, or clay. Its production requires clay of a certain composition and, most importantly, firing in bulky kilns. Large fuel consumption, the presence of drying rooms, etc. make it difficult to get clay tiles directly on the garden plot, farm, rural estate.

The production of the second type of tile, cement-sand, is much simpler than clay. There is no need for firing, and hence, furnaces, fuel. The starting materials for this type of tile are cement grade not lower than 200, sand and water. In this case, it is better to have cement that is slowly setting. Then more mixture can be cooked at the same time. The setting rate of cement is the higher, the higher the temperature of water and air. Apply cement, the setting period of which runs from 30 minutes to 1-12 hours. Prior to mixing, the cement should be stored in a dry place and in plastic bags. From dampness, the astringent qualities of cement fall sharply.

Sand for the mixture should contain fine, medium and large particles no larger than 2 mm in size. Admixtures of clay, earth, plant remains, etc. in the sand are not allowed. Such a consistency of sand is achieved by sifting it through a mesh obliquely standing in a frame with a mesh size of less than 2 mm. River sand is preferred for shingles. It is dried and also sieved.

Water for the mixture is taken at a temperature of 15..18 ° C, clean, odorless and not hard. You can quickly determine the hardness by washing off soap suds from your hands, which is not so easy to remove from the skin. They soften water without adding special additives to some extent by boiling, after which the water is cooled and drained, leaving a residue in the container.

Rice. 1. Wooden molding machine: 1 - punch; 2 - support; 3 - bar-limiter; 4 - bed; 5 - ejection mechanism; 6 - tie rod; 7 - matrix; 8 - form

The preparation of the mixture for molding tiles is carried out in portions used for 20 ... 30 minutes. The mixture is laid 1 part of cement, 3 parts of dry sand and 0.5 parts of water. In a suitable container, everything is thoroughly mixed with a metal shovel until the mass becomes uniform in color. After that, water is added and mixed until the mass reaches the same moisture content.

Tiles are molded on machines. The simplest wooden machine was designed in the middle of our century by G. Morozov. Its frame (Fig. 1) is made from a cleanly planed timber with a section of 80 × 80 mm. The form (Fig. 3) is made from boards 20 mm thick and 70 mm wide. It is a box without a bottom. The mold walls are sheathed with roofing sheet galvanized steel of minimum thickness (0.35 ... 0.45 mm). The internal dimensions of the form correspond to the dimensions of the matrix. The lower edges of the end walls of the form are edged with a steel strip 20 mm wide. The form itself is fixed with ears in the center of the bed between the legs and side bars. Ears 70...80 mm long are a continuation of the steel strip, edging the end walls of the form. These ears are bent at a right angle to a height of 20 mm from the upper edge of the end walls and fastened to the horizontal bars of the frame with screws. Screws or bolts with nuts can be used instead of screws. But both the ears and the heads of the hardware should be buried in the wood of the bars, because the horizontal upper parts of the latter are guides when the punch moves between them. Of course, the shape will be much more durable if it is welded using gas or electric welding from steel sheets with a thickness of 1.5 ... 2.5 mm. In turn, in order to loosen the racks of the bed less, they are pulled together with homemade bolts or studs with a diameter of 8, 10 or 12 mm, cutting the corresponding metric thread at their ends.

Rice. 2. Forming parts for one of the types of slot tiles: 1 - handle; 2 - punch; 3 - loop: 4 - guide plate; 5 - metal edging; 6 - bar; 7 - base; 8 - screw; 9 - matrix

The drawings on the punch and the matrix (Fig. 2) must be cut out in exact accordance with the selected type of tile. On the punch, a mirror image of the front side of the tile is made, on the matrix - its reverse side with a spike. The gap between the punch and the die in the mold determines the thickness of the tile. But increasing the thickness of the tiles will lead to the weighting of the entire roof. It should be strived for the thickness of the tiles in the thinnest places to be 12-15 mm. Therefore, for example, the proportionality of the protrusions and depressions on the punch and the matrix is very important. The ribs and recesses arising from this largely determine the strength of the tile. That is why most machine parts require precise manufacturing and dimensional stability during operation.

