Today's palette of used plumbing fixtures in everyday life has many samples with different technical characteristics, complexity of execution. The toilet itself is endowed with a fairly simple, conservative design.

The main role of the flush tank is the accumulation of water and the flushing of sewage. Having determined the cause of the breakdown of the tank, you can easily cope with the repair.

How to repair a toilet bowl

Few will try to challenge the thesis that the toilet is one of the most used household plumbing fixtures. That's why it fails most of the time. And the most vulnerable place on the toilet is the cistern.

Most common flush tank failure:

• water flow between the tank and the toilet;
• the tank is not filled with water;
• continuous draining of water from the tank into the toilet;
• the button for draining water from the tank does not work;
• the tank fills with water too noisily.

The listed faults do not require technically complex actions. Everyone is able to repair the tank.

Design features of the flush tank

The lever system, along with the float and valve mechanisms, work on the principle of a hydraulic shutter. After pressing the button, the water from the tank is sent to the toilet. The water supply valve opens. After filling with water to the required level, the valve closes the water supply to the tank.

float system

It is designed to maintain the required water level in the tank. During operation, there comes a moment when water from the tank constantly flows into the toilet. The reasons may be the following:

• Lever tilt. Since all parts are plastic, the lever must be leveled and placed in a strictly horizontal position 2-2.5 cm below the water inlet.
• Float tightness broken. Water is drawn into the cracked float, and it is located in the lower position. The intake valve is permanently open. This float needs to be replaced.
• Operating wear of the valve. With such a malfunction, water constantly enters the tank and flows through the overflow tube into the toilet. The locking gasket does not perform its functions due to increased rigidity. The valve train needs to be replaced.

Water leak between cistern and toilet

Such a malfunction is typical if the cuff, which performs the role of a cistern with a toilet bowl in one piece, has lost its seal at the point of contact, has become less elastic, or has even burst. It needs to be replaced.

To do this, the bolt fasteners are released, having previously released all the water from the tank. The place where the cuff fits to the tank and the toilet bowl is cleaned of accumulated dirt and rust (see). When installing a new cuff, it is recommended to apply silicone water-repellent sealant to the fittings.

The place of water leakage may be the gaskets of the mounting bolts. If tightening the bolts does not give a positive result, these gaskets must be replaced. Such work must be carried out with great care. Excessive tightening of the bolts or weakened will not give the expected result.

Leakage at the connection points of the water hose is eliminated by simply tightening the fixing nuts.

The tank does not fill with water

In this case, it is necessary to check the operation of the supply flexible pipeline. Having blocked the possible access of water with a valve, we disconnect the hose from the tank. Directing it into any container, open the valve. With a serviceable hose, water flows with a reliable pressure. If not, the flexible hose must be replaced after checking the connection to the main pipeline. If the hole is clogged, it must be cleaned with a wire.

If, with a working flexible pipeline, water does not enter the tank, the inlet valve is faulty. It is recommended to completely replace it with a new one.

Continuous draining of water from the tank

In this case, it is necessary to identify the cause of the constant flow of water from the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to check the tightness of the outlet membrane to the sanitary ware. To do this, you need to flush the water several times. The membrane can warp, move. If necessary, clean contaminated areas, remove rust, rinse several times with water.

There is a high probability of skew, deformation of the float. In this case, the water will go through the overflow device. Replacing the float (in case of a malfunction), the intake valve is the way to solve this problem.

If, after performing all the above manipulations, water leaks, it is necessary to replace the outlet membrane. Due to the multitude of their diversity, it is difficult to find the right “style”, it is better to buy a whole new drain mechanism and install it in the tank.

The presented video shows in detail the algorithm for replacing the shut-off valves in the toilet cistern.

Tank button not working

The failure of the flush button on the tank is due to damage to the rod. To repair it, it is necessary to remove the button from the tank cover (by scrolling the locknut near the button). The button shaft must be cleaned of possible blockages and deposits. Replace the damaged rod with a new one or a temporary one, independently made of wire. Assemble the button in reverse order.

How to eliminate excessive noise in the tank

This phenomenon is inherent in tanks with a side top water connection. The annoying sound when filling the drain tank with water is eliminated in the simplest way:

• You will need a small piece of plastic or silicone pipe with a slightly larger diameter than the inlet. Put a pipe 30-35 cm long on the inlet fitting and lower the other end below the water level in the drained tank. Water ceases to fill the toilet bowl with pressure and additional noise.
• If the first option is ineffective, it is necessary to install a stabilizing float valve that regulates the flow of water into the tank.

