Many gardeners from year to year plant beds with tasty and healthy vegetables. One of the most popular crops is the tomato. Each summer resident has his own, proven technology for harvesting. There are many procedures that, according to experienced gardeners, can increase the yield of vegetable crops. In this article, we will learn how to spud tomatoes and whether tomatoes spud at all.

Features of hilling a tomato

Timing and frequency

Spud tomatoes planted on suburban area or not is debatable. Some lovers of garden chores do not know anything about the hilling procedure and are quite satisfied with the harvest. The main goal of hilling tomatoes is to increase the number of new roots and strengthen the root system as a whole. If you decide to grow vegetables using the hilling procedure, then you should know some rules:

Please note: In total, you need to spud tomatoes 2 or 3 times during the season.

REFERENCE. If tubercles-roots do not appear on the stem, then hilling the plant is not necessary.

The hilling procedure promotes the development of additional roots, which allows you to grow a strong bush with a powerful root system and abundant fruiting.

Hilling tomatoes in a greenhouse

If tomatoes grow in a greenhouse, then you need to hill the tomatoes within 20-30 days after planting, after the appearance of additional roots, which must be covered with moist nutrient soil to stimulate their development.

With the help of a small chopper, the stem of the plant must be carefully covered with moist soil so that the future roots are completely covered with the substrate. If there is not enough soil for hilling in the greenhouse, it must be added.

IMPORTANT. The earth must be moist when hilling.

To prevent evaporation of moisture, it is better to mulch the mounds around the bushes. Peat, sawdust, tree bark or straw are suitable for this. After the procedure, the roots begin to actively develop, strengthening and supplying the plant with nutrients, which will significantly increase the yield of tomatoes.

Hilling tomatoes in open ground

2 days before hilling the tomato culture in open field, plants need to be well filled with water and only after that proceed with the procedure. Using a rake or chopper, gently rake the earth around each bush to the base of the trunk, while loosening and weeding the weeds. The groove formed around the tomato will retain water and protect the young roots from drying out. Hilling tomatoes in open ground is best done in the morning or evening, so the plant better adapts to changing growth conditions.

Hilling a tomato gives oxygen to the roots

Do I need to hill tomatoes or can I do without hilling

Experienced gardeners are sure that hilled tomatoes are much stronger and stronger than their counterparts, who independently coped with all stages of growth, flowering and fruiting. Hilled tomatoes get sick less and grow faster; their powerful root system is protected by a high mound of earth from the penetration of garden pests.

Many summer residents do without hilling. But as practice shows, the fruits collected from the hilled bushes are large, juicy and fragrant.

Video: Hilling a tomato, when, how and why

Accurate adherence to agricultural cultivation is the key to obtaining a decent crop of tomatoes. Hilling of tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open soil is one of the methods of cultivating a crop. In order to get the effect of it, you need to know well how to properly loosen tomatoes.

Basic description of culture

Tomatoes are a vegetable crop from the Solanaceae family, widely distributed in our country and around the world. The fruits of the plant are a berry with high palatability. The root system is highly branched, lies deep. The stem grows from 30 to 200 cm.

Brief Rationale

Hilling of tomatoes is usually classified as an optional agrotechnical measure. Many summer residents and gardeners try never to resort to its implementation during the season, because they do not see the benefit in this. However, tomatoes usually respond positively to hilling. The bushes accelerate growth and development. Plants begin to bloom better, become strong, powerful, fully developed, form an abundant and high-quality crop. Positive results are manifested during the procedure not only in open ground, but also in greenhouse and greenhouse conditions.

Tomatoes in a greenhouse

Benefits of the procedure

Hilling tomatoes with the timeliness and correctness of the implementation has a positive effect on the culture, in particular:

• protects the bush and root system from the adverse effects of the weather and climate environment;
• makes the stem stronger and more stable, does not allow it to bend or break under its own weight and crop, allows you to do without the necessary garter for undersized varieties;
• improves the supply of oxygen to the roots, without which they will not be able to fully grow and develop;
• reduces the risk of damage to bushes by fungal diseases and damage by pests, which develop better in conditions of waterlogged and poorly saturated soil;
• stimulates the formation of additional roots, which contributes to the entry of more nutrients into the bush and the preservation of a significant number of ovaries;
• promotes soil drainage and counteracts moisture stagnation in the soil, which is poorly tolerated by tomatoes, leads to decay and death of the root system, makes the fruits watery, devoid of taste;
• improves the warming of the soil by sunlight;
• reduces the number of weeds in the plot due to their damage during hilling.

Hilling during the period of pinching tomatoes allows them to take root. Due to this, it is possible to increase the area occupied by the crop, and to harvest a larger crop.

Timing and frequency of hilling

In order to understand whether it is necessary to hill the tomatoes, and determine the timing of the procedure, it is recommended to focus on the external signs and general condition of the plants in greenhouses or in the plot. A close examination of the bushes can be found near the base of the trunk small outgrowths, tubercles of white color. They represent an emerging additional root system in its infancy. This organ is formed in cases where the culture is deficient in nutrients. The appearance of such a symptom gives a signal of the need for an early hilling.

Important! Before these tubercles appear, this procedure is not recommended. The poured earth will block access to oxygen for the weak roots that have already appeared and provoke their decay and death.

Most often, the time of the first hilling occurs one and a half to two weeks after planting the plants in the ground. By this time, the seedlings are usually quite well adapted to the growing conditions.

Some time after planting and hilling, the base of the bush trunk will be covered with a bluish tint. This is a signal that the additional root system continues to develop normally and has begun to grow. Tomatoes should be spudded during this period, as this will benefit the plant.