The punch is made from hardwood, preferably dry oak. The planes of the base of the punch are well planed with a planer. The largest plane will become the working plane when the drawing is “erected” on it. In accordance with the chosen type of tile, for example, three oak planks are made to the punch. Given the complexity of setting dimensions on the sections "A-A" and "B-B" (see Fig. 2), we will give these dimensions in the text. So, two planks in one longitudinal plane have a width of 47 mm, and in the other - 35 mm, the total length of each plank is 380 mm, and the height is 13 mm. The third bar has a constant width of 33 mm, a length of 380 mm and a height of 15 mm. In its middle, a semi-oval groove 12 mm wide and 6 mm deep is selected for the entire length of the plane. The sides of the recess are rounded to half the depth of the bar and should resemble an isosceles trapezium in cross section.

Characteristic of all the convexities and concavities of the punch is that all these "holes" and "hills" in the section have beveled walls and rounded corners. This, as in molds, will facilitate the removal of the finished product. In particular, when forming a tile, the mass will stick less to a similar surface of the punch, and on the matrix this will ensure a relatively quick separation of the dried tile.

Finished strips are glued and nailed to the base of the punch according to the dimensions in the drawing. Considering the moisture content of the molding material, a punch in a purely wooden design will not retain its working shape for long. Of course, it is possible to proliferate the strips and the gaps between them for strength, which will somewhat lengthen the life of the punch. It is much more efficient to beat the punch with thin-sheet annealed copper or aluminum, and at worst - with the thinnest galvanized roofing steel. The metal coating should be fixed with nails or screws on the vertical walls of the punch, deepening their caps into the base. Compliance with the originally specified dimensions and smoothness are required! The coating should tightly fit the planks and depressions, clearly highlighting the edges.

Rice. 3. Shape: 1, 2 - metal strips; 3 - wall; 4 - metal edging

On fig. 2 shows a matrix and a punch for tiles with longitudinal ribs. When forming parts for shingles of the type of slotted stamped tiles are created, then there will also be strips that will need to be nailed to the bases of the matrix and punch across the elongated ones (but not on them!) With an indent from the edge by 10 ... 20 mm (see Fig. .2). It is clear that in these cases the elongated bars are shortened.

The edges on the back sides of the punch and die should be slightly rounded. This will save both parts and hands from damage. The same recommendation can be made for the guide plate, with the only difference that here it is necessary to round off the edges on all sides of the plate. For this, rasps, files with a rough notch, a saw and even a sharpener are suitable when rounding is carried out across the fibers of the board or bar. And to remove the angle of the face along the fibers, a knife, planer, etc. is suitable.

The guide plate is made up of boards (see Fig. 2), which are knocked down in two layers, crosswise. Boards sewn in this way on two opposite sides form ledges in the form of quarters measuring 22.5 mm. The punch and the shield are interconnected by two self-made loops made of strip steel. You can also use large door hinges for this, which, unfortunately, are attached only to the edges of the punch and the shield, which leads to an expansion of the holes into which screws or screws with nuts will be screwed. The defect can be corrected if metal plates with a thickness of 1 ... To prevent this from happening spontaneously, fixation should be provided.

A handle is screwed to the punch for ease of tilting, and a support for the raised punch is attached to the shield. The sides of the shield, narrowed by a quarter, are inserted into the guide beds (see Fig. 1), which are formed by limiter beams. For smooth reciprocating movement of the shield along the guides of the frame, its adjoining edges should be rounded and lubricated with sufficient grease. At the same time, it is clear that quarters are also selected in the restrictor bars with a section of 80 × 65 mm, which is clearly seen in the section D-D (see Fig. 1), where the inserted guide plate is also shown. Fasten the limiter bars to the longitudinal bars of the bed, preferably with homemade studs or M6, M8 or M10 bolts with metal washers, plain and spring, and nuts. The washers will prevent biting and indentation of the heads of bolts and nuts into the wood of the beams and, in addition, will eliminate the self-unscrewing of the nuts for a long period. This type of connection can also be recommended for other machine components. Nails in a wooden machine are permissible only when their leg can be bent on a plane opposite to that on which the head is located, or when the head of the nail is fixed from lifting. We will meet the latter case if the punch and matrix strips are nailed, and then the working surface of these punch and matrix is lined with metal sheets.