In some cases, only a complete replacement of the drain device will eliminate the noise of the water filling the tank.

Two-button tank: features of the device and repair

Tanks with a two-button drain allow you to minimize water consumption. Such plumbing fixtures operate in two modes: standard and economical weirs. If two buttons are installed, one is smaller and the drain “takes” 2-4 liters of water. Big button - 6-8 l. The modern industry produces a one-button tank with a double button function. The first press of the button is a complete drain, the second press is the termination of the drain.

Typical malfunctions of such tanks:

• The location of the buttons. If pressing the button again does not work, you must carefully remove the cover by unscrewing the retaining ring first. Clean the button stroke shaft from deposits, lubricate with vaseline oil and install in reverse order.
• The water does not drain. Remove the cover as described in the previous paragraph, check for defects, the integrity of the connecting fittings, replace if necessary, as described above.
• Constant flow of water. Adjust drain valve to drain or replace. When overflowing, adjust the height of the float in the reservoir chamber by simply raising or lowering the adjusting screw. If such actions do not give a positive result, it is necessary to replace the entire drain mechanism.

Repair of such a tank is carried out with the water supply system turned off.

The tank lid is removed as described above. If water leaks at the connection point, it is necessary to tighten the fastening of the inlet fitting or replace the gaskets with new ones, having previously lubricated them with silicone sealant.

If the water pressure in the main water supply is weak, the diaphragm valve of the filling hole may not work. In this case, it is rational to replace such a valve with a rod valve.

Buttonless tank

Such tanks of the outdated “a la pull the string” system are still used in old houses. The tank is fixed, as a rule, on the wall at a level of +1.5 m from the floor. The trigger mechanism is lever. The descent of water occurs in full at one time.

The valve mechanism for filling and descent is not much different from those described in this article. Accordingly, the repair is carried out by the same methods. The lid of such a tank is not fixed, it is held by its own weight. When removing, it requires extra care due to the possibility of mechanical damage.

Toilet lid lifter repair

The use of microlift lids on modern toilets is becoming increasingly popular. Like every mechanism, the microlift wears out over time, becomes unusable, and requires repair. Knowing all the difficulties and features, it is possible to repair the toilet lid microlift with your own hands.

The design feature of such a cover is the use of a spring and a rod, filling the shock absorber with silicone filler.

The main reason for the breakdown of the microlift in the toilet lid is regular attempts to manually, forcefully close the lid. Since the spring is designed for smooth compression, the applied forces disrupt the operation of the device, failures and malfunctions appear. “Overzeal” in manual closing of such a cover leads to a complete failure of the closing mechanism, and its replacement is required.

Parts of the mechanism that have become unusable due to natural wear and tear must be replaced.

The disassembly of the closing mechanism is carried out on the dismantled product, paying attention to all the design details. The right and left mechanisms are disassembled alternately.

Proper determination of the causes of failure, professional selection of components and lubricants will extend the overhaul period of operation of the toilet lid microlift.

The cause of failures in the operation of elevators is the accumulation of grease in one of the cylinder compartments. It must be evenly distributed throughout the cylinder. Add if necessary. The assembly of the product is carried out in strict observance of the reverse order of disassembly.

The lubricant must be selected with the help of a specialized company to maximize the use of the product's operating life.

DIY toilet repair Gustavsberg and its modifications

High-quality and prestigious, the world leader in durability and wear resistance is the Swedish-made Gustavsberg toilet. Made from high-quality Swedish porcelain, equipped with fittings from the German company Geberit, toilet bowls are subject to repair after 6-8 years of operation.

Despite the high quality of the installed fittings, like any plumbing equipment, it wears out and must be replaced. All types of Gustavsberg toilets can be repaired with your own hands, with the exception of those with electronic control.

Hard water in the plumbing system, wear on the mechanisms inside the flush tank are the main causes of toilet failure.

The addition of a toilet water filter will help extend the life between repairs. The use of flavoring preparations added to the toilet water also leads to premature wear of the fittings.

After the warranty period has expired, it is still necessary to carry out repair work in the toilet bowl. Due to the increased hardness and high salinity of water, drain and filling mechanisms must be revised: open the tank, remove deposits, replace worn parts.

Removing the release button must be done with great care. It is not recommended to remove buttons that are not round on your own - an experienced plumber is needed here. The round one is removed, although easily, but there are nuances that must be taken into account by studying the design features of the button. By damaging the fragile latch, the button will not return to its original place after being pressed.

