Brief description of the tool for laying bricks. Brick laying tools - working tools Brick corner laying tools

The bricklaying process is not easy and responsible: both the functional and aesthetic properties of the final structure depend on the quality of the work. Masters with many years of experience can boast of the ability to quickly and easily measure the seams, install stone blocks evenly, without special tools. Ordinary inhabitants, erecting, for example, a fence near the house, often use their own strength. To help them, there are a number of tools and fixtures for laying bricks that can facilitate the process of erecting elements and structures.

Devices for work

Ceramic or silicate brick is a classic building element. Nowadays, they are laid out either with some kind of functional layer of the structure, or they are facing, since a wall made only of it is troublesome, labor-intensive and requires a large thickness in order to keep heat in the room. However, whatever the element being arranged, the following bricklaying tool is required to create it:

Trowel (popularly - trowel). It is a spatula for throwing and leveling the solution.
The bucket is used for large volumes of masonry, when you need to lay a lot of mixture.
Jointing - a tool for decorating finished seams on the outside of the wall. May have different sizes and patterns.
A pick (hammer) is needed if something needs to be corrected: to level the position of the brick or to chip off the unnecessary.
Ordering is a professional tool that greatly facilitates the work: it allows you to accurately measure the evenness of the masonry, the position of the bricks relative to each other, form an ornament, mark the opening, pull the cord.

Control intermediaries

The basic set helps to directly lay the bricks on top of each other and decorate the wall. To make the masonry even, you can not do without control tools and fixtures:

The bubble level is indispensable for horizontal alignment of rows.
The plumb bob plays the role of controlling the evenness of the vertical plane and the angles of the tool.
The rule is a flat wide rail for leveling and controlling rows of bricks.
The cord is pulled to orient the rows, their height and evenness.
A square is needed when laying wall intersections.

In the work of the master use the set "Mason". The device for laying bricks in it can be both ordinary and unfamiliar to the townsfolk, but greatly simplifies the work. The set can be purchased from specialized stores. Experienced masons have a personal kit, which includes all the items necessary for a particular master.

Non-standard inventions

In addition to the basic set, there is a special tool for laying bricks, designed to facilitate the work of both an experienced craftsman and a layman. With it, you can align the rows, adjust the thickness of the seam when laying the mortar. Each device for laying bricks is a certain simple design with parameters suitable for performing a given operation (height, width, thickness of the working part).

Ready custom tool

An interesting fixture for quick bricklaying has the form of a tray without a bottom with longitudinal stops at the base.

The width of the device is adjustable, which allows it to be used for different types of dressing. It is designed for uniform laying of the mortar along the entire length and width of the masonry. This tool was invented by the American company Bricky, and serial production of original kits was also launched there. Then cheaper analogues appeared in many countries of the world. Device material - plastic. Unfortunately, the sand, which is part of the masonry mortar, can wear out the surface of the tray, which entails the need for its periodic replacement. But the masters came up with a way out of this situation: the scratched surface is covered with various compositions (enamels, varnishes), which allow extending the life of the tool.

Vertical seams between bricks or blocks also need to be carefully worked out, but it is not so easy to lay the mortar evenly and in the right amount. To do this, there is a similar device of the same production. It limits the area of application of the composition and the thickness of the future seam.

How to apply

The brick laying tool is very easy to use:

Adjust the width of the device to the desired one.
Install it in the direction of work flow.
Fill the form with masonry mortar at the level of the rails.
Remove excess with a trowel.
Move the fixture to the desired distance and repeat the operation.

You should not lay a lot of mortar at once: you need to have time to lay the bricks before the mixture seizes. It is very convenient to move the tray: the stops at the base fix its position relative to the plane of the wall, so it does not have to be constantly corrected.

Since the masonry tool is subject to active wear, you can make a similar tool from scrap materials. To do this, take laminated plywood 10 mm thick or a corner profile, make 2 identical pieces for the sides and 1 for transverse fixation of the width you need. Fasten the parts together and use the finished tool according to the same principle. For convenience, fixing edges from metal corners can be attached to the base of the rails.

What is the price

In different configurations, you can buy a device for laying bricks: the price of the original set is about 3400 rubles.

What does it include:

Tray for horizontal seams.
2 vertical strips for brick and block masonry.
Trowel.
A set of fasteners.
CD with detailed instructions.

