Greenhouses, designed by the American Jacob Mitlider, are simple and practical, so they are gradually becoming more and more popular. The peculiarity of this design is that it allows you to collect more abundant crops, although the beds remain narrow.
In this article, we will look at the advantages and disadvantages of Mitlider greenhouses, what types of structures exist, and how to make such a greenhouse building with your own hands.
Greenhouse according to Mitlider
The design of the greenhouse according to Mitlider is original, and although the benefits of such structures have been proven in practice, some skeptics are still trying to find disadvantages in such cultivation of crops.
To dispel doubts about the usefulness of the Mitlider technique, we will try to objectively consider the advantages and disadvantages of such structures (Figure 1).
Among the advantages are:
- Innovative ventilation system: The principle of air supply and exhaust resembles supply and exhaust ventilation. There are several transoms in the roof of the building, through which warm air is brought out, and fresh air enters through small windows or doors located below the roof level.
- High frame strength: provided by spacers and frequent arrangement of beams. As a result, the finished structure is resistant to any negative climatic phenomena, whether it be strong winds or large hail.
- Mobility: traditionally, not nails are used for assembly, but bolts and screws, therefore, if necessary, the building can be easily disassembled, moved to a new location and reassembled.
- Capacity: A standard Mitlider greenhouse is 12 meters long, 6 meters wide and 2.7 meters high. This provides not only enough space for growing a wide variety of crops, but also ensures the stability of the microclimate. Even with sudden temperature changes outside, the temperature inside the building itself practically does not change or changes slowly.
In addition, according to technology, the greenhouse should be installed on a wooden base, which prevents the formation of condensate inside.
Figure 1. External features of the Mitlider greenhouses As for the design flaws, they represent only some organizational difficulties. Firstly, before installation, it will be necessary to prepare a site of a suitable size and level it. Secondly, even if you bought a finished structure in a disassembled state, you will need to make a wooden base with your own hands from a timber treated with antiseptics. In addition, some efforts will be needed when arranging the beds, which are arranged in a special way in greenhouses along the Mitlider. We will describe these and other nuances in more detail.
Mitlider's achievement has become so popular that many manufacturers have begun to produce ready-made structures that you just need to assemble on a prepared site according to the drawings provided in the kit.
But, if you want to save on buying a finished building, you can always build it yourself. To do this, you need to carefully study the main types of buildings according to Mitlider, choose the right one, find ready-made drawings and calculate the necessary materials. This information will be presented in this article.
Types of greenhouses
In general, Mitlider covered ground structures are of two types - gable and arched. In the classic version, it should be exactly gable, but arched models have their advantages, in particular, they are much easier to build with your own hands (Figure 2).
To make it easier for you to decide on the choice of model, we give a description of each type. So, in a classic greenhouse according to Mitlider, there are vertical walls consisting of a certain number of racks, as well as a gable roof with one or more ventilation holes.
Note: The dimensions of the building are standard: length 12 m, width 6 m and height 2.7 meters with a side wall height of 1.8 meters. Accordingly, such a structure is quite dimensional and is not suitable for all sites.
Over time, the area of such buildings has changed somewhat, since not all summer residents had the opportunity to take such a large area under the building. In general, you can reduce the standard indicators, for example, reduce the width of the building to 3 meters, and make the length arbitrary. The main thing is to adhere to the gable roof structure and equip ventilation holes in it.
Arched greenhouses according to Mitlider have all the advantages listed above, but are additionally distinguished by ease of construction. The main difference between the Mitlider arched structure and the usual one is that a ventilation hole is still being equipped in the upper part of the arch. In this way, the main problem of all arched structures is solved: even if the doors are wide open, the air flow will be difficult, since warm air currents will not be removed from the room.
Figure 2. Main types of covered ground structures There is another construction option - with two ventilation holes. They are located on the south side of the structure: one under the slope, and the other under the ridge. This ensures optimum ventilation without drafts.
We recommend opting for an arched structure, especially if you decide to do the construction yourself. The arched greenhouse is built much faster, and the finished building requires much less attention from the owner: in the process of growing crops, warm air is evenly distributed throughout the room, and in winter the frame does not deform even with thick snow cover. In addition, you can arbitrarily change the area of \u200b\u200bthe building, increasing its length due to new arcs.
Drawing and calculation of the greenhouse
Ready-made drawings of greenhouses according to Mitlider can be easily found on the Internet, but you will have to do the calculation of the necessary materials yourself. For construction, wood or metal can be used (Figure 3).
We will give the amount of materials for the construction of a standard greenhouse measuring 12 x 6 x 2.7 meters from wood. You will need:
- Bars for the central racks with a section of 100 x 100 mm and a length of 3.05 meters (5 pieces);
- Bars for mounting side racks of the same section, but 2.15 meters long (10 pieces);
- Reiki for rafters (50 x 75 mm) 3 meters long (42 pieces);
- Wooden slats for the construction of side bars (section 50 x 75 mm, length 1.5 meters). In total, 32 such blanks will be needed;
- Rails of the same section, 2.4 meters long, from which door pillars will be made (16 pieces);
- Bars of 6 meters (8 pieces), which will serve as a ridge and beams;
- Boards for the lower strapping (section 25 x 200 mm) and three-meter corner braces (24 pieces in total);
- Thin rails for fixing polyethylene film and fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws, nails, etc.).
Figure 3. Examples of drawings for DIY construction All wooden elements of the future frame must be treated with an antiseptic and dried. So you protect the parts from fungi and mold, which are especially active in a humid environment, and the design will last much longer.
Mounting Features
When all the necessary materials are prepared, you can proceed to direct installation. First of all, you need to choose and prepare the site for the future greenhouse correctly. It is advisable to choose a flat area that is well lit by the sun throughout the day. The soil needs to be leveled and leveled. This stage is very important, since on an uneven site the building will roll to the side and the frame may begin to collapse.
Note: On the selected site, you need to mark the future base. It should be remembered that the greenhouses along the Mitlider are oriented from east to west.
The assembly of the structure begins with the construction of the foundation. To do this, a pre-prepared timber is placed in a frame, and its corners are fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts. To check the accuracy of the base, you should measure its two diagonals: if their length is the same, then the frame has the correct shape. Next, using the building level, you need to check the accuracy of the location of the bars. If everything was done correctly, you need to drive in the pegs in the selected area, lay the base and attach to the pegs with self-tapping screws. Parts of the peg that protrude above the timber should be cut down.
The frame is mounted in the following sequence:
- The side walls are knocked down on a flat surface and their symmetry is checked by measuring the diagonals. If everything is in order, mowings are installed on them.