The failure of the drain mechanism is often associated with a breakdown, wear of the thrust. It is very easy to replace it following the example of domestic mechanisms. However, it is necessary to install a new one only the original one, purchased in specialized Gustavsberg stores or services.

As with all domestic toilets, the main problem is the leakage of water from the tank into the toilet bowl. Such a breakdown, in most cases, is associated with the deformation of the gasket, called a pear. The pear is located on a rod that is easily removed from the tank after removing the button.

A broken filling device can cause leakage. Slow filling of the tank with water due to contamination of the valve mechanism with impurities and dirt contributes to the leakage of water into the toilet bowl. Cleaning this mechanism is not difficult, except for knowing the rules for disassembling the button, removing the cover, which require special, delicate skills.

Only solid knowledge and skills in dismantling the Gustavsberg brand toilet bowl are the key to successful repair work.

How to fix a crack in a toilet?

Modern toilet bowls are made of high-quality ceramics - porcelain, which is subject to deformation during a sharp temperature drop, physical impact.

Reasons for the formation of cracks:

• pouring boiling water into the toilet leads to a sharp temperature drop, the ceramics burst;
• improper installation of a plumbing fixture - loose or overtightened bolts of fastening to the base lead to unnecessary “efforts” in the design of the toilet bowl, which leads to the formation of cracks;
• mechanical damage to the plumbing fixture by falling objects, as a result of which we get chips, chips, cracks.

Ways to eliminate cracks

To seal cracks, chips and chips, the domestic industry produces a lot of waterproof adhesives for ceramics, representatives of which are Epoxy Glue, Mars, Rapid.

In places of the toilet, where tightness does not play a big role, chips and cracks are sealed with any universal moisture-resistant adhesive. After the stripping, drying and degreasing of the gluing site, glue is applied, the part to be glued is pressed and fixed (it can be with adhesive tape). After complete drying, the place of gluing is polished.

For sealing cracks where there is water, it is better to use a two-component epoxy adhesive. The place of gluing is prepared: it is dried from moisture, cleaned from mud deposits and degreased with acetone. Pre-prepared glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued. The glued parts are compressed and fixed motionless. Residual glue is removed. After complete drying, the gluing place is rubbed with fine sandpaper and polished with felt to prevent the accumulation of dirt in the glued place.

Before gluing a through crack, its edges are drilled through with a small drill to prevent its increase in length. Throughout the crack, it deepens with a turbine.

Having completed all the preparatory work for cleaning and degreasing the resulting expanded crack, a two-component epoxy resin is applied. Excess resin is removed during application. After drying, it is necessary to perform the entire complex of grinding operations described above.

When using the impeller, overheating of the body of the ceramic toilet bowl is not allowed, because this can lead to new damage.

Types of toilet blockages and how to remove them

Even the most zealous owner has unforeseen situations due to blockage of the sewer. This is not always due to a personal attitude to the use of sewer systems. They can occur for various reasons.

Types of blockages:

• Operational blockages. This type is inherent in every sewer system during long-term operation. On the walls of pipes, especially metal ones, "raids" of deposits form. The throughput of pipes decreases, which creates conditions for the formation of blockages.
• Blockages are mechanical. They arise as a result of the ingress of foreign objects, not without the help of a person, into the sewer system.
• Technological blockages. Violation of the technology for performing installation work on the installation of sewer systems (the design slope or reverse slope of sewer pipes is not maintained, the estimated diameter is underestimated, unsuitable pipe material) leads to the formation of blockages.
• Blockages on technological bends of sewer fittings. As a rule, such blockages are found on all bends where a water seal is used to prevent sewer odors from penetrating into living quarters (siphons of sinks, bathtubs, toilet bowls).

Basic blockage removal techniques

1. Hot water.

The easiest and most effective cleaning method for light blockages. Bring 10 liters of water to a boil. Pour 2-3 liters of hot water into the toilet beforehand to warm the toilet bowl. Pour boiling water into the toilet strictly at a right angle to create a preliminary pressure. If there is a noticeable decrease in the level of poured water, repeat the process.

When flushing the sewer, baking soda is often used. 1 hour before pouring water, 250-300 g of soda is poured into the toilet. Then washed with hot water.