The ejector mechanism is mounted under the mold, in the center, between the legs of the frame, so that its plate enters the mold no higher than the lower cut of its walls. The principal kinematic diagram of fastening the ejector mechanism to the transverse beams of the bed, located between the legs, is shown in Fig.4. The rack reciprocates due to the fact that in the upper part, under the plate, it passes through a sleeve with an external thread. The sleeve itself is threaded through the middle of the metal sheet, to which it is attached with four nuts. First, we wrap a nut on each side of the sheet, then add one more. The second pair of nuts will not allow the first pair to turn away. It is more successful to make this connection by welding, if any. The metal sheet, already assembled with the sleeve, is attached to the upper transverse beams of the frame. Moreover, the sleeve does not have to be turned on a lathe; a cut of a water and gas pipe with a suitable inner diameter to the outer diameter of the rack is quite suitable. The rack should pass freely into the sleeve, but not hang out in it. A gap of 1 ... 1.6 mm is sufficient, given the lubrication of the contact surfaces.

Rice. 4. Ejector mechanism: 1 - plate; 2 - finger; 3 - metal sheet; 4 - bushing; 5 - lever; 6 - rack; 7 - axis; 8 - bracket

The lever is rotated around the axis (see Fig. 4), which is fixed on the lower transverse bars with two brackets. And so that the axle does not move spontaneously out of the brackets, washers with cotter pins are placed at its ends, for which two holes are drilled in the axle. You can do without metal washers if you create shoulders at the ends of the axis with a groove. The latter will rest on the ends of the brackets. In any case, it is preferable to bend the staples from a steel strip with a thickness of at least 2 ... 3 mm.

The operational work of the machine begins with the retraction of the punch and its placement on the support (see Fig. 1). Then, on the plate of the ejector mechanism that replaces the bottom of the mold, the matrix is placed with the back side. The matrix pattern is lubricated with a greasy composition, which will prevent the mass from adhering to the surface of the pattern during drying. In the past, this composition was oil. For the production of 1000 pcs. tiles spent 6 ... 8 kg. It is important to have a lubricant composition that repels the water contained in the moldable mass.

Then the pre-prepared mass is put into the mold. Experience will show how much approximately it should be lowered into the mold so that there is room for the punch to be lowered with force. And here we should not forget that although the punch has a guide plate, the punch itself will correctly stand in the form only when it goes deep into it to the height of the picture.

By the handle on the punch we stretch it to the front end of the mold. This pulling is permissible when there are no transverse ribs and depressions on the tile and when the punch is shorter than the mold. Moreover, usually reciprocating pulling is repeated two or three times and, after making sure that the pattern is clear, the punch is returned to the support. In the case of the production of tiles with transverse and longitudinal ribs and cavities, only vertical pressure can be exerted on the punch, the length of which must match the length of the mold. That's when the correct dose of mass in the form is essential. The punch is also called the matrix carriage precisely for the ability not only to squeeze out the pattern, but also, as it were, to cut it with the possibility of reciprocating motion. By the way, this movement is used for ironing the front surface of the tile.

This ironing consists in the fact that the front surface of the molded tile, after lifting the punch, is sprinkled with dry cement or a mixture of cement with ocher, mummy or other alkali-resistant pigments. Here, in the form of a “flavored” surface, it is sprayed with water. Then the punch is lowered and the powder coating is smoothed with its reciprocating motion. By pressing the lever, the ejector mechanism is set in motion. Its plate on the fingers lifts and removes from the mold the molded tile matrix. In this form, the tiles (MANDATORY WITH A MATRIX!) are taken to a drying rack in a closed and draft-free room. Here, the tiles are periodically (3-4 times a day) watered with clean water. It is clear that if the tile is not yet frozen and soft, then it should not be washed away with water. To reduce the amount of watering, roof tiles are sometimes sprinkled with wet sawdust, for example.

Rice. 5. Finished tiles: a - from cement grade 400 and sand of medium size; b - warehousing before shipping tiles

These waterings are mainly carried out after two or three days, when the molded tile is removed from the matrix and placed on a rack on a small side edge. In this position, the tile is another 5...8 days. Then it is taken out of the room and folded in the shade on a large edge (Fig. 5). After 2 ... 3 weeks from the time of manufacture, roofs can be covered with tiles.

The productivity of the described machine is 200...300 tiles per day. And this means that during the drying of tiles with a matrix for two to three days, another 200 ... 300 matrices per day will be required. Obviously, the simpler the pattern on the matrix, the easier it will be to make it.