- Next, the side walls are installed strictly vertically and attached with self-tapping screws to the base.
- Bars with a section of 50 x 75 mm are used for the construction of end walls. Racks are installed at a distance of 70 cm from each other.
- After that, you can start installing windows. The base of the window frame must match the slope of the roof and be at a slope of 30 degrees. 2 windows are made from prepared beams and installed on the frame using canopies and clamps. It is also necessary to assemble the door frame.
- Next, we move on to the installation of the roof. In greenhouses along the Mitlider, the northern slope is steeper than the southern one, so the rafters of the northern side are fixed on a ridge beam, and the southern one is attached to a beam that is 45 degrees lower. As a result, a ventilation hole is formed along the entire length of the roof.
At the final stage, it is enough to sheathe the finished frame with polycarbonate or film. If you use polycarbonate, then special self-tapping screws are used to fasten it, and the film can be nailed with ordinary nails, following the example of window glazing, using glazing beads and nails (Figure 4).
We use a profile pipe
If you live in a region with a cold climate and snowy winters, a gable greenhouse is definitely not suitable for you, since the snow from the roof will have to be cleaned regularly. If this is not done, the frame may collapse under the weight of the snow layer. More profitable in this case will be the arched building according to Mitlider.
To make the frame durable, it is recommended to make it from metal. But, unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to buy high-quality metal and tools for its processing. In this case, a profile pipe will be an excellent way out of the situation. It is strong enough, and the finished frame can withstand quite a lot of weight, but it is easy to work with this material.
Figure 4. Main installation steps For the construction of an arched greenhouse, it is better to choose a profile pipe with a section of 50 x 50 mm, and ordinary bolts can be used to fasten the frame elements, although a more reliable connection is obtained by welding.
Greenhouses according to the Mitlider method made of polycarbonate
The construction of a frame from a profile pipe, described above, is suitable specifically for further sheathing the structure with polycarbonate, since the metal pipe has sufficient strength, and the polycarbonate is hermetically fixed on it. If you plan to use a film as a covering material, then it is better to build a frame from wood.
Since polycarbonate is considered a more practical material for covering greenhouses, let's take a closer look at its installation scheme:
- In the frame, you need to outline and drill holes through which the polycarbonate will be attached.
- You don’t need to cut the sheets: you only need to make blanks for the end walls, and the roof and walls are sheathed with solid sheets.
- During the installation process, it is impossible to press polycarbonate too tightly, since it has a high coefficient of thermal expansion and, if fixed too tightly, it can burst.
It should also be borne in mind that polycarbonate should be fixed with a blue protective film outward, as it prevents the negative effects of ultraviolet rays on the material.
The main stages of the construction of the greenhouse according to Mitlider are shown in the video.
One of the main criteria for the proper growth and productivity of crops is the effective ventilation of the greenhouse. In agricultural practice, different types of greenhouses are used, however, to create a favorable microclimate, it is better to use a greenhouse of a special design, like the Mitlider greenhouse. Given the simplicity of this structure, it is quite possible to build it with your own hands.
What is it, description of the design, difference from conventional greenhouses
The greenhouse according to Mitlider is a greenhouse of a cubic or arched shape. Due to the special design of the roof slopes and the arrangement of windows for ventilation, a high-quality air exchange takes place inside such a structure.
American Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Jacob Mitlider proposed to make a gable roof in such a greenhouse, with a vent, in which each inclined plane is located at a different height.
These design features distinguish the Mitlider greenhouse from simple greenhouses. Conventional greenhouses are ventilated with open doors. In this case, part of the warm air stagnates under the ceiling, creating an unfavorable atmosphere. In the Mitlider design, warm flows freely exit through the ventilation in the roof, being replaced by fresh air masses.
To cover these greenhouses, a double layer of polyethylene is allowed, provided that the distance between each of them is 5 cm.
Mitlider's greenhouses in the form of arches have gained great popularity. The design of this form is much easier to manufacture, and it is more convenient to maintain it. Due to the rounded shape of the ceiling, warm air currents are better removed, leaving room for fresh air.
Greenhouse according to Mitlider: calculations and project drawings
Before carrying out all construction activities, it is necessary to choose the right place for the construction of this structure. The site for the Mitlider greenhouse should be well lit by the sun. For development, it is preferable to choose land with a flat surface. The site must be cleared of debris, stones and roots.
If the greenhouse will be built on a slope, then you need to take care of creating terraces. The walls of such steps must be strengthened to avoid slipping of the soil masses.
At the preparatory stage, it is extremely important to determine the cardinal points, since the structure should be located from west to east.
The standard dimensions of this greenhouse are 6 m wide, 12 m long, and 2.5 to 2.7 m high. These parameters define the classic version of the structure, but are not limiting. This makes it possible to build a greenhouse in accordance with the size of the site. The optimal material for its coating is cellular polycarbonate.
Any building, even as simple as a greenhouse, requires drawing up drawings and diagrams.
The durability of the structure and the properties of the microclimate inside it depend on the correctly chosen material. Since the light penetrating coating is placed on all sides of the Mitlider greenhouse, it is extremely important to choose a quality material for this.
Cellular polycarbonate
The most popular and effective coating for greenhouses and greenhouses is cellular polycarbonate.
When choosing a cellular polycarbonate used for structures of this kind, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- The thickness of the sheets and their light transmission. For the Mitlider greenhouse, polycarbonate with a thickness of 6 to 8 mm should be used. These material parameters are most suitable for creating a favorable microclimate inside the greenhouse. A sufficient amount of sunlight necessary for the normal life of plants penetrates through such sheets. In the cold months of the year, walls made of material with such parameters prevent the rapid cooling of the air inside the greenhouse. For regions with a cold climate, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm. Cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 mm is not used for such greenhouses and greenhouses, since its thermal insulation properties do not meet the requirements of cultivation. Thin sheets are more suitable for decorative design and finishing work. The light transmission of this material is almost as good as glass, which is only 10% lower than it.
- Resistant to moisture, sunlight and temperature extremes. When purchasing a coating, you need to ask about its chemical composition and characteristics. Preference should be given to more expensive polycarbonate, since cheap material can burn out in the sun after a while, become cloudy from exposure to water, or become cracked after the first wintering. To avoid these unpleasant moments, a protective film layer is applied to the material. In any case, you will have to buy high-quality, and accordingly expensive coverage.
- Flexibility. This criterion is especially important in the manufacture of arched structures.