Usually, two procedures per season are enough for tomatoes, and it is not recommended to carry out hilling too often. However, if additional roots continue to form, then the action is carried out again and again until the final formation of the additional root system is completed.

Hilling in the greenhouse

The question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes in a greenhouse or polycarbonate greenhouses should be answered positively. Before proceeding directly to the procedure, the soil must be shed abundantly. The need for this is due to the fact that particles of dried soil can injure the roots and the aerial part of the culture. Irrigation is recommended to be carried out a day before hilling.

The soil around the bush is carefully raked up to the stem base and a small hill no more than 8-10 cm high is made from it. For this, it is recommended to use a small special garden rake or hoe.

Additional mound

If there is not enough soil in the greenhouse to complete the process, nutrient soil should be added from another part of the garden. In this situation, the earth is poured around the bush to the required height.

Hilling tomatoes in a greenhouse is often complicated by the fact that the loose and well-structured soil in the greenhouse falls off the mound, due to which young roots are exposed. To prevent this from happening, you should install special props from pieces of plywood or slate. A good solution in this case is the use of roofing material. From the material, you can cut pieces of the required size, which are folded into a cylinder and placed around the bushes. In such conditions, it is very convenient to control the height of the embankment.

Hilling in open ground

In an open plot, pre-moistening of the soil plays an even more important role. It is necessary to water for at least two days, or you can spud tomatoes after heavy rain stops.

Note! Hilling tomatoes in the open field, combined with weeding plantings, will save a lot of time.

It is necessary to know exactly at what distance the loosening of tomatoes is carried out. It is about 20 cm from the plant. The soil is carefully raked up to the bush. Care must be taken not to damage the roots in the process.

Hilling tomatoes

When raking the soil, it is recommended to build shallow grooves in the soil near the mound. During irrigation or precipitation, moisture will accumulate in these recesses, which will keep the soil in a slightly moist state for a long time, which will allow the crop to endure dry conditions without problems.

Additional Information! In the process of hilling, it is recommended to add a small amount of humus and / or compost to the soil.

It is better to spud in the early morning or in the evening. The weather should be as cloudy as possible. Such conditions will allow the bushes to adapt more easily and quickly to the updated cultivation conditions.

Cultivation without hilling

In some cases, it is allowed to cultivate tomatoes without raking the soil near the stem of the bushes. To do this, you need to make sure that the plants are fully developed and do not need an additional influx of nutrition. This can be set using the following features:

• powerful developed stem without root primordia;
• good, abundant flowering;
• bright green foliage without signs of chlorosis;
• a large number of fruit ovaries.

In order to achieve such success, it is necessary to feed the plants competently and in a timely manner, as well as follow all other agrotechnical recommendations. However, hilling will always benefit the culture.

The effect of hilling tomatoes is not only to improve nutrition. This procedure should become increasingly important among summer residents and gardeners.

Before answering the question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes, let's look at the very definition of this word. Hilling is the loosening and rolling of the earth, preferably wet, to the lower parts of the plant.

Why is this being done?

Firstly, in order to provide air access to the roots. This is achieved by loosening the soil during hilling. Secondly, to further develop and strengthen the root system of the plant. The stronger it is, the better the plant absorbs nutrients. Thirdly, when tomatoes are spudded, water after watering or rain accumulates in the pits between the mounds. This retains moisture until the next watering and prevents the plant from drying out. This is especially true in hot weather and in cases where watering the plant cannot be provided daily. Fourthly, hilling protects against the penetration of various pests into the stems.

When do tomatoes spud?

If you notice some tubercles at the bottom of the stem, almost near the ground, especially during the flowering period of tomatoes, then it's time for hilling. The tubercles are an additional root system. And as soon as you sprinkle them with earth, roots will immediately begin to appear from them. Such a situation, by the way, may be a signal that the plant lacks nutrition, and in order to help itself, it begins to look for additional ways to obtain these nutrients.

But is it necessary to always hill tomatoes?

No not always. If your tomatoes do not have the tubercles described above, then you do not need to spud such a plant. Otherwise, you will simply block the passage of air to the existing roots. When spud tomatoes, follow some rules. The ground must be moist. Most best time for hilling - this is the period after rain or watering. It is best to do this with a chopper. With its help, you redistribute the soil between the rows closer to the base of the plant. This must be done very carefully so as not to hurt the existing roots. You simultaneously loosen the soil and increase air permeability to the roots. First you need to process a row of tomatoes on one side, and then go to the other side, so that the result is some kind of mounds near each bush.

How often should plants be hilled?

In general, ideally, you need to spud tomatoes 2-3 times per season. The first time you need to do this procedure 10-15 days after planting the plant in the ground. Although this is a conditional term. But hilling, as you remember, should be carried out only if an additional root system at the stem has begun to develop. And this can happen either earlier or later. The second hilling is carried out only when the lower part of the stem turns blue in the plant. It also speaks of the development of the root system. When tomatoes are spudded, and there is not enough land in the beds, then it is worth borrowing it from another place. If the tomatoes are not covered with the necessary layer of earth, they will begin to dry out from lack of moisture. All of the above are just tips to help gardeners. And the decision on hilling is up to you.

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How to care for tomatoes after planting seedlings in open ground

Good seedlings are the key to a good harvest, but not proper care for tomatoes after planting them in open ground can nullify all your efforts to grow seedlings. In order to prevent various diseases of tomatoes, falling flowers, reducing yields, deteriorating the taste and size of fruits, tomatoes in the garden must be properly cared for. What is the care of tomatoes after planting seedlings in open ground? Let's consider this question in detail.

Watering a tomato after planting in open ground

The first time after planting seedlings in the ground, until the plants take root in a new place, it is better not to water them. Water poured into the hole during planting is enough for tomatoes to root and start growing. A couple of weeks after planting, you can make the first watering.