2. Removal by chemicals.

Modern industry produces a number of special chemical and biological products for cleaning toilets. The release form is different: gels, liquids, granules or powders. Of these, the most widely used are:

• "Mister Muscle"
• "Mole"
• "Domol"
• "Tiret"
• "Tofix"
• "Domestos"

The product must be poured or poured into the toilet bowl, guided by the attached instructions. Rinsing is best done with hot water. Together with cleaning the clogging, these agents additionally perform a disinfecting function, protect the system from new clogging formations, and eliminate unpleasant odors.

Work with the use of chemicals must be strictly carried out, observing the precautionary measures: work with rubber gloves and in accordance with the attached instructions.

3. Manual way.

The use of a plunger and a steel plumbing cable is the basis of a manual method for clearing blockages. The plunger is used as the simplest device. The cable is launched into the pipe, having previously disconnected the sanitary appliance. Rotating clockwise, it is pushed through until the blockage is removed. It is necessary to pull the cable without stopping rotation in the same direction.

Blockages that occur in siphons are removed after disassembling and washing the siphon.

4. mechanical way.

This method differs from manual only in that the rotation of the cable is carried out using a special device that works using electricity.

5. hydrodynamic method.

This method is not used at the household level due to the high cost of equipment.

This video shows an example of clearing a blockage in the sewer at home in the absence of specialized chemicals.

Repairing a toilet bowl due to mechanical damage or malfunctioning drain valves is a fairly simple process. After carrying out repair work, the sanitary ware can serve for a long time. And after mechanical damage to the toilet bowl and the repair performed, it is recommended to replace such a device to prevent inconvenience.

The toilet bowl is not a particularly complicated device. Back in Soviet times, when calling a plumber was an almost impossible task, craftsmen successfully repaired the toilet bowl with their own hands.

Times have changed, modern plumbing has become more convenient and more complicated, but it is quite possible to correct some of the shortcomings on your own even now. Why you need to identify the cause of the malfunction and choose the best option to eliminate it.

To cope with this task, knowledge about the structure of the toilet and an understanding of the principle of operation of the fittings in the tank will come in handy. It is these questions that we will analyze in detail in our material, which will help us to identify the problem and carry out repairs on our own. And to make it easier for you to understand the breakdowns and the nuances of their elimination, we have selected visual photos and useful video recommendations.

Even the most modern toilet bowl is not too different in design from its predecessor from the last century. He still has a bowl and a tank installed above it, in which water accumulates for flushing. The flow of water is still controlled by two mechanisms: .

In the modern version, these elements are made like valves. The operation of the intake mechanism is still regulated using a float sensor.

In this regard, the owners of hanging toilets are recommended:

• carefully observe the rules for installing the device;
• fine-tune the operation of the tank fittings;
• use high-quality mechanisms with a maximum service life;
• to provide, as far as the situation allows, the possibility of easy dismantling of the panel behind which the installation is hidden.

The principle of operation of the toilet bowl is simple and well known to almost everyone. When the float of the inlet mechanism falls below the set level, the valve that closes the water pipe opens and the tank begins to fill with water. When the water level, and with it the float, reaches its maximum level, the valve closes.

The simplest shut-off valve mechanism is a heavy flap that is lifted with a lever, rope, chain, etc. More modern and “advanced” versions of the locking mechanism are controlled using a button or pedal. A receiving part is mounted at the bottom of the reservoir tank, and the damper itself snaps into place in special clips.

After that, the tank is closed with a lid and a button is installed, which is usually attached to the lever of the locking mechanism. When you press the button, the damper rises, the water pours into the toilet, then the mechanism lowers, blocking the outlet. At this moment, the inlet valve is activated, and the reservoir tank begins to fill with water.

The following photo selection will acquaint you with the functional and structural components of the tank and shut-off and drain valves with the simplest float device:

Image Gallery

Manufacturers usually supply both the toilet and the cistern fittings with detailed instructions for installation, adjustment and repair. If these documents have been preserved, they should be carefully studied before starting work, understanding the design features and operation of all mechanisms. This will help to avoid additional breakdowns and errors.

How to repair?

Problems with the water level in the tank, including its overflow, are associated with a breakdown of the inlet valve or the need to adjust it. If the tank does not fill up after emptying or only partially fills up, there is most likely a problem with the float.

The float lying at the bottom of the empty tank is probably leaky and filled with water. It must be disconnected, pour out the water, close the hole and install it back. But even a very well sealed float may soon leak again. It is best to replace it with a new element.