- thermal insulation qualities. If you choose a high quality material, then there is no need to use additional insulating layers.
- Manufacturer firm. To date, well-known manufacturers of cellular polycarbonate are the following companies:
- Polygal is an Israeli manufacturing company that has become an innovator of this type of product;
- Palram is a joint German and Israeli company;
- Brett Nartin is an English firm;
- Poligal Vostok is a Russian-Israeli manufacturer.
Despite the effectiveness and popularity of cellular polycarbonate, this material has advantages and disadvantages.
Table: pros and cons of cellular polycarbonate
Wood is used for the frame, as well as pipes made of metal, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. Each material is widely used for the construction of such greenhouses, however, their individual characteristics differ significantly.
wood frame
Due to the high humidity inside the greenhouse, the wooden frame will quickly become unusable. Mold and fungal formations will appear on all elements and details of this design. In this regard, before using the material for the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses, it must be treated with special antiseptic impregnations, mastics and biocides. An important condition for such substances is the absence of toxic compounds that will poison the soil and crops. Therefore, the wooden frame of greenhouses is treated with oil-based preservatives.
An important role is played by the type of wood, which is more resistant to the specific environment of the greenhouse. For this purpose, it is necessary to use bars made of oak, hornbeam, beech, spruce, pine.
When buying this material, you should ask about its moisture content, which should not exceed 20–22%. To determine this degree, you can use a special measuring device - a moisture meter.
Also, during the acquisition, you need to inspect the bars in order to detect traces of woodworm insects.
Bars should not contain many knots, cracks and chips of wood.
Table: the pros and cons of wood
Frame made of polypropylene or PVC
These materials are plastic alloys. Pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) are used for the manufacture of water and sewer channels. This material is used in mechanical engineering, electrical engineering, construction. Due to their properties, such pipes have found application in the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses.
The main criterion for choosing such pipes is their stiffness and wall thickness. Too thin pipes will not hold their shape well.
Table: the pros and cons of greenhouses, the frame of which is made of polypropylene or PVC pipes
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Metal carcass
The designs of greenhouses according to Mitlider from metal tubes have gained great popularity. This material allows you to make structures of any shape.
Table: advantages and disadvantages of Mitlider greenhouses with a metal frame
Calculation of the required amount of material, necessary tools
To eliminate unnecessary costs or troubles with a lack of materials, it is necessary to make a calculation according to their quantity. For the construction of the greenhouse according to Mitlider, a project with a frame made of wood with a polycarbonate coating was chosen. The structure will be located on a concrete foundation (strip or pile). The greenhouse will be made with dimensions: height - 2.7 m, width - 3 m, length - 6 m.
Foundation calculation
To lay the foundation, you will need concrete grade M 200, sand, reinforcement and roofing material.
The sand poured into the trench and the poured concrete will have the shape of an elongated parallelepiped. To calculate the volumes of these materials, you need to remember the school geometry course and use the formula for finding the volume of a cube, which looks like this: V \u003d h³, where h is the width, height and length of the figure.
For convenience, calculations will be made separately for each side of the perimeter, and the results will be added up.
The sand will be filled into a trench 200 mm wide with a layer height of 100 mm. These figures must be converted to meters. Substitute the values: 0.2∙6.0∙0.1=0.12 m³ sand is required for one side of the foundation 6 m long. Since there are two of these sides, then: 0.12∙2=0.24 m³.
Now you need to calculate the volume of sand on two sides 3 m long. To do this, subtract the width of the two-perpendicular tapes (0.2 m each) from three meters: 3.0–0.4 \u003d 2.6 m. Calculate the volume of sand for these sides : 0.2∙2.6∙0.1=0.052 m³. Since there are two of these sides: 0.052 ∙ 2 \u003d 0.104 m³.
We add up the volumes of the sides: 0.24 + 0.104 = 0.344 m³ will require material to create a sand cushion of a concrete base.
According to the same formula, the volume of the concrete mixture is calculated. The width of the foundation tape will be 0.2 m, the height is 0.3 m. As in the first case, the calculations will be made separately for each side of the perimeter. We make the calculation: 0.2 ∙ 0.3 ∙ 6.0 \u003d 0.36 m³. We multiply this value: 0.36 ∙ 2 \u003d 0.72 m³, concrete will be required for two sides of the foundation 6 m long.
We make a calculation on two sides of the base, the length of which is 3 m each. Let's substitute the values: 0.2 ∙ 0.3 ∙ 2.6 \u003d 0.156 m³. We multiply this figure by two: 0.156 ∙ 2 \u003d 0.312 m³.
Now it is necessary to add up the results of calculations on all sides of the perimeter of the concrete base: 0.72 + 0.312 \u003d 1.032 m³, a concrete mixture will be required to fill the strip foundation of the Mitlider greenhouse.
Calculation of cellular polycarbonate
To determine the total number of polycarbonate sheets, it is necessary to make calculations for each side of the greenhouse. For calculations, you need a formula for calculating the area of \u200b\u200ba rectangle, which looks like this: S \u003d a ∙ b, where a is the height of the figure, b is its length.
Let's make a calculation for two sides, the length of which is 6 m each. Let's substitute the values: 6.0∙2.2=13.2 m². Since the structure has two similar sides: 13.2∙2=26.4 m².
Calculation for two sides 3 m long: 3∙2.2=6.6 m². Multiply by half: 6.6∙2=14.52 m².
Let's do the calculations for the roof. First, we calculate the roof section with parameters 1.87x6.0 m. Let's substitute the values: 1.87∙6.0=11.22 m². Now for the second section of the roof: 1.55∙6.0=9.3 m².
Having calculated the area of all sides of the structure, it is necessary to add the obtained values: 26.4 + 14.52 + 11.22 + 9.3 = 61.44 m².
Sheets of cellular polycarbonate must be purchased with a margin, as this material will be required for finishing the sides of the roof, vents and doors.
Reinforcement calculation
To strengthen the tape base, it is reinforced with metal rods. For this, reinforcement 0.8 cm thick is used. A three-dimensional frame is made from it, in which the rods are fixed with connecting elements of a similar material. The size of one such detail is 15x20x15x20 cm or 70 cm of its total length. These elements are located in the frame at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
Now you need to find out how many connecting elements are required for the entire perimeter: 36: 0.3 = 120 pieces. To find out the total length of all elements, you need: 120 ∙ 0.7 \u003d 84 m.
The total length of all reinforcement for strengthening the foundation: 36 + 84 = 120 m.