You need to water the tomatoes under the root, trying to avoid getting water on the leaves - this makes the tomatoes sick. It is extremely undesirable to water tomatoes by sprinkling, since with such irrigation the temperature of air and soil drops sharply, which leads to shedding of flowers, delaying the setting and ripening of fruits. Due to the simultaneous increase in air humidity, tomatoes are affected by fungal diseases. The best time for watering tomatoes in the garden is in the afternoon. This avoids excessive loss of water to evaporation.

From the moment the seedlings are planted in the ground and up to the set of fruits on the first inflorescences, it is not worth getting carried away with watering the tomato. It is only necessary to moisten the soil, preventing it from drying out.

When fruit growth begins, the need for water increases dramatically. During this period, watering should be carried out often and regularly, trying to maintain soil moisture at the same level. A change in soil moisture can cause stunting of green fruits, cracking of mature tomatoes and, in combination with other unfavorable factors, cause the spread of blossom end rot.

Soil loosening

After each watering a tomato, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the plant. In this case, of course, it is necessary to destroy the grown weeds. The first loosening of a tomato is carried out to a depth of 8–12 cm: such deep loosening creates favorable conditions in the upper soil layer for warming it up and saturating it with oxygen, which is important for tomatoes at the beginning of the growing season. In the future, the soil is loosened to a depth of 4 - 5 cm. It is impossible to allow soil compaction - this is bad for the tomato root system.

hilling tomato

Summer residents often have the question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes. Recently, many people have appeared who consider hilling an unnecessary procedure. However, growing a tomato with hilling has its advantages:

• hilling contributes to the enrichment of the soil with oxygen;
• hilling stimulates the development of the tomato root system, the growth of additional roots, and the strengthening of the stem;
• hilling improves plant nutrition;
• as a result of hilling, grooves are formed between the mounds, in which, after watering, water accumulates and is retained for a long time.

To finally decide whether to spud tomatoes or not, take a close look at the plants. If adventitious roots appear on the stem near the ground, the tomatoes must be spudded, as they need additional nutrition. You can see how these roots look in the video. If the stem does not have these tubercles, then the tomato should not be hilled, as this will make it difficult for air to penetrate to the already existing roots.

It is desirable to spud tomatoes 2 - 3 times per season. You can see how to properly spud tomatoes in the video.

Soil mulching

To reduce the number of waterings and accelerate the ripening of fruits, tomatoes can be mulched, that is, lay peat, straw, sawdust in the aisle. Green manures are especially well suited for this purpose. You can grow tomatoes right on the site sown with green manure. Do I need to clear the bed for tomatoes, and spread the unnecessary green manure between the rows as mulch. Supporters of natural farming convince that green manure has a very positive effect on tomato yields. They loosen and enrich the soil, retain moisture in it, and prevent the growth of weeds. The use of green manure allows you to refuse to introduce chemical fertilizers into the soil. See the video for the use of green manure as an organic tomato mulch.

Top dressing tomato in the garden

In order to receive good harvest, tomatoes after planting in the ground must be periodically fed. Usually, when growing a tomato in a garden, 4 basal top dressings are carried out. Feeding options can be different, consider one of them:

• First dressing carried out 3 weeks after planting the tomato in the ground: Composition: 1 tablespoon of Ideal liquid fertilizer + 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution per tomato.
• Second dressing tomato carried out when the second flower brush begins to bloom. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of "Agricola - Vegeta" + 1 tablespoon of superphosphate + 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. Another option: 1 tablespoon of Signor Tomato fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Dosage: 1 liter of solution for each tomato bush.
• Third dressing tomato carried out, the third flower brush blooms. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of liquid "Sodium Humate" or "Ideal" fertilizer + 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. Dosage: 5 liters of solution for each square meter beds.
• Fourth dressing tomato held two weeks after the third. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. Dosage: 10 liters of solution per square meter of bed.

To feed a tomato in the garden, you can also use bird droppings. This is an excellent balanced fertilizer, which contains all the necessary trace elements. To prepare the nutrient solution, fill a barrel or other container halfway with bird droppings and fill to the brim with water. Let the solution sit for three days. After excision of this period, dilute the concentrate with water in a ratio of 1:15. You need to feed the tomatoes at the rate of 3 liters of solution for each bush.

The ash solution not only prevents various diseases of tomatoes, but also nourishes them perfectly. Spraying should be done every 2 weeks.

Weak and retarded tomatoes it is recommended, in addition to root dressings, to carry out additional foliar top dressing i.e. spraying. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of urea or Ideal fertilizer in 10 liters of water and spray the leaves with the resulting solution.

Formation of tomato bushes

In order to increase productivity, improve the quality of fruits and accelerate the ripening process, they are shaped in a special way. To do this, pinching and pinching tomatoes is carried out. Many varieties of tomato, especially large-fruited ones, need pasynkovanie. In stepchildren and pinched tomatoes, nutrients are spent mainly on the formation and filling of fruits, from which they increase in size and ripen earlier than usual. However, there are tomato varieties that are grown without pinching.

There are various ways to form tomato bushes: in one, two or three stems. After pinching and pinching, 5-6 fruit brushes and at least 30-35 leaves should remain on the bush. Stepsons need to be broken off, not cut off. In their place, small columns a couple of centimeters long are left. When pinching, it is necessary to avoid getting the juice of the plant on the fingers, because with it, in case of illness, the infection can be transferred to other tomatoes.

Formation of a tomato bush in one stem: remove from the main stem all lateral shoots (the so-called stepchildren) that form in the axil of each leaf, and leave 5-6 fruit clusters on the main shoot. Make a pinch over the last (top) flower brush and leave 2-3 leaves on it.