Similar sets cost differently, depending on the configuration: a set of horizontal and 2 vertical fixtures can be bought for 600 rubles. (Kovrov). Separate parts are sold on various resources: a tray can be bought for about 1000 rubles.

homemade device

Not everyone can afford to buy a kit that can make work easier. Yes, and this is useless if you want to independently arrange a small stone structure or build a house. It is much easier, cheaper and faster to make a device for laying bricks with your own hands. The craftsmen came up with such a tool: 2 slats are hammered perpendicular to each other - the main one corresponds to the thickness of the future seam, the auxiliary one is attached to the middle or edge of the main plane. Thus, you can make 1 or 2 fixtures that are installed on one or two sides of the masonry.

The brick laying rail is convenient to use: it is used for both horizontal and bonded jointing. The principle of operation is similar to the use of the American model: they are installed along the masonry, the mortar is laid, the excess is removed and the blocks or bricks are installed.

The process of erecting a brick wall is a responsible task, the quality of which will determine the strength and safety of any structure. The whole difficulty lies in the need to comply with many parameters, ranging from the correct identification of axial planes, interelement dimensions and ending with the mixing of adhesive solutions. All this affects both the external data of the masonry itself, and its technical features, which manifest themselves in the process of use. That is why a special device for laying bricks is required - purchased or made by hand, the essence of this does not change.

What tool is needed?

Construction work associated with laying stone requires special experience, care and investment of a large amount of time, which, in addition to the main work, will be required to solve measurement problems.

For quick laying of bricks, it is necessary to use a specialized tool. You can buy a set in an online store, however, these kits today have a relatively high cost, besides, the standard equipment will not allow you to take into account all the technical characteristics of the material itself and the design features of the structure.

The entire set of equipment used can be divided into three main categories:

main elements,
control and measuring devices,
mechanical fixtures.

Basic tools for laying bricks

The design consists of a blade and a holder. With the help of a trowel, a cement or other binder material is applied to the upper surface and uniformly distributed over them. Trowels can also be used if it is necessary to cut and remove excess binder mixture already on the erected wall. They, if necessary, chip off the solution.

Trowels are conditionally divided into two types: K-B - a triangular shape of the blade, K-P - the working element has rounded corners and a pointed upper base zone.

Stitching

Designed to check the layer of the applied solution and give it a certain shape. It consists of a handle and an elongated working part with a certain formwork, in the form of which the subsequent formation of joints will be performed. The gutter profile can be concave or convex.

It is used in several basic stone cutting tasks to create the required shape, correct incorrect installation without dismantling the blocks and using light tapping technology. Kirochka is produced in two types - with a rounded working element and a wide, square one.

VIDEO: Checking the "Mason's Set"

Control and measuring devices

These devices are required in order for the stone installation process to be carried out with the most accurate dimensions.

A small load, weighing 200-400 g, made in the form of a cone with a pointed end, fixed to the base with a synthetic inelastic thread, 300 cm long. not less than 600 grams.

Required to track the level of deviation of vertical and horizontal planes. It consists of an elongated rectangular body with a built-in ampoule partially filled with a special liquid. It is the air bubble that determines the level of slope - for an ideal straight line, it must be strictly in the center.

Acts as a control cord for lining, stretched along the rows of laid bricks.

Template for laying bricks, ordering

A variety of rails, rulers, squares, designed to control the size and correctness of shapes.

Mechanized devices for laying bricks

These indispensable tools at hand can reduce the labor and effort required for manual work to measure and control the construction process.

Allows you to accurately measure the required volumes of cement mortar for a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe joint and at the same time give the cement the appropriate shape. The tool has an elementary design of walls and side stops, without a bottom.

A flat vessel with a marking mechanism, adjustable length and modern supporting elements in the form of screw clamps.

Complex dispenser

The package includes a level and other instrumentation.

How to work with facing material?

The main purpose of laying facing bricks is to decorate the facade, with its help it is possible to form a general appearance in one stylistic direction.

Decorative stone has specific shapes and textures that complicate the process of its installation and drawing a straight line. Consider the main difficulties that you may encounter in the process.