Wood calculation
The design of the greenhouse according to Mitlider provides for the presence of vents (transoms) located at the junction of the roof slopes, as well as on the sides. In a structure 6 m long, a continuous transom or several separate vents are usually made. This length of the greenhouse allows you to make 4 vents 150 cm long, 30 cm high. The sides of the greenhouse are equipped with two or three vents with these parameters.
For the manufacture of a greenhouse frame, wood of the following sizes will be required:
- For the manufacture of vertical racks - bars, section 100x150 mm, length 220 cm, in the amount of 18 pieces.
- For the supporting frame (roof) - bars with a similar section, 270 cm long, in the amount of 4 pieces.
- For the manufacture of the truss system, a material with a section of 55x80 mm is required: 5 bars 200 cm long and 5 more pieces 140 cm each.
- For the manufacture of the lower harness, bars with a section of 100x150 mm are needed: 2 6 m long and 2–3 m.
- For the upper strapping, bars with the same length are needed, but with a section of 100x100 mm.
- For the manufacture of vents, bars with a section of 60x60 mm are needed:
- 14 pieces of 150 cm;
- 14 - 30 cm.
- For the manufacture of doors, bars with the same cross section:
- 4 pieces with a length of 200 cm;
- 4 - 75 cm each.
Required Tools
When building a Mitlider greenhouse, you will need the following tools:
- Bayonet and shovel.
- Concrete mixer.
- Water tanks.
- Sleeve for pouring concrete.
- Hacksaw.
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Yardstick.
- Plumb.
- Building level.
- Big square.
- Sander or sandpaper.
- Molar brush.
- Bulgarian.
- Perforator.
- Electric jigsaw and file with fine teeth.
- Sharp construction knife.
- Cord with stakes.
- Pencil or marker.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a Mitlider greenhouse
After making the calculations and purchasing all the necessary materials, you can proceed with the construction of the greenhouse according to the Mitlider:
- Make markings on the prepared plot of land. To do this, you need to pull the cord, which is fixed to the stakes. In order for the shape of the future foundation to have a strictly planned (rectangular) shape, it is necessary to check the markup. To do this, a cord is pulled diagonally from the corners of the perimeter. If the intersection is in the middle of the rectangle, then the markup was done correctly.
- Dig a trench 20 cm deep and 20 cm wide along the marking perimeter. Its bottom must be rammed and the walls leveled.
- Pour sand inside the trench to form a layer 10 cm thick. Tamp it down. It should be noted that wet sand compresses better.
- On top of the sand cushion, lay a waterproofing layer around the entire perimeter. For this, roofing material or thick polyethylene folded in several layers is used. Waterproofing should cover not only the top of the sand layer, but also the walls of the trench.
- Formwork is made from boards, plywood sheets or OSB boards. The height of its side should be at least 25–30 cm. So that the formwork structure does not fall apart under the pressure of uncured concrete, it must be strengthened. For this, various spacers and stops are used.
- To strengthen the tape base, it must be reinforced. To do this, make a three-dimensional frame from reinforcing bars 0.8 cm thick. Intersections can be fixed by welding or twisted with wire. The connecting elements are made of the same material. Therefore, to cut them, you need a grinder. They look like a rectangle, the dimensions of which are 15x20 cm. These parts must be placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other inside the entire perimeter of the reinforcing frame. It should be noted that the metal structure should not touch the waterproofing layer. Therefore, it is installed on bars or fragments of bricks, 3–5 cm high.
- Now you can pour the concrete base. To do this, you need to use a mixture of brand M 200. To facilitate your work when pouring, you must use a special sleeve through which the mixture will flow directly into the formwork. The incoming concrete mixture must be raked with a shovel. Thus, air bubbles are removed from the liquid foundation, and the concrete is evenly laid inside the trench. The mixture should completely cover the metal structure. The height of the tape base is 30 cm. Its upper part will rise 20 cm above ground level. It should be noted that the filling must be carried out immediately around the entire perimeter. Layer-by-layer laying of the mixture is allowed.
- When the concrete base is poured into the formwork, it must be covered with a waterproofing material. Such a layer will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture, and protect it from drying out under the rays of the sun. It should be noted that the first two days, every 10-12 hours, you need to open the waterproofing for 20-30 minutes. This will ensure uniform hardening of the concrete mixture. After 4-6 days, the foundation will completely harden.
- When the tape base becomes solid, it is necessary to remove the formwork. Clean the top surface of the base from debris, dust and protruding particles.
- Lay a layer of roofing material on top of the concrete tape. It will protect the wooden frame from moisture.
- From the bars with a section of 100x150 mm, make a rectangular frame of the lower harness. The joints of the material are made using the method in half a tree. Fasten the bars with nails.
- Install the bottom trim on the foundation.
- Drill holes in the corners of the bottom trim to install anchor bolts. Such holes must be made every 120–150 cm. The bolts will hold the entire structure.
- Install the corner posts of the frame (beam 100x150 mm). To keep them vertical, it is necessary to use pins and slopes.
- Install the rest of the racks. The distance between them should be 75 cm. The wood joints must be reinforced with metal corners.
- From the bars with a section of 100x100 mm, make the upper harness. To do this, in the bar, every 75 cm, make grooves for complete cutting. The result is a part that must be installed on the upper ends of the vertical racks.
- Install 4 support posts supporting the roof.
- From bars with a section of 60x60, make and install vents and doors.
- Install the rafter system using bars with a section of 55x80 mm, 200 and 140 cm long. Use metal plates and corners as connecting elements.
- Using a jigsaw and a fine-toothed file, cut the polycarbonate sheets to the required length.
- Using an electric drill, prepare holes in these sheets for further screwing them to a wooden frame. For fastening this material, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket. During installation, polycarbonate sheets should not be strongly clamped with self-tapping screws. Having a cellular structure, this material is easily damaged. When installing this coating, it is important not to confuse the inner and outer surfaces of the material, since only one side of it is covered with a protective film.
- After installing polycarbonate, it is necessary to check the entire structure in order to eliminate cracks and gaps in the coating.
Since the microclimate favorable for growing is organized inside the Mitlider greenhouse, every centimeter of the internal space must be effectively used. The surface for growing crops can be placed not only on the floor.
From wood or plastic, you can make racks or shelves in which you can grow any crop.
A convenient alternative to such designs are PVC pipes of large diameter. This material is cut lengthwise. The result is a chute into which soil can be poured and useful herbs can be grown.
PVC pipes can be used in a vertical position, if round holes are cut at a small distance from each other, and, for example, strawberries are planted inside.
