Installing the timing phase on the ZMZ 406

ENGINE ZMZ - 406 TIMING MECHANISM
Tensioner shoe or chainring? (all for and against)

This material is quite controversial and, as I thought, did not remain without comment. Comments from hsb (Vadim Tabrin, Arkhangelsk, CTTeam's best gas specialist) are highlighted in blue.

Vladimir Sevostyanov

From the first days of the creation of the ZMZ-406 engine, the designer of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant installed a tensioner shoe made of plastic with a very low coefficient of friction in the gas distribution mechanism (timing). The benefits of using plastic are obvious. With two chains, the entire timing mechanism and the engine as a whole worked without noise.

Recently, the quality of plastic shoes leaves much to be desired. Resource of factory layers. shoes is on average from 25 to 80 thousand km.

The problem for all owners of cars with a ZMZ-406 engine was that after 140-180 thousand km it was necessary to remove the front cover of the engine and replace the tensioner shoes, while the timing chains themselves changed at the same time. If you carefully compare a new chain and a chain that has traveled 180 thousand km, then there is practically no difference between the chains.

There is a difference, and a significant one ... On average, the resource of the upper chain is 80-100 thousand km. In this case, the phases are able to “float away” by 10-15 degrees. by the crank.

To say in a word that the chains, with a run of 180 thousand km, did not “stretch out” (did not wear out, it would be more correct to say). However, all drivers had and still have a fear that timing marks can “run away” at any moment. Marks "run away" (jump over), as a rule, unpredictably. This can happen when shifting gears, when starting the engine, and when braking in front of an obstacle on the road. And here the most unpleasant begins. The engine stops "pulling" or does not start at all. One thing pleases if it happened not far from home, but if it is on the highway? This begs the question: How does the chain flip? Which one is the bottom chain or the top chain? Throws lower chain.

Controversial assertion. IMHO, the upper chain jumps, due to poor performance of the tensioner or chain stretch. There is a tide in the front cover that limits the radial movement of the chain, but it is very weak, and the chain “takes it down” at the expense of “times” J and at the first opportunity (whether it is a car left in gear uphill, or just engine braking) top. the chain will jump to prom. shaft...

The marks “run away” due to the poor performance of the lower tensioner and from the increased load on the engine. The driven side of the lower chain weakens (i.e., chain slack is obtained) and this is enough to throw the chain over one or more teeth on the crankshaft gear. To prevent this from happening, it is enough to increase the toe of the lower tensioner shoe (the metal “penny” where the tensioner itself rests) by 4 mm. Thus, we simply move the tensioner shoe, reducing sagging, and eliminating the possibility of chain “jumping”.

You will try to object to me, they say, how then is the mileage of 20 thousand km. and the shoe is completely worn out? The main reason for the rapid wear of the tensioner shoe is bad work of the tensioner itself, or install the tensioner in a discharged state.

Only a stupid or a very strong person can install a tensioner in a discharged state, especially when the chain is new. The consequence of installing a discharged tensioner is usually increased wear of the bushings prom. shaft (hence the drop in oil pressure) up to its jamming and breakage of the sprocket bolts on the promshaft, as well as a poor “hot” start - the engine “wedges”.

The drivers, together with the mechanics, began to think about how to change the tensioner shoes to the stars, so as not to once again open the front cover. And on sale there were sets of stars on aluminum brackets and steel, on bearings and bushings. There is nothing to say about aluminum brackets. There were cases that in the first thousand km, the toe of the bracket, where the tensioner rests, broke off with the ensuing consequences. Metal brackets lasted longer, but after a short period of time, extraneous noise appeared in the front of the engine due to the fact that the chain began to grab the very toe of the bracket. The reason is the wrong design development of the bracket itself.

The reason is just the elongation of the chain. The range is very narrow, I have already said about mileage and resource above.

Hence the increased engine noise. Now the third generation of stars has appeared, and ZMZ has begun to install stars on motors. Engine ZMZ-405 from the first day on the stars. Everything became good. There were fewer moments of “jumping” of the chain, and there was no noise in the engine either.

