The type and composition of soils directly affect the quality and quantity of the harvest, the decorativeness of plants, and their health. To make the soil loose and fertile, you need to fertilize it annually and mulch the beds throughout the growing season. But first you need to determine what the soil composition is in the garden. This will help you accurately select the type of nutrient mixtures, mulch, and then turn heavy soil into soft one.
The need to determine the type and composition of soils
Soil fertility is the key to good growth and good health of plants, from which in the future it will be possible to harvest a good harvest or, in the case of decorative ones, to obtain lush flowering and dense greenery. Fertilizers acting as leavening agents will help enrich the soil and make it air- and water-permeable. To choose the right type of the latter, you need to determine the type of soil and its composition. There are two ways to solve the problem:
- Take some soil to the agricultural laboratory.
- Study the mechanical composition yourself.
The first method gives an error-free result, but is not available everywhere and is expensive. The second will not answer questions about the deficiency or excess of macro- and micronutrients, but it will allow you to determine the structure of the soil. The earth is moistened with water and a ball is formed from it. If the figure crumbles, the soil is light; if it is possible to form something like a cord, even “twist it into a ring,” it is heavy.
How and how to improve the looseness and fertility of heavy soil
To ensure an air- and water-permeable soil structure, organic matter is used. It is more accessible not only in price: you can prepare it yourself, compost manure if you have animals, sow green fertilizers, make mulch from mowed grass.
Sand
Natural leavening agent. To improve the soil structure, coarse river sand is added at the rate of 20 kg per 1 m2 of loam. It is distributed in an even layer over the surface of the beds, and then dug up to the depth of the spade bayonet, which is 20-25 cm. If the soil is alkaline, you can add peat. The latter acidifies the soil - use it with caution.
For your information!
If the soil is infertile, additional humus is added, since a high sand content will make the soil even poorer.
Green manure
Green fertilizer is an important component in improving and maintaining the looseness and fertility of the soil. Proponents of organic farming provide these indicators through sowing. The latter are legumes (lupine, vetch, peas, alfalfa). On their powerful roots there are nodule bacteria that concentrate nitrogen, capturing and binding it from the air. Thanks to the power of the root system, the soil is not only enriched with important macronutrients, but also becomes loose and well aerated.
Manure
Organic matter in the form of the results of the vital activity of farm animals is the source of all macroelements necessary for plant development: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. Manure restores fertility. In the garden, they mainly use cow's milk, since it is less aggressive compared to pork, in which the concentration of nitrogen is even higher. It is best to apply rotted manure at the rate of 2 kg/m2. This can be done in the fall before digging, as well as before spring sowing.
For your information!
Fresh manure contains a high concentration of nitrogen - it can burn the plantings. Only experienced farmers use it when preparing soil for the next season (5 months before field work).
Grass clippings for mulching
A type of slow-release fertilizer. On heavy soils it is used from early summer to late autumn: when used in spring, the beds will slowly warm up and will not have time to dry out before sowing. The goals that a gardener can achieve with this method.
We improve heavy soils.
Loosening and aeration of heavy soils has a beneficial effect on the harvest, so clay soils need our help and thanks to this very help we will turn it into fertile soil.
In general, heavy soils are soils that have a high clay content, feel a little greasy to the touch, and produce a shiny surface when you run your finger over it. You can form various figures from it and they will not fall apart. Congratulations, you have clay soil. Although it is rich in nutrients, it, unfortunately, cannot boast of moisture and breathability. In rainy weather, it is better not to walk on it, much less process it, since when wet it is sticky and heavy and also forms dense clumps. And, on the contrary, in a dry form it is simply a nightmare - it can be hard as a stone and with the appearance of cracks.
But it doesn’t matter, the main thing is the land and it can be improved. Due to poor air permeability, the biological activity of these soils is very low. Microorganisms in this soil not only do not have enough air, but sometimes they also lack heat. There are two ways to improve this whole picture:
Mechanically - by loosening and adding sand. This gives the soil more air and thus it will warm up better.
Organically - by introducing organic substances, which also improves breathability and enriches with nutrients.
The first way is good in the fall - when digging and loosening the soil (yes, I know how hard it is), add additives such as mature beam, compost, sand or synthetic substances (they can be purchased in specialized stores). It is also recommended to sow green fertilizers. (see article Green manure) with deep roots, such as clover, lupins or a mixture of legumes and grasses. Leave green fertilizers over the winter so they freeze, and dig it all up in the spring. This will give us not only aeration of the soil but also fill it with organic matter.
Nothing is better suited for improving heavy soils than loose compost (see article compost), which is prepared from garden waste, and not mature compost can be used as mulch (see article preparing mulch). Spread the mature compost over the surface and add it to the soil by digging. This will give us loosening, aeration and fertilizer for the soil.