Rough fixtures are considered unsuitable for decorating walls with facing stone.
It is important to comply with the individual requirements corresponding to such a facing material - temperature, humidity, work time.
It is necessary to use a connecting solution with additional viscosity-enhancing impurities and shading components.
Complicated work technology using a thin or too thick type of facing stone.
The occurrence of difficulties in creating curly stacking of elements.

In this case, it is very important to use mechanical devices that affect the accuracy and aesthetic appearance of the finished work.

Bricklayer kit

The construction market offers a wide range of fixtures, mason kits that have parts from all major tool categories.

The most requested "Brick" sets and similar imported "Bricky" sets include:

cuvette, allowing an even layer to apply the solution;
control elements;
trowel, ordering and mooring;
sample.

Homemade

Some of the tools can be made with your own hands, for which you need wood slats, plywood sheet or chipboard, steel profile.

Regardless of what the building material consists of, aluminum or steel, the following elements will serve as the structural elements of a do-it-yourself brick laying device:

Frame

It is made of durable cross-type beams with dimensions corresponding to the width of the block. It can be made in the form of a stationary or sliding device.

boards

They act as a height and width limiter when there is a need to install additional parts.

Thrust parts

They are mounted directly on the frame itself and are intended for fixing the structure on the first rows of brickwork.

Required for cleaning only erected chimneys, ventilation ducts and other cone-shaped structures from the influx of mortar. Outwardly, it is a plate with dimensions of 140x140 or 150x150 mm, fixed on a long metal stick, with which the sags are scraped off.

If the mop blade is made of rubber, it is possible to fill the seams from the inside in this way and level the surface.

It is necessary to perform an even layer, the entire surface depends on the quantity and straightness of which. If there is a lot of mortar, the brick will lie crooked, if it is not enough, it will sag and pull all the other elements with it.

In order to accurately determine the measure, a dispenser is used. This is a tray along the width of the assembled wall, in the center of which a hole for the solution is cut. Dispensers are made, as a rule, immediately for 3-4 bricks, so that it turns out faster. In fact, the tray rises above the wall by several minimeters, which determine the thickness of the solution.

Such homemade products do not require a lot of time and money, while almost all individual building factors can be taken into account.

VIDEO: How to build a brick fence. The most beautiful fences

The brick house is reliable and durable. With high quality masonry, it will provide reliable protection from cold, wind and precipitation. The quality of the work depends on the choice of materials, the construction of the wall and the observance of the brick laying technology.

With a large thickness of the seams, the construction becomes more expensive, caused by the overspending of the expensive solution, and its heat-shielding characteristics decrease. There is an opposite case, incomplete filling of the joints with a cement-sand mixture, the so-called wasteland. In this case, the strength of the structure decreases; in the worst case, the room is blown with cold air through the cracks in the walls.

To comply with the technology of conducting work, it is necessary to have all the required tools and use them correctly.

Kinds

Tools fall into three categories:

workers, for laying bricks and mortar;
to control the verticality and horizontality of masonry;
scaffolding and forests.

The third category is necessary to ensure that the mason has access to the wall being built. Usually, the laying of the floor is divided into three tiers, the first is performed without scaffolding, for the second and third they are necessary. Scaffolding is a flooring on supports and provides builders with ease of laying.

Scaffolding is used at very high floor heights, for example, for the construction of industrial facilities.

Tools

Trowel- a trowel for conducting brickwork. Steel spatula with wooden handle. Needed for leveling and trimming the solution. This widely used fixture can be called the most versatile masonry tool. Experienced masons use it even instead of a pickaxe;
Hammer–Kirochka or pick - a hammer with a sharp end for fitting bricks. They can prick stones of the required size;
mortar shovel(bucket-shovel) is necessary for supplying and applying mortar to rows of bricks. It also mixes the solution in the box;
mop- a device for leveling the seams of ventilation ducts. It is a rubber square plate with a side of 14 centimeters (ventilation duct width) with a steel handle;
Joints are used to process the seams of the lined walls.