Is it possible to do without a machine for the production of tiles at all? Of course, if you need a small amount of it. To do this, it is enough to have one punch, several dies and a collapsible form, which is a box without a bottom and a lid, but the walls along one of the symmetry axis must be disassembled to release the matrix with the molded tiles. There is another option for issuing a matrix with tiles without decomposing the form. To do this, make a straight quadrangular prism of wood or other material. The perpendicular section of the prism should be equal to or slightly less than the rectangle of the base of the matrix. The ejection mechanism is ready. The form, together with the matrix and tiles, is lifted and placed on a prism. Then the form is lowered, and the tile with the matrix remains on the prism. It is clear that the height of the prism exceeds the height of the form. The prism itself can be replaced by, say, a metal structure consisting of a metal sheet 3-5 mm thick at the base, a rack and a plate at the top.

The described wooden machine is made in the image and likeness of a metal one (Fig. 6), which was previously mass-produced in small batches, which forced the craftsmen to make their own machines. On a metal machine, 10-12 thousand tiles were made per month. These machines can be used for individual labor activities. In the presence of metal, welding equipment and lathe to establish the production of machines for the manufacture of tiles is not difficult.

Rice. 6. Metal molding machine: 1 - box cutter; 2 - carriage-punch; 3 - matrix; 4 - a box with a sieve for cement with or without dye; 5 - bed; 6 - form; 7 - ejection mechanism; a - machine; b - work on the machine; c - tiles

Rice. 7. Houses under tiled roofs: a - in Germany; b - in Tallinn; c - in Japan; G- in Venice; 1 - downpipe; 2 - gutter; 3 - tiles; 4 - rib; 5 - junction of tiles to the wall; 6 - cornice; 7 - dormer window; 8 - chimney; 9 - skate; 10 - wind board

Tiles as a roofing material have been used since ancient times. Houses under pottery and marble roofs were built in antiquity by the Greeks and Romans. In the 12th century, these roofs appeared in Germany and nearby countries. At present, tiles are widely used in Western Europe (Fig. 7). Our country has forgotten about tiles. The roof of 50 ... 70 years ago sometimes reminds of tiles. Although any owner of a farm and even a garden plot can independently make cement-sand type tiles on his territory.

Tiled roofs are fire resistant and last up to 100 years or more. However, shingles are fragile and heavy compared to others. roofing materials. Therefore, the strength of the rafters and battens impose increased requirements. This is also necessary because tiles with a rough relief (S-shaped, grooved ...) trap snow.

From the book Modern work on the construction of the roof and roofing author

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Laying tiles on the roof Rafters, as a rule, have additional elements (Fig. 8 d). In this case, the cross-section of the struts and racks are equal to the rafters, the contractions are made from a board 4 × 18 cm or from a plate 14/2 cm. The cross section of the run depends on the distance between

From the author's book

Screed production The word "screed" has been mentioned several times in this book. Many people who are unfamiliar with construction terminology, due to quite understandable associations, may get the impression that this mysterious screed is designed to “pull” something. If you too

Of great importance in the construction or decoration of the house is the choice of exterior coating. One of the most popular ways to finish the roof is shingles. But in order to obtain a high-quality result of work, it is necessary to learn the technology of manufacturing and laying bituminous tiles. If you carefully study this issue, then it is quite possible to do this. In this article, we will get acquainted with the features and basic techniques for laying shingles with our own hands.

General information about shingles

Bituminous tiles got their name because of the use in the manufacture of bitumen - a material that has the properties of resin or asphalt. Bituminous tiles are also called “soft” or “flexible”. This tile is characterized by zero water absorption, resulting in no corrosion or rotting on the roof.

In addition to bitumen, the composition of flexible bituminous tiles includes fiberglass and stone dressing.

Glass panel or fiberglass is made from glass threads. The material is characterized by high strength, but also very easy to work with.

For the production of tiles, bitumen is used, which is enriched with oxygen. When using piece bitumen, the tile becomes more frost-resistant and elastic.

Granulate is a material made on the basis of stone powder. For manufacturing, slate or basalt stone is used. It is very easy to distinguish tiles made from basalt stone from tiles made from slate. Basalt powder has a round shape, and shale powder is oblong. Basalt powder is better, as it does not crumble during operation.

Fiberglass is wrapped on both sides with a special bitumen-based resin, and then sprinkled with stone powder on one side. The other side is an adhesive primer, which provides adhesion between the tiles and the roof.

Stores sell shingles in packs of 2*3m. One square meter of such tiles weighs from eight to twelve kilograms.