So, the best time to improve the soil is in the fall. Put in order the beds and flower beds where we will improve the soil. We remove all weeds, loosen the soil with a pitchfork at least 20 cm, then scatter or distribute compost 10 cm thick on the surface and sprinkle rock flour on top in a thin layer. Then cover it with a thick layer of leaf mulch for the winter. Next year we plant potatoes in these places, they will loosen the soil, and as soon as we harvest, we plant green fertilizer.
Or you can make an alternative way to improve the soil:
Autumn application of sand, lava granules or synthetic flake mixtures improves breathability. Lupines used as green fertilizer will provide the soil with deep loosening and enrich it. In the meantime, while your soil is preparing and has not yet become fertile enough, plant vegetables in high beds.
Well, since I mentioned additives to heavy soils, let’s briefly explain what’s what:
Leaf compost is an organic amendment; slightly sour; when using, add rock flour, carbonated lime, horn flour; aerates the soil.
Compost is an organomineral additive; fertilizes the soil, making it looser and more crumbly; it needs to be spread out in a layer of 1-5 cm, applied superficially to the soil; suitable for mulching.
Mature beam – organic additive; decayed cow or horse manure; Straw and flour from rocks should be added to fresh manure, left for a year and only then used.
Peat is an organic additive; slow growing natural product; loosens and oxidizes the soil; To protect the environment, it is better not to use this additive.
Chaff or pods are an organic additive; breakdown product of spelled, rice or oats; quickly decomposes in soil; loosens and aerates; contains few nutrients; apply to the soil.
Lava granules are a mineral supplement; crushed volcanic rock; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes, loosens; apply to the soil or mulch.
Rock flour is a mineral supplement; rock ground to a powdery state; rich in nutrients and microelements; fertilizes; Apply a thin layer.
Coarse sand – mineral additive; improves water permeability; it is always necessary to add additional organic matter; Do not use fine sand as it compacts the soil.
Lime is a mineral additive; fertilizer that facilitates the supply of nutrients to plants; increases the acid balance of the soil, neutralizes acidic soils and activates microflora.
I hope this information will be more than enough to get you started. Therefore, you can safely begin hostilities. The main thing to remember is that it is best to mulch the soil in the spring and loosen it in the fall. And in your gardens, heavy soils will be light and fertile. Good luck to you.
The harvest depends on many factors: weather conditions, frequency of watering, plant health and much more. But the most important thing is always soil fertility.
It is important that the soil contains all the necessary elements for the proper development of plants, that it is moderately moist and loose enough so that the root system of the plantings can develop comfortably.
That is why it is extremely important to properly prepare the soil for subsequent planting, so that all the work is not in vain and the harvest is rich. We talk about what needs to be done to make the soil fertile.
What needs to be done for soil fertility
Here we will talk about what work needs to be done to prepare the soil for planting, and what substances it needs to be saturated for the proper development of plantings.
Carefully loosen the soil
To dig or not? This issue is still controversial. After all, digging effectively loosens the soil, making it more fertile and interfering with the life bubbling in it. When digging and turning over layers of soil, microorganisms that love oxygen get into layers that are poor in air, and vice versa. In addition, in this case, microorganisms suffer more from the cold, so that in the spring quite a long time passes until all this life, so necessary for soil fertility, is completely restored. If the soil is not very crumbly, caring for the soil can be more gentle - digging without turning the soil, but still dig with turning once every 3-4 years to prevent excessive compaction of the soil.
Digging: where to start?
Digging is recommended when you are creating new beds or areas for a lawn and in areas that are heavily overgrown with weeds, as well as annually on clay soils that are prone to compaction.
However, if you gradually improve such soil with sand and compost, over time digging can be done every two years.
What to do:
- First, remove large plant debris with a hoe and rake and send the debris to the.
- Then, starting at the edge of the bed, dig as deep as you can by stepping on the shovel with your foot.
- After the first digs, you can pile the soil at the opposite end of the bed so that you can then fill the last digs with it, or distribute it evenly over the entire area.
- Turn over the soil layer when digging
- Make a second dig and transfer the excavated soil into the hole from the first dig. In this case, the layer must be turned over so that its lower side is on top.
In this way, fill the holes from previous digs with soil from subsequent digs. At the same time, carefully remove stones and especially weed roots.
The dug up layers should be left lying until spring processing. Severe frost will pre-shred them.
Gentle loosening with a fork
With gentle soil care, you need to completely avoid turning over layers of soil. Loosening is carried out by sticking digging forks into the soil every 10 cm and shaking them. Here you also need to help yourself with your foot or your whole body so that the forks stick as deep as possible. As with digging, it is better to work in rows.
This kind of work is easier than digging: it is gentle not only on the soil, but also on your back, although it takes a little more time.
Gentle loosening: second stage
With sufficiently loose, sandy and/or humus-rich soil, the second stage goes quickly: you simply go over the area with a grubber or cultivator again and carefully remove all weed roots.