Testing and measuring tools

plumb line- a heavy metal sleeve tied to a cord. The higher the height of the wall, the greater the weight of the plumb line is used to reduce the error. A plumb line checks the corners, the verticality of window and door openings, pillars and piers;
Wooden square, whose sides measure 50 and 70 centimeters. A right angle is formed between the legs, allowing you to check the perpendicularity of the surfaces;
rule- a wooden or duralumin rail used to check the evenness of the wall. To do this, the tool is applied with an edge to the surface so that the guide is vertical. If the masonry is done with high quality, along the edges the rail fits snugly against the wall and does not move vertically;
ordering- a device made of corners or slats, with applied divisions, measuring the rows of masonry vertically;
Cord-mooring stretched between orders and lighthouses where strict control of evenness and thickness of horizontal seams is needed;
Building level- a tool that allows you to easily check the horizontal and vertical surfaces. Such a tool is useful not only for the work of masons, but also for the removal of axes, checking foundation work, interior decoration and other processes. The most commonly used bubble tool. The most accurate and easy-to-use laser level, but it is also the most expensive.

In addition to all this, metal buckets are used as additional devices, in which the solution is brought to the place of work of the bricklayer, flat metal containers for mixing it. Workers wear heavy gloves to protect their hands.

Cladding tools

Laying of facing bricks is the most important process of stone work. For high-quality performance, it requires experienced workers, the availability of all the tools listed above.

For cutting bricks, a grinder with stone discs or a cutting machine is often used. The laying of the first rows of bricks is checked using a level. To lay the mortar of the required thickness, special templates are used that allow a ten-millimeter seam to be made. To give the finished surface a neat look, jointing is used.

Price

Below is the average cost of all the necessary tools for masonry work.

trowel - from 150 to 300 rubles;
pickaxe hammer - about 200 rubles;
mortar shovel about 300 rubles;
embroidery on average 150 rubles for each;
aluminum rule 1.5 meters 400-500 rubles, 1 meter from 300;
prices for a magnetic building level start at 1200 rubles, a simple bubble tool will cost 500 rubles;
a bricklayer's cord is sold for 200 rubles per 50 meters.

Plumb, order and square can be done independently. There are buckets in every household, but if necessary, you will have to pay from 100 rubles for one. The total cost of tools is approximately two and a half thousand.

DIY brickwork

Work can be carried out in grips or in a ring way. For ease of installation during design, the dimensions of the piers should be taken “by brick”, that is, 120, 250, 380, 510 millimeters, and so on in increments of 130. In this case, you do not have to cut artificial stones.

To ensure the strength of the structure, it is performed with ligation, avoiding long continuous vertical seams. By type of dressing, the masonry is divided:

single-row, when there is an alternation of spoon and tychkovy rows;
multi-row, when there is one bonder row for several spoon rows.

Spoon row of masonry - a row of bricks that goes to the facade with a spoon, that is, a long edge. The tychkovy row is formed by bricks that come out with a short edge.

Work order:

waterproofing device along the edge of the foundation;
laying corners to a height of 3-5 rows of stone;
checking the horizontal, vertical and perpendicularity of the laid masonry;
pulling the cord to indicate the first row. If the thickness of the masonry is more than 25 centimeters, the rope is pulled from both the inside and the outside;
laying out the mixture at the place of masonry and leveling it;
laying the stone and controlling the coincidence of the upper edge with the mooring cord;
removal of excess solution from the front side;
if further plastering of the wall is not provided, before the mortar dries, the seams are given an aesthetic appearance by means of jointing;
raising the mooring cord by one row;
checking the verticality of the laid wall.

Points 5 to 9 are repeated until the desired height is reached.

brick wall reinforcement

Regulatory documents require mandatory transverse reinforcement of building walls with steel wire every 5 rows for bricks 65 mm thick, every 4 rows for 88 mm bricks and every three rows for ceramic stone. Sufficient nets of rods of class Bp1 (wire reinforcement) or A1 (smooth reinforcement) with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

If there are ventilation ducts in the wall or the pier is too small, but the ceilings rest on it, it is necessary to strengthen the structure by laying additional reinforcing meshes.

Finally

Compared to the cost of masonry, the cost of materials is a small amount. In fact, buying all the materials will cost less than laying a cubic meter of brick without taking into account the materials.

When self-laying, it is important to control:

the thickness of the seams, it should not exceed 12 millimeters and be less than 0.6 centimeters;
vertical masonry deviation is permissible by 1 centimeter to the height of the floor and by 3 centimeters when checking the entire wall;
there should not be areas where the "waste" (lack of mortar in the seams) is more than 6 centimeters.