If the situation with the water level in the tank is not so critical, i.e. it steadily dials and turns off, but its quantity is insufficient or, conversely, too large, you need to check the setting of the tank fittings. It's simple: you need to lower the float lower or raise it higher.

In old tanks, where the float was held by a horizontal piece of metal, this was done very simply. The wire was slightly bent in an arc up or down.

If you bend the wire to which the inlet valve float sensor is attached with an arc upwards, the float will drop and the water level in the tank will become slightly lower

In the first case, the position of the float became slightly lower, and less water was collected in the tank. And if the lever is bent down, the position of the float made it possible to increase the volume of water in the tank. In modern intake valves, the float moves up or down along the plastic holder.

In most locking devices now used for cistern equipment, it is not possible to simply bend the wire. In this case, there are a few more repair steps, but they are a little more complicated:

Image Gallery

It is unpleasant when such a “bastion” of a comfortable life as a toilet begins to behave inappropriately, regardless of the nature of the problem: whether the toilet is clogged or it leaks. But since both topics are quite significant, it is necessary to choose one, which will be discussed in the article. And here you can find information about the leakage of the toilet bowl, the reasons for this condition and options for fixing and repairing its components with your own hands so that it does not flow after flushing. A fairly large number of problems that arise are typical, the features of their repair are simple and can be implemented even by non-professionals. Also, before reading the article, I can advise you to familiarize yourself with the video:

Brief overview of possible problems

Often, problems with draining begin due to the failure of one part of the toilet to work. You can solve the problem with a do-it-yourself repair, for some even the presence of tools is not necessary, but this remark refers to minor problems in which it is necessary to replace a small plastic part or something like that.

Problems with the toilet when it leaks after flushing can be:

• Continuous supply of water from the water supply to the toilet barrel;
• Leakage of water from the tank into the toilet;
• Drainage of water due to a problem with the float valve;
• Failure of the float valve.
• Failure or gradual wear of one of the many parts.

Tank malfunctions

The most common problem that requires repair. Fortunately, almost always during the repair, everything can be done by hand. It is necessary to remove the cover and raise the floating arm. Find a rod attached to a ball that floats on the surface and which should control the flow of water from the pipe to the toilet. The rod is called a floating lever. Raise it - and if the water stops flowing, then this means that the problem is that the water is not “gaining” to a sufficient height, and the mechanical system is “receiving” signals that more water is needed. Water may not be drawn in due to mechanical damage to the plastic/rubber/ceramic parts. Therefore, the easiest way to solve a do-it-yourself repair is to check for damage to all component parts.

When looking for possible problems during do-it-yourself repairs, you should check the operation of the floating lever for accuracy. It can bend in such a way that the ball clings to the ball arm or the side of the reservoir. To check this version, you should drain the water and see for yourself whether the version is correct. If the ball really clings, then it is enough to bend the lever with your own hands so that when the water is collected, the ball freely rises up to the required level.

With prolonged use of the ball or the use of low-quality parts, water may get inside, which makes it heavier and prevents it from performing its full functionality. In this case, it must be disconnected from the lever in a counterclockwise circular motion, drained of water and screwed back. Before screwing it onto the lever, inspect for cracks or other mechanical damage. In case of their presence, the ball cannot be repaired by one's own hands and it is necessary to purchase a new one, since the repair of the old one is unsuccessful.

It may be that during do-it-yourself repairs that neither raising the lever, nor adjusting and adjusting the floating lever gave the desired effect and the water continues to run. Then there may be another option in the tank - the valve valve used to create a seal at the bottom of the tank creates a problem. In this case, the sequence of actions will look like this:

1. It is necessary to flush the water from the toilet and shut off its supply.
2. Check the damper for debris or signs of corrosion. If debris is found, everything must be cleaned out, bottlenecks can be cleared with a penknife. In case of corrosion, all traces of it must be removed. After cleaning, you should see if the reinforcing damper can close everything tightly.
3. If the water is still flowing, you should inspect the ribbon wire connected to the toilet handle. The wire must be level and allow the shutter to fall freely and close the hole. If everything is not as it should be, then the ribbon wire should be bent with your own hands to the required position so that everything closes.
4. If water is still flowing, then the float valve should be replaced.