The warranty period for bituminous tiles is quite long from 10 to 30 years. The higher the quality of bituminous resin, the more expensive the price of tiles, and the higher the service life.

Bituminous shingles are cut in different forms. These are the forms:

beaver tail,
dragon tooth,
shingles,
brick,
rhombus,
hexagon.

Benefits of installing shingles:

protection of the roof from mechanical damage, due to wear resistance;
ease of installation process;
excellent aesthetic qualities;
light weight, which facilitates the process of installation and transportation;
a roof made of bituminous tiles has a long service life;
wide temperature mode from -50 to + 100 degrees;
no noise during rain or hail.

The main disadvantage of shingles is their high cost.

The main manufacturers of bituminous tiles

1. GAF (America) - the world's largest manufacturer of shingles.

Features of GAF shingles:

size: 3.05 m²;
variety of colors and design solutions, three series of shingles: “Lux”, “Standard” and “Premium”
high quality material;
does not fade over time;
the use of organic materials in the manufacture of tiles.

Price: from $31 for 1 pc.

2. IKO is a huge shingle company with factories in the USA, Canada, Belgium and Slovakia.

Peculiarities:

the use of basalt as a powder;
bitumen treatment with hot air;
excellent aesthetic appearance;
affordable price.

Price: from $15 for 1 pack.

3. KATEPAL is a Finnish shingle company.

Peculiarities:

the use of non-woven fiberglass in the production of bituminous tiles;
mineral granules act as powder;
excellent protection against water, ultraviolet and temperature differences.

Price: from $10 for 1 pack.

4. SHINGLAS - bituminous tiles, which are produced on Russian plant TechnoNIKOL.

Peculiarities:

many colors and cutting options;
a combination of several shades in the roof trim;
profitability - the presence of minimal waste;
the base of the tile is fiberglass;
basis of a lining carpet - polyester.

Price: from $11 for 1 pack.

5. Owens Corning - made in the USA. Has a number of features:

antifungal coating;
a huge number of colors;
high fire safety;
technology of copper plating of basalt powder provides a long service life.

Price: from $16 for 1 pack.

6. RUFLEX - Russian company for the production of shingles.

Peculiarities:

environmental Safety;
use of improved bitumen;
frost resistance;
elasticity.

Price: from $11 for 1 pack.

7. ONDUVILLA - bitumen tiles made in Italy.

Peculiarities:

size: 110x40 cm;
ease of operation;
the use of the patented “high resistance” technology, which involves the impregnation of the base of the tile with bituminous resins;
15 year warranty;
resistant to chemical and biological agents.

Price: from $26 for 1 pack.

Bituminous shingles video:

8. TEGOLA - Italian shingles.

Characteristics:

more than 1000 colors;
topping, made from basalt;
good sound insulation;
flexibility and plasticity;
a layer of polyurethane varnish perfectly protects the roof from atmospheric precipitation.

Price: from $15 for 1 pack.

Bituminous tile roofing

Conventionally, the installation of bituminous tiles is divided into the following stages:

1. The device of a lining carpet under a bituminous tile.

2. Installation of a vapor barrier.

3. Laying shingles: technology and methods.

Storage conditions for bituminous tiles:

temperature not lower than +5°C;
in hot weather, storage is carried out only in the shade;
do not install shingles during rain or snow;
when installing bituminous tiles in the cold season, it is recommended to place packages of bituminous tiles in a warm room for two to three days before installation.

Bituminous shingle roofing is quite moisture resistant, but some manufacturers recommend covering the base with roofing felt before laying the shingles.

Roofing material will give the tile tightness and additional strength.

Roofing material should be used if the building is located in a harsh climatic zone where constant winds blow. Also, with a slight slope of the roof, a roofing felt lining should be used.

To ensure proper air ventilation, it is necessary to leave channels for ventilation. Channels on the bottom and top of the roof will ensure proper air circulation over the thermal insulation. Types of channel manufacturing: hood, ridge aerator or grate on the roof. The size of the ventilation hole is calculated according to the angle of the roof. The lower the angle, the larger the vent. For example, when the roof is tilted 30 degrees, the hole size is 4 cm, and when the roof is tilted 15 degrees, it is 8 cm.

Tips for installing shingles:

1. The base for laying bituminous tiles must have such characteristics as strength, inflexibility and evenness.

2. The material for the base is edged board. The recommended wood moisture content is 15%. The distance between the boards is 15*15 cm.