With the observance of technology, a brick wall will last a long time and become a reliable protection.

The main tool used by a bricklayer is a trowel. The builder practically does not let go of it during the whole working day. It is no wonder that every specialist is trying to choose for himself the most convenient masonry fixture. Thanks to him, the hand gets tired less, and the work progresses faster.

What is a trowel (trowel)

The trowel is a metal spatula equipped with a handle. On sale there are several basic options. The models differ from each other in the size of the plate, the thickness of the metal and the material from which the handle is made.

There are trowels designed for masonry, plastering and concrete work. Certain construction operations present their own requirements for trowels. For example, a device for leveling concrete is large and durable. The bricklayer's trowel looks narrower and more elegant against its background. After all, a cement-sand mortar is lighter than concrete, and it should not be scooped up in such large portions.

Plaster analogue - universal. If necessary, it can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also for a wide range of tasks, including masonry or concrete leveling.

Classical forms of the working part of the tool (scapula): triangle, trapezoid, heart.

The differences described relate to devices for representatives of various specialties. A novice bricklayer will be primarily interested in a trowel for building walls.

What to look for when choosing a trowel?

First you need to decide on the type of masonry. In practice, it is divided into draft and facing. The first includes the construction of internal walls, as well as the backfilling of the outer verst. To the second - the front part of the building.

An inexperienced builder is likely to be trusted with main walls and inter-apartment / interior partitions.

Capital walls are massive. A lot of mortar is required for their construction. In addition, they are erected quickly and not as neatly as facing, because later they are covered with a layer of plaster.

These features left their mark on the appearance of the trowel for rough masonry:

large working part for greater capture of the solution;
a decent thickness of the metal makes the trowel durable;
impressive weight for knocking bricks and blocks;

Such a trowel must be reliable. The daily load on the tool is impressive. Any flaws in the tool almost immediately make the tool unusable.

The weakest point of the trowel is the fastening of the handle to the blade. If the weld is not of sufficient quality, the masonry device breaks into two parts. Of course, if you have a welding machine at hand, you can restore it, but this takes time.

Trowels equipped with a wooden handle have another problematic place. Over time, the fastening of the bent metal rod loosens, and the handle begins to scroll. Working with a master becomes inconvenient. It's not so much the load on the tool, but the high humidity. Under the influence of dampness, the wood is destroyed.

Tool repair consists in increasing the diameter of the metal handle by wrapping it with a nylon cord, and subsequent processing with glue. An alternative is to carefully hammer in a couple of short nails.

Trowels with plastic handles do not have this drawback. This is due to their high popularity among masons.

The facing trowel looks more "toy". And all because with its help slightly different tasks are solved. When laying the outer side of the building, the main emphasis is on cleanliness, beauty and accuracy. A rough tool is not suitable for this.

The most commonly used blades are in the form of a trapezoid. Their advantage is the blunt tip. It is convenient for them to apply the solution to the end part of the brick. As a result, vertical mortar joints are well filled.

Slightly less common is a trowel in the form of a petal. They differ from a shoulder blade resembling a heart in a more elongated shape.

Unlike a trapezoid, it has a narrow, rounded tip. It is more difficult for them to throw mortar on the short side of the brick. You have to make an additional movement to level the solution on the surface. Another small minus is that it is inconvenient for them to free the bucket from the remnants of the cement-sand mixture.

When choosing a trowel for facing work, attention should be paid to the handle. Or rather, her back. It is desirable that it be equipped with additional protection - a metal cap.

As noted above, the outer side of the building is laid out as beautifully as possible. To lay the bricks in even rows, they often have to be corrected and knocked out. Some builders do this with the edge of a metal spatula. Others - the end of the handle.

If the metal is more or less tolerant of impacts, then softer materials (plastic, wood) are quickly erased. A strong tip helps to insure against such a nuisance. Unfortunately, not all models are equipped with them. There are two ways to fix the situation. A metal bolt heated on fire is fused into the plastic handle. A self-tapping screw with a wide hat is screwed into a wooden one. With such homemade protection, the trowel will serve faithfully for many years.

When choosing a tool for work on a construction site, be sure to hold it in your hand. Feel how comfortable it is to manipulate. Experienced masons say that a good trowel should resemble a tablespoon. Be inconspicuous and roomy.