Float valve malfunctions

Do-it-yourself toilets use plastic or metal float valves to repair them. Replacing plastic taps during do-it-yourself repairs is simpler than replacing metal ones:

1. Shut off the water supply and empty the tank from it.
2. Open the float valve.
3. Install a new plastic float valve.

Replacing a metal faucet during do-it-yourself repairs is longer due to the use of metal parts to fix it:

1. Empty the tank from water and shut off its supply.
2. Unscrew a couple of screws that hold the valve and inspect them. If the screws are old, worn, or simply damaged, they may be leaking water, and the solution to the problem is to replace them.
3. To replace the float valve itself, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut, both inside and outside the tank. When installing the float valve, make sure that the operation of all other parts is not disturbed, and make sure that nothing moves.

Filling failures and other causes of leakage

A malfunction may occur when too much water is supplied to the toilet, much more than it should receive. Fortunately, such a problem can be solved by repairing it yourself. 4 main problems are usually to blame for excessive water supply:

1. Floating lever operation.
2. Drain valve operation.
3. Operation of water ports.
4. Leakage of the hinge connecting the tank to the toilet.

The correction of the operation of the floating lever has already been mentioned above, we can only add: it should be corrected during repairs with your own hands until the water is drawn to the optimum level. After bending the lever, you should always check how water is drawn in and whether the problem has been corrected and, accordingly, whether repairs can be completed.

When checking the toilet bowl or during a do-it-yourself repair, you should pay attention to whether the drain valve closes completely while using the toilet bowl itself. You can set it up so that it works correctly with your own hands. To do this, adjust the floating lever or chain during repair. As a general rule, a toilet can be configured with three or four types of flush valve operation, so you should try different settings when repairing, until the valve works as it should, completely closing the toilet opening after use. This is due to the fact that universal drain systems are developed for various models, and for each toilet it is adjusted separately. But over time, the valves can disperse a little and need to be re-adjusted into place.

Pay attention to the toilet water ports on the bottom of the toilet rim. Rust and corrosive processes negatively affect their ability to pass or retain water. You can check their condition using a mirror. If you see that they are damaged, then they should be replaced or cleaned so that the toilet ports can work properly. Due to the design features of various products, there is no universal recipe for replacement, but you can try to clean out the rust in the hope that removing it is enough for the ports to start working properly. For cleaning, use a brush and appropriate products, and to reach the necessary places, you can use the wiring wrapped around the brush.

How to install a toilet with your own hands

A broken toilet can bring a lot of trouble to users, ranging from annoying water noise to flooding. How to fix the toilet with your own hands? To carry out repairs, you need to know the structure of plumbing equipment and have a small set of tools. In some situations, it may be necessary to replace the constituent structural elements.

Toilet design

To answer the question of how to repair a toilet bowl, you need to understand the design of the plumbing product. The toilet consists of:

• from a toilet bowl connected to a sewer pipe with a rubber cuff;

• from the drain tank, in which there is a special fitting responsible for draining and filling the container. Water is supplied to the tank with a hose.

The fittings installed in the tank can be:

The main components of the fittings are:

• a trigger connected by a rod to the drain button;
• inlet valve equipped with a float and a locking mechanism;
• rubber gaskets to achieve complete tightness of the system.

Based on the design of the sanitary ware, it can be concluded that toilet malfunctions can be associated with a bowl or cistern.

The main malfunctions of the toilet bowl

Do-it-yourself toilet repair can be done if:

• a small crack has formed on the bowl;
• the cuff connecting the device to the sewer has worn out;
• the toilet is clogged.

A crack in the toilet bowl can be formed as a result of:

• mechanical impact on the toilet bowl;
• flushing hot liquid down the toilet.

If a crack has formed in the upper part of the bowl or in the place of its attachment, then the malfunction can be eliminated. If there is a crack in the lower part, a complete replacement of the plumbing product will be required.

To fix the crack you will need:

• drill with a small drill;
• sandpaper;
• Sander;
• any solvent;
• epoxy resin or other similar adhesive.

Repair is carried out in the following order:

1. the ends of the crack are carefully drilled to prevent further divergence. Drilling the bowl must be extremely careful to prevent damage. If the toilet cracked during the work, then it will need to be replaced;
2. along the entire length, the crack is cleaned;
3. the surface is degreased;
4. the prepared surface is filled with resin and left to dry completely;
5. the resulting seam is polished.

Cracks formed on the drain tank are repaired in a similar way. Repair of the tank lid is most often not carried out, since the low cost of products allows a complete replacement of the cracked surface.

Cuff replacement

If a puddle forms under the toilet bowl, then the reason lies in the wear of the rubber cuff, which is a seal between the toilet drain and the sewer pipe.