Formation of a tomato bush in two stems: remove all side shoots from the main stem, except for what grows under the first flower brush. Leave 4 fruit clusters on the main stem and pinch off the top, leaving 3 leaves. On the side shoot, leave 3 fruit brushes and pinch too, leaving 2-3 leaves.

Formation of a tomato bush in three stems: remove all side shoots from the main stem, except for the two lower ones. Leave 2-3 fruit clusters on the main stem, remove the rest. On stepchildren, leave 2 fruit brushes each and pinch so that there are 2-3 leaves above the upper fruit brushes.

You can see what stepchildren are and how to remove them in the video.

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Do I need to spud tomatoes

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Hilling tomatoes is very useful, but only if done in a timely manner. Tomato seedlings after planting take root 7-10 days. And two weeks later, at the bottom of the stem, s

Hilling tomatoes - what a noob needs to know?

Zhanna S

Regarding creeping raspberries, I support Abos-
the main reason is shading. If in the sun, inadequate nutrition and care.
Pruning time depends on the variety of raspberries.

If single fruiting,
fruiting shoots are cut out after the berries ripen.
New ones are formed from young ones.

Repeated fruiting (remontant) - there are options.
1. After fruiting, cut last year's shoots,
the young growers will have a second harvest,
leave them for the first wave of fruiting next year.
2. Some people cut everything down to the soil level in autumn.
The following year, one, later, crop is obtained on young shoots.
In the second half of summer, it is useful to pinch young shoots,
to trigger a branch.
It is useful to spud tomatoes.
This should be done from the moment when the plant is well rooted and started to grow. "Refresh" after each watering and rain.
BUT, if you have already spud, make sure that the top layer of the earth does not dry out.
Since the dried up extra. roots, the plant will suffer.

@lk@

tomatoes are tied up, not spudded, this is not a potato))))))))

Gene Abos

Hilling gives the plant the opportunity to form adventitious roots. The bush becomes stronger and more powerful due to additional roots.
And raspberries creep, maybe because of the shade.

Evgeniya Taratutina

I don’t spud tomatoes - the earth is sand - it makes no sense. It blurs right there. And raspberries need to be tied up so that they do not creep.

Vladimir Bendrikov

When I loosen the soil around the tomatoes, it turns out that I sort of spud them. But when planting, I deepen the seedlings to the crown, then it will be unnecessary to spud. Raspberries are probably too densely planted that the stem is too thin, because of this it may lie down. Tie each bush into a bundle, just do not tighten it too much, the branches will support each other themselves.

Do tomatoes need to be ground?

designer

Tomatoes of the nightshade family, spud - more roots, more roots - better nutrition ...

XRUST

of course yes

Natalya Mozheva

No. usually spud only potatoes. and tomatoes are sprayed and fertilized, watered

Practicing wit!

Certainly! throw them boldly with droppings, and then eat! Bon appetit!

zenababa

More as needed!

oleg doroshenko

Necessarily!

bear on vacation

If they are spudded, they will spend their energy on the formation of additional roots, and not on the harvest.

Hedgehog

desirable. . the formation of new roots will only increase the yield

Oksanka Maglysh

It is better to initially deepen when landing. If you spud when watering, little moisture will get under the tomato, which is not good!

Mityai Bukhankin

optional, whatever you like. for a tomato, excessive hilling is a delay in fruiting, time is lost for the formation of roots. tomatoes are already planted deep into the ground and at an angle, this is enough.

hope kozlova

Tomatoes must be spudded after watering, because he needs air access to the roots.

inten

You can, but not necessarily, and so they will grow. In general - more roots - a better harvest.

Tane4ka

When planting, I plant either deep or at an angle and never spud. Tomato full

Harpy

I will only say to some agrarians - no plant ever spends its strength on root formation in such a way that it somehow negatively affects the growth or delay in productivity. Damn .. some kind of nonsense .. The root .. barely hatching on the stem, is already beginning to feed the plant. And the more these roots a plant has, the better it is ALWAYS. This is an axiom in botany.

Is it necessary to spud cucumbers? After a downpour, some relied ...

Vasily Kushnir

I do this: We plant them in grooves, as we grow, we pour in the ground - the roots turn out to be well deepened. As a result, to a fairly decent height, everything changes places - cucumbers grow from tubercles with grooves between the rows. Water is poured into the grooves. Tapestries (grids) are placed between the rows, along which they twist. The cucumber hangs on a trellis without touching the ground, always clean and ready to eat (it's nice to eat freshly picked from a bush).

Agnieszka

No. They are never rounded up.

Valentina Timofeeva

you can loosen, but do not damage the roots, otherwise they will stand up on their own

Silver Shadow

No, they do not have aerial roots. like tomatoes.

Hedgehog

no loosening, no hilling is necessary. . roots are superficial.. easy to damage

Lidia Gultyaeva

Do not loosen, but mulch. Eg. cut grass.

Ekaterina Lyakh

Be sure to bump.

Nikolai Tsuprunov

If cucumbers grow on a trellis, and especially in a greenhouse, cucumbers rejuvenate in the middle of the growing season. The lower leaves are removed. The rope is lowered down and covered with earth. Cucumbers have the opportunity to grow up to form new lashes.

margot

Of course, sprinkle with earth, otherwise they were exposed with water

Lyubov Danilova

FROM experience. Once, like this, I raked up the land, sprinkled it, the roots began to rot. You can sprinkle them a little with humus, but it’s better not to touch them. Did the plants die after the rain? But they can be grown not only on a trellis, but also creeping along the ground - and there is less hassle.