Watering such a bed will be carried out through a tube with small holes of a smaller diameter, inserted into the middle of the main pipe. The space between the pipes is filled with earth. Such a bed will not take up much space.
In this greenhouse, you can stretch cords vertically, which will give direction for the growth of tomatoes, cucumbers, beans or other vegetables.
Video: we build our own greenhouse
Having built the Mitlider greenhouse with your own hands, you organize high-quality ventilation and a favorable microclimate for cultivated garden crops. Your hard work will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest.
Modeled after California's Jacob Mitlider, greenhouses are well thought out. They optimize gas exchange, the use of sunlight and heat. A large area of window openings provides fast and efficient ventilation. Such structures are erected from wooden beams or a metal profile. Greenhouses are sheathed with two layers of polyethylene film or polycarbonate. The Mitlider greenhouse is also good because it is easy to build it with your own hands.
Unlike traditional greenhouses, the two roof slopes have a different angle of inclination. They do not occur on a ridge beam, but are connected by a half-meter vertical wall. All of it consists of one or more fanlights for exhaust ventilation. This wall is oriented to the south. In the upper part of the southern wall there is a row of inlet transoms. The design optimizes the use of greenhouse space, improves natural gas exchange, which is necessary for the rapid development of plants and obtaining good yields. With an equal consumption of materials, a greenhouse according to the Mitlider method is 25-35% more efficient than a conventional one.
Advantages and disadvantages
What are the main advantages of the American gardener's design? It has the following advantages compared to conventional greenhouses:
- fast uniform air exchange due to the large length of the transoms;
- the location of the building relative to parts of the world keeps the plants from excessive cooling during ventilation;
- when airing, there are no drafts that can harm sensitive crops;
- the use of a wooden frame prevents the formation of condensate;
- frequent set and frame braces provide resistance to wind gusts;
- large height and volume create comfortable conditions for plants and care for them.
Along with the advantages, the greenhouse also has a number of disadvantages:
- the complexity of the design, high accuracy of marking, manufacturing and assembly of parts is required;
- the upper location of the transoms makes it difficult to manipulate them;
- in the northern regions, it is required to significantly strengthen the structure in order to withstand the increased snow load.
Varieties of designs
The most common version of the simplified Mitlider greenhouse design, assembled by hand, consists of straight walls, two roof slopes and a ventilation opening. The aspect ratio is usually 1:2. Cover the greenhouse with plastic wrap or polycarbonate sheet.
The classic design of the Mitlider also provides for another row of vents along the top of the south wall. It is this design that ensures optimal air circulation in the volume.
In the arched version, the frame is assembled from a curved metal profile. This design is better suited for the northern regions: a smaller volume of air warms up faster, and the arched frame is better able to withstand snow loads. In addition, snow falls off the sloping walls on its own. Profile pipes are heavy, so a concrete foundation is required.
Site Selection Criteria
The main criteria in determining the location of the Mitlider greenhouse are:
- orientation relative to the cardinal points and the horizon;
- illumination;
- soil properties.
The Mitlider greenhouse is oriented with the upper transom to the south or southwest. This orientation ensures the maximum use of sunlight and heat for the rapid and full development of plants. The blind wall will be directed to the north, the ends - to the east and west. For installation, choose a flat piece of land or a prepared terrace on the southern slope. A slope of up to 10 ° can be compensated by deepening the foundation on one side. The northern slopes are not recommended for installation: the temperature and illumination on them are lower, this will not allow to fully show and use the advantages of the structure.
To ensure maximum illumination, the southern, western and eastern wall should not be obscured by fences, trees, other plantings or buildings. But to cover the "American" from the predominant wind direction will be very useful.
If natural soil is used, its qualities must be assessed:
- depth of subsoil waters;
- drainage efficiency;
- acidity.
Neighborhood with septic tanks and settling wells, wind turbines, garden ponds is not recommended. If the soil in a favorably lit place is heavy, bulk beds supported by boards can be used. And bring good soil into them. Waterlogged soils will require local drainage.
Installation technology of a wooden greenhouse with a gable roof
This design is the easiest to manufacture, but with the installation it will have to tinker. From the home master you will need a confident possession of carpentry skills.
Materials and tools
You will need the following tools for installation:
- electric saw or jigsaw;
- screwdriver;
- shovel;
- ladder;
- measuring tool: tape measure, level, square.
From the materials you will need:
- timber 100 * 100 for the foundation;
- bar 50 * 75 for rafters and racks;
- bar 50 * 50 for transoms;
- bioprotective impregnation;
- painting tool or spray gun;
- reinforced corners 50*50*35*2;
- hinges for doors and windows;
- self-tapping screws;
- polycarbonate or plastic film from 150 microns.
Blueprints
According to the above drawing, you get a greenhouse with an area of 16.1 m2
The same dimensions can be realized with the help of a metal profile.
Foundation
For a wooden structure, a foundation of beams is usually placed. The sequence of operations is as follows:
- clear and level the site;
- mark the place for the foundation, mark it with pegs and a cord;
- dig a recess of 10-15 cm around the perimeter, width - 25-30 cm;
- half fill with sand and tamp;
- moisten abundantly and repeat the rammer;
- mark and cut out the foundation beams, make quarter cuts at the corners;
- impregnate the timber with bioprotective impregnation;
- lay waterproofing on a layer of sand so that it goes onto the walls of the trench;
- lay the bars, check the squareness of the structure: the diagonals should be equal to each other.
The foundation is completed with a second layer of waterproofing.
frame
The frame is more convenient to assemble together. This will significantly speed up the work and increase the accuracy of installation.
Start with the construction of side (long) walls:
- mark and file vertical racks based on a step of 70-100 cm;
- mark and saw off the bars for the horizontal top trim;
- assemble a wall blank on the ground, strengthen it with building corners;
- install jibs;
- move the wall to the foundation and attach to it with the help of corners.
For the manufacture of end walls, two racks of 100 * 100 timber are connected to the horizontal parts of the end frames. The blanks are moved to the foundation, docked with long walls and fastened with corners. The verticality of the frame elements is checked using a level or plumb line.
Windows and doors
The greenhouse door should be wide enough for a garden wheelbarrow or cart to pass through, usually 70-80 cm is enough. The height of the door should allow you to enter the greenhouse without hitting the lintel with your head. Given the height of the foundation, 180 cm will be enough for most.
Bars for doors and windows are cut and assembled using corners. For doors, it is imperative to make and carefully fit the jibs directed from the lower hinge to the upper opposite corner. They will help to avoid sagging and warping of the door. The same jibs, only symmetrical, strengthen the window frames.