The cuff is replaced as follows:

1. dismantling of the old gasket. To do this, you can use an ordinary knife;
2. the surfaces of the pipe and the sewer inlet are cleaned of contaminants;
3. all surfaces are treated with sealant for a better fit of the new gasket;
4. a new cuff is inserted into the sewer hole and then put on the toilet drain. For strength, the joints can be additionally treated with silicone sealant.

The described method is suitable for toilet bowls with oblique and horizontal outlet. If the toilet is leaking with a release to the floor, then to replace the cuff, a preliminary dismantling of the plumbing is required.

Removing blockages

The reason for the slow draining of water from the toilet bowl is.

To help you deal with the problem:

1. various chemicals, for example, Tiret turbo;
2. plunger;

The main malfunctions of the drain tank

Now let's look at how to identify the problem and what to do if the toilet cistern is broken. Typical faults:

• water enters the tank constantly;
• water is continuously drained into the toilet bowl;
• the button responsible for flushing the water does not work;
• leaking at the bottom of the tank.

water leak

The reasons for the continuous flow of water into the tank and toilet can be:

• drain valve malfunction;
• check valve failure.

To fix these problems, you need to purchase a toilet repair kit or replace the cistern fittings. If a drain valve malfunction is detected, the following actions must be taken:

1. First of all, you need to block the flow of water into the tank. Most often, a separate faucet is installed on the toilet, which allows you to turn off the water exclusively on the sanitary ware. If there is no such tap, then you will have to turn off the water throughout the apartment;

1. remove water from the container. The bulk of the water is removed by pressing a button. The rest needs to be soaked with a rag;
2. detach the tank from the toilet. To fix the tank, bolts located at the bottom of the tank are used;

1. disconnect the drain. To do this, unscrew the nut located under the gasket and loosen the clamp connecting the drain and fill valves;

1. in some cases the valve can be repaired. To do this, it is necessary to replace all gaskets and clean the device from dirt. However, repair does not always help. With a low cost of the device, repairs are resorted to only in exceptional cases;
2. clean the installation site of the device from dirt and rust. For this purpose, you can use any chemical means that can cope with the problem;
3. install the new valve in the reverse order;

At the junction of the device and the container, the installation of an o-ring is required, both from the inside and outside of the tank.

1. fix the tank and connect the water supply.

If during the inspection a problem is found with the shut-off valve, then it is replaced in the same way. You can watch the video for details on replacing the tank fittings.

Button not working

Repair of the toilet button consists in replacing the rod connecting the button with the flush mechanism. Traction can be:

• in the form of a wire;

• in the form of a plastic tube.

You can make a replacement as follows:

1. removing the toilet lid. To carry out the procedure, you need to carefully unscrew the button;

1. button removal. To disconnect the button from the drain valve, it is necessary to remove the rod holding the device;
2. disconnecting the rod from the button;
3. installation of new traction;
4. drain tank assembly.

In most cases, this procedure is not performed, since it is quite difficult to purchase button elements separately. Most often, the button is replaced entirely.

Leak at the bottom of the tank

A leak at the bottom of the tank can form due to the following problems:

• shift or wear of the gasket installed between the tank and the toilet bowl. To fix the problem, you need to remove the tank and install a new rubber gasket;

• wear of the gaskets installed on the connecting bolts.

To fix a leak at the location of the fixing bolts, you must:

1. turn off the water supply to the plumbing device;
2. drain water from the container;
3. disconnect from the toilet;
4. replace the sealing rings located inside the tank;
5. install the container in its original place;
6. connect water supply.

Thus, based on the instructions presented, you can eliminate all the malfunctions of the toilet bowl yourself.

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Leaky toilet repair

Toilet device

If the toilet is leaking in the house, it causes a lot of inconvenience. Plus, utility bills are skyrocketing. Repair toilet, which for one reason or another leaks, you can do it yourself. The only exceptions are models equipped with additional functions with electronic control.

Any toilet bowl consists of the following elements: a toilet bowl and a tank with a built-in drain mechanism. The second one breaks down the most. To properly troubleshoot, you must first understand how such a system works.

In a standard drain tank, 2 devices are installed at once - storage and drain.

The storage mechanism is a part of the system that ensures the accumulation of the amount of water in the tank necessary for draining. It consists of a shut-off valve and a float. When the tank is empty, the float sinks to the bottom and the levers open the valve. As the reservoir fills, the float rises and the valve closes. When the float is at the top, the valve closes completely.