3. After preparing the wooden base, we carry out a vapor barrier. A film is laid over the entire surface of the roof, which is fixed with wooden planks, a stapler and nails. Lay insulation on top of the film: polystyrene foam or special plates. After laying the insulation, proceed to install the windproof film.

4. The next stage is the installation of a solid flooring made of plywood, dry tongue-and-groove boards or chipboard. Be sure to treat the wooden parts of the roof with an antiseptic or antiperine to prevent the development of mold and mildew.

5. After carrying out the preparatory work, a lining carpet is laid on the roof. Bitumen-polymer roll material acts as a carpet. Laying is carried out from the lower right corner, the overlapping of layers between them is 10 cm in the horizontal direction and 15 cm in the vertical direction. Attach the underlayment to the surface using special galvanized nails.

7. Installation of bitumen shingles should begin with the installation of a flanged cornice, which gives the roof a finished look. The minimum thickness of the cornice is 15 cm. Nails are used to fasten the flanged cornice. Fastening interval - 10 cm. Nails are stuffed in a zigzag manner.

8. Laying the tile itself is done from the bottom row. Before laying, the protective film is removed from the tiles and attached to the base of the roof. The distance between the cornice and the first row is 2-3 cm. The tile is attached to the base with nails and glue. Nails are driven in at a distance of 3 cm from the edge of the tile in the corners. The consumption of nails per tile is 4 pcs. The thickness of the gap between the shingles is 2-3 mm.

9. If the roof has a large slope or the terrain is windy, it is better to fix the tiles with 8-10 nails.

10. Special sheets are used to finish the ridge zone. The installation of the ridge sheet is carried out in such a way that the last row of tiles is half closed. The overlap of ridge sheets is 10-12 cm.

11. A special valley carpet is provided for the valley zones. The carpet is fastened with special glue and nails.

12. In order to avoid a non-uniform color, tiles should be mixed from different packages.

13. If there is an adjunction to vertical surfaces on the roof, then a special triangular ruler should be nailed before laying the tiles. Place the upper part of the tile on this ruler, and then close it with a metal apron.

14. When laying tiles near chimneys, the chimney must be thermally insulated.

Installation of shingles video:

It's amazing how life changes. Much of what we now habitually buy ready-made in stores, 100 years ago, people did it with their own hands: they ground flour, baked bread, spun, wove, etc. They also built houses on their own, harvesting, among other things, Construction Materials: sawed wood, made boards and bricks, burned lime.

But even in periods closer to our time, people were forced to return to economic "self-service", recalling old-fashioned methods and technologies. They were forced to do this either by the post-war devastation and the accompanying commodity hunger, or by being abandoned to the mercy of fate by the authorities. From those times, not only objects made by the hands of our grandfathers or houses built by them remained, but also a mass of literature devoted to the handicraft production of a wide variety of goods.

It is very interesting to hold such books and pamphlets, usually published in the 1920s or 1940s, in your hands. And this interest is not only historical. The fact is that the traditional technologies that these manuals are devoted to are interesting today due to the fact that they were based on the use of predominantly local natural materials- environmentally friendly and cost-effective. And this is a reason to become interested in them for people who are tired of the dirt of modern production and constantly rising prices in the construction markets.

The book of this kind also includes the pamphlet of the engineer A. Skachkov "Fireproof roof made of clay tiles", published in 1925 in the series "Insurance Library of the Peasant". It tells in detail how to make clay tiles with your own hands. We provide an abbreviated description of this technology.

Video: production and installation of ceramic tiles

Clay selection and preparation

The quality of clay for tiles has always been of great importance. The best clay is the one from which the pots are made, not greasy or sandy, but medium. It should be clean, soft and viscous. A tile made of very oily clay warps and cracks when dried, while lean clay turns out to be very weak, strongly absorbing water and frost-resistant.

But even very oily or very thin clay can be adapted for tiles. To reduce the fat content, fine clean sand or finely crushed bricks, pots, and tiles should be added to the clay. If the clay is too thin, then sand can be washed out of it.

There are many easy ways to find out the suitability of clay for tiles.

Here are some of them.

A crumpled lump of clay, thrown with force on the floor, should flatten like dough, without cracks, into a cake, and not crumble into separate pieces.
When rubbing the clay between the fingers, no sand should be felt.
Well kneaded clay should easily accept and retain all forms that are given to it (should be plastic).