Tatiana B

I add earth when I see bare roots. I don’t spud, but I bring the earth and sprinkle it. I have never perished, although I live in the Baltic states.

elena orlova

if the earth is nailed, then it is necessary to loosen and mulch, you were rightly told, just mulching on the nailed ground will not give an effect, it will only retain moisture on the surface, and having mulched, at least you will never have to loosen the mowed grass, and I would not advise hilling if there is moisture there will be a lot, then rotting is possible

Withering and drying leaves are a distress signal from plants. Many summer residents and gardeners, planting tomatoes in greenhouses and greenhouses, hope that they will grow and bear fruit here better than on unprotected ground. However, very often their hopes are not justified, because the tomato in the greenhouse begins to wither, dry, get sick, and stops growing. What is the reason for such behavior of plants, which, it would seem, have created ideal conditions?

Plant diseases

Let's see what diseases can occur in tomatoes when grown in a greenhouse.

Fusarium

The most common disease is Fusarium wilt of tomatoes. In the southern regions of our country, it affects plants in open ground, and in middle latitudes - mainly in greenhouses, since the Fusarium soil fungus is located in the soil and develops at a temperature of 25-30 degrees.

And the high humidity inherent in the microclimate of greenhouses accelerates the development of the disease. Fusarium wilt begins with the root neck. Signs of the disease are detected when the lower leaves begin to wither, and an accumulation of fungi in the form of a red plaque appears in the area of ​​​​the root neck. Over time, all other leaves become chlorotic - yellowish in color and also wither.

If a greenhouse tomato has acquired fruits by this time, the disease also affects them, as the pathogen spreads through the vessels of the plant. There are other tomato diseases, such as bacterial canker, and most of them cannot be cured. But you can prevent their occurrence.

Prevention measures

To avoid diseases, you should follow certain rules for growing tomatoes:

• Since Fusarium pathogens accumulate in the soil, it is impossible to plant tomatoes every year in the same place. Crop rotation should be at least 3-4 years. If the greenhouse is small and intended only for growing tomatoes, it will either have to be moved to another place every year, or the soil in it will be completely changed.

Attention! Do not transfer the greenhouse to the area where potatoes grew - it is subject to the same diseases as greenhouse tomatoes.

Do I need to plant tomatoes?

• Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to disinfect the soil in the greenhouse by spilling it with a solution blue vitriol. To prepare a solution, 70-80 grams of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

The disinfection of the greenhouse itself at the beginning of the season will not hurt either.

• Plants can also get sick from excess nitrogen, so do not get carried away with feeding them with fresh manure (see Top dressing of tomatoes in a greenhouse, what fertilizers and when to use). Dissolve 2 tablespoons in a bucket of water and pour the tomatoes under the root, pouring one liter of solution under each plant. As the tomatoes grow, it is necessary to hill them up so that the ground level above the root collar is 10-15 cm. After harvesting, tomato tops should be destroyed.

The most important! Do not try to save diseased plants - this is impossible. They must be immediately removed and destroyed, and the ground must be disinfected so that the pathogen does not spread to other bushes.

Other reasons

To answer the question of why tomatoes wither in a greenhouse, you need to know the conditions for their "keeping". Some reasons may be related specifically to growing in a greenhouse, some - with improper care. Let's list the main ones.

Wrong watering

The correct watering regime is an important condition for growing tomatoes. They suffer from both a lack and an excess of moisture, which can lead to root rot and wilting of plants. The frequency of watering depends on the age of the plants:

• Young, densely planted seedlings should be watered a little every day, choosing the morning hours for this. Sprouted seedlings are watered as the soil dries out - once every few days. Adult plants need watering once a week, but very plentiful, so that the earth is well wet.

The photo shows how it is impossible to water tomatoes - this should be done at the root. The instruction for proper watering says that the water must be warm, settled. And some time after it, you need to arrange a draft in the greenhouse by opening the door and the window in order to reduce the humidity of the air.

lack of light

Tomatoes need a lot of sunlight. It may not penetrate well into the greenhouse if it has high humidity and water drops condense on the roof and walls, so there must be good ventilation (see Ventilation in a greenhouse with your own hands is possible).

When growing a tomato in a greenhouse out of season, there may not be enough light due to the short daylight hours. In this case, additional illumination is required.

Above the seedlings you need to hang a lamp with fluorescent lamps power of 18 W, and illuminate the plants up to 14-16 hours a day. Advice. To increase the intensity of the light, white paper or foil can be placed on the floor of the greenhouse as a reflector. The price of such an improvement is small, but the effect is magnificent.

Overheat

Despite the thermophilicity, tomatoes do not tolerate prolonged exposure to high temperatures. Under such conditions, plants spend all their energy on breathing, stop growing and wither - their leaves turn yellow, and buds, flowers and ovaries fall off.

When the temperature rises to 38-40 degrees, the leaves begin to fall off. Some summer residents bring plants to such a state with their own hands, believing that the hotter they are, the better.

In fact, for normal growth and ripening of fruits, it is enough to maintain the temperature in the greenhouse at 23-25 ​​degrees during the day, and at night reduce it to 16-18. In hot weather, it is better to remove the film from the frame greenhouse altogether. Therefore, place a thermometer in the greenhouse and carefully monitor testimony. In case of overheating, make drafts. Tip.

Try to make sure that the air movement occurs on the upper and middle tiers, and not along the bottom. Draft at ground level quickly dries the soil.

Conclusion

Any of the problems described above, or a combination of them, can cause tomatoes to wither in greenhouses, but every gardener can prevent them from appearing. Perhaps the information from the video clip presented in this article can help you with this.

Growing a tomato. "Hilling". When planting normal tomato seedlings on a garden bed, only the pot is buried in the soil. And after 15-20 days, the plants “spud”, or rather, they rake the ground to them to a height of 7-8 cm.