The drain mechanism is the mechanism directly responsible for draining the water. There are a lot of systems that bring it into action, but they all operate on the same principle. The drain hole of the tank is hermetically sealed with a siphon. In many toilets, it looks like a plunger without a handle. With the device responsible for draining the water, the siphon is connected by a system of levers. In many modern models, this is a button - it looks more aesthetically pleasing.

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Troubleshooting

To understand which toilet system is faulty, you need to lift the tank lid and drain the water several times. A simple mechanism, most likely, will allow "by eye" to determine the breakdown. If the drain tank is built into the wall, do not rush to dismantle it. First, simply remove the drain button and visually determine the cause of the breakdown.

But there are some problems in the operation of the drain tank, the causes of which are not obvious. In the work on repairing the toilet, you will need the following tools and materials:

• locknuts;
• pliers,
• wrenches (adjustable wrench);
• copper wire;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• pliers;
• spirit level;
• plumbing cable;
• bit;
• plunger;
• gloves;
• chemicals for pipes;
• cement mortar;
• a piece of dense foam;
• replacement pads.

So, how to fix the toilet when one of the following problems occurs.

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No water enters the tank

The cause of the malfunction is both in the mechanism of the tank, and in obstruction or damage to the supply pipes. To determine what happened, you need to do the following:

1. Open the tank lid and make sure that the adjustment of the mechanism has not been disturbed - the float has lowered, and the inlet valve has opened behind it. If this does not happen, shake the levers - perhaps the mechanism is just stuck.
2. Next, turn off the water supply and disconnect the flexible water supply hose. Slightly open the valve, holding the hose over the tank. Make sure that the plumbing is working, then you need to clean the hole through which water enters the tank with a thin object. It is more convenient to do this with a Phillips screwdriver of a suitable diameter.
3. Then briefly turn on the water to wash away the remaining sand and lime. If the valve becomes clogged with debris during flushing, you need to clean it again. Water contains sand, dissolved mineral salts, scale. Over time, the bottleneck - the valve nozzle - overgrows. And so it needs to be cleaned. A coarse filter installed after the valve will not get rid of salts from water, but it will retain all large suspensions and sand.
4. If, nevertheless, water does not flow, then the reason is in a flexible hose or pipes. Damaged areas need to be replaced. If, when installing the toilet, you did not use a flexible hose, but connected it directly to a metal pipe, you can clean the inlet from the side of the tank without disconnecting the pipe.
5. Reconnect the hose and open the water. If nothing happened, replace the float valve.

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The tank is flowing, water is constantly pouring

1. The reason is that the pear (exhaust valve) does not completely shut off the water, debris got under it. The solution is to clean the pear seat of deposits and slag.
2. The reason is that the pear has lost its elasticity and does not take the form of a saddle, tightly overlapping it. Solution - hang any load on the pear - a couple of locknuts, a coupling, a lead sinker. The main thing is that the center of gravity coincides with the pear stem. To remove the pear from the stem, hold the stem with pliers and unscrew the thread. Or replace the pear with a similar one. Choose more elastic.
3. The reason is that the tank overflows, water goes through the overflow. The float lever is not adjusted or the float itself takes on water and sinks. Solution - bend the float lever so that the water overlaps a few cm before the overflow level.

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Water does not drain from the toilet, the level rises when flushing

The reason is sewer blockage. Something hard or large has got into the toilet and cannot pass into its outlet. First, find out the cause of the blockage. Repair will be reduced to removing the cork from the toilet. There are solutions for every type of blockage.

If glass fragments, construction debris, solid food waste get into the toilet - in this case, the water slowly but leaves. Flush several times to clear the water in the toilet. Then put on gloves and take out the trash carefully and slowly so as not to cut yourself. Flushing the last few items down the riser is a bad idea. There is a high risk of organizing a blockage in the riser below.

Cat litter, sand and other soft inorganic substances - a plumbing cable is required.
Pierce the blockage with it to remove it. Flush the residue with water from a hose or simply by flushing water from the tank over and over again and rotating the cable in the toilet. In this case, you will have to flush the blockage into the riser: it is difficult to remove it from the toilet.

Soft food waste, paper and other organics - there are many options. You can also use a plumbing cable. Chemicals intended for cleaning (for example, “Mole”) or other acids and alkalis will destroy organic matter in a few hours.
It is necessary to fill them in so that they are in contact with the cork.

Often you can use an ordinary plunger. If it is not available, you can use a large plastic bottle with a cut off bottom in the same way.