Roof
The roof is assembled in the following sequence:
- two horizontal beams are attached to the central end supports;
- rafters are installed from them to the top of the long walls, moving alternately either along the north or south side;
Building sheathing
To complete the construction, it must be sheathed. To do this, use a plastic film or polycarbonate sheets.
When choosing a polyethylene film for sheathing, the following factors should be considered:
- ordinary thin film will hardly last one season;
- the material must be resistant to ultraviolet rays, otherwise the season will not last;
- reinforcing mesh fused into the film will allow the material to last for several years;
- antistatic coating reduces the amount of settling dust and preserves the transparency of the film;
- the hydrophilic coating of the film saves plants from waterlogging by condensate dripping from the roof: the drops roll down the walls.
The film is attached as follows:
- polyethylene is unwound from a roll on a flat area, one edge of the sleeve is cut;
- the panel is cut to the size of the wall, applied to it and attached to the uprights with the help of a glazing bead and wallpaper nails;
- for fastening, you can also use wide strips fixed with self-tapping screws.
- the roof, windows and doors are covered;
- the operation is repeated from inside the greenhouse.
The air layer formed during the two-layer coating will ensure the preservation of daytime heat even with occasional frosts.
The nuances of manufacturing an arched structure from a profile pipe
The arched structure is able to carry a large snow and wind load. The streamlined shape reduces wind resistance, and the snow itself descends from the slopes. You can purchase a ready-made greenhouse "Novator" according to Mitlider, or you can, if you have the skills to work with metal and the appropriate equipment, make it yourself.
Materials and tools
Such a design can no longer be made from wooden beams, a metal profile will be required. To process it, you need the following tools:
- pipe bender;
- hacksaw or jigsaw;
- welding machine with consumables;
- Angle Grinder;
- screwdriver or drill;
- measuring and marking tool: tape measure, level, square, marker;
- drills for metal;
- shovel;
- container for mixing the solution;
- construction mixer or nozzle for a drill;
The need for a concrete strip foundation will also change the list of materials:
- metal profile 30*30*1.5, galvanized or paintable;
- metal profile 20*20*1;
- fittings 4-8mm;
- fittings for doors and windows;
- primer and paint;
- painting tool;
- solvent and rags;
- cement, sand, gravel, water.
Be sure to use personal protective equipment:
- welding mask with adaptive light filter;
- suit and shoes made of non-combustible material;
- split leggings;
- respirator for respiratory protection.
When cutting the metal profile, you need to use safety glasses and gloves.
Blueprints
The building is 4m long, 2.58m high and 4.95m wide, has 4 doors and 4 transoms. The total area is 19.6 m2. Transoms are made separately. As a coating, a polycarbonate sheet with a thickness of 4-6 mm is used.
Foundation
Karkaya and metal profile and polycarbonate sheet weigh significantly more than wood, coated with polyethylene. Therefore, it is necessary to build a concrete strip foundation:
- along the perimeter of the cleared and leveled area, dig a trench with a depth of 500-600 mm and a 300 mm tire;
- arrange a gravel cushion with a thickness of 70-100 mm;
- assemble plank formwork;
- inside it, assemble a reinforcing cage, fix it by welding or tie it with wire;
- mix the solution by adding 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of crushed stone to one part of cement;
- pour the solution into the formwork, leveling it with the rule.
The foundation must be closed from precipitation and allowed to stand for 2-3 weeks. During drought and high temperatures, the surface must be periodically moistened so that the concrete does not crack. After the final setting of the solution, the formwork is dismantled, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on top.
frame
Vertical racks and horizontal bars are cut from a metal profile 40 * 40mm. Cutting is carried out on a flat, dry surface using a grinder or band saw. The ends are welded on the ground, then transferred and fixed to the foundation with anchor bolts.
The specification for blanks for end walls is given below:
- 40*40, length 2980mm: 2pcs;
- 40*40, length 860mm: 4 pieces;
- 20*20, 2980mm long: 2pcs;
- 20*20; length 1980 mm: 8 pieces;
- 20*20, length 1900mm: 4 pcs.
As jibs, sections of a 20 * 20 profile or pipes with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 400 mm are used, the ends are cut to 45 o.
For the side walls, the following details are cut out:
- 40*40, length 1920mm: 2pcs;
- 20*20, length 1980mm: 4 pieces;
- 20*20, length 1920mm: 2pcs;
- 20*20, length 400mm, corners cut to 45°: 8 pcs.
First, the central parts of the side walls are installed, then 4 corner parts are attached to them.
Polycarbonate mount
When choosing polycarbonate, you also need to choose a model with UV protection. The thickness of the sheet depends on the climatic zone, the estimated snow load and the step between the rafters. A thicker sheet has more strength, but less light transmission. Properly installed high-quality polycarbonate lasts up to 7 years.
Polycarbonate is cut with a mounting knife to size and fastened with roofing screws with wide rubber-coated washers. Channels inside the sheet should be vertical. Before screwing in the self-tapping screw, a hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled at the installation site.
For joining polycarbonate strips, a special H-shaped profile is used. The edges of the sheets are protected with a C-shaped profile or sealed with strong adhesive tape. It is necessary to bend polycarbonate along the channels. A kink across the strips will cause stresses within the sheet and cause it to break quickly.
The greenhouse structure according to Mitlider is widely known among gardeners. It is a unique design, which has a volumetric capacity. Suitable for growing a wide variety of crops under optimal conditions.
Construction of a universal greenhouse according to Mitlider:
Features of the greenhouse according to Mitlider
Mitlider's greenhouse is also called "American". The structure has characteristic features that distinguish it from other greenhouses:
- Unusual ventilation system. The upper part of the roof has transoms, warm air currents pass through them. Fresh air is supplied through open doors or additional windows located below the roof level;
- Often installed beams and braces provide strength to the frame. Designs are not afraid of hail and strong winds;
- The ability to move from place to place, provided that the installation was carried out with bolts or screws, without using nails;
- The installation of the greenhouse is carried out in the west-east direction;
- No need for additional equipment or dispensers for feeding gas, since due to natural ventilation, the grown plants are supplied with carbon dioxide in the required volume.
Types and materials for the manufacture of the greenhouse frame according to Mitlider
Most often they construct a gable greenhouse with vertical walls. The northern side of the structure has a high slope that protects crops from cold winds. The lower slope has a southerly direction.
REFERENCE: A Mitlider greenhouse with an arched roof has a certain popularity, since a two-level roof perfectly provides the necessary ventilation, unlike standard arched structures.