A particularly practical tool for the second stage is a hoe with one, very strong, rounded tooth. Run the tine along one furrow first, holding the tool at an angle to the edge of the bed, and then again at the same angle along the next furrow.
If the soil is very loose, you may not even need to loosen it with a fork first, but use only a hoe.
Mulching: winter soil protection 
Since without turning over the layers there are no clods of earth that would have to be crushed by frost in winter, you can immediately take advantage of the benefits.
What you need to do for this:
- You can lightly dig in the compost first, then cover the bed with a layer of leaves or other material.
- In this case, the soil does not freeze as much, is less clogged by autumn and winter rains, and life in the soil awakens faster in the spring.
- Do not use mulching materials that are too dense, as this may attract ordinary mice.
- If there were a lot of slugs, it is better to remove the mulch altogether.
Even if your plot is in an extremely unfavorable location, you can still get an excellent harvest every year. And not alone!
Doesn't that sound like a dream? There is no need to loosen or dig the soil, no manure or compost. But each hundred square meters produces a couple of tons of potatoes, cabbage, 5 carrot crops, and berry crops become super-fertile.
How to get such a yield without violating the soil? Two simple tips.
1. choose the most suitable varieties for the site
2. implement a natural garden system.
Narrow beds
Mark the dimensions of the stationary beds, about 80 cm wide, between which leave a passage of about 1 m. In June, trample down the grass that has grown in this place, put a thick layer of plant organic matter on top, and pour a layer of earth 3-5 cm high on top of it. Until the end of summer, the “bed” rots and does not let out weeds – a haven for worms!
In August, sow mustard and radish - cold-resistant green manures, and in the spring, peas, beans and beans to additionally fertilize the land and start the fruiting season.
Know weed
The special beauty of these beds is that all you need for maintenance is a flat cutter. Weeds do not survive or are very invisible in a place where something from the number of dense crops, thick green manure or mulch is constantly growing!
crops
If you need to protect crops from morning dew, install film screens over the beds. Heat rays will be sent to the garden bed, there will be no dew, and the plants will remain healthy.
Don't waste your energy preparing mulch
If you cut the dense greenery of cold-resistant green manure before frost, you will get a decent layer of mulch. In spring it becomes about 3 times thinner, because... melted and compacted. Make furrows in the layer and plant and sow plants. The new green mass will cover the entire soil.
There is also another way to get good mulch that will protect you from cold and wind - uncut green manure freezes over the winter and becomes brittle with straw.
Mulch – plant cleanliness
You can grow watermelons or potatoes in such beds. The algorithm is simple - tubers are laid out on the finished bed, covered with a layer of loose organic matter, another layer of organic matter is placed on top of the sprouts that have appeared.
New tubers remain clean and undamaged. All kinds of beetles that love to feast on the fruits of your garden are not found in mulch.
Mulching has its own rules. Cover the soil earlier in the fall so that it does not freeze longer. In spring, the coarse mulch is removed to
While heatedly discussing ways to increase the productivity of certain garden crops, many summer residents lose sight of the fact that all these issues have the same root. And until you deal with it, nothing worthwhile will grow in the garden beds.
Don't push for pity
There is a saying: “A stupid person grows weeds, a smart person grows vegetables, and a wise person grows soil.” These words contain the whole meaning of working in the garden! What do you, dear readers, think? Do you agree with this saying?
And what type of people do you consider yourself to be: stubborn conservatives or curious innovators?
Although, I understand, no one wants to be stupid, probably everyone considers themselves wise. Is this so? How often do I read letters that are filled with complaints about the soil: some complain that their soil is sand, others cry because of clay, and still others generally make “discoveries” such as the fact that, for example, they have loamy black soil. What exactly is this, does anyone know? And all such messages end the same way - nothing grows in the garden, and if it does, it’s very bad.
But, fortunately, there are other messages where people tell how they turned poor land into fertile one. And there are more and more such lucky ones, which is very pleasing. Thanks to them! They are real hard workers. And since we’re talking about soil, how can we not remember about our second bread.
Potatoes are the best indicator of what is going on in the garden. He needs good, loose soil; without it you won’t get normal harvests.
And the one who managed to fulfill this main condition and make friends with potatoes will no longer be able to confuse the rest of the garden crops - which of them will be weird on the fertile land? For example, varietal large-fruited garlic generally grows in me like on a conveyor belt (photo 1). Loose soil is also good for carrots and other root vegetables.
Again, experience with potatoes teaches you to be careful and thoughtful about watering. With them, our second bread yields twice as much. Anyone who underestimates this loses a lot. And any fertilizers and all kinds of growth stimulants are only the third condition for a good harvest.