For construction, repair and finishing work, different trowels, trowels, building rules, trowels and graters are needed. These simple devices make the job much easier and faster. They are used when laying bricks and building blocks, for leveling concrete screed, jointing, plastering, laying tiles and a host of other works. It is only important to choose the right tool.

Let's also make a reservation that a trowel and a trowel are the same devices, just a "trowel" is more often used in colloquial speech, and a "trowel" is used in technical descriptions and standards. There are many tools, and they are all different. We will figure out which one is needed for what.

This device consists of a steel plate and a handle welded at an angle. It is precisely the shape of the plate, its thickness and weight that are selected for each type of work. At the same time, the choice is individual, although it is worth listening to the advice of the masters.

The shape of the steel blade of the trowel can be:

triangular;
rectangular;
trapezoid;
drop-shaped;
oval.

In addition, there are special plastering trowels for removing internal and external corners, as well as trowels for aerated concrete.

Plasterer's tools

The plaster trowel should have even edges - it is more convenient to level the surfaces. Therefore, they usually choose a rectangular or trapezoidal shape. In terms of size, the blades are the most popular among finishers - from 12 cm.

But this is not all the tools that are necessary for plastering. First of all, it is required to throw the surface with a solution. A trowel, even a large one, will not take much, and if you have to plaster large areas, then you need to throw in hundreds of kilograms. For these purposes, special plaster buckets are made.

They have a hemispherical or cylindrical shape with a small flat bottom. The inner walls are well polished, so that with a sharp movement, the solution flies almost without residue. The bucket handle is made of plastic or wood.

When plastering on beacons, a rule is used to level the mortar. This is a long, flat plank of wood or metal. If we talk about a professional tool, then it is usually made of aluminum alloy. Since this metal is soft, the working edge is often reinforced with a steel strip. In cross section, the rule for plaster can be trapezoidal or look like the letter "h". There is also a rule with a level, but it is more often used on horizontal surfaces - such a tool may come in handy when. It will be especially useful when forming a slope towards the drain in the washing or steam room of the bath. So - take on arms.

Separately, it should be said about construction trowels and graters. Graters are called small plastic or wooden boards with handles that are convenient to level - rub over plastered surfaces. There is also a trowel - this is a tool similar in shape, but larger.

There is also a plaster trowel - this is already a metal plate with a handle welded on top. It is also used for leveling surfaces, but small sizes. Wide spatulas are also used for plastering - the blade length of such a tool can be from 10 to 80 cm.

When leveling the surface with a spatula, stripes often remain that remain from the corners. This is the misfortune of amateur builders who simply cannot know some of the subtleties. To prevent such stripes from remaining, it is necessary to slightly bend the blade, bending the corners to the non-working side. And many more spatulas have a pre-bent blade. So this is not a marriage, but a tool prepared for work.

mason's tool

When laying bricks, it is often necessary to pick up excess mortar. It is more convenient to do this if the blade has the shape of a triangle. Because the mason's trowel is triangular, with even edges. In this case, the edge of the shoulder blade can be straight or rounded - this is a matter of habit. As well as the thickness of the handle and the dimensions of the working surface - choose "for yourself".

According to GOST (9533-81):

for furnace and stone work, a tool with a blade length of 160 mm and a base width of 100 mm is suitable;
for concrete and stone work - 200 mm long and 160 mm wide.

So the standard will not help either - the choice is up to the master. But the second option is good because you can capture a solid portion of the solution, although the weight of the gun itself, and even with the solution, is very considerable. So to work with a big trowel, the strength in the hands is required heroic.

According to the thickness of the metal for the bricklayer's trowel: the thickness of the blade must be at least 1 mm. So she does not "play" and does not bend during work. Some masons prefer to work with a heavy tool at least 2-3 mm thick. You will not find this in stores, you need to either make it yourself or order from someone. Why do masons need heavy trowels? In order to quickly - with one or two blows - set bricks or blocks according to the level. But this is, again, an individual matter and it takes strength and skill to turn such a “shovel”.

There are some nuances to the handle. They are made from wood, plastic and high density rubber. The most popular are wooden ones. They are good because they can be turned “by hand” if necessary. But some consider rubberized ones to be more comfortable - they fit well in the hand and are more comfortable to hold.