But the most reliable way to find out the suitability of clay is to make several trial tiles from it. With good clay, the finished tile has an even red color, there are no cracks or distortions on it, when it is struck, it emits a clear metallic ring, and when lowered into water, it does not greatly increase its weight. In addition, being placed on two bars, it should freely withstand a person standing on it, have a light vitreous coating on the surface, and be of the same color and without bubbles at the break. It would be good if, during drying and firing, the size of the tiles would decrease by no more than 5%.

After selecting and harvesting clay, it must be prepared for further processing. For tiles, clay is harvested at any time of the year, but it must definitely overwinter. Clay taken out of the soil is piled on the surface of the earth in the form of long ridges 1.5-2 m wide and 0.7 m high at any length. These ridges are called stacks. In them, from the autumn rains, the clay thoroughly gets wet, during severe frosts it freezes, and in the spring it thaws again. As a result of these processes, clay acquires qualities that facilitate its processing.

To make the clay freeze better, the stacks are mixed from time to time and filled with water. The longer the clay is refrozen, the better it becomes. You can freeze it for several winters. Frozen clay is soaked before processing and after 2-3 days they begin to knead. It is best to do this in a pug mill, although you can knead the clay with your feet.

A pug grinder can be made from a large wooden barrel or from thick boards in the form of a box. Inside this box, an iron or wooden (oak) axle is inserted, on which iron knives are screwed. When the axis rotates, the clay thrown from above is cut by knives and directed downwards, towards the hole, just as it happens with meat in a meat grinder.

In order for the clay to mix better, sometimes additional fixed knives are placed on the sides of the pug mill itself. A carrier is attached to the top of the axle, into which oxen or horses are harnessed and driven in a circle. It is better to mix the clay twice. The wooden pug mill is about 1.5 m high, 1.06 m wide at the top, and 0.89 m at the bottom. The iron axle is 2.8 m high, and the length of the knives is 0.35-0.45 m with a blade width of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 cm. The carrier is made 8.5 m long. With one horse, two or three workers can knead about 15 m3 of clay in 8 hours.

Tile molding

The easiest way to mold a flat tile. For its manufacture, it is necessary to have a wooden or iron molding frame with a handle. The internal dimensions of the frame are 33x21 cm with a thickness slightly larger than 2.5 cm.

A plate (movable bottom) is attached to the frame, which must pass exactly through the frame and be 1.25 cm thick, and have a cutout for the spike at the top.

Making a flat tile is simple. A frame is placed on the desktop, and a plate with a cutout is placed in it, and all this is lightly sprinkled with dry sand or ash. Nearby on the table it is necessary to put a large lump of crumpled clay and give it the shape of a cube. Then, several layers 2 cm thick are cut with a bow with a string of thin steel wire. This is easy to do in a "formwork" of wooden bars 2 cm thick. After forming the cube, the upper bars on each side must be removed and cut the layer, leading the bow along the bars. After that, you need to remove the next row of bars and repeat everything.

After that, they take one layer of clay and put it in a frame, press hard in the place where the spike should be, and then add a lump of clay here. After that, they take a rolling pin, wash it in a tub of water so that clay does not stick to it, and clean off the excess clay from the frame, after which the frame is carefully removed. A drying frame is placed on top of the tiles, they are turned over and, having removed the plank, the tiles are taken to the drying shelves.

When molding tiles, it is necessary to cut layers of such a size that they fill the entire frame, since the addition of clay is harmful and, after firing, lags behind the tiles. The molding of Tatar (Roman) or Dutch (grooved) tiles is also described in A. Skachkov's book. This process is somewhat more complicated, but, as experience shows, any person masters this technology in a day or two. In a day, one worker can mold from 500 blanks.

For roof ridges, a special tile is prepared, which is called ridge.

Drying tiles

Proper drying of shingles is of great importance. Rapid and uneven drying can warp and crack tiles, so drying should be slow and even across the entire surface of the tiles.

The damper the clay was during molding, the easier water comes out of it during drying, and vice versa - the steeper the clay was mixed, the slower the tile dries. This may cause more cracks.