A fairly spacious planting of plants in a garden bed makes this easy to do. But it is quite difficult to rake up the ground for tomatoes, especially tall ones, in an amateur greenhouse, sometimes it is simply impossible, they are planted too densely. It is much easier and more efficient to carry out such "hilling" with the help of "boxes" from a container board or "glasses" from roofing material.

For tall, powerful plants, it is most convenient to make these boxes right at the “workplace” around a plant 30x30 cm in size and 10 cm high. With an interval of 2-3 days, these boxes must be filled with a mixture of humus and peat with a layer 2 cm thick in order to gradually form the same multi-tiered root system, as when planting tomatoes in a hole. But since the boxes are above ground level, unlike deep planting, the soil mixture in them constantly warms up to 30-35 ° C, which requires frequent watering. But it is precisely such a high soil temperature and frequent watering that create conditions in them close to tropical.

At the same time, plants form powerful thick roots that go deep into the ground. Tomatoes do not suffer from soil fatigue, so they can be grown in the same place for several years. Even light frosts completely destroy tomatoes. They need to be planted in warm soil and air.

Tomatoes can be planted a little deeper than they grew in a pot. Laying manure at the bottom of the planting pits is not correct. Mulching with manure will have a positive effect. In tall tomatoes, it is better to leave one stem, it is easier to care for and harvesting starts earlier.

In tall tomatoes, stepchildren must constantly be removed and tied up. It is better to pinch with a pruner so as not to inadvertently injure the stem of the plant, it is better not to break out the stepson, but pinch it, leaving a piece of the stem, then a new stepson will not appear in this place in the future.

I gradually remove the lower leaves as well. The first bunch of tomatoes has formed, I remove all the leaves from below, but I also can’t get carried away with removing the leaves, the leaves are the food of the plant. You don’t need to tie up the plants too tight, given its further growth and thickening of the stem. At the end of August, the top of the shoots can be pinched off, above the newly started bunch, because. subsequent fruits that are formed will not have time to ripen, and it is necessary to leave strength to the plant for the ripening of those already started.

Do I need to plant tomatoes? If so, when and how to spud tomatoes?

spring948374 2 years ago

Do tomatoes need hilling? If yes, then why how to plant tomatoes?

Dmitry1978 2 years ago

Good day! To be honest, in my latitudes, tomatoes are grown only in a greenhouse. Or they do something like a greenhouse, enclosing them with a structure of wooden sticks and covering them with cellophane at night. And yet I have never seen them spud.

Good soil is usually specially laid in the greenhouse and the only thing that is done is occasionally weeded from weeds. Well, watered accordingly.

the system voted this answer as thel-ik Hilling promotes the formation of an extensive root system in a tomato. It is also desirable to mulch so that the earth retains moisture longer and the soil is loose-2 years ago

Judging by the way we grow tomatoes in Siberia, and they do it exclusively in greenhouses, then this technique (according to the experience of my wife and neighbors, as well as on the advice of specialists) do the following: when the seedlings are planted in a greenhouse, it is necessary to shed and loosen, you can do mulching on the rhizome the earth should be loose and moist. We can say that this hilling we all do this procedure several times a season, then the tomatoes turn out to be very juicy and odorous.

Comment Article

Before answering the question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes, let's look at the very definition of this word. Hilling is the loosening and rolling of the earth, preferably wet, to the lower parts of the plant. Firstly, in order to provide air access to the roots.

This is achieved by loosening the soil during hilling. Secondly, to further develop and strengthen the root system of the plant. The stronger it is, the better the plant absorbs nutrients.

Thirdly, when tomatoes are spudded, water after watering or rain accumulates in the pits between the mounds. This retains moisture until the next watering and prevents the plant from drying out.

This is especially true in hot weather and in cases where watering the plant cannot be provided daily. Fourthly, hilling protects against penetration of various pests into the stems. If you notice some tubercles in the lower part of the stem, almost near the ground, especially during the flowering period of tomatoes, then it's time for hilling.

The tubercles are an additional root system. And as soon as you sprinkle them with earth, roots will immediately begin to appear from them.

Such a situation, by the way, may be a signal that the plant lacks nutrition, and in order to help itself, it begins to look for additional ways to obtain these nutrients. But is it necessary to always spud tomatoes? No, not always. If your tomatoes do not have the tubercles described above, then you do not need to spud such a plant.

Otherwise, you will simply block the passage of air to the existing roots. When spud tomatoes, follow some rules. The ground must be moist. The best time for hilling is the period after rain or watering.

It is best to do this with a chopper. With its help, you redistribute the soil between the rows closer to the base of the plant. This must be done very carefully so as not to hurt the existing roots. You simultaneously loosen the soil and increase air permeability to the roots.

First you need to process a row of tomatoes on one side, and then go to the other side, so that as a result some mounds are obtained near each bush. How often should plants be hilled? The first time you need to do this procedure 10-15 days after planting the plant in the ground.

Although this is a conditional term. But hilling, as you remember, should be carried out only if an additional root system at the stem has begun to develop. And this can happen either earlier or later.

The second hilling is carried out only when the lower part of the stem turns blue in the plant. It also speaks of the development of the root system. When tomatoes are spudded, and there is not enough land in the beds, then it is worth borrowing it from another place.

If the tomatoes are not covered with the necessary layer of earth, they will begin to dry out from lack of moisture. All of the above are just tips to help gardeners. And the decision on hilling is up to you.

Secret 1: useful spraying

To increase the yield of tomato bushes, during the flowering of the second and third flower brushes, it is very good to spray the plants with a weak solution boric acid. Boron will "help" pollen germination, fruit set and growth.