There were more “jumping” moments, as well as a decrease in the life of the chains. The chains are 2 links longer (72-92 vs. 70-90), respectively, and they stretch a larger amount and earlier than chains 70-90 ...

But new defects appeared, such as the scattering of the sprocket bearing cage, and hence the fracture of the upper sprocket mounting bolt. Those. as before, with complete wear of the top tensioner shoe. But a new problem has been added. After 60-120 thousand km. the engine starts to lose power. As a result, it turned out that on almost all engines the camshafts “run away” relative to the marks, and moreover, in the “late” ignition, up to 4 degrees more than the norm. Those. the exhaust shaft rises 24-26 degrees, and the intake shaft 14-17 degrees. It is not possible to set it as it should be, you have to drill the camshaft gears according to the jig template. What is the reason? The reason is simple: the chains simply “stretched out”, and if for sure, then the chains were worn out. But along with the chains, all timing gears wear out, and the crankshaft gear wears out the most, because. it bears the greatest burden. It should be noted that there is no wear of the timing chains and gears with the tensioner shoes installed. What is the reason? Yes, everything is simple. When the tensioner shoe is worn, microparticles (micro-dust) from the shoe with a very low coefficient of friction fall on the chain rollers, timing gears and, together with oil, into the crank mechanism, thereby acting as an additive to reduce friction.

This is complete nonsense, there is no other word for it. Dust from plastic shoes settles in the oil channels of the cylinder head, and interferes with the operation of hydraulic lifters.

The opposite effect is obtained when sprockets are installed on the engine. When working metal on metal, a metal abrasive (metal dust) is formed, which increases engine wear. As a result: after a car run of 160-180 thousand km. it is necessary to replace the timing chains, and in addition to everything, all the timing gears due to the large tooth wear.

I haven't seen worn out stars, to be honest. I changed them only during an “emergency” stop of the engine, when it breaks the chain, breaks the front cover, one camshaft and sometimes the intermediate shaft.

From the foregoing, it should be concluded that the operation of the timing mechanism is on average designed for approximately 160-200 thousand kilometers of the car, regardless of what is installed in the engine - a tensioner shoe or an asterisk.

Up to 400 thousand kilometers, with regular replacement of the upper chain. (once in 80-100 thousand)

Although there were cars with a mileage of 240-280 thousand km. At the same time there were tensioner shoes. Where, when disassembling and replacing the shoes, it turned out that the shoes could travel another 20-30 thousand km.
The whole reason for the long operation of the timing mechanism (or not work) lies, oddly enough, in the chain tensioner.

The stiff tensioner spring is on the ZMZ sets, with chains of 72-92 links.

It has been noticed that if the spring that pushes the tensioner piston is very stiff, then the shoe wears out faster. The same thing happens with the stars. It does not say that the tensioner was installed in a discharged state.
So what to put all the same, tensioner shoes or asterisks ???

Each option has its pros and cons.

WHEN INSTALLING THE SHOE:

pros:
1. “soft” engine operation
2. almost no wear of timing chains and gears with the same mileage as on the stars.
3. micro dust generated from the wear of the tensioner shoe has a favorable anti-friction effect on the rubbing parts of the engine as a whole. An example of this: the working surfaces of the main and connecting rod bearings on an engine with a mileage of about 400 thousand km look like they have just been installed.

Well, I've already said my opinion.

4. after a run of 140-160 thousand km. You can only do with the replacement of the tensioner shoes.

minuses:
1. the probability of "jumping" timing marks. (if you modify the lower tensioner shoe), then this item can be excluded.
2. the probability of low-quality plastic (as a result, a low mileage of the car before replacement) and a crease in the upper bolt of the tensioner shoe.

A crease is a consequence of a weakened chain.

WHEN INSTALLING THE SPROCKETS:

pros:
1. “jumping” of timing marks is almost excluded

It is possible

2. The driver is not afraid of what will happen with the crease of the upper bolt of the tensioner shoe. (although this happens, and not rarely).

It breaks the same. The reason is different, said above

minuses:
1. After 80-120 thousand km, the timing marks “run away” due to wear. (it is necessary to drill the camshaft gears along the jig).

You don't need to drill anything, just change the top chain.

2. after 160-200 thousand km. it is necessary to change the timing chains and gears, as a result of high wear. (At the same time, additional costs for the purchase and replacement of a set of gears for the timing mechanism)

3. increased engine noise appears as a result of gear wear.
4. The probability of a low-quality bearing mounted on an asterisk and a crease in the bolt of the tensioner shoe is the same as the low-quality plastic of the tensioner shoe.
5. as a result of wear of timing chains and gears, the resulting metal dust (abrasive) leads to to increased wear of rubbing parts and the engine as a whole. An example of this: the working surfaces of the main and connecting rod bearings on an engine with a mileage of about 400 thousand km have a gray ("steel") coating with obvious signs of metal dust. The connecting rod and main journals of the crankshaft have increased wear.

Rave. In the ZMZ406 family, full-flow oil is used. Filter. All the abrasive will settle there. A gray "steel" coating leaves aluminum in the case when the chain, having "cut through" the grooves in the shoe, begins to cut the cylinder head itself)))
++ Which is better - rolling friction or sliding friction? In applicability to the timing mechanism with a chain drive, I can only say one thing - the appearance of tensioner shoes with sprockets is a big step forward for the durability of the mechanism and the engine as a whole.

All the above observations and conclusions were made as a result of 6 years of work of the Gazelle-Auto car service during the repair of engines of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant.

In conclusion, I would like to say what to put when repairing the timing mechanism - the owner decides .

All over the world, automakers are fighting for "ROAD" (durability) of the engine, but in this case, we can safely say: "For that fought for it and ran".

Sincerely, Vladimir Sevostyanov

Our Internet address: [email protected] we will answer any questions

The gas distribution system is one of the main components of any engine. It includes chain or The latter is less noisy, but at the same time less reliable. The chain never breaks. But it can make noise while working. Today we will consider how the ZMZ-406 timing chain is replaced and what this element is.

Characteristic

This part is the basis of the engine. It is thanks to the chain that you can correctly install the timing phases ZMZ-406. Recall that these are intake, compression, stroke and exhaust. In order not to bend the valves and ensure maximum efficiency, a special chain is used.

It is she who distributes the forces to the camshaft, which opens and closes the engine valves at the right time. Thus, the ZMZ-406 timing system ensures the timely supply of the combustible mixture to the combustion chamber and their exit after the third cycle (power stroke). The result is a powerful and economical engine.

Where is?

ZMZ-406 is located on the crankshaft pulley. It rotates simultaneously with it when the engine is running. Special timing chain dampers ZMZ-406 are also used. They provide the necessary tension of the mechanism.

If it becomes unusable, the ZMZ-406 timing phases will not be installed correctly. The chain will stretch or jump a few teeth. During the operation of the mechanism, a water pump, a hydraulic booster (not on all Gazelles) and an intermediate shaft of the ignition system are activated. With each of these elements, the ZMZ-406 timing chain is closely connected.

About timing problems

The main signs of a breakdown are a decrease in engine power, characteristic pops in the exhaust and intake manifolds, as well as a low level of compression. It should not be less than 10 kilograms per square centimeter. But it is not necessary to buy a new timing kit ZMZ-406. Perhaps only the chain failed. By the way, when it malfunctions, it emits metallic knocks. Such malfunctions of the timing ZMZ-406 can be provoked by a loose fit of the valve seats. As a result, carbon deposits form, valve springs fail. The gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem is not correct. If the engine does not provide sufficient valve opening, this can cause damage to the hydraulic lifters. The gear of the crankshaft and camshaft also wears out. As a result, it is necessary to repair the timing - this is a serious mechanism. To avoid trouble, it is necessary to monitor the chain tension and adjust the damper. This must be done at least once every 80 thousand kilometers. A chain, unlike a belt, is a fairly reliable mechanism. It does not tear and does not provoke bending of the valves, but only stretches during prolonged use. The resource of the gas distribution mechanism chain is about 200 thousand kilometers. The resource of the belt does not exceed 80 thousand. But if you have characteristic symptoms at 150 thousand (meaning the metal knocks of the chain), do not hesitate to replace it. Below we will look at how to repair this system with our own hands.

Tools

In order for the ZMZ-406 timing replacement to be successful, we need to prepare a set of tools. We will need a set of sockets and hex keys, a torque wrench, a hammer and a chisel. Next, consider the phased process of replacing the timing chain ZMZ-406.

Preparatory work

First we need to prepare containers for draining working fluids. First we pour out antifreeze. The GAZelle contains a lot of it, about ten liters. It merges by unscrewing the plug at the bottom of the radiator. Be careful - at first the antifreeze will run with great pressure. As it pours, it will get smaller. It is recommended to use a bulk canister or bucket. It is important that the container is clean. For a better exit of antifreeze, unscrew the cap on the expansion tank.

What's next?

After that, remove the front apron with a radiator grille (if this is a “business” bumper, unscrew its fasteners in the center and on the sides). Next, remove all clamps and pipes that lead to the radiator. We dismantle the last element. If your car is equipped with a hydraulic booster, you must remove the power steering pump drive belt.

We also take out the alternator and pump belts, after loosening the tension. Now remove the cylinder head valve cover. All bolts must be folded into a separate box or niche. This will not affect the repair in any way, but will significantly speed up the assembly process. You do not have to look for where the missing bolt or nut lies, as is often the case. Next, unscrew the viscous fan coupling with the impeller itself.

It is recommended to put the valve cover in a clean and dry place. The presence of dust on its inner side is highly undesirable. Next, the pump and the crankshaft rotation sensor are removed (do not forget to install it in place, otherwise you simply will not start the engine). The next step is to remove the crankshaft pulley and oil pan. Then two fixing bolts are unscrewed. The last element gets out. In total, there are two hydraulic tensioners on the 406th and 405th motors - upper and lower. We need to get both mechanisms. The lower one is disassembled in the same way. Next, we need to remove the chain cover. It is attached with seven bolts. Be careful - you can damage the front crankshaft oil seal and Unscrew the upper tensioner bolt and remove the lever with an asterisk. Next, we unscrew the plastic timing chain damper ZMZ-406. We unscrew the bolts securing the gears to the camshaft flange (there are two of them in this motor). Next, we need another tool. To remove the lower gear, you need to install a minus screwdriver (it will serve as a lever) between it and the second gear.

We bend the end of the locking plate, and, holding the intermediate shaft, insert our tool. We take out the gears and the lower part of the chain from the crankshaft. If there are difficulties with dismantling, it is required to remove the rubber seal between the gear and the bushing. The last element is also dismantled. The second gear is pressed with a puller.

After removing the chain

So let's get the element out. The chain must be thoroughly washed in gasoline and cleaned of dirt. Check out her appearance. After 150 or more thousand kilometers, it stretches by 1-2 centimeters. This is quite enough to provoke improper gas distribution. If there are signs of wear, scuffs and cracks on the mechanism bushings, the mechanism is not subject to further operation. If there are chips on the gears, we also change them for new ones. Check the condition of the dampeners. If there is any damage, replace the element with a new one. Check the tensioner sprockets. They must rotate freely on their axis. There should be no scratches or chips on the working surface.

Reassembly

First you need to correctly set the valve timing. To do this, scroll the crankshaft until the first mark on it coincides with the second on the cylinder block. The piston of the first cylinder should be at top dead center. Next, install the chain guide. We don't tighten the bolts yet. Lubricate the lower chain with engine oil and put it on the driven gear and crankshaft. We install the penultimate one so that the pin enters the hole in the intermediate shaft. The mark on the gear must match the one on the cylinder block. In this case, the part of the chain that passes through the damper will be stretched. We twist the fixing bolts of the gears of the intermediate shaft. A locking plate is installed under them.

It is recommended to use a torque wrench. Tightening torque - from 22 to 25 Nm. When the bolt is tightened with the right moment, this key will start to click - go to the second element. Do not forget to fix both bolts with a locking plate. We bend its edges with a hammer and chisel. Next, we press the tensioner lever and check if the marks on the cylinder block and on the gear coincide. Tighten the damper bolts and lubricate the upper chain. We put it on the gear of the intermediate shaft. We scroll the camshaft clockwise. We put the chain on the second gear. The camshaft pin should enter its hole.

Charging points and marks

Using a four-sided wrench, scroll the camshaft counterclockwise. We stretch the timing chain. The crankshaft and intermediate shaft must not rotate. The marks will line up with the top surface of the cylinder head. Remove the gear from the exhaust camshaft and install the chain on it. Then we put it back, slightly turning the shaft clockwise. The pins must go into the gear hole. We rotate the shaft counterclockwise, pulling the timing chain. Next, install the chain cover and pump. A small layer of sealant should be applied to the top of the cover. Be careful not to damage the front crankshaft oil seal when installing. Next, two hydraulic tensioners and a crankshaft pulley are mounted. On the latter, it is necessary to observe the tightening torque - from 104 to 129 Nm.

In this case, you need to turn on the 5th gear and the parking brake. Hold the crankshaft so that it does not turn. Next, the ratchet is tightened. The latter scrolls two turns. The crankshaft is set to the top dead center position (regarding the first cylinder). Next, install the cylinder head cover. A layer of sealant must be applied to it to prevent oil leaks. The cover is tightened with a torque of about 12 Nm. Next, you need to connect the crankcase ventilation pipe to the fitting on the valve cover. We connect the wires to the ignition coils and put their ends on the candles. We fill back the antifreeze, put the radiator in place and start the engine. If everything was done correctly, the metallic sounds will disappear and the engine power will return to normal. This completes the repair process. The best timing ZMZ-406 is the one on the chain. To the belt drive, many car owners are still skeptical. chain drive many times more reliable. But practice shows that it is losing popularity every year, especially among foreign manufacturers.

Installation problems

There have been cases when the head gasket was damaged during the repair of this mechanism. In this case, it is necessary to cut off its remains with a clerical knife and use a sealant. Also, with this tool, it is necessary to process all the sealing parts of the cover. Sealant drying time - 24 hours.

Conclusion

So, we found out what the gas distribution mechanism is on the GAZelevsky 406th engine. As you can see, replacing the chain does not require additional tools. But in time it takes all day. Therefore, it is worth planning such repairs in advance. At the service station, this service takes about 5 hours. Its cost is six thousand rubles. The very same set of gas distribution mechanism costs about five thousand. It includes chains (small and large), hydraulic tensioners, dampers and camshaft sprockets.

In order for the engine to work on a Volga or Gazelle car in normal mode, it is necessary to correctly set the timing marks on the ZMZ-406. On cars, a chain or belt can be used as a drive. Each type has many advantages and disadvantages, some argue that the chain is not capable of breaking. It is necessary to upset - it is capable, and even how! In addition, for its normal operation, lubrication is required, so when replacing the chain, you really need to disassemble half of the motor and even drain the oil.

Design features

Before installing timing marks on the ZMZ-406, you need to consider the features of this engine.

In total, there are four phases in which the gas distribution system operates:

The inlet of the fuel mixture into the combustion chamber.
Compression stroke.
The working stroke of the piston is the movement from top dead center down.
Release of the fulfilled gases.

An actuator must be used to ensure maximum efficiency and prevent damage to the valves. On motors ZMZ-406 and the like, a metal chain is used.

But the camshafts and crankshafts must be installed according to the marks - this ensures the synchronism of the operation of all mechanisms. allows you to open and close the holes with valves in a timely manner, supplying fuel mixture and releasing combustion products into the atmosphere.

Where is the chain located?

On ZMZ-406 engines, the marks are on the crankshaft and camshafts. The rotation from the crankshaft pulley is transmitted to the distribution. The design of the drive has a special design damper, with its help the chain tension is regulated. If this guide fails, the tension changes and this can cause the chain to jump one or more teeth.

As a result of this, the operation of the motor is disrupted, the phases are shifted. In this case, the wear of mechanisms occurs much faster. The timing chain drives the fluid pump, hydraulic booster pump (if any), intermediate ignition shaft. The operation of several systems at once depends on the state of the drive circuit.

Signs of a broken gas distribution mechanism

Among the main signs of malfunctions in the gas distribution mechanism are:

a significant drop in engine power;
the appearance of pops in the intake and exhaust manifolds;
reduction in compression in the cylinders (the normal value is above 10 kg / sq. cm.).

If the circuit is faulty, it will begin to make a characteristic noise. The cause of breakdowns may be a loose fit of the valve plates to the seats. In this case, the formation of soot is provoked, the springs break. If the chain is replaced in a timely manner, then all these troubles can be avoided.

Typical malfunctions

If the thermal clearances do not correspond to the norm in a certain phase, the opening and closing of the valves will not occur correctly, which causes breakdown of the hydraulic compensators. At the same time, there is a strong wear of the gear on the crankshaft and camshafts. As a result, it will be necessary to repair the motor, replace most of the elements.

When installing timing marks on the ZMZ-406 engine, it is important to follow all the rules. Only in this case, the operation of the gas distribution mechanism will occur in normal mode, the valves will open and close synchronously, in a timely manner, injecting fuel and ejecting combustion products. Try to produce in a timely manner, monitor its condition. The frequency of maintenance is at least once every 80 thousand km. run.

The longer the vehicle is used, the more the chain stretches. At ZMZ-406, its resource is no more than 20 thousand km. run. If symptoms of breakdowns suddenly appear, it is necessary to repair the gas distribution system, replace the worn chain and damper.

Timing Chain Replacement Tools

Before installing timing marks on the ZMZ-406 engine, you need to prepare the necessary set of tools:

Heads and ratchet.
Ring and open-end wrenches.
Hexagons.
The key is dynamometric.
Chisel and hammer.
Pullers with two or three arms.

Be sure to treat all threaded connections that are covered with dust, rust, dirt with a penetrating lubricant - this will allow you to disassemble the units much faster.

Draining antifreeze from the system

First, prepare the containers into which you will need to drain the liquids. First of all, empty the cooling system - there should be quite a lot of antifreeze, about 10 liters. To drain the antifreeze, you need to unscrew the plug located in the lower half of the cooling radiator.

As soon as the plug is unscrewed, the pressure will be very strong, as the level decreases, it will decrease. It is advisable to use a wide container so as not to lose liquid. To make the antifreeze drain faster, you need to unscrew the plug on the expansion tank, increasing the pressure in the system.

The initial stage of disassembly

Remove the front apron and grille. In the event that work is carried out on Gazelle-Business, it is necessary to unscrew the fasteners on the sides and in the center.
Remove all pipes by loosening the fastening clamps.
If there is a hydraulic power steering, remove the pump drive belt.
Remove the alternator drive belt, fluid pump. Before doing this, you need to loosen its tension.
Remove the valve cover by unscrewing all the mounting bolts. Be sure to fold them separately so that you do not lose them during assembly. Be sure to keep the lid in a clean place - it is unacceptable to get foreign elements on its inner surface.
Unscrew the fasteners of the fan impeller drive coupling.
Remove the impeller and clutch.
Remove the fluid pump.
Disconnect and remove the sensor on the crankshaft.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and pan.

Preparatory work will take more time than replacing the chain and installing timing marks ZMZ-406. Their photo is given in the article.

Final dismantling of the drive chain

Further steps to remove the timing chain on the Gazelle engine look like this:

Unscrew the hydraulic tensioner fasteners. You need to get two elements - upper and lower. They take off the same way.
Remove the tensioner housing.
Remove the cover that covers the chain. To do this, unscrew the 7 mounting bolts. Be careful not to destroy the oil seal on the crankshaft and the gasket
After unscrewing the upper hydraulic tensioner bolt, remove the lever and sprocket.
Remove the chain guide.
Unscrew the bolts securing the gear to the camshaft flange (there are two of them on the ZMZ-406 engine).
Bend the lock plate, while you need to keep the intermediate shaft of the ignition system from turning.
Install a screwdriver, use it to remove the gears and the lower edge of the chain.

If difficulties arise, you need to remove the rubber seal, which is located between the bushing and the gear. The dismantling of the second gear is carried out only with the help of a two-legged puller.

After removing the drive

After removing the chain and getting it out, you need to wash it. For this, it is best to use gasoline. After getting rid of contaminants, a visual inspection should be carried out. If it is stretched more than 1-2 cm, it is better to install a new one. Such an increase in length is more than enough to disrupt the valve timing.

You also need to pay attention to:

The condition of the bushings - in the presence of wear, cracks and scoring, it is necessary to replace.
Gears - if there are mechanical damage, chips, then it is also necessary to change them.
Chain guides - in case of slightest damage, install new elements.
Tensioner sprockets - it is necessary that they rotate freely, the presence of chips and damage is unacceptable.

If a major overhaul of the ZMZ-406 engine is being carried out, the timing marks must be installed. This will ensure the normal operation of all systems, increase the life of the motor and its power.

Carrying out assembly

Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to correctly set the phases. To do this, you will need to perform the following manipulations:

Rotate the crankshaft until the first notch is in the top position.
Make sure the piston is at top dead center in the first cylinder.
Install the damper, but do not rush to tighten the bolts of its fastening.
Lubricate the bottom of the chain with clean engine oil.
Put the chain on the gears - the crankshaft and the driven.
The pin of the crankshaft gear must fit into the hole in the intermediate shaft.
Make sure the mark on the gear matches the one on the motor block. The part of the chain that is next to the damper should be taut.
Now you can tighten the pinion bolts on the intermediate shaft. Be sure to install the stop plates.

Be sure to use a torque wrench when carrying out repairs. The maximum tightening torque of the bolts is 22 / 2.5 N * m.

Be sure to bend the lock plate to prevent the bolts from coming loose. Then you need to press the hydraulic tensioner lever and check the coincidence of the marks on the engine block and gear. After that, you need to tighten all the bolts securing the damper and lubricate the upper part of the chain drive.

Timing marks and tightening

To scroll the camshaft, you need to use a four-sided wrench. Turning it clockwise tightens the chain. At the same time, be sure to fix the position of the crankshaft and intermediate shaft - it is impossible for them to rotate. Make sure that the marks on the pulley and the head of the block match. Then perform the following manipulations:

Remove the gear from the exhaust camshaft.
Put a chain on it.
Reinstall the gear by carefully turning the camshaft clockwise.
Make sure the pins fit into the hole on the gear.
Rotate the camshaft clockwise to achieve normal chain tension.
Install cover on chain and fluid pump. It is advisable to apply a little silicone sealant on top of the cover.
Install the crankshaft pulley and hydraulic tensioners. The tightening torque of the threaded connection of the crankshaft pulley is 105..129 N * m. To facilitate tightening, you will need to install the car on the handbrake and turn on fifth gear.
Tighten the ratchet.
Install the block head cover. It is also desirable to apply a layer of silicone sealant on it. puff threaded connections produce with a moment of 12 N * m.
Connect the branch pipe for venting gases from the crankcase.

Then you need to connect all the armored wires and pour antifreeze into the cooling system. In the event that all the work is done correctly, the ZMZ-406 timing marks are set correctly, you will get rid of problems with the motor. Its throttle response will improve, power will increase, extraneous sounds will disappear during operation.