Drying tiles is very harmful effect of the sun and wind. Therefore, it is better to dry the tiles indoors or under a canopy. In a small production, tiles are placed on temporary shelves made of boards and bricks instead of stands. Such shelves are easy to disassemble and fold, and they do not require any racks or nails in the construction. In case of rain or strong sun, the tiles are covered with matting or straw mats. Drying time in summer averages 10 days,

Roof tiles firing

Firing is the most crucial moment in the production of tiles. Proper firing depends on fuel, kiln design, skill of the worker (kilner) and many other factors.

Tiles are fired in special kilns, the simplest of which are batch kilns.

The furnace is divided into four main compartments: the firebox, the ash pan, the firing chamber and the chimney. The internal dimensions of such a furnace are impressive: 2 m wide and 4 m long. The firebox is 1 m long. A wall with holes is installed behind it, separating the firebox from the firing chamber. After the firing chamber is loaded with tiles, a temporary wall with holes is laid out in the back of the chamber. In some furnaces, they do not do it. The height of the pipe for such a furnace is not very large - about 4.5 m. The dimensions of the pipe at the bottom are 70x80 cm, and at the very top - 40x53 cm. A valve is installed in the pipe to increase or decrease thrust. Cover the oven with a vault.

At the back of the oven there is a large opening for loading and unloading tiles. During firing, this hole is laid with bricks on clay mortar and covered with sand to reduce heat loss. Sometimes a small door is left here to monitor the progress of firing and take samples.

Different tiles are laid in the oven in different ways: Dutch and Tatar tiles are placed vertically, and flat tiles are placed sideways on a long edge. Tiles should stand vertically, without tilt, at a small distance from each other. So that it does not bend during firing in one direction or another, it is slightly wedged with broken fired tiles.

It is best to lay the tiles in the furnace in separate tiers, starting from the wall closest to the furnace and bringing them across the entire width of the furnace to the very top. At the end of the loading of one tier, another is placed, and so on, until the entire furnace is loaded.

After that, the firing starts. It should be carried out to such an extent that the tiles come out slightly vitrified over the entire surface. Vitrification begins to appear when the tiles are slightly burned and the clay on the surface is sintered. In any case, it is better to burn the tiles a little than not to burn them. Tiling finish. Not always the tile turns out an even color. To remove the variegation, give the tile a more attractive appearance and improve its quality, the tile is subjected to various processing. One of them is glazing. Glaze is a special glassy layer that covers the surface of the tile during firing. The icing comes in a variety of colors, but the cheapest and most common colors are brown and tan. Glaze gives the tile a beautiful look and makes it stronger than unglazed tiles. However, glazing doubles the cost of shingles, which limits the use of this finish.

A more acceptable finish is engobing, that is, applying glaze to the tiles. Watering is made from a special red, completely pure fatty clay, which is first dried and ground, then diluted with water like thick milk and filtered through a fine sieve. Before firing, the dried tiles are dipped into this clay solution and re-placed on the drying shelves. When the tile dries again, it is loaded into the kiln and fired. After firing, the surface of the tile comes out all of an even red color. Watering improves the quality of tiles and increases their service life.

When the tiles are fired and cooled down, they begin to unload them from the kiln and sort them. Tiles for the roof of houses should be straight, evenly colored, sonorous, without cracks and broken corners. The rest of the shingles can be used to cover sheds and temporary roofs. Finished tiles are best stored under a canopy, protected from rain and snow. The bottom rows must be placed not on the ground, but on the boards. Covering the roof with tiles. Tiled roofs are fire resistant, durable, do not require painting or repair, and are very beautiful.

The steeper the slope of the roof, the better it is, since the snow will not linger on it, and the rain will quickly drain. But this rule is true only for certain climatic conditions (sloping low roofs, for example, are acceptable in southern hot areas) and the tiles used.

With flat tiles, the roof must have a rise of at least half the width of the building. The purlins under it are nailed according to the size of the tile, so that it is hooked with a spike at the top, lies on the lower bar and descends no more than 6 cm below it. Flat tiles are covered either in one layer or in two.

The first method is simple, but the roof turns out to be loose and, so that rain does not fall into the gaps between the tiles, strips of tin are placed under these gaps. The width of the strips should be from 9 to 11 cm, and the length should be 4 cm shorter than the tiles. Skates are covered with ridge tiles on moss mixed with clay or lime mortar.

A more durable and dense roof is obtained in two layers. But such a roof is heavier - about 200 tiles go per 1 m2, which weigh about 100 kg (with a single-layer laying - half as much).