As a material for the construction of the frame use:
- Profile pipe with a section of 50x50 mm. Great option for polycarbonate coating;
- Wooden beam with a section of 75-100x50 mm. The framework is ideal for a polyethylene film.
REFERENCE: The differences lie only in the method of fastening the covering material: the polycarbonate coating is fixed with metal screws, and a stapler or a wooden rail and nails are used to secure the film coating.
Preparing for construction
Preparatory activities include:
- Drawing up a drawing, in accordance with the dimensions of the future greenhouse. Recommended construction parameters: length - 6 m, width - 3 m, height - 2.7 m. The difference between the upper and lower slopes is 45 cm;
- Acquisition of materials according to the drawn up drawings;
- Identification of a site for construction. The selected place is cleaned of debris and vegetation, carefully leveled.
The next step is to choose the type of foundation. The best option for a polycarbonate structure is a shallow strip foundation. This is a simple and reliable design.
Foundation pouring
Step-by-step instructions for pouring a strip foundation:
- Mark the base using stakes and a rope stretched between them;
- In accordance with the markings, dig a trench, 0.6 m deep, 0.25 m wide;
- Mix one part sand and gravel;
- Pour the resulting mixture into the trench with a 10-centimeter layer, this will serve as a kind of pillow;
- Build formwork from boards and stakes. Dig stakes at intervals of 30-40 cm;
- Build a frame from reinforcement using electric welding or tie the rods together with steel wire;
- Place the finished frame in the formwork;
- Prepare a cement mortar by mixing crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 5:3:1;
- Pour the solution into the formwork.
ATTENTION: The formwork is removed 7 days after pouring. The construction of the greenhouse begins a month after the construction of the foundation.
Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate greenhouse construction technology:
- The base of the future structure is laid on top of the foundation. Bars with a section of 10x10 cm are used as a base. The bars are laid around the entire perimeter of the structure and fixed together with self-tapping screws;
REFERENCE: After laying the base, be sure to check whether the rectangle is correct. Then, stakes are driven in along the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe base, the connection with the bars is carried out with self-tapping screws.
- Assemble the side walls according to the intended dimensions. Self-tapping screws are also used to connect the walls;
- Build ends. The distance between the uprights is 70 cm. The walls are mounted using a beam with a section of 75x50 cm;
- Assemble the doorway. They install hinges on the doorway;
- Install windows. In this design, the window frame should have an angle of inclination similar to the slope of the roof slope, which is 30º. The best option for the construction is two windows.
The final stage is the construction of the roof. For the construction of the roof use:
- Five beams, the length of which is 1.9 meters;
- Five bars, 32.7 cm long. They will serve as a support. The corners of the bars must be cut;
- Five wedges of a triangular shape, with the same sides of 50 cm. They are made of plywood 70 cm thick.
Using materials, a five-rafter structure is assembled. The distance from the extreme point to the other is 240 cm. Then fasten the wedges with nails. Produce installation of finished structures on top of the walls. First the side elements, after the rest, with the same distance. Fix the installed structures with self-tapping screws. At the very top, under the roof, a beam with a section of 75x50 mm is installed, window frames are attached to it. An auxiliary board is required from above. Under the windows between the rafters, several short bars are fixed.
ATTENTION: All wooden parts of the structure that come into contact with wet soil are covered with drying oil. The finished frame is covered with polycarbonate.
During the installation of a polycarbonate coating, some rules must be observed:
- You need to pre-drill the holes for the screws. The holes should be wider than the diameter of the self-tapping screws by 2-3 mm;
- Avoid too tight pressing of polycarbonate sheets to the frame;
- The polycarbonate coating is installed on the side with UV protection. Due to the protective membrane, the coating has a bluish tint.
The choice of a greenhouse structure according to Mitlider will be an excellent option on a personal plot. Thanks to the design features, it has a positive effect on the development of plants and guarantees a large harvest at the end of the summer season.
Greenhouse according to Mitlider. From design to production:
Jacob Mitlider, Ph.D. in agriculture, has devoted his entire life to growing tasty and healthy vegetables. He was engaged in both improving the "quality" of the fruits themselves, and minimizing the "absorption" of harmful substances from the environment. And, of course, increased productivity. For private gardeners and industrial growers, Dr. Mitlider proposed a greenhouse design that allows for an optimal microclimate for plant growth. This greenhouse has been implemented in 27 countries of the world with different climates as part of the "Vegetable growing for small family gardens" program.
Buy greenhouse Mitlider
In his book "Vegetable Growing for Small Family Gardens", Dr. Mitlider proposed an original scheme for a greenhouse made of wood, since this material is the most accessible and virtually any gardener can build a greenhouse from bars. However, it has now become obvious that it is more profitable to buy a ready-made Mitlider greenhouse from a stronger and more durable steel pipe. The industrial production of Mitlider greenhouses has been established for a long time, all structures have passed engineering strength calculations, as well as tests in real conditions of the Russian winter, delighting their owners with high yields for many years.
You can buy a Mitlider greenhouse with or without an installation service, by assembling a greenhouse in your garden yourself. The Mitlider greenhouse is 3 meters wide and 2.4 meters high and is made of a solid steel arc, so it is strong and durable. The standard package includes one two-meter window in the roof ridge with a width of 2 meters for every two meters of the length of the greenhouse, as well as one meter window in the lower part of the greenhouse. Automatic ventilators can be purchased separately if desired.
The Mitlider greenhouse is a unique greenhouse that takes into account all the features of plant growth. For many years, gardeners believed that the main function of the greenhouse was to keep it warm, and did not take into account other features of the microclimate. required by plants for ideal growth. Such features, in addition to the ambient temperature, should primarily include the presence of a sufficient amount of carbon dioxide. Yes, yes, it is without carbon dioxide that plants will stop growing even at the most comfortable temperature!
Recall the definition of photosynthesis from a school biology course: photosynthesis is the conversion of carbon dioxide into oxygen in the leaves of plants under the action of sunlight. However, this definition does not specify why plants need photosynthesis. And it is needed in order for plants to grow - it is the process of photosynthesis that converts not only carbon dioxide into oxygen, but also inorganic substances into organic ones, that is, in the process of photosynthesis, the plant gains mass, that is, it grows. The same biology course - plants are at the very bottom of the food chain, life on earth originated due to the fact that photosynthesis "earned" in plants!