Along with this, it will also stimulate the formation of new growth points, and will contribute to an increase in sugar in fruits. Just imagine: using this tip, you can increase the yield of your tomatoes by 20%!

• Recipe

Dilute 10 grams of boric acid powder in 10 liters of water. It is enough to spray 1-2 times.

Secret 2: a little shake

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants, and in natural conditions they are pollinated by wind and insects without any special complications. But tomatoes grown in greenhouses are less fortunate: natural factors - wind and flying helpers - are absent, and it will not be superfluous to help pollinate bushes "living under a roof".

Moreover, this process is quite simple. It is enough to shake the flower brushes a little every few days. Experienced gardeners advise immediately after shaking all the bushes to spray the flowers or water the soil, and after 1.5-2 hours ventilate the greenhouse.

Secret 3: tricky geography

If you grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, then the ideal option would be to arrange the plantings “in latitude” - from east to west. This orientation will provide more uniform solar illumination of all bushes; they will be well warmed up by the sun in the morning and minimally obscured by neighboring rows at noon. As a result - an increase in the length of daylight hours and an increase in yield)

Secret 4: strong roots

No one will even argue: the stronger and stronger the root, the more fruits it can provide with food, and the larger these fruits can be. And what can we do to “strengthen” the root system of a tomato bush?

Spud

Hilling, it turns out, also has its secrets. Hilling is necessary at the time of root growth ... but the roots of tomatoes do not grow continuously, but in periods.

It happens like this: first, the roots grow intensively, then they slow down their growth, and the vegetative mass begins to actively grow. Then the growth of the roots is activated again - until the moment when flowering and fruit set begin.

As soon as this process has begun, the roots again slow down their growth. The time when it is time to spud will be prompted by the plants themselves.

Watch the stem: if small bulges, similar to pimples, appear on the ground itself, it means that you can spud for the first time (necessarily with wet ground, not dry!). And when the stem near the ground changed color from green to bluish, it tells you that the time has come for the second hilling. If you follow this and do everything in a timely manner, the tomato will be able to maximize the root system, thereby providing more strength for the crop!

Mulch

No one doubts the benefits of mulching for a long time. Under the protective layer of mulch, soil crust does not form, moisture is retained, soil structure is not disturbed, weeds do not germinate and roots are not exposed when watering. That's the whole secret: one mulch - but a lot of benefits!

Summer residents testify: competent mulching can increase the yield of a bush ... by 25-30%! How can you mulch tomatoes?

Hay, straw, compost, sawdust, newsprint, leaf litter, grass clippings, tree bark, needles, peat, and even your own leaves. The main thing is to choose the right mulch for your conditions and apply it correctly. In the next video, Valery Medvedev talks about mulching tomatoes with forest land

Secret 5: "own land"

Some experienced summer residents have noticed that tomatoes love to grow very much ... on their tops! If in the fall all healthy tops are collected, crushed and planted in the soil, then next spring it will be the best place for young tomato seedlings. And if, on the advice of our summer residents, you dare to put one small fresh fish under the roots of seedlings, the harvest is already 50% guaranteed))

Secret 6: stepchildren

Pasynkovanie is the removal of excess shoots. (Everything is according to a fairy tale story: the stepdaughter goes to the forest so that the daughter gets more goodness). In the tomato business, this just works: the plant stops expending energy and nutrients on excess greenery and concentrates only on “useful activity” - the fulfillment of the harvest plan. Stepchildren also have their own secrets: not all stepsons are removed to the stem, they do not do it at any time, and not all bushes stepchild equally:

• so that stepchildren do not grow back, their not completely removed, to the stem, and leave a "stump" of 0.5-1 cm
• pinching tomatoes in the open field can be done once for the entire season, or you can do it regularly - as stepchildren appear.

In the next video - a lesson on the correct pinching of interdeterminant and determinant tomato varieties.

Secret 7: Removing Leaves

In addition to pinching, leaves are cut off from tomato bushes during the fruiting period. This is done so that the plant gives all its strength to flowers and fruits. In addition, the lower leaves, in contact with the ground, can become a conductor of infection.

Experienced summer residents advise cutting off 1-3 lower leaves every week from the middle (end) of June until the first inflorescence. Then the tomatoes will be "ventilated", and the extra load from the bushes is removed. How many leaves to remove from a bush - each summer resident decides for himself.

There is one rule that will help you navigate: until all the fruits are tied in the brush, all the leaves should be “available” on top (above the brush). It is recommended to remove the leaves in dry, warm weather, in the morning, so that the wound has time to heal and does not become a gateway for infection.

The following video will introduce us to the leaf pruning system of greenhouse grown tomatoes. The pruning lesson is conducted by Valery Medvedev (directly about pruning leaves - from 3.41)

Secret 8: foliar top dressing

If you consider foliar feeding not a particularly important procedure - in vain. Simply spraying the green part of the tomato with micronutrient solutions will help you get an earlier harvest, and the plant will get an “extra nutrient ration” and protection from diseases! It is best to carry out foliar top dressing every 7-9 days in calm weather in the evenings. What to use for foliar top dressing

• urea (per 10 l - 1 teaspoon) potassium nitrate or potassium monophosphate (per 10 l - 1 teaspoon) calcium nitrate (per 10 l - 1 teaspoon) 1 liter of serum + 20 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water

Foliar top dressing delivers nutrients to the plant body much faster than root top dressing. Alternating the proposed compositions, or stopping at 1-2 of your choice, you will do your bit to increase the yield.