I don’t think anyone needs to explain why tubers need loose soil. But maybe someone doesn't know? Then, in short: if the soil is light, then the growing tuber effortlessly pushes it apart, and nothing interferes with its uniform growth. So it turns out smooth, depending on the variety, round or oblong, as the breeder “ordered” it. And heavy soil is more difficult to move apart, so the potatoes there are smaller in size and more bizarre in shape.
Voids and dimensions
I have experienced all this wisdom myself. When I bought a small house in the village with a plot of 20 acres, I immediately realized that the former owners did not garden, because there was no soil there, but solid clay. In 2011, I planted 12 varieties of potatoes. Only one survived and gave an excellent harvest - Vineta (originally from Germany). Apparently, there is some kind of indestructible inner strength in him. I still haven’t parted with it: it produces crops in any weather and on any soil, and is resistant to late blight.
That year his tubers were also huge, but not round, as they should be, but lumpy, like cobblestones. This is the result of uncultivated soil. I don’t have photographs from that time, but today Vineta’s tubers are the same as in photo 2. I write so much about him because I am very grateful to him. If it hadn’t yielded a harvest then, I might have given up growing potatoes altogether. Therefore, I advise: if you are new to cultivating this crop, start with Vineta. Well, now I’ll tell you in detail how I improved my soil. By the way, a question: do you know the criteria for assessing its quality? After all, the words “good” or “loose” by themselves mean little.
So, loose soil is when you can stick your hand into it up to the wrist without effort(i.e. approximately to a depth of 15-20 cm). So that. So think about what kind of land you have.
To begin with, I marked out the ridges a meter wide, and my husband fenced them off with boards. It’s already easier: all work to improve fertility now needs to be carried out only in stationary boxes. I made passages between them of 50 cm each. Looking ahead, I will say that later, for the sake of convenience, I changed these dimensions: I made the ridges a little less than 1.5 m wide, and the passages – 70 cm each.
I plant potatoes in boxes in two rows. Believe me, the sparser the holes are placed, the more opportunities the plants will have for normal growth. And only then will they please you, first with strong, powerful stems, and then with large, numerous tubers (if, of course, your variety has not yet degenerated).
Although I don’t strive for records, the past season was generous with achievements. For example, one tuber of the Unica variety grew weighing a little more than a kilogram (photo 3). Someone reading this will say: “That’s all!” I won’t argue, the weight is not prohibitive, but it’s not 150-200 g. After all, there are gardeners who don’t like very large potatoes (though I haven’t personally met such people, but only saw their letters) for fear that there are “giants” inside there may be voids. Well, then they can save time and not read about what I write here - this information is not for them. Although the large tuber potato varieties that I currently grow do not have any voids. And large potatoes just make my soul happy. Imagine, one bush of the same Unica produces 4-5 kilos of tubers, Sonny - about the same, but Galaxy is a little more generous: last year it gave out six kilos (photo 4)!
Yes, it’s a little difficult for me to harvest such a harvest: you dig and dig and wonder when it will end. And the number of varieties, like a snowball, grows and grows, although every year I reject 10. As a result, I don’t even know exactly how many of them I have in use now (last fall I was sent 21 varieties).
Soil improvement experiments
Got distracted again. Let's return to the ground. The first two years I did this: I brought peat, manure, sawdust by car and distributed it all over the ridges, mixing it with clay. The result was ambiguous: the soil did become loose, but by the next season there were no noticeable traces of sawdust and peat. Some monkey work! Although by that time the ground could no longer be called clay, but loam, I realized that this path was a dead end. And the work was terribly hard.
My next experiment was like this. I dug holes the size of a 10-liter bucket in the beds, transferred the excavated soil to another place (for example, to beds made for watermelons and pumpkins), placed fertilizers on the bottom, mixing them with the soil, and on top - a tuber with long etiolated (sprouted in darkness) with sprouts (photo 5), and filled the remaining space with well-decomposed black peat. If desired, it can be replaced with loose compost or soil mixed with sawdust, or finely chopped hay.
This work was also not easy: during the season it was possible to prepare only 13-14 beds in this way. Potatoes grew wonderfully in such pits, the yield was high. But! When I dug up the crop, the peat was still mixed with loam, because in the presence of loose soil, the tubers not only grow to the sides, but also burrow into the depths. And I was forced to improve the technique.
It's very simple, remember. So, first we fence off the place where the bed should be with boards, take out the turf and hammer many small wooden logs into the bottom of the bed. Next, fill the box with loose substrate.
That's all! In the spring, all that remains is to add a little sawdust treated with urea and a little fertilizer for potatoes before planting.
I will add that I do not hill up the plantings, but only mulch them with a 3 cm thick layer of mowed grass (but only after the sprouts have sprouted). Over the summer I add this mulch a couple of times more, and when I dig up the crop, the soil underneath remains loose. Actually, I don’t even dig, I just pull out the tubers with my hands. I take a shovel when the potatoes are deep.