In the Mitlider greenhouse, the influx of carbon dioxide to replace the oxygen produced by plants is provided by vents, which are located throughout the ridge, as well as vents in the side southern wall of the greenhouse. Keeping all the vents open, you provide an influx of carbon dioxide-enriched air in any weather, when it's cold - the vents are slightly ajar, when it's hot - wide open. And the plants grow and gain a lot of fruits as quickly as possible. This is why yields in a Mitlider greenhouse can be 30% or even 50% higher than in a conventional greenhouse.
You can buy a greenhouse according to Mitlider in Moscow only from us
We always have a Mitlider greenhouse of the Novator brand in stock, and we also complete it with various types of cellular polycarbonate for every taste and budget. We deliver our greenhouses along the Mitlider to our customers only by Gazelle-type vehicles with an awning, since the design has a solid arc for greater strength and it is simply impossible to transport it in a car.
We offer professional installation of the Mitlider greenhouse on a timber foundation and the quality of our assembly is extremely high.
Greenhouse Novator according to Mitlider from the manufacturer to buy in the company Deland
We offer the original Mitlider Novator greenhouse from a warehouse in Moscow. This greenhouse, strong and reliable, has been pleasing gardeners for more than a year. Its design incorporates all the principles of the Mitlider, adapted to the material from which it is made.
The frame of the greenhouse Mitlider Innovator is made of steel pipe 40*20 and painted green. The greenhouse was made arched in order to cover it with cellular polycarbonate as conveniently as possible. The principle of installing the vents is left unchanged, and even a semicircular shape allows you to make ventilation even more efficient.
Greenhouses Novator Mitlider have a two-year warranty.
Scheme of Mitlider's greenhouse
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Plants inside are not supercooled or exposed to drafts- this is achieved due to two factors: firstly, the greenhouse is installed strictly from west to east, and its northern roof slope is higher than the southern one. Transoms for ventilation are located only on the south side, so the cold north wind does not get inside the greenhouse. The greenhouse should be installed in a sunny area without shade from trees or buildings. It is known that at temperatures below +19°C, plant growth stops. Plants inside do not overheat- even in the heat of the day, the design allows you to ventilate all parts of the greenhouse, including hard-to-ventilate volumes of air under the roof, due to the transom between the roof slopes of different heights along the entire length of the greenhouse. It is known that at temperatures above + 30 ° C, the formation of ovaries does not occur due to the fact that pollen loses its properties. |
Plants inside are not exposed to excessive moisture- the unique design allows you to completely ventilate the greenhouse and remove excess moisture. It is known that during the period of flowering, formation of ovaries and fruiting, increased humidity leads to rotting and death of fruits.
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Plants inside do not experience carbon starvation- this happens due to constant ventilation and renewal of the air inside the greenhouse. It is known that the process of photosynthesis requires large amounts of carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis is a unique natural process of converting inorganic substances into organic ones, the first and main condition for the emergence of life on Earth. If the plant is in an environment with a high oxygen content (which it itself has developed), then it does not have enough "fuel" for the photosynthesis process, and it significantly slows down its growth. |
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A little theory: It's no secret that traditional "greenhouse" vegetables grow best when the temperature and humidity around them is the same. In the figure below, we have shown the optimal growth conditions:
Advantages of a greenhouse according to Mitlider
The optimum temperature for growing tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and eggplants is between 20 to 27 degrees Celsius during the day and 16 to 18 degrees Celsius at night. In this case, the temperature of the soil should be as close as possible to the ambient temperature. We all know that in the Moscow region the climate is characterized by a wide range of temperatures during the period of growing vegetables from the beginning of May to the end of September. Under such conditions, the main task of the greenhouse is to bring the microclimate of the greenhouse closer to that ideally required for plants. 
Buy a greenhouse according to Mitlider in Moscow from the manufacturer
The greenhouse according to Mitlider allows you to grow plants in the middle zone of plants from April to the end of September. First, you can plant fresh herbs and radishes in it, then they are replaced by traditional vegetables: tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants. Then, in late August - early September, you can again plant greens in it and get harvests until deep frosts.
You can buy a greenhouse according to the Mitlider in Moscow from Deeland. Firstly, we are the official representative of the manufacturer, and secondly, we carry out professional installation and give a two-year warranty. When comparing prices, it should be noted that most of them are indicated for greenhouses that are not located in Moscow, or are sold without polycarbonate.
Polycarbonate for greenhouse Mitlider
The polycarbonate that covers the greenhouse is a very important component! The design of the greenhouse according to the Mitlider with polycarbonate is very different from conventional arched greenhouses due to the south-facing ramp of different heights. On the territory of the Moscow region, the western and northern winds prevail, but southern and eastern strong winds are also not excluded. At these moments, the greenhouse experiences very strong loads under gusts of wind.
Therefore, when choosing cellular polycarbonate, preference should be given to a thicker one, from 6 millimeters or more. It will additionally strengthen the structure of the greenhouse, preventing it from swaying under gusts of wind, thereby extending its service life.
The distance between the arcs of the greenhouse according to the Novator according to the Mitlider is 1 meter, so the choice of thicker polycarbonate is also desirable.
Average monthly temperatures in the Moscow region
How to maintain the temperature in the Mitlider greenhouse in the Moscow region?
April- during the day, the temperature in the greenhouse should increase under the influence of sunlight or through the use of an infrared heater, ventilation is excluded. At night, it is recommended to use infrared heaters to keep the soil and air temperature at the right level. May- enough heat and light to keep the temperature in the greenhouse at the desired level of 20-26 degrees, ventilation is minimal, preferably using automatic ventilation to avoid uncontrolled temperature drops and hypothermia of plants. At night, when it gets cold, it is recommended to use infrared heaters with a temperature sensor to avoid overheating of the plants.
June- we strictly monitor that the air in the greenhouse does not overheat, we use automatic ventilators for this. As soon as they reach the maximum opening angles, we begin to open the vents in the doors and the doors themselves. at sunset, it is enough just to close all the doors and windows in the greenhouse so that the night temperatures are at the right level.
July- During the day on the street, there are ideal conditions for the growth of vegetables, we strictly monitor that the air inside does not overheat, we open all the windows and doors as much as possible. At night, it is enough to close the greenhouse, ideally using automatic ventilators to avoid overheating.
August- the weather is unstable, on sunny days we ventilate the greenhouse with the help of doors and vents, on cloudy days - with the help of automatic ventilators. At night it is enough to close the greenhouse.
September- a very unstable month in terms of weather, but it is still possible to get crops. We turn again to automatic ventilation, avoiding drafts. On cold days and at night, we use an infrared heater with a temperature sensor.
Prices are valid from September 18, 2018.