Secret 9: Fruit Dessert

Some inexperienced summer residents during the fruiting period begin to intensively feed tomato bushes with organic matter and all kinds of fertilizers - “so that there is enough strength!”. Just don't need to do this. Enhanced top dressing was needed for active vegetation, but during the period when the plants enter the fruiting season, we can recommend the following nutrition:

• Recipe 1: Ash

on moist soil, sprinkle dry ash under the tomato bushes at the rate of 3-4 tablespoons per 1 sq. m. Such top dressing will also add sweetness to the fruits of tomatoes. Ashes can be "treated" tomatoes until the end of fruiting with a frequency of 2 weeks.

• Recipe 2: mineral cocktail

Pour 2 liter cans of ash with 5 liters of boiling water, after cooling, bring the volume to 10 liters + 10 g of boric acid powder + 10 ml of iodine (bottle). Leave the solution for 1 day. The resulting infusion is diluted 10 times.

Feeding rate - 1 liter for each bush.

• Recipe 3: Yeast

In a glass 3-liter jar, put 100 g of live yeast + 0.5 cups of sugar. Add settled warm water almost to the top, put in a warm place for fermentation. Shake occasionally until fermentation is complete.

Use the resulting "mash" for feeding at the rate of 1 cup per 10 liters of water. Feed with this fertilizer once at the rate of 1 liter under a bush. You can read more about feeding tomatoes throughout the season here.

Hilling tomatoes is not considered an obligatory event by gardeners, and some of them never resort to this procedure at all, considering it a waste of time. However, practice shows that tomatoes, like their closest "relative" potatoes, gratefully respond to hilling with rapid growth and proper development. The bushes grow strong, healthy and bear fruit abundantly. The procedure shows good results both in the cultivation of tomatoes in open ground and in greenhouse conditions. But the final decision on hilling still remains with the gardener.

Timing and frequency

When determining the time of hilling, one should focus on appearance tomatoes. Looking closely at the plants, you can see on some of them small tubercles-growths of white color at the base of the stem. These are the rudiments of an additional root system that appear when the seedling does not have enough nutrition for good growth. The formation of such tubercles is a signal of malnutrition and the need for hilling.

Usually, the procedure is carried out for the first time 10-12 days after planting seedlings in the ground. At this point, young tomatoes should already adapt to a new place. Important! Before the appearance of rudimentary tubercles, it is not necessary to hill the plants - a piled mound of soil will block the access of oxygen to existing, but still fragile roots. When the base of the stem acquires a bluish tint, the procedure is repeated. The appearance of blue indicates that the additional root system has begun to grow, and repeated hilling will stimulate its development.

As a rule, two-time hilling per season is enough for tomatoes. But! If the plant continues to form root rudiments, the procedure is carried out until the additional root system is completely formed.

What does the hilling procedure give?

Timely and competently carried out hilling simultaneously performs several basic, vital functions for plants:

• Increases the protection of the stem from adverse climatic and atmospheric influences.
• The development of an additional root system is stimulated, due to which the supply of nutrients increases, the lack of which often leads to the release of a large number of ovaries.
• The stem is stabilized. An important factor for tomatoes. Due to the additional roots, the plant becomes more stable and does not fall under its own weight. Tomatoes of undersized varieties in this case do not even need to be tied up.
• Soil drainage is carried out, preventing stagnation of excess moisture, which tomatoes do not like very much. From a long stay in waterlogged soil, their roots quickly rot, and the fruits become watery and tasteless.
• Aeration improves, the soil is enriched with oxygen, necessary for the full development of the roots.
• More loose and breathable earth is better warmed by the sun.
• The likelihood of dangerous fungal diseases and insect pest attacks, the development of which is facilitated by waterlogging and poor aeration of the soil, is reduced.
• The number of weeds is reduced, since in the process of hilling most of their seedlings are seriously damaged.

On a note! Hilling during the formation of stepson shoots contributes to their rooting. By planting new plants (rooted stepchildren), you can significantly expand the tomato "plantation" and get an additional crop.

Hilling tomatoes in a greenhouse

For hilling tomatoes in a greenhouse, a day before the procedure, abundant watering is carried out so that the very dry soil does not injure the embryonic roots and stem. Using a small hoe or rake, the soil is carefully raked to the base of the stem and a mound 7–10 cm high is formed around it. If there is not enough greenhouse soil, it is allowed to use a previously prepared nutrient substrate from another part of the garden. In this case, the soil is simply poured under the bush to the desired height.

So that loose greenhouse soil does not slip, exposing young roots, earthen mounds can be strengthened with pieces of slate or plywood. It is very convenient to use an old roofing felt for this purpose - pieces of the desired width, rolled into cylinders, are installed around the tomato bushes. In such "glasses" it is not difficult to control the height of the bedding.

Hilling tomatoes in open ground

In open ground, tomatoes are spudded a day or two after heavy watering or heavy rain. To save time, the procedure is combined with weeding the beds. Trying not to damage the roots, the soil within a radius of 20 cm around the bush is raked to the base of the stem, while loosening it. A useful function is also performed by the grooves formed in the process of raking the soil. Accumulating in them, irrigation or rain water for a long period keeps the soil slightly moist, helping the plants to painlessly survive the drought until the next moisture arrives. During hilling under plants, it is useful to add a little compost or humus.

When planning hilling, the procedure should be scheduled for the early morning or evening cool hours, so that the plants are more comfortable adapting to new growth conditions.

Is it possible to do without hilling?

This quite logical question can be answered positively only if the growth and development of tomatoes take place in accordance with all agrotechnical standards. The comfortable well-being of plants is indicated by such external signs as a thick fleshy stem without rudiments of roots, rich color of leaves, an abundance of flowers and fruit ovaries. Such results can be achieved by competent tillage and timely carrying out of caring activities. In this case, tomatoes do not need additional nutrition, and hilling can be successfully dispensed with.