There are trowels in which the steel rod passes through the handle and ends with a flattened nickel. When upsetting, they knock on a brick. For some, the sound that is heard during this is annoying, and they do not use such trowels. But there is another way out - to put a rubber stopper on the iron. And it is convenient to work, and there are almost no sounds.

The tilt of the handle is also an individual matter. The angle changes simply - bent a little in the right direction and that's it. An important role in laying bricks or blocks is played by the height at which this handle is located. It is desirable that it be at least 4-5 mm. At such a distance, when tapping on a brick with a handle, the solution remaining on the spatula does not fall into your hands, but flies past.

Everyone selects the tool “for themselves”, but focusing on the rules and recommendations

You also need to figure out the metal from which the blade is made. There is a tool made of stainless steel, there is a black one. The peculiarity of stainless steel is that while the tool is new, the solution flies off its surface. While you adapt, you will say many pleasant words ... Some people do not like black metal because it rusts. But, after finishing work, all tools are washed and wiped dry every day. With proper care, they simply have no time to rust.

What you should pay attention to is that the junction of the handle and the blade is well polished so that there are no pits and irregularities: it is in this place that it is difficult to wash out the solution, and if there are also flaws in the surface treatment, then really clean hard.

Tool for aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks are good because they can be cut with a conventional saw for wood. The main thing is that her teeth are hardened.

When laying aerated concrete blocks, not a cement-sand mortar is used, but a special glue. It must be applied in an even thin layer of 3 mm. Doing this with ordinary trowels is not very convenient. Therefore, there are special tools for aerated concrete work: this is a carriage or a special plastic or metal trowel.

The carriage is a metal box into which glue for aerated concrete is poured. One of its walls is movable, its bottom is decorated in the form of teeth. The dimensions of the device are adjusted to the dimensions of the blocks. They are installed on the block, glue is poured, then the device is pulled over the surface, distributing the composition in an even layer. How is the laying of aerated concrete with a carriage, see the video.

A positive point: when working with aerated concrete carriages, you do not need to constantly throw up glue, it is distributed evenly. If the length of the walls is large, the speed of laying blocks increases - the composition is applied faster. It remains only to clean and lay the blocks.

More cons:

One of the options for a carriage of a simple design for aerated concrete, made by craftsmen with their own hands, can be seen in the video.

A trowel for aerated concrete works is an elongated plastic or metal bucket with a handle. The lower edge of the container is decorated with teeth. In width, it exactly matches the dimensions of the blocks, as it is installed from above.

The bucket with glue installed on the block is pulled over the surface. In this case, you need to slightly raise the handle so that the composition is poured onto the wall. An even layer here without the help of a trowel cannot be achieved. For leveling, use a spatula with teeth, which is usually used in tile work.

For laying aerated concrete blocks, you will also need a rubber mallet - they beat the block with a level. The verticality of the walls is controlled. What else is needed is a manual wall chaser. In order for the building to be durable, the walls are reinforced. Since the adhesive layer is only 3 mm, it will not work to “drown” them. Therefore, strobes are cut out in aerated concrete. This can be done with a power tool or using a handheld wall chaser. The device is simple and easy to work with: it is a rounded blade mounted on metal pipes with handles.

You can see all the tools for working with aerated concrete in action in the video.

Finishing Tools

During the construction of the bath, finishing work is mainly wood. What else is found is this. To apply glue to the tile, a trowel with rounded ends is usually used (and near the handle too). This shape is also called "oval". Its dimensions are often small - up to 10-12 cm. But, like any hand tool, everyone selects it for himself.

Sometimes it is more convenient to apply glue to the tile with a rectangular or trapezoidal trowel. It's not exactly by the rules, but the rules have nothing to do with convenience.

What else is used when laying tiles - a notched trowel. They level the glue on the surface. The size of the "tooth" is selected depending on the required thickness of the adhesive and the size of the tile. The value of the trowel tooth, depending on the size of the tile, is given below:

Decorative plasters are gaining more and more popularity. They look great, can be washed with a brush, some are water-repellent. In baths and saunas, they are rarely used because of the very high price of compositions that are suitable for their characteristics. But still, it does not hurt to know that plastic trowels are used for their application. Their shape and size, as well as the application technique, are recommended for each